ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

“Technology is like an ocean and an engineer is like a pearl diver in search of

treasure like treasure beneath the sea, there is no end to technical studies but an
engineer tries to get an much as possible.”
“Can words express the heart felt feeling and gratitude but words are too weak to
express the expression of ones feelings. As the intensity in our sentiments deepens,
we find no words and fail to express them. Therefore, no words are better than-----
Thanks“
With great pleasure and sense of gratitude I express my sincere thanks to the
management of “MALWA INDUSTRIES LTD. MACHIWARA for giving me an
opportunity to do summer training in their concern and for the facilities provided to
me during training. Doing this project has been an enrich learning experience for me.
We would like to thanks Mr. Jagir Singh, Vice President - Operations & Mr. K.S.
Verma – Sr. Vice President, H.R. & Administration from the core of my heart for
giving me an opportunity to interact with him, which has been a very good experience
for me. I would also like to thanks my project guide Mr. Deepak Kundra - H.O.D.
Processing Deptt who extended all his help, support, cooperation & complete
flexibility in doing my project and all other officer who always extended their timely
guidance and co-operation during my training period and all members & workers of
the concern for providing me highly co-operative environment and for providing me
valuable information which will help me in future to shape my carrier.
I am also thankful to Dr. S. Dhamija (Training Officer) and classmates Mr. Surender
(Training Coordinator) and Mr. Hansraj (Training Coordinator) for their valuable
efforts and contribution. Last but not least to mention in this column are my parents
whose blessings and well wishes always give me enthusiasm and driving force to
complete the task and is able to submit this report, I wish to pay deep respect to my
parents
Bunty Beakta
Vijay kumar
 As founder of Malwa Group,
I feel a strong sense of pride
and honour to head such an exceptional organization.
Exceptional in every regard, be it dedication to work, a sense
of commitment to the customer or maintaining quality
standards. Most of all, in winning over customers confidence
which to us is the prime reason for our success day after day,
year after year.
Achievement brings with it a sense of pride which further Lala Vidya Sagar Oswal

encourages the growth of the people, the company and the

product line. As we look back over the years, we have come a
long way from whence we began. The road to success has not
always been easy to tread but each hurdle overcome gave us
strength to go one more step a head. We took each challenge as
a part of the bigger process which prepared us for greater
things in time to come.
The Malwa Group, a vision of the future that is continually
expanding itself by the basic qualities, necessary to growth and
holds a promise of even greater things to come.
I thank every one at the Malwa Group for their unwavering
faith and conviction which had made it possible for the vision
to come true. Its my distinct privilege to share it with you.
 Introduction about the Company

Karam Yogi Lala Vidya Sagar Oswal: The great warrior, the centurion man Lala
Vidya Sagar Oswal was born at village Jodhan, Ludhiana in 1908. Lalaji had a long
stressful journey from a simple layman to a successful business Tycoon. He started
his life as a simple employee in a shop. With his hard work, patience and intelligence
he reached to the highest level of being considered as a doyen of Industrial revolution
in hosiery in Ludhiana and was instrumental in bringing Ludhiana on the Industrial
map of the world, known as Manchester of India.

Malwa Group:

The foundation of Malwa Group (formerly called the VSO Group) was laid by Late
Lala Vidya Sagar Oswal - a visionary known as much for his perspicacity and sharp
business acumen as for his philanthropic pursuits. Driven by a strong desire to achieve
what few in his day & time could have dreamt of, he sowed the seeds of the textile
powerhouse that Malwa has come to be today, built around the cornerstones of
Dedication to Work, Excellence in Product quality & Work Practices, Commitment to
its Customers and Daring to think beyond the ordinary. Today, after having been in
existence for seven decades, Malwa Group has become an over 10,000-member
strong Institution.

The Group is fully integrated in Textiles with interests in Ginning, Spinning,

Weaving, Processing and Garmenting, and is one of the biggest Textile
Conglomerates in the Country. The significant business diversification and the major
international forays towards expansion are proof of the growing international presence
of the Malwa Group.

Further, in line with the vision of its founder, Malwa Group also runs India's second
largest charitable Cancer Hospital.

MALWA INDUSTRIES LIMITED (MIL) - Denim arm of the Malwa Group.

In 1997, Mr. Rishi Oswal, the scion of the Oswal family and the Managing Director
of Malwa Industries Limited started the denim manufacturing facility in response to
the increased market demand for Jeans in the 1990's. Commercial operations started
in FY97-98 and since then the company has been growing at a fast pace. Malwa's
premier denim manufacturing plant is located at Ludhiana in the Punjab region, the
heart of the Indian cotton producing belt. Its operations span India (where it is
headquartered), Jordan & Italy. Through these operations, its products are exported to
over 40countries worldwide where these are sold under some of the biggest denim
brands & designer labels that come to mind. With Quality certifications such as the
ISO9001, ISO14001, Oekotex & Woolmark, the name Malwa has, today, become
synonymous with superlative quality & product excellence. In recognition of its
excellent track record in Exports, it has been honoured with Export Performance
Awards by the Govt. of India in recent years.

Equipped with the latest machines imported from Switzerland , Germany , Belgium ,
Italy , Japan & the US , the facility boasts of some of the best equipment the industry
has to offer. With this state-of-the-art technology, MIL achieves a current production
capacity of 20 million meters of denim fabrics & 4.50 million pairs of Jeans annually.

The Jeans manufacturing facility at Jordan (Third Dimension Apparel LLC or more
popularly Petra) boasts of an annual capacity of 4.0million pieces. It has the most
advanced CAD system which helps in optimizing fabric consumption that minimizes
cost, making the product affordable.

The Italian venture (Emmetre) is a fully automated state-of-the-art facility for

Garment Dyeing & Finishing. It caters to the top end of the market and has a client
base comprising of leading designer labels & fashion brands. The facility brings to
Malwa's fold, prized knowledge of emerging fashion trends in denim making MIL a
trendsetter by virtue of this knowledge. This facility also adds 2.5million pieces
annually in capacities to Malwa's denim stable.

Malwa today stands tall & proud of its stature as one amongst a handful of denim
suppliers, globally, to possess capabilities in offering Total Solutions in Denims and
that too from a single point interface.

Mohan Dai Oswal Charitable Cancer

Hospital
As part of its philanthropic activities, Malwa
also runs a fully equipped charitable Cancer
Hospital at Ludhiana (Mohan Dai Oswal
Charitable Cancer Hospital), which is the
country's second largest Cancer Research &
Care Hospital.

Mohan Dai Oswal Cancer Institution is doing a great service to the patients suffering
from dreaded disease of cancer. Besides this it has acquired the status of the
postgraduate institute for having been affiliated by the Diplomat National Board in
various specialties for the post graduate courses.

Mohan Dai Oswal Cancer Treatment & Research Foundation was established in 1984
as a charitable institution to extend comprehensive quality treatment for cancer to the
masses at an affordable price. It is a 300 bedded hospital located on the Amritsar -
New Delhi G.T. Road near Sherpur bye pass, Ludhiana. It is housed in a multistoried
building. Patient care area is approx. 16,000 sq. Yards spread over 4 floors. In
addition there is a mechanical laundry, a workshop, shopping areas, residential
accommodation for medical, nursing & paramedical staff and a sarai for poor patients
(Free of cost stay).

VSO Group has opened a Institute of Information Technology a Charitable (No

Fee) Institution in the Memory of Lala Vidya Sagar Oswal . Opp. Fire Brigade,
G.T. Road, Miller Ganj, Ludhiana.
 Brief Profile of Malwa Group
MALWA GROUP is the brain-child of Lala Vidya Sagar Oswal. Today, after having
been in existence for more than 60 years, Malwa Group has become an over 7000-
member strong Institution.
The Group is fully integrated in Textiles with interests in Ginning, Spinning,
Weaving, Processing and Garmenting, and thereby being one of the biggest Textile
Conglomerates in the Country.
Further, in line with the Vision of its founder, Malwa Group also runs India’s second
largest charitable Cancer Hospital.
Malwa Cotton Spinning Mills Ltd., the flagship Company of the Group was set up
in 1976. Today, MCSML has a total spinning capacity of 1.5 lac ring spindles and
produces about 77 tonnes of yarns per day. The Company also started manufacturing
Sewing Threads and it has already garnered sizeable market share.
Another Group Company, Oswal Knit (I) Ltd., the Garment Company is the sole-
licensee in India for manufacturing and marketing of the well-known International
Brand ‘Pringle of Scotland’. The Company has been successful in making it the
most exclusive Brand in the Country. The Company also owns the well-established
Brand name in Sweaters--‘Casablanca’, which too is one of the topmost Brands in
the Country.
Malwa Industries Limited (MIL), incorporated in 1993, is an ISO 9001:2000, ISO
14001:2004 and Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certified Company and a Govt.
Recognized Export House with manufacturing capacity of 20 million meters of
Denim Fabric per annum. MIL also has a jeans wear plant with capacity of 4.50
million pieces per annum in India and 4 million pieces in Jordan. It also has a wet
finish unit in Italy with 2.5 million pieces per annum catering to niche brands
overseas.

ABOUT THE MANAGEMENT

The Company is being managed under the able and dynamic leadership of Sh. Rishi
Oswal, Mg. Director, who has an experience of more than 13 years in the Industry.
The operations are being overviewed by Sh. Jangi Lal Oswal, Chairman of the
Group, who has more than 31 years of experience in the Industry.

The Company’s Board comprises of 9 Directors on its Board, out of which, 3 are
independent Directors with a non-executive Chairman. 6 of the directors are
professionals/technocrats/consultants including 2 as Institutional Nominees and only 3
are from the family.

A team of well-qualified and vastly experienced professionals in the field of

Technical, Marketing, Finance and HR are supporting the top management and
constantly striving to achieve Excellence.

