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A Personal Computer (PC) is a computer, in a small cabinet or case (above illustration), that is sized to fit on a desk. It can be in different cabinet configurations such as a mini-tower, tower, laptop, desktop, etc. A PC normally consists of a monitor, a cabinet, a keyboard, a mouse, one or more floppy drives, and one or more hard disk drives. In the majority of cases, a PC will also contain a CD-ROM, a MODEM, and other components. BASIC PC COMPONENTS
Monitor Keyboard Motherboards Central Processing Units (CPU) Floppy Drive(s) Hard Drive(s) CD-ROM Enhancements:
1. MODEM 2. Sound Card 3. Mouse, etc.,
PC MONITORS
The terms "monitor", "crt", and "display" are often used to mean the same thing - the screen on which you are seeing this text. They are actually different things - the crt or display is the image producing device (the cathode ray tube (CRT)), and the monitor is the the box containing the controls and support circuitry to the display. The monitor contains the buttons, yoke, connectors for electric power and to connect to the video card in your PC. The resolution of a screen is normally the number of pixels that used to display a full screen image, or you might say the "fineness" of the detail that it can display. It is really a function of both screen size and something called "dot-pitch". The Video Adapter Card is another component that helps with total picture quality. The information going to the monitor or CRT must pass through the video adapter, and the the video adapter must be able to send information to the screen in the format required and at the proper speeds. However, for a video card to work properly, you must have a high quality monitor.
PC KEYBOARDS
The "keyboard" is the primary input device for a user. It is similar to a typewriter keyboard as for as its key locations; however, a computer keyboard has many extra keys which perform special functions.
PC MOTHERBOARDS
The motherboard is the board that contains the logic circuits that tie all parts of your PC together. It provides the connectors for the CPU, the memory, BIOS, CMOS, Video devices, sound devices, storage devices, chipsets, etc. in order to form an integrated set of components.
This illustration is just to show what a motherboard looks like. It has each of the following components, and a lot more. The problem is to tell you where each of them is: 1. Expansion Slots (4 - long black slots at upper left) 2. PCI Expansion Slots (4 - mid length white slots in middle) 3. Pentium II CPU Slot (long slot near right edge) 4. Memory (SIMM) bank (4 white slots to right of PCI slots). 5. Memory (DIMM) bank (2 gray/black slots to right of SIMM slots). 6. CPU (Microprocessor)Slot - (lower right, 2nd from bottom) 7. External Cache (L2) (integrated into Pentium II CPU) 8. ROM Chip (BIOS Chip) 9. Clock Oscillator and more The motherboard also contains other components such as BIOS chips, the CPU clock, cache chips, bus, etc. To see every detail, you will need to get a "User's Manual" for the specific motherboard you have, and to locate all components on the board. The bus is actually a set of circuits that run throughout the board and connect all the expansion slots, memory, and CPU, etc. together
MOTHERBOARD CHIPSET
The "Chipset" is the set of components that control most of the activities that take place on the motherboard, and interfaces most of the parts of the motherboard. First, the "chipset" is more than just the BIOS and the CPU. In fact, the CPU is not actually part of the CHIP set, but the chipset specifies what components the system will support. Among them are: 1. The type and number of CPU slots. 2. Size and type of L2 cache. 3. Type of DRAM you can use. 4. Amount of DRAM. 5. DRAM Error Correction Code 6. Universal Serial Bus support 7. PCI Specifications And more....
PC MEMORY
MEMORY is only one of the REQUIRED hardware components of a PC. It is not more important, nor less important than the other components of your PC. But much of our modern day software will not operate efficiently, if at all, without "gobs" of memory. MEMORY is a term that is used to represent storage that has "almost" instantaneous access by the CPU or other processor. Every computer will have some type of memory. However, the memory we speak of the most often is Random Access Memory (RAM). RAM is the primary memory used when we "boot" (start up) a microprocessor and the PC's operating system and device drivers are loaded into RAM. RAM has many functions, but its primary function is to store programs and drivers for the various system devices. It is probably the most important type of memory in your PC.
When you enter a command from your keyboard, the CPU (microprocessor) processes the command and calls for data (a program or data file) to be copied from a storage device (hard disk, floppy, CD-ROM, etc.) into memory, where it is stored temporarily until the CPU needs it. The memory then provides the data to the CPU more quickly than from the storage device. This data may be a program and actual data. This bulk memory is called "RAM", and is what you are referring to when you say "my system has 8, 16, 32 MB of memory". RANDOM ACCESS MEMORY (RAM). RAM MEMORY provides the work areas where your operating system (DOS, Win95, NT, etc.), and applications are loaded and perform their functions. RAM holds temporary instructions and data needed to complete a task! RAM consists of chips of memory, either in short chips (Dual In-line Pin (DIP) chips) or in memory modules called "Single Inline Memory Module" SIMMs, "Single Inline Pin Packets" SIPPs, DIMMs (Dual In-Line Memory Modules), etc.
