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People & Culture

july 2011

Daegu

Uncovering Myriad alleyways local scene grows with classics

art Progression

korean shiPbuilDing
the return of inDustry strength
ISSN: 2005-2162

www.korea.net

Contents
july 2011 VOL.7 NO.07
02
cover story
Koreas shipbuilding industry rises once more.

02

12
pen & brush
Poet Kim Seung-hee writes of the pains of time.

16
people
Park Tae-hwan prepares for his comeback.

18
great korean
Meet Woo Jang-choon, Koreas famed botanist.

20

seoul
Escape the frenzy of urban life at Nanji Camp.

22

travel
Explore the history of Daegu via winding alleys.

22

26

festival
Get down and dirty at Boryeong Mud Festival.

27

flavor
Revitalize with a bowl of samgyetang soup.

28
now in korea
Koreas art scene expands with global exhibits.

publisher Seo Kang-soo, Korean Culture and Information Service editing HEM KOREA Co., Ltd e-mail webmaster@korea.net printing Samsung Moonhwa Printing Co. All right reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without permission from KOrea and the Korean Culture and Information Service. The articles published in KOrea do not necessarily represent the views of the publisher. The publisher is not liable for errors or omissions. If you want to receive a free copy of KOrea or wish to cancel a subscription, please e-mail us. A downloadable PDF file of KOrea, and a map and glossary with common Korean words appearing in our text are available by clicking on the thumbnail of KOrea on the homepage of www.korea.net. 11-1110073-000016-06

32
entertainment
Are TV audition programs here to stay?

34
special issue
Park Ji-sung hosts the first Asian Dream Cup.

36
special issue
The Korean wave hits Europe with a splash.

38
summit diplomacy
President Lee meets with China and Japan.

42
global korea
International students are on the rise in Korea.

46
my korea
A Canadian learns to keep cool in summer.

36

cover story

Korea is home to three of the worlds largest shipyards. The small peninsular country, which yielded its decadelong lead in the industry last year, is set to rise once more as the No 1 shipbuilder. Armed with cutting-edge technology and skilled workers, Korea has made its way to the top from humble beginnings. by Kim Yoo-chul

Ascent of KoreAn shipbuilDinG


Topic Images

A view of a shipyard in Busan, on the southern coast of Korea.

heavily in the shipbuilding industry, as the military dictatorship believed it could help the war-stricken nation foster faster economic growth. Like Korea, which made shipbuilding a strategic sector, China is in the process of repeating the model with large, state-supported investments in the

well as more calls for offshore and energy-related vessels, were pushing shipbuilding stocks to rise. Korea has proven its ability to deliver valuable ships on time, and clients are willing to pay more for the service. The next milestone will be the recovery of ship prices to levels before the 2008

the construction of drill ships, liquefied natural gas (LNG) tankers, container ships and FPSO projects. The worlds fifth-largest shipbuilder, STX Offshore & Shipbuilding, is winning orders similar to the top-tier local shipyards. Last month, STX won US$550 million-worth of orders from

Korea, home to the worlds largest shipyards, knows just how critical the shipbuilding industry is for the health of the nations economy. This is because the performance of shipbuilders has a significant ripple effect on the countrys trade and other ancillary services. Despite being hit by a slew of cancellations and declining ship prices in the aftermath of the global economic crisis, the nation is now preparing to make a comeback, with local shipbuilders leading the way. Last year, China surpassed Korea as the worlds top shipbuilder, but officials say this year will be different, citing a legion of orders they believe will help overcome the neighboring nation. Beijing contributed to an overall commodity-vessel glut by providing financing to Chinese yards and securing jobs during the global financial crisis. China has more than 3,000 shipbuilders, including roughly 1,000 that are able to build vessels that can travel in deep seas, according to data from the Korean government. As of the end of 2010, China was the No 1 shipbuilder in terms of compensated gross tons (CGT) of ships, with a total of 15.9 million tons, followed by Korea with 11.77 million

From left to right: the CMA CGM Magellan by Daewoo shipbuilding & marine engineering (Dsme), one of the worlds top three shipbuilders alongside samsung Heavy industries and Hyundai Heavy industries; a drillship constructed by samsung; the Saiph Star built by Dsme; the Expedient, an Lng regasification vessel constructed by Dsme.

CGT, data from the Korea Shipbuilders Association (KOSHIPA) show. In overall tons, China is definitely flexing its muscles, but Korea is better positioned to export technological and value-added ships, raising the possibility to get more orders from big ship owners, says Ko Young-ryeol, a senior executive at Daewoo Shipbuilding & Marine Engineering (DSME). In terms of the monetary value of ships, Korea is still the top shipbuilder as of last year, with China following behind. Chinese shipbuilders have been increasing the ship stockpiles driven by Beijings so-called shipbuilding initiatives, as part of its strategy to boost the Chinese economy. But most of the orders booked by the Chinese are less profitable ones, says KOSHIPA Vice Chairman Han Jang-sop. Han expects Korea to beat China in terms of the total

number of new ship orders in 2011, as the markets for value-added ships are expanding amid rising oil prices. At the end of the first quarter this year, Korea claimed 3.3 million CGT, far ahead of Chinas 1.95 CGT, according to Clarkson-the worlds biggest shipbroker. In terms of new orders, South Korea received 90 commissions during the first three months of the year, followed by Chinas 88 orders. However, the combined monetary value of the Korean orders was US$12.9 billion, while the combined value of Chinas was US$3.5 billion. That means Korean shipbuilders are winning the more valuable orders for drill ships and FPSO, which are floating, production, storage and offloading units, says a Ministry of Strategy and Finance spokesman. The top three Korean shipbuildersHyundai Heavy Industries (HHI), DSME and Samsung Heavy Industriesmanaged to sweep all 12 of the drill ship building orders in the global market this year. Riding on this upbeat mood, the countrys finance ministry has revised its forecasts for ships to US$51.7 billion, up from US$50.5 billion. Korea started to rebuild its industrial structure in the 1970s by investing

Samsung Heavy Industries (above right); Daewoo Shipbuilding & Marine Engineering

industry. Japan, once at the top of the international sector, lost its lead to Korea several years ago, and its global market share has since dropped drastically. Meanwhile, the European market share has decreased to just 10% of Koreas, and production from the United States and the rest of the world have become negligible in comparison.
rising stocK Prices Helped by signs

of a market recovery, investors appear to be returning to shipbuilding-related stocks on the nations main bourse. Shares plunged when ship owners canceled orders in late 2008, and investors and analysts have been on the search for signs of the next increase. Jeon Yong-bum, a senior analyst at Solomon Investment, says rising orders for specialized vessels, such as drill ships used to search for crude oil, as

downturn, Jeon says. After prices are regained, I think it will be the right time for the sectors stock rally. Indeed, leading shipbuilding stocks have already begun gaining consistently, as investors are giving more credits on shares, citing the steady winning of premium ship orders. Data from the Korea Exchange, the nations bourse operator, has shown that shipbuilding stocks outperformed others so far this year. As of the end of May, the worlds biggest shipyard, HHI, has won orders for 44 ships valued at US$11.7 billion, accounting for 60% of the companys previous annual revenue target, spokesman Jo Seung-woo says. DSME booked 16 orders valued at US$4.35 billion, and Samsung Heavy Industries won US$10.5 billion-worth of orders from the United States, United Kingdom, Norway and Denmark for

Europe and the United States. The rise in shipbuilding stocks makes sense, because the demand for premium vessels is expected to rise amid higher oil prices and bigger appetites for exploring natural resources, says Jeong Dongik, an analyst at Hanwha Securities, another leading brokerage. He adds that there is no question about Koreas lead in premium shipping-related fields, as China has at least a one- to two-year technology gap in shipbuilding.
Long-term momentum To keep

momentum, Korea must shrug off the following key worries: volatile currency movements, uncertainty in the global economy and materials costs such as the price of steel plates and interest rates. The outlook is positive, however, as the global shipbuilding industry is seeing signs of what market analysts say is

04 | korea | july 2011

www.korea.net | 05

solar-cell and wind-power businesses to expand into new markets. Hyundai shares are quite attractive because Hyundai is not just a shipbuilding firm. With active investment in non-shipping areas, we are securing new growth engines, says Ahn Ji-hyun, an analyst at HMC Investment Securities. The government is stepping in to

environmental standards regulations for new vessels in 2013. The investment will be used in the development of low-emission, energy efficient ships, which will help the industrys position strengthen in the global market.
HumBLe Beginnings Although

Korea is on the brink of returning as

commodities led to a drastic decline in ship orders. Economic woes only increased with the onslaught of labor unrest, government hesitation to offer financial aid and Japans new, lowinterest export financing for their domestic shipbuilders. Fortunately, more resources were injected into the

structural change. Korea wont see any big hurdles in terms of orders throughout the next year, particularly because of a decrease in interest for nuclear reactors in the wake of the tsunami in Japan, says Oh Sung-jin, head of research at Hyundai Securities, one of the countrys largest financial institutions. Germanys latest decision to drop all of its 17 nuclear reactors by 2022 will further increase the demand for LNG, a more environmentally-friendly alternative. The demand for container ships is not strong enough yet, but it should revive toward the end of this year and the beginning of the next, Oh says. Deep-sea oil and gas storage equipment is considered the next source of revenue for the industry.

Korean shipbuilders are implementing a number of measures aimed at controlling industry risk and ensuring continued development. They include improving internal management, centralized procurement and expanding the non-shipping business. HHI, Samsung, DSME and STX have distinct technological merits in terms of equipment manufacturing across a broad range of sectors, pushing them to expand their operations. Offshore wind power generators are becoming some of the more vital contributors to shipbuilders development of a more global outlook amid the governments green growth initiatives. Hyundai, Samsung and DSME have all increased investment in wind turbine-related technologies

as part of their business diversification strategy. Diversification is the key for us to beat the industrys up and down cycles and to guarantee sustainable corporate growth, says a Samsung Heavy Industries representative. Hyundai has been transforming its image into one of a shipbuilder that supports solar-cell businesses by giving more authorities to its nonshipping divisions, according to the company. Although the annual revenue for Hyundais shipbuilding business dropped to 7.85 trillion won (US$7.3 billion) as of the end of last year from 9.1 trillion won in 2008, total corporate revenue has increased. Total revenue for 2010 was 22.4 trillion won, a change from its 19.95 trillion won in 2008. HHI created a single entity to handle only

A night view of the dock at samsung Heavy industries shipyard on geojedo island, gyeongsangnam-do Province, off the port city of Busan on the southern coast (opposite). A man finishes his work for the day in a local Korean shipyard (above). A view of a goliath crane in samsung Heavy industries shipyard on geojedo (above right).

help close the gap between the top companies past successes and future endeavors. The Ministry of Knowledge Economy announced in February a pledge to invest 300 billion won (US$278.1 million) into the green shipbuilding industry over the next decade, providing an environmentallyfriendly edge to local shipyards. The announcement came after news that the International Maritime Organization will be revising its CO2 emissions and

the worlds top shipbuilder, the start of the local industry had humble origins. Koreas modern shipbuilding history dates back to the early 1970s, a time when the military regime sought ways to boost the national economy in the shortest time possible. Shipbuilding was identified as a strategic industry since the field is simultaneously labor, technology and cash intensive. With full administrative, financial and political support, HHI constructed a 1 million-ton capacity dock in the city of Ulsan by the mid-1970s, aided by technological know-how from Europe. Daewoo Shipbuilding soon followed Hyundai and built a 1.2 millionton facility on the southern island of Geojedo, in 1981. By the mid-1980s, a deep global recession and excess oil

Korean industry as top policy makers anticipated its positive impact. A breakthrough was made in the early 1990s as new vessel orders were placed, and shipowners began to replace their outdated ships, creating work. Over the past two decades, Korea has only gained in competitive design, quality, skill, technology and component suppliers. The efficiency of a ship is best determined not just by its engines, but by the skills with which it was built, says a spokesman from Mirae Asset Securities, a leading local brokerage. The research house adds that the local industrys rise to the top has not been a simple route-much less one that could be easily copied. Korea is sure to rise to the top of its field once more, given its history and experience.

