S PF is a kind of regenerative plant fibre.
SPF is the
only botanic protein fibre in the world, a newly
born guard to mankind's skin. This fibre appears from
soybean a plant which has enormous source and
affluent in nutrition. As it contains 18 amino acids
beneficial to the human body, and added anti-bacterial
elements, SPF offers a protective function to the skin.
SPF has been praised locally and internationally by
industry expert as the healthy and comfortable fibre
of 21st Century. The main component of soybean fibre
is it possesses the superiorities of many natural fibres
and synthesised ones and it is quite similar to those
of cashmere and silk, featuring fine denier, low density
and good tenacity and elongation. The resulting fabric
can give cashmere-like hand touch, silk-like luster,
cotton-like moisture conduction and wool-like warm
retentiveness. The invention of SPF is the contribution
of mankind to the protection of natural rare minerals,
the protection of resources, the care of the
environment and the consideration of the global
balance. It is an active fibre, a new green textile fibre.
SPF is an advanced textile fibre. It is also known as
"vegetable cashmere" or "soy silk." It is made from
the soybean cake after oiling by new bioengineering
technology. Firstly, the spherical protein is distilled
from the soybean cake and refined. Secondly, under
the functioning of auxiliary agent and biological
enzyme, the space structure of spherical protein
changes, and then protein spinning liquid is confected
by adding high polymers, and then thirdly, after the
liquid is cooked, the 0.9~3.0dtex fibre is produced by
wet spinning, and stabilised by acetalising, and finally
cut into short staples after curling and thermoforming.
SPF is praised as the health, comfortable and green
fibre of the new century. Its major material is soybean
protein from the farmers, massive in quantity and
42 APPAREL VIEWS / MAY 2011
inexpensive in price, and using it will not cause the
predatory development on the resources but is helpful
to resources' recovery and redevelopment. The
production of SPF will not bring pollution to the
environment, as the accessory and auxiliary agent
used are not poisonous, while the residue after the
protein extracted can be still used as feed. SPF has
not only the superiorities of the natural fibres but also
the physical properties of synthetic ones. SPF meets
the people's demand of comfortable and beautiful
wearing and also conforms to the trend of easy care.
It is the potential material for middle and high class
clothing in textile industry.
History of SPF
In 1932-33 the Ford Motor Company spent millions of
dollars on soybean research. Henry Ford promoted
the soybean, helping to develop uses for it both in
food and in industrial products. By 1935 every Ford
car had soy involved in its manufacture. For example,
soybean oil was used to paint the automobiles as
well as fluid for shock absorbers.
In 1935, Ford hired chemists Robert Boyer and Frank
Calvert to produce artificial silk. They succeeded in
making a textile fibre of spun soy protein fibres,
hardened or tanned in a formaldehyde bath, which
was given the name Azlon by the Federal Trade
Commission. The production started in 1939 and fibres
were used to make upholstery for motorcars. It was well as the contribution and assistance of many other
also usable in the making of suits, felt hats, necktie departments and organisation, soybean fibre has
and overcoats. come into birth and its industrialisation started.
Though pilot production of Azlon reached 5,000 pounds China began the commercial production of soybean
per day in 1940, it never reached the commercial fibre in 2001 in line with the call from China National
market. Then the production was taken over by the Textile & Apparel Council (CNTAC). According rough
Drackett Products Co. and a new plant was set up in statistics, over 500 textile mills have been concerned
