Lighting system

Introduction
Modern cars use dozens of bulbs to light everything from the road to the ashtray. Servicing the system is easy; over half of all lighting problems are caused by burned out bulbs, corroded sockets or burned out fuses. The first step in understanding a car's lights, fuses and flashers is to learn about basic electricity. For more information on electrical circuits, how they work and how to troubleshoot them, please refer to the information on "Understanding and Troubleshooting Electrical Systems" elsewhere in this manual

Light

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

bulbs

Small bulbs, used for most automotive applications, come in several basic typessingle contact bayonet base, double contact bayonet base with opposed or staggered indexing lugs, cartridge types for a small, flat installation, and wedge-base light bulbs. Small bulbs show a broken filament when burned-out and are easily replaced. Turn them about turn and pull them from the socket. The single contact bayonet base is usually used for instrument panel lights in a small snap-in socket. The major difficulty in replacing these is finding them. The double contact bayonet base is commonly used for turn signals, parking and taillights. The staggered indexing lugs allow one-way installation so the filament connection is correct. These bulbs are reached by removing the lens or light assembly; inside the trunk is also a common place to hide the light housings. Don't forget to install the gasket under the lens or housing, if one is used. The gasket seals out moisture, a major cause of bulb troubles. While the bulb is out of the socket, check the socket for corrosion and if necessary, clean it. Poor grounding is a major cause of non-functioning bulbs, especially when the bulb filaments are OK. Scraping the terminal sockets and polishing the bulb contacts is frequently all that's required. Also, check the ground between the bulb housing and the fender, and between the fender and the body. The electricity has to get back to the ground (negative) side of the battery. If it can't because of poor grounding, the bulb won't work. Many times, running a ground wire from the bulb housing directly to the frame of the car is easier than trying to make a ground through rusted sheet metal.
Figure 1 Examples of various types of automotive light bulbs.

1. Halogen headlight bulb3. Dome light 2. Side marker light bulb 4. Turn signal/brake light bulb Figure 2 Burned bulbs show a broken filament

bulb (arrows).

Figure 3 Depress and twist this type of bulb counterclockwise, then pull the bulb straight from its socket.

Figure 4 Disengage the spring clip which retains one tapered end of this dome light bulb, then withdraw the bulb.

Headlights
See Figures 5 and 6 In the good old days, headlights where the one part for the car that were easy to figure out. They were round sealed beams and you either had two or four mounted on the front of your car. Nothing stays simple very long. New styling brought on rectangular headlights. This alone doubled the number of possibilities. Even more design changes and lowered hood lines brought out the small rectangular and even the mini-quad (the smallest size sealed beam). This brought the possible number of sealed beam configurations to seven. For years, European cars used halogen capsule headlight assemblies. It wasn't until the late 80's that the Department of Transportation (DOT) approved the use for these in U.S. cars. This added three new possibilities to the existing sealed beams.

However, what this meant to the automaker's was that they could design composite aerodynamic headlight assemblies that could conform to every body design and they can share these common replaceable halogen capsule bulbs. Practically all late model cars and light trucks use halogen lights. The halogen lights increase the candlepower of the headlight from 75,000 to almost 150,000 and boosts the distance a driver can see at night by almost 20% over the old tungsten lights. Automaker's started installing them on top-of-the-line models in 1980 and they went to wide spread use on 1981 and later models. Like the old tungsten lights, the halogen lights use a tungsten filament, but it is contained in a halogen gas environment, which allows the filament to be heated to a much higher temperature to produce a much brighter and whiter light. They also require less power, so that a smaller and lighter alternator can be used. See Figure 5 Common headlight configurations
Figure 6 Light patterns of different types of headlights.

Headlight

See Figures 7, 8, 9 and 10

replacement

On most cars, light bulb replacement is a simple matter. On sealed beam units, the retaining ring is removed (by loosening the clamp and/or removing the retaining bolts), then the beam is pulled forward so the electrical connector can be unplugged.
Figure 7 To replace most sealed beam headlights, start by loosening the retaining ring fastener(s)...

Figure

...then

remove

the

retaining

ring

to

free

the

headlight.

Figure 9 Pull the lamp forward and unplug the wiring harness, then install the replacement bulb.

