TDD-102

Unit-3

Dyeing methods and Pre-Treatment Of The Fabric or Fiber before Dyeing The general sequence of pre-treating the textile goods, gray fabrics when it comes out of the loom is quiet unattractive and contains natural and added impurities which give undesirable properties to the textile goods and the subsequent dyeing and printing cannot be carried out successfully. Different sizes like the starch, CMC are applied to the warp yarns to make them strong before weaving. These starches if not removed will make the fabric unsuitable for dyeing or printing or applying any other finishes. Also the natural fatty and waxy material present in the cotton yarn reduces its absorbency property this making it unsuitable for dyeing. Therefore Before the fabric is dyed or printed it has to be cleaned as a lot of impurities get collected during the journey from the fiber to fabric stage. These impurities are in the form of fatty and waxy materials, grease, dirt, twigs, starch, dust etc. It is important to give the pre- treatment as dyeing and some other finishes require high degree of absorbency for even application. 1. Singeing: In singeing the protruding fibers are burnt. It is a very skillful job and has to be done very carefully. There are 2 methods of singeing: Gas Singeing: The machine is provided with two gas burners which is supplied with a mix of coal gas and air under pressure. The gray fabric in open width passes over the gas burners in a slant form and the flame burns the protruding fibers. After singeing the fabric is immediately dipped in water to extinguish any sparks present in the fabric surface. The gray fabric is passed in an open width at a very high speed of about 70-100mts per min. By using two flames both the sides of the fabric can be singed at the same time. Hot Plate Singeing: In this the 2 copper plates are heated to redness either by means of coal or electricity. The plates are placed parallel to each other. The gray fabric is passed in open width in high speed between the two plates without touching the plates. Due to this the surface hairiness is burnt. The fabric later passes through a water container and is dried and folded. 2. De-sizing or Steeping: Size means starch. In this process the starch which is present in the yarns or the fabric is attacked along with the dirt, dust, twigs etc. De-sizing can be done by 3 methods1. Rot Steeping: It is the simplest method. The fabric is simply soaked in cold water for a minimum of 24 hours. This is the cheapest method as no chemicals are involved. 2. Acid Steeping: As the name suggests the fabric is treated with .25% HCl for a period of 2 hours. he fabric should be washed thoroughly after the treatment as any remains of the acid will damage the fabric or the yarn. 3. Enzyme steeping: A solution of 10% common salt with .5% to 1% enzyme is prepared. The material is soaked for 6 hours or overnight.

Dr. Parul Bhatnagar

Dayalbagh Educational Institute

TDD-102

Unit-3

3. Scouring: Scouring is done to remove the greasy and waxy materials which are associated with the textile fibers and are present naturally. Scouring, in essence is the treating the yarns or the fabric in an alkaline which has the property to emulsify the oily and greasy matter by the process of saponification. The emulsified fat remains suspended in the water solution leaving the fabric free from the waxy and greasy matter. The fabric is treated with soap solution along with caustic soda (1.5%) and soda ash (1%) for a period of 2-3 hours. The temperature is maintained at boiling point. The material is this further purified. Cotton can be treated with alkaline conditions while silk and wool which protein fibers are sensitive to alkaline solutions are treated with dilute acids to remove the impurities. For thin cottons the concentration of caustic soda can be increased to 3%. For fine cottons as the impurities are less the caustic soda can even be avoided. 4. Bleaching: Fabrics, yarns and fibers may be bleached to produce white fabrics or for preparation for dyeing or printing. Bleaching is a chemical finish It is a relatively durable process when the bleaching method is appropriate to the fiber involved. Various chemicals are used in bleaching depending on the textile fiber. Cellulosic fibers, such as cotton are bleached with chlorine compounds (E.g. Sodium Hypo-chloride) or hydrogen peroxide, which is a more frequently used alternative. Per-borate bleaches are available for home use, but they are seldom used commercially as the hydrogen peroxide reacts in much a safe way and is more effective. Chlorine compounds used for bleaching protein fibers result in the loss of fiber strength and eventual deterioration of the fabric. Wool and silk may be bleached by the use of sulfur dioxide gas in moisture. The method is called as STOVING by the industry and produces as less durable effect on wool as the wool may deoxidize in air and return to its original color. Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidation reaction type of bleach while sulphur dioxide is reduction bleach. Man- made textiles can be bleached by saturating the fabric with bleach solution; the temperature is raised according to the fiber involved for the prescribed time. Then the fabric is thoroughly washed and dried. The current trend of bleaching is the use of optical brighteners. Generally the manmade fabrics do not require bleaching as they are white if the manufacturing process has been carried out properly. Dyeing: The main objective of dyeing is to produce uniform and reproducible shades with maximum exhaustion of the dye in a short time. The colour may be added to the textile goods at any stage. a. The colour is added before the fabric is extruded from the spinnerets. This is called as Doup dyeing and is applicable on the synthetic dyes. This is also called as solution dyeing or spun dyeing. The fabrics made from the yarns with this by this method of dyeing have very good washing fastness as the dye becomes an integral part of the fiber.

