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Some Notes on Equatorial Guinea

By Denise McVea September 13, 2011 ___________________________________________________________________ The author recently spent three weeks in the Republic of Equatorial Guinea, which is undergoing dramatic change. Below are some interesting facts and observations about this fascinating West African country. These musings are not meant to be comprehensive. Rather, the author hopes that these comments will animate the reader to learn more about what is clearly one of the most rapidly developing economies in the world.

EQUATORIAL GUINEA ********* The Republic of Equatorial Guinea (Republic de Guinea Equatorial) is the only Spanishspeaking country in Africa, and one of the smallest nations on the continent. In the late-1990s, American companies helped discover the country's oil and natural gas resources. Since 2005, EG has been substantially contributing to the global energy supply. Equatorial Guinea now serves as a pillar of stability and security in its region of West Central Africa. The country hosted the 2011 Summit of the African Union. ********* The country, under the stewardship of its President Obiang Nguema, is undergoing an absolutely unprecedented transformation. In the last five years, the infrastructure has improved dramatically, with a developing economy that is staggering in its evolution and diversity. The two main cities, Malabo and Bata, have been completely transformed, with stunning modern architecture mixing thoughtfully with preserved colonial-era structures. The newfound wealth of the country is evident everywhere you turn. Brand new roads, charming restaurants, and new buildings pop up every day. Massive infrastructure and public works projects are currently underway. ********* Equatorial Guinea is about the size of Maryland and has a population of less than a million people. The official language is Spanish, but most everyone also speaks Fang, the language of the dominant tribe of the same name. French is also widely spoken. The Fang seem to have a facility for languages. The first person I met was a young woman returning to EG from studying in Russia. We were in the Paris, France airport and she approached me to ask in French if I would watch her bags. I shook my head. She immediately switched to perfect English. Later, other EG students arrived and she began speaking to them, easily alternating between Fang and Spanish. I commented that she spoke four languages. She humbly replied that she also spoke Russian and Portuguese. I saw this language facility many times while in Equatorial Guinea.
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********* International companies are actively contributing to the development. Companies from China, the Arab world, Latin America, Spain and other countries have brought their employees to work side by side with the Equatoguineans in its amazing development, contributing to the worldly, cosmopolitan feel of the country. ********* Equatorial Guinea has a rich artistic culture. I had the privilege of dining with celebrated sculptor Leandro Mbomio Nsue and his family in Malabo. Mr. Mbomio is a leader in cultivating the country's culture. Like other leaders, he is very interested in collaborating with AfricanAmericans on shared historical and cultural projects. The city is undertaking countless art projects and connecting with American artists to continue to develop their rich and varied art world. Marlon Jackson, formerly of the Jackson Five, is among the American artists who are currently collaborating on projects. ********* Equato-Guineans have a special fondness for African-Americans, and have adopted aspects of our culture. The young men have created an engaging Latin infused form of rap, and hip hop and soul music can be heard to intermingle with Latin and African rhythms. I was told countless times that I was the first African American to visit who could speak Spanish. This made me somewhat of a celebrity and allowed me access to certain aspects of Equatoguinean society that might not be afforded to a non-Spanish speaker. I was constantly struck by the physical resemblance of the Fang to me and my family members. I sometimes felt overwhelmed with a sense of connection and shared history. ********* My purpose in Equatorial Guinea was to help document educational reforms in the country's primary school system. The program trained teachers, strengthened educational institutions, and implemented active schools methodology in the first grade. The program is unique for its size (national in scope, $50 million invested) and its partnerships (the Hess oil company and the EG government split the bill.) In my opinion, the first five years of this program have been a raging success and is a model for the rest of the developing and developed world. ********* Equatorial Guinea is generally more developed than Mexico or any of the Central American countries I have visited. In the countryside, things are much more rustic, but still very clean. I am struck at how clean and orderly the society is. ********* It is a conservative society. Socially, the people are extremely cordial and polite. People make a point to greet everyone by handshake when they enter a room, and boisterous displays are frowned upon. ********* The people are EXTREMELY good-looking, and tend to be well dressed and fashionable. Fashion is a rapidly developing sector here.

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********* Criminal behavior is addressed aggressively. It is said that you can leave $1000 on the sidewalk and come back for it later. The country is in the middle of judicial reforms, but there is little doubt that criminal punishment will remain severe. I have never felt as safe walking the streets of the United States. ********* The New York Times recently published a story about Equatorial Guinea, saying that the country had human rights abuses. I found this interesting, because before Equatorial Guinea discovered oil and became fabulously wealthy, the New York Times did not seem concerned about human rights in Equatorial Guinea. Also, they quoted people from 2009. ********* The Fang are polygamists. Some educated Equatoguinean women will not marry an Equatoguinean man, because they are determined not to share their husband with anyone else. I talked to some male Fang colleagues who had more than one wife, and I could see that the effort to maintain two households was not easy. They admitted that they had to manage a lot of jealousy and conflict between their wives. ********* The plant life is extremely diverse and unique. The soil and climate produce fruit trees that lean under the burden of their abundant crops. The food is delicious, and I was struck by the gravies, which tasted a lot like those found in soul food. ********* Recommended Reading: 1. Equatorial Guinea-State Department Report
http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1110.html 2. Vimeo-Improving Education in Equatorial Guinea http://vimeo.com/19745948 3. Portrait of a Nation-Equatorial Guinea http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a5XjD3QmppE 4. Equatorial Guinea Official Web Page http://www.guineaecuatorialpress.com/?lang=en

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