06 | korea | july 2011

Samsung Heavy Industries (above); Topic Images (opposite)

www.korea.net | 07

cover story
Shipbuilding & Marine Engineering (DSME) include an automated propulsion system, blowout preventers and a position controlling system. For Hyundai Heavy Industries (HHI), tightening global emissions regulations led by the International Maritime Organization is raising demand for LNG as an alternative energy source. Japan, which suffered a nuclear crisis following a major earthquake in March, is also turning to LNG to offset the loss of nuclear power. HHI recently won three LNG carrier orders valued at US$600 million from Greece-based Dynagas, and Korea overall has a 65% share of the LNG tanker market. Floating, Production, Storage and Offloading (FPSO) vessels are another facet of the countrys advantage over rivals. FPSO systems excavate crude oil from deepwater wells and store it in hull tanks until it can be pumped into shuttle tankers or oceangoing barges for transport to shore. FPSOs have the potential to further develop oil and gas reserves on the Gulf of Mexicos Outer Continental Shelf, so deep underwater they either present challenges or exceed existing production techniques. Hyundai, Daewoo and Samsung are frontrunners in FPSO technology, as they directly handle the designs, operations and delivery processes from start to finish. Hyundai won a bid to construct a US$1.2 billion FPSO project from oil major British Petroleum, with Daewoo and Samsung following close on its heels with similar projects. In contrast, Chinese shipbuilders rely on constructing dry-bulk ships, mostly used to carry iron ore, coal and other commodities, which are simpler in design than container carriers and tankers. Global demand for these types of vessels, about half of which are built in China, plunged 73% to US$2.3 billion in the first quarter.
A WireLess uPgrADe

the new transition to Premium Vessels


Korea once had a stronghold on the industry with its large-scale ships, but developments in the field are now focused on distinguishing local vessels in terms of design and technology.

Koreas shipbuilding industry is transforming itself from a manufacturer of size-oriented ships to building vessels with advanced technology and high value. Strong advantages-skilled designers, capability, the economy of scale and development of innovative production methods-have helped the country gain more orders for value-added ships and technology development projects. A recent report released by the China Association of National Shipbuilding Industry said Chinese shipbuilders will face choppy seas this year on rising labor and materials costs. Demand in the international shipbuilding market has moved positively for liquefied natural gas (LNG) vessels and premium engineering ships. Koreas leading

shipbuilders are expected to benefit from the industrys demand shift as the nation has already been proactively delivering high-end results. Korean shipbuilders have been expanding their concepts from just carrier builders to ocean developers, says a spokesman from local brokerage Woori Investment & Securities. Drill ships in particular have been a highlight for local companies. The vessel, used to explore deep-sea resources like gas wells, has the advantage of being able to drill in water more than 2,300m deep. Offshore drilling firms are busy finding their next source of revenue amid rising oil prices and the lifting of a deepwater drilling ban by the Obama administration last year. Korea won all 12 overseas drill ship orders as of the

end of the first quarter this year, and the nations shipbuilders also swept all 34 orders for large container ships over 8,000TEU (20 foot equivalent units). Korea reclaimed the top global position by both backlogs and order revenues by the first quarter, with revenue reaching US$12.8 billion. The bulk of the quarterly revenue is from winning bids for premium ships, says a Ministry of Knowledge Economy spokesman. China currently relies on the less-profitable, small container ships. Besides size, local companies offer drill ships featuring advanced systems, cutting-edge design and economical layout to maximize efficiency. Koreanmade drill ships are known to have a narrow hull that minimizes maintenance costs. Technological advances at Daewoo

Workers stand on a ships deck during sunset at a Hyundai Heavy industries (HHi) shipyard in ulsan (opposite). A birds-eye view of a shipyard in Korea (top). A worker welds the finishing touches on a ship at the ulsan shipyard of HHi (above).

Korean shipbuilders are implementing wireless Internet technology to their shipyards to improve communication. Hyundai applies wireless-broadband technology to its sites with the cooperation of the nations top fixed-line broadband operator. Under the digital system, workers are able to communicate via voice, images and data sharing to communication centers and other workers.

All that is needed is a portable wireless terminal that simply connects to the communication network. At Daewoo, a robot developed inhouse is lending a helping hand in LNG carrier construction, which minimizes loss during the building procedure. Similarly, Samsung Heavy Industries has created a so-called digital dream bay, which allows the automation of a diverse range of procedures. From cutting steel to assembling pieces and loading items, nearly 65% of all automation includes robots-the highest percentage of any corporation, according to Samsung. Not to be left out, STX Offshore & Shipbuilding, the worlds fifth largest shipyard, has developed an optical communication digital welding system, which enables technicians and managers to communicate smoothly during the construction process. The new technology is a hopeful indicator of STXs future in high-end vessel orders, as officials say the technology will save time and improve the quality of the ships. We project that with the implementation of the technology, over the next five years we will save 11.5 billion won, says Kim Sung-soo, a spokesman for STX. Chinas leading shipbuilders are planning to produce more sophisticated vessels, because they attract higher prices, and to shy away from the capacity glut. The shipbroker Clarkson says new ships that can carry up to 9,600 boxes can cost roughly US$118 million, or near double the price for capsize dry bulk vessels, the No 1 component of Chinese yards order-books by tonnage. Chinese shipbuilders are trying to jumpstart their skills to cut down a reliance on less-profitable ships, but its challenging because new technology doesnt appear overnight, says Mirae Asset Securities Lee Sok-je.

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Munhwa Ilbo (above, opposite bottom); Yonhap News Agency

www.korea.net | 09

cover story

sailing smooth on a Cruise


Europe may dominate the cruise liner market, but Korean shipbuilders are beginning to permeate the industry with a combination of savvy design and a family-oriented approach.

market, which has an estimated annual worth of US$10 billion. The industry is the fastest growing travel sector in the planet, according to market analysts, and has evolved to become a leader in innovative advancements. Nearly 13.5 million travelers across the globe went on a cruise in 2009. The good sign is that Korean shipbuilders are receiving increased calls to construct cruise ships-which has a 20% premium per vessel compared to a containership with the same storage capacity-in Europe, as well as North America, says an official from Hyundai Heavy Industries. Its too early to say that Korean shipbuilders are positioned to join the league of cruise authorities. But the Allure of the Seas, constructed by STX Europe, is a good example of how Korea has begun taking steps.
Positive recePtion Leading the fray

Heavy Industries have shown an interest in investing in the lucrative sector. The shipbuilders are planning to maintain their current focus on ships for businessto-business purposes while also tapping into the car-ferry ship industry. We are diversifying our business portfolios away from our heavy dependence on B2B businesses, but it will take some time, says a spokesman for Daewoo. DSME is constructing a US$262 million-worth ferry for Compagnie Tunisienne de Navigation (CTN), a Tunisian shipping firm. The 51,000 gross ton vessel is set for completion within the next year, and could carry up to 3,200 passengers

Imagine a wide, blue, open sea with nothing but waves. A plush carpet lines the halls, a deck chair sits warmed by the sun and a pool lures you into its cool depths, just tantalizingly close to the salty seawater. More and more people are choosing to spend their holidays on a cruise, and the ships have become more luxurious in recent years. Elegance has met affordability as the recovery of consumer spending strengthens. Top-tier shipbuilders are widening their scope to include premium options for cruise liners. Although European rivals have dominated the market for years, Koreans are slowly making headway into the industry. The Allure of the Seas and the Oasis of the Seas, built by Korean corporation STX Offshore & Shipbuilding, are the worlds largest cruise ships, each weighing a respectable

225,000 tons. Both vessels cost over 1.8 trillion won (US$1.67 billion), and the Oasis is comprised of 16 stories. Integrating the highest technological standards, the ships feature innovative new designs while maintaining majestic proportions. A range of intimate accommodations and extravagant entertainment outlets and activities can be accessed on board, including a lush Central Park on the Oasis. From an outdoor aqua theater to cocktail bars, childrens playgrounds and graceful dining rooms, STX manages to integrate family entertainment with a romantic getaway. Parenting.com also selected Allure of the Seas as one of the Best Cruise Ships for Families, for its customizable services and ongoing programs for children. The level of comfort offered

to our passengers is evidenced by the enjoyment of even our most discriminating customers, says Jeon Kyoung-ryeol, a senior executive at STX in charge of cruise ship construction. Korea, home of the worlds three largest shipyards, has been hoping to bolster its presence in the cruise industry. Despite rapid growth in the past three decades and its competitiveness to Chinese shipyards, the country has yet to gain a strong foothold in the luxury liner field. Circumstances are becoming favorable for local companies, as research for new cruise technology has been catalyzed by a rising global demand for luxury vacations. Currently, European-centric cruise shipbuilders, including Italy-based Fincantieri and Germanys Meyer Werft, control 85% of the global cruise shipping

here is Koreas STX, which acquired Aker Yards and converted it into STX Europe. The European branch has 15 shipyards, including sites in Finland, Norway and Romania, and is a partial owner of three yards in Germany and the Ukraine. STXs two most representative cruise vessels-the Allure and Oasis-have received positive reviews since the premium ships began routes with Royal Caribbean Cruises. Daewoo Shipbuilding & Marine Engineering (DSME) and Samsung

and more than 1,000 cars. The average ferry carries 1,500 passengers and a few hundred vehicles. The ship, which will be a semi-cruise vessel with leisure facilities such as a shopping center and restuarants, will be able to sail 51km per hour. DSME will integrate advanced technology into the construction, which shares many characteristics with existing cruise liners, but not major ferries. Daewoo will ease into the cruise industry by upgrading its ferries first, company officials say, hoping to move forward within a few years. The CTN will be used during peak seasons on its Tunisia-France and Tunisia-Italy routes. Samsung Heavy Industries has also laid down plans to build a 105,000ton vessel, combining the competitive features of a private ship with those of a cruise ship. The final result will include 200 private cabins and 204 staterooms. The family-friendly vessel will feature a sundeck, a waterslide and outdoor theaters, and will be completed in 2014. Demand for cruise and cruise-like ships is rising thanks to royalties from major cruise ship operators, higher oil prices and room for additional investments, says Samsung Heavys Managing Director Joo Youngryeol. Korea still lacks experience in building cruise ships, but with a strong technology basis, design and productivity, shipbuilders will narrow the gap between Europe and Korea.
A view of stXs Allure of the Seas (opposite). clockwise, from top: A view of the lower deck of the Allure, which includes lush greens and benches; A cruise passenger climbs the ships rock wall; the main Adiago dining hall stands ready for passengers.

10 | korea | july 2011

Royal Caribbean Cruises, LTD.

www.korea.net | 11

pen & brush

Dreaming of Healing
Feminist, surrealist, subversive-all of these words have been used to describe Kim Seung-hee, yet none seem to fully capture the writer. A resistance to oppression, her poetry is an attempt to rebel against the world around her and heal the pain of her era.
by Lee Se-mi | photographs by Kim Hong-jin

Kim Seung-hees language has always rejected the conventions of society. Her work concentrates on surviving the crisis of modernity, caused by the repressive reality of Koreas turbulent modern history and the vandalism of capital, through the outlet of creative language. After 38 years as a poet, Kim believes her work to be the confession of my phobia of the barbarism called modern civilization and the authority of male chauvinists, which is something that frightens us all. This intense reaction to contemporary society has been the result of an existential crisis that has haunted Kim for her entire life. Her first collection of poems, Sun Mass (1979), was an attempt to escape from the oppression of a male-dominated society, to find the voice of females in her time. Later works like Love Song for Incompletion (1987) and Life in the Egg (1989) spilled forth intimate admissions from the lives of everyday women, facing the issues head-on while exploring the controversies and dichotomies of female life. Kim says that it was in this latter period that she rediscovered herself, physically and philosophically, through the drama of marriage, giving birth and raising children. Back then, a sense of rejection that said I cant live like my mother began to emerge in young women, so I wrote about the perils of living as a female using the daily vocabulary of eggs and fridges, pots and cooking, boiled and scrambled eggs, and making popcorn. These everyday things were so political, and women, as a social minority, were more sensitive to the social authority and oppression they represented, Kim says. Her yearning for birth, life and freedom continued to evolve through the 1990s. Rebellious poems about the transformation and liberation of an individual trying to escape from oppressionsuch as How Shall I Get Out? (1991), The Heaviest Struggle in the World (1995) and Laughter Speeding Away on a Broomstick (2000)-earned her a reputation as a guerilla poet. Later, with Pots Bobbing (2006), she captured the brutal existence of contemporaries losing control amid the flood of modern civilization, which won her the Art Award of the Year.

