Florida Cracker Cookin'

[ Copyr i ght 1 984
LaFray Publ i shi ng Company

ALL RI GHTS RESERVED
I ncl udi ng the Rfgh
f
.Of Reproduct i on
i n Whol e owart.i n
l
n
,rm
'
Fi rst Edi t i on
FOR ADDI TI ONAL COPI ES, USE ORDER BLAN KS I N
TH E BACK OF THE BOOK OR WRI TE DIRECTLY TO:
LaFray Pu bl i shi ng Company
P. O. Box 76400
St. Petersburg, Fl ori da 33734 81 3-821 -3233
Pri nted i n the Un i ted States of Ameri ca
International Standard Book Number: 0-942084-07-1
Li brary of Congress Card Catalog Number: 83-082687
First Printi ng: February 1 984
0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
PUBLISHER: Joyce S. LaFray-Young
TEXT BY: bj Al tschul
PHOTOGRAPHY: bj Al tschul
EDITORIAL FOOD CONSULTANTS:
Susan Shepard
Lau ra DeSal vo
Joyce LaFray-Young
COVER ART AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY: Adel e Sgro
Pat Stockey
ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER: Betty Jo Schi es
TYPOGRAPHY AND DESIGN: Mari ner Typographers I nc.
Addi t i onal photos courtesy of Fl ori da State Archi ves,
Tal l ahassee
The fol l owi ng songs or excerpts thereof are pri nted wi t h permi ssi on:
I Want To Be A Florida Cracker 1977 Cl i fford J. Buckosh
Back Roads 1982 Don Grooms
Mangrove Buccaneer 1975 Dal e Crider
Hold Back The Waters Of Lake Okeechobee 1980 Wi ll McLean
I'm A Cracker (Carl Allen's Song) Frank Thomas
COVER ART BY ADELE SGRO
rayVvb|s//ngCcm]an,
St. |trburg, |!orida
I Wan To Be
A Florida Cracker
1977 CliHord J. Buckosh
All rights resered
Wish mv mama knew how to cook swamp cabbage
Wish mv daddy had a ratesnake hide
Wish I knew how to Ax some conch hiters
Wish I had me a Seminole bride.
Chorug:
I wan to be a Aorida Cracker
But I'll never get a chance to tr
I wan to be a Aorida Cracker
But I'll be a damn Yankee 'til I die.
love them alligator, pink famingo
Kumquat, avocado, Key lime pie
Can't get enough of that
Sunshine sur's up
Never get enough 0 that clear blue sky.
Osceola, Flagler, Ponce', Menendez
All knew that they found something good
KeV West smugglers, Tarpon sponge diers
Never would leave even i they could.
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To the people o Florida

-past, presen and fture
and especiallv for
those who presele the state's natie foodwavs
in places where everone may savor
these recipes
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NOTES FROM
THE TEST KITCHENS
For those of us i n the test ki tchens, test i ng the reci pes for
CRACKER COOKI N' was a uni que experi ence. Some of the
cooki ng procedures were new to us. Some of the i ngredi ents
were unusual . We had no i dea that there were so many i n
terest i ng ways to prepare swamp cabbage-we had seen i t
onl y i n sal ads. The fri ed steak, much t o our surpri se, wasn't
the l east bi t g reasy. The qui ck fryi ng seal ed i n the j ui ces and
the fl avor. The I ndi an reci pes proved to be del i ghtful . We' d
never tri ed an "I ndi an burger" before. And, we d i scovered
that t ryi ng regi onal cooki ng methods can i ndeed expand
one' s cul i nary educat i on.
Many of the reci pes were submi tted i n bul k quanti ti es t hat
we had to al ter for fami ly-si zed porti ons, because our ai m was
to make the reci pes as easy as possi bl e to fol l ow. The i ngre
di ents are l i sted in the order of use. Where appropri ate, we
noted substi tuti ons where an i ngredi ent may be d i ffi cul t to
f i nd in your area. Pl ease note that cooki n g and preparation
t i mes are approxi mate, si nce everyone works at a di fferent
speed. There are al so heat i ng variat i ons i n gas and el ectri c
stoves.
Here are a few suggestions:
Before market i ng and pl anni ng your meal , read the reci pe
over careful l y to el i mi nate any surpri ses. Several reci pes have
an overni ght mari nat i ng t i me .
