Sunteți pe pagina 1din 24

Estonia

A great little country

www.visitestonia.com TRAVEL GUIDE


Includes 3 route maps
P eople from larger countries may find it odd that there are in fact no distant places in Estonia – one
can travel from one end of the country to another in just four or five hours without having to rush.
And yet Estonia is larger on the inside than on the outside, the “secret” well known and shared by the
locals. It is quite unusual to find such a variety in landscapes, flora, seasons, weather and moods with-
in only a couple of dozens of kilometres. At the same time the traveller in Estonia has plenty of space:
on the territory with a size comparable to that of Denmark or Holland there are four and twelve times
less inhabitants here, respectively.

E verything that you see while travelling around in Estonia is inseparable from our history. Estonians belong to the oldest peo-
ples in Europe and were already living on the coasts of the Baltic Sea at the time when the first pyramids were erected in
Egypt. Since the 13th century we have been invaded and ruled by Germans, Danes, Swedes, Poles and Russians, but each one
of them have left behind also something good. The Republic of Estonia was declared on 24 February, 1918, and for a couple
of decades the people felt pride in their home country, work, children and achievements. The vile and destructive occupation
by the Soviet Union which lasted half a century interrupted the natural development of many spheres of life in Estonia, which
until then had been keeping up well with its northern neighbour Finland. In 1991 Estonians regained their independence in
the course of the “Singing Revolution” and returned to their rightful place in Europe and the world.

M ost tourists who visit Estonia arrive first in Tallinn. Since this medieval Hanseatic town, the capital and the business and
cultural centre of Estonia deserves a guidebook of its own (of which there are plenty available), we will cover only the
most important facts about Tallinn in this publication. First and foremost we will focus on interesting places, activities, food
and culture in other parts of Estonia.

N orth Estonia – this is a mixture of colourful history and the dy-


namic present time, contrasts in lifestyles and nature, a journey
from trendy Tallinn to the quiet of bogs and romantic fishing villages,
an ascent from the primeval forest to the height of a limestone cliff
and a view over the sea. South Estonia is unique and mysterious: the
rich nature, lakes and hills of the heartland nourish the character of
the hard-working country people, the nostalgic atmosphere of small
towns and the academic-bohemian ambience of the university town
Tartu. West Estonia is characterised by vast expanses of land, peace
of mind and fresh sea air, bays abounding in birds, juniper fields, pine
trees and people toughened by the sea breeze on the coast.

A fter having taken the chance to travel in the world after the re-
gaining of independence, more and more Estonians spend their
summer holidays at home. What could serve as a better recommen-
dation to a visitor? We wish that you will enjoy yourselves here are
and leave Estonia richer – with new impressions and knowledge, and
a warm feeling your hearts.

Vano Allsalu
Your travel guide
NORTH ESTONIA

Estonia
A great little country
Tallinn –
a Hanseatic town
T allinn 1 , the oldest capital in Northern
Europe, was put on the map for the
first time by Arabian geographer al-Idrisi 

in 1154. Tallinn’s Old Town is included


in the UNESCO World Heritage List as
one of the best-preserved medieval town
centres in Europe. It boasts a town wall
with 26 defence towers, the Dominican
St. Catherine’s Monastery founded in
1246, the 600-year-old Gothic Town
Hall, the world’s oldest functioning phar-
macy on the Town Hall Square and the
159 metres high Oleviste Church which
was the highest structure in the world tween the harbour and the new busi- tive wooden house districts of Kalamaja
in the 16th century. Toompea Hill and ness district. The city centre with its and Lilleküla.
the towers of Oleviste Church and the cosy cafés, boutiques and art galleries info:
Town Hall offer breathtaking views over beckons to take a stroll and explore the Tallinn Tourist Information Centre
the Old Town. Toompea Castle, built +372 645 7777
streets, to have a drink and a bite to eat, e-mail turismiinfo@tallinnlv.ee
in the 13th and 14th centuries, is the to party, and – why not – to shop. There Tourist information centre in Tallinn port
seat of the nation’s parliament and there is also the Estonian Open Air Museum (Terminal A) +372 631 8321
flies Estonia’s “first flag” on top of Tall e-mail port.tallinn@visitestonia.com
which gives a glimpse of rural life, the WWW:
Hermann’s Tower. Song Festival Grounds, Kadriorg Park www.tourism.tallinn.ee | www.tallinn.ee/eng

T allinn is a dynamic city on the move.


The medieval Old Town is not a mu-
seum, but a vibrant, living organism be-
and Castle, the Pirita Convent, romantic
Nõmme, a garden town built under the
pine trees in the 1930’s, and the distinc-
Lahemaa and
Kõrvemaa
W hen you drive from Tallinn to-
wards Narva you will pass Saha-
Loo near Lake Maardu where the land
has been cultivated for over 3,000 years.
In Jõelähtme 2 there is the Rebala
Heritage Protection Area, by the muse-
um of which lies the oldest known stone
burial grounds in Estonia dating back to
the 8th-7th centuries BC. Nearby are the
Kostivere karst area and Jägala Falls 3 ,
largest in Estonia, which offer impressive
sights during high water in spring and
autumn. Kiiu Tower 4 , a vassal strong-
hold from the 16th century, houses a
cafeteria and has given its name
to a well-known Estonian li-
queur.
NORTH ESTONIA

E stonia’s largest national park, Lahe­


maa, is famous for its rich nature,
cultural heritage and beautiful sights.
popular Lamba-Ada Beach Bar in Vergi
9 and the stylish restaurant in Sagadi

Manor House.

M
The main attractions of Lahemaa are anors are undoubtedly one of the
sandy beaches, enormous erratic boul- main attractions of Lahemaa. The
ders, mossy pine forests, over 200 spe- baroque Sagadi Manor 10 is home to a
cies of birds and almost 900 different forestry museum and hosts an annual in-
plants. The ancient Altja fishermen’s vil- ternational workshop on wood sculpting.
lage 5 offers a glimpse into the life of Palmse Manor 11 , with a swan pond and
coastal people in olden times and its a palm house, houses the visitors’ centre rock and dip the feet in the sea. The sea
of Lahemaa National Park, a museum in- breeze, the sounds of screeching seagulls
troducing the life in the manor and a col- and a distant fishing boat are like a balm
lection of antique cars. Beautiful views for any weary soul tired of hectic city life.
open on Vihula Manor 12 situated on Silence and fresh air can be enjoyed in
the shore of a picturesque lake, and marshlands. For example, the Viru bog
on Kolga Manor 13 which was founded 15 which is surrounded by a pine forest

when Estonia was invaded by the Danes and has a boardwalk and a watchtower
in the 13th century. Those interested in is situated only 1 km from the Tallinn-
 culture should visit the art museum in Narva highway.

Altja fishing village

genuine romantic aura is a real treat for


an appreciative traveller. Near Altja you
can take a walk along the wonderfully re-
freshing Oandu forest trail 6 which with
its numerous information boards also of-
fers an educational experience. Among
other things, you will find traces of elk,
bear and wild boar, springs with crystal-
clear water, windfalls, as well as dunes
formed by the ancient sea: thousands of
years ago waves of the Baltic Sea washed
the shores here.

T he maritime museum in Käsmu


­“captains’ village” 7 , where there
was a maritime school from 1884 to
1931, has exhibits on seafaring, fish- Kakerdaja Bog

K õrvemaa is characterised by for-


ests, bogs, mysterious forest lakes
and moors. North Kõrvemaa Landscape
Protection Area with its centre in Aeg­
viidu 16 , which includes a former
Soviet military polygon, and Kõrvemaa
Landscape Protection Area with its centre
in Simisalu 17 make sure that the natural
landscapes remain pristine. Kõrvemaa is
Palmse Manor Jägala Falls
a habitat for various protected bird spe-
ing and smuggling. In the 1920’s, the Viinistu 14 that each summer hosts an cies including the golden eagle, the less-
years of prohibition in Finland, the sea- international interdisciplinary art festi-
men from the North Estonian coastal vil- val. There are around one hundred gi-
lages helped to quench their kinsmen’s ant boulders in Estonia that have a pe-
thirst by taking spirits across the bay in rimeter of at least 25 metres and one-
their boats under the cover of the night. tenth of them are found on the nearby
Today drink and food are offered at the Pärispea Peninsula.