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Kim Seung-hee

Transcending realiTy Kim was born in 1952 in Gwangju, and her literary talent was evident from an early age. She began to take her first steps into the world of poetry in elementary school, when she first read early modern poet Kim Sowols famous Chohon. Kim remembers the moment as the first time she felt the magical beauty of poetic language. Her adolescence was filled with solitude and estrangement from her peers. In middle school, she learned language could transcend reality and heal ones pain after reading avant-garde Yi Sangs poem Cliff. By high school, she had graduated from Dadaism to existentialism and nihilism, reading philosophers such as Kierkegaard, Schopenhauer, Nietzsche and Heidegger. Kim entered university as an English literature major, but her days passed uneasily. It was the 1970s, the early days of Koreas military regime, and classes were often canceled under martial law. With nowhere else to go, Kim would wander to her campus, which had recently built a new library. Always a voracious reader, she delved into Freudian psychoanalysis and American and English poetry, which would later influence her own work. In her third year of college, Kim won the annual spring literary contest from The Kyunghyang Shinmun newspaper for her poem The Water in the Picture. She later said that she had been attempting to overcome the barren soil of an ideology of terror through the element of water, an image of life. Her autobiographical essay, Pensees of a 33-Year-Old (1985), carried the same graphic visuals, leaving a visceral impact on readers. Full of a macabre passion, Kim talks about things like romantic suicide. More than two decades since her first poem was published, Kim made her second debut as a fiction writer with her short story On the Way to Santa Fe in 1994, which won The Dong-a Ilbo newspapers literary contest that year. The work is based on her experiences at an international creative writing course at Iowa University in 1993. I was suffering from a type of poetry-autism, writing only poems exclusively. So I wanted to go further into the field, and unravel that ardent desire not through poetic language, but narrative. In 1995, Kim taught Korean literature at the University of California at Berkeley as a visiting professor. Later, she taught at the University of California at Irvine as a fulltime instructor, and became interested in such themes as the irony of existence under a restrictive country, survival and freedom.

Pains of PoeTry Since her return to Korea, Kim has taught as a Korean literature professor at Sogang University, her alma mater. For her, writing poetry is a therapeutic process and something that allows her to be reborn of her past. One can only be healed by facing lifes most painful moments straight on, not only rejecting the world but approaching it with bravery. Recently, she has become interested in the waste left over from the culture of money and power. Although I think my self has been dismantled and does not exist anymore, I still want to express the melancholy nature of living amid the ruins and the pain of dreams that have been snatched from us, she says. Kim plans to take a sabbatical next year to focus on writing. I hope next year will be a time of transformation for me, like in the story where the leper with rotting skin emerges from a cave a handsome man, after surviving a great deal of suffering, she says, referring to the Biblical tale, and still focused on the goal shes had since childhood. I dont think I can change society, but I have this dream of healing, to fix this broken state of mine.

Walking on a WasHing line


Im walking on a washing line. I would really like to be engrossed in the task of aestheticizing the crisis without exaggerating the crisis, feeling Im walking on a washing line high above the clouds. If thats a lifelong task, now is the time when it comes to the fore in Capital Letters. If thats the poets task, although it may only be at the level of family handicrafts, ultimately it can include a quite significant cosmic content. In this age of vandalistic capitalism it means that this creature known as a poet, gaunt and withered like the pencil-lead of dire poverty, with nothing to eat or put on, digging a well in the lines on her palm then planting above it a single fantasy rainbow like a clothesline, is aestheticizing and maximizing the washing. Drawing from her own palm spring-water more lovely than Crystal Water or the Indians Arrow Head Water, then walking on the clothesline-rainbow formed as it comes gushing out must be really historic. Be of good cheer! It is I; do not be afraid. (Mark 6:50) A gladiolus, lips full of blood blooming above the basin more gracefully and urgently than even a cloud above a rainbow, destinys crimson flames dangling everywhere, impossible to measure, the day my friend who worked in the East Gate clothing market was discovered dead in a motel beside the Yellow Sea, so utterly without any close family in this world I came down off my washing line, went to the police morgue and I felt like a fire blazing up in a darkened theatershe lay there above the clouds with an expression that seemed to say theres nothing as simple as nothing, things simple as nothing are good. Why couldnt you have held on a bit longer on the washing line, why did you fall down like that? Unable to cry though longing to cry. Unable to fly though longing to fly. I resolve to live gracefully. Though every evening I ram the car into the walls of the underground parking lot, I really have to immerse myself in the task of aestheticizing the washing feeling Im walking on a washing line high above the clouds.

selecTed Works

i WanT To Hijack an airPlane


Language English Published 2004 Publisher Homa & Sekey Books I Want to Hijack an Airplane is a collection that features 103 of Kims poems, which focus on themes ranging from the inviolability of life, the female condition, mother-daughter and husband-wife relationships. In Female Buddha, Kim vividly portrays the pain women go through during labor and in the triumphant moment of giving birth. In The Legendary Flute of Silla, she asks her husband, Is it possible to live together, yet as if not living together, or to live apart, yet as if together? The poem suggests that there is a transparent and empty space between a wife and husband, a place where the wind blows and stars dance. Kims poems also deal with the cold, inhumane aspects of modern city life, and the longing for freedom as an ideal. I Want to Hijack an Airplane speaks of liberation from everything oppressive, marking the boundaries in life and the longing for an absolute existence.

Walking on a WasHing line


Language English Published 2010 Publisher Cornell University Walking on a Washing Line was published last year as part of Cornell Universitys East Asia Program. Poems selected from Pots Bobbing (2006) and Laughter Speeding Away on a Broomstick (2000), are combined with 10 new poems, containing a musical lyricism well-preserved in the English translation. The cover design portrays bleeding footprints hanging from a clothesline, aptly capturing the raw emotion and spirit of her poetry.

14 | korea | july 2011

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people

Marine Boy Angled for Comeback

Park Tae-hwan readies himself for another career milestone at the 2011 FINA World Championships in Shanghai. The passionate athlete is prepared to make his return to the top and possibly set a new world record. by Yi Whan-woo

My only contender is myself, not anyone else, and thats what I swim for. Park Tae-hwan, Koreas first Olympic swimming champion and back-toback Asiad triple gold medalist, is confident ahead of the FINA World Championships held in Shanghai from July 16 to 31. The 21-year-old is expected to face tough competition in the mens freestyle against competitors Michael Phelps and Sun Yang, but Park has been the picture of calm, composed from his experiences with a rollercoaster career and lifelong passion for swimming. Born in Seoul in 1989, Park, nicknamed Marine Boy by ardent fans, discovered his natural talent on accident. I started swimming at the age of five because I had asthma. My doctors recommended the sport, saying it would be good for me, he says. By the age of seven, Park had begun his competitive swimming career, winning several medals at local junior-level events.

That same year, the young champion was taken under the wing of the revered Roh Min-sang, the now-retired Korean national team coach, who he met at a local sports club in Seoul. He had been trained under junior coaches by that point, but I noticed he was something special, based on my experiences working with members of the national team. So I took over the role of instructing him, Roh says. Park excelled in the field and quickly grew into a world-class athlete with the help of Roh, who dedicated himself to Parks career until his retirement this January. Just a year after joining the Korea Swimming Federation, 15-yearold Park made his Olympic debut at the 2004 Athens Games. However, the young swimmer was disqualified for a false start in the preliminary heat of the 400m freestyle competition. I was so nervous at the time that I couldnt help myself from falling into the pool, Park says. Though the moment of public embarrassment still stings, he adds that the experience helped him learn to focus. In fact, Park took second place in the 400m at the FINA World Cup later that year-the start of a winning streak. At the Pan Pacific Swimming Championships in Victoria, Canada, of August 2006, the freestyle swimmer won the 400m and 1,500m races, finishing second in the 200m. The international spotlight came at the Doha Asian Games, where he swept three golds, one silver and three bronzes, and also won the MVP award for the competition. Two years later, the Korean swimming sensation was back at the Beijing Olympics, triumphing in the 400m and becoming the nations first swimming gold medalist. Suddenly the new face for a slew of sports companies, Park seemed to be on top of the world and his game. However, a disappointing performance

at the 2009 FINA World Championships saw him come home empty-handed in all of the three competitions he racedthe 200m, 400m and 1,500m. Though the athlete was still acclaimed as the most decorated swimmer in the nation, Parks slump raised concerns ahead of the 2010 Asian Games in Guangzhou. But fans and critics worries were thrown aside when he returned to win three titles for a second time, in the 100m, 200m and 400m races. Park set a

Park Tae-hwan raises the Korean flag at the 2010 Asian Games in Guangzhou (opposite). Park reacts after winning the 400m mens freestyle at the 2010 Asiad (above). Park swims the 100m in Guangzhou (left).

series of new Asiad records for Korean swimming with his success, including winning the highest number of overall medals with 12including one silver and five bronze in 2006 and 2010. Hoping to continue his streak, Park is focusing on breaking the 400m world record at the upcoming FINA championship, currently set at 3:40.08 by Australian Ian Thorpe. Park has been training hard under his private coach, Australian Michael Bohl, who is helping him prepare for the anticipated moment by reinforcing a sense of confidence. There was no doubt about Parks ability and his athlete spirit So what I tried to work with him along with training was conversation and balance of life, Bohl says. The Australian has been with Park since 2009, co-coaching with Roh and becoming his full-time coach with the latters retirement. Bohl also redirected the swimmer to focus on the 200m and

400m races, as it would be tough to balance out training between both the sprint and distance events. At the Shanghai competition, Park will face opponents Phelps and Sun in the 200m, and Sun in the 400m. The Korean swimmer previously raced against Phelps in the 200m at the 2008 Olympics, when the American beat Park. However, Park set an Asian record with a time of 1:44.80 seconds. Park won the gold in the Guangzhou Asian Games 400m against Sun, but the Chinese swimmer has since improved his speed remarkably. Parks 400m personal best is 3:41.53 seconds, set in Guangzhou, but Sun currently holds the best unofficial time of 3:41.48 seconds. Parks competitors are formidable, but the race isnt just about winning the gold. The pool is his passion, and he looks forward to continuing his career into the 2012 London Olympics.

16 | korea | july 2011

Yonhap News Agency

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great korean
his Korean roots. He first stepped onto Korean soil in March 1950, and promised to contribute to the countrys future development. I have made efforts to compete with Japanese people in Japan, the country of my mother, Woo said in his welcoming ceremony. But from now on, I will put my utmost efforts into developing Korea.
Sowing new SeedS Woo took office as the first director of

The Peoples Botanist

More than 50 years have passed since Woo Jang-choon, a worldrenowned agricultural scientist and botanist, died in 1959. Woo is still remembered by Koreans as the man who established advanced plant breeding in 1950s post-colonial Korea, feeding the people when the nation suffered from massive food shortages following the Japanese occupation. His work, which can still be seen today in stores around the country, helped establish him as the father of modern Korean agriculture. by Seo Dong-cheol

A portrait of the scientist woo Jang-choon as a young man (opposite). From top down: A group of scientists examine the progress of experimental seeds bred by woo; a view of the research lab at the Korean Agricultural Science Research institute; woo studies a plant inside a greenhouse.