Consul t your l ocal butcher for unusual cuts of meat cal l ed
for so he can hel p you choose the best cuts or recommend
al ternatives.
Don' t be afrai d to try a reci pe that sounds unusual or uses
i ngredi ents i n an unusual way. Most l i kel y you wi l l be pl eased
wi th the outcome.
Wel come to thi s adventure i n CRACKER GOOKI N'. We
know that you wi l l enj oy i t as much as we have !
!
Laura DeSalvo
Susan Shepard
A NOrE
FROM THE
P
UBLISHER
Here' s your gui de to THE OTHER FLORI DA, the real
Fl ori da, as we resi dents know it to be. You' l l di scover foods
that Fl ori di ans have been proud of for many years, at remote
restaurants that you mi ght otherwi se never know. CRACKER
COOKI N' i ntroduces you to the peopl e, the scenery and the
Fl ori da back-country that has l ong been a secret to many.
Author Marj ori e Ki nnan Rawl i ngs cal l ed i t an enchanted l and,
and i ndeed i t i s.
The eateri es sel ected were careful l y chosen and are much
more than j ust restaurants . . . they' re statements of Fl ori da' s
heri tage wi th much i nformati on about our past tradi ti ons i n
food preparati on.
bj Al tschul , our wri ter, has trul y made thi s a l abor of l ove.
Her t hi rsty i nterest i n THE OTHER FLORI DA, together wi t h her
enthusi asti c devoti on to our Sunshi ne State, have made t hi s
t he story of Fl ori da and one that we i nvi te you to enj oy al ong
wi th us. J ust as Marj ori e Ki nnan Rawl i ngs, author of Cross
Creek, sai d about her homel and, we can al so say about
Fl ori da, that she "bel ongs to the wi nd and the rai n, to the sun
and t he seasons, t o t he cosmi c secrecy of seed, and beyond
al l , t o ti me. "
Whether you enj oy these reci pes i n t he restaurants or i n
t he comfort of your home, we know that you' l l enj oy your tour
of Famous Fl ori da!
N11
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Though not a Fl ori da Cracker by bi rt h or occu pat i on, bj
Al tschul has l i ved i n the Sunshi ne State l ong enough to con
si der hersel f a "semi - nat i ve. " Through her act i vi t i es as a
foundi ng member of the Fl ori da Fol kl ore Soci et y and a vol
unteer at t he annual Fl ori da Fol k Festi val i n Whi te Spri ngs,
she has cul t i vated fri endshi ps wi t h many tal ented i ndi
vi dual s who are "Crackers, " a "Cracker" bei ng one who was
born and rai sed here.
Professi onal l y, her years of experi ence as a publ i c rel at i ons
counsel or, edi tor and wri ter for ci ty, reg i onal and touri st
publ i cat i ons have brought her i n frequent contact wi th
much of the state' s h i story and i ts t radi t i ons. bj i s a frequent
contri butor to l ocal , state and nati onal publ i cat i ons. At pres
ent, she i s i nvol ved i n her own con sul t i ng pract i ce, Capi tal
Communi cat i ons of Tampa.
Li sted i n WHO' S WHO I N THE SOUTH AND SOUTHWEST,
Ms. Al tschul i s an act i ve member of the Publ i c Rel at i ons
Soci ety of Ameri ca, the Fl or i da Freel ance Wri ters Associ a
t i on, the Fl ori da Mot i on Pi ct ure Tel evi si on Associ at i on,
and the Nat i onal Associ at i on of Creat i ve Chi l dren and
Adu l ts. She has served as a grant revi ew panel i st for the
Fi ne Arts Counci l of Fl ori da and l ect urer for the Fl ori da Sun
coast Wri ters' Conference.
Ori gi nal l y from Norfol k, Vi rgi ni a, she now cal l s Tampa
home. A Fl ori da resi dent si nce 1 967, she attended Goucher
Col l ege i n Towson, Maryl and, and compl eted her Bachel or of
Arts i n Interdi sci pl i nary Soci al Sci ence as a Dean' s Li st stu
dent at the Un i versi ty of South Fl ori da. Currentl y she i s work
i ng on her thesi s for a Master of Arts i n Ameri can St udi es, a
nat ural basi s for compi l i ng t hi s engagi ng revi ew of Cracker
foodways i n Fl ori da. Her wri t i ng and organi zat i onal abi l i ty
have been prai sed by Wernher von Braun, the Sal vador Dal i
Foundat i on, Fl ori da Secretary of State George Fi restone, and
many busi ness, medi a and academi c professi onal s.