ABOUT THE PRODUCTS

Denim is one of the world’s oldest fabrics. From the 17th century to the present,
Denim has been woven, used and discarded, made into upholstery, pants and
garments, found in museums, antique stores and archaeological digs, worn as the
fabric of hard & honest worker and also used for the sailors of Columbus’ ships in
legend. Legend and fact are also interwoven when scholars discuss the origin of the
name of Denim. Most reference books say that Denim is an English corruption of the
French ‘serge de Nimes’, a serge fabric from the city of Nimes in France.

Hence, born in Europe, Denim’s function and adaptable form found a perfect home in
America that today is biggest consumer of Denim in the world. Denim today is being
used in various designs and weaves using various blends of yarns and these
innovations in Denim are believed to be keeping the fabric eternally young. The size
of the global denim fabrics industry in 2004 was estimated broadly at around
2,730 million metres annually, valued at an estimated US$8 billion (Source:just-
style.com).

ABOUT COMPANY’S MARKETS

MIL today exports to over 40 countries across the Globe as diverse as Italy, Portugal, USA,
UK, France, Turkey, Australia, Sri Lanka, Kenya, Iran, Lebanon, Malawi, Tunisia, Morocco,
Israel, Dubai, Bangladesh, Russia, Poland, Mauritius etc. Apart from the above, the
Company also has a fair presence in the Domestic market mainly for its Value Added
Products (VAPs). The Company has been awarded 2 Silver Trophies by the Govt. of India,
for Outstanding Export Performance in Fabrics amongst Manufacturer Exporters for
year 2000-2001 and Outstanding
Export Performance in Fabrics amongst Non-Quota Exports for the year 2000 – 2001
and again awarded with similar category for 2001-02.
MIL is a relatively young player in the Denim Industry. However, its youth is limited to its
age only, since it has already created ripples in the Industry and is giving the oldies of the
Industry a run for their market-shares. Infact, in its short span of 8 years, Malwa Industries
has already made deep inroads in all the major Fashion markets all over the world. The
Company has very strong presence in the fashion conscious Italy, Portugal, France, Spain,
Turkey and other European markets. The Company’s Denim is being used in the garments
from major fashion Brands like Zara, Levi’s, Next, VF, Calvin Klein, Spring Field, No
Excuse, H&M, Target and Sears etc. Garments are being supplied to brands and retailers
like VF, NEXT, George, Burton, Topman, Tom Wolf, Levi’s Red Tab & Silver Tab,
GLO and Nine West of Jones Apparel, Nautica etc. from the facilities in India and Jordan.
The Company has been equally focused on the Domestic Market. With the booming Apparel
market in India, whereby all the major International Brands talk of outsourcing garments from
India, the demand for the Company’s Value-added Products is continuously rising in the
Country. Already the major domestic Brands have started increasing their capacities,
increasing the Domestic Demand further and translating into higher prices and better margins
for the Company. The Company’s products are well accepted and demanded by the major
Domestic Brands like Killer, Spykar, Pepe Jeans, Weekender, Charlie, Flu and Live-in
etc.

FUTURE OUTLOOK
The Company sees growth in Value Added Products of Denim. All the major textile research
agencies conclude that Denim has become a fashion item and the consumer is ready to spend
extra money for new and innovative designs and varieties in Denim. The Company today has
over 1000 different varieties of Denim to choose from to cater requirement of every type of
garment being manufactured with Denim. The Company has been constantly upgrading its
existing operations/ technology to meet market demand and to deliver quality products at
competitive prices to its valued customers. The Company has been able to create its name in
the international as well as domestic market as the ‘product-innovators’.
The Company still believes that ever-new varieties in Denim shall continue to drive the
growth an5d expansion of market for Denim. Hence, the Company plans to keep its focus
on R&D efforts and increase the share of “Value Added Products” like Multi-counts,
Slubs, Stretch Denim, Mercerized Denim, Shiny Denim, Pigment Dyed apart from the
already established Cross Hatches, Streaky
Denim, Chinos etc in its product mix. These products fetch far better margins for the
Company.
“Wool Denim”
One of the most exciting innovation programs of the Company has been in the development
of a fabric made 100% from wool but dyed and washed to give it the look of Indigo. MIL has
christened this revolutionary new product as “Wool Denim” and is in the process of patenting
this product, its trademark and its manufacturing processes worldwide. The International
Wool Secretariat (‘IWS’), the world’s regulatory governing body for all woolen products and
Jeans-Care (a world renowned specialty washing company) have assisted MIL’s R&D team
in developing this product. Garments made from Wool Denim are being designed in Italy for
purposes of marketing this fabric worldwide.
Wool Denim represents a specialty and niche high-end product, which is expected to have a
very high fashion quotient (thus appealing to super-premium fashion-driven brands such as
Zegna, Armani, Versace, Dolce & Gabanna, Prada, Burberry, etc) and at the same time
lending itself to the casual lifestyle flavor of denim, which could find application across a
wide cross-section of products and brands. MIL did soft launch of Wool Denim the product in
UK in collaboration with IWS to select customers. The company is working closely with 2-3
top end brands for positioning of Wool denim product line.
Wool Denim will fuel the Company’s aspirations to be an innovation-led business that will
drive growth by partnering with its customers in establishing fashion trends. MIL intends to
sell Wool Denim initially only to the super-premium brands thereby establishing itself as a
high-fashion player in the market, which will also have positive spin-off effects on the rest of
its business with all categories of customers
Moreover, with the disbanding of the quota regime from 1st Jan, 2005 onwards, many
Garment outsourcing orders from European and US markets have started to come to the
cheaper manufacturing countries, with China and India bagging the prominent shares.
Further, the ‘Made-in-India’ Denim fabric has already established its quality perception
amongst the highly quality conscious European and US Markets. Indian Denim fabric
fetches a certain premium over its other South Asian competitors’ fabrics. Hence, the
domestic demand for Denim is expected to grow manifold.
Expansion Activities
The Company expanded its fabric manufacturing capacity by 5 million meters (from 15 to 20
million mtrs per annum) and put up a 4.5 million pieces per annum jeans wear manufacturing
plant in FY 2005-06. The company has also put up a 6 MW captive power plant based on bio-
fuel. Considering the increasing demand of its products by & nomination of its fabric in the
leading brands of the world and also to meet its captive consumption of fabric in its Jeans
Wear facilities in India and Jordan, MIL is considering doubling its denim manufacturing
capacity to 40 mn. mtrs. p.a from exisiting 20 million mtrs
Acquisitions:
The Company has acquired two Units located overseas. One Unit is a Garmenting facility
having capacity of 4 mn pcs p.a. in Middle East (Jordan) and another is a top-end Wet
processing facility for Garments in Europe (Italy) having capacity of 2.5 million pieces per
annum. The rationale for such acquisitions is explained hereunder:

Jordan Acquisition (Third Dimension Apparel LLC “TDAL”)

The key strengths identified with TDAL, which are the primary reasons behind the
acquisition, are as follows:
➢ Well-established operations – TDAL has steadily built business with its key customers,
both in terms of volumes as well as the products that they manufacture for brands. Sales
volumes increased from approximately 1.25 million pieces p.a. in 2002 to approximately
3.4 million pieces p.a. in 2004 (i.e. a CAGR of 65% over a 3-year period), with a large
part of this growth contributed by Levi’s and Polo. It has also been approved by these
brands as a consistent source of supply. Hence, it provided a ready platform for MIL to
launch into its garmenting foray and accelerate its business plans.
➢ Common customer-base – Global brands such as Levi’s, and Polo are among the target
customers for MIL for its fabric and garments business. MIL would also be able to sell its
fabrics to TDAL and sell finished garments to Levi’s and Polo, amongst other customers.
Thus the acquisition could provide additional captive market for Denim fabric of around
5 million meters with the same garment buyer Brands.
➢ Logistics Play – Apart from USA customers, as the Unit is proximate to the EU, there are
opportunities for MIL to service EU brands as well from this unit, which would reduce
 the lead-times to its customers and position MIL as a multi-product, multi-location,
logistically flexible supplier to the brands.
The acquisition is also expected to have spin off financial benefits for MIL’s existing
operations as MIL will be able to negotiate orders and prices with brands with an
‘existing supplier’ status and not a new supplier. This negotiating leverage will place MIL
in a better position to ask for a premium over pure ‘garmenting’ suppliers who do not
have any fabric linkages.
Italy Acquisition (Emmetre Tintolavanderie S.r.l. “Emmetre”)
Strategic Benefits
➢ The Unit, having capacity of processing 2.5 million pcs a year, is catering to top Brands
viz. Armani, Hugo Boss, Miss Sixty etc. All these Brands are also Malwa’s target
customers for the Garmenting business. The acquisition gives access to sophisticated
customer base of the Italian unit.
➢ Access to propriety knowledge acquired over 30 years in Dyeing and High end washing
of Jeans and cotton trousers( i.e it is IP Co.) – currently a limitation in India.
➢ while the Quota restrictions have gone and that it is already bringing host of business
opportunities to Asian Countries, but there still are high-end fashionable Brands in the
Western World that do not look to Asia for supply of their input-materials. These Brands,
viz. Paul Smith, Jaeger, Diesel, Giorgio Armani, etc. sell their products at very premium
prices. We have decided that by acquiring this Unit, we can push our Indian offerings
faster into these Brands. This Project is intended to bring Malwa’s Denim Fabrics and
Jeans-wear out of the ‘Asian’ tag and increase its perceived value in the eyes of the select
top eminent Brands. The Project shall impart a radically new look to Malwa’s product
offerings, giving its Expansion plans a jump-start with tremendous demand-pull, and shall
put Malwa straight in the high-end fashion league alongside few Western European and
Japanese counterparts.
➢ Use of the unit as a vehicle to ensure premium pricing for garments made by Malwa’s
Indian factories. Malwa by this acquisition will be able to provide high end product at
price lower than Turkey, Tunisia, Romania etc. which sells to the above brands between
Euro 16-18 per pc. The spill over effect of this on our garment unit will be immense.
 DENIM PLANT PROFILE AND FACILITIES