On most halogen cars the bulb is replaced from behind the lamp assembly. Usually it is just a matter of opening the hood, unscrewing the lock ring on the bulb socket and/or the bulb socket itself and withdrawing the assembly from the back of the lamp. Once the socket is exposed you can remove the old halogen bulb and install the replacement.

NEVER touch the glass of a halogen bulb! If you touch the glass, you fingers will leave behind natural skin oils which will create a hot spot on the bulb, burning it out LONG BEFORE the natural end of its life. Most halogen bulbs contain a metallic coated tip which can be safely handled and, of course, you can always handle it by the plastic base.
Figure 10 Most new cars require only halogen bulb replacement.

Aiming

the

headlights

See Figures 11, 12, 13 and 14

The headlights must be properly aimed to provide the best, safest road illumination. The lights should be checked for proper aim and adjusted as necessary. Certain state and local authorities have requirements for headlight aiming; these should be checked before adjustment is made.

Headlights not properly aimed can make it virtually impossible to see and may blind other drivers on the road, possibly causing an accident. Note that the following procedure is a temporary fix, until you can take your car to a repair service center for a proper adjustment. Headlight adjustment may be temporarily made using a wall, as described below, or on the rear of another vehicle. When adjusted, the lights should not glare in oncoming car or truck windshields, nor should they illuminate the passenger compartment of vehicles driving in front of you. These adjustments are rough and should always be fine-tuned by a repair shop, which is equipped with headlight aiming tools. Improper adjustments may be both dangerous and illegal. For most of the vehicles, horizontal and vertical aiming of each sealed beam unit is provided by two adjusting screws which move the retaining ring and adjusting plate against the tension of a coil spring. There is no adjustment for focus; this is done during headlight manufacturing. On vehicles with composite headlights, the assembly is bolted into position; no adjustment should be necessary or possible. Some applications, however, may be bolted to an adjuster plate or may be retained by adjusting screws. If so, follow this procedure when adjusting the lights, BUT always have the adjustment checked by a reputable shop. Before removing the headlight bulb or disturbing the headlamp in any way, note the current settings in order to ease headlight adjustment upon reassembly. If the high or low beam setting of the old lamp still works, this can be done using the wall of a garage or a building: 1. Park the vehicle on a level surface, with the fuel tank about 1/2 full and with the vehicle empty of all extra cargo (unless normally carried). The vehicle should be facing a wall which is no less than 6 feet (1.8m) high and 12 feet (3.7m) wide. The front of the vehicle should be about 25 feet from the wall. 2. If neither beam on one side is working, and if another like-sized vehicle is available, park the second one in the exact spot where the vehicle was and mark the beams using the same-side light. Then switch the vehicles so the one to be aimed is back in the original spot. It must be parked no closer to or farther away from the wall than the second vehicle. 3. Perform any necessary repairs, but make sure the vehicle is not moved, or is returned to the exact spot from which the lights were marked. Turn the headlights ON and adjust the beams to match the marks on the wall.

4. Have the headlight adjustment checked as soon as possible by a reputable repair shop. 5. If aiming is to be performed outdoors, it is advisable to wait until dusk in order to properly see the headlight beams on the wall. If done in a garage, darken the area around the wall as much as possible by closing shades or hanging cloth over the windows. 6. Turn the headlights ON and mark the wall at the center of each light's low beam, then switch on the brights and mark the center of each light's high beam. A short length of masking tape which is visible from the front of the vehicle may be used. Although marking all four positions is advisable, marking one position from each light should be sufficient.

Figure 11 Location of the aiming screws on most vehicles with sealed beam headlights.

Figure 12 Example of headlight adjustment screw location for composite headlamps.

Figure

13

Low-beam

headlight

pattern

alignment.

Figure

14

High-beam

headlight

pattern

alignment.