N111
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Somet i mes you don' t know where a fragment of f ol kl ore
comes from, j ust that i t' s there. So it is wi t h much of the
hi story i n these pages. I t coul d be a t i dbi t from an anecdote
tol d by one of the restaurant owners. Or i t coul d be a fact
gl eaned from the vol umes of publ i shed Fl ori da hi story. Or i t
coul d be a phrase that j ust "happened, " perhaps from some
one we met but we can' t recal l who or when or where or even
how.
So i t' s d i ff i cul t to thank every i ndi vi dual by name who
di rect l y or i ndi rect l y hel ped us compi l e t hi s col l ect i on of
reci pes or contri buted to the narrat i ve. There are a few
whom I ' d personal l y l i ke to si ngl e out because t hey've so
great l y i nf l uenced my love for Fl ori da and consequentl y thi s
research. Fi rst, Cousi n Thel ma Bol t i n, mi stress of cere
moni es for the Fl ori da Fol k Fest i val , i nsti l l s i n al l who meet
her a deep feel i ng for the Fl ori da of ol d, the Fl ori da of nat ure.
A speci al thank you al so to the fol ksi ngers and fol kl ori sts
who have granted permi ssi on to pri nt the words to thei r
songs or have i n other ways l ent thei r support and encour
agement-Cl i ff Buckosh, Don Grooms, Wi l l McLean, Gambl e
Rogers, Dr. Patri ci a Waterman, Dal e Cri der, Frank Thomas,
Semi nol e Tri bal Chai rman James Bi l l i e, and numerous
others.
The staff of the Fl ori da Fol k Li fe Center at the Stephen
Foster Memori al deserves speci al menti on, as do those at the
Fl ori da State Archi ves, the Department of Nat ural Resources,
the Game and Fresh Water Fi sh Commi ssi on, and the Fl ori da
Col l ecti on at the Uni versi ty of South Fl ori da Li brary.
We'd al so l i ke to thank the food edi tors of magazi nes and
newspapers across the state and the many others who sug
gested these gret eateri es. And, of course, our deepest
grati tude goes to the restaurant owners themsel ves for taki ng
thei r t i me to share thei r stori es and t hei r reci pes. Thi s col l ec
ti on woul d not exi st wi thout them.
O]Altschul
17
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INTODUCION
Fl orida's history represents a mel ange of events, per
sonal i ti es, and i nf l uences from different countries. I ts
regional "foodways, " according to fol kl ore, are the endur i ng
ways of preparing native foods al ong with the customs for
serving them. Even though there isn't any one dominant
theme behind the overal l statewide cui si ne, each section of
the state and each of several maj or foods has made a con
tributi on that i s an i ntegral part of Fl orida's cul inary identity.
We must take issue wi th Waverl ey Root's assessment of
Fl ori da food as "characterized by an overwhel mi ng abun
dance of raw materi al s and a rather spectacul ar absence of
good cooki ng. " On the contrary, we've found that it' s j ust a
matter of knowi ng where to l ook and what to l ook for.
Thi s col l ection of reci pes from "down-home" restaurants
throughout Fl ori da represents an effort to l ocate the pl aces
that sti l l serve traditional di shes-di shes that evol ved from
the days of expl orat i on, pi oneer settl ement, ethnic heritage
uni que to Fl ori da, and the "good 01' days" of j ust a few
decades ago. You' l l discover several uses of the term
"Cracker"-defi ned as not onl y someone who was born and
rai sed i n the Sunshi ne State, but al so a "Cracker cowboy, " a
cow hunter who cracked his whip as he rust l ed herds of
cattl e.
How did we sel ect the eateries i n CRACKER COOKI N'?
Through a variety of research methods and recommenda
ti ons from fol ks around the state. We contacted food wri ters
and edi tors, food afici onados, and j ust pl ain went l ooki ng
f or ' em. I t wasn' t so easy t o f i nd exactl y the ki nds of pl aces
we wanted i n every communi ty!