1949. After 10 years of hard work of Li Guanqi's as with the development and application of soybean fibre.
 Physical parameters compared with other fibres
Property SPF Cotton Viscose Silk Wool
Breaking strength Dry 3.8-4.0 1.9-3.1 1.5-2.0 2.6-3.5 0.9-1.6
(CN/dtex) Wet 2.5-3.0 2.2-3.1 0.7-1.1 1.9-2.5 0.7-1.3
Dry breaking 18-21 7-10 18-24 14-25 25-35
extension (Per cent)
Initial modulus (kg/mm2) 700-1300 850-1200 850-1150 650-1250
Loop strength (Per cent) 75-85 70 30-65 60-80
Knot strength (Per cent) 85 92-100 45-60 80-85
Moisture regain (Per cent) 8.6 9.0 13.0 11.0 14-16
Density (g/cm3) 1.29 1.50-1.54 1.46-1.52 1.34-1.38 1.33
Heat endurance Yellowing and Becoming brown Strength Keep stable when (Good)
tackifing at about after long time down after long time temperature
1. Soybean Plant 120° C processing at 150° C processing at 150° C <=148° C
(Bad) (Excellent) (Good) (Good)
2. Soybean cakes
Moth resistance Excellent Excellent Bad Bad
3. Raw Material
Fungus resistance Excellent Bad Excellent Excellent
4.SPF+PVA
Alkali resistance At general level Excellent Excellent Good Bad
5.Wet spinning
Acid resistance Excellent Bad Bad Excellent Excellent
6. SPF
Ultraviolet resistance Good At the general level Bad Bad Bad

Physical parameters of soybean fibre • Good colour fastness: The original colour of SPF is
ivory like tussah colour. It can be dyed by acid dyes
No. Items Unit Figure and active dyes especially the colour is quite fresh
1 Moisture regain Per cent 8.6 and lustrous with the later dyes while quite stable
2 Friction force F/gf 33.4 in the sunshine and perspiration. Compared with
3 Breaking strength CN/dtex =>2.5 silk products, the problem of freshness of colour
4 Drape coefficient Per cent 7 and stability of dyeing
• Function of health: SPF possesses many amino
5 Antistatic property g/cm2 10.33
acids necessary to human's body, so this sole
6 Elastic recover Per cent 55.4 botanic protein fibre has the function of health that
7 Crimp ratio Per cent 1.65 no other fibre processes. Meeting people's skin,
the amino acid in soybean protein can activate the
Microscopic features collagen protein in the skin, resist tickling and
Vertical shear of SPF is irregular and has moisture evaporate the skin. Bacteria resistant elements
absorbing grooves. When lengthwise fibres are are integrated in fibre's molecule chain, which
examined microscopically, longitudinal lines called makes the fabrics keep the property of resisting
striations are seen. In cross section it appears coli bacillus, staphylococcus aureus and candida
dumbbell shaped and has Island-in-a sea structure. albicans permanently, this avoids the shortcoming
of not permanent effect when the anti-bacteria
function is added to the yarn when finishing
• Good physical property: Breaking strength of the
single SPF is over 3.0CNdtex, which is higher than
that of wool, cotton and silk and only lower than
that of polyester fibre of high intension. By now,
1.27dtex fibre can be spun into 6dtex yarn with
high quality, which can be used for high-quality and
high-density fabrics. Also, fabric of SPF has
outstanding anti-crease, easy-wash and fast-dry
Vertical shear of SPF under Cross section of SPF under
Electron microscope Electron microscope property
• Anti-ultraviolet: Its anti-ultraviolet property is
superior to cotton fibre, much more superior to
Characteristics of SPF viscose and silk. The absorptive of ultraviolet
• Cashmere feel: The fabric made of SPF is soft, radiation could reach upto 99.7 per cent
smooth, light. It has cashmere feel, but smoother • Far infrared function: The emissivity of far-infrared
than cashmere; it is as comfortable to the skin as could reach upto 87 per cent, have the function of
human's second skin heat-effect, promoting micro circulation of skin and
• Dry and comfortable: The moisture absorption of enforcing the immunity etc.
SPF is similar to that of cotton fibre, but its • Skin evaporation: Its amino acid can activate the
ventilation is more superior to of cotton. Knitting collagen protein in the skin, resist tickling and
fabric of SPF has soft, smooth and light handle which evaporate the skin
is the same as that of fabrics made from silk blended • Antibacterial: Soybean protein fibre has
with cashmere antibacterial properties that resist colibacillus,
• Luxurious appearance: SPF fabric has joyful silky staphylococcus aurous and candica albicans.
lustre with perfect drape and elegant; fabrics of Fabrics made from soy protein fibre and linen or
yarn in high count has fine and clear texture and is other fibres are ideal for functional underwear and
classical shirting summer wear
Blending of SPF
SPF can be blended well with other fibres to give
more features.
1) With cashmere: Blended with cashmere fibre, SPF
enhances the hand as well as lowers the
manufacturing cost of cashmere products. Gives
superior natural softness, lustres and comfort, as
well as anti-pilling and drape properties along with
intimacy to skin, easy care. E.g. suitable for
cashmere sweater, shawl and coat.
2) With mercerised wool: Blend gives a kind of knit
fabric quite similar to that of cashmere with colour
more abundant and better mercerised effect.
Produces excellent results taking advantage of
both fibres, the lustrous, soft hand and strength of
soybean fibre, and the elasticity and heat-retaining
properties of wool. As its shrinkage is less, it is
easier to wash and preserve. Spinning of high-
count yarn is possible. E.g. suitable for wool
sweater, interlock underwear and blanket
3) With silk: Combination has not only lustre and
elegance of silk but also a good draping. At the
same time, provides a solution to problems of
silk, such as poor resistance to staining from
perspiration and water, sticky to skin being wet,
poor light fastness and moisture permeability.
Higher quality can be achieved at a lower cost.