Fuses, fusible links and circuit breakers

All wires must be insulated and protected from overload. If the insulation breaks (creating a path for electricity that was not intended) or if the circuit is overloaded, the fuse, circuit breaker or fusible link that protects the circuit will "blow." Fuses See Figures 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19 Fuses never blow because of high voltage. High amperage in the circuit, greater than the capacity of the fuse, causes the metal strip to heat up, melt and open the circuit, preventing the flow of electricity. A fuse could carry 200 volts as well as 2 volts, but

will only tolerate its rated amperage and about 10% to handle minor current surges before it blows. Auto fuses come in several designs, but all usually consist of a zinc strip or a piece of wire. Heavier load fuses have a notch in the middle of the zinc strip. The wider section at each end is to give better temperature-carrying capability. The heat from a temporary overload is transferred to the wider metal and slows fuse burnout. In case of a heavy overload, the metal strip will melt in a fraction of a second and protect the circuit. The old glass fuse, used in older model cars is primarily used in accessory applications today. On all late model cars, you'll likely find a fuse that is different from the old glass tube fuse. It's a miniaturized, blade-type design that is referred to as ATC, ATM, or MAX fuse. The "blade-type" was developed in conjunction with the smaller fuse block. Fuses of different ratings are interchangeable but amperage ratings are molded in color-coded numbers that match the fuse ratings on the fuse block. The following chart identifies the amperage and color code. Normally the fuse box is somewhere under the dash or in the engine compartment. Burned out fuses are readily identified by the burned zinc element in the middle of the glass, plastic, or ceramic insulator. Small, inexpensive plastic tools are available to easily replace a burned fuse. Never replace a fuse with one of a higher load capacity (the amperage is usually stated on the fuse).
Figure 15 Blade-type fuses - color code denotes amperage.

Black Gray Violet Pink Tan Brown Red Lt. Blue Yellow Clear Green Amber Orange Natural

ATC 1 2 3 4 5 71/2 10 15 20 25 30 40

ATM 2 3 4 5 71/2 10 15 20 25 30

MAX

50 60 20 30 70 40 80

Figure 16 Old glass-style fuses are used primarily for accessory applications in today's late-model cars.

Most people's reaction when a fuse blows is simply to replace it and see if the problem reoccurs. Well, if the new fuse blows too, then there is something wrong with that circuit -- meaning you should figure out the problem and fix it rather than just continuing to replace fuses. Check the wiring to the components that are run off the blown fuse, look for bad connections, cuts, breaks or shorts which would allow the circuit to complete without the proper load or which would add such a large additional load that the fuse would blow. Sometimes just wiggling the harness will be enough to stop the problem (remove a short or make a better connection), BUT, unless you find the broken wire or fasten the loose connector, the fuse will likely blow again later.
Figure 17 A blade type fuse is bad if there is a break in the element.

Figure 18 A hairline break is hard to see, but represents a bad fuse, too.

Figure 19

To use a puller, simply grasp the fuse, then pull it out.

Circuit See Figure 20

breakers

Circuit breakers are sealed assemblies that perform the same job as the fuse, but in case of an overload, will cut current for an instant. Unlike a fuse, things will return to normal. They rarely go bad but must be replaced with an identical unit should one blow. As with fuses, if a circuit breaker continues to fail, the source of the trouble should be found and corrected. The main advantage of a circuit breaker over a fuse is what happens when the circuit breaker does its job. When a fuse blows, it becomes trash, while the circuit breaker can cool and reset (to be used over and over again). For this reason, circuit breakers tend to be used to protect high load circuits, on which an occasional overload is expected. Accessories such as power windows or seats which use powerful motors (which might occasionally draw too high an amperage if they encounter mechanical resistance) are good candidates for circuit breaker protection. You never know exactly where to look for a circuit breaker, but many times, they are located near the fuse box or near the component they protect. On some cars, the circuit breaker that protects the headlights is an integral part of the headlight switch, which must be replaced in its entirety. Circuit breakers are designed to offer a variety of performance characteristics including three types of reset. Always follow the OEM's recommendations when replacing circuit breakers. Replace only with the same type breaker in aftermarket applications. Type I -- Automatic reset. Circuit breaker automatically resets after opening, if the fault still exists, the breaker will continue to cycle between ON and OFF positions until the overload is corrected. These devices are sometimes called "cycling breakers."

Type II -- Modified reset. The circuit breaker will remain tripped (in the OFF position) as long as there's power to the circuit due to an internal resistor. Type II breakers can be reset by turning off the circuit, or by turning off the ignition switch. These devices are sometimes called "non-cycling breakers." Type III -- -Manual reset. The circuit breaker will remain tripped (in the OFF position) until an indicator button or lever is manually reset.
Figure 20 Circuit breakers come in a variety of styles and sizes, and can be mounted almost anywhere. They may be mounted in the line they protect, or plugged into the circuit at the fuse box.