Woo Jang-choon was born in Tokyo in 1898 to a Korean father and a Japanese mother. Though he faced discrimination for his ethnic background, Woo graduated from the University of Tokyos agriculture department and was hired in Japans Ministry of Agricultures examination room, where he researched thremmatology-the breeding of plants. He soon began to attract attention in the academic sphere as he published influential works like Characteristics of Morning Glories Distinguished by Seeds and Evolution and Relationships Between the Brassica Flowers. Woo became the first botanist to successfully breed double flower petunias in 1930, gaining him international recognition. In 1935, Woo surprised the world again by presenting

his famous research paper, The Synthesis of Species, which focused on genome analysis of a brassica plant and overturned previous theories. At the time, the established theory in the biological world was that crossbreeding could only occur within the same species. Woo proved that it was possible to create new plants by crossbreeding within a genus. For example, it was possible to create a plant with 19 chromosomes by crossbreeding a Chinese cabbage with 10 chromosomes and a cabbage with nine chromosomes. While Charles Darwins theory of evolution dictated that species progress through natural selection, Woos theory supplemented that new hybrids could also be created by crossbreeding. His theory, now known as the Triangle of U,

is mentioned in plant breeding textbooks around the world. When Korea was liberated from Japanese colonial rule in 1945, the Korean government wished for Woos homecoming. During the period directly following liberation, many ethnic Koreans returned to their native country from abroad, and the sudden influx of population led to a food shortage. The government was in search of intellectuals who could pioneer the seed industry and ease local agriculture to fruition. In 1948, a government-formed committee initiated Woos return to Korea and also established the Korean Agricultural Science Research Institute, so the scholar would be able to begin his work immediately upon arrival to the country. Though Woo was born in Japan, the botanist never forgot

the Korean Agricultural Science Research Institute, located in Busan, and began his research in earnest. Working tirelessly through the Korean War (1950-1953), his lab was able to escape wartime damage due to its location, and Woo was able to research in relative quiet. In the lab, the scientist focused on creating new strains of seeds suitable to the countrys climate and advancing the plant-breeding industry as a whole. These new vegetables enabled Korea to grow its own crops without importing seeds from Japan, while addressing Koreas food shortage and strengthening other strains of food, such as potatoes bred to be less vulnerable to viruses. Some of the more well-known results of his work include Napa cabbage that could be grown in the Korean climate, Jeju mandarins, radishes, peppers and onions. The committee tasked with the responsibility of bringing Woo to Korea also sent the botanist a small living stipend. Rather than using it on food and clothing, Woo would spend all of the money purchasing items relevant to his research, from books to equipment for experiments. His dedication to the field did not lessen even after he was diagnosed with an ulcer, going so far as to place bags of newly-developed rice seeds next to his IV drips, so he could observe his work. By the time Woo passed away in 1959, he had lived in Korea for less than 10 years. Despite the short period, he was able to achieve a lifetimes worth of work. Due to his extensive research, Korea became one of the worlds leading countries in the first filial generation (first generation hybrids) sector, a field that plays a key role in developing sustainable seeds. Woos achievements are outstanding even in the context of modern society, in an era when countries are in the process of securing and developing seed banks. These collections are crucial to the future of flora in times of rapid climate change, as plants and animals alike are disappearing. Several days before his death, Woo received a medal from the Korean government for his life achievements. It is said that the famous scientist shed tears while saying, My fatherland has recognized my work. Woo helped Korea become the country it is today, and scientists make strides into the future with his research to support them.

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Woo Jang-choon Memorial Hall

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seoul
in Sangam-dong. Nanji is the most popular, with bustling campers seen from spring to fall, pitching tents and playing outdoors. The campground can accommodate up to 2,000 campers and is the largest in the city with 194 sites to pitch a tent. Its also located right near the Hangang River so it boasts a pleasant natural environment in the middle of all the urban sprawl. Another advantage is that you can easily access the World Cup Park, providing ample opportunity to take in the verdant greens of Noeul (Sunset) Park, Haneul (Sky) Park, and Pyeonghwa (Peace) Park. Last year alone, 170,000 people visited Nanji, and most summer weekends see the camp filled with the maximum number of people it can accommodate. Opened in 2002, Nanji is divided into a picnic area and tent sites. In the former, visitors can barbecue or have a picnic without camping or pitching an overnight tent. All that is needed is a small admission fee to use the sites tables, chairs and other numerous facilities. Cho Ban-seok, a frequent visitor who teaches middle and high school students at a church, says, I came here to enjoy a picnic with about 30 students last year. We camped out last time, but this time were just going to picnic, since the campgrounds are already fully booked because its peak season. We come here every year, actually. Its fairly cheap, but it has everything you need, from water fountains to hot showers to restrooms. Reservations for the tent area can be made in advance online or by phone, and includes access to the area from 11am to 10am the following day. Dont worry about camping gear either, as nearly everything can be rented for a great price, including tents, grills, camping tarps, tablecloths, blankets and lanterns. Convenience stores near the site even offer charcoal, gridirons, meat, vegetables and drinks. Nam Myeong-ok, a 39-year-old camper from Junggye-dong, Seoul, is getting ready for a night out at Nanji. My family and a friends family came here to do some camping. We brought

A birds-eye view of nanji Camp, located within Seoul (opposite). from above, counterclockwise: Children play with balloons during a hot day in the city; Cyclists ride on the bike path beside the Hangang river, next to nanji Camp; A family enjoy some fresh barbecue by their tent at nanji.

Seoul is a megalopolis of more than 10 million people, so where do city dwellers go in order to enjoy a bit of nature? Forget the long road trip, the stressful itineraries and the heavy camping gear, urbanites in Seoul have a chance to sleep under the stars and even get in some openair barbecue at Nanji Campwithout ever having to leave the concrete jungle.
by Seo Dong-cheol | photograph by Choi Ji-young

An unusual sight spreads out before drivers speeding along the Gangbyeonbungno Expressway on the Hangang River. A variety of colorful tents are pitched near the water and the smell of grilled barbecue wafts through the air. Cyclists and strolling figures fill the eyes as kites fly overhead and sports enthusiasts toss a baseball back and forth. Its the scene of the citys residents welcoming in the weekend with a visit to Nanji Camp, located in the heart of the capital. There are a number of campgrounds in which to enjoy nature, such as the Jungnang Campgrounds in Mangu-dong, Gangdong Greenway Family Campground in Dunchon-dong, Noeul Campgrounds in Seongsan-dong and Nanji Camp

Munhwa Ilbo (above); Chosun Ilbo (opposite left); Sports Chosun (opposite right)

City Camping

some food but just rented everything else: two tents, a tarp, a gridiron and a grill. The camping gear was too expensive to buy and this place is really convenient. The Hangang River is close and there are parks nearby, so its the perfect family spot. This is our first time, but Id like to come back again soon. Nanji Camp offers accommodations for larger groups as well, with their extra-large, yurt-style tents that can hold 15 to 20 people. Fifty-nine-year-old Kim Jeong-ok came with her childhood friends from elementary school, explaining, We used to go on these long trips outside of Seoul, but its great that we can camp right here in the city. More and more friends can come now, because its close and affordable. Another advantage of Nanji Camp is the wide range of sports and leisure activities available nearby. Theres a baseball field, pool, cycling area, water skiing site and mountain bike course, and the west end of the campsite houses a wetlands park. Recycled artwork decorates buildings, and kids can take classes in natural handkerchief dyeing and other handson activities. If you find yourself in Seoul during the warm months, dont miss out on this chance to go camping beneath the stars and the bright city lights.
InformAtIon Admission is 3,750 won (US$3.5) for adults, 2,000 won for kids 5-7 years old and free for children 4 and under. If you bring your own tent, the fee is 15,000 won per site. Tent rentals are 28,000 won (up to 4 people) or 37,500 won (up to 6 people), and a tarp is 39,000 won. Rental fees will increase 1,000 won in August. Reservations should be made at least a month in advance during peak season (May to October). Address Nanji Camp, Nanji Hangang Park, 495-81 Sangam-dong, Seoul Contact +82 2 304 0061, www.nanjicamping.co.kr

20 | korea | july 2011

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travel

Walking the Alleys of


The host of the IAAF World Championships in August, Daegu shelters some of the most intriguing historical alleys. Walking these paths, one can discover the citys deep history. by Chung Dong-muk |
photographs by Kim Nam-heon

A birds-eye view from Daegus Woobang Tower shows the basin city at its best.

In Korea, a perseverance to overcome obstacles is known as a bulldozer spirit, and this determination to succeed can be seen within local IT companies, construction and other industries. The Korean bulldozer spirit can also be seen in the nations athletes, as they increasingly stand in the worlds spotlight with a string of successes, from figure skating to swimming. Korea is expected to shine once again during the IAAF World Championships Daegu 2011, which runs from Aug 27 to Sept 4. More than 4,000 athletes and officials will gather from 212 countries, with an expected TV audience of 6.5 billion to watch the 47 events. The Daegu Stadium will serve as the main venue for the weeklong event, one of the three major sports competitions in the world. Expectations are running high for the last showdown ahead of the 2012 London Olympics.

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city. Though only three remain today, roughly 10 Western structures were built from 1906 to 1910, constructed by missionaries at the end of the Confucian-ruled Joseon Dynasty. Until that point, locals were only accustomed to the thatched- or tiled-roofs of hanok, Korean traditional houses, but these new buildings were comprised of a hodgepodge of historical Korean and modern European designs. Foundations were created from the stones of the demolished Daegueupseong Fortress, walls were built with red bricks from Pyeongyang, roofs were constructed of Korean traditional tiles and designs were
The PeoPles Drive Daegu, with a
Daegu stadium will be the main venue for the iAAF World championships in August (above). An artist works on a mural in one of the many alleyways in Daegu (right). A view from Palgongsan Mountain shows the crossing of history and nature (below).

and former Korean President Park Chung-hee was married within its walls.
Alley Niches Down past the

TrAvel iNForMATioN

hoW To GeT There

population of 2.51 million, is the third largest metropolitan area in Korea and one of the hottest regions in the country. The basin city is surrounded by high mountains, which once protected the area from the North Korean armed forces during the Korean War (19501953). Daegu is closely connected to the modern history and culture of Korea, as the city once boasted great affluence during Japanese colonial rule. City dwellers supported the independence movement against the Japanese and many others migrated to the city, seeking refuge. During the war, a culture of artists, writers, musicians and other creative minds thrived. To understand the true face of Daegu, its best to take a tour through the numerous alleyways of the city, where the past has been well preserved. Cheongna Hill, or ivy vine hill, is a good starting point. Famous for its mention in the Korean song Thinking of Friends, the area once served as the stomping grounds of composer Park Tae-jun, who went to high school there. Cheongna is also well-known for being the site of some of the first modern buildings in the

adopted from Western houses. The first apple tree in the city was also planted on Cheongna Hill by a missionary named Woodbridge O Johnson, the director of Dongsan Hospital. Today, apples are one of the major agricultural products of Daegu. Down a 90-step staircase and away from the tree, a century-old Romanesque cathedral built in the Gothic style can be seen in the city. The Gyesandong Cathedral, built in 1902, was designed by 30 architectural engineers from France and China, and the structure later stood as witness to the 1919 Independence Movement. Cardinal Stephen Kim Sou-hwan was ordained as a priest inside the cathedral

cathedrals road of tulips and laurels, Mulberry Alley is next on the tour. The site was the home of famous poet Yi Sang-hwa and economist Seo Sang-don. Yi wrote about national anger during the repression of the Japanese colonization, in works such as Sorrowful Seaweeds. Seo is known for pioneering the National Debt Repayment Movement, a program that helped the country gain some form of financial independence from the Japanese government. Next to be explored is Yakjeon Alley, or medicine store alley, which is filled with dispensaries of Oriental medicine. Since 1658, a month-long Oriental medicine market has been held here every spring and autumn. When the market was first established, the site was opened only under order of the king, which ensured its quality. Daegu was known as the best place to buy medicine, with the market even supplying China, Mongolia, Japan and Russia. Today, the Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Cultural Center stands at the entrance of the alley, offering information about the market and medicine. The next stop is Tteok Alley, or rice cake alley. Korean rice cakes are a traditional food indispensible to cultural rituals, including weddings and birthdays. Rice cake shops display colorful foods sent to the bride and grooms homes on wedding days, luring in shoppers with their scent and warm color palettes. Past the rows of delicacies is Jin Alley, one of the most famous areas in the city. Located near Tteok Alley, the name means long in local dialect. Today, however, Jin Alley is short. Upon entering, silence falls thick and time suddenly slows to a stop. A rusty bike

Airplane Daegu has a great transportation infrastructure. Daegu International Airport has direct routes to Beijing, Shanghai and Shenyang, and each flight is roughly two hours. Tourists from other countries may enter through Seoul (Incheon Intl Airport) or Busan (Gimhae Intl Airport), and connect via domestic flights. Train It takes one hour and 40 minutes from Seoul to Dongdaegu (East Daegu) Station on the KTX high-speed rail, and one hour from Busan. Daegu has two main subway lines and the Daegu Express Terminal connects to six major freeways.

seoul

Daegu

Busan

WhAT To eAT

With its long history, the city has a wide array of unique foods. One of the most famous local dishes is jjimgalbi, a unique dish made of beef ribs found in the Dongin-dong area. There are 14 restaurants specializing in the dish, and the 40-year-old restaurants of Yujin Jjimgalbi (+82 53 425 7184) and Beonggeul Beonggeul Jjimgalbi (+82 53 424 6881) are recommended. Other local cuisine include flat dumplings, Yaki udon noodles and gondrebap vegetable rice.