PC BUSES
The PC's bus is the circuitry that ties all the devices on your motherboard together. The bus concept is to: "extend and link the signals of your system"; however, you have to know what it means to understand it. In this 1. 2. 3. 4. section we will discuss: Bus Basics Bus Types Multiple Buses Bus Standards
BUS BASICS: To understand a PC's bus, you must be aware that a computer has many components such as a Central Processing Unit (microprocessor), clocks, storage devices, input/output devices, etc. These devices must be linked together to perform a function. The 'bus' (or should I say 'BUSES'?) provides a highway for passing information between the devices on the system. Since this is not an electrical engineering level tutorial, let me say that the bus ties these devices together, so that a signal from your keyboard is displayed on your screen (CRT); a record from a file on a hard disk drive is read into memory and processed at the direction of your CPU; a file is sent to a printer for printing, etc. SO, electrical signals representating information flows along the bus from one device to another. Your computer may contain several types of buses, among them are: 1. CPU bus or 'system' bus. 2. An address bus 3. Memory bus 4. I/O or Expansion Bus and they are all located on the motherboard! There is a new bus called the "Universal Serial Bus" that connects to the motherboard, and some consider the wires between the connector and the devices attached to it to be the bus. When we speak of the 'bus', most of us are speaking of the 'expansion' bus. Most external devices and storage devices will be connected to the I/O bus through the local bus. External devices are usually connected to "expansion" cards (like this illustration) or controllers which are placed in an "expansion" bus slot located on the motherboard. Electronic circuitry connects the expansion slots together and connects to the system bus. Each of the expansion slots have an address, used to route information to a particular expansion card installed in the expansion slot. Other devices also have addresses such as the keyboard, the memory, etc. Buses have many factors that affect their performance and that must be considered and solved for them to function: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Data Sharing Addressing Power Timing Flow Control System Control
BUS TYPES:
There are several "bus" standards, among them are: Industry Standard Architecture (ISA). Peripheral Component Interface (PCI) Universal Serial Bus (USB)
ISA BUS
From about 1984 on, every PC had a standard bus which was used for I/O tasks. That was the ISA (Industry Standard Architecture) bus. Right up until about 1999 there were still ISA slots in most PCs. In the later years, however, they were only kept for compatibility, so that plug-in cards of the old ISA type could be re-used. This was particularly the case for sound cards from SoundBlaster; they worked quite well on the ISA bus, and many games were programmed to directly exploit this type of hardware. It therefore took many years to get away from the ISA bus, but we have managed to now. The ISA bus is not used much today, but it had enormous significance in the years up until the middle of the 1990s. The ISA bus had twofaces in the old PC architecture: An internal ISA bus, which the simple ports (the keyboard, floppy disk and serial/parallel ports) were connected to. An external expansion bus, to which 16-bit ISA adapters could be connected.
As you grew older, you learned; as the operating system is loaded the computer learns enough to operate. When you turn on your computer, something called the "BOOT PROCESS" takes place. The boot process is essentially the "Power On Self-Tests (POST)" EVERY PART of a PC must be functioning to truly process data into information! When you turn on your computer the boot process performs the "POST" test after the ROM BIOS is loaded into memory: The "POST" tests are made to determine if all its parts are in working order. The POST process consists of checking each of the following parts of the computer: 1. CPU 2. Power System 3. Speaker 4. Disk Drives 5. Monitor 6. Keyboard 7. Memory 8. etc. The POST process is responsible for the "beeps" you hear when booting, and also the messages the error messages such as: "keyboard error press to continue for setup" ROM BIOS program starts the POST tests using permanent records stored on chips and the steps are: 1. The CPU to checks itself and the POST programs. 2. Sends signals over the system bus to all devices to make sure they are working. 3. The "kernel" and the timing are checked. 4. Memory on the display adapter is tested, and the adapter's BIOS code is made a part of the system's BIOS and memory configuration. 5. RAM is tested to make sure all RAM chips are working properly. 6. Checks to see the keyboard is working properly. 7. Checks to see if the Disk Drives are working. 8. Compares the results of the POST tests against CMOS to see if what it found matches the CMOS setup record. 9. Finds devices that have their own BIOS and includes it in the system BIOS. 10. Newer systems may run a "Plug and Play (PnP) operation. If everything in the POST worked, the PC is now going to load the operating system.
Integrated Drive Electronics (IDE) DRIVE & INTERFACE: Integrated Drive Electronics (IDE) is the name for the AT Attachment (ATA) design, and IDE has the drive controller built into the drive itself. Still, an IDE can connect to the motherboard bus by connectors embedded in the motherboard, or by connecting to an expansion card in an ISA or PCI slot. The cost of producing a motherboard with the embedded IDE connectors is less than having an additional controller board installed in an expansion slot. Consequently, most motherboards available today will have multiple embedded IDE connectors.
CONNECTORS
Most modern motherboards have two IDE connectors (a Primary and a Secondary IDE connector), as well as an "auto-detect" for IDE boards. An IDE connector is a 40-pin plug. You can only attach two devices to an IDE cable. Most motherboards have two 40 pin connectors, as does most IDE expansion cards. So, if you have a motherboard with a built-in IDE interface, it will normally have 3 sets of connector pins. You can connect floppy drives, hard drives, CD-ROM drives, etc. However, you may want more drives, and if you elect to go IDE, you can purchase a "controller" card that you can place in an "expansion" slot on the motherboard. This will allow you to connect two additional cables for 4 more devices. An IDE connector interfaces to a maximum of two devices. The cable to connect devices is a flat ribbon cable with 3, 40 pin, connectors. The end of the cable with the connectors close together connects to the devices, and the long end connects to the IDE connector on the motherboard. One side of the cable has a RED edge. The RED edge goes to pin 1 on the device and pin 1 on the motherboard connector.
Hard disks
What we normally refer to as a "hard drive" is a storage with one or more metal disks (called platters), arranged on a spindle, one above the other; with a read/write head (most often on an arm that can be moved to a specific point on the recording surfaces. This read/write apparatus is probably the first true 'robot'.
Hard disks consist of one or more magnetic plates mounted in a metal box. The standard size (as in Fig. 213) is about 10 x 14.5 x 2.5 cm, and such a device can contain hundreds of gigabytes of data. Inside the box, a number of glass or metal plates whir around at, for example, 5400 or 7200 revolutions per minute these being the two most common speeds.
The read/write heads hover over the magnetic plates, and can transfer data at a tremendous speed:
Figure 214. One of the read/write heads, which can swing across the plates.
Enhanced IDE
The IDE standard wasnt especially fast, and couldnt handle hard disks bigger than 528 MB. So the ATA standard came out in the mid-1990s, and is still used today for cheap, high-performance, mass-produced hard disks. ATA is an enhanced edition of IDE, where the interface was moved from the ISA bus to the high-speed PCI bus. In principle, ATA (or parallel ATA) can be used for a number of different devices. The most common are: Hard disks, CD-ROM/DVD drives and burners. Other drives (such as the diskette formats, Zip and LS-120, etc.) and tape units. ATA was developed as a cheap, all-round interface, designed for the different types of drives.