Fusible links See Figures 21, 22 and 23

and

maxi

fuses

Fusible links are a piece of wire about 6" long which is spliced into another wire, usually a gauge or two smaller than the wire it protects. Fusible links can be found almost anywhere. Many times they are identified by a colored flag on the link, or by a loop to make it stand out from other wires, and are usually the same color as the protected circuit. Some fusible links may burn in half with no change in appearance, but most are covered with a special insulation that will bubble and char when the fusible link burns. Fusible links should always be replaced with an original-equipment type.
Figure 21 Most fusible links show a melted, charred insulation when they burn out.

On most modern cars the fusible link has been replaced by the maxi fuse. The maxi fuse is a much larger version of the common standard size fuse (designed to carry the large loads of fusible links) and which have the advantage of being replaced much more easily than the old style fusible link.
Figure 22 Mini, standard and maxi fuses are used in most newer cars.

Figure 23 A maxi fuse can be pulled out of the block in the same manner as a standard fuse.

Flashers
See Figure 24 The flasher consists of a blade and resistance ribbon, which holds the blade in a bent position, until the flasher-circuit is activated. Current flows through the ribbon, heating it so that it elongates and relaxes its tension on the blade. The blade snaps away from the ribbon, breaking the circuit. In the absence of current, the ribbon cools rapidly and shrinks in length until the blade is pulled back into contact with the ribbon. This heating and cooling cycle causes the flashing action in the circuit. Essentially, the flasher is a timed relay, the timing of which is dependent upon the current in the circuit and the mechanical design of the flasher itself. Flashers are found in all sorts of out-of-the-way places. They are usually small metal or plastic (round or square) units that plug into the fuse box, and they operate the turn signal indicators and the hazard warning system. These don't go bad very often, but suspect the flasher if all the bulbs are in good condition. Conversely, check the bulbs first, because the flashers are designed to stop working if one of the bulbs burns out alerting the driver to a potential problem. If you can't find the flasher right away, turn on the ignition and the turn signals and start hunting for the noise. When you find it, you'll be able to feel the vibration in the relay. Most flashers plug in and can usually be replaced by feel, even if you can't see them.
Figure 24 The flasher or fuse block can be found almost anywhere, depending on the year and model of the car.

Periodic maintenance for lights, fuses and flashers

Lights, fuses and flashers give little warning before they go bad. About the only thing you can do is to periodically check the bulbs to be sure they are working. Fuses and flashers will give immediate evidence that they have ceased functioning. Check operation of bulbs Every 1,000 miles/1 month

TROUBLESHOOTING BASIC LIGHTING PROBLEMS

The ability to see and be seen is vital to safety. Fortunately, most lighting problems are relatively uncomplicated and easily corrected.

The Problem Lights

Is Caused By

What To Do

One or more lights don't work, but others do Defective bulb(s) Replace bulb(s) Blown fuse(s) Replace fuse(s) Dirty fuse clips or Clean connections light sockets Poor ground circuit Run ground wire from light socket housing to car frame Lights burn out quickly Incorrect voltage Have voltage regulator checked regulator setting or /replaced defective regulator Poor battery/ Check battery/ alternator alternator connections connections Low/discharged Check battery battery Alternator not Check drive belt tension; repair or charging replace alternator Corroded sockets or Clean bulb and socket contacts connections and connections Low voltage output Have voltage regulator checked /replaced Loose connection Poor ground Circuit operating circuit) Tighten all connections Run ground wire from light housing to car frame breaker Check connections and look for (short bare wires

Lights go dim

Lights flicker

Lights "flare"- Some flare is normal on High voltage setting Have voltage regulator checked acceleration- if excessive, see "Lights Burn /adjusted Out Quickly" Lights glare- approaching drivers are blinded Lights adjusted too Have headlights aimed high Rear springs or Check rear springs/shocks shocks sagging Rear tires soft Check/correct rear tire pressure Turn Signals Turn signals don't work in either direction Blown fuse Defective flasher Loose connection Replace fuse Replace flasher Check/tighten all connections

Right (or left) turn signal only won't work

Bulb burned out Replace bulb Right (or left) Check/replace indicator bulb

indicator burned out Short circuit Flasher rate too slow or too fast

bulb Check/repair wiring

Incorrect wattage Replace bulb bulb Incorrect flasher Replace flasher (use a variable load flasher If you pull a trailer) Burned out bulb Replace bulb Defective flasher Replace flasher Burned out Indicator Replace indicator bulb bulb

Indicator lights do not flash (burn steadily) Indicator lights do not light at all

TROUBLESHOOTING BASIC TURN SIGNAL AND FLASHER PROBLEMS Most problems in the turn signal or flasher systems can be reduced to defective flashers or bulbs, which are easily replaced. Occasionally, problems in the turn signals are traced to the switch in the steering column, which will require professional service. F=Front, R=Rear Problem What To Do

Turn signals light, but do not flash

Replace the flasher

No turn signals light on either side Check the flasher Check for open circuit, short circuit or poor ground.