CAPACITY CURRENTLY 20 MILLION METERS OF

FABRIC/ ANNUM & 45 MILLION
PCS/ANNUM AT LUDHIANA
SPINNING RIETER (SWITZERLAND)
WARPING McCOY ELLISON (U.S.A.)
DYEING MORRISON (U.S.A)
SIZING GRIFFIN (U.S.A)
WEAVING PICANOL (BELGIUM),SULZER
SWITZERLAND)
FINISHING MORRISON (U.S.A.)
FOLDING & INSPECTION KITAUMURA (JAPAN)
QUALITY CONTROL SPINLAB HVI-900 UT-3,UTR3 WITH
OPTICAL SENSORS
ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL LUWA (SWITZERLAND)
POLLUTTION CONTROL ION EXCHANGE SYSTEM (INDIA)
VARIETY 100% ROPE DYED DENIM FROM 7.5 TO
15.5 OZ
LIGHT WEIGHT TO HEAVY WEIGHT
STRETCH DENIM
RING SPUN*RING SPUN
RING SPUN*OPEN END
OPEN END* OPEN END
WIDTH 59” TO 66”
LENGTH ANYLENGTH FROM 100 TO 500 m
WEAVES COMPANY PROVIDES SOFT AND SUPPLE
HANDLE IN
COLOUR PURE 100% INDIGO DYED
MIDNIGHT INDIGO
DEEP BLUE
LIGHT BLUE
OVER DYED WITH SULPHAR

GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT LAYOUT

Total area 20 Acres
Area Occupied by various Departments
LOOM SHED(I): 60X50 Sq. Mts.
LOOM SHED(II): 30X50 Sq. Mts.
BALL WARPING: 50X50 Sq. Mts.
OPEN END SPINNING: 50X40 Sq. Mts.
DRAW FRAME: 20X80 Sq. Mts.
CARDING: 15X50 Sq. Mts.
BLOW ROOM: 50X40 Sq. Mts.
DYIENG: 100X35 Sq. Mts.
FINISHING: 60X35 Sq. Mts.
FOLDING: 15X35 Sq. Mts.
TYPE OF ROOF: INCLINED
TYPE OF GATES: IRON(SLIDING)

HUMIDIFICATION SYSTEM
The humidification plant mainly comprises of the rotary filter, dampers and
humidifier.The micro-dust is being transferred to the rotary filter (consisting of a large
filtering cylinder) where the micro-dust is retained and dust free air is sucked in with
the help of travelling nozzles. The purified air now obtained is now transported via a
suction fan to the humidifier and dampers. The function of a damper is to control the
flow of air to the department where the dry air gets humid and is transferred to
department.
(Almost all the departments in Malwa Industries Ltd. employ the LUWA system of
humidification and sucked in waste is being re-circulated along with proper filtration.)

TYPES OF PRODUCTS
The different types of fabrics being produced in Malwa Industries Ltd. are as follows:
➢ Normal denim-3/1 weaves with indigo dyed warp and grey weft.
➢ 3/1 weaves with sulphur dyed warp and grey weft.
➢ Sticky denim-mixed count in warp i.e. 5s Nec, 6s Nec, 7s Nec and 10s Nec
in ratio of 2:4:6.
➢ Cross hatch-mixed weft with mixed or same type of warp.
➢ Chino-ply yarns, ex. 2/20s Nec or 2/30s Nec are used in weft.
➢ Lycra denim-lycra yarn of 2/30s Nec are used in weft.
 ➢ Polyester denim : polyester filament weft of 660,330 denier is used in the
weft.
➢ Slub denim : Slub yarns are used in warp and/or weft.
➢ Fancy denim-A special appearance is produced by special shedding
arrangements.
Different types of weaves are used-plain, 2/1 twill, 3/1 twill, herringbone to get
special looks in denim.

RAW MATERIAL
The raw material (fibre) used in this unit is only Cotton. This mainly comes from
Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh etc. The cost of material from
the regions like Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan are given per 40 Kgs of the same,
where as it is given per 355 Kgs (cd) for the materials coming from Gujarat and
Madhya Pradesh. Lycra comes from Nahar Industries and Polyester comes from
INDORAMA (New Delhi).
Some of the qualities of cotton used here are listed below along with their costs and
staple length is:
Sr. No. Type Staple Length Price
1 J-34 S/G 25-27 mm Rs 2200-2400/40 Kg
2 J-34 R/G 25-27 mm Rs 2200-2400/40 Kg
3 DESI 19-20 mm Rs 1600-1700/40 Kg
4 V-797 24 mm Rs 1650/40 Kg
5 NHH-44 24 mm Rs 1600/40 Kg
6 SHANKAR-4 28-29 mm Rs 20000/cd
7 SHANKAR-6 28-29 mm Rs 20000/cd
8 Y-1 22-23 mm Rs 16000/cd
9 LYCRA 24 mm Rs 18000/cd
10 MECH-1 28-29 mm Rs 22000/cd

Along with the materials quality,the nature of ginning process is also specified along
with it such as:
S/G = Saw Gin
R/G = Roller Gin
R/H = Ready heap in the field etc.
Most of the materials used here are of S/G type.
This raw cotton comes in the form of bales each of 160-165 Kg and is stored in the
Godowns. There are four Godowns, each having capacity of 3000 bales. The bales are
arranged over according to quality and lot no. One lot generally consists of 55 bales.6-
8 workers along with person for clerical jobs work in the godowns, though the
number of workers may vary according to the requirement of situation.
The different parameters for raw cotton are not being tested here. Sampling is done
over here and it is sent to Q.A. lab for testing. The fibre properties being tested are
given below along with their respective values for a fibre quality, very commonly
used over here.

Quality code = J-34 S/G

Upper half mean length = 24-26 mm
Average Fibre Length = 25 mm
Short Fibre % = 10%
Uniformity Index = 80%
Average micronaire value = 4.2
Maturity Ratio = 74-84%
Trash Content = 4.5%
Malwa Industries Limited is a leading manufacturer of denim fabric and garments.
The company produces world class denim fabric in its manufacturing units in India
and abroad. Technically, Denim is a warp faced cotton fabric having 3/1 twill weave
with an indigo dyed warp & un-dyed weft. The warp having count 2/20 s or 10s and
weft count is 10s.But nowadays to produce a fancy effect in the fabric this definition is
no longer valid for denim fabric. Different weaves like broken twill, combined twill
and plain weave are also used with variety of yarn counts to produce denim.
PROCESS FLOW DIAGRAM OF DENIM PRODUCTION
SPINNING (O.E./RING)

BALL WARPING

ROPE DYEING

LONG CHAIN BEAMING

SIZING

WEAVING

FINISHING

INSPECTION AND FOLDING

PACKING

DESPATCH
 SPINNING
In Malwa Industries Limited, both open end and ring spinning methods are employed
to spin yarn. First open end spinning department the mill is being explained:

Capacity : 1840 rotors

(5 m/c-216 rotor
2 m/c-240 rotor
1 m/c-280 rotor)
Rotor manufacturer : Rieter
Rotor speed : 50,000-85000 r.p.m
(depends on count)
Rotor Dia. : 32 mm
Count range spun : 4.5s Nec-20s Nec
Production/day : 25 ton
Efficiency : 93%
Waste : 10-11%
No. of people in deptt : 75
Energy consumption : 24000 units/d

OPEN END SPINNING

In Malwa Industries Ltd. the final product is denim which requires coarser yarns (5.6s,
6.1s, 8 s, 9 s, 10 s, 12s, 16 s). For the production of these counts open and spinning is
preferred instead of Ring spinning.

RING SPINNING
Capacity : 7596 spindles

(2 R/F Compact Co.-1008

spindle

5 R/F Zinser Co.-1116

spindle.

Spindle speed in R/F : 13,000 r.p.m

T.M. : 4.2-5.0

Count range spun : 4s Nec-20s Nec

Production/day : 10-12 ton

Efficiency : 93%

Waste : 10-11%

No. of people in deptt : 120

Energy consumption : 24000 units/d

 BALL WARPING

The main object of ball warping is to prepare log for the rope dying machine. Here
magazine types of creels are used for the creeling of yarns in the form of cheese. The
no. of ends taken one as per requirement of further processes that is for preparing the
weavers beam. According to no. of ends in each group, the respective creeling is done
to make the required no. of logs to be used at the creeling zone of rope dying
machine.
Length of rope on log is generally 12930 m. the sheet of yarns passes through the
lease reed where lease are inserted , these facilities denting the long chain beaming.
Lease are inserted at regular intervals which can se set automatically on the machine.
Generally after every 1000 mts, lease is inserted. Leases also help in yarn separation
after sizing.

ROPE DYEING
HISTORY OF DENIM
In 1847, at the age of 17 Levi Strauss left his Frankonian native country in Germany
and immigrated to New York together with his family. The members of the Strauss
family were capable and skilful businessmen and also became pedlars. When the great
gold rush began in 1850, however, he decided to take part and went over to San
Francisco in California. He took with him a spade, a pick hammer and a bale of fabric
out of brown sail cloth which was meant to put up a tent. This did not happen,
however Levi found out that the gold diggers´ hard work in the mines made their
clothes get worn out very quickly and he produced stout working trousers out of the
sail cloth he had taken with him which he called half overalls. When he continued
producing these trousers he used cheap cotton fabrics coming from Genova. At that
time Genova was a flourishing place where cotton was exported all over the world.
The name of the town of Genova was modified into “jeans” in the American slang.At
the end of the sixties of the 19th century he replaced the brown sail cloth by an indigo-
dyed, wear resistant cotton fabric coming from France. The name of this fabric was
“Serge de Nimes”.Serge is the French expression for a combined twill and Nimes is
the French town where the fabric comes from. The fabric´s name Serge de Nimes was
quickly turned into denim in American colloquial language.