Where To sTAy

hotels Recommended high-end hotels to check out are the Novotel Daegu City Center (+82 53 664 1101), Eldis Regent Hotel (+82 53 253 7711) and Caesars Motel (+82 53 745 0301), which each offer delicious buffets. Temples For those looking for an immersive accommodations experience unlike any other, Donghwasa Temple (+82 53 982 0101) on Palgongsan Mountain offers an overnight Templestay program.

FiND ouT More

Information can be found online at the Daegu Tourist Information Center (www.daegutour.or.kr or +82 2 627 8900). For direct assistance while in Daegu, dial 1330.

Jjimgalbi beef ribs

Woobang Tower

Tteok rice cakes

leans against the wall and senior citizens walk unhurriedly along the 100-yearold alley. The alley can be found on maps dating as far back as 1905, and was once a village of families in the Seo clan during the Japanese colonial period, a cluster of studios for artists and writers during the Korean War, and the neighborhood of businessmen during the industrialization period. Daegu has a range of other streets to

explore, such as the Art Street for artists in Hyangchon-dong, Culture Street in Samdeok-dong, China Town Alley and Seomun Market. To explore each in depth would take more than a week, but the Daegu Metropolitan Government is working to spur projects and revive the long-lost areas. The secrets of the alleyways each uncover a bit of Korean history, making it the perfect resource to dive into the wonders of Daegu.

24 | korea | july 2011

IAAF World Championships (left top)

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festival

flavor

Magical Mud
Getting mud on your clothes used to be a forbidden pleasure, but at the Boryeong Mud Festival its not just acceptable-its required.
by Ines Min

A group of mud-covered friends stand for a photo (above). Foreigners wave their mud painting brushes at the camera (left). Festivalgoers pose after visiting the mud body-painting area (below).

How To GeT THeRe Take a bus from Seoul Express Bus Terminal (Central) to Boryeong (Daecheon). Travel time is 2 hours and 20 minutes. For more information, visit www. mudfestival.or.kr.

Boryeong in Chungcheongnam-do Province is a moderate, beach-adorned city of just over 100,000 people for most of the year. Come summer, however, millions of tourists flock to the popular Daecheon Beach with just one thought in mind: getting muddy. The Boryeong Mud Festival (July 16 to 24) is what allures families, teenagers, couples and friends to the celebration. Last years event drew more than 2.6 million people, an increase of over half a million from the previous year. The festival is also known for having the largest number of foreign participants than any other event in the country and provides foreign-language interpretation services. The regional mud, known for its mineral and nutrientrich composition, has anti-aging properties and helps treat skin diseases, providing an additional health benefit to festivalgoers. The local government began promoting the areas natural resource with a skincare and makeup line in 1996. Two years later, the festival was established by the city for marketing purposes, but the event soon took on a life of its own. Today, a diverse range of mud products-from shampoo to BB (blemish balm) cream-can be purchased on site. Hosted on the idyllic Daecheon Beach, the main component of the festival is actually transported from the nearby mudflats to the sandy shore. Tons of smooth, gray mud is then separated into a variety of activity zones, including mud slides, a wrestling ring, an air bounce and even an obstacle course. Hands-on classes for mud pottery will be held, along with a street parade, hip-hop concerts and other late-night programs. General admission is 5,000 won (US$4.6).

The nostalgia of chicken noodle soup is replaced with the age-old tradition of samgyetang, or ginseng chicken soup, in Korea. Going beyond the simple cure for the runny nose in winter, samgyetang finds its niche in the hottest dog days of summer, also known as Bongnal. On the three Bongnal days (which are calculated according to the lunar calendar), locals replenish their spent energy with healthy ingredients and something to warm the body. Samgyetang is made by stuffing a young chicken with rice, Korean ginseng, jujube, garlic and ginger, and boiling it in a broth. Only whole ingredients are used, following the belief that uncut foods retain the most nutrients. A multitude of other herbs, nuts and seasonings can be added to tweak the dish, but the finished result is always served in a traditional earthenware bowl, delivered boiling hot and straight to the table. Salt is added to taste. Chicken is used for the dish, as it is high in protein, but low in fat and low in calories. The ginseng in the stew, which provides an herbal kick to the mild dish, helps increase metabolism and assists the body in recovering from fatigue. The antioxidant, anti-cancer root has a range of noted health benefits. The jujube helps prevent anemia, hypertension and excessive sweating, and the touch of garlic lowers cholesterol and blood pressure. Consuming hot foods, as opposed to cold, during summer better acclimates the body to the outside temperature. The nutrient-rich dish also serves as a general cure-all, helping ward off illnesses and colds year-round. Although the prospect of eating a whole chicken might seem daunting at first, one of the charms of samgyetang is its ease of edibility. The intense temperature of the broth and the tender chicken means the meat falls right off the bones. Once the bones are removed, the sticky, sweet rice and other ingredients can then be consumed with a spoon-following the shortest path to the mouth. Samgyetang can be made at home, but many in the city have a soft spot for their favorite restaurant. Several longtime establishments specialize in samgyetang, with a variety of HoT SpoTS additional ingredients that make Tosokchon Restaurant the dish their own. When youre This local gem is best known feeling lethargic from the heat, for its complex broth that head to your kitchen or to that includes more than 30 ingredients. Tip: Arrive early neighborhood joint, and indulge to avoid the long lines! in a bowl of health, heat and 85-1 Jebu-dong, Seoul happiness. Phone: +82 2 737 7444

Summer of Samgyetang
As waves of heat roll off the city asphalt, urbanites are likely to succumb to the summer stupor that leaves Sunday afternoons listless. So fight the humid weather with something even more intense: a large bowl of piping-hot soup. by Ines Min

Boryeong Mud Festival (opposite); Topic Images (right); Sunu Hyong-jun (right above)

A rejuvenating bowl of samgyetang is served on a hot day.

26 | korea | july 2011

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now in korea

Embracing world

Art
by Park Min-young

Korea is a growing haven for art aficionados. An increasing number of blockbuster exhibits featuring hundreds of rare, world-class masterpieces are held each season, and the hottest international artists are being showcased in private galleries all year-round.

Museum directors explain an artwork at the National Museum of Contemporary Art, Deoksugung.

Viewers clutching audio guides formed a long queue on a Monday morning to get a closer look at Vincent van Goghs masterpiece Starry Night Over the Rhone, at Seoul Arts Centers Hangaram Museum. Such a crowd, which used to be seen only on weekends, is now familiar on any day of the week at a number of art hubs within the city. The exhibit, Muse dOrsay: Dream and Reality, which features 134 artworks by 19th century French artists such as Van Gogh, Claude Monet, Auguste Renoir and Paul Czanne, attracted more than 15,000 visitors within three days of its opening on June 3. It is big news, even for myself, to see so many artworks from Muse dOrsays collection exhibited outside of the museum, says Guy Cogeval, president of the French museum. The exhibit is only one of many blockbuster shows introducing art from different countries in Korea right now. Since 2000, art museums and galleries here have been broadening the local scene by holding large-scale exhibits in collaboration with the worlds major art museums, including the Centre Georges Pompidou, the Louvre and Muse dOrsay in France, the Whitney Museum of American Art in the United States and the MACBA in Spain. The shows, usually held during the summer and winter vacation seasons, have

28 | korea | july 2011

National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea

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become some of the most popular destinations for locals looking for a cultural experience.
WorlD-ClAss ColleCtIoNs Dream and Reality is the third show featuring the Muse dOrsays collection in Seoul. The first and second exhibits showcased 40-70 artworks, and had about 400,000 and 430,000 visitors, respectively. The current show is the biggest yet, with 73 paintings, 24 drawings and 37 photos. GNC media, the Korean exhibit organizer, jumped at the opportunity to showcase the artwork when the French museums Impressionist galleries-the largest collection in the world-recently underwent renovations in 2009. Eighty-seven artworks from the Whitney Museum of American Arts collection can be found in Seoul as well, at The American Art: Masterpieces of Everyday Life from the Whitney Museum of American Art. The showcase is currently running at the National Museum of Contemporary Arts Deoksugung branch through Sept 25. The show provides a comprehensive view of contemporary American art by offering paintings, photos and installations from the prominent US museum. The list of 47 featured artists includes Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Man Ray and Jasper Johns. Starting with the 1993 show featuring works from the 1992 Whitney Biennale, the National Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) has been making efforts to introduce world art to the Korean public. Some of MOCAs recent exhibits focusing on international artists include Colombian artist Fernando Boteros show in 2009; Picasso and Modern Art, which featured over 120 paintings, drawings and sculptures by 39 European artists from the late 19th and early 20th century in 2010; The Shadow of Speech, MACBA Collection, composed

AN INterest IN the UNfAMIlIAr Next, MOCA plans to

introduce Australian contemporary art to the country. Though Australian arts hold in the world market has weakened in recent years, the country is recognized for its Biennale of Sydney-one of the worlds oldest art biennales and Australias most popular art event-established in 1973.

GNC media (opposite left); National Museum of Contemporary Art, Korea

of 140 paintings, sculptures, installation and media art by 63 contemporary artists owned by MACBA in 2010; and Made in Popland, which showcased about 250 pop artworks by Korean, Chinese and Japanese artists. In July, MOCA will give a glimpse of French art through the exhibition Le Prix Marcel Duchamp at its main museum in Gwacheon, Gyeonggi-do Province. Co-organized with the Association for the International Diffusion of French Art, the exhibition is being held in commemoration of the 10th anniversary of the prestigious prize, which aims to promote the French art scene in the international market. Fifteen French artists who either won the award or were nominated, including Cyprien Gaillard, Mathieu Mercier, Laurent Grasso and Sadane Afif, will be featured in the show. Quiet, yet thoughtprovoking installations, video works, sculptures, photos and paintings will be shown in the exhibit. Duchamps concept of readymade greatly influenced the worlds contemporary art history. Koreans especially put more importance on it, so we thought it was time to shed light on it. We have not properly introduced art from Eastern Europe yet, so we are currently contacting museums in Eastern Europe. These exhibits are part of a bigger concept to globalize contemporary art, says Lee Ji-ho, head curator at MOCA.

Tell me Tell me: Australian and Korean art 1976-2011, organized by National Art School Gallery and MOCA to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Korea-Australia diplomatic relations, is already underway at the Sydney gallery, to run until late August. Here, it will run from Nov 7, 2011, to Feb 19, 2012, at MOCAs Gwacheon museum. The show explores young artists interpretations of art historical movements since the year 1976, such as Fluxus, and investigates the places of both Korean and Australian art in the global art world. Artists from both countries like Nam June Paik, Shim Moon-Seup, Lee U-fan, John Davis, Marr Grounds and Terry Reid are on display. The Seoul Museum of Art, located downtown, also held a two-monthlong show featuring 22 Australian media artworks, which ended in late June. The exchange exhibition presented images of Australias present and future, people, rural and urban sights. The Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art selected American artist Christian Marclay as the first to introduce in its new Black Box Project, which started last year. The project aims to introduce world-renowned media artists to the Korean public by screening the works in a giant, concrete black box fixed to float 17m above the museum floor. The museums remarkable choice, made when Marclay was still an unfamiliar artist here, was acclaimed especially after the artist won the Golden Lion award at the Venice Biennale this year with his 24 hour-long video collage, The Clock. The museum is preparing for an extensive Alexander Calder show in July.
INDepeNDeNt eNDeAvors Though their scale may be smaller, private galleries dotting the Sagan-dong and Sinsa-

Starry Night Over the Rhone by vincent van Gogh is on display at the seoul Arts Center (opposite below). from opposite top, left to right: Still Life with Crystal Bowl by roy lichtenstein, Pie Counter by Wayne thiebaud and La Fortune by Man ray are on display at the National Museum of Contemporary Art, Deoksugung.

dong neighborhoods frequently hold exhibits spotlighting foreign artists who are less known in Korea. Kukje Gallery in Sagan-dong, for example, organizes more foreign artists shows than Koreans. Renowned artists such as Damien Hirst, Joan Mitchell, Joseph Beuys, Louise Bourgeois and Julian Opie have held shows at the gallery. Most recently, the gallery held British artist Cecily Browns solo exhibition in June. Gallery Hyundai, which has branches in both Sinsa-dong and Sagan-dong, introduced 30 of French artist Franois Morellets representative works in June. Though Morellet is known as a master of geometrical abstract art and has held more than 455 solo exhibitions around the world, it was his first show to be held in Korea. Arario Gallery, which has locations in Sagan-dong and Cheonan, Chungcheongnamdo Province, often introduces Indian and Southeast Asian artists, such as artist duo Thukral and Tagra last year. PKM Gallery in Sagan-dong and Cheongdam-dong, recently presented Katie Paterson, an up-and-coming artist from the UK. Private galleries can introduce various artists from the young and trendy to the established, quickly and without many restrictions compared to national museums, says Kim Tae-yeon, director of PKM Trinity Gallery. Private galleries are taking part in educating art students and the public by featuring works by foreign artists who are currently considered important in the rest of the world.