These four channels are standard on todays motherboards using parallel ATA. Motherboards typically have connectors for two ATA cables, which can each connect two devices (master and slave). These rectangular, male ATA connectors are placed in a fairly accessible location, and are used to connect the ribbon cables which fit hard disks and CD/DVD drives.
If you use all four ATA connections, it might look like this: ATA connection Primary, master Secondary, master Secondary, slave Device Hard disk 1
Serial ATA is a high-speed serial interface in family with Ethernet, USB, FireWire and AMD's Hyper Transport. All these interfaces use a serial technology. They only have two channels: one receiving data and one transmitting them. This can be achieved with a very simple cabling. The data communication only requires 0,25 Volt compared to the 5 Volt of parallel ATA.
The original purpose of floppy drives was to store data and transport data in a useable form. Floppy diskettes were inexpensive and easy to handle. They are becoming somewhat overshadowed by today's technology of CD-ROM, ZIP, and JAZ drives. There are basically two popular sizes of floppy drives. (however, I consider there have been at least 4 types.): Type 1 = 5 1/4 inch Floppies. They are almost never used anymore. They are low capacity, and slow; however, they look like this:
Originally, 5 1/4 Inch floppies had 1 side and 185 KB space, they later were formatted at 360KB, and even later, you could format for 720 KB. Type 2 = 3.5 inch Floppies. These are still very popular; however, they are taking a back seat to CD-ROM for software distribution from most vendors. CD-ROM Storage (CPU) CD-ROM stands for Compact Disk - Read Only Memory. The actual CDROM disk looks similar to this:
CDs are the actual Compact Disks that you place in the CD-ROM drive. CDs hold approximately 650 MB of information. However, you must have a "CD-ROM" drive to be able to see or use the contents of a CD. You will need a "recordable" CDROM drive if you want to record on a CD. A compact disk (CD) is a plastic disk, coated with aluminum alloy. The "plastic" base is made of a polycarbonate wafer (if you want to know more, consult a chemical engineer). The CD is written to by a laser, and read by a laser. CDs are available in 63 and 74 minute versions.
ASSEMBLING
Preparing To Fit the Components
Overview of all components (from left to right and top to bottom): network adapter card; floppy disk drive; CD-ROM drive; sound card; hard disk; ribbon cable; graphics card; RAM; CPU cooler; and, motherboard. Fitting the Motherboard
Our case has a slide-out tray, which provides a very elegant way to install the motherboard and all of its components. Cheaper cases will have a mounting plate fixed permanently to the case. If you have this type, you should first lay the case on its side. Next, screw in the spacer mounts for fixing the motherboard. The photo shows six spacers already fitted to the mounting plate. There are usually more holes drilled in the mounting plate than you actually need. There are standard locations for these holes on the mounting plate, which correspond to the holes on the motherboard. How many of these are actually used depends on the board manufacturer. Cases are normally designed to accept any motherboard. Compare the available holes with the ones on your motherboard to determine where to fit the threaded spacers.
Spaced well away from the metal - the motherboard on the mounting plate. Installing The CPU And Cooler
When the processor is in its socket, push the lever back down. First, insert the CPU in its socket. To do this, raise the small lever at the side of the socket. If you examine the CPU from underneath, you will notice that there is a pin missing at one corner. Match this corner with the corner on the socket where there is a hole missing. The processor is keyed in this way to make sure it is inserted correctly. Please bear in mind that you should not force the CPU when inserting it! All pins should slide smoothly into the socket. If you are sure that you have positioned the CPU correctly (using the missing pin as reference), yet are unable to insert the CPU, it is likely that one of its pins is bent. If this has happened, straighten the pin using tweezers or a screwdriver. Once you have installed the processor, lock the lever back down. Don't Forget To Use Thermal Paste or a Thermal Pad
Applying thermal paste to the processor. You must apply thermal paste or a thermal pad to the top of the CPU. This will help to transfer heat from the processor to the cooler. Failure to apply a thermally conductive medium to the processor can cause it to fail! Unless you use thermal paste, any slight misalignment of the contact surface of the cooler, or
even the presence of tiny specks of dust, will prevent heat from being efficiently transferred away from the processor. Thermal paste also fills the microscopic valleys in the contact surface of the CPU (known as the die). Some cooler manufacturers supply thermal paste with their products. If yours did not, it is available from most good computer or electronics stores and costs around two to three dollars. Mounting the Cooler A cooler made of copper is recommended, since this material is a very efficient heat conductor.
Make sure that the cooler is in the correct position. Here is the cooler about to be connected with the socket.
Plenty of air flow. Here is the power connection for the cooler's fan. You may have wondered why the connector lead for the fan has three wires. Two of these carry the power; the third is used for monitoring the speed of the fan. Therefore, the BIOS is always aware of the speed at which the fan is running.
Attaching a Pentium cooler Installing the RAM The RAM must be suitable for the motherboard. There are currently three types of RAM available: SDRAM, DDR SDRAM and RDRAM. The motherboard's chipset determines which type of RAM may be used. You will find the specification on the motherboard's box or in the motherboard manual.
Installing RAM. A notch at the bottom of the memory module ensures that the RAM is fitted correctly. The notch is located in different places on SDRAM, DDR SDRAM and RDRAM. DIMM memory modules have a notch underneath that lines up with a key on the memory slots. Although it is not possible to insert the modules the wrong way, you should line up the RAM with its slot before installing it. Then, carefully press the module into the slot. Caution is recommended, as too much pressure may damage certain tracks on the motherboard. It is best to push one side down first, and then the other. The notch will snap into its key as soon as one side is seated correctly. To make sure it is seated correctly, you can always take the memory module out again. Releasing the clips will pop the module out of its socket. Then, you can just lift it out.
Passed the first hurdle. Motherboard with processor, cooler and memory.