HISTORY OF INDIGO DYE

Indigo belongs to the category of water-insoluble dyestuffs.It was first mentioned in a

book 13 BC; at that time the name Indian blue indicated the country the colour came
from. It is said to have been used for dyeing in India and China 2000 years BC
already.The Indigo plant is used for preparing Indigo (ill 1).This plant came to Europe
in the 16th century via India and gradually replaced the woad which was one of the
most important dyeing plants up to this time.Only the leaves were used for good
qualities whereas the leaves together with the stalks were applied for normal
qualities.In a vat filled with water and partially with human fermented urine as alkali
donor stems and leaves were exposed to a putrefactive process.During this
putrefactive process hydrogen was created by means of micro-organisms which, as a
reduction agent, transformed the dyestuff contained in the Indigo plant into a water-
soluble form.When this process was over the whole mass was filled into a liquid
where the fermented mass was stirred with poles. The reason for doing so was to
transform the Indigo into its water insoluble form again by air oxidation.In a last step
the water-insoluble dyestuff particles could then deposit on the bottom of a stationary
vat. Then the liquid standing above was drained and what was left was a thin mash
which was dried in the open air and was put on the market in pressed or in powder
form (ill 2).

Illustration 1 illustration 2

The indigo was obtained exclusively from plants, of which is the most important was
Indigofera tinctoria, originally cultivated in India. Before the introduction of
synthetic indigo was the only dye which produced fast blue shades on cotton. Its
attractive shade, ability to build up to heavy navy blue shades by repeated dipping in
dye bath, ease of reduction and ability to dye cotton from a cold bath. The
introduction of synthetic indigo in 1897 and that of stable sodium hydrosulphite
in1905. One of the disadvantages of natural Indigo was that proportions of Indigo,
Indurubin, &Indigo Brown were never constant, so that there was no certainty about
different batches being able to reproduce exactly the same shade. For this reason
the production of chemically-pure indigo which would be constant composition
seemed to be most desirable.In 1880 Adolf von Baeyer succeeded in carrying out the
first synthetic production of Indigo. In the year 1897 the “Badische Anilin- und
Sodafabrik“ in Ludwigshafen – which is nowadays called BASF - was able to carry
out an industrial-scale production of the Indigo dyestuff for the first time. A few years
later this synthetic dyestuff replaced the Indigo coming from British-India almost
completely. As was already mentioned Indigo is a dyestuff insoluble in water. In
order to be able to apply it on cotton it must be transformed into a water-soluble form.
Similar to the former production of Indigo this is done by reducing the dyestuff. In
practice, this is nowadays carried out with sodium hydrosulphite in the alkaline range.

CHEMISTRY OF INDIGO DYEING

Indigo is a vat dye and as such it is insoluble in water,alkalies or acids.It is
characterised by the presence of –C=C- group as chromophore.It has no affinity for
the cellulosic fibre so long as it remains in insoluble pigment state.The reduction of
this vat dye is done today with Caustic Soda and Sodium Hydroxide solution.
REACTION WITH CELLULOSIC FIBRE
As we know that indigo dye belongs to the class of vat dyes, which are insoluble in
water therefore in order to prepare this dye for dyeing it must be chemically changed
in to the soluble ‘leuco’ form.The overall reaction of the dye is as follows:
Reduction

Insoluble leuco form of indigo

Soluble leuco form of indigo

The leuco form of vat dye is different in colour from parent substance, for instance, in
case of indigo it is pale yellow. After the cotton yarn have absorbed the leuco form of
the vat dye they are either oxidised by exposure to air or by treatment with an
oxidising agent such as Hydrogen Peroxide to reconvert the dye to its original
insoluble form. The affinity of the leuco form for cotton is, however, not as great as
with other vat dyes. So to achieve a sufficient deep colour, it is necessary to subject
the yarn to repeated application cycles of dye.
Prior to the dye dipping, the cotton material needs to be pre-wetted or boiled off by
passing it through hot and cold water baths containing surfactants in order to improve
absorbency. Although the colour depth of indigo is primarily determined by no. of
dips, the final colour achieved is affected by a no. of process parameters such as dye
concentration, pH, reducing agent, wetting agent, temperature, as well as immersion
and oxidation time. Such factors affect not only the build up of indigo dye on the
material but also the degree of penetration. In general, surface dyeing or ring dyeing
gives better apparent yield together with good wash down properties.
One of the principal factors affecting the colour yield and ease of washing down is the
pH of the dye bath. It has been reported that maximum colour yield can be achieved at
pH 10.5-11.5. This may be due to higher affinity and lower solubility of the
monophenolate form of indigo that exists at this pH range leading more intensive
surface dyeing. Addition of wetting agent in to the dyebath will affect the degree of
penetration and hence resulting lower the apparent colour yield.

DIFFERENT IONIC FORMS OF INDIGO

In dyebath reduced indigo can exist in the following four forms:
➢ Non ionic form: This form has little water solubility hence very low or negligible
affinity for cotton.
➢ Reduced non ionic form: This form is also having little water solubility and low
affinity with cotton.
➢ Mono ionic form: It has limited solubility but relatively higher affinity for cotton.
➢ Di ionic form: It has very good water solubility but relatively low affinity for
cotton.
The monophenolate ion has much higher apparent affinity and strike rate for cotton
than does the biphenolate ion. The higher strke rate of the monophenolate ion results
in less penetration of the yarn bundle and greater colour yield due to higher amount of
dye fixed at the yarn surface. Most of the monophenolate ion is produced within the
pH range of 10.5-11.5 explaining why colour yield is maximum within that pH range.
Conventional sodium hydroxide bath tends to have a pH that lies between 12 and 13.
In this pH range both mono-ionic and di-ionic forms of indigo are present. However,
at a pH of 10.8 to 11.2 only mono ionic form of indigo is present. Within such a pH
range, colour yield of indigo is optimum as shown in figure.The optimisation of
colour yield is caused by the relatively high affinity and strike rate of the mono ionic
form of the dye for bottom fibre, with low penetration of the denim yarn and a great
ring dyeing effect.
In most commercial denim warm dyeing operations, the pH of the dye bath tends to
fall roughly between 12 and 13 or even somewhat higher. Experimental results have
shown that the distribution of indigo dye in the cross section of denim warm is highly
dependent on the pH of the dye bath with lower than usual pH's resulting in a more
ring eyed warm having a greater depth of shade and an improved tendency to wash
down during laundering.
 Factors affecting eye build up on the cellulosic material and
degree of penetration

Effect of the concentration of indigo

The affinity of indigo dye to cotton warm and its build up property is very low.
Hence, the colour depth of indigo colour cannot be achieved solely by increasing the
dye concentration. Figure shows the effect of indigo eye concentration on the colour
K/S
depth. The colour depth or K/S increases with increasing dye concentration, but
remains fairly constant when the dye concentration exceeds 3 g/l.

Effect of immersionDYEBATH
time of yarn into dyebath.
CONCENTRATION (g/l)

It is clear from the figure that immersion time of 30 seconds appeared to be adequate.
Prolonged immersion does not increase the colour depth because the oxidised indigo
on the material may be re reduced by the reducing agents present and causes
desorption of the indigo back to the dye liquor.
K/S

IMMERSION TIME
 Effect of oxidation time on dye uptake

To achieve the progressive building up of colour, it is important to ensure adequate

oxidation after immersion. Figure shows the effect of oxidation time on colour depth
of indigo dyeing. The colour yield achieved becomes fairly stable when the oxidation
time is 60 seconds or longer. In practice the duration of oxidation depends on factors
such as the amount of reducing agent present, temperature and air velocity under
K/S
which the oxidation takes place.

OXIDATION TIME
(SECONDS)

Effect of no. of dipping

Since the colour depth of indigo dyeing relies on the progressive building up of colour
through successive dipping and oxidation the number of dippings is the prime factor
determining the final colour depth achieved. However, this is restricted by the types
K/S
of machine setup available. In general, optimum colour yield can be achieved by
choosing 10 dippings, since further dippings would only increase the colour depth
slightly. By pretreating the cotton material with cationic active compounds prior to
dipping the number of dippings can be reduced considerably.

NUMBER OF DIPPINGS
 Effect of temperature

Dipping should be done at low temperatures unless it is necessary to maintain high

temperatures owing to the use of reducing agents other than sodium hydrosulphite. At
K/S low temperature the affinity of the leuco indigo on the material to be re reduced into
the subsequent dipping baths. Wettability should be ensured by adequate pre wetting
of the material or by adding penetrant into the dipping baths. Figure shows the effect
of temperature on colour depth of indigo dyeing on cotton material, treated with
cationic compound as well as non treated material.

DYEBATH TEMPERATURE
( °C)

Effect of pH
 30
28
26
24
22
20
18
16
14 K/S(UNTREATED)

K/S 12 K/S(PRETREATED)
10
8
6
4
2
0
9.5 10 10.5 11 11.5 12 12.5

DYEBATH

The optimum pH to achieve maximum colour yield should be between pH 10.5 to

11.5. It was suggested that it is owing to the higher affinity and lower solubility of the
mono phenolate form of indigo present at this pH range that surface dyeing of cotton
is enhanced. Figure shows effect of pH on colour depth of indigo dyeing. At
pH,above 11.5 the colour depth decreases apparently.

Effect of cotton morphology

At a pH 10.0 the concentration of cellulose is about 3 x 10-3 gm ions/l of fibre but
increases to about 1.1 gm ions/l at a pH of 3.0. It is reasonable to expect repulsion
between negatively charged dye and fibre at higher pH's, since both the eye i.e. Indigo
dye and the cellulose are more highly ionised. Such repulsion probably could result in
a decreased apparent affinity, accompanied by a reduce strike rate and greater
penetration of the warm bundle. The increased stile rate results in a more ring dyed
yarn than that which would be obtained with lower strike rate found at higher dyebath
pH's. With increasing ring dyeing, there is greater shade depth for a given amount of
dye fixed per unit weight of yarn.