A
colourful Altja Tavern 5 , the 18th cen- traveller can also just stop the car
tury rustic Viitna Tavern 8 , the and take a walk in the woods or on
the seashore, sit down on a sun-warmed
NORTH ESTONIA

er spotted eagle and the black stork, and


a number of fascinating plants.
bers, and you can
try your hand at U ndoubtedly the biggest attraction
in the area is the Ontika coast-

I n northern Kõrvemaa one can hike archery. Shen­ken­ al limestone cliff 31 that runs for more
along the nature study route of Pauk­ berg Tavern serves than 20 km between Saka and Toila.
järve, Jussi and Uue­järve. There are dishes made from At its highest the cliff is 56 metres and
watchtowers on the Pauk­järve glacial recipes hundreds presents breathtaking views of the Gulf
moraine and Venemägi. One of the most of years old. of Finland. Valaste 32 boasts the high-

T
remarkable examples of untouched na- he oldest traces of human inhabi- est waterfall in Estonia. One can admire
ture is the two-level Kakerdaja bog 18 in tation in Estonia, dating back more it on a special viewing platform which
Albu in the southern part of Kõrvemaa. than 10,000 years are found near Kunda also offers an excellent view on the 470
Valge­hobuse­mägi 19 Hill nearby has hik- 24 . The Kunda culture that existed from to 570 million-year-old amazing layers
ing and ski trails and a watchtower. 8,000 to 4,000 years BC was based on of rock. Limestone is Estonia’s national
stone and the Ontika coastal limestone

K õrvemaa also offers cultural experi- hunting and fishing. Of domestic animals
only the dog was known in those dis- cliff is a candidate for inclusion in the
ences. The museum of A. H. Tamm­
tant times, predating ancient Sumerian UNESCO World Heritage List.
saare, the great Estonian writer 20 , ­offers
a look at farm life in the past, hosts
theatrical performances in the summer,
or Egyptian cultures. When in Kunda,
the Cement Museum is worth a visit:
cement manufacturing started here in
N ortheast Estonia is a region full
of contrasts where beautiful land-
scapes are side by side with industrial
and is a starting point for nature hikes
in Kõrve­maa. Jäneda Manor 21 hous- 1870 and the first hydropower plant in locations such as the huge ashmounds 

es a unique musical observatory of the


­c omposer Urmas Sisask. Popular eat-
ing and partying places in Jäneda are
Musta Täku Tall and the seafood restau-
rant Suur­vanker which is built on a huge
horse carriage. In summertime tourists
can also visit Albu Manor House 22 and
admire its colourful wall paintings; near-
by in Albu Toidu­ait you can have a bite
to eat.
info:
Visitors’ Centre of Lahemaa National Park
+372 329 5555
e-mail info@lahemaa.ee
WWW:
www.lahemaa.ee | www.l-virumv.ee

The coastal limestone


cliff and Virumaa Narva

the Baltics was built in 1893. Nearby the that are the result of oil shale mining and

R akvere 23 got its town rights in 1302,


while the original wooden stronghold
ruins of Toolse Order Castle 25 stand on
the coast.
energy production, and the high chim-
neys of power plants. To get a pano-

E
Tarvanpää was first described already in halkivi 26 near Kunda on the Letipea ramic view of the area climb to the top
1226 by the chronicler Latvian Henrik. peninsula is the largest boulder in the of the Kukruse slagheap 33 , a stone’s
Now there is a museum and an open air Northern European area that was cov- throw away from the Tallinn-Narva high-
stage in the romantic ruins of the castle ered by huge ice sheets during the last way. The Kohtla Oil Shale Museum 34 or-
of the Teutonic knights, and next to it a Glacial Era. The perimeter of this giant ganises tours to the former underground
recreational area with a windmill and a rock is 49.6 metres and it weighs over mine where you can ride in a mine wag-
statue of aurochs, the symbol of Rakvere. 2,400 tons. A little more to the east you on, try out mining tools and eat a miner’s
The museum features exhibitions, tours will find Kalvi Manor 27 with splendid lunch which is served right there.
to medieval horror and torture cham- sea views, fountains and a luxury restau-
rant. Purtse 28 is the location of a unique
Rakvere fortified dwelling house from the 16th Kohtla Oil Shale Museum

century which is now a concert venue


and a restaurant. You can take a stroll
in the protected parks of Aa Manor 29
or Toila-Oru 30 , the latter of which is lo-
cated right on the seacoast and is rich
in various plant species. It surrounded
the former presidential summer residence
which was destroyed in World War II.
NORTH ESTONIA

T he oldest written record on Jõhvi


35 , the county centre, dates back to

1241. With its sea views and Sta­li­nist


the epic Estonian hero. Eastern Virumaa
is also the location of the Kurtna lake dis-
trict 39 where the hilly heath landscape
buildings, Silla­mäe 36 is a unique open covered mostly by pine forests is dotted
air museum of the Soviet industrial herit- with 40 larger and smaller lakes.
age in Estonia. Narva 37 , which was once info:
called the baroque pearl of the Baltic Sea Jõhvi Tourist Information Centre
+372 337 0568
but was almost completely destroyed in e-mail johvi@visitestonia.com
1944 by the Soviet air force, offers its Narva Tourist Information Centre
Saku Brewery
+372 356 0184
e-mail narva@visitestonia.com
Rakvere Tourist Information Centre
training centre of the Soviet submarine
+372 324 2734 fleet. The beautiful Pak­ri islands 46 near
e-mail rakvere@visitestonia.com Pal­diski were settled by Swedes in 1345
WWW:
www.rakvere.ee | www.ida-viru.ee
and were used by the Soviet air force for
www.narva.ee | www.kaevanduspark.ee bombing practice in post-Second World
War decades. In the Tallinn–Haap­salu
direction the sites of interest are Vasa­
West and lemma Manor 47 , the Padise Monastery

 South of Tallinn that dates back to the 13th century


48 , Harju-Madise Church overlooking the

visitors curious experiences. On the bank


T hose who do not want to leave
Tallinn for too long will find plenty
Pakri Bay 49 and Harju-Risti Church with
its unique steeple 50 .

of the Narva River that has for centuries


been regarded as the border between the
Eastern and Western civilisations stands
the powerful Hermann Fortress. Now a
museum, it faces Ivangorod Fortress on
the opposite side of the Narva River. A
few kilometres upstream is the historical
Kreenholm Manufacture, one of the larg-
est textile factories in Europe in the sec-
ond half of the 19th century.

T he Pühtitsa Dormition Convent in


Kure­mäe 38 , established in 1891 is
the only Russian Orthodox cloister in
Estonia and a destination for both pil-
grims and curious travellers. In the dis-
tant past it was the place of hiis, a sacred
grove worshipped in Estonia’s ancient
Taara religion. On the hillside there was
a sacrificial well. According to legends,
to see within an hour’s drive from the
capital. There is Estonia’s largest brewery
in Saku 40 , the museum of which gives an
O n the way from Tallinn to Pärnu it
is worth visiting the partially re-
stored Varbola Stronghold (first men-
the hill itself was created by Kalevipoeg, overview of the history of brewing; there tioned in 1212) 51 . Among the restored
is also a pub where you can have a meal parts are the gateway, well, siege tow-
Kuremäe Convent
and taste the local beer. About ten kilo- er and some catapults. The settlement
metres away in Kurtna 41 there is a mo- around Tuhala 52 is estimated to be as
torcycle museum and the Vembu-tembu- old as 3,000 years. There are 11 places
maa family amusement park. of ancient settlements, cult stones and

K eila Falls 42 are among the largest sacred groves in the area. Estonia’s oldest
in Estonia. Wonderful views open log road, dating back to the 3rd-4th cen-
from the 31-metre-high Türi­salu lime- turies, can be found in the Heinasoo bog.
stone cliff 43 . Another impressive coastal Tuhala, the largest karst area in Estonia
cliff can be found on the Pakri Peninsula Witch’s Well at Tuhala

44 dominated by a 54-metre-high light-

house and wind power generators. Pal­


diski 45 , once turned into a closed town
by the Soviet army, has remains of the
naval fortress built by Peter the Great
and the huge building of the former
NORTH ESTONIA

also marked bicycle routes leading to Kuuse­kännu Riding Farm 71 , Pallase


sights of natural beauty and historical Stables 8 , Arma Riding Farm 72 or Oru
buildings. Recreation areas with places Farm 73 in Western Viru­maa. Kohala
for campfire, shelters and other neces- Manor 74 offers riding for children on
sary amenities, as well as archaic-roman- Icelandic ponies. Golfers can enjoy their
tic huts and old farm houses for over- favourite pastime on the Niit­välja 68 and
night stays are managed by the State Suuresta 75 golf courses or practice at
Forest Management Centre RMK. A hike Sagadi Manor 10 . There are 4×4 safaris
in a bog will definitely be an unforgetta- and ATV tours, kayak tours to small is-
ble experience: by walking along a safe lands off the northern coast, wind surf-
is best known by its Witch’s Well that
boardwalk you can enjoy untouched pri- ing and rafting possibilities, wall-climbing
gushes out water at the time of spring
meval nature. In Rapla and Järva coun- and go-kart racing on the tracks of Türi-
and autumn floods as well as by a hid-
ties you can go canoeing on the rivers of Alliku 76 and Aravete 77 . There are nu-
den river that runs 1.5 kilometres un-
Jä­ga­la, Põltsamaa and Pärnu. For tips on merous possibilities for hunting bear, elk,
derground.
equipment and guidance contact the ca- wild boar and other big game; archery

P eople interested in manors should


certainly visit those at Alu 53 , Kuu­
siku 54 , Valtu 55 and Purila 56 near the
noe and bike trip services in Tam­selja 60 ,
the Kõrve Centre 61 or the hiking and
and bloodless hunting can be practiced
at Saka Cliff Hotel & SPA 78 . Hunting
skiing centre in Kõrve­maa 62 . In Western tourism is mainly organised by RMK.
county centre Rapla 57 . Those keen on

F
Viru­maa the rivers suitable for canoeing or those who love animals there 
gardening should attend the flower fair are Loobu, Kunda, Pedja and Valge­jõgi. is Tallinn Zoo and Sillaotsa Farm
in May in the Estonian “spring capital”
Türi 58 . The places to still hunger here
are the historical Nõm­me Tavern (1786)
87 , Kadri Tare Cafeteria, the station res-

taurant Külla Jürile and Saara Kohvi­


tuba, a café praising the work of sew-
ing. Interesting fabric dolls and decora-
tions can also be seen in the Resa Tiits­
maa’s puppet room. And before leaving
make sure you don’t miss the brightly
coloured cock weathervane on top of
Türi’s three-nave church.