E.g. suitable for printing silk, knitting underwear,
sleepwear, shirts and evening dress
4) With combed cotton: Compared to cotton fabrics,
it has softer hand, lustre, better moisture absorption
and ventilation, quick dry, better bacteria
resistance, more comfort for wearing. Blend also
enhances the drape properties of cotton. E.g.
suitable for men's and women's underwear, T-shirt,
infant's wear, towel and beddings
5) With elastic fibre: Adding a small portion of
elastic fibre makes fabrics more elastic and easier
for washing and caring. It is quite active and
charming
6) With polyester and other synthetic fibres: The
blends raise the properties of comfort, beauty
and wrinkling resistance. E.g. suitable for spring
and summer fashion apparels, underwear, shirt
and sportswear

APPAREL VIEWS / MAY 2011 43

 Applications of soybean fibre
Yarn: Spinning methods have already been
established for 100 per cent soybean fibre, its blends
with natural (cotton, linen, wool, cashmere and silk)
and chemical (modified polyester, viscose, tencel,
polynosic etc.) fibres, and used in plants dealing with
cotton, silk and wool. Production of 100 per cent
soybean fibre yarns in the range of 21S-80S and
blended yarns (28/72, 30/70, 45/55, 60/40, 70/30, 85/
15 etc.) is possible.
Knit fabric: Soybean protein contained in the fibre
makes a superior, soft hand endowed with both
moisture absorbency and permeability, which makes
best application in knits and innerwear. Finished with
an anti-bacterial agent, health-care functionalities are
also given. It has great potential in its use in high-
grade knits and innerwear.
Woven fabric: Weaves made of soybean fibre blends
with other natural or chemical fibres have so far been
used in shirting and home textiles. A series of such
products, too, has already been developed. Their
special feature is the lustre and soft hand found in
silk. Their economic effects are extremely high.
SPF are soft and smooth as well as absorbent it is
ideal for products that are worn close to the skin such
as underwear, sleepwear, sportswear and children's
and infant's clothes, bed sheets, towels and blankets.
Undergarments: The undergarment made by SPF and
spandex, has incomparable and unimaginable
softness and comfortableness. Wearer’s skin enjoys
the pleasing breath after wearing SPF fabric, easy
stretch and fine caring especially “skin on skin”
feeling.
Baby wear: Eco-friendly soybean baby clothing offers
many benefits to baby. The breathability, warmth and
comfort are outstanding.
Skirt: SPF has lustre of silk which is joyful and an
excellent drape which makes the fabric elegant;
fabrics of yarn with high count has fine and clear
appearance and is ideal for top-level shirt.
44 APPAREL VIEWS / MAY 2011
Advantages the environment. It is a renewable natural resource
• Luxurious appearance that is bio-degradable and eco-friendly.
• Fabric is soft, smooth and light SPF can fill up the vacancy in textile material
• Naturally has the light, smooth, soft feel of cashmere development of our country as a big textile-producing
• Light-reflecting properties gives the lustre of silk country. It will inevitably stimulate the new product
• Elegant draping abilities development in the field of cotton, wool and spun silk
spinning, and bring the textile corporations new
• Anti-wrinkle
development opportunity
• Provides better ventilation than cotton
• Higher breaking strength than wool, cotton or silk
• Good absorbency - moisture absorption equal to
cotton
• Warmth retention like wool
• No shrinkage
• Antibacterial qualities
• Colour-fast and has good dyeing properties
• Sunlight resistant
• Perspiration fastness
• Dries quickly and easily
• Very lightweight - perfect for undergarments or
summer wear and excellent for kids clothes
• Natural golden colour
Disadvantages
• Due to the low frictional coefficient, low crimp
number and low crimp stability of soybean fibre,
the soybean fabric is easy to fuzz
Caring for soybean clothes
• Soy clothing is easy wash and dries quickly
• Hand wash or gently cycle in cold water
• Get shrink in boiling water
• No dry cleaning is necessary
• Avoid chlorine bleaches
• Either air dry, or tumble dry with no heat
• Fast drying fibre
• Can be ironed on a low setting without steam
• High heat may damages the fabric
• Like many other fabrics, dark coloured soy materials
can bleed when laundered. Wash these separately, Tee-shirt in ‘Luxury soy’ 55 per cent soy, 40 per cent
or use a dye catcher sheet cotton, 5 per cent Lycra
• Hang or lay flat to dry
Environmental benefits of soybean
SPF fabrics are considered green. These consist of
by-products left over from processing tofu, soybean
oil, and other soy foods. The raw materials’ being a
natural product available in abundance and recyclable
there is no waste of resources. All auxiliary materials
and agents used in the production of SPF are harmless
to nature, and most auxiliaries used and even
unfinished products are recyclable. The bean dregs,
too, after having their protein extracted can be used
as fodder. SPF is a kind of environmentally protecting
product which does not harm to the environment, 2(x)ist's recently released soy collection features several
atmosphere, water and human body during its process styles of briefs and a T-shirt made with 95 per cent soy-
based fabric (the rest is nylon).
of production.
Conclusion
The invention of SPF is the contribution of mankind to By Vasant R Kothari, Assistant Professor,
the protection of natural rare minerals, the protection NIFT, Bangalore & Pallavi Jain, MFTech
of resources, the care of the environment and the (Student), NIFT Bangalore (Author can be
contacted @ www.vasantkothari.com)
consideration of the global balance. SPF produces a
positive effect on human skin improving its overall
energetic balance. Some of the healthy organic
components prevent early skin aging. SPF offers a
number of great properties for both the wearer and