Indigo dyeing equipments and their advancements

The equipment used for dyeing cotton with indigo has changed over the years and
each mechanical modification has been an attempt to minimise problems and to
produce a better product by a more economical method. Unfortunately each new
development produced its own set of new problems. Until 1915 all dyeing was carried
out in the form of skeins, dyed in a any or pit. Repeated dips, followed by oxidation,
were used to build up the shade. Around 1915 long chain of warps were made and
eyeing was accomplished by pulling the warm bundle back and forth through a single
dyebox with intermediate oxidation in between passes.
It was around 1920, the long chain warp was given six dips through a three-box range,
and by 1930 the warp was passed continuously through a range of 4 to 10 dye boxes.
Around 1970, a system for warp sheet dyeing was developed in a sheet of yarn was
passed through four or five dye boxes, each with its own squeezing and skying
mechanism. Eyeing wars sheets through a single box, with multiple squeeze/skying
assemblies, began in 1972. Four to six or more dips could be achieved. By 1979
equipment had been developed, based on a 1903 German patent, to pass the warp
sheet through a single box with one squeeze roll assembly. With five or six dips, each
followed by squeezing and plying, could be accomplished.
Both long again warp and warp sheet dyeing are used today. About two-thirds of
indigo denim in the market is dyed by long chain method. The former is more suited
for high production mills since multiple warps can be dyed side by side.

Prerequisites for continuous indigo dyeing range

The application of indigo on an industrial scale was made possible by the introduction
of a continuous dyeing procedure for warp yarn. A typical indigo-dyeing installation
plant consists of following phases:
➢ Preimpregnating phase
➢ Dyeing phase
➢ After treatment phase
Preimpregnating phase
The Preimpregnating phase server to hold padding auxiliaries which eliminates air
from the yarn and by preventing oxidation of the dye, saves the indigo dye. It also
serves to carry out pre-dyeing with sulphur black to a pale or medium grey so as to
obtain a better ground dyeing. This pre-dyeing process is carried out in the first
wetting section of the continuous plant while the second section is used to rinse the
dyed material which is ultimately squeezed to retain 100% moisture content.

Dyeing phase
The dyeing phase consists of a series of dip vats where application of reduced dye
takes place and an aerial oxidation operation known as plying is done. The warp
usually remains in the individual dip vat for 20-30 seconds. It should never remain
longer than 60 seconds in each dip vat, because the fixed indigo is liable to be
revatted and removed. On the other hand he the immersion time is too short adequate
liquor exchange does not occur, and this may affect the penetration and depth of
shade obtained. At the discharge end of each dip vat is a squeezing and hence a
flattening out of the yarn. Air oxidation requires between 1 and 2 minutes out the last
passage should be somewhat longer (3 minutes)

After treatment phase

In the after treatment share with the addition of suitable auxiliaries, the unfixed dye is
removed and the chemicals washed out. The warp is then dried.

Types of indigo dyeing machines

There are three types of eyeing machines which are most popular in organised sector.
These are:
➢ Rope form dyeing
➢ Sheet form dyeing

Rope Form dyeing

Rope form dyeing accounts for a large percentage of the yarn dyed for denim warps.
The rope dyeing technique allows for the simultaneous production of more than one
warp set in one run. This maximises continuity of shades and maximises continuity of
shades and minimises the danger of side-centre-side shade variation. In such type of
 machine long chain warps are made up on a ball warp mill and consists of a bundles
of 320 to 380 ends of warp yarn. A process flow diagram of rope dyeing range is
shown as follows:

BALL WARPING CREEL PREWASH

DRYING AFTERWASH DYEING AND OXIDIZING
COILING REBEAMING SIZING WEAVING

Some of the important parts of the machine are defined:

➢ BALL WARPER
The ball warping process begins with packages of yarn in a warping creel. The creel is
normally designed to accommodate approximately 350 t0 450 packages when pulled
from the creel by the ball warper, the yarn ends pass through a leasing stand
consisting of special comb and lease rods. The configuration of the comb is setup so
as to allow an end-by-end lease. Leasing ensures proper registration of ends
throughout the entire dyeing process.
After this, yarn passes through a counter stand/condenser tube assembly where the
yarn sheet is merged into a bundle. From the counter stand the yarn then passes to a
traversing funnel or trumpet mounted on the ball warper. At this point, 350 to 450
ends are further merged forming the rope. As the diameter of the ball increases, the
beam is pneumatically loaded downward on to these drums.
Once the ball has been fully wounded, it is unloaded and mounted on the dye range
creel. The maximum (mechanical) speed of the ball warper will depend on the desired
production of the mill. A typical speed is 400 meters/minute.
The relationship of ball dimensions and the corresponding length of yarn is given in
the equation. A typical bailed yarn density of 59 cubic inches per pound is used in this
equation.

ROPE LENGTH=11.8 X yarn count X ball width X (D2 – d2)

ENDS PER ROPE
 Where D is ball diameter in inches, maximum of 48 inches
d is log diameter in inches, usually 9 inches
Ball width is in inches, usually 38 to 50 inches

➢ THE CREEL

The warping creel used in the ball warping process should be configured (number of
package rows in height and length) based on the mill’s space requirements and
limitations. Creel configuration will also affect specifications of the special comb in
the ball warping leasing section. The creel may be of the magazine or non-magazine
type. If long production runs of identical yarns are expected, a magazine type creel
would be an advantage.
An important feature of the warping creel is the creel stop motion. Creels can be
equipped with either drop wire, faller wire, photoelectric type, or motion sensitive
stop motions at the exit at the creel. The stop motion triggers the brake on the ball
warper once a broken yarn is detected so that the broken yarn end can be repaired.

➢ LONG CHAIN BEAMING PROCESS

Once the process of ball warping has been completed, the desired numbers of balls are
mounted on the dye range creel. Each rope or chain is then run through the various
stags of the indigo dyeing process at the same time. At the exit of the dyed range,
each dyed rope is coiled in to a bag or a tow storage canister. These canisters are
taken to the long chain beaming process. The basic purpose of long chain beaming
 process is to open each rope or chain of dyed denim warp into a sheet of yarn and to
wound this sheet under proper tension on to a warper or section beam that, in turn,
will be placed in a sizing machine.

➢ YARN STORAGE ACCUMULATORS

This optional yarn storage accumulator is located approximately 1.5 meters away
from the rear of the long chain beamers. The west point accumulator is designed to
store up to 12 meters of yarn. Yarn tension is controlled hydraulically for both
forward and reverse direction movement of yarn. Long chain beamer accumulators
controls are located on the operator’s control panel. Alternately, a dead weight type
accumulator can be mounted on the long chain beamer with approximately 8 meters
of yarn storage. The primary purpose of yarn accumulator in long chain beaming
process is to unwind the warp from the section beam, in order to properly repair the
warp end breaks, with no crossed ends.

➢ BEAMERS
Beamers are normally designed for a maximum speed of 450 meters per minute i.e.
500 yards per minute. By means of a foot actuated control, the operator can start or
stop the beamers. Running speed is set by the potentiometer on the operator’s control
panel. Beamers can normally accommodate a beam upto 72 inches between flanges
and can be configured to have either spindle driven beams or journaless type beams.
The equation gives the relationship between beam length and beam dimensions, using
a typical beamed yarn density of 56 cubic inches per pound.
 BEAM YARDAGE=11.78 x YARN COUNT x B.F x (D2 – d2)
ENDS
Where D is the beam flange dia. in inches
d is the beam barrel dia. in inches
BF is the distance between flanges, in inches
As many as 12 to 16 of these long chain warps, depending upon the machine’s width
and width of fabric to be woven are then passed down the range in a side by side
manner. As many as eight to ten, but frequently 4 0r 5 dips into the dyebath take place
with an intermediate squeeze and skying between each dip, after this cold washing,
yarn lubrication and drying follows. In a rope dyeing range, a caustic treatment box is
also attached before dyeing vats. As we know, caustic treatment and mercerizing are
two well known procedures used by dyers of cotton and cotton blended piece goods.
These treatments swell the cotton fibre and upon dyeing result upto a 20 %
improvement in colour value. The treatment also reduces the unpleasant appearance
of neps created by immature fibre.
The other boxes are primarily used for washing but in some cases, one may be used
for bottom colour. Due to this absorbency factor, as well as other factors, the reduced
colour is applied in steps from large volume immersion boxes equipped with just
enough nip pressure to remove liquid so that in doesn’t drip. Then the rope line moves
in to an air oxidation section for partial oxidation and fixation.
The rope dyeing ranges normally run about 30-35 yards per minute. The air exposure
time in each oxidation section is relatively short. The last wet section is washing and
rinsing. If needed, one box can be used for top colour.

ABOUT THE ROPE DYEING MACHINE USED IN

MALWA INDUSTRIES LIMITED:
 Malwa Industries Limited uses an imported modern rope dyeing machine
manufactured by Morrison Textile Machinery Company, U.S.A. It has following
features:
➢ Total length of yarn sheet in machine = 700 meters
➢ Maximum speed of machine = 60 meters per minute (average used 25-40 meter per
minute)
➢ Scour box = for pretreatment and can also be used for top colour or sulphur dyeing
➢ Skying rollers = 40-55 rollers
➢ Skying time after every bath = 1 or 2 minutes or depends upon the speed of the
machine
➢ Total no. of dyebaths = 8 baths
➢ Steamer = for the fixation of sulphur dyes
➢ Total number of washing baths = 3 (2 for cold and 1 for hot wash)
➢ Total number of dry cans = 36 (4 teflon coated and 32 are stainless steel)