N ow we are not far from the town


of Paide 59 that is the heartland
of Estonia and the administrative cen-
tre of Järvamaa. Paide, which became
a town in 1291, has several historical
monuments such as the octagonal gate
tower of the order castle as well as a
number of places for dining and recre-
ation. Located halfway between Tallinn A lthough the weather in Estonia can
be quite changeable, the beach
season usually kicks off in early June.
Museum 79 . In summer, the children’s
amusement park Vembu-tembumaa in
Kurtna 41 attracts visitors with trampo-
and Tartu, Paide is an excellent starting
point for traveling south or north. Bathing in the sea is limited to July and lines, an obstacle track and an outdoor
info: August but lakes and shallow bays have grill. In the Keila aquapark 80 one can
Harju Tourist Information Centre warmer temperatures. But a high sea- indulge in all sorts of water activities all
+372 600 1333
son or not, Estonian beaches such as year round. The spa resorts in Viimsi 81 ,
e-mail harju@visitestonia.com
Rapla Tourist Information Centre Kloogarand 63 , Kaberneeme 64 , Salmistu Laulasmaa 82 and Toila 30 offer the pos-
+372 489 4359 65 , Võsu 66 , Vainupea 67 , Narva-Jõesuu sibilities to relax in pools, saunas and salt
e-mail rapla@visitestonia.com
Paide Tourist Information Centre and the northern coast of Lake Peipsi chambers as well as to enjoy massage
+372 385 0400 offer nevertheless lots of atmosphere, and other treatments. Visitors who prefer
e-mail paide@visitestonia.com fresh salty sea breeze, and an opportu- rural holidays should visit the Väljaotsa
WWW:
www.jarva.ee | www.tyri.ee nity to be on one’s own. Those who seek farmhouse-spa with sauna and massage
fun and company should head for Pirita,

Things to do... Stroomi or Kakumäe beach in Tallinn.

T hose keen on holidays in nature will


find various hiking routes, nature
P eople interested in horseback riding
can choose between the Niit­välja
68 or Ruila 69 stables in Harju coun-

trails, guided manor tours and horse- ty, Maasik­mäe Riding Farm 70 in Rapla
back riding trips in Lahemaa. There are county, Jäneda Stables 21 in Järva­maa,
NORTH ESTONIA

services 83 . One can relax in modern in- ... and places to go in Lahe­maa, Nõmme Tavern 87 in Rapla­
frared and steam saunas at Saka Cliff maa and Musta Täku Tall 21 in Järvamaa
Hotel & SPA 78 , jump straight into icy
water from an archaic smoke sauna in T allinn has many memorable dining es-
tablishments that offer either medie-
val menus and atmosphere (Olde Hansa,
attract with excellent meals and the au-
thentic ambience of a country pub. At
Türi-Alliku 76 , visit a transparent plas- trout farms at Hüüru 88 , Jõgisoo 89 , Veski­
tic sheet sauna at Vana-Veski Holiday Peppersack), Estonian cuisine (Kuldse silla 76 and Vaikla 90 you can spend an
Centre in Ussisoo 84 , enjoy a barrel sau- Notsu Kõrts, Vanaema Juures), Italian enjoyable day outdoors, catching fish and
na of Anne Holiday House 85 or test the dishes (Bocca, Controvento), Russian having it prepared and cooked or smoked
heat of a very special sauna built inside food (Nevskij, Troika), international and on the spot.
modern cuisine (Pegasus, Novell), ex-

T
a fire truck at Järva-Jaani 86 . heatres, cinemas and museums make
WWW: clusive gourmet experience (Stenhus,
their best efforts to ensure a pleas-
www.retked.ee | www.ropeclimber.com Egoist) and much more. Party animals
www.egk-golf.ee | www.tallinnzoo.ee ant stay in Tallinn. In Kadriorg Castle
head for high-class nightclubs such as
www.viimsitervis.ee | www.saka.ee one can enjoy classical painting and
www.laulasmaa.ee | www.toilasanatoorium.ee Privé, Moscow, Hollywood, BonBon,
www.veskisilla.ee Parliament, etc. There is always some-
thing different happening in places such
as Von Krahl, LoveSexMoney, Levist
Väljas (Out of Coverage), KuKu and
Cultural Factory Polymer. Trend maga-
zines praise Tallinn as a nightlife capi-
tal in the Nordic countries. Yet there are
plenty of possibilities for more peaceful
activities and family vacations as well as
space for wandering and meditating on
one’s own.

D ining places with distinctive char-


acter can also be found outside Tal­
linn. The taverns of Viitna 8 and Altja 5
NORTH ESTONIA

sculpture; in autumn 2005 the new in Paide 59 , the Jäneda gardening and where master craftsmen make beautiful
contemporary art museum KUMU will flower days 21 , the woman-carrying com- handicrafts and where sometimes work-
open its doors in Kadriorg. There is al- petition in Müü­riku 92 and watch bar- shops are organised for tourists. The fa-
ways something to see in the Tallinn Art rel riding at Por­kuni Lake 93 . Art lovers vourites of visitors to Estonia are woollen
Hall, Rotermann’s Salt Storage, and the will enjoy the Tal­linn Print Triennial, the sweaters with colourful patterns, linen
Museum of Applied Arts and Design. The Paide Limestone Festival 59 , the wood garments, items made of juniper wood
numerous boutiques and galleries in the sculpting festival Vam­bola Puu 51 , and and articles of wrought iron.

L
Old Town are works of art in their own the ceramics symposiums at Tohisoo ast but not least, one can visit the
right: here you can see exciting histor- Manor 94 . Kata­riina Guild in the Tal­linn motorcycle museum in Kurtna 41 ,
ical limestone interiors decorated with Old Town, Pura­viku Windmill’s Smithy the firefighting museum in Järva-Jaani
murals, mixing boldly the ultramodern 55 , Atla Manor ceramics workshop 95 ,
86 , the glass museum in Järvakandi 97 ,
and the archaic. Kandle­koda 96 in Rapla­maa and the the cement museum in Kunda 24 and the

E stonia’s most famous festival is un- smithy at Palmse manor 11 are places Estonian Broadcasting Museum 58 . When
questionably the National Song and in Tallinn, visit the History Museum in
Dance Festival which takes place every the Old Town or the Estonian Open
five years. Summer events include the Air Museum. Limestone and limestone
Tallinn Old Town Days and the Medieval products are on display in the Porkuni
Tallinn festival. There is also the Black Limestone Museum in Lääne-Virumaa 93
Nights Film Festival which takes place and at the Gildemann’s dolomite centre
in different places and at different times, in Jalase 98 in Raplamaa.
the jazz festival Jazzkaar, the new mu- WWW:
sic festival NYYD, the theatre festival www.opera.ee | www.concert.ee
www.ekm.ee | www.etdm.ee
Balto­scandal, the church music festi- www.evm.ee | www.eam.ee
val in Rapla 57 and the folklore festival www.svm.ee | www.bocca.ee
Viru Säru 11 . For a different experience www.restoranpegasus.ee | www.egoist.ee
www.troika.ee | www.restoran.ee/viitna
you can visit the Viking Days in Käsmu
7 , the Türi Flower Festival 58 , the Avi­

nurme Coopers’ Fair 91 , the Masters’ Fair


SOUTH ESTONIA

Tartu and Lake Peipsi tance from the city centre is Supilinn
(Soup town), a picturesque and rath-
macy buildings, a watermill, and an an-
cient churchyard. The Luua Arboretum

M entioned for the first time in 1030, er worn-out district of wooden hous- 6 houses around 750 different species

Tartu 1 is the centre of South es, with streets named after vegetables. of trees and bushes, while the garden of
Estonia and the country’s second-largest Other districts worth seeing are Karlova, Saare Manor 7 grows a wide selection
town. Its pride is the University of Tartu, Tammelinn and Tähtvere. of herbs. Voore­maa is the home for Elist­

A
founded in 1632, whose academic staff s you leave Tallinn towards Tartu vere Animal Park 8 that accommodates
has among other outstanding scholars in- make a stopover in Põltsamaa 2 , many local animals and birds.

F
cluded Karl Ernst von Baer, a pioneer of Estonia’s wine capital. The local wines ur ther east there is Lake Peipsi,
the theory of evolution and modern em- from apples and black currants are de- Europe’s fourth largest lake. The
bryology, and Juri Lotman, the founder licious and certainly worth tasting. This mainly Russian settlements on the shores
of structural semiotics. Tartu is also the small town has also a rose nursery and of the lake originate from religious refu-
birthplace of Estonian national literature seventeen bridges. Near county centre gees who settled there in the 17th and
Jõge­va 3 there are the ruins of the Laiu­
se citadel 4 , the winter residence of the
king of Sweden Karl XII during the Great
Northern War. A legend says that the
king personally planted a linden tree that
10 is still growing in the local churchyard
300 years later.