Most of the reci pes were previousl y unpubl ished. It was
genui nel y rewarding to have found such a generous spi rit
among the owners who shared wi th us these special tradi
tions and t hei r contemporary favorites.
Xl
I f you pl an to vi si t any of these restaurants, cal l ahead to
fi nd out hours and days open. The restaurant busi ness i s
hi ghl y changeabl e, and whi l e most that we've i ncl uded have
done thi ngs the same way for decades, you never know when
a change may occur.
Al so, state regul at i ons regardi ng protected speci es of
f l ora and fauna may vary from year to year, so we' ve i ncl uded
i nformati on i n the Appendi x so t hat you may contact the
appropri ate agenci es di rectl y.
CRACKER COOKI N' i s organ i zed geographi cal l y so t hat
you may use i t as a tour gui de i n each regi on of t he state. I n
t hose communi t i es where we' ve i ncl uded more than one
restaurant, they' re presented i n al phabet i cal order.
You ' l l f i nd the Appendi x a great hel p i n your quest for
great cui si ne. The Festi val s Cal endar wi l l hel p you pl an you r
travel s around a food theme that i s t i ed i n wi th hi story. The
Reference Li st wi l l d i rect you to addi t i onal i nformat i on
about Fl ori da' s nati ve cui si ne.
We know you ' l l enj oy your j ourney t hrough t he back roads
of Fl ori da, i nto the ki tchens where "mom and pop" estab
l i shments are very much al i ve.
Garri son Kei l I or, host of the popul ar Prairie Home Com
panion show broadcast weekl y on the Ameri can Publ i c
Radi o Network, personi f i es t he warmth of smal l -town
Ameri ca. I n t hi s col l ecti on we offer you our versi on of what
you mi ght cal l a "Cracker Home Compani on, " an i nvi tat i on
to di ne i n "The Ot her Fl ori da. "
711
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Restaurants-i n geographi c order
NORTHWEST
Coffee Cup, Pensacol a . . . . . . e . e . e . . e . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Dai nty-Del , Pensacol a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . e . . . . . . . . 8
Hopki ns Boardi ng House, Pensacol a . . . e . . . . . . . . . 1 5
Mama Col e' s Cafe, Panama Ci ty . . . . . . . . . e . . . . . . 21
J u l i a Mae' s Town- I nn, Carrabel l e . . . . . . . . . . . . s . . . . 25
Wakul l a Spr i ngs Lodge, Waku l l a Spri ngs . e s . . e . . . 29
NORTHEAST
Parson' s, Mayport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . e . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
S.W. Cowboy' s, St. August i ne . . e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . e 41
Q' Steen' s, St. August i ne s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Vi l ano Seafood Shack, St. August i ne . . . . . e . . . . . . . 50
Robert ' s Dock, Lake Ci ty . . . . . . . . . . . . . e e . . . . . . . . 54
Mama Lo' s, Gai nesvi l l e . s . . e . . . . . . . a . . . . . . . 61
The Pri mrose I nn, Gai nesvi l l e . . . . . . e . . . . . . . e . . . . e 69
The Yearl i ng, Cross Creek . . . s . . . . . s . . e . . e . . . . 73
WEST CENTRAL
Johnson' s, Cedar Key . . . . . . . . . + e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant, Masaryktown . e e . . . 83
Buddy Freddys, Pl ant Ci ty . . . . . . . . . . . u . . e . . . . . . 91
Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe, Auburndal e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Acapul co Cafe, Zol fo Spri ngs . . . . . e . . . . . e . . . . . . 1 1 1
Latam Restaurant, Tampa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 8
La Teresi ta, Tampa . . e . . . . . . e . . . . . . . . . . . e . . . s . 1 27
Mel ' s Hot Dogs, Tampa . . . . . . . s . . . e s . . . . . . . 1 32