In place - sound card (left) and graphics card (center) in white PCI slots. There is room for a network card, if required. Nowadays, graphics cards are usually fitted in the AGP slots provided specifically for this purpose. These are brown in color, in contrast to the PCI slots, and are generally located in the center of the motherboard. PCI graphics cards are rarely used. Now, select a PCI slot for each of your other plug-in cards, including the sound card. Before fitting an expansion card, remove the appropriate slot insert from the back panel of the case (or of the motherboard tray). As a rule, you need to undo a screw to do this, although sometimes convenient plastic clips are used. The insert may also form part of the back panel. Installing the Hard Disk And Floppy We assume that you have already configured your hard disk the way you want it - single, master, or slave. The photo below shows the hard disk already fitted. As you can see, we can look right through the case here. If we had slid the motherboard tray back into position, it would have been impossible to screw the hard disk in from the left.
At the moment, we still have good access to the hard disk (bottom) and the floppy drive (top). You can see the screws for the drive on the side. Use two screws per side on each drive. We would like to touch briefly on the topic of drive cooling, as it is quite important with the current 7,200 rpm drives. Hard
disks running at 7,200 rpm can quickly reach temperatures in excess of 50C. You should, therefore, always leave some space above them to prevent heat buildup. The power supply fan is normally powerful enough to provide adequate air circulation inside the case. Installing The CD-ROM Drive Installing a CD-ROM drive is similar to installing a hard disk. First, check that the jumper configuration is correct.
CD Drive in Drive Cage. You only get to see the metal below the decorative plastic front panel when installing your system; the case metal is actually hidden by plastic panels. The entire front section, or at least the part where the drives will be installed, is manufactured from a single, large piece of metal, in which the drive holes are then punched. In practice, there are two options. If the metal knockouts are pre-stamped, you have to either take them out using metal cutters, or knock them out using force. If you have a high quality computer case, you can remove and replace these metal panels whenever you like. Check carefully to see if there is an easy way to remove these panels that will reduce the chances of your accidentally damaging one or more of them. When we have opened up the hole, we can feed the CD-ROM drive in and screw it into place. You will need the fine-threaded type screws. Always use four screws. Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, as excess pressure can put a strain on the case that could lead to twisting. The faster a drive's rotational speed, the more serious the effect. Tighten the screws only enough to ensure that the drive is secure. Heat is a consideration with CD-ROM drives, as it is with disk drives. Drive Power Connectors
Four-pole for 5 and 12 volts. Disk drive power connector on the right next to the ribbon cable. Power supplies are fitted with at least five plugs for delivering power to the drives. If you need more than this, consider buying one or more splitter cables. A splitter cable provides two connectors from a single one. The corners of the plugs and sockets are keyed to ensure correct polarity. Floppy drives have smaller plugs, which are easily recognized among the cables coming from the power supply. Finally, there is the large ATX plug that plugs into the power socket on the motherboard. ATX12 or P6 should be connected where required. The latter provides extra power for power-hungry processors, as you already learned in Part 1. Opening the Empty Case
Empty case with motherboard tray withdrawn. Our tower case is built to ATX specification and includes a 300-watt power supply. Two side panels can be individually removed after undoing the screws. Some other cases have a one-piece outer cover in the shape of an upside down 'U.' No matter how the case is constructed, you can normally gain access to the interior of the PC-to-be from both sides. The price of a case is a good indicator of its modularity and build quality. Cheaper cases often force you to assemble the PC in a specific order, are made of softer and/ or thinner metal, and may contain sharp edges. Expensive cases provide clever design features, a more solid construction, better finish, and are often fitted with more capable power supplies. When you have opened the case by removing the side panels, you will see what accessories the case manufacture has supplied. A power cord and screws should always be included, and you will also often find a set of case feet.
Disassembly
Disassembling a computer is a straightforward task. In most cases, you will need to remove little more than the outer cover or shroud of the case to gain access to the memory, expansions slots/cards, and the CPU. Because there are many manufacturers, each seeking to establish its own unique marketing identity, each brand has some custom components or layout. The best strategy for efficient disassembly is to locate and use the manual that came with the computer. Often, manuals don't provide a lot of technical information, but they usually tell you how to remove the cover. The extent to which you will have to disassemble a computer depends on the specific problem or repair. Following the following procedure will help you establish a routine for completely and efficiently disassembling most computers: 1. Make a complete backup of necessary operating-system and working files. 2. Document the system (hardware and software). 3. Create a clean work area with plenty of room and light. 4. Gather all the necessary tools for the job. 5. Implement safety procedures. (See Chapter 13, "The Basics of Electrical Energy," and Chapter 19, "Maintaining Computer Hardware," for details.) 6. Turn off the computer. 7. Disconnect the power cables. 8. Wear an antistatic wrist strap. 9. Locate the screws for the covercheck the manual to discover the location of the screws (sides or back). 10. Remove the screws. It's a good idea to store them in a box or plastic tube to keep them from getting lost. 11. Remove the cover from the computer. 12. Document the location of expansion cards and drives. 13. Remove all the cards and place them in antistatic bags. 14. Document the location and connections for each drive (pay special attention to the red wire on the data cablesthis identifies the location of pin 1 on the device and driver). 15. Remove the data and power supply cables. 16. Remove the drives from their appropriate bayslook on their sides for the screws (check the manuals). 17. Remove the motherboard
233 MHz minimum required (single or dual processor system);* Intel Pentium/Celeron family, or AMD K6/Athlon/Duron family, or compatible processor recommended.
2. 128 megabytes (MB) of RAM or higher recommended (64 MB minimum supported; may limit performance and some features) 3. 1.5 gigabytes (GB) of available hard disk space 4. Super VGA (800 x 600) or higher-resolution video adapter and monitor 5. CD-ROM or DVD drive 6. Keyboard and Microsoft Mouse or compatible pointing device INSTALLATION PROCEDURE: 1. First Enter the BIOS Setup and set the First boot device as CD-ROM. 2. Save Changes and Exit. 3. After the system reboots, the setup wizard continues 4. Press the Enter Button to continue the Installation process.