E ndla Nature Reserve belongs to the


list of wetlands of international impor-
tance under Ramsar Convention. Among
other things it offers boat trips, study
tours and an opportunity to climb the
Tartu top of an observation tower right next Onion beds at Lake Peipsi

and journalism, and it hosted the first na- to bog pools. Another interesting area is
18th centuries. They were the so-called
tional song festival in 1869. The town’s
Old Believers who opposed the official
most notable buildings are the main
teachings of the Orthodox Church. These
University building, St. John’s Church
people live in unique one street villag-
(1323), famous for its unique terracotta
es that stretch for miles. The museum in
statues, and the Town Hall, which dates
Kolkja 9 collects and preserves every-
back to the 18th century.
thing related to the Old Believers, and

W hen you take a walk in the dis-


tinctly classical old town don’t
miss the famous statue of kissing stu-
a local restaurant offers authentic fish
and onion dishes. In Raja 10 pay a visit
to the monastery of Old Believers or go
dents in front of the Town Hall or Tartu’s Laiuse
swimming or fishing. Not far from the
“Tower of Pisa”, the leaning building Vooremaa with its picturesque drumlins shores of Peipsi lies Alatskivi Castle 11
of the art museum by the Town Hall formed by glacial drift and eight lakes in the middle of a nice deer garden. Life
Square. Toomemägi, one of Tartu’s main full of fish. At the heart of Vooremaa seems to have stopped in Piirissaare 12 ,
landmarks, is an English-style park locat- you will find Palamuse 5 with its parish an island of fishermen and onion grow-
ed on the site of the former Estonian school museum, old vicarage and phar- ers. In summer you can get there by fer-
stronghold. Toomemägi is known for its Võhandu River
two bridges, the Devil’s Bridge and the
Angel’s Bridge, the Observatory, and
the ruins of Dome Church, which was
the largest cathedral in Livonia when it
was completed in the 15th century. At
the foot of the hill you will find Wilde
Pub with a cosy bookstore and the
bronze figures of two prominent writ-
ers: Estonian Eduard Vilde and British-
Irish Oscar Wilde.

T he dominant element in Tartu is the


Emajõgi River which divides the town
into two parts and which used to be
an important trade route in the
past centuries. Within
a walking dis-
SOUTH ESTONIA

ry from Tartu. On the way to Peipsi great


views open on the vast expanse of Ema­
jõe Suur­soo Nature Protection Area on
both banks of the Emajõgi River.
info:
Tartu Tourist Information Centre +372 744 2111
e-mail tartu@visitestonia.com
Palamuse Tourist Information Centre
+372 776 8520
e-mail palamuse@visitestonia.com
www:
www.tartu.ee | turism.tartumaa.ee
www.jogevamv.ee

Põlvamaa and
Setumaa
T he hilly landscapes of southern
Estonia are punctuated by large and
small lakes, rivers, valleys, meadows cov-
ered with scattered trees and forests, 43 metres), old mill sites, and beautiful hungry you can stop in Tiina’s Kitchen 11

swamps and bogs. South of Tartu in the meadows and forests. in Veriora 22 .
primeval valley of the Ahja River lies
Taevas­koda 13 with its 24 metres high
bare sandstone rocks that are 400 mil-
I n Räpina 17 one can find one of the
oldest paper plants in Europe (found-
ed in 1734) which is still working. There
I n the southeasternmost corner of
Estonia is Setumaa, a region character-
ised by an interesting mixture of Estonian
lion years old. Taevaskoda is a popular are more than 300 species of trees and and Russian cultures, which is inhabit-
destination for horseback riding. And if bushes in the park of classical Silla­pea ed by native Setus who speak their own
lucky, you may spot a rare kingfisher. In Manor. The county capital Põlva 18 is dialect, difficult to understand by oth-
the Kiid­järve-Taevas­koja holiday area na- a small, peaceful town which emerged er Estonians. Famous are Setu national
around the 16th century St. Mary’s
Church. Other tourist attractions include
the Intsikurmu song festival grounds, an
impressive community centre, and the
beach on the shore of an artificial lake.

M eenikunno Landscape Protection


Area 19 is a place to experience

Akste ants’ protection area


costumes, decorated with massive silver
ture lovers should check out the Akste 14 trappings, and a special style of singing
ants’ protection area, with its up to two called leelo. Peko, the Setu god of fer-
metres high anthills, and the Kiidjärve tility, belongs to an ancient religion that
water mill. In summertime it’s a pleas- predates Christianity, and there are ar-
ure to board the riverboat Lonny for a chaic elements in the Setu way of life
tour of the Sae­saare water reservoir. An even today. You can get a good overview
Meenikunno Landscape Protection Area
interesting hiking route and a watchtow- of the Setu culture at the Setu Kingdom
er help to discover Valge­soo Landscape the silence and tranquility of bogs, and Days, held annually in August, where
Protection Area 15 . to admire Valge­järv (White Lake) which among other things Peko’s representa-

T he awesome sandstone vaults of has the clearest water in Estonia, and tive on earth is elected.
the caves in Piusa 16 are worthy of
a church and are marked for safe ac-
cess. This is one of the largest hiber-
its sister Must­järv (Black Lake) with its
dark waters. There are meteorite craters
in Ilu­metsa 20 , the largest of which is
T he Setu Farm Museum in Värska 23
has many exhibits showing centu-
ries of farmhouse
nation locales for bats in northeast- called the Hell’s Grave and is 80 me- architecture, old
ern Europe, which is why the caves are tres across. Not far away are the Devil’s tools, and samples
closed in winter. In the Piusa pottery, Grave and the Ghost’s Grave which, ac- of handicraft, and
located in the former railway station, cording to the locals, are shortcuts to also serves tradi-
visitors can try their hand at ceramics. Hell. Those with an interest in ecologi- tional Setu food.
Further south is the protection area of cal tourism should visit Süva­havva (Deep Yo u c a n d i n e ,
the Piusa River primeval valley that fea- Grave) Nature Farm 21 , which organises bathe and, for ex-
tures huge exposed sandstone rocks (in- tours to the Võhandu River, and helps ample, play ten-
cluding Härma Wall, Estonia’s highest at you get to know local herbs. If you are nis at Hir ve­mäe
SOUTH ESTONIA

Holiday Centre. Värska has a spa well-known for its cura- Estonian writer who composed our
tive mud and mineral waters. In Obinitsa 24 you will find national epic “Kalevi­poeg” in it while
the Seto Muuseumitarõ museum that presents the way Setus he was a town doctor. Other tour-
lived and worked from 1920 to 1940. The Obinitsa artificial ist attractions are the beaches by
lake, adorned by the statue of the Setu Mother of Song, is the lakes of Tamula and Kubija, a
good for swimming, fishing and boat rides. The Setu museum hunters’ and fishers’ settlement dat-
in Saatse 25 has more than 20,000 examples of Setu culture. ing back to the Stone Age, and the
There are also many interesting small village chapels called Meego­mäe motocross track.
tsässon in Setumaa. And be prepared for surprises in Setumaa.
It is, for example, a venue for the
annual meeting of the Estonian
I n the Haanja
Upland the
traveller will find the highest peak of
Volkswagen Beetle Club. the generally low and flat Estonia – Suur
info: Muna­­mägi (318 m) 29 , the deepest body
Põlva Tourist Information Centre
+372 799 5001 of water – Rõuge Suur­järv (38 m) 30 , the
e-mail polva@visitestonia.com deepest primeval valley Küti­­org (70 m)
Räpina Tourist Information Centre 31 with a downhill skiing resort, and the
+372 796 4810
e-mail rapina@visitestonia.com Välla­­mäe bog 32 with the thickest layer
WWW: of peat (17 m) in Esto­nia. Magnificent
www.southestonia.info
12 views open on the varied southern Esto­
www.polvamaa.ee | www.polvamaale.ee
www.hot.ee/setotour nian landscape from the tower on Suur
Rõuge Church
www.hot.ee/setomuuseum Muna­mägi. Haanja Nature Park, created
to protect the local landscapes and traditions, attracts visitors
as a holiday-making destination in summer; one can enjoy the
Võrumaa and Valgamaa colours of nature in autumn and go skiing in winter.

W hen in Vastseliina 26 one should visit the ruins of the


14th century episcopal castle which once used to be a
popular destination for pilgrimages. Visitors are welcome to
I n Rõuge 30 you will find a church harmonising with the
surrounding beautiful landscapes. In the vicinity there is a
unique complex of seven lakes, connected to one another,
eat and relax at Piiri Tavern, the lo- and Nightingale Valley that echoes
cation of which was printed on a with nightingale song in spring. In
road map as early as in 1695. This Tindiorg a traveller can admire the
is also the starting point for trips to smart water pumps called water
the Piusa primeval valley and col- rams that are powered by the flow-
ourful fairs are held here in summer. ing water itself, swing on the village
From the 202-metre Meremäe Hill swing or visit the ostrich farm. You
27 nearby you can get a good over- can have dinner in the Saarsilla farm
view of the surrounding landscape café in Rõuge, fish and grill trout in
and in clear weather even the gold- Tindiorg or at Veski Farm in Saarlase
en cupolas of the Orthodox church- Village. In the Hinni Canyon 33 near
Hinni Canyon es in Petseri on the Russian side are Kahrila Lake there are impressive Taagepera Castle
visible. Võrumaa, with its hilly land- sandstone rocks. In the open-air mu-
scapes, primeval valleys and forests, has always been consid- seum in Mõniste 34 you can see authentic old farmhouses and
ered one of the most beautiful parts of Estonia. One of the try weaving on the handloom, look for the vein of water with
characteristic features of Võru 28 , the county centre, is its in- a magic rod, chop wood or show your whole family around in
teresting wooden architecture. One of the modest wooden a horsecarriage. A scenic landscape can be enjoyed on a bike
houses is now the museum of Fr. R. Kreutzwald, the famous or on foot also in Paganamaa (Devil’s Land) near the Latvian
View from Suur Munamägi
border; a legend has it that its valleys
were formed from the footprints of the
Devil fleeing from a thunderstorm.