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entertainment
Superstar K, which aired on Mnet, was the first audition program in Korea. The program showed plenty of potential with its first season in 2009, and finally started a nationwide phenomenon with its second season. The TV show, which tugs on the heartstrings of its viewers, established a competitive structure while telling rags-to-riches life stories. Huh Gak, the winner of Superstar Ks second season, became an instant symbol within pop culture. A ventilator repairman with no notable education, a short stature and no particularly striking looks, Huh nevertheless became the shows main protagonist, winning over fans with his life story and booming vocals. Harnessing Huhs raw emotional power, the cable TV show outranked viewer ratings on network TV, a then-unprecedented feat. The timing of the show was well placed, and the success of the program coincided with practicality: production costs. Until two years ago, indirect advertisements-a major source of revenue-were banned from network channels. Accordingly, network TV was unable to produce programming that required larger production budgets, as funding was simply unavailable. Superstar K was able to make the most of indirect advertisements and create the kind of program local channels were unable to do. In part due to the talent shows proven success, the National Assembly passed a law changing advertising regulations in 2009, and network channels soon jumped on the bandwagon. The change saw a slew of new reality TV shows come forth, including MBCs The Great Birth, which focused on a mentoring system for its contestants, and I Am a Singer, which pitted veteran singers against one another. The latter in particular shook the K-pop industry, which is largely dominated by young idols and celebrities. The relatively older contestants on Singer saw a second rise to fame as they captured their former audiences interests once more, even pushing younger K-pop music out from the top singles lists. The program helped return the focus to a singers vocal talents, which had long been ousted by visual dance skills. I Am a Singer grew to become the crossroads of controversial issues in contemporary Korean music, as other network channels launched their own programs. Oldies but Goodies 2, the pop version of Singer, discovered stars whose talents had been ignored in favor of their looks. KBS then produced Top Band, which moved the spotlight from individual singers to group collaborations. The trend has furthered still, with talent shows taking on new shape and expanding to other cultural sectors. SBS Kiss and Cry, hosted by world champion figure skater Kim Yu-na, sees celebrities learn to figure skate and compete in an absurdly short time period. Other programs include searches for rising actors and actresses, and recruiting for an announcer for a major TV network. Cable and network TV are now both contending to find the next big hit program, including an increase in remakes of successful overseas shows. One such example is the recently popular Koreas Got Talent, a remake of Britains Got Talent which was originally exported to 36 countries. The show made headlines last month when a video clip of a contestant-whos hard-knock life story drew in millions-went viral a la Susan Boyle. Opera Star takes on the same concept except with opera, while Dancing with the Stars tests the hip-swaying skills of celebrities and other high-profile figures. This year, the majority of Korean entertainment programming adopted audition systems. However, this

The past year has seen an undeniable surge of audition-style programming in the entertainment sector. But is this reality TV here to stay, or is it simply millions of people connecting to their passion for music? by Jeong Deok-hyeon
Survival audition programs are all the rage in Korea these days. When Superstar K, the Korean version of American Idol first aired in Korea two years ago, not many people could have foreseen the success of the show. It was only a matter of time, however, as the reality-based audition format had been successfully making a rise in the Western world since the early 2000s. The survival-of-the-most-talented approach has seen

Reality Talent Shows Sweep Korea


hit spin-offs exported the world over, from Australian Idol to Deutschland sucht den Superstar. The origin of this trend lies in American Idol, through which Kelly Clarkson was turned into an international name, followed by Britains Got Talent, which brought Paul Potts and Susan Boyle to the sudden spotlight. The format speaks on an emotional level to people regardless of their nationalities.

TV

Opposite, left to right: Singers perform in the show I Am a Singer; a contestant on The Great Birth shows his skills; an MC introduces a participant on Super Rookie. A singer gives his all in an episode of I Am a Singer (above).

does not mean that the trend will continue to be successful. The most popular hot tickets have proven to be Superstar K-which is now preparing for its third season with auditions overseas-The Great Birth and I Am a Singer. The remaining, newly-coined programs still have yet to concretely establish themselves, and if they are not successful, viewers may need to rethink the epicenter of this fever. Perhaps the craze for the new programming has not to do with audition programs, but music-based entertainment. In fact, music programs have created a number of cultural phenomena in the past, although the format was not audition-based. Cest Si Bon, which brought acoustic folk music to the TV in the 1970s, and Qualifications of Men was also a hit with its chorus segment. It will be worth observing whether this latest craze comes from the talent show TV format or simply from the raw power of music and passion that appeals to people emotionally.

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MBC

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special issue
I want to give hope to young kids in Vietnam who love football. Asian football is growing fast and the gap between the football powerhouses [and less-developed football nations] is closing. If I can give Asian players some kind of motivation, I think they will have the desire to become great football players, he said. Park himself is a sixseason-career Premier League player, and first made a name for himself during the 2002 FIFA World Cup co-hosted by South Korea and Japan. He joined Manchester United in 2005, where he continues to show off his talents today. The JS Foundation was established in February to promote football worldwide. The nonprofit organization will donate its proceeds to a number of countries, organizations and institutions in Southeast Asia and around the world, particularly in regions lacking proper football infrastructure. The proceeds from the first event will be donated to help budding programs in Vietnam. The Asian Dream Cup opened on June 14 with a meeting for multicultural families and a youth camp for future sports stars. Sixty children were given a lesson in football basics, with Yoo Sangchul, Park and three other colleagues working hard as their coaches. Though the sun shone bright and the temperature reached over 30C, every face was smiling and ready to play. I hope all of you will become worldclass players, Park told the excited participants. You can even become better than me if you hold onto your dreams and train hard. The next day, the major event of the cup was held at the 20,000-seat Thong Nhat Stadium. The friendly match saw major European and Asian football names participating, along with a few athletic Korean celebrities. The packed stadium roared wtih the sounds of the fans, with a few ticket-less, dedicated few even watching from the fences, determined to see the final score. The two teams, JS Friends and Navibank Saigon, the Vietnamese professional league club, played a competitive and exciting game, with the home team ultimately winning 4-3. Park and participating international footballers formed the JS Friends team, including both Korean favorites and overseas leaguers. Korean nationals included: Englands Bolton Wanderers right winger Lee Chung-yong; from Frances Ligue 1, AS Monaco striker Park Chu-young, AJ Auxerre forward Jung Jo-gook, Valenciennes FC midfielder Nam Tae-hee; and Scotlands Celtic FC midfielder Ki Sung-yeung. Players from Japan included Nakata Hidetoshi and Miura Kazuyoshi, and midfielder Matsui Daisuke of Frances Ligue 2 outfit Grenoble Foot 38 and Belgian professional football club Lierse SK goalkeeper Kawashima Eiji. Park revealed that he personally contacted each of the team players to participate in the event, emailing and calling his friends to join. K-pop star Kim Jun-su or Xiah of JYJ also joined the festivities, taking to the pitch as a substitute. He showed his sports skills as he connected a pass to the offense, mere moments after being put on the field. He performed with his pop group during halftime as well, keeping the event lively with music. The friendly provided a chance for Vietnam to get into the spirit of the game, but also served as an opportunity to show what the sport is all about. Vietnamese children will have a sense of challenge by watching the European league footballers playing in real life, Park said ahead of the match. Manchester United manager Alex Ferguson showed support for Park in a video message sent to the foundation. The Englishman praised Parks philanthropic character, referring to his foundation as a fantastic contribution to the welfare of others. He has a real caring heart. Whatever he is going to achieve out there, I hope he finds he enjoys it, Ferguson said.

Football
Children and sports fans cheered as football greats battled on the bright green grass of their home field, with players from across the world playing for their benefit. JS Foundation, footballer Park Ji-sungs charity organization, held the inaugural Asian Dream Cup in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, from June 13 to 15, to support and promote the sport throughout Southeast Asia. The Manchester United midfielder

Park Ji-sung hosted a charity event in Vietnam, bringing together famous sports names with local children to support football in the Southeast Asian country. by Yi Whan-woo
and former Korean national football team captain hosted the event, which was comprised of a friendly match between an international team and the local league, educational activities, multicultural meetings and other events to help establish a local football infrastructure. The JS Foundations first activity since its establishment earlier this year, the event opened to positive reception and international cooperation. The annual Asian Dream Cup will continue on to Thailand, Indonesia and other regional countries next year. A number of people recommended Vietnam for the inaugural Asian Dream Cup, saying that the country is overwhelmed with football fever. I also decided on Vietnam since it shares a similar history with Korea, as the Southeast Asian country was also divided into two in the past, Park said.

fun

Yonhap News Agency

Park Ji-sung coaches local kids in Vietnam (opposite). From left, JS Friends show team spirit after losing the friendly; Park signs autographs for fans; Park goes for the ball during the match.

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special issue
some even shedding tears Over 14,000 K-pop fans nearly of happiness. blew the top off the Znith Such a reception de Paris on the nights of June surprised even the K-pop 10 and 11 with their excited singers and screams. SM Entertainment officials Agencys two concert showcase at SM in Europe, SM Town Live Entertainment. World Tour in Paris, was a Following the second huge success that proved how concert on Saturday, far Hallyu, the Korean wave, the organizers said has spread. The show featured that the fever was the popular K-pop groups beyond our Girls Generation, Super Junior, expectations. SHINee, TVXQ and f(x). Fans The French media from across all over Europeimmediately picked up on including France, England and the Hallyu sensation. Daily Germany, and as far away as newspaper Le Monde covered Sweden and Serbia-went crazy the concert on its front page, at the performers every move. saying The Korean wave has Concert organizers estimated invaded Europe. It said that that only about 5% of the video sharing services like audience was Korean. YouTube and SNS such as Im learning Korean so I Super Junior performs in Paris on June 11 (opposite). TVXQ arrives at Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport (top). Fans hold handmade posters at Facebook and Twitter enabled can understand the lyrics of the K-pop concert (above). A young fan awaits her music idols (inset). the spread of K-pop in Europe, their songs, a 19-year-old and pointed out that Korean Spanish student told a Korean entertainment agencies system of nurturing new singers as a newspaper, adding that she flew in to Paris just to see TVXQ crucial factor in the groups popularity. Le Figaro also ran a perform live. That feverish excitement didnt fade even after photo of the concert on page 1, with a bold headline reading the three-hour concerts were over. Teenage fans lingered in their seats long after the singers had exited the stage, many left Korean wave has hit the Znith de Paris. On June 15, French TV broadcaster Canal+s popular show in quiet shock at the shows end. Le Grand Journal aired a feature on the concert, introducing Avid K-pop fans in France had been waiting for the singers K-pop as the latest world trend. Some French girls even night and day since SM Entertainment, one of Koreas top auditioned to become K-pop singers themselves. DNiWorks, entertainment agencies, announced the first-ever concert to a Korean entertainment agency that is holding auditions for a be held in Paris. Several hundreds of fans rallied in front of new international girl group, said that applicants are coming the Louvre in May, demanding an extra show as tickets to the in from all over the world. Applications are coming in not originally-scheduled single concert sold out in 15 minutes. only from France, but also from many other countries like Realizing the K-pop frenzy and meeting the fans demands, Lithuania and Mexico. We feel that K-pop has gone beyond SM decided to hold an additional concert. Two days before the concert, more than 1,500 teenagers camped out in a corner Asia and reached Europe, despite the language barrier, a spokesman from DNiWorks said. of Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport, preparing to welcome Maxime Paquet, president of Korean Connection, a their beloved stars as soon as they set a foot in the country. community of about 3,300 K-pop aficionados in France, said They waved placards and Korean flags, sang and danced to that the major appeal of K-pop singers is their well-rounded the groups hit songs like SHINees Ring Ding Dong and Girls skills. They sing, dance, dress well and provide a full package Generations Gee. Fifty local police officers were deployed to of visual and auditory flair. K-pop fans will increase in Europe maintain order. When the bands finally appeared at the gates, at least for the next five years, he said. fans rushed to get a better view of them, squealing in joy and