Check the fuse. Replace if defective. by substitution.

Both turn signals on one side don't Check for bad ground In both housings.

work

Check

for

bad

bulbs.

One turn signal light on one side doesn't work Check for corrosion in Check for poor ground at socket.

socket.

Check and/or replace bulb. Clean contacts.

Turn signal flashes too fast or too slow Check any bulb on the side flashing too fast. A heavy-duty bulb is probably installed In place of a regular bulb Check the bulb flashing too slow. A standard bulb was probably installed in place of a heavy-duty bulb Check for loose connections or corrosion at the bulb socket

Indicator lights don't work in either direction working Check the dash Check the flasher by substitution

Check If the turn signals are indicator lights

One Indicator light doesn't light On systems with 1 dash indicator: - See if the lights work on the same side. Often the filaments have been reversed In systems combining stoplights with taillights and turn signals Check the flasher by substitution On systems with 2 Indicators: Check the bulbs on the same side Check the indicator light bulb - Check the flasher by substitution

Jump
See Figure 1

starting

Whenever a vehicle is jump started, precautions must be followed in order to prevent the possibility of personal injury. Remember that batteries contain a small amount of explosive hydrogen gas which is a by-product of battery charging. Sparks should always be avoided when working around batteries, especially when attaching jumper cables. To minimize the possibility of accidental sparks, follow the procedure carefully.
Figure 1 Connect the jumper cables to the batteries and engine in the order shown.

NEVER hook the batteries up in a series circuit or the entire electrical system will go up in smoke, including the starter! Vehicles equipped with a diesel engine may utilize two 12 volt batteries. If so, the batteries are connected in a parallel circuit (positive terminal to positive terminal, negative terminal to negative terminal). Hooking the batteries up in parallel circuit increases battery cranking power without increasing total battery voltage output. Output remains at 12 volts. On the other hand, hooking two 12 volt batteries up in a series circuit (positive terminal to negative terminal, positive terminal to negative terminal) increases total battery output to 24 volts (12 volts plus 12 volts). Jump starting precautions Be sure that both batteries are of the same voltage. Vehicles covered by this manual and most vehicles on the road today utilize a 12 volt charging system. Be sure that both batteries are of the same polarity (have the same terminal, in most cases NEGATIVE grounded). Be sure that the vehicles are not touching or a short could occur. On serviceable batteries, be sure the vent cap holes are not obstructed. Do not smoke or allow sparks anywhere near the batteries. In cold weather, make sure the battery electrolyte is not frozen. This can occur more readily in a battery that has been in a state of discharge. Do not allow electrolyte to contact your skin or clothing.

Jumper cables There are four things to consider when buying jumper cables: Conductor (Cable)

Cables are usually made from copper, which minimizes power loss due to heating of the conductor, since copper has less resistance to electrical current (more resistance produces more heat). Aluminum is sometimes used, but the gauge size should be at least two numbers smaller to deliver the same power. The package should say "all copper conductor"; if not, push the insulation back to be sure it is copper. The gauge (size) of the conductor is also important. The smaller the gauge numbers the larger the wire. A larger conductor will carry more current longer, without overheating. Clamps Check the feel of the clamps. They should resist twisting from side to side, have a strong spring and good gripping power. A higher amperage rating means the clamps will withstand more current. Insulation The conductor is insulated with vinyl or rubber to protect the user. Quality cables will retain their flexibility in sub-zero temperatures without cracking or breaking. Length Buy the shortest cables possible to safely do the job. Longer cables mean increased resistance and power loss, but they should be at least 8-10 feet to reach between two vehicles. Jump starting proceduree Single Battery Gasoline Engine Models 1. Make sure that the voltages of the 2 batteries are the same. Most batteries and charging systems are of the 12 volt variety. 2. Pull the jumping vehicle (with the good battery) into a position so the jumper cables can reach the dead battery and that vehicle's engine. Make sure that the vehicles do NOT touch. 3. Place the transmissions of both vehicles in Neutral (MT) or P (AT), as applicable, then firmly set their parking brakes. If necessary for safety reasons, the hazard lights on both vehicles may be operated throughout the entire procedure without significantly increasing the difficulty of jumping the dead battery.