E stonia’s smallest, Karula National


Park (visitors’ centre in Ähi­järve 35 )
is a mixture of meadows, forests, lakes
and bogs. Here you can admire rare
plants and with a bit of luck encounter
a black stork, a fish hawk, or an otter.
Metsa­moori Family Park in Mähkli 36 ,
consisting of ten holiday farms, and the
Poku­maa hiking trail in Vi­se­la 37 are a
real treat for families with children. Near
Ur­vas­te 38 you will find the 700 years
SOUTH ESTONIA

old Tamme-Lauri oak, the largest tree in


Estonia. On the slope of the picturesque
primeval valley stands the 14th-centu-
ry church in Urvaste which is the oldest
preserved building in Võrumaa and as
a basilica unique among Estonian coun-
try churches.

V alga 39 , the county capital, is actual-


ly a twin-town with Valka in Latvia
and they are split in two by the bor-
der. North from Valga towards Otepää
lies Sangaste Castle 40 , a major exam-
ple of the Historicist style in the Baltic
States, with a remarkable park with nu-
Meadow in Soomaa
merous unusual plant species. There is
also a hotel and restaurant in the castle.
Equally impressive is Taagepera Castle 41
O tepää 48 is the the most well-known
winter sports centre in the Baltics
and the “winter capital” of Estonia. It got
in magic forces should pay a visit to the
so-called “energy pillar” in Otepää.
situated in the middle of primeval for- info:
its name (“bear’s head”) after the pecu- Võru Tourist Information Centre +372 782 1881
ests which is considered one of the fin- e-mail voru@visitestonia.com 13
liarly shaped hill, onto which was built
est examples of the Art Nouveau man- Valga Tourist Information Centre
the first known brick castle in Estonia in +372 766 1699
or houses in Europe. Today the castle e-mail valga@visitestonia.com
1224. The Estonian national blue-black-
accommodates a hotel-conference cen- Otepää Tourist Information Centre
and-white tricolor was blessed for the +372 766 1200
tre where one can enjoy a health pro-
first time in the local St. Mary’s Church e-mail otepaa@visitestonia.com
gramme focusing on different methods WWW:
on 4 June, 1884. There is the Estonian
of massage or go pheasant hunting. Its www.southestonia.info | www.vorulinn.ee
Flag Museum now in Ote­pää pastor’s www.visitvoru.ee | www.haanjamaa.ee
“little brother” Holdre Castle 42 has been
mansion. Ote­pää Nature Park is a high- www.karularahvuspark.ee
built in the same style.
ly appreciated holiday area comprising a
landscape of rolling hills and lakes, ro-
mantic winding village roads and small
Viljandi and Soomaa
rivers. Beautiful views open from the ob-
servation towers on top of 217-metre T he county centre Viljandi 53 is the hilli-
est town in Estonia with lots of green-
ery and ancient trees, winding streets and
Kuutse­mägi 49 , Hari­mägi 50 and Väike
Muna­mägi 51 hills. In wintertime the area the ruins of the powerful order castle
is a paradise for skiers, snow mobile rid- built between the 13th and 16th centu-
ers and to everyone enjoying snow: there ries. Organ concerts are held in St. John’s
are lit slalom slopes equipped with ele- Church (1466); worth seeing are the Town
vators, innumerable cross-country tracks, Hall, the water and watch tower as well
the skiing centres in Teh­van­di and Kuutse­ as the suspended bridge, the symbol of
mäe and the ski museum in Otepää. the town. The old pharmacy building now
houses a museum introducing the histo-
O tepää also boasts the most beau-
tiful lake in Estonia – Pühajärv 52
(Holy Lake), featuring in many artists’
ry of Vil­jandi. There is a nice beach, boat
rentals and sports grounds at the scenic
Vil­jandi Lake. In town one will find cosy
paintings. In summertime Pühajärv and
cafés and restaurants; in Uue­veski Holiday
around one hundred other lakes in the

I n the vicinity of Tõrva 43 , a miniature


garden town and historical place of tar-
area offer various activities ranging from
rowing and paddle boat rides to fish-
Centre one can catch trout and prepare
one’s own meal.

F
burning, are the Helme caves 44 and ruins ing and sunbathing. There are also tennis or nature lovers the main attraction
of an order castle, Orja­kivi (Slave’s Stone) courts and hiking trails as well as a soon in Viljandimaa is certainly Soomaa
and a sacrificial well where young girls opening golf course. Those who believe National Park. In spring and autumn,
are said to have sacrificed beads to pre- Viljandi sometimes also in rainy summers, the
serve their beauty. Today there is a café rivers overflow their banks and flood
in the old smithy. On the bottom of Valg­ the fields, forests and pastures so that
järv Lake further south 45 one can see the the water level may rise up to six metres
remains of a 1,500 years old pile dwell- above the lowest level. Yet the floods in
ing. One can go bathing and simply enjoy Soomaa are not a natural disaster but
nature both at Valgjärv Lake and Tündre the area’s characteristic feature and a
Lake 46 . In Jõgeveste 47 one can visit spectacle for tourists. The locals’
the mausoleum of Barclay de Tolly, the main vehicle at the time
Russian general in the Napoleonic Wars.
SOUTH ESTONIA

of floods is the boat and in terested in plants. The market town of Suure-Jaani 66 boasts
some places also the archaic St. John’s fortified church that dates back to the 14th century,
haabjas – a boat hewn from a nice park and an artificial lake. Three kilometres away there
the trunk of one single big as- is the Lõhavere stronghold hill 67 , the home base of Lembitu,
pen tree. Soo­maa is the hab- the legendary leader of the Estonian freedom-fighters in the
itat for bear, lynx and wolf; war with the Teutonic Order.
one can encounter rare orchids info:
and flocks of migrating birds Viljandi Tourist Information Centre +372 433 0442
e-mail viljandi@visitestonia.com
resting on the water. Boating
WWW:
on the rivers one will notice www.viljandi.ee | www.viljandimaa.ee | www.soomaa.ee | www.soomaa.com
meadows covered with scat-
tered trees and virgin forests
abundant with different plant
Things to do...
D
species. Thirteen different hik- etailed information on hikes on foot or by bicycle can be
Pilistvere ing and nature study trails, ob- obtained from tourist information centres. Canoeers’ fa-
servation towers, hiking huts and 10 camping sites help to vourites are Soomaa National Park and the Ahja and Võ­han­
discover the secrets of the national park. More detailed in- du rivers with their old water mill sites, rapids and high sand-
formation can be obtained from the visitors’ centre in Kõrtsi- stone banks. After the trip it is refreshing to enjoy sauna and
14
Tõra­maa 54 . Exciting activities will surprise adventurers in the organic food on a tourist farm. Most lakes and rivers, including
Karus­kose holiday centre 55 : beaver safaris, overnight stay in Lake Peipsi although most of its shoreline is filled with reeds,
the “owl’s nest” on top of a big linden tree, the floating sauna are suitable for bathing. There are also plenty of small beaches
Püha­müristus (Good Heavens) and of course boat trips. One created at artificial lakes. Horseback riding, both indoors and
may have a chance to see the making of haabjas and even outdoors, horse sledge picnics by torchlight in wintry woods
hold an ax in one’s hand. Sookolli Söögituba (Swamp Bogy’s with mulled wine and snacks – all this is offered by Timmo
Dining Room) serves characteristic local meals based on reci- Stables near Põlva 68 and several tourist farms.
pes dating from the grandmothers’ time. In Lubjassaare 56 one
can visit a farm musem, the birthplace of Johann Köler, a pi-
oneer of the nation’s professional art; there are also a camp-
S kiing fans can participate in the Tartu Cross-Country
Marathon, belonging to the Worldloppet series. Its 60-
kilometre track from Otepää 48 to Elva can be cycled through
ing site and swings. The Ruunaraipe dunes 57 nearby are the
on mountain bikes in summer. Various activities are offered
remains of the ancient seashore. The Kurekiiva farm museum
by Junsi Holiday Centre near Kõpu 69 including ATV trips, ri-
of taxidermy in Sandra Village 58 displays local animals and
fle shooting, motor and canoe trips to Soomaa and “blood-
birds as well as horns and skulls of wild animals.
less hunting” with the camera. The water festival and inflat-

V iljandimaa borders on Võrtsjärv, Estonia’s largest inland


water body, and a popular destination for fishermen who
catch eel, pike and bream here. The southern part of the coun-
able boat race in Rõuge 30 are fun for everyone. You can go
Making the local dugout boat (haabjas) in Soomaa

ty attracts visitors with its scenic landscape and sights of in-


terest. In Heim­tali there is a museum of regional history 59
with a large collection of Estonian handicraft and an interest-
ing vodka distillery with four towers. Karksi-Nuia 60 is a nice
small town by the Halliste primeval valley; there are ruins of a
stronghold, a church with a leaning steeple and a winery. One
will find several bathing places and picnic sites in the neigh-
bourhood. Nearby in Allaste Village there is the Mägiste spruce
tree whose trunk has 13 forks. Õisu 61 has a beautiful 18th
century manor complex and an old smithy open for tourists.
The 15th century Halliste 62 church has a unique black ceil-
ing and a modern altar painting and is considered one of the
prettiest churches in Estonia.

