Subjective And Objective Handling

OBJECTIVE HANDLING:
Anything that can be assessed through use of instrument is known as objective handling. Some of the properties that can be assessed instrumentally are color measurement, change in color of a specimen, whiteness index, fabric stiffness, drape, crease recovery, fabric friction etc.

1. SPECTROPHOTOMETER:
The spectrophotometer is a physical tool which is eminently suited to measure the most important variable of all, the shade and strength of the dyestuffs themselves, whether they be in solution or on the fiber. The spectrophotometer quantitatively measures the fraction of light that passes through a given solution. In a spectrophotometer, a light from the lamp is guided through a monochromator, which picks light of one particular wavelength out of the continuous spectrum. This light passes through the sample that is being measured. After the sample, the intensity of the remaining light is measured with a photodiode or other light sensor, and the transmittance for this wavelength is then calculated. In short, the sequence of events in a spectrophotometer is as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. The light source shines through the sample. The sample absorbs light. The detector detects how much light the sample has absorbed. The detector then converts how much light the sample absorbed into a number. The numbers are either plotted straight away, or are transmitted to a computer to be further manipulated (e.g. curve smoothing, baseline correction)

The use of spectrophotometers is not limited to studies in physics. They are also commonly used in other scientific fields such as chemistry, biochemistry, and molecular biology. They are widely used in many industries including printing and forensic examination.

2. COLORIMETER:
In Colorimeters the combination of the spectral-power distribution of the instrument source and the spectral response of its photodetector are adjusted by modifying filters to make the instrument approximately direct reading in CIE coordinates within linear transformations. Colorimeters measure the color of a sample compared to a white control surface and output data for x, y and z values. Used to color-match or color-mix, these relatively simple devices can often be found in the textile, paint and design industries.

Subjective And Objective Handling 3. IMPORTANCE OF COLOR MEASUREMENT IN TEXTILES:

In textile laboratory instrumentation consists of a bench top spectrophotometer that can be used for a number of functions. These include the measurement of transmittance to check the strength and shade of incoming colorants and the calculation of performance ratios of new colorants. There are many auxiliary functions that color system performs. These include color gamut analysis for proper dye selection and the measurement of color fastness properties. Production: In production there are two main functions for color measurement. The first is to determine whether or not the sample falls within the tolerance boundaries for a standard, and the second is to aid the calculation of dye corrections to adjust the shade of a dying. Typically a swatch is cut from a material and taken to color measurement system for testing. The results are calculated and delivered to those persons who make decisions on what to do to the process. Quality Assurance: In quality assurance areas, color measurement has been used to measure the final shade of textiles.

4. ASSESSMENT OF WHITENESS:
Whiteness is generally assessed instrumentally as physical measurements provide objective values that are independent of the age and color sensitivity of the eyes. All instrumental methods illuminate the sample and the measure the amount of light reflected. They thus have the added advantage that the illuminant and the viewing conditions can be closely specified. The assessment ranges from the measurement of reflectance at a single wave length to a complete spectral scan which can be computer processed to give a color difference or Whiteness. /default. Anders and Daul, one of which is recommended in the AATCC test method 110, have reviewed these whiteness indices.

5. STIFFNESS TEST:
This test method covers the measurement of stiffness properties of fabrics. by allowing a narrow strip of the fabric to bend to a fixed angle under its own weight. The length of the fabric required to bend to this angle is measured and is known as the bending length. Before the test the specimens are precondition for 4 hour and then conditioned for 24h. The higher the bending length the stiffer is the fabric. Two procedures are provided.

Subjective And Objective Handling

Option ACantilever Test, employing the principle of cantilever bending of the fabric under its own mass. Option BHeart Loop Test, employing the principle of a loop formed in a fabric strip and hung vertically.