4. Turn all lights and accessories OFF on both vehicles. Make sure the ignition
switches on both vehicles are turned to the OFF position. 5. Cover the battery cell caps with a rag, but do not cover the terminals. 6. Make sure the terminals on both batteries are clean and free of corrosion or proper electrical connection will be impeded. If necessary, clean the battery terminals before proceeding. 7. Identify the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals on both batteries.

8. Connect the first jumper cable to the positive (+) terminal of the dead battery, then connect the other end of that cable to the positive (+) terminal of the booster (good) battery. 9. Connect one end of the other jumper cable to the negative (-) terminal on the booster battery and the final cable clamp to an engine bolt head, alternator bracket or other solid, metallic point on the engine with the dead battery. Try to pick a ground on the engine that is positioned away from the battery in order to minimize the possibility of the 2 clamps touching should one loosen during the procedure. DO NOT connect this clamp to the negative (-) terminal of the bad battery.

Be very careful to keep the jumper cables away from moving parts (cooling fan, belts, etc.) on both engines.

10. Check to make sure that the cables are routed away from any moving parts, then start the donor vehicle's engine. Run the engine at moderate speed for several minutes to allow the dead battery a chance to receive some initial charge. 11. With the donor vehicle's engine still running slightly above idle, try to start the vehicle with the dead battery. Crank the engine for no more than 10 seconds at a time and let the starter cool for at least 20 seconds between tries. If the vehicle does not start in 3 tries, it is likely that something else is also wrong or that the battery needs additional time to charge. 12. Once the vehicle is started, allow it to run at idle for a few seconds to make sure that it is operating properly. 13. Turn ON the headlights, heater blower and, if equipped, the rear defroster of both vehicles in order to reduce the severity of voltage spikes and subsequent risk of damage to the vehicles' electrical systems when the cables are disconnected. This step is especially important to any vehicle equipped with computer control modules. 14. Carefully disconnect the cables in the reverse order of connection. Start with the negative cable that is attached to the engine ground, then the negative cable on the donor battery. Disconnect the positive cable from the donor battery and finally, disconnect the positive cable from the formerly dead battery. Be careful when disconnecting the cables from the positive terminals not to allow the alligator clips to touch any metal on either vehicle or a short and sparks will occur. Dual See Figure 2
Figure

Battery

Diesel

Models

Diesel

dual-battery

jump

starting

diagram

Some diesel model vehicles utilize two 12 volt batteries, one on either side of the engine compartment. The batteries are connected in a parallel circuit (positive terminal to positive terminal and negative terminal to negative terminal). Hooking the batteries up in a parallel circuit increases battery cranking power without increasing total battery voltage output. The output will remain at 12 volts. On the other hand, hooking two 12 volt batteries in a series circuit (positive terminal to negative terminal and negative terminal to positive terminal) increases the total battery output to 24 volts (12 volts plus 12 volts).

Never hook the batteries up in a series circuit or the entire electrical system will be damaged, including the starter motor. In the event that a dual battery vehicle needs to be jump started, use the following procedure:

1. Turn the heater blower motor ON to help protect the electrical system from
voltage surges when the jumper cables are connected and disconnected.

2. Turn all lights and other switches OFF.

The battery cables connected to one of the diesel vehicle's batteries may be thicker than those connected to its other battery. (The passenger side battery often has thicker cables.) This set-up allows relatively high jump starting current to pass without damage. If so, be sure to connect the positive jumper cable to the appropriate battery in the disabled vehicle. If there is no difference in cable thickness, connect the jumper cable to either battery's positive terminal. Similarly, if the donor vehicle also utilizes two batteries, the jumper cable connections should be made to the battery with the thicker cables; if there is no difference in thickness, the connections can be made to either donor battery.