I n Olustvere it is worth visiting the tourist centre in the man-


or house 63 , the collection of wooden horses, and a park
with majestic alleys. The Pilist­vere memorial 64 to the victims
of the Communist genocide is a place for a quiet stopover. By
bringing field stones to the base of the large cross Estonians
commemorate the tens of thousands of compatriots who were
deported to Siberia. The date carved in the wall stone of the
steeple of Pilistvere Church – 1222 – testifies to the begin-
ning of the missionary work of the Cistertians in this area.
The Energy Farm in Vihi Village 65 grows herbs
and organises special tours for those in-
SOUTH ESTONIA

pheasant hunting at Taagepera Castle the Werner and Wilde cafés, the night- sive overview of Estonian history and cul-
41 , while the main organiser of hunting club Atlantis right next to the River ture is provided by the Estonian National
tourism is the State Forest Management Ema­jõgi, and a number of other cosy or Museum and of art, by the Art Museum.
Centre RMK. trendy places. In Tammekännu Holiday Quality handicraft can be found at
Centre near Põl­va in Mam­maste 68 one
I n Võrumaa, families with children Antoniuse Guild. The grand open-air per-
should certainly visit the Metsa­moori can try the menu based on thousand- formances of Vanemuine Theatre in sum-
Family Park in Mähkli 36 , and the Poku­ year-old recipes and before that enjoy mer have become a tradition. The well-
maa hiking trail in Visela 37 . In Nursi 70 in activities in the nature. Modern and yet known expression in Estonia, “the Tartu
Midri­ait you can try your weaving skills.
July and August are the best months
for picking berries and wild mushrooms
in the woods with the help of a good
guidebook. This very popular tradition
in Estonia is almost forgotten in Western
Europe but you only have to compare
the taste of the wild blackberry to that
of the cultivated blackberry, and you will
see the difference!

I
15
f you are looking for something spe-
cial visit the Sleep Centre in Kubija
71 to check the quality of your sleep,

Lake Music Festival at Leigo

characteristically Estonian dishes are spirit”, signifies the academic-bohemian


served by many taverns, restaurants and atmosphere and the inexplicable “some-
pubs. Tourist farms are also known for thing else”, which you simply have to ex-
their excellent food. In Setumaa in south- perience yourself.
Smoke sauna in South Estonia

I
east Estonia try baked potatoes with sau- n summer there is an impressive open-
to cure insomnia and generally improve
erkraut, cottage cheese and raisin bread. air Lake Music Festival at Leigo 72 near
your health. A wide range of medical
Wash it down with mead and the local Ote­pää. The eventful summers in Vil­jan­di
and recreational services is available in
white whiskey called “hansa” to the back- 53 culminate with the Old Music Festival
Püha­järve 52 spa. While you are in South
ground of live music. Local organic food and the traditional music festival Vil­jan­di
Estonia, try out the smoke sauna where
products and outdoor grilling are held Folk. The Kondas Centre exhibits excit-
it is customary to beat oneself with ju-
in high esteem here. Estonians value es- ing paintings by Paul Kon­das, the best-
niper, nettle or birch twigs, whereafter
pecially highly domestic milk and meat known naïve artist in Estonia. The most
you can spoil yourself with delicious lo-
products, rye and barley bread. In Tartu important cultural event in Võru 28 is the
cal beer and food. Another possibility is
visit the riverside vegetable and flower international folklore festival accompa-
to combine canoeing with a barrel sau-
market, even just for fun or to see col- nied by a handicraft fair. In the Bagpipe
na experience: it is a giant wooden bar-
ourful country types. Farm in Rii­daja 73 you can listen to a live
rel that is filled with water heated by
an underwater stove. Karus­kose Holiday
Centre in Soo­maa 55 attracts visitors with T artu 1 has a lively cultural life all
year round where the youthful high-
bagpipe ensemble and see how this in-
strument is made. The farm serves tra-
ditional Estonian food, and don’t be sur-
its floating sauna called Pühamüristus
(Good Heavens); a similar one can be prised to find there also a small airstrip.
found in Paun­küla Holiday Centre. At the Helle­nurme water mill 74 visitors
can see how grain is turned into flour and
WWW:
www.kagureis.ee | www.suusaliit.ee taste oven-warm bread. You can walk in
www.junsi.ee | www.taageperaloss.ee the beautiful garden in Kaa­siku Farm 75
www.pokumaa.ee
www.kaikakant.ee/metsamoor
and visit their lace chamber; Lusika Farm
www.kubija.ee | www.pyhajarve.com 76 has a lovely rose garden. In the mu-

seum of regional history in Heimtali 59

...and places to go lights are the Hansa days and the stu-
textile artist Anu Raud has assembled a
complete collection of Estonian nation-

I n Tartu there is Püssirohukelder (Gun­ dents’ days with the relay race in car- al handicrafts; there are knitted toy ani-
powder Cellar) with its impressive inte- nival costumes and the inflatable boat mals with traditional patterns on
rior, the restaurant-club Maailm (World), race on the River Ema­jõgi. A comprehen- display.
SOUTH ESTONIA

16

F or a better understanding of Estonian


contemporary history one should vis-
Läänemaa
it the Forest Brother’s farm in Vastse-
Roosa Village 77 which restores the
scene of freedom fighting in Estonia af-
H aapsalu 1 was granted the rights
of town in 1279 and nowadays it
is the administrative centre of Lääne
ter World War II when thousands of men County. Its main attraction is the epis-
and women went into hiding in forests copal castle that today accommodates
and swamps, not being able to accept a museum and a café, and hosts plays
the Soviet occupation. One can spend Koluvere Castle
the night in an ascetic underground bun-
ker; the local theatre troupe revives a
Võru Folklore Festival
piece of history – a battle between the
freedom fighters and the Russian secu-
rity forces.
WWW:
www.vanemuine.ee | www.erm.ee
www.tammekanuu.ee | www.leigo.ee
www.folk.ee | www.werro.ee/folkloor
WEST ESTONIA

and concerts in its courtyard. At full


moon in August a translucent figure of
a woman – the White Lady – appears in
the window of the baptistery of Dome
Church, the largest one-nave church in
the Baltics. The old city centre is char-
acterised by a miniature town hall and
romantic wooden dwelling houses. By
the seaside Promenade stands Kuursaal,
one of the finest wooden buildings in
Estonia, which houses a summer restau-
rant. The first mud spa opened its doors
in Haapsalu in 1825. Haapsalu was the
favourite holiday spot for the family of
Russian czars and the famous composer Promenade in Haapsalu
Peter Tchaikovsky among others. Today,
people are attracted to Haapsalu by its
historic and maritime ambience and by
the Paralepa beach.
M atsalu National Park is a real paradise for bird watchers:
it is an important migration stopover and nesting place
for birds. 275 species of birds, 49 species of fish and 47 spe- 17

H aapsalu was a source of inspiration cies of mammals have been recorded here. More information
for Ilon Wik­land who grew up here on hiking trails, bird-watching towers and boat rides is available
and later illustrated the children’s books in the centre of the national park in Penijõe 7 . Characteristic
of the world famous Swedish writer Ast­ of Mari­metsa Nature Protection Area 8 is a bog with numer-
r id L ind­gren. ous pools, sand dunes covered with pine forest, a boardwalk
From the 13th hiking route and observation towers.
centur y un-
til World War
II there was a
P eople interested in history should visit the well-preserved
Koluvere Order Castle 9 , medieval churches in Kulla­maa
10 and Ri­da­la 11 , and the museum of local history in Li­hu­la

large Swedish Manor House 12 . There are vast expanses of land in Lääne­maa
community in and it is a nice area for just wandering around in the fields of
West Estonia, junipers or at the seaside.
which ­ explains
why so many
locations in
Haapsalu Castle the area have
Swedish names.
To get a glimpse of the culture and histo-
ry of the people called Coastal Swedes,
you can visit special museums in Haap­
salu and Saa­re (Lyck­holm) 2 .

T he landscape in Noarootsi is dotted with low lakes and


thickets of reeds – tens of thousands of birds touch down
here in their spring migration. One will find nice beaches in
Öster­by 3 and by the Roos­ta Resort 4 and can visit Noa­
rootsi Tavern 5 in Pürk­si for a meal. The island of Vorm­si 6
with its juniper fields, seaside meadows, erratic boulders and
lighthouses is best toured on a bicycle or on foot. The grave-
info:
yard of Vorm­si Church (1632) is famous for numerous an- Tourist Information Centre: +372 473 3248
cient circular crosses. e-mail haapsalu@visitestonia.com
WWW:
www.aiboland.ee | www.matsalu.ee | www.eoy.ee

Hiiumaa
H iiumaa is famous for its virgin nature, picturesque coast-
al landscapes and a peaceful pace of life. Already on
the mainland, in Rohu­küla Harbour waiting for the ferry to
Helter­maa a peculiar peaceful and pleasant feeling will
sink in.
WEST ESTONIA

T he county centre Kärdla 13 is a


cosy little town with small wood-
Saaremaa
en houses, beautiful gardens and a
nice beach. Most of Hiiumaa is cov-
ered with forests; the Kõpu Lighthouse
E stonia’s largest island Saare­maa is a beloved destination
for hiking, holiday-making or for just enjoying sea breeze
and beautiful sights. After taking a ferry from Virtsu you arrive
14 – the symbol of Hiiu­maa – rising first in Muhu­maa. There is Muhu Church 25 in the Gothic style
high above treetops attracts the eye (1267), Koguva Village 26 with its old farm buildings, stone
from a great distance. This impos- fences and draw wells, and Pädaste Manor 27 which offers
ing structure was erected in the first half of the 16th cen- luxury accommodations and top-of-the-line cuisine. A working
tury and is the world’s third-oldest operating lighthouse. The windmill can be found in Linnuse Village 28 and an ostrich farm
windy, shingled beach of the Ristna Peninsula 15 has made nearby. The atmosphere and nature on islets such as Kõinastu,
it a popular surfing centre. Luidja 16 is famous for its beau- Või­laid and Suurelaid are also worth discovering.