K-pop taKes paris

Enthralling thousands of fans and almost paralyzing the area around Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport and Znith de Paris, a K-pop concert served as a milestone for the Korean wave, as Europe begins to give in to the craze. by Park Min-young

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Yonhap News Agency

www.korea.net | 37

summit diplomacy

Korea, China, Japan Strengthening Cooperation


As the combined GNP of Korea, China and Japan accounts for nearly 20% of the worlds economy, cooperation among the three Asian countries has always been desirable. At a trilateral summit in Japan in May, President Lee Myung-bak met with his counterparts in China and Japan to stress the importance of free trade in Northeast Asia and to promote his green growth campaign. by Ser Myo-ja

President Lee Myung-bak met with Chinese Premier Wen Jiabao and Japanese Prime Minister Kan Naoto in a trilateral summit in Japan from May 21 to 22. During his visit, Lee emphasized the importance of a free trade agreement between the three countries, and encouraged greater attention to global issues such as development agendas and low carbon, green growth policies. The meeting, designed to create a forum of open discussion on regional cooperation and share views on Northeast Asian issues, was the fourth of its kind since 2008. FREE TRADE ENDEAVORS On the sidelines of the official trilateral summit, a forum of 100 businessmen from Korea, China and Japan took place at the Japan Business Federation. Along with his Chinese and Japanese counterparts, Lee met with a delegation of businessmen on May 22 to address influential tycoons from the three countries. Among the participants was Huh Chang-soo, chairman of the Federation of Korean Industries; Yonekura Hiromasa, chairman of the hosting federation; and Wan Jifei, chairman of the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade. In his address, Lee praised the cooperation of the three countries in fighting the global financial crisis. The

President Lee Myung-bak, center, Chinese Premier Wen Jiabao, right, and Japanese Prime Minister Kan Naoto sample local vegetables in Fukushima, Japan, on May 21 (opposite). The annual Korea, China and Japan trilateral summit opens in Tokyo on May 22 (above). Lee greets residents of Fukushima on May 21 (below).

three Northeast Asian countries played a pivotal role in overcoming the crisis, and I believe a driving force to progress the global economys development came from Northeast Asia, Lee said. I think that power came from the businessmen of the three countries, and I hope to see more cooperation in the future. Noting that the regional economy is slowly showing signs of recovery, Lee said 17 million people traveled among the three nations last year, recording a 22% increase in travelers. He also said that trade among the three countries amounted to

nearly US$600 billion, comprising roughly 18% of total global trade. Lee said there is room for further growth yet, stressing the importance of speeding up the KoreaChina-Japan FTA. He informed the business leaders that the three countries agreed to complete a joint survey for a draft of the FTA by the end of the year. I have a strong passion for free trade, Lee said. The Korea-EU FTA will take effect from July, and we hope to begin another with the United States as early as this year. Trade barriers between Korea and many other countries are being lifted. Trade among Korea, China and Japan is of the utmost importance, so I promise that Korea will promote a trilateral FTA actively and aggressively. Participants signed a joint statement expressing their support for the early conclusion of the trilateral FTA. Lee also urged the businessmen to actively participate in World Expo to be hosted by Yeosu in May 2012. HELPING JAPAN RECOVER Lee, Wen and Kan began the trilateral summit with a visit to Fukushima, the area hit by the devastating earthquake and tsunami in March. Lee and Wen were the first foreign leaders to visit the quake-stricken area since the national disaster. Lee also visited Sendai, where a Korean

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Yonhap News Agency

www.korea.net | 39

agreed to establish an early notification system for nuclear accidents and to take further steps to improve the countries cooperation in disaster management of the region. As the three nations are geographically close, a nuclear accident or disaster in one nation could have substantial effects on the people of all three, Lee said at a joint news conference after the summit. It is an important achievement for us to agree to strengthen information sharing and other cooperation on disasters, including nuclear accidents. The three countries adopted a joint summit declaration, summarizing their agreements on nuclear safety cooperation, as well as other economic and security commitments. PROMOTING GREEN GROWTH At the trilateral summit, the three leaders stressed their commitment to cooperate in pursuing environmentally-friendly, sustainable growth. The combined population of the countries comprises 22% of that of the world, so Lee emphasized the importance of green leadership in Northeast Asia. Recognizing that global environmental issues need to be addressed by the international community for the sake of future generations, we showed our determination to lead the efforts in this field, said the joint summit declaration. From this perspective, we share the view that it is necessary to promote renewable energy use and enhance energy efficiency toward sustainable growth. Indicating the significance of an environmental approach, the three leaders adopted a separate agreement devoted to the issue at the summit. They said they shared the view that it is necessary to address climate change and to constrain natural resources. We are determined to achieve sustainability as a driving force for global growth, with the aim of reconciling environment protection with economic development, reaffirming the objectives and principles of the United

Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change, they said in the statement. The leaders also hailed Koreas initiative in creating the Global Green Growth Institute (GGGI). We welcome the establishment of the GGGI in Korea and global support for its activities, they said. We also hope that GGGI will be one of the platforms to explore and promote cooperation among the three countries toward achieving sustainable growth. Under Lees leadership, Korea has actively pursued green growth policies to lessen the countrys dependency on fossil fuels, while promoting development of renewable energy sources. One of the outcomes of the environmental campaign was Lees pledge made at the Copenhagen climate conference in 2009 to open a green growth think tank in Seoul. Lee announced the launch of the GGGI in June 2010, which focuses on developing policies and technical solutions. The initiative has won the support of countries from around the world, including Germany and Denmark.

ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVE

GLObAL GREEN GROWTH INSTITuTE HOSTS INAuGuRAL SuMMIT


The inaugural Global Green Growth Summit took place in Seoul from June 20 to 21. Policymakers, business leaders and scholars from around the world gathered in Korea to participate in the conference, promoting the low carbon, green growth campaign championed by President Lee Myung-bak. The OECD served as the events co-organizer, and 91 world-renowned speakers from 25 countries and major international organizations addressed topics on environmental-friendliness, sustainable economic development and climate change. Under the theme, Building Planet-responsible Civilization, the conference was a summit presenting Koreas vision for green growth by seeking global cooperation, the Blue House said. The summit marked the 50th anniversary of the OECD, the 15th anniversary of Koreas joining of the OECD and the 1st anniversary of the Global Green Growth Institute. A video message from UN Secretary General Ban Ki-moon opened the summit and speakers included OECD Secretary General Jos ngel Gurra; Noeleen Heyzer, executive secretary of the UN Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific; Abdoulie Janneh, the executive secretary of the UN Economic Commission for Africa; and Inger Andersen, vice president of the World Bank. Government officials included Montek Singh Ahluwalia, deputy chairman of Planning Commission of India; Trevor Manuel, minister in the Presidency for National Planning of South Africa; and Lykke Friis, Danish minister for Climate and Energy. In addition to political leaders, scholars and business leaders were also present. Softbank Corp CEO Son Masayoshi and chairman of Suntech Power Shi Zhengrong were among the businessmen who shared their insights at the forum. Son is a pioneer of natural energy resources in Japan, and Suntech Power is a Chinese giant in the solar energy industry. Other speakers included Nicholas Stern of the London School of Economics and Political Science, one of the worlds most prominent climate economists; Komiyama Hiroshi, former president of University of Tokyo who currently heads Mitsubishi Research Institute; and Jan-Anders Mnson, vice president of the cole Polytechnique Fdrale de Lausanne of Switzerland. We hope to see the event to grow into a premier forum devoted on green growth, like the Davos Forum for world business leaders, the Blue House said in a statement. The first day of the event focused on promoting a green growth strategy to the world and sought cooperative measures from global governance. On the second day, a discussion titled New Partnership and Leadership ensued to strength cooperation between Korea and the OECD. The present and future of the Korean economy and continuous cooperation among the G20 economies were also discussed. Prestigious Korean think tanks-the National Research Council for Economics, Humanities and Social Sciences, the Korea Development Institute and the Global Green Growth Institute-supervised the forums programming. The GGGI was launched last year as one of Lees ambitious green growth initiatives. Devoted to lesson dependency on fossil fuels, the think tank has received support from the international community. Denmark became a green growth partner of Korea, and the two countries formed an alliance in May with the opening of the first GGGI branch office in Copenhagen.

A meeting is held at the Korea, China and Japan trilateral summit in Tokyo on May 22. The threenation summit is the fourth of its kind since the inaugural 2008 edition.

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Yonhap News Agency

rescue team gave aid to the disasterhit area. Fukushima has been struggling to recover from the crisis at the Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant, and Sendai is home to many Korean residents and the Korean Consulate-General. Lee not only comforted displaced families in person, but also ate local vegetables produced in Fukushimaseen as a symbolic gesture of Koreas support for Japan, particularly concerning food safety issues in the stricken region. Lee also showed his support during the business summit. I am confident that Japan has the ability to overcome this

President Lee Myung-bak sits with a group of displaced residents in Fukushima, Japan, on May 21. The president visited the devastated area with his Japanese and Chinese counterparts.

disaster, he said. Japans businessmen have world-class competitiveness and power. With the unity of its people, Japan will successfully overcome this crisis. The president pledged Koreas support for Japans rebuilding efforts as well. At the trilateral summit on May 22, efforts to share information on nuclear safety were discussed. The three leaders

www.korea.net | 41

global korea

InternatIonal students Choose Korea


More and more foreign students are coming to Korea to study, due in part to Koreas remarkable economic growth, advanced technology and applied sciences, and respected professors. The government and universities alike are working to increase support and bring in some of the worlds top students in todays fiercely competitive global arena. by Lee Se-mi

Last year, of the 83,842 foreigners studying in Korea, nearly 85% were from Asia. Roughly 6% were from South America, while students from North America, Europe and Africa followed in decreasing order. Korea has witnessed a rapid rise in the number of foreign students since the mid-2000s. The increase began as local universities expanded sisterhood ties to overseas schools in the midst of globalization, and Koreas appeal strengthened with the impact of Hallyu, or the Korean wave, across Asia. In addition to the trend, national universities have been actively seeking foreign students in a bid to make up for the decrease in domestic student enrollment numbers. In particular, the number of Chinese students has risen every year, accounting for more than half of all foreign students in Korea. China has been sending an increasing number of students overseas because of its recent economic growth, and tuition here is relatively lower than in Japan or the United States. There are now more than 400 technical colleges, universities and graduate schools in Korea operating a wide range of programs for foreign students. They offer student exchanges, seasonal semesters, Englishonly classes and Korean language courses. Most universities even offer scholarships for students from abroad, which will cover 30% to 100% of tuition costs, depending on the students grades. 100,000 by 2012 In 2008, the Korean government set a goal to bring in 100,000 international students by 2012, in an effort to attract talented individuals to the country. To help reach their projected number, the Global Korea Scholarship (GKS) program was created in 2009 to offer support to foreign students studying here. One of the roles of GKS is to select foreign students for government scholarships, in which a year of Korean language courses, degree courses, airplane tickets, living

Foreign students experience a day in the life of a Confucian scholar at Sungkyunkwan University (opposite). Students discuss life in Korea (above). Students attend a lecture at the University of Ulsan (right).

costs, research funds, tuition costs and healthcare are provided for. In addition, GKS runs a variety of short-term scholarship programs, assisting exchange students and financially-independent students. In 2011, a total of 400 students (100 undergraduates and 300 graduates), were chosen for the GKS scholarship on the recommendation of embassies and universities. The Korean government is also supporting universities in their quest to attract more students from abroad by

establishing new programs for the best and the brightest. It is becoming increasingly important to bring in overseas talent as enrollment in schools slows down because of low birthrates. The Korean government awards certification to schools that meet certain criteria, offering a number of incentives that will allocate funds to foreign students studying here. The government is also lending financial support to a consortium of local governments and colleges to build five

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Segye Ilbo (right top); Yonhap News Agency

www.korea.net | 43

global exchange centers (dormitories for students from abroad) by 2015. A project is also underway to establish an unprecedented incorporated information system for those studying in Korea. Once the system is implemented, any foreigner interested in studying here will be able to find what they need from counseling, applications and visas to online Korean language courses, jobs and communities. Stricter guidelines for incoming students are being developed in an effort to enhance the quality of students studying here and for their safety. The criteria will range from documentation screening to the verification of applicants language skills. More consistent organization and management will also become standardized, in order to limit indiscriminate tuition exemptions and regulate the management of independent Korean language institutes.

international students participate in a hands-on pottery event at Hanyang University during an activity day (above left). a student tries his hand at a traditional activity at Hanyang University during a school-wide event (above). Foreign students perform taekwondo for an audience at Kyung Hee University (opposite).