6. To create a new partition out of Unpartitioned space, use the arrow keys
to select the Unpartitioned space, then press C. 7. Type in the size of the partition you want to create out of the unpartitioned space. The default size listed is the maximum size that can be created. After you have typed in a number, press Enter 8. Use the arrow keys to select the newly created partition 9. Press Enter to install Windows XP into the selected partition
10. Select the file system to format the partition. Use the arrow keys to select
the file system. 11. Press Enter to initiate formatting. A progress of the formatting action is displayed 12. After formatting is complete, files are copied to the destination partition. This might take 10 minutes 13. After the file copy procedure completes, the system automatically reboots 14. After it's rebooted, Setup launches a basic Windows GUI environment. After performing numerous operations (these could take 10 minutes or more), the Setup Wizard appears displaying the Regional and Language Options page. The defaults are for English and a US keyboard; if you require other settings, click the Customize of Details buttons to change them
Basically, there are two ways With a command-line operating system (e.g., DOS), you type a text command and the computer responds according to that command With a graphical user interface (GUI) operating system (e.g., Windows), you interact with the computer through a graphical interface with pictures and buttons by using the mouse and keyboard
One of the reasons of Linuxs popularity stems from the license under which it was released, the GNU General Public License. It ensures that the Linux source code is freely available to everyone, and everyone can contribute to its development. This effectively added thousands of programmers to the Linux development team. Despite of the concern that many cooks may spoil the soup, the fact is that the large number of Linux developers yielded an operating system of unprecedented efficiency and robustness, with countless freely available software packages for both business and pleasure Linux Advantages Low cost: You dont need to spend time and money to obtain licenses since Linux and much of its software come with the GNU General Public License. You can start to work immediately without worrying that your software may stop working anytime because the free trial version expires. Stability: Linux doesnt need to be rebooted periodically to maintain performance levels. It doesnt freeze up or slow down over time due to memory leaks and such. Continuous up-times of hundreds of days (up to a year or more) are not uncommon. Performance: Linux provides persistent high performance on workstations and on networks. It can handle unusually large numbers of users simultaneously Network friendliness: Linux was developed by a group of programmers over the Internet and has therefore strong support for network functionality; client and server systems can be easily set up on any computer running Linux. It can perform tasks such as network backups faster and more reliably than alternative systems
Flexibility: Linux can be used for high performance server applications, desktop applications, and embedded systems. You can save disk space by only installing the components needed for a particular use. You can restrict the use of specific computers by installing for example only selected office applications instead of the whole suite. Compatibility: It runs all common Unix software packages and can process all common file formats. Choice: The large number of Linux distributions gives you a choice. Each distribution is developed and supported by a different organization. You can pick the one you like best; the core functionalities are the same; most software runs on most distributions. Fast and easy installation: Most Linux distributions come with user-friendly installation and setup programs. Full use of hard disk: Linux continues work well even when the hard disk is almost full. Multitasking: Linux is designed to do many things at the same time; e.g., a large printing job in the background wont slow down your other work. Security: Linux is one of the most secure operating systems. Walls and flexible file access permission systems prevent access by unwanted visitors or viruses. Open source: If you develop software that requires knowledge or modification of the operating system code, Linuxs source code is at your fingertips
TASK 5 Command cat BASIC LINUX COMMANDS Example Description Sends file contents to standard output. This is a way to list the contents of short files to the screen. It works well with piping. cat .bashrc Sends the contents of the ".bashrc" file to the screen. Change directory cd /home Change the current working directory to /home. The '/' indicates relative to root, and no matter what directory you are in when you execute this command, the directory will be changed to "/home". cd httpd Change the current working directory to httpd, relative to the current location which is "/home". The full path of the new working directory is "/home/httpd". cd .. Move to the parent directory of the current directory. This command will make the current working directory "/home. cd ~ Move to the user's home directory which is "/home/username". The '~' indicates the users home directory. Copy files cp myfile yourfile Copy the files "myfile" to the file "yourfile" in the current working directory. This command will create the file "yourfile" if it doesn't exist. It will normally overwrite it without warning if it exists. cp -i myfile yourfile With the "-i" option, if the file "yourfile" exists, you will be prompted before it is overwritten. cp -i /data/myfile . Copy the file "/data/myfile" to the current working directory and name it "myfile". Prompt before overwriting the file. cp -dpr srcdir destdir Copy all files from the directory "srcdir" to the directory "destdir" preserving links (-p option), file attributes (-p option), and copy recursively (-r option). With these options, a directory and all it contents can be copied to another directory. Disk duplicate. The man page says this command is to "Convert and copy a file", but dd if=/dev/hdb1 although used by more advanced users, it can of=/backup/ be a very handy command. The "if" means input file, "of" means output file. Show the amount of disk space used on each mounted filesystem. Similar to the more command, but the user can less textfile page up and down through the file. The example displays the contents of textfile. Creates a symbolic link to a file. ln -s test symlink Creates a symbolic link named symlink that points to the file test Typing "ls -i test symlink"
cd
cp
dd
df less
ln
locate slocate -u
ls -al
mv mv -i myfile yourfile
mv -i /data/myfile . pwd more /etc/profile shutdown shutdown -h now shutdown -r now whereis whereis ls
will show the two files are different with different inodes. Typing "ls -l test symlink" will show that symlink points to the file test. A fast database driven file locator. This command builds the slocate database. It will take several minutes to complete this command. This command must be used before searching for files, however cron runs this command periodically on most systems. Lists all files whose names contain the string "whereis". Logs the current user off the system. List files List files in the current working directory except those starting with . and only show the file name. List all files in the current working directory in long listing format showing permissions, ownership, size, and time and date stamp Allows file contents or piped output to be sent to the screen one page at a time. Lists the contents of the "/etc/profile" file to the screen one page at a time. Performs a directory listing of all files and pipes the output of the listing through more. If the directory listing is longer than a page, it will be listed one page at a time. Move or rename files Move the file from "myfile" to "yourfile". This effectively changes the name of "myfile" to "yourfile". Move the file from "myfile" from the directory "/data" to the current working directory. Show the name of the current working directory Lists the contents of the "/etc/profile" file to the screen one page at a time. Shuts the system down. Shuts the system down to halt immediately. Shuts the system down immediately and the system reboots. Show where the binary, source and manual page files are for a command Locates binaries and manual pages for the ls command.