T
tiful beach and Reigi 17 for its he sea dam
church, known from “The Vicar across the
of Reigi”, a novel by Aino Kallas. Strait of Väike Väin
Near Kärdla is Ristimägi (Cross takes you to Saare­
Hill) 18 with thousands of cross- maa where you
es made by visitors from rocks, will probably want
18
leaves or branches. At the tip of to see Kuressaare,
the Tahkuna Peninsula 19 there the island’s capital
is a fine lighthouse and a me- first. Short detours
morial to the children who per- along the way are
ished in the disaster of the fer- certainly reward-
ry Estonia; nearby are ruins of ing. In Pöide 29 towers a massive 13th century fortified church
Kõpu Lighthouse
military installations from vari- and not far away you will find Ka­hut­si earthen stronghold
ous periods of time. The shoreline of the peninsula is ideal and a boarded trail in the Koi­gi Bog. As imposing as Pöi­de is
for long walks in search of inner calm. Valja­la Church 30 , the oldest one in Saare­maa with its unique

T he oldest place of worship on the island is Pühalepa Church


20 with a unique stone pulpit. The splendid Suuremõisa

Castle is close by. Driving towards Käina one passes the Vaemla
frescos. Close by are the remains of Valjala Stronghold that
was the last in Estonia to surrender to the German Teutonic
Knights in 1227.
wool factory 21 where one can watch the work of centuries-
Muhu Church
old machinery, buy
local products and
re freshment s in
the café. The nar-
row Sääre peninsu-
la in the southwest
of Kassari Island 22
stretches far into
the sea; with its
warm coastal wa- Sääre Peninsula
ter it is a great
sunbathing and bathing spot. Other places worth visiting in
Kassari are the Hiiumaa Museum and the unique reed-roofed
chapel. Hiking on the Orjaku 23 nature trail one can observe
a host of birds in the Bay of Käina. Up to 10 metres high ju-
nipers in Nasva 24 are a must
Tahkuna see. Tough and aromatic juni-
per wood and products craft-
ed from it are the trademark
of the Estonian islands. Both
Kassari and Käina offer plenty
of places for dining and stay-
ing the night.
info:
Tourist Information Centre:
+372 462 2232
e-mail hiiumaa@visitestonia.com
WWW:
www.saared.ee | www.hiiumaa.ee
turism.moonsund.ee
WEST ESTONIA

19

Kuressaare

N ear Kõljala you will find the round-


shaped Kaali Lake 31 , set in a me-
teorite crater and, a rare natural object
in dining and entertainment spots, sev-
eral high-standard health spas, and a
yachting harbour. South of Kuressaare
around 100 small islands. Tens of thou-
sands of waterfowl migrate through or
nest in the national park, and most of
in the context of the whole world. The lies the protected Loode oak wood, and the Baltic grey seals come to breed in
“space rock” that hit the Kaali area only further down the Sõrve Peninsula where Innarahu Reserve. Vilsandi Island can
a few thousand years ago is the last in World War II some of the heaviest be reached by boat from the harbour
known meteorite to hit a densely pop- battles in Estonia took place. of Papi­saare or if the sea level is low, by

Koguva Village Kaali Lake Limestone Cliff at Panga

ulated area. This is why it has shaped


not only the local landscape but the my-
thology as well. The “Kaali catastrophy”,
I n northwest Saaremaa near Kihelkonna
you will find the Mihkli Farm Museum
33 . What makes it unique is the fact that
walking across through the water. Access
to the nesting areas of birds and animals
is limited to tourists. A beautiful view on
comparable to a nuclear blast, has in- the items on display in this fully pre- the islands opens also from the peninsula
spired writers and historians (including served farmhouse complex have been of Hari­laid 35 , whose tip is adorned with
Lennart Meri, President of Estonia in made on the farm over six generations. a tilted lighthouse. Nature-lovers will en-
1992–2001) to link the local “big bang” Loo­na Manor 34 houses the centre of Vil­ joy a visit to Viidu­mäe Nature Protection
to the roots of Fenno-Ugric mythology san­di National Park which encompasses Area, the centre of which is in Audaku 36 .
or the Phaethon’s flight and fall in Greek There is a museum that has an exhibition
mythology. of rare and protected plants.

T he “brand” of Kuressaare 32 is a very


well preserved 14th century episco-
pal castle which houses the Museum of
O ne of the attractions in Saaremaa is
the steep and impressive limestone
cliff on the northern coast at Ninase 37
Saaremaa. Visitors of the castle can order and Panga 38 where it rises 21 metres
medieval dinner and enjoy the view over above the sea level. Culturally and histor-
the town and the sea opening from the ically interesting are the windmills
tower café. The old town, built between at Angla 39 ; the medieval,
the 17th and 19th centuries, abounds rustic Karja church
WEST ESTONIA

camping in Saaremaa. Those looking for Pulli Village. The holiday centre in Silla
an “island of their own” can take a boat 54 on the Reiu River with a swimming

from Kuressaare to Abruka Island 46 . spot and a small open air stage. In Mihkli
info: there is a church 55 built in 1226, where
Tourism Information Centre: +372 453 3120 the famous chronicler Latvian Henrik
e-mail kuressaare@visitestonia.com
once served as a priest, and a protect-
WWW:
www.saaremaa.ee | www.kuressaare.ee ed oak forest. The Soontagana earth-
www.muinas.ee/ecp/kaali/en en stronghold 56 that lies on a high
www.saaremaamuuseum.ee | www.vigalasass.com
Pärnu beach bog island; hiking trails and an obser-
40 without a steeple is rich in unique vation tower nearby. A unique railway
hewn sculptures and frescos. In Laugu
Village 41 there is a glassblower’s work-
Summer capital Pärnu museum in Lavassaare 57 ; a hiking cen-
tre for bicyclists in Oidrema Manor 58 ;

P
shop where you can watch masters at ärnu 47 is a popular summer desti- Nigula Nature Reserve with its centre in
work and even try out their craft. Near nation, a seaside resort, and a town Vanajärve 59 .

A
Triigi Harbour 42 you will find the arbore- with a lively cultural life. Its shady parks, must see destination in West Estonia
tum and spelling and ritual grounds of a beautiful sandy beach and quality restau- is the island of Kihnu 60 attracting
famous Estonian healer Vigala Sass. From rants, cafés, spas and nightclubs help you travellers with its virgin nature and tran-
Triigi you can take a ferry to Hiiumaa; recharge your batteries whether you trav- quillity. In Kihnu the centuries-old tra-
20 boat trips in the Strait of Väike Väin start el with a family or look for adventures on ditions are still part of everyday life –
from Orissaare Harbour 43 . The interest- your own. For a change one can visit the the local dialect, national costumes and
ing ruins of Maasi Order Castle 44 are local theatre, museums, numerous con- handicrafts, dances and songs. The area
also worth a visit. of Kihnu culture has been included in the
UNESCO World Heritage List. The ad-
venture begins as soon as you board a
ferry or a fishing boat to the island.
info:
Pärnu Tourism Information Centre
+372 447 3000
e-mail parnu@visitestonia.com
WWW:
www.parnu.ee | www.pernau.ee | www.nigula.ee

Things to do...
T here are many picturesque seashores,
varied landscapes as well as hiking

Kihnu girls

O ne of the popular holiday spots is


Lake Karujärv 45 . There are several
beaches by the seaside and even more
certs and exhibitions. A dedicated visi-
tor to the summer capital Pärnu is like-
ly to have neither time nor mood to go
places with a sea-view for walking and to the countryside. Yet some landmarks
of Estonian culture and plenty of sites
of natural heritage in Pärnu County are
worth mentioning. and nature study routes in West Estonia.
Here you can go bird or game watching
V ändra 48 and its neighbourhood
which was the home of a number
of important figures in the history of
or looking for rare orchids. A good over-
view of the surroundings is provided by
Estonian culture; the Kurgja farm mu- marked bicycle routes, and bikes can be
seum 49 ; Tõstamaa 50 Islets Protection rented in lots of places. You can always
Area; Tori Stud Farm 51 and the part stop on your way and have a look at
of Soomaa National Park belonging to how the locals live. Although Estonian
Pärnu County. Viisireiu Watermill 52 country people are not always open and
which is still in operation in Tali par- talkative right away, they are generally
ish; the museum introducing the histo- friendly and helpful.
ry of local wool industry in Sindi 53 , and
not far from it the oldest, over 9,000
years old settlement site in Estonia in
T hose who feel comfortable at sea can
contact Saarte Loodusmatkad who
organise sea canoe trips to the islands
WEST ESTONIA

of Vilsandi 61 and Abruka 46 and to the Muhu Island has won international ac- the summer the streets and the open-air
islets surrounding Hiiumaa. Many tourist claim among gourmets. In Haapsalu you stages of Episcopal Castle are filled with
farms rent out rowing and paddle boats will find the Kuursaal summer café and folk music, opera and rock. The White
for shorter trips and offer fishing as well several unique restaurants in the old Lady Days and the Medieval Haapsalu
as bird and game watching services. For town. Kuressaare welcomes its visitors festivals add a bit of mystery with a fla-
those interested in military history there with dozens of cosy and exciting dining vour of history. The best souvenir is a
are special tours in Tahkuna 19 . Between and entertainment spots. The restaurant hand-woven woollen kerchief or shawl
Pärnu and Ikla one will find beautiful in the Liilia Hotel in Käina 67 is consid- with a complicated pattern which are
beaches and wild berry forests. ered to be the best in Hiiumaa. An inter- known as Haapsalu shawls or “miracles

L ots of tourist farms offer horse- esting restaurant is in the former vodka in lace”. Modern art is displayed at the
back riding and carriage rides. In distillery of Kõrgessaare 68 Manor. local Linnagalerii.
Tori 51 one can learn about the histo-
ry of horse breeding in the Stud Farm
founded in 1856. In Tihuse Riding Farm
I n smaller rural villages one will find
both quite ordinary dining places as
well as taverns and cafés with unique
S aaremaa is famed for its opera days,
held in the courtyard of Kuressaare
Castle and for the Saare­maa Waltz
62 in Hellamaa on the island of Muhu and characteristic cuisine, interesting Festival which has become a com-
interiors and colour ful local visitors. mon friendly festivity of the two kin-
In tourist farms you can order simple, dred peoples – Estonians and Finns.
organic farm food, in coastal villages The programme includes a competition
smoked fish. “Made in Saaremaa” is a for young talents attended by popular 21
strong brand in Estonia, be it smoked stars from both countries. The Kures­
ham, vodka, or spring water. saare Sea Days Festival is an enjoyable

you can plough the field with a horse


and do other farmwork. Families with
children should certainly visit the Raja
Farm mini-zoo 63 in Sigaste Village in
Pärnumaa where you can see and make
friends with miniature pigs, cows, goats
and other tiny animals.