MATERIAL FLOW IN ROPE DYEING MACHINE

PRESCOURING

HOTWASH

COLDWASH
 DYEBATHS

HOTWASH

COLDWASH

APPLICATION OF SOFTNER

COILING IN CANS
Let us discuss the (above shown) process of passage of yarn through the rope dyeing
machine:
➢ Pre scouring: The objectives of pre-scouring are the removal of wax content
from cotton, removal of trapped air from cotton yarn and making yarn wet.
This is done at 90 °C. We use the following ingredients at pre scouring stage:
• Caustic Soda: Its quantity depends upon the quality of fibres used in
the mixing. Generally, we take 2-4 % caustic soda. It removes the wax
by the action of saponification.
• Wetting agent: It is anionic in nature and increase the absorbency of
substrate.
• Sequestering agent: Even with the use of water softening, it is very
difficult to find the desired softness in water (about 2-3 ppm), so we
use sequestering agent to make the water soft.
• Why trapped air should be removed? The reason for this can be
understood as follows:
In 1 kg of yarns there is approximately, 2 litres of air. 1 litre of air
decomposes 1.8 litres of Sodium Hydrosulphite. It will cause uneven
dyeing and more consumption of hydro.
➢ Hotwash: As some caustic is carried by the yarn after pre-scouring, so hot
water is given at 70-80°C. If this is not done, this yarn will go into the dye-
bath which will change the pH of the dye-bath.
➢ Coldwash: After hot wash, yarn temperature is more. To bring it back to its
room temperature, cold wash is given to it.
➢ Indigo dyeing: Indigo is not a perfect vat colour. It may be called a trash vat
colour. The constant of substantivity for other colours is 30, for indigo it is
only 2.7. So there is a need of 5 to 6 dyebaths and to make the use of multi-dip
& multi-nip facility to increase the penetration. The dyeing is done at room
temperature as indigo belongs to Ik class of vat dyes where dyeing is done at
room temperature and oxidation is done by air only and not by chemicals. If
oxidizing agents are used, they will cause stripping of colour.
➢ Indigo is insoluble in water so it is reduced with Sodium Hydrosulphite. Then
caustic soda is added to make sodium salt of vat colour to make it water
 soluble. To reduce 1 kg of indigo 700 gms of hydro is required. However,
some extra hydro is required to avoid decomposition of hydro. Practically it is
prepared with following sequence:
• Take indigo.
• Add caustic soda.
• Then hydros
➢ When caustic is added to indigo, it is an exothermic reaction. It is allowed to
cool down, then before sending it to feeder, sodium hydro-sulphide is added.
Reducing agent is not added first as it will be decomposed first, so
consumption of it will increase. It is also not advisable to take solubilised vat,
as offered by some companies due to the following reasons:
• If it is used after 6 months, there will be a decomposition of
sod. Hydrosulphite. It will become partially soluble. Then to
make it soluble again, more hydro has to be added.
• Transportation is difficult.
• Cost is more.
➢ Feeding system: Rate of flow of yarn is given by:
(No. of ropes X No. of ends X Speed of m/c)
Count X 1.693 X 1000

(In kg of yarn per minute)

So we can determine the rate of feed of indigo. It is very important that
replenishment of indigo is there as any variation will result in the change of
shade and also if level is more, there is a problem of over-flow. If total
capacity of dye bath for example is 15000 litres, then circulation must be 3
times the volume. If it is less then there are 100% chances of getting a lighter
shade.
➢ Core and ring dyeing effect: This effect is obtained by multidip-multinip
facility. pH of the Dye bath should be kept in between 10.5-11.5. At this pH ,
sodium salt of Indigo is mono phenolic form. At this form, the strike rate of
dye is very high. So after washing, there will be a better dye effect. At pH 11.5
 to 11.7, at this affinity is less, so dye effect will be less prominent. pH is
controlled by the addition of caustic soda.

➢ Testing of hydro:
• Total hydro: We take 10 ml of indigo with hydro in 30-35 ml of water. It
is set for one minute and shaken. As air will decompose hydro. So vacuum
created will fetch the water from above. If 3 ml of water is required, then
concentration of hydro is 3 gpl. As a thumb rule, concentration of total
hydro should be min. 1.5 gpl.
• Reduced hydro: It is the hydro that is used for the reduction of Indigo. It
should be around 0.7 ( 1000 kg of Indigo needs 700 kg of hydro to reduce
it). For testing we take 10 ml of dye solution and 30 ml of water and 5-6
drops of 40% formaldehyde and shake it for one minute. The water that
goes gives the readings of the reduced hydro.
If Total hydro is min. 1.5 gm/lit. then free hydro must be min. 0.5 gms/
litre which acts as buffer.
➢ Also hydro reduction capacity is measured by mV meter which measures the
Redox Potential. It should be around 760-800. Through the day, the redox
potential should be +- 20 mV of the norm. If it is more then the process
control is a failure.
➢ Washing: Rubbing fastness of indigo is very important. On a scale of (1-4), it
is 2. Washing is done to improve rubbing fastness. The rope is washed twice
with water at 60°C and then with softner.
➢ Why softner? : The rope is going to be opened at Long Chain Beamer. It the
softener is not used, opening will be hampered. It is generally 1.2% of the
weight of the yarn. It is a cationic softener. It is always having pH in the range
of 4 to 5.5. Softening is done at room temperature. If high temperature is used
there is always some chance of tendering of yarn. Concept of Buffer pH is
given by Virkler USA, they say by addition of this, there is 40% less
consumption of Indigo for same shade depth.

PROCESS CONTROL OF ROPE DYEING FOR DENIM

➢ Concentration of Hydrosulphite: It is measured by “titrano meter”. It should
be from 1.5 gpl to 2.5gpl , or by redox potential of dye bath which should be
from -730 mV to -860 mV.
➢ Caustic Soda or pH value: It should be 11.5-12.5
➢ Dye concentration in Dye bath: it is measured by spectrophotometer. It
should be in g/l

➢ Guidelines:
• High Indigo Concentration --> Shade is greener and lighter
• Low Indigo Concentration --> Shade is dull and Red.
• High pH or Caustic Concentration --> Redder and lighter
• Low pH or caustic concentration --> greener and darker
➢ Dipping time: Longer the dipping time, better will be the penetration and
lesser will be the ring dyeing effect. It varies from 15-22 seconds.
➢ Squeeze Pressure: High pressure will lead to lower wet pick up and result in
lesser color and better penetration. At rope dyeing, squeeze pressure is 5-10
tonnes, i.e. wet pick up is as low as 60%. Hardness of squeeze roller is about
70-75 deg. shores. If squeeze rolls are too hard then there are chances of
slippage and uneven yarn tension.. If squeeze rollers are too soft then shading
will occur. Surface of the squeeze rolls should be ground twice a year.
➢ Airing Time: It should be 60-75 seconds. Longer airing time results in high
tension on the yarn and subsequent processes will become difficult.
➢ Drying: Insufficient or unevenly dried yarns will result in poor rebeaming
➢ Calculation of Replenishing Dye feed/min:
If Conc. of stock vat is g/l= 90 range, speed in yards/min=25, count=7s ,total
ends=4100. Then,
Weight of yarn dyed per minute= (4100x25x1000) = 7924 gms
(7x840x202)
shade desired = 2%
Amount of dye to be replenished/min= 158.5 gms
➢ Effect of pH: At pH of 10.5 to 11.5, there will be formation of more
monophenolate ions, which lead to higher color yield, as strike rate of the dye
 to the yarn bundle is very high, and wash down activities will be very good. At
pH higher than this, dye penetration will be less and wash down characteristics
are also poor.
➢ Computerised Colour Matching: In Malwa Ind. Ltd., computerised colour
matching is used to maintain shade consistency. A computerised colour
matching system is used here which consists of a computer, a
spectrophotometer and a Premier Colorscan Colourlab+ colour matching
software. The spectrophotometer is calibrated for white i.e. 100% reflectance
by using a standard white tile and for black i.e. 0 % reflectance the port is left
open for the light to pass through. At regular intervals during the dyeing the
rope is taken and scanned at the port of the spectrophotometer to get the
A.B.S, L*,a*,b*,c*,h* values which must match with the standards already set
for the particular style by the P.P.D deptt.

TESTING
➢ Alkalinity in Dye Bath Liquor: Pipette 10.0 ml of vat liquor into 100ml of
distilled water in a 150 ml beaker. Place under continuous agitation and insert
the electrodes of a pH meter calibrated at pH 7.0 with standard buffer solution.
Titrate with tenth normal HCl ( 0.1 HCl) to pH 7.0 (ml = A). Calculate NaOH
gpl = A x 0.40
➢ Hydro in Dye bath Liquor: Add 2 ml of 37% HCHO to 150 ml beaker. Add
2 ml of dye range liquor. Add 6 ml of 25% glacial acetic acid solution
prepared by diluting 1 part acid with 3 parts water. Add 2 ml of starch/KI
indicator. Add ml of water. Titrate with 0.046 N ( prepared by diluting 460 ml
of 0.1 N Iodine to one litre ) solution until the colour changes from emerald
green to bluish purple.
G/l of hydro= mo of 0.046N of Iodine
➢ Importance of High Concentration of Free Hydrosulphite: The clearest
shades with minimum reddish streaks are observed at by relatively high conc.
of hydrosulphite. On the other side, with lack of hydrosulphite, the leuco
indigo is less dissolved and thereby adheres to a greater extent to the fibres.
With lack of hydrosulphite furthermore, the amount of unreduced dyestuff by
 oxidation at the upper level of the liquor and through activation of unfixed
dyestuff, gets separated from the fibrous material would constantly rise as the
reducing agent for creating leuco form would be missing. Under these
circumstances a reddish bronze like shade results due to dispersion of not
reduced dyestuff in the yarn. The min. proportion of hydrosulphite should be
around 1.3 to 1.5 gpl in case of rope dyeing and 3-4 gpl in case of sheet
dyeing. Also to avoid the lack of hydrosulphite or Indigo at certain places in
the immersion, vat, the whole quantity of the liquor should be circulated 2-3
times every hour.
➢ Reaction Time: At very short reaction time, an adequate liquor exchange ( i.e.
the amount of chemicals consumed and replaced by fresh addition of reduced
indigo) is not assured. This has a negative influence on dyeing and depth of
dye penetration. In addition to this the time available for diffusion of dyestuff
until oxidation commences is too short. To ensure an even and good depth of
dye penetration by dyeing in several passages, the reaction time should be 20-
30 sec. for each vat (eg. at a speed of 20m/min for a reaction time of 10
seconds, the immersion path should be maximum 3.3 meters). A reaction time
exceeding 60 seconds should be avoided as the amount of dyestuff again get
reduced and released may again supersede that of additionally take up dye
stuff, resulting in higher shades.
STYLES OF DYEING

The following styles of dyeing are generally employed in this mill.