System Administration Commands : BASIC LINUX COMMANDS IN BASH: cal Display a calendar cal [-mjy] [[month] year] SYNTAX
cat Display the contents of a file cd Change Directory chgrp Change group ownership chmod Change access permissions chown Change file owner and group cp Copy one or more files to another location date Display or change the date & time df Display free disk space dir Briefly list directory contents ls List information about file(s) man Help manual mkdir Create new folder(s) mount Mount a file system mv Move or rename files or directories passwd Modify a user password pwd Print Working Directory rm Remove files rmdir Remove folder(s) shutdown Shutdown or restart linux su Substitute user identity touch Change file timestamps useradd Create new user account
who whoami
Print all usernames currently logged in Print the current user id and name (`id -un')
You'll need to start by logging in as root. If you're not sure how to do that, read Logging in and out as Root. ----------------------Hardlinks Let's do a little experiment to demonstrate the case. Make a new directory called Test and then move into it. to do that, type: $ mkdir Test $ cd Test Then make a file called FileA: $ vi FileA Press the I key to enter Insert mode: i Then type in some funny lines of text (like "Why did the chicken cross the road?") and save the file by typing: Esc ZZ So, you made a file called FileA in a new directory called "Test" in your /home. It contains an old and maybe not so funny joke. Now, let's make a hardlink to FileA. We'll call the hardlink FileB. $ ln FileA FileB Then use the "i" argument to list the inodes for both FileA and its hardlink. Type: $ ls -il FileA FileB This is what you get: 1482256 -rw-r--r-1482256 -rw-r--r-2 bruno bruno 2 bruno bruno 21 May 5 15:55 FileA 21 May 5 15:55 FileB
You can see that both FileA and FileB have the same inode number (1482256). Also both files have the same file permissions and the same size. Because that size is reported for the same inode, it does not consume any extra space on your HD! Next, remove the original FileA: $ rm FileA And have a look at the content of the "link" FileB: $ cat FileB
You will still be able to read the funny line of text you typed. Hardlinks are cool. Symlinks Staying in the same test directory as above, let's make a symlink to FileB. Call the symlink FileC: $ ln -s FileB FileC Then use the i argument again to list the inodes. $ ls -il FileB FileC This is what you'll get: 1482256 -rw-r--r-1 bruno bruno 1482226 lrwxrwxrwx 1 bruno bruno 21 May 5 15:55 FileB 5 May 5 16:22 FileC -> FileB
You'll notice the inodes are different and the symlink got a "l" before the rwxrwxrwx. The link has different permissions than the original file because it is just a symbolic link. Its real content is just a string pointing to the original file. The size of the symlink (5) is the size of its string. (The "-> FileB" at the end shows you where the link points to.) Now list the contents: $ cat FileB $ cat FileC They will show the same funny text. Now if we remove the original file: $ rm FileB and check the Test directory: $ ls You'll see the symlink FileC is still there, but if you try to list the contents: $ cat FileC It will tell you that there is no such file or directory. You can still list the inode. Typing: $ ls -il FileC will still give you: 1482226 lrwxrwxrwx 1 bruno bruno 5 May 5 16:22 FileC -> FileB
But the symlink is obsolete because the original file was removed, as were all the hard links. So the file was deleted even though the symlink remains. (Hope you're still following.)
OK. The test is over, so you can delete the Test directory: $ cd .. $ rm -rf Test
Note: Be cautious using "rm -rf"; it's very powerful. If someone tells you to do "rm -rf /" as root, you might loose all your files and directories on your / partition! Not good advice. Now you know how to create (and remove) hardlinks and symlinks to make it easier to access files and run programs. See you on the links!
Another powerful improvement, especially useful to computer technicians, is its ability to troubleshoot hardware and software problems. Although the new Plug and Play hardware takes a lot of the work out of installing and troubleshooting, there are still times when hardware and software doesn't work correctly and we must apply our skills. The best way to repair a failure is to prevent it from happening in the first place. It is a well-known fact of life that failures occur at the most inopportune times. A little preventive maintenance can minimize the impact by either catching and repairing the failure before it happens, or preventing it altogether.
Check the Power Supply Check the Motherboard Check the CPU Read our Beep Codes List Check the Keyboard Check the Video Card Check the Memory Check the Motherboard Make sure the monitor has power Check the connection to the video card Check the Video Card Check the Hard Disk Check the Memory Check the Motherboard Check the CPU Check the Keyboard Check the Video Card Check the Memory Check the Power Supply Check the Motherboard Check the CPU
When I turn it on... It freezes BEFORE the operating system starts loading
This is probably a software problem not covered in this hardware guide. If you are using Windows, try booting into safe mode by holding down the "F8" key or in some cases the "CONTROL" key.
operating system is loading While it is on... It makes a screeching or other loud noise While it is on... It shuts itself off Check the Power Supply Check the Power Supply, CPU, Case or other Internal Fans Check the CD-ROM Check the Hard Disk Check the Floppy Drive Check the power features in the BIOSCheck the power features in the Windows Control Panel
Symptom I cannot access the drive and the light does not go on
Check
Check that the power and controller cables are securely attached to the drive. Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard. The operating system may not be configured to use or "see" the drive. If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive are set correctly. The CD may be damaged or unreadable. Try removing and reinserting the disk. Try cleaning the CD. Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard. If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive are set correctly. Press the button once and wait at least a minute. In Windows, go to "My Computer", right click on the CDROM drive and choose "Eject" from the menu. With the computer unplugged, you can open most CDROM drawers with a unwound paper clip. Poke it, as straight as possible, into the hole and push with moderate force (the paper clip may bend a little) to force the drawer
open a half inch. Now pull the drawer the rest of the way open. If the problem persists, check that the power connector and controller cable are securely connected to the drive. A CD may be jammed or broken inside the drive. Access may require the removal of the drive's outer case. If this is necessary, it is very likely that the drive will have to be replaced. The CD may be damaged or unreadable. Try removing and reinserting the disk. Try cleaning the CD. Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard. If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive are set correctly. Is the drive on the same controller cable as the primary hard drive? If so, performance will be slowed because only one device can communicate at a time. Move it to the second IDE controller.