G olf players are welcome at the golf


courses in Haapsalu 64 and Valge­
ranna 65 . Roosta 4 , Linnumäe 14 and
Reiu 54 holiday centres offer a variety
of activities. There are six spa hotels in
Pärnu 47 offering the best medical and Midsummer Celebrations in Saaremaa
recreational services. The best known
types of treatment are mud baths, mas-
sage, laser and paraffin treatments, and
T here are several ar t galleries in
Pärnu, including the Museum of
New Art and the Estonian Lithographic
family event focusing around sea-related
themes and activities, visits to yachts and
sailing trips, sea shanteys, and an open-
salt and cold therapy. Other larger spas
Centre which introduces visitors to var- air market. While there are also many
are Rüütli, Meri and Saaremaa Valss in
ious exciting graphic techniques. Pärnu great events taking place in Hiiu­maa, let
Kuressaare 32 and Fra Mare in Haapsalu
also hosts the reputable International it stay, first and foremost, a haven of
1 . The Port of Pärnu also offers yacht
Documentary and Anthropology Film peace and quiet!
rentals and pleasure trips on the sea.

T
Festival. The David Oistrakh Festival in he Estonian Railway Museum in Lavas­
WWW:
midsummer brings to Pärnu top-class saare 57 is the third-largest of its kind
www.roosta.ee | www.sanatoorium.ee
www.framare.ee | www.miniloomad.ee musicians and exciting new works from in Europe and impresses visitors with its
all over the world. There are also the extensive display of rolling stock, a func-
... and places to go Pärnu Opera Days and Klaaspärlimäng
Festival, as well as several other musical
tioning railway line and a museum train.

T here are many excellent places to eat events that cater for many preferences
in Pär­nu such as the luxurious Am­men­ and tastes. And last but not least, there
de Villa with its French-Mediterranean is Endla Theatre with its interesting pro-
cuisine, Postipoiss Tavern specialising in gramme of plays.

H
Slavic cuisine, the restaurant in Ranna­ aapsalu is known for its Old Music
hotell and Kuld Lõvi Tavern 66 just out- Festival, Violin Festival and the
side of the town. Pädaste Manor 27 on Blues Festival in August. Throughout
WEST ESTONIA

There is also a railway museum in Haap­


salu 1 . The Mihkli Farm Museum 33 in
Saaremaa and the Soera Farm Museum
in Hiiumaa in Palade 69 give an insight
into the everyday life of Estonian country
folk in the past. In the latter one can go
to a genuine smoke sauna, taste home-
made beer and fish and listen to accor-
dion music. In the Kurgja farm museum
49 in Pärnu­maa the land is farmed and

animals bred in the traditional, centu-


ries-old way.
WWW:
www.padaste.ee
www.ammende.ee
www.kuldlovi.ee
www.operadays.ee
www.ee/eesti-mr

The Republic of Estonia


in a nutshell: Good to know
Official name: the Republic of Estonia Time zone: Eastern European
(Eesti Vabariik in Estonian). (GMT +02:00).
Area: 45,227 sq km (around 10% of the territory is comprised Average temperatures: July be-
of 1,520 islands, 5% of inland waters, 48% of forests, 7% of tween 16 °C and 20 °C (max 30 °C),
bogs and 37% of farmland). February between –3 °C and –7 °C
Population: 1.36 million (68% Estonians, 26% Russians, 2% (www.weather.ee); the climate is varia-
Ukrainians, 1% Belorussians and 1% Finns); 68% of population ble; coastal areas are often windy and
are urban inhabitants. humid due to the proximity of the sea.
Capital: Tallinn (397,000 inhabitants).
Distances from Tallinn: Helsinki 85 km, Riga 307 km,
St. Petersburg 395 km, Stockholm 405 km.
Official language: Estonian. System of government: parliamen-
tary democracy. Independence day: 24 February.
National bird: barn swallow. National flower: cornflower.

Currency and credit cards Souvenir shops and other tourist attractions are generally open
7 days a week from 10 am to 6 pm.
The currency is the Estonian kroon (EEK) Most service personnel speak adequate English, Finnish and
(1 EUR = 15.6466 EEK). Russian.
Most shops, restaurants, hotels and service providers accept
major international credit cards. Traffic and transportation
Currency can be exchanged at banks and currency exchange
bureaus (at Tallinn Passenger Port, Tallinn Airport, central rail- You can enter Estonia by air (www.tallinn-airport.ee), by road
way station, hotels, supermarkets and elsewhere); traveller's via Latvia or by ferry from Rostock (www.silja.ee), Helsinki or
cheques are cashed by banks (www.hansa.ee, www.eyp.ee, Stockholm (www.tallink.ee).
www.sampo.ee, etc). For getting around you can rent a car (all major car rental com-
In towns there are many ATMs, but take along some cash when panies are represented). There is regular bus service between
you go to the countryside. all major towns and villages (www.bussireisid.ee).
While Estonian restaurants include the service charge in their There are few bicycle routes in Estonian towns but their
bills, you are welcome to add 10% as a tip. number is growing, as is the number of marked bicycle routes
in the countryside.
Shopping Neither pedestrians, bicyclists nor motorists should forget that
sometimes the Estonian traffic culture leaves much to be de-
Most shops are open from 9 am to 7 pm on workdays and for sired. While the majority of motorists are polite to others, there
more limited hours on weekends. are some who give driving a bad name. Fortunately, the situa-
Supermarkets and shopping centres are open 7 days a week tion is improving.
from 9 am to 9 pm (some until 11 pm).

Photos: Lembit Michelson, Ingmar Muusikus, Jüri Seljamaa, Jarek Jõepera, Malev Toom, Mark Raidpere, Priit Simson, Vano Allsalu
There are a number of manned petrol stations (such as Statoil
and Lukoil) and unmanned petrol stations (Neste, 123, Uno X)
Telephone and Internet
that operate 24 hours and accept both cash and credit cards. Estonia's area code is +372. To place an international call start
For 24-hour towing and car assistance dial 1888. Before set- by dialling 00.
ting out please check www.balticroads.net for road informa- Public phones are operated by telephone cards (50 EEK or
tion. 100 EEK) on sale in hotels, tourist information centres, post of-
fices, newsstands, etc.
Traffic rules and regulations Prepaid mobile phone cards (Simpel, Pop, Zen, Ultra, Smart)
are on sale in petrol stations, newsstands, post offices, shop-
Speed limit: 50 km/h in urban areas; 90 km/h on roads, unless ping centres and telephone stores. The largest mobile phone
otherwise signposted. operator is EMT (www.emt.ee).
Headlights must be turned on and safety belts fastened in both There are over 700 public Internet access points in Estonia
front and rear seats. (regio.delfi.ee/ipunktid) and about 400 mostly free wireless
Driving under the influence of alcohol or other intoxicating sub- Internet areas in hotels, pubs, libraries, petrol stations, parks
stances is punishable by law! and elsewhere (www.wifi.ee).
There is paid parking in most town centres. Look for more in- For any inquiries (telephone numbers, addresses, public in-
formation on special signs and parking metres. formation, etc.) dial 1182 (Ekspress Hotline, www.1182.ee)
In the case of a traffic accident call the police. If there are no or 1188 (Infoabi, www.1188.ee) for a fee-based information
injuries and the drivers involved in the accident reach a consen- ­service.
sus, they can prepare a written report on all circumstances and For emergencies, dial 110 for police or 112 for ambulance and
facts in two copies, without calling the police. fire department.

Layout: TANK; text: Vano Allsalu; designer: Kaido Känd. Data as of January 2005.
ENG

www.visitestonia.com
e-mail: info@visitestonia.com
www.investinestonia.com

Travel Information Culture


www.riik.ee/en www.culture.ee
www.vm.ee/eng www.festivals.ee
www.rmk.ee www.estonica.org
www.turismiweb.ee www.laulupidu.ee
www.maaturism.ee www.estoniantheatre.info
www.regio.ee www.estmusic.com
www.balticsworldwide.com www.kunstikeskus.ee
www.inyourpocket.com/estonia/en www.estlit.ee
www.piletilevi.ee

S-ar putea să vă placă și