Dr. Parul Bhatnagar

Dayalbagh Educational Institute

TDD-102

Unit-3

b. Dye can be applied on the fibers. When the fibers are dyed before being spun in to yarns then the method is called as Stock dyeing. In case of wool it is called as TOP dyeing. c. Dyes applied on the yarn stage d. Dye application in the fabric stage e. Dye application in the Garment stage. The basic steps involved in dyeing are as follows: A Impregnation on the colour: Soak the sample in the colour. B Development or Fixation of the colour C. After Treatment Soaping and washing D Drying Dyeing Of Loose fibers or Stock Dyeing: The simplest equipment used for dyeing is a rectangular beck made of wood or a cement beck. Loose fibers are dumped in which are occasionally stirred with a long rod. An improved form of equipment consists of a lid. The loose fibers are packed in this container and the dye is circulated with a pump. The direction of the flow can be reversed with the help of a control valve. There is also arrangement to regulate the liquor temperature and the provision for entering the loose fibers and for removing the dyed fibers. Dyeing of Yarns: When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarns, it is described as yarn dyeing. The purpose is to have the dye stuff penetrate to the fibers in the core of the yarn. The yarns can be dyed either in the form of a hank or they can be wound on a suitable package like a spool or a cone or bobbins. The most common method is to use a perforated metal spool on which the yarn is wound and dyed. The yarns can also be beam dyed. The primary reason for dyeing in the yarn form is to create interesting check, stripes with coloured yarns in the weaving process. Chambrays, seersuckers, plaid, gigham are woven with different coloured threads. Yarns dyed are usually deeper and richer in colour. 1. Hank or skein dyeing: The yarn may be prepared in a skein or hank form and is then dyed. The loose arrangement of the yarn allows easy allows for excellent dye penetration. The simplest equipment consists of a rectangular tank which is provided with a steam pipe at the base for heating dye solution. Water inlet and outlet pipes are also fixed. Number of hanks each weighting about 200gms are suspended from the top of the tank on a rod and almost of the tank is filled with dye solution. 2 dyers standing on either side of the tank rotate the hanks from time to time. Dyeing is started at room temperature and gradually is increased by letting the steam in. This is the most expensive method of yarn dyeing but the colour penetration is best and the yarns retain a softer texture. 2. Package dyeing: Yarn wound on spools, cones, or similar units and then dyed is referred as package-dyed yarn. The packages of yarn are stacked on perforated rods in a rack and then immersed in a tank wherein the dye is forced outward from the rods under pressure through the spools and then back through the package toward the centre to penetrate the entire yarn as thoroughly as possible. Most cotton used for knitted outerwear is package dyed.

Dr. Parul Bhatnagar

Dayalbagh Educational Institute

TDD-102

Unit-3

3. Warp-Beam Dyeing: The method is similar to package dyeing but is more economical. Yarn is wound onto perforated warp beam, immersed in tank, and dyed under pressure or the dye liquor is circulated through the vessel. It is used when fabrics are to be woven with dyed warp yarns. 4. Space Dyeing: Yarn that is space dyes is dyed at interval along its length. One procedure is the knit de-knit method in which the yarn is knitted on a knitting machine. The knitted cloth is then dyed and then it is de-knitted. The dye penetrates the loops of the yarns but since it does not readily penetrates the areas on the yarn where it crosses itself, alternating dyed and un-dyed space appears. Variations in hue are possible in the fabrics subsequently produced. 5. Piece or garment dyeing: The great bulk of dyed fabrics in the market are piece dyed. This method allows the producers to have small lots of fabrics of all finds of fibers in batches. It is a thoroughly satisfactory as regards to evenness in dyeing, and over fastness if proper dye selection is made. Fabrics can be piece dyes whether it is composed of only one kind of fiber or yarn or blends of different fibers or combination of different yarns. When the fabric is made of one kind of firber then the dyeing is relatively uncomplicated because one dye is used. However, when the fabric contains a blend of fibers the a special procedure is required that are specific to one particular fiber used. These procedure are called as union dyeing and cross dyeing.

Dr. Parul Bhatnagar

Dayalbagh Educational Institute