Symptom
Check
Check that the power connector is properly and securely connected. Check that the interface cable to properly and securely connected to both the drive and the motherboard. The interface cable may be reversed. Check the connection to the drive and to the motherboard. Check for proper configuration in CMOS. The floppy drive may need to be replaced. The floppy disk may be defective. The drive may not be properly configured in CMOS.
You may be using the wrong floppy disk density for your drive. Refresh the view. Reinsert the disk, making sure it goes in all the way. Check that the interface cable to properly and securely connected to both the drive and the motherboard. The floppy drive may need to be replaced. There is no disk in the floppy drive. Reinsert the disk, making sure it goes in all the way. The floppy drive may need to be replaced. The disk in the drive is not formatted. You may be using the wrong floppy disk density for your drive. The drive is out of alignment. The drive is out of alignment.
Check
The fan on the graphics card may need to be cleaned or it may be failing. The fan on most cards is not replaceable. Check that the monitor is turned on. Most have a light to indicate power and another to indicate that it is receiving a signa;l from the PC. Check that the video cable's connectors are securely and properly fastened to the graphics card and on some models to the monitor. Check that no pins are bent or miossing from the connector. Unplug the PC and make sure the graphics card is securely and properly installed into it's slot. The resolution is not set correctly in Windows. Go into the display settings in the Control Panel, and change the
resolution settings. The monitor may have controls that allow you to adjust the size and position of the display. Use the monitor's controls to move or resize the display. You may need to install a different or updated driver for your graphics card and/or monitor. Reset the display's refresh rate in the Windows Control Panel. Do not use a refresh rate that is not supported by your monitor or damage may result. The color depth is not set correctly in Windows. Go into the display settings in the Control Panel, and change the resolution settings. You may need to install a different or updated driver for your graphics card and/or monitor. The color depth and/or resolution is not set correctly in Windows. Go into the display settings in the Control Panel, and change the resolution settings. You may need to install a different or updated driver for your graphics card and/or monitor
Symptom
Check
Click on underlined items for further information
Check that the power and controller cables are securely attached to the drive. Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard. The operating system may not be configured to use or "see" the drive. If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive are set correctly. The CD may be damaged or unreadable. Try removing and reinserting the disk. Try cleaning the CD. Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard.
If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive are set correctly. Press the button once and wait at least a minute. In Windows, go to "My Computer", right click on the CDROM drive and choose "Eject" from the menu. With the computer unplugged, you can open most CDROM drawers with a unwound paper clip. Poke it, as straight as possible, into the hole and push with moderate force (the paper clip may bend a little) to force the drawer open a half inch. Now pull the drawer the rest of the way open. If the problem persists, check that the power connector and controller cable are securely connected to the drive. A CD may be jammed or broken inside the drive. Access may require the removal of the drive's outer case. If this is necessary, it is very likely that the drive will have to be replaced. The CD may be damaged or unreadable. Try removing and reinserting the disk. Try cleaning the CD. Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard. If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive are set correctly. Is the drive on the same controller cable as the primary hard drive? If so, performance will be slowed because only one device can communicate at a time. Move it to the second IDE controller.
Other problems, such as failure to write, unreadable disks and slow operation are generally related to software issues.
Symptom
The hard disk is spinning at high speed inside its enclosure. This may be the sound you hear. If it powers down to conserve energy, you may hear it occasionally speed up when data is being accessed or written. If the sound is new or unusually loud, it could be an
indication of a hard disk failure. Back up any critical data before taking further action. I hear a ratcheting or "tick tock" sound As the drive reads and writes data, the heads are moving. This may be the sound you are hearing and it may not be a cause for concern. If the sound is new or unusually loud, it could be an indication of a hard disk failure. Back up any critical data before taking further action. The boot sector of the drive may be damaged. This may require a reformat of the drive. (Reformatting wipes out all programs and data). The drive may failed and requires replacement. The PC is unable to communicate with the hard drive. It may simply be a loose power connector, or interface cable. Check the cables to the hard disk. The power supply has failed and needs to be replaced. You may have a boot sector virus or otherwise damaged boot sector. Scan with an up to date virus scanner.
The PC starts to boot but the Operating system never starts, or I get a message similar to "Cannot load Operating System"
I can access the hard disk only after booting from a floppy I get a "Hard Disk Failure" message
The PC is unable to communicate with the hard drive. It may simply be a loose power connector, or interface cable. Check the cables to the hard disk. The power supply could be failing. If this is a newly installed drive, the drive may not be properly formatted or BIOS settings may need to be changed.
Unplug and replug the network connector into the NIC and at the other end. Check that the other end of the cable is connected to a device that is powered on. Try switching the cable to a different port if available.
Try a different network cable. Check the control panel in Windows to make sure the card is recognized and working. Check that the far end of the network cable is connected to the proper port, or try a different port. Check that your PC is not using an IP address that is already in use on your network. Make certain that your PC is not using a name that is already in use by another PC on the network. Make certain that other network devices are powered on. Make certain that your PC is configured with the proper Workgroup or Domain name. Check that your PC is not using an IP address that is already in use on your network. Make certain that your PC is not using a name that is already in use by another PC on the network. Allow up to 20 minutes for network polling to identify all available resources. Check the network cable connections and use a different port if available. If Windows is configured for more than one NIC, make certain that the correct one is being used for this network.