This test method applies to most fabrics including woven fabrics, air bag fabrics, blankets, napped fabrics, knitted fabrics, layered fabrics, pile fabrics. The fabrics may be untreated, heavily sized, coated, resin-treated, or otherwise treated. The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard. The U.S. customary units may be approximate.

6. BENDING LENGTH:
A form of the cantilever stiffness test used as a measure of a fabrics stiffness as it is an easy test to carry out. In the test a horizontal strip of fabric is clamped at one end and the rest of the strip allowed hanging under its own weight.

7. DRAPE TEST:
Drape of fabric can be studied by objective assessment and this is done with the help of an instrument. Monoplanar test and multiplanar test are used to measure fabric drape quantitatively.

Monoplanar test:
Monoplanar test is based on measurement of fabric stiffness. Stiffness is the key factor in the study of drape. Quantitatively stiffness of fabric is measured in terms of the bending length or flexural rigidity. Stiffness tester based on cantilever principle is used to measure bending length. A strip of fabric is pushed forward until gravity causes the strip to bend to a prescribed length. This approach is still used today in analyzing drape properties for strip geometries.

Multiplanar test:
Stiffness values are measured only in one direction (either warp or weft) at a time where as drapability is the result of interaction between warp way and weft way characteristics of fabric. The experimental method generally involves hanging fabric specimen of 15 cm. radius over supporting disc of 9 cm. radius. Unsupported area drapes down under its own weight. Drape is measured as drape ratio or drape coefficient which theoretically varies from 0 to 100.

Subjective And Objective Handling

Drapemeter:
An instrument known as drapemeter, which is capable of distorting the fabric in all three directions is used to evaluate drape quantitatively. Drapemeter measures three dimensional fabric drape due to gravity. Circular drapemeter has been most widely used to study fabric drape and factors affecting it.

8. CREASE RECOVERY:
The essence of the test is that a small fabric specimen is folded in two and placed under a load for a given length of time to form a crease and it is then allowed to recover for a further length of time and the angle of the crease that remains is measured. The magnitude of this crease recovery angle is an indication of the ability of a fabric to recover from accidental creasing.

9. FABRIC FRICTION:
In this method a block of mass m is pulled over a flat rigid surface which is covered with the fabric being tested. The line connected to the block is led around the frictionless pulley and connected to an appropriate load cell in a tensile testing machine. This can measure the force F required both to start the block moving and also to keep it moving, thus providing the static and dynamic coefficient of friction.

10.DETECTION AND ASSESSMENT OF PHOTOCHROMISM:

This part of ISO 105 specifies a method intended for detecting and assessing change in color, after brief exposure to light, of colored textiles which change in color on exposure to light but which virtually return to their original shade when stored in the dark. Principle: A specimen of the textile is exposed to light of high intensity for a time much shorter than that necessary to cause a permanent change. The change in color of the specimen is assessed immediately after exposure, using the grey scale. The specimen is then stored in the dark and assessed again.

SUBJECTIVE HANDLING:
Anything that can be assessed through use of scales or replica is known as subjective handling. Different examples are as follows:

1. COLOR FASTNESS TESTS:

a) COLOR FASTNESS TO LAUNDERING:
After the laundering of the specimen we evaluate it for shade change and staining by using grey scale:

Subjective And Objective Handling

Rate the amount of color transferred from the specimen to the multifiber under examination by means of the Gray Scale for Staining. Rate the change in shade of tested specimen with comparison of original specimen by means of Gray scale for shade change.

b) COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION:

After performing the perspiration test we evaluate the test results through grey scale for staining and shade change.

c) COLOR FASTNESS TO CHLORINE AND NON CHLORINE BLEACH:

Chlorine bleach fastness test: This test method is designed to evaluate the color fastness to chlorine bleach of textiles. The fabric color changes from liquid chlorine bleach using drop test method. Rate the change in shade of tested specimen is evaluated with comparison of original specimen by means of Gray scale for shade change. Non chlorine bleach fastness test: This test method is designed to evaluate the color fastness to non chlorine bleach of textiles. The fabric color remains unchanged from liquid chlorine bleach using drop test method. Rate the change in shade of tested specimen is evaluated with comparison of original specimen by means of Gray scale for shade change.

