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KNITTING OR FABRICATION
There are 2 types of knitting. One is Circular knitting (Tubular knit). Another is Flat knitting. Circular knit is used to knit body fabrics. Flat knit is used to knit Collars & Cuffs. There is another type of flat knit machines which are used to make Sweaters (Tricot garments). With these machines, the body fabrics, sleeves and necks are being made. And they are joining together with the help of linking machines. We have to note that the attachments of these parts are done with the main yarns. No separate sewing threads are used for joining. Buyers use to call these garments as Knitted garments or Tricot garments or Sweaters. Mostly acrylic and wool yarns are used. Lower counts like 2s, 4s, 6s, etc are used. T shirts, polo shirts are also called knitted garments. As the body, sleeves, collars, cuffs are cut separately and joined together, some buyers use to call these garments as Cut & Sewn Garments. When we discuss about Knit garments, there are many things to be taken care of. Yarn counts, suitable knitting machines, machine gauge, machine diameter, numbers of feeders, grey fabric GSM, loop length, grey fabric diameter, etc should be well considered before start knitting. The fabric before processing is called Greige fabric. It is also called Grey fabric (kora fabric). Machine Gauge: There are different types of fabric structure like Jersey, Pique, Interlock, Rib, French rib (loop knit), Flat back rib, Fleece, Herring bone, etc. Knitting machines are available in different gauges. 2GG, 3GG, 4GG, 5GG, 7GG machines are used for sweater knitting (Tricot knit). Fabrics like Jersey, Pique, Rib and Interlock are knitted on 14GG, 16GG, 18GG, 20GG, 24GG, 26GG, 28GG, 30GG suitably. The fabric is knitted according to the cam design. If we need any different type of knitting, the cams in cylinder and dial should be adjusted accordingly. Gauge is meant by the number of needles per inch. For example, 24GG machine will have 24 needles per inch; 30GG machine will have 30 needles per inch. If we need more needles per inch, we have to go for higher gauge machine. As the higher Gauge machines are having more needles per inch, the fabric will be knitted tightly. And the fabric will have lesser shrinkage and better feeling. According to the machine gauge, the yarn counts to be selected and used. If the Gauge is higher, the thinner yarn can be used. If the Gauge is lesser, the thicker yarn can be used. 13 13

When making knitting program, our aim must be to make tight knitting with better fabric feeling and less shrinkage. Accordingly we must plan to use the higher yarn counts and higher gauge knitting machines. So the yarn count selection is more important according to the selected Gauge machine. Also the machine Gauge to be selected according to the selected yarn count. For example, for Jersey fabric, we can achieve 140GSM either by using 34s yarn & 26GG machine or by using 30s yarn & 24GG machine. To get better quality fabric, it is preferable to use 34s yarn & 26GG machine. Texture: As warp and weft are making woven fabrics, there are 2 things making the knit fabric. They are Wales and Course. Wales is the vertical yarn. Course is the horizontal yarn. Wales lines are fixed by the machine gauge. This can not be changed.

Coarse lines can be altered by adjusting in the machine. This is called Texture. By adjusting this texture, the required fabric GSM (Grey or kora) can be achieved. Diameter: As the knit fabrics are made in tubular form, the patterns for making garments are being made according to tubular fabrics. Hence the diameter of fabric is very important. When we talk about Diameter, we must take care of various diameters. They are diameter of the machine, diameter of the grey fabric, diameter of the processed fabric and diameter of the finished fabric. These diameters will not be the same. Our ultimate aim is to get the required diameter of the finished fabric according to the patterns. So we have to check these diameters carefully at every stage. Diameter of the machine will not be changed. But after knitting, each type of fabric will be in different diameters. For example, if Jersey fabric is knitted in 30 diameter machine, the grey fabric diameter will be plus or minus 1. That is, between 29 and 31. But if Pique fabric is knitted in 30 diameter machine, the grey fabric diameter will be 37. Likewise, each type of grey fabric will be in different diameter according to the knitting method and nature of the fabric design. During processing, the fabrics will be soaked in dyes for more than 5 hours. So the fabric will shrink both in widthwise and lengthwise depends on fabric texture. And the diameter will be changed accordingly. If the fabric is knitted with lower texture, the fabric will grow in widthwise during processing. Hence the diameter will be increased enormously. If the fabric is knitted tightly by using higher yarn counts, higher gauge machines and with higher texture, we can minimise this difference. After processing also, each type of fabric will be in different diameter. For example, if the grey fabric diameter of Jersey is 30, then the diameter after processing will be 29. But if the grey diameter of Pique is 37, then the diameter after processing will be 34. 14 14