The lights on the NIC are normal but I cannot connect to the network
The power supply may have been damaged. The motherboard may have been damaged. The memory modules may have been damaged. The CPU may have been damaged. The power supply may have failed and needs to be replaced. The power supply may not be properly connected to the motherboard. The memory modules are not properly installed or have failed. The motherboard may have failed. The CPU is not properly installed or has failed. Many things can cause random freeze ups, software is the most common cause. The CPU is the least likely of all things to cause freeze ups. The power supply could be overheating, check that the fan is working. The power supply could be failing. See also your BIOS and Control Panel power settings. The CPU may be overheating, check the CPU fan.
Nothing happens when I turn on the PC but I do hear the fan running.
Symptom The key repeats too fast (or slow) I try to type one letter and it types several The PC beeps or gives me a "Keyboard Error" message
The character repeat rate or delay is set too fast. Go to the Windows control panel and click on "Keyboard" to change the settings.
Turn off the PC and check that the keyboard connector is securely plugged into the back of the PC. Make sure the keyboard is not plugged into the mouse port. If you are using a USB keyboard, make sure USB is
enabled in BIOS and in Windows. The keys are sticking Check that none of the keys are stuck or being held down. Turn the keyboard upside down and shake it vigorously to dislodge any dust or debris. Try removing the key by using a paper clip as a lever to pop it off. Check for debris or other cause of sticking, clean with a cotton swab. With the key off, make sure any spring or mechanical parts are properly positioned to support the key.
The power supply fan is failing and needs replacement. In most cases, the entire power supply must be replaced. Check that it is securely plugged into the outlet and into the back of the PC. Check that the outlet has power. Check for a second power switch near the power supply. The main power switch has failed and needs to be replaced. The power supply has failed and needs to be replaced. If the power supply does not supply the proper, stable voltages to the various components it may prevent the PC from starting. The voltages can be tested with a multimeter. The power supply could be overheating, check that the fan is working. The power supply could be failing. See also your BIOS and Control Panel power settings.
Symptom I cannot access the drive and the light does not go on
Check
Check that the power and controller cables are securely attached to the drive. Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard. The operating system may not be configured to use or "see" the drive. If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive are set correctly. The disk may be damaged or unreadable. Try removing and reinserting the disk. Try cleaning the disk. Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard. If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive are set correctly. Press the button once and wait at least a minute. In Windows, go to "My Computer", right click on the DVDROM drive and choose "Eject" from the menu. With the computer unplugged, you can open most DVDROM drawers with a unwound paper clip. Poke it, as straight as possible, into the hole and push with moderate force (the paper clip may bend a little) to force the drawer open a half inch. Now pull the drawer the rest of the way open. If the problem persists, check that the power connector and controller cable are securely connected to the drive. A disk may be jammed or broken inside the drive. Access may require the removal of the drive's outer case. If this is necessary, it is very likely that the drive will have to be replaced. The disk may be damaged or unreadable. Try removing and reinserting the disk. Try cleaning the disk. Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard. If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive are set correctly. Is the drive on the same controller cable as the primary hard drive? If so, performance will be slowed because only one device can communicate at a time. Move it to the second IDE controller.
In addition to all of the above, consider these things: Compatability issues can prevent memory from being recognized. Use only manufacturer recommended memory. Turn off the PC and check that it is properly installed.
Turn off the PC and check that the memory is installed in the correct slot. The memory may not be compatible with existing memory. Remove all but the newly installed memory and test the PC.
Check
The power supply fan is failing and needs replacement. In most cases, the entire power supply must be replaced. The CPU fan is failing and needs replacement. Another cooling fan, such as a case, drive or auxiliary fan is failing and needs replacement. The power supply fan is failing and needs replacement. In most cases, the entire power supply must be replaced. The CPU fan is failing and needs replacement. Another cooling fan, such as a case, drive or auxiliary fan is failing and needs replacement. Any of the fans listed above are dirty and need to be cleaned. The system may be overheating because of inadequate cooling. Check that all cooling fans are working properly.
Use the wizard to create a new dial-up connection and configure it to dial your cell phone or other phone line to determine it you can make it ring. If newly installed, try uninstalling and reinstalling the device. Once installed correctly, this error is unusual and may mean the device is faulty and needs to be replaced. Some modems must be installed in a very precise order as dictated by the manufacturer. Be certain to closely follow the installation instructions. Consult the manufacturer's web site for a copy of the instructions or for an updated driver. Check if you have other programs running that are trying to use the modem at the same time
Unfortunately, the bad news is that troubleshooting software problems on PCs is unquestionably the hardest problem-solving task youre ever likely to run into (on your computer, that is). The reason for this is because of the Byzantine-like structure of todays PC applications and operating systems. In essence, the problem can be boiled down to this: All the various pieces of software on your computeryour main applications, the drivers for your specific peripherals, and the various Windows system fileswork together in an enormously complex web of inter-relationships. Adding, removing or altering one piece of that puzzle can (and often will) lead to software that just doesnt work. One good general rule of thumb to keep in mind when doing software-related troubleshooting is to make sure you have the most recent versions of your applications, drivers and operating system. Usually that means taking an inventory of the software and hardware you have installed on or in your computer, and then trolling the web sites of the companies who make those products in search of updates, patches, service packs and other types of bug fixes. Also remember to check for viruses. Most of the times you get a virus on your PC you'll know about it, but some of them work "stealthily" in the background, so you always have to be careful. Make sure that any computer you work on has good anti-virus software installed and properly configured so that it's regularly checking for viruses. Even more importantly, make sure that you keep the virus definition files for the program current. Unless you update those definitions on at least a monthly basis, your data will be at risk. Many of the software problems that people run into stem from the confusing nature of todays Windows applications. Instead of consisting of one large chunk of code (as they generally used to do, and still in many cases do on the Mac), todays software programs are actually made up of lots and lots of little pieces held together by an umbrella application. This umbrella app is typically the main program file you double-click on to get an application started. To confound matters further, these different pieces are often strewn across several different locations on your hard disk, which creates even more possibilities for errors or other breakdowns.