d) COLOR FASTNESS TO DRY CLEANING:

A specimen of the textile in contact with cotton fabric, multifiber swatch and non-corrodible steel discs is agitated in perchloroethylene and then dried in air. Any change in color of the specimen is then assessed with the standard Gray Scale for Color Change. Any staining is assessed by using the Gray Scale for Staining. This test method is intended for determining the colorfastness of textiles to all kinds to dry cleaning.

e) COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION:

This test method is used to determine the fastness of colored textiles to the effects of acid perspiration. It is applicable to dyed, printed or otherwise colored textile fibers, yarns and fabrics of all kinds and to the testing of dyestuffs as applied to textiles. A specimen of colored textile in contact with other fiber materials (for color transfer) is wet out in acid perspiration solution, subjected to a fixed mechanical pressure and allowed to dry slowly at a slightly elevated temperature. After conditioning, the specimen is evaluated for color change and the other fiber materials are evaluated for color transfer (staining).

Subjective And Objective Handling

f) COLORFASTNESS TO DOMESTIC AND COMMERICAL LAUNDERING : Scope and field of application:
This part of IS0 105 specifies methods intended for determining the resistance of the color of textiles of all kinds and in all forms to domestic or commercial laundering procedures used for normal household articles. Industrial and hospital articles may be subjected to special laundering procedures which may be more severe in some respects. The color loss and staining resulting from desorption and/or abrasive action in one "S'' (single) test closely approximates to one commercial or domestic laundering. The results of one "M" (multiple) test may in some cases be approximated by the results of up to five domestic or commercial launderings at temperatures not exceeding 70C. The "M" tests are more severe than the "S" tests because of an increase in mechanical action. These methods do not reflect the effect of optical brighteners present in commercial washing products.

Principle:
A specimen of the textile in contact with specified adjacent fabric or fabrics is laundered, rinsed and dried. Specimens are laundered under appropriate conditions of temperature, alkalinity, bleaching and abrasive action such that the result is obtained in a conveniently short time. The abrasive action is accomplished by the use of a low liquor ratio and an appropriate number of steel balls. The change in color of the specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric or fabrics are assessed with the grey scales.

2. WATER REPELLENCY TEST:

This test method is applicable to any textile fabric, which may or may not have been given a water-repellent finish. It measures the resistance of fabrics to wetting by water. It is especially suitable for measuring the water-repellent efficacy of finishes applied to fabrics.

Evaluation:
Immediately after tapping, compare the wet or spotted pattern with the rating chart Rate the face of the specimen. Each test specimen is assigned a rating corresponding to the nearest level on the rating chart. Intermediate ratings can be used for ratings of 50 or higher (95, 85, 75, and 60).

Rating:
100 (ISO 5) 90 (ISO 4) 80 (ISO 3) : No sticking or wetting of the specimen Face : Slight or random sticking or wetting of the specimen face : wetting of the specimen face at spray point

Subjective And Objective Handling

70 (ISO 2) 50 (ISO 1) 0 : Partial wetting of the specimen face beyond the spray points : complete wetting of the entire specimen face beyond spray point : complete wetting of the entire face of specimen

3. PILLING TESTS:
This test method covers the determination of the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on textile fabrics using the Martindale tester. The procedure generally is applicable to all types of fabrics, being particularly suitable for woven fabrics. Counting the pills on the fabric is very time consuming and it is also difficult to decide which surface disturbances constitute pills. The more usual way of evaluating the sample is to assess the pilling subjectively by comparing it with either standard samples or with photographs of them. Mostly scales are divided into five grades as follows: 5no pilling 4slight pilling 3moderate pilling 2severe pilling 1very severe pilling