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9. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following: a. Make sure the Woodruff key (Figure 10) is in place on the crankshaft and align the keyway in the rotor with the key when installing the rotor. b. Install and tighten the rotor bolt to the torque specification in Table 2. To keep the rotor from turning, hold it with the same tool used during removal. See Figure 12. Stator Assembly Removal/Installation 1. Remove the magneto rotor as described under Rotor Removal/Installation in this chapter. 2. Remove the fuel tank as described in Chapter Eight. 3. Disconnect the electrical wire connectors from the magneto to the CDI unit. See Figure 13 or Figure 14. 4. Note the timing marks on the stator plate and on the crankcase. These must be realigned during installation. If necessary, make a mark on the stator plate at the centerline of the left-hand attachment screw (A, Figure 15). 5. Remove the screws securing the stator plate. 6. Carefully pull the electrical harness out along with the rubber grommet from the crankcase and any holding clips on the engine. 7. Remove the stator assembly (B, Figure 15). 8. Install by reversing these removal steps, noting the following. 9. Route the electrical wires in the same way they were. Make sure to keep them away from the exhaust system. 10. Realign the stator plate and crankcase timing marks for preliminary ignition timing. 11. Check and adjust the ignition timing as described in Chapter Three. Stator Coil Testing The stator coils can be inspected for continuity without removing them from the bike. With the engine off, disconnect the connector from the magneto and measure the resistance between the pairs of leads listed in Table 1. If the resistance is zero (short circuit) or infinite (open circuit), check the wiring to the coils, and replace the coils if the wiring is okay. CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION UNIT Removal/Installation 1. Support the bike on the sidestand. 2. Remove the seat and fuel tank. 3. Disconnect the CDI electrical connector.

CHAPTER NINE

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 4. Remove the CDI mounting bolts and remove the CDI unit. See Figure 16 (1983-1985) or A, Figure 17 (1986-on). 5. Installation is the reverse of these steps.
Testing

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IGNITION COIL Removal/Installation 1. Support the bike on the sidestand. 2. Remove the seat and fuel tank. 3. Disconnect the electrical wires to the ignition coil. 4. Remove the screws securing the ignition coil to the frame and remove it. See Figure 18 (1983-1985) or B, Figure 17 (1986-on). 5. Install by reversing these removal steps. Make sure all electrical connectors are tight and free of corrosion. Make sure the ground wire is secured tightly.

The capacitor discharge ignition unit can only be tested with special electrical equipment. Refer all testing to a Kawasaki dealer.

Testing If the functional condition of the coil is in doubt, there are several checks which should be made. Disconnect the coil wires before testing. 1. Measure the coil primary resistance using an ohmmeter set at R x 1 (Figure 19A). Measure the resistance between the primary terminal and the mounting flange. See Table 1 for test specifications. 2. Measure the secondary resistance using an ohmmeter set at R x 1,000 (Figure 19A). Measure the resistance between the secondary lead (spark plug lead) and the mounting flange. See Table 1 for test specifications. 3. If the meter indicates an open circuit (no continuity) in Step 2, unplug the high-tension lead from the coil and test it again with the meter lead connected directly to the contact pin in the coil cap. If there is continuity, the trouble is in the high-tension lead. It may be a bad connection at the spark plug or an internal break in the wire. Make sure the connection is good and check the lead for continuity. If an open circuit is still indicated, replace the hightension lead. 4. If the high tension lead has continuity, but there is no continuity in Step 2, the coil itself is defective and must be replaced. NOTE Continuity in both the primary and secondary windings in the coil is not a guarantee that the unit is in top working order; only an operational test can tell if a coil is producing an adequate spark from the input voltage. Your motorcycle dealer or auto electrical repair shop may have the equipment to test the coiVs output. If not, substitute a known good coil to see if the problem goes away.