Diameter of the finished fabric should be suitable for patterns and for cutting. If this diameter is smaller than the pattern, then we can not cut the fabric as per our program. If this diameter is larger than the pattern, then there will be more fabric wastage. If there are 1 or 2 inches difference, it can be corrected during compacting or other finishing process. So the fixing of finished fabric diameter is based on pattern requirements. Finished diameter is based on processed diameter; processed diameter is based on grey diameter; grey diameter is based on machine diameter; machine diameter is based on the fabric nature. Hence the selection of machine diameter is very important to get required finished fabric diameter. Also as we have seen earlier, we have to pay more attention to fix the yarn counts, machine gauge, texture and grey GSM. Approximate knitting charges per kg in Rs.: Jersey 8 Pique 15 Interlock 18 1x1 rib 15 Jersey with Lycra 25

Pique with Lycra 25 Rib with Lycra 30 Feeder stripes Jersey 12 Feeder stripes Pique 18 Feeder stripes Interlock 20 Feeder stripes rib 15 Engg stripes Jersey 40-60 Engg stripes Pique 50-70 Engg stripes Interlock 40-60 Engg stripes Rib 110-130 Regarding yarn stripes, if the repeat width of stripes is below 3.5cms, it can be knitted in normal machines. Colour yarns should be feed in according to the stripes. As the stripes are adjusted by the yarn feeders, it is called Feeder stripes. We have to note that a maximum of 3.5cms of repeat width of stripes is possible to knit with the ordinary machines. If the repeat width is more than 3.5cms, then it is called Engineering stripes or Auto stripes. These engineering stripes can be knitted with special kind of machines. The knitting charges for these engineering stripes are very higher. KNITTING WITH ELASTAN (SPANDEX): Knitting of 100%Cotton yarn is easy. As poly cotton yarns are blended in fiber stage itself, we get the single yarn with blends. Hence knitting of these blended yarns is also easy. When we knit the fabrics with different quality of yarns together, we have to be careful of their counts. Generally the synthetic yarns like polyester, viscose, polyamide (nylon), and 15 15

elastan (spandex) are measured in Denier. But the cotton yarns are measured in Counts. We need the thickness of both yarns to be the same. So when we knit cotton yarns with these synthetic yarns, we must be sure of using the suitable denier yarn. To select suitable denier, we can use following conversion formula. Counts = 5315 Denier Denier = 5315 Counts Let us see an example of knitting Cotton/Lycra (Elastan) fabric. If we use 38s counts of cotton yarn, then we have to use same 38s counts of Lycra yarn. Then only the knitting will be even. In order to select the suitable denier, we use the above formula. We see that 140 Denier is equal to 38s counts. So, 140 denier Lycra yarn is to be used for this fabric. Also, during knitting, the number of feeders of Lycra yarn is to be decided according to the required percentage of Lycra. This is the same procedure for the other synthetic yarns too.

16 16

PRE-PROCESSING
We are making the fabric, wishing to get the finished fabric with following qualities. - GSM (as per Purchase Order) - Diameter (as per Pattern) - Shrinkage (as per the tolerance normally below 5%) - Colour (shade, fastness as per approval) - Fabric feeling (as per requirement) To fulfill all these important things, we have to check following things before knitting. -GSM during knitting, before processing, after processing, before finishing or compacting, after compacting (on cutting table). -Diameter machine diameter, before processing, after processing, before finishing or compacting, after compacting (on cutting table). -Shrinkage before compacting and after compacting. -Colour shade and fastness before and after finishing. -Fabric feeling should be controlled during knitting, processing and compacting. We must be aware the fact that even if we use the same mill yarn, same knitting machine, same dyeing factory and same finishing process, we will not get the same result every time. For example, even if we use the same mill yarn but with different yarn lots, we will get different results. Likewise we will get different results due to knitting machine make, gauge, processing methods, qualities of dyes & chemicals, processing timing, processing water quality, compacting method & temperature, etc. So it is not possible to define the entire system with 100% conformity. Hence regarding knitted fabrics, we always expect different results every time and every time we must be prepared for avoiding the differences or deviations. Due to the above reasons, after processing, there will be shade variations between lots. If we take more care during processing, these variations can be limited. But we can not avoid shade variations between lots 100%. At the same time, we must be aware that there should not be shade variation between body, sleeves, collar and cuffs in one garment. Also there should not be shade variation between garments of different sizes which are packed in one carton. This is very important. Even though the buyer knows that the lot to lot shade variations can not be avoided 100%, they will expect at least no shading between garments packed in one carton. To avoid shade variations, we have to follow the following procedures. To avoid shading between body, sleeves, collar, cuffs, rib, rope, twill tape: 1. Grey fabrics for body, sleeves and grey collars, cuffs, rib, rope, twill tape should be knitted with same mill yarn from the same yarn lot. 2. Fabric for body, sleeves, collar, cuffs, etc., should be dyed or processed in one lot only. 17 17

The Knits
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learnitboyleft a comment this report is priceless. many many thanks for sharing. 11 / 05 / 2010 Reply

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