Kyung Hee University (opposite); Hanyang University

Foreigners who want to study in Korea are currently required to reach level three or above on the TOPIK (Test of Proficiency in Korean) and level four before graduation for college-level students. The National Institute for International Education runs a free Korean language learning website, KOSNET, in four languages (English, Japanese, Chinese and Spanish) to help foreigners learn Korean. UniverSity initiativeS Local universities are actively competing to attract the most international students possible, as a diverse student body encourages cultural

exchange in an era of globalization. Kyung Hee University has one of the highest concentrations of foreign students, with 2,585 students from 69 countries enrolled in the first semester of 2011. Of them, 1,916 are undergraduates, 480 are masters students, 71 are in integrated courses and 118 are in doctoral courses. Kyung Hee waives entrance fees for the top 10% of foreign applicants who pass the entrance exam, and finances the students tuition if they reach a TOPIK level six and maintain a GPA of at least 3.7. Those with a GPA of at least 3.3 are offered opportunities to participate in overseas internships and educational programs, with all expenses paid for by the school. Some general education courses are conducted in languages other than Korean, opening opportunities to those who arent yet fluent. In fact, Kyung Hee has 19 classes dealing with major issues in Korean society, history and culture, and reading. Foreign student centers have been established to form a sense of community and to provide extracurricular programs for further studying. Departments also have assistants to manage issues related to foreign students and freshmen taking Korean language courses. Regular classes consist of four semesters over a period of 10 weeks, with students designated to the right level through a placement test. The university established a one-on-one mentoring system in 1996, where Korean and foreign students can partner up to have direct, conversational exchanges on a daily basis. There are four foreign student dormitories that can accommodate up to 320 people, and online counseling sites in five languages (English, Japanese, Chinese, Mongolian and Russian) to help foreigners communicate with administrative staff. Winter sports events are held every semester, creating a tight-knit community within a comfortable setting. Hanyang University grants more than 3 billion won in scholarships to international

students, and 240 science majors in the masters and doctoral courses are given a 50% tuition discount to promote the science and technology departments. The school saw 1,740 foreign students enroll in the first semester of 2011, and also operates a counseling center for foreign students, providing mentors, advice on cultural issues and opportunities to connect with local students. The Hanyang International Volunteer Association also helps new students get adjusted socially, from the time they enter the school until they find a job post-graduation. Korea University, one of the nations top schools, is one of the five Korean members of the International Student Exchange Program (ISEP). Last March, it established the International One Stop Service Center, which offers programs and services to help foreign students adapt to their surroundings. The center helped increase the foreign student body to 2,074 last year, which then led to the creation of additional services in English, Chinese and Japanese. Now, students can access counseling, job information services, emergency hotlines,

post-graduate networks, news about the student council and language exchange partners through the center. According to recent data from Japans Mori Memorial Foundation, a global research institute, Seoul was ranked 12th out of 35 cities in terms of the highest

number of foreign students. Both the universities and the government are working together to nurture international talent with quality education, unique opportunities and better management, as they match the explosive growth of the countrys foreign student population.

StUdent StatiStiCS
This data comes from a survey conducted by the Ministry of Education, Science and Technology. Until 2003, the survey covered technical colleges, four-year universities and graduate schools. Afterwards, it included cyber colleges as well.

NUMBER OF FOREIGN STUDENTS IN KOREA


100,000 80,000 60,000 40,000 20,000
12,314 16,832 32,557 22,526 49,270 63,952 75,850 83,842

2003

2004

2005

2006

2007

2008

2009

2010

NUMBER OF FOREIGN STUDENTS BY COUNTRY IN 2010


COUntrieS NUMBER OF FOREIGN STUDENTS PERCENTAGE CHina 57,783 68.9% JaPan 3,876 4.6% UnitedS StateS 2,193 2.6% vietnaM 1,914 2.3% taiWan 1,419 1.7% MOnGOL 3,333 4.0% OtHerS 13,324 15.9% tOtaL 83,842 100%

44 | korea | july 2011

www.korea.net | 45

my korea
Emerging from the air-conditioned Daewoo car into the heart of downtown Seoul in August was like having my body shrouded in an invisible pillowcase while simultaneously being shoved into a sauna. Clad in jeans and a T-shirt, I immediately began to sweat. I considered trying to get my hands on an egg to see if it really was hot enough to fry it on the sidewalk, but was dissuaded by the daunting idea of walking across the steaming road to the supermarket. All around us, businessmen in suits hustled back to their offices from lunch, seemingly undisturbed. Man, I thought, how have these guys not melted like sharply-dressed snowmen in this heat? My girlfriend and I had just landed in Korea, and a coworker from our new school had taken us straight from the arrivals terminal at the Incheon International Airport to the hotel that was to serve as our temporary home. Luckily, the eighth floor room had a powerful air conditioner, as well as a mini fridge that we quickly stocked with beverages. Although my girlfriend and I hail from cooler climates-she from Edinburgh and I from Toronto-we had lived in Hawaii without air conditioning for six months preceding our arrival in Seoul and were thus well-adjusted to high temperatures. The humidity, however, was something else entirely. While not especially wet for most of the year, Seoul receives-like many places in East Asia-a healthy drenching of rain in the summer. Generally called monsoon season in English, jangma begins in mid-June and lasts roughly two months. The average rainfall in Seoul during July is 369mm, and when it comes down, it tends to be more in the force of garden hose rather than Windex spray bottle. To put 369mm into perspective, the highest average rainfall for any month in New Orleans (the rainiest city in the US) is 151mm, less than half of Seouls level. The rain is then quickly vaporized by toasty summer temperatures-the July average high is just over 29C, slightly warmer than Los Angeles average. Seoul is also dotted with several small mountain ranges that block out most breezes, and is home to more than 3 million vehicles whose emissions tend to add to the greenhouse effect over the city center. When you add it all up, being in Seoul during the heart of jangma can make you sweat like a guilty politician on a polygraph. So how does one beat the heat, rain and humidity in one of the worlds largest metropolises? Despite the heavy summer rains-or perhaps because of their frequency-life seems to go on exactly as normal in Seoul during a rainstorm. At the first drops, a sea of umbrellas opens in one near-audible POP! But otherwise there is very little change; its even common to see elderly people slowly riding their bicycles through markets and lush parks with an umbrella carefully balanced in one hand. Without a doubt, the worst thing about the rain is the humidity it causes. It was grizzly at first: I relied on air conditioning at home and at work, but anytime I had to be outside, I perspired, wheezed and was generally miserable. Walking 10 minutes outside in that merciless pressure cooker would leave patches of sweat on my shirt. Even sundown offered only minimal relief; though the temperature might drop 6 or 7 degrees, the humidity would be ever-vigilant and constantly overwhelming. Our best-laid attempts to cut down our eco-footprint by only running the air conditioner for the hour or so between arriving home from work and sundown went straight out the window after the third night in a row of barely sleeping. My shirts were salt-stained and my legs chafed whenever I walked. Old people and small children chuckled as I dripped and shuffled by. Bah! Wussy foreigners! I imagined them thinking. In short, I appeared to be as much as a duck out of water as someone that damp could look. As it turned out however, all that sweating, combined with a more active lifestyle, was rather good for weight loss. In my first six weeks in Seoul, I lost 4.5kg. By the time fall had arrived and the humidity had subsided, I was 7kg lighter and feeling fantastic, thanks to Seouls food, climate and lifestyle. Koreas adult obesity rate is among the lowest of any developed nation, just 3.2%, compared to the 14.1% average for all other countries. Having less natural padding to lug around certainly

Beating Back Monsoon Blues


After braving the sweltering heat and humidity in Seoul for four summers, urban dweller Adam Bencze believes he is living proof that the old adage what doesnt kill you makes you stronger is true.
46 | korea | july 2011

www.korea.net | 47

helped make me feel more comfortable. Though I was happy to be carrying less weight, I knew that I would have to be prepared for the heat of the next jangma when it came. I didnt want to run my air conditioner all hours of the day and night like I had the previous year; the electricity bills had been high and hiding in my unnatural igloo left me poorly acclimatized to the city for times I needed to be outside. So a Korean friend recommended a solution that was traditional, sensible, cost-effective, and one that has no trouble waiting in your bed all day while youre out and about: he recommended I try a Dutch wife. The Korean word for the item, jukbuin, literally translates to bamboo wife, and has been used to keep cool at night for hundreds of years in Korea as well as the rest of Asia. It was nicknamed a Dutch wife in English because Dutch traders who spent time on the Spice Islands (Indonesia) introduced it to the Western world. Jukbuin are made by weaving thin strands of bamboo into a cylindrical lattice roughly the size of a petite human body. The idea is to spoon them-drape one arm and one leg over the structure whilst lying on your side. This is both comfortable and exposes the maximum amount of surface area of ones body to the air, rather than to ones bed or other sleeping surface. Bamboo mats can also be laid on top of a blanket and slept on, allowing a small cooling distance between your body and the soft bedding. Getting a good nights sleep is key, but if I hadnt found little strategies to keep cool during daylight hours, I likely would have turned tail and flown back to the Great White North long ago. Korea is well-known to boast spicy food served piping

hot all season long, but these days, more and more people are opting to eat naengmyeon for lunch in summertime. Naengmyeon means chilled noodles, and is a dish of buckwheat noodles served with julienned slices of cucumber, pear and slices of tender beef in a tangy broth cooled with ice cubes. Top that meal off with a popsicle or cold drink, and for the rest of the afternoon youll have your core body temperature safely outside of the red zone. Eating a thermally or spicy hot lunch may be a bad idea if youre prone to overheating in the sun, but at night huge droves of Seoul denizens go out and do just that all over the city. Cuts of beef and pork barbecued on grills embedded in serving tables, dak-galbi (spicy chicken with rice cake, sliced sweet potatoes and mixed vegetables) and giant spicy communal soups like kimchi-jjigae are common meals, and all are adept at activating sweat glands. And on rainy days, Koreans cook up pajeon (a savory pancake made with green onions) because the sound of the rain falling on leaves reminds them of the sizzling of the pan. This brings us to the biological explanation as to why spicy food is eaten in hot climates: sweating cools you down. And whether Seouls hungry masses eat spices to get their sweat on or not, washing the meal down with a few cold glasses of beer and some soju Korean liquor tends to help a person forget about the heat for a while. My girlfriend-who is now my fiance-and I have been in Seoul almost four years, and were as close to perfectly acclimatized to the heat as a person can get. We have one fan in our apartment to circulate air flow but dont use the air conditioner. We have no trouble sleeping, and though I still sweat a little, we dont fear the task of walking up a large hill in 30-degree humid weather to eat some kimchi-jjigae. Yes, I feel like Im finally a proper denizen of Seoul; I recently saw a gaggle of pale, sweating, scarcely-clad new arrivals seeking refuge in the shade and fanning themselves with magazines while PROFILE complaining loudly about Adam Bencze is a Canadian the heat. Bah! I national who loves thought, wussy traveling. He and his fiance have recently foreigners! decided to return to by Adam Bencze Canada, but will employ | illustrations by the cooling tricks they learned in the land of Jo Seung-yeon |
photograph by Park Jeong-roh
morning calm in their new home, should the need ever arise.

48 | korea | july 2011

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korean heritage
Yeongsanjae An element of Korean Buddhist culture, Yeongsanjae is a reenactment of Buddhas delivery of the Lotus Sutra on the Vulture Peak in India, which expresses both philosophical and spiritual messages. Preserved chiefly by the Bongwonsa Temple of the Taego Order of Korean Buddhism, the ceremony was designated in 1973 as Koreas Important Intangible Cultural Property No 50 and inscribed in 2009 on UNESCOs Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

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