3. Connect the end of a jumper cable to one of the disabled diesel's positive (+) battery terminals, then connect the clamp at the other end of the same cable to the positive terminal (+) on the jumper battery. 4. Connect one end of the other jumper cable to the negative battery terminal (-) on the jumper battery, then connect the other cable clamp to an engine bolt head, alternator bracket or other solid, metallic point on the disabled vehicle's engine. DO NOT connect this clamp to the negative terminal (-) of the disabled vehicle's battery.

Be careful to keep the jumper cables away from moving parts (cooling fan, belts, etc.) on both engines.

5. Start the engine on the vehicle with the good battery and run it at a moderate speed. 6. Start the engine of the vehicle with the discharged battery. 7. When the engine starts on the vehicle with the discharged battery, remove the cable from the engine block before disconnecting the cable from the positive terminal.

Battery
See Figures 3 and 4

chargers

Before using any battery charger, consult the manufacturer's instructions for its use. Battery chargers are electrical devices that change house Alternating Current (AC) to a lower voltage of Direct Current (DC) that can be used to charge an auto battery. There are two types of battery chargers-manual and automatic. On diesel-engine vehicles, do not operate the glow plug system while using an external battery charger to charge the battery. A manual battery charger must be physically disconnected when the battery has become fully charged. If not, the battery can be overcharged, and possibly fail. Excess charging current at the end of the charging cycle will heat the electrolyte, resulting in loss of water and active material, substantially reducing battery life. As a rule, on manual chargers, when the ammeter on the charger registers half the rated amperage of the charger, the battery is fully charged. This can vary, and it is recommended to use a hydrometer to accurately measure state of charge. Automatic battery chargers have an important advantage-they can be left connected (for instance, overnight) without the possibility of overcharging the battery. Automatic chargers are equipped with a sensing device to allow the battery charge to taper off to near zero as the battery becomes fully charged. When charging a low or completely discharged battery, the meter will read close to full rated output. If only partially discharged, the initial reading may be less than full rated output, as the charger responds to the condition of the battery. As the battery continues to charge, the sensing device monitors the state of charge and reduces the charging rate. As

the rate of charge tapers to zero amps, the charger will continue to supply a few milliamps of current-just enough to maintain a charged condition.
Figure 3 Battery charging time chart.

Specific Gravity Charger Rated Output Before Charging* 4amps 6amps 10amps 1.250 ----Charge at 2 amps or less---1.225 2-4 hrs 2-3 hrs 1/2-1 hr 1.200 5-7 hrs 3-5 hrs 1-2 hrs 1.175 8-10 hrs 5-7 hrs 2-4 hrs 1.150 10-14 hrs 6-8 hrs 3-5 hrs *Temperature corrected-check with hydrometer NOTE: Due to condition temperature, etc. a given battery may require more or less time. This chart is only a guide. Check the state of charge periodically with a hydrometer.

APPROXIMATE CHARGING TIME

Figure 4 Typical battery charger hook-up with battery in the vehicle (negative ground vehicle). Connect the positive (+) cable to the battery and the negative (-) cable to a good engine ground.

Battery and charging safety precautions

Always follow these safety precautions when charging or handling a battery. 1. Wear eye protection when working around batteries. Batteries contain corrosive acid and produce explosive gas a byproduct of their operation. Acid on the skin should be neutralized with a solution of baking soda and water

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.

8.
9.

10.

made into a paste. In case acid contacts the eyes, flush with clear water and seek medical attention immediately. Avoid flame or sparks that could ignite the hydrogen gas produced by the battery and cause an explosion. Connection and disconnection of cables to battery terminals is one of the most common causes of sparks. Always turn a battery charger off, before connecting or disconnecting the leads. When connecting the leads, connect the positive lead first, then the negative lead, to avoid sparks. When lifting a battery, use a battery carrier or lift at opposite corners of the base. Be sure there is good ventilation in a room where the battery is being charged. Do not attempt to charge or load-test a maintenance-free battery when the charge indicator dot is yellow or clear, or otherwise indicating insufficient electrolyte.. Disconnect the negative battery cable if the battery is to remain in the vehicle during the charging process. Be sure the ignition switch is OFF before connecting or turning the charger ON. Sudden power surges can destroy electronic components. Use proper adapters to connect charger leads to side terminal batteries. When turning the charger ON, slowly increase the charge rate. If gassing or spewing occurs, turn the charger OFF.