➢ INDIGO DYEING
In rope dyeing machine tow methods are employed for indigo dyeing, 5 dip-
followed over here, such as Dark shade (2.75% o.w.m) medium shade (2.45%
o.w.m) and for normal shade (1.92% o.w.m)
➢ SULPHUR DYEING
In case of sulphur dyeing the caustic treatment is generally done at a higher
concentration (40-60 gpl) at room temperature and is thus referred to as
mercerisation. In this high percentage sulphur colours are used.
➢ INDIGO BASE SULPHUR TOPPING (IBST)
 In this process as quite clear from the name itself. The ropes are firstly dyed
with indigo a by 3 dip - 3 nip method and is followed with sulphur dyeing with
1 dip - 1 nip method.
➢ SULPHUR BASE INDIGO TOPPING (SBIT)
In this type of dyeing the ropes are first dyed with sulphur dye and then and
indigo topping is given on it. In this no scouring is required.
Some other styles are which are less dyed are: IBYT,IBGT,BBIT etc.

Recipe for the style DYIB

Recipe for wash box 1
INITIAL FEEDING
Chemicals gpl gpl
S.YELLOW 20 45
S.Sulphide 15 30
Caustic 3 6
EH 4 6
DEKOL 1 2

INITIAL ADDITION : 400 LTR INDIGO COLOUR FROM STOCK VAT TO

M/C Parametrs:
NIP
PRESSUR temprature
BOX NO E PROC. SEQ. 0
c
PSI
DRAW
NIP 45
WB-1 80 S.YELLOW 90
WB-2 75 Hot wash 50
WB-3 70 cold wash RT
DB-1 75 indigo RT
DB-2 85 indigo RT
DB-3 80 indigo RT
DB-4 75 indigo RT
DB-5 75 indigo RT
DB-6 75 cold wash RT
DB-7 75 S- BLACK 90
DB-8 80 EMPTY RT
SODA
WB-4 75 SOAPING 50
WB-5 75 Hot wash 60
WB-6 85 Hot wash 60
WB-7 60 softner 40

RECIPE FOR D.B-7

Chemical INITIAL FEEDING
s gpl gpl
S.BLACK 45 280
S.Sulphid
e 35 50
Caustic 7 10
EH 3 5

OTHER PARAMETERS:

INDIGO S.BLACK
Speed = 20mpm SHADE= 3.3%
Indigo = 3.5% PH = 13.0 ± 0.1
Redox = 620 ±
Redox = -800--810 11
PH = 12.0 ± 0.1
Hydro = 2 ± 0.1
GPL
Softner
GP
Chemicals L
Swpi 40
Spg 10
Acetic Acid 3

RECIPE:
indigo shade% _ 5.4%
INITIAL ADDITION :Add 900ltr. Stock solution in initial indigo bath

Deep Indigo
RDNI 4
Dekol 2
primasol 2
Caustic 75
S.hydro. 130
indigo 100
M/C Parametrs:
 PROC. Temprature
BOX NO NIP PRESSURE SEQ. 0
c
PSI
DRAW NIP 45
WB-1 80 Scouring 70
WB-2 70 Hot wash 60
WB-3 75 Cold wash R.T.
DB-1 85 indigo R.T.
DB-2 80 indigo R.T.
DB-3 85 indigo R.T.
DB-4 85 indigo R.T.
DB-5 90 indigo R.T.
DB-6 90 indigo R.T.
DB-7 90 indigo R.T.
DB-8 85 indigo R.T.
WB-4 60 Cold wash R.T.
dtci hot
WB-5 60 wash 60
WB-6 85 Hot wash 70
WB-7 60 Softner 45

Speed = 18mpm

OTHER PARAMETERS:
Softner
INDIGO Chemicals GPL
redox - 770 ±10 SWPI 50
ph -12.9 ± 0.1 Spg 12.5
Hydro gpl -2.7± 0.1 Acetic Acid 3

Scouring
Chemicals Initial feeding
Dekol 2 2
EH 8 8
Caustic 20 30

In wash box no.5 -

DTCI :-DTCI (6 gpl)

THE PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR SULPHUR BLACK IS:

Log
 Creel

Draw nip

Scouring

Washings(2)

Dye-boxes(2)

Cold-Wash

Detergent Washes(2)

Hot Wash

Softening

Drying

Coiling

THE PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR SULPHUR BOTTOMING INDIGO

TOPPING (SBIT) IS:

Log

Creel

Draw nip
Sulphur Black Dyebath-1

Hot Wash

Cold Wash

Indigo Dyebaths(3)

Hot Washes(2)

Cold Wash

Softening

Drying

Coiler
THE PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR INDIGO BOTTOM
SULPHUR TOPPING (IBST) IS:
Log

Creel

Draw nip

Scouring

Indigo Dyebaths(3)

Overflow Washing

Sulphur Dye bath

Wash-Boxes(3)

Softening

Drying

Coiler

DIFFERENT DYES & CHEMICALS USED IN PREP. &

PROCESSING
CHEMICAL USED FUNCTION

Caustic soda : Alkali

Sod. Hydrosulphide : Reducing agent

Setamol ws : Dispersing agent

Siligen TX-2471 : Softener

Sulphur Navy Blue PR/LF : Dye

Sulphur Black PR/LF : Dye

Indigo Powder : Dye

Sodium Sulphide : Reducing agent

Soda ash : Alkali

Antioxidant PRS liquid : Oxidizing agent

Mercersal RWLF : Mercerising agent

Sandapor RSK liquid : Wetting agent

Sandozin NITI : Improve sew ability

Direful OLIVE : Dye

Delal FB-sm : Wetting

Primasal NF : Wetting

Ceranivl LINI : Softener (cationic)

PVA : Binder

Diresul yellow/khaki : Dye

Texoplast -86 : Modified starch

Sicoflex-100 : Binder

QWNI : Softener

DTCI : Wetting agent

Sand soft SPG liquid : Cationic softener

Lyacol RDNI liquid : Dispersing agent

Bilbind PS : Binder

Dirsul Black R Dt Liquid : Sulphur Black dye

LONG CHAIN BEAMING

The dyed ropes in the cans coming from the rope dyeing machines are converted into
pre beams. The no of ends (around360) in a rope is the same as set in Ball warping
machine.

The ropes are withdrawn from the can by means of a pair of drawing rollers as it
passes over a guide and through a trumpet guide to enter the nip of drawing rollers.
After this it enters the tension stand, where it wraps (usually3) around the falling
rollers on then passes with in a number of guides and around roller to enter the
accumulator. The tension at the tension stand (model 315-2) is kept between 20-40
psi, depending on the count of the yarn. At the accumulator (model 203) the tension is
generally set at 60-80 psi and it is used to accumulate the length (max length of 25m)
of rope that is reversed drying detection of any broken end. It works on the principle
of gate type tensioning. One set tension. The path of yarn is some what different in the
mill made machine. There is no accumulator & thus an extra person is employed to
pull the rope, while the beam is being reversed to maintain the desired tension. After
coming out of the accumulator the rope passes around the beater bar on the tension
stand. From this point itself the ends are individualised and goes onto pass through the
dents followed by the warping section (model 103). This wrapper’s beam is positively
driven and the speed is controlled by means of a feed back sensor. The pressure roll
presses with a pressure of 7-15 psi on the package i.e. the pre beam.

The denting is made easier with the help of lease threads, which separates the adjacent
end in two levels. These lease threads are taken out of the shed before the end crosses
the dent.

MACHINE DATA

Maker : Mc Coy Elision (U.S.A)

Year of manufacture : 12/12/2002

Running speed : 250-300m/p

Pressure : 7-15 psi

Efficiency : 35-40%

SIZING
Sizing is the “Heart of the weaving” especially for modern weaving. It is also said that
“Sizing done is half cloth woven”. Sizing is done to increase the strength of the yarn.
This helps to reduce the breakage during weaving. Sizing also reduces the hairiness of
the yarn & increases its smoothness. Due to sizing the opening and closing shed
become easy. The beams made from LCB are placed on the creeling zone of the
sizing m/c. 10-12 beams at a time are feed to the m/c. The yarn from the beam passes
under the several guide rollers to the tension roller & nipping roller & then yarn in the
sheet form is feed to the sizing box. In sizing box three rollers are placed, feed roller,
immersion roller & squeezing roller. The feed roller the material & immersion roller
immersed the yarn sheet into the sizing liquor. The material dried by cylinders, there
are 12 drying cylinder. After the material is material is passed through separator,
which separate the each yarn end then it pass through the finally the sized yarn wound
the beam. There are two sizing machines.

MACHINE DATA

➢ Maker - Griffin (U.S.A)

➢ Year of mfg. - 1997
➢ No. of machines - 2
➢ Maximum speed - 60-80 mt/min
➢ Total Creel Capacity - 24 Beams
➢ Beam tension - 98 g/end
➢ Viscosity of size - 8%
➢ Moisture Present in - 7%
➢ Temperature of size box - 90°C
Squeezing pressure at the size box:

Count Slow (psi) Fast (psi)

16s 14 16
2/40s 14 16
7s 25 27
Mix 24 26
CHEMICALS FOR SIZING

Textilose B : Modified starch

Maize Starch : Raw Starch
Anilose E : Mod. Starch
Mutton Tallow : Lubricant
PVA : Binder
Potassium permengnate : solvent
Sulphate

➢ Size pickup : 6.8% for 7s

➢ Size pickup : 12% for 16s

THE DIFFERENT OPERATIONS FOR MAKING THE WEAVERS BEAM:

➢ The empty beam is lifted by lifting the arm to a predetermined position & the
mounting heads on either end of beam gets fitted with beam or box

➢ After tying the ends on the beam, it is positioned in line with the end.

➢ The squeezing roller at the back of beam press on it.

➢ The dents/unit length and its position are adjusted according to requirement.

➢ The machine is started with a micro motion (1-3mpm)& then switched on to

slow motion(3-30mpm). But generally at 10mpm & then transferred to normal
motion of about 50-60 m/m.

➢ As the machine stops automatically the set length is would by pressing the
switch which disengages the mounting heads and lowers the arm carrying
beam.

DRAWING-IN
The object of drawing-in process is to draw the yarn through draw pins ( drop pins)
and heald eyes according to weaving plan.
The heald frame for different looms are of different types and sizes according to the
manufacturer. To which loom which beam has to be gaited is pre-planned. The
drawing order or reed count is given by P.P.C.

NO. OF STANDS : 3
TYPE OF DRAWING : Manual
LABOUR (SHIFTWISE/BEAM) : 2
AVERAGE NO. OF ENDS
DRAWN/SHIFT/OPERATOR : 8000-9000
TOTAL NO. OF WORKERS/SHIFT : 3x2=6
REWINDING
INTRODUCTION

There is only one winding machine, which is used only optionally i.e. when the
package supplied from the spinning machines are in a deform shape, improperly
wound or when there is more than 150 m of yarn left in the packages used for ball
warping. These packages are taken for rewinding and cones are made on this
machine.

The different characteristics and parameters of this winding machine are as follows:

➢ Maker : Rajesh Industries, Ahmedabad

➢ Type : Grooved drum (ebonite) wdg. m/c
➢ No. of wdg heads : 60 (30 on both sides)
➢ Winding speed : 300(mpm)
➢ Drum diameter : 4(inch)
➢ No. of crossings : 5 per double traverse
➢ Package conicity : 5057’
➢ Winding angle : 340

WEAVING
GENERAL INFORMATION

Weaving is the interlacement of two type of thread, one a continuous sheet of thread
known as ‘warp’ wound on a beam called weavers beam runs continuously and
another thread called ‘weft’ is in the form of a cheese and passed through the tunnel
of thread formed by warp sheet according to predetermined pattern.

There are two loom sheds having 95 looms.

➢ Total no. of looms : 95

➢ Picanol Delta X (Air jet) : 30
➢ Picanol Omni -2P (Air jet) : 16
➢ Picanol Gamma-2P (Rapier) : 25
➢ Sulzer (Projectile) : 24

LOOM SHED - I
There are total 71 looms in loom shed I.

Picanol Delta X (Air jet) : 30

Picanol Omni-2p (Air jet) : 16
Picanol Gamma-2p (Rapier) : 25

PICANOL – OMNI

MANUFACTURER : Picanol (Belgium)

MADE : 1997

LOOM RPM : 750 rpm

REED WIDTH : 190 cm

MAX. NO. OF HEALD FRAME : 6
 LOOM SHED-II

In loom shed II there are only 24 looms.

Total no. of looms:-24

SULZER (Projectile looms):-24

Specifications of projectile looms:

Manufacturer : Sulzer

Model : TM P7300 HP.

Weft insertion media : Projectile

Shedding : +ve cam shedding.

Take up motion : +ve, continuous.

Let off motion : +ve continuous.

Warp stop motion : Electrical, drop wire type

Reed width : 360 cm (double width)

Max. no. of colour mixing possible : 4

KNOTTING
When the reed count is not changed on a specific loom, the ends of the fresh beam are
tied with that of the exiting one with the help of TODO-knotting machine. The
selector no. is set according to the count of warp in the beams. If the counts of the
warp in the exiting beam and that of the fresh beam are different, then the selector no.
for the warp sets at the two levels are kept accordingly. The m/c can work at a speed
of 200-500 knots/min and it is a Fisherman knot. Two persons set the beam in
position while one runs the TODO machine. One knotting machine is sufficient to
serve all the 95 looms.
FINISHING
After weaving, the fabric is finished as per quality of fabric. Malwa Industries
Limited has a combined singeing, skewing and sanforizing unit where the fabric is
singed, skewed and sanforized to remove protruding fibres and make the fabric shrink
proof. The fabric is further desized, mercerised and heat set by using a stenter.
Coating is also done on some fabrics with the help of a Gaston Systems’ foam coating
machine.

INSPECTION AND FOLDING

The main function of this department is fabric inspection and folding or rolling of
fabric. This is the department where the quality of the raw material and the finished
product is checked. This department consists of testing, inspection & folding.
Fabric so obtained is inspected and packed for selling purpose. It involves 4 steps:

➢ inspection
➢ grading
➢ cutting plan
➢ packing
➢ faults observed

PROCEDURE:

Cloth roll

Inspection machine

Folding machine
 Grading

Packaging

Mending (reworking)

VARIOUS INSPECTION SYSTEMS

➢ 10 – point system ( JAPANESE system )

➢ 4 – point system ( AMERICAN system )

here, the system used is 4 point system,. In this system, the faults are categorized on
the basis of fault length as show below:

0-3 inches : 1 point

3-6 inches : 2 point
6-9 inches : 3 point
9 inches & above : 4 point

Hence, according to the length of the faults, each fault is assigned respective points. A
total of 38 points per 100 m cloths are acceptable. The piece with more than 38 points
per 100 m is rejected. The faults with 4 points are considered as major damages and
that with single point are considered as miner damages. So, in 100m of cloths, 4 major
and 22 minor damages are the acceptable limit beyond which the piece is rejected.

MACHINES IN FOLDING
 ➢ INSPECTION MACHINES – There are total 9 inspections machines for the
fabric inspection. The manufacturer is ALMAC. The speed of the inspection is
kept 20 – 25 mpm.
➢
➢ FOLDING OR FLATTING MACHINES - There are 2 folding machines used
for forming the bale of the fabric.

➢ ROLLING MACHINE – There is one rolling machine for forming the roll of
cloth.

➢ BALE PRESSING MACHINE – There are two bale-pressing machines for

pressing the bale.

➢ MENDING TABLE – There are two mending tables for reworking i.e. for
mending the damages if possible.

INSPECTION :
It is done in American style i.e. 4 points system.
0-3 inch damage is considered as 1 point.
3-6 inch damage is considered as 2 point.
6-9 inch damage is considered as 3 point.
9 inch above damage is considered as 4 point.
FRC : It is given to the small pieces which can also be sold in 50Kg bag.
Frend name is given to piece if length is in between 60-90cm.
Rags name is given to piece if length is in between 30-60cm.
Chindi name is given to piece if length is in between 0-30cm.

GRADING:
Grading is done in order to differentiate between good quality material and poor
quality material. Different grade which are given to the denim fabric are:
Grades D.P/100yd2 Major point/LMN Peace Length part
Allowed
Ultmo 10 -- 80-125 1
Platinum 10 1 80-125 1
Gold 20 3 80-125 1-2
Fresh 40 5 80-125 1-2
SSI 40 6 80-125 1-2
2ND 60 15 80-125 1-4
2SL 60 15 80-125 NA
2S3V shade variation NA 80-125 NA
2SV continous defect NA 80-125 NA

CUTTING PLAN :
Cutting plan is made in accordance with the number and type of defects.

PACKING
Packing for despatchable material is done in continuous process by machine of
LDPE sheet which is used for protecting the material from moisture and damage.
Package is done mechanically by the machine named after the company
PENGUIN-COIMBATORE having rpm 1500. The threading diagram is as
follows:
 D Insert film
Fil
St
m & jug to
re
an
Ro advance
tc
ci
ll
h
n
Ro
g
lle
Ro
rs
lle
rs

FAULTS NOTED IN FOLDING :

➢ MINOR FAULTS – This includes slubs, stains and contamination.

➢ MAJOR FAULTS - This include the faults like bent pick, double pick,
thick pick, stain mark, oily weft.

QUALITY ASSURANCE
This department takes care of the quality aspect of the raw materials (fibre or
yarn) and other auxiliaries for processing of the raw material , either produced from
outside or that being produced over here (at different stages of the process). It also
looks after the various processing parameters and the extent of utilization of
resources. It comprises of two department; one the physical testing lab and the other is
chemical testing and washing lab.
 HUMAN RESOURCE & ADMINISTRATION (HR &
ADMN.)

As far as the HR & ADMN. is concerned, the following points are taken into
consideration.
➢ Management hierarchy of the organization as well as decision making system
of the organization.
➢ Delegation of responsibility & authority among employees.
➢ Employment details of employees & work men.
➢ Salary/wages structure of the company.
➢ Work load distribution details (operational staff & work men only).
➢ Welfare of staff, officers & work men.
➢ Mandatory provision of labour welfare as per factory act.
➢ Safety measures adopted in the industry.
➢ Labour disputes details if any & industry steps for staff development,
workmen training.

EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

Screening :
The first unit operation encountered in waste water treatment plats is screening. It is a
device with opening generally of uniform size, which is used to retain coarse solids
found in waste water.
Screens are of two types:
➢ Bar screen type
➢ Perforated metal plate type depending on size & nature of matter to be
retained.

Grit Removal Chamber:

These are required in sewage treatment plant. Grit consists of sand, gravel or other
heavy materials that have specific gravities or settling velocities considerably these of
organic putrescible solids.
The grit chamber is provided to:
➢ Protect moving mechanical equipment from abrasion and accompanying
abnormal wear.
➢ Reduce formation of heavy deposition in pipe lines/channels.

Equalization Tank:
It is used to minimize the variability of waste flow rates and composition. The
untreated effluent from generation source is collected in equalization tank.
Objective:
To receive the effluent from dyeing unit, after screening the effluent through BSC
(bar screen chamber) it is used to equalize the flow before taken to subsequent units
and also avoids the anaerobic conditions with the help of floating aerators in tank.

SCC (solid content clarifier ):

The effluent from the EQT-1 is dosed with chemicals in a draft tube to bring about
effective coagulation and flocculation of water at reduced chemical composition
(alum & polyelectrolyte).
Here sedimentation takes place. Here the sludge settles down to be recirculated again
with fresh incoming effluent and chemicals while clear effluents with few particulates
low to the clarification zone.
Aeration Tank :
Its objective is biological treatment of waste water for reduction of organic matter &
suspended solids.
Secondary Clarifier (SC):
It is provided for the separation of concentration of sludge for effluent.
BOD (Bio-chemical Oxygen Demand):
It is an empirical test to determine relative oxygen requirement of effluents. The BOD
measures the oxygen utilized during a incubation period for the bio-chemical
degradation of organic matter.