Si l ver Ri ng Cafe, Ybor Ci ty (Tampa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 36
Pau l ' s Shri mp, Tarpon Spri ngs . . . . . e e . . . e . . . . e . 1 39
The Chattaway, St. Petersburg . . . e . . . . . + . . . . . . e . 1 46
Jack' s Skyway, St. Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 51
Doe-AI Country Cooki n' , South Pasadena . . . . . . . . . 1 56
Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fi sh,
Sout h Pasadena . e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . e e . . . . . . . . 1 62
7111
EAST CENTRAL
Hampton' s, Daytona Beach s s s e e s s e s = s e s s s s e e s e 1 65
The Old Span i sh Sugar Mi l l , Deleon Spr i ngs s s e e e e 1 73
Ovi edo I nn, Ovi edo s e s e e e s e e s s e e e s e s s s e s s s s e s s 1 78
The Catf i sh Pl ace, St . Cl oud e s s e e s e e e s s s s s s s s s e 1 85
Suncrest Restaurant, Mel bourne e e a s s s s s s s s e s e e s 1 90
SOUTHEAST
Ye Tower Lunch, Lantana e s e s e e s e s e s e e s e e e s s e s 1 95
La Esqu i na de Tejas, Mi ami e s s s e s s e s e e e e e e e s e e e 1 99
Mal aga, Mi ami e e e s s e s e e s e s s e s e e s s s e e s s e s s s s 205
The Spi ral , Coral Gabl es e s s e e e e e e e e e s s e e s s s e s s e 21 3
Mi ccosukee Restaurant , Tami ami Trai l ( Mi ami ) s e s e 220
Mangrove Mama' s, Sugar Loaf Key e s e e e e s s e s e e s 226
Hal f Shel l Raw Bar, Key West e s e s e s s s s e e e s e e e e e e 235
Pepe' s Cafe, Key West e s a e e s e e s e s s s s s e e s e s e e s e 242
SOUTHWEST
Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant, LaBel l e e s e e e e s e s e e s 249
Gator Gri l l, Marco I sl and s s e e e e e s e s e s e s s e s s e e s s e 259
State Farmers Market Restaurant , Ft. Myers e s e e e 262
Buttonwood Bar B-O, San i bel e e e e e e e e e s s s s s e s s 266
The Crab Trap, Palmetto s e e e e e e e e e e e e e e s s e e e s 273
APPENDI X
Glossary s s e e e e s e s s e s e s s e e e e e s e s e e s e e e e s s e e s e 277
Fl ori da Foods = e s e s e s s e e e e e e e e s e e e s e e e e e s s e s e 280
Where To Get Answers About Fl ori da' s
Pl ant And Ani mal Li fe s s s e s e s s = s s s s e e s e s s s e s 286
Festi val s Cal endar s e s e e s s s e e s s e e s e s e s e e s s e e s s 287
Reference Li st e s s e e e s e e s s e e s s s e s s s e s e s s s e e s e e 292
I ndex of Reci pes e s e e e s e s s s s s s s s e s s e s = e s s s s e s e 296
21N
Cofee Cup
Pensacola
I t ' s j ust a pl ai n whi te bu i l di ng on the outsi de and has j ust a
pl ai n 1 950s-styl e decor on the i nsi de. But Pensacol a' s Coffee
Cup i s one l ocal i nst i tuti on that' s been packi ng its customers
i n si nce the day it opened i n 1 945. The'food i s whol esome,
the servi ce i s fri endl y, pri ces are l ow, and the take-out servi ce
for homemade pi es i s as busy as the restaurant i tsel f.
The process of servi ng guests at the Coffee Cup i s such a
hubbub al l day l ong that you' d be mi staken to thi n k there' s a
. qui eter t i me of day to mosey i n or out at l ei sure. The tabl es
are f i l l ed al most from the moment the restaurant opens u nt i l
i t ' s t i me t o cl ose, and there' s often a l i ne of customers
wai t i ng for seats or for carry-out orders.
Thi s busy eatery i s known for good home-styl e food, and
especi al l y for Nassau gri ts. These are an ori gi nal adaptati on
of tradi t i onal Southern gri ts, wi th tomato sauce and other
i ngredi ents added. The restaurant staff butchers i ts own beef
and makes i ts own chi cken steaks and cut l ets. Long-t i me
chef Wi l l i e Lai rd uses no i nstant mi xes and i nsi sts on cook
i ng everyt hi ng l ong enough for al l the fl avors to be at thei r
best.
Owners Frederi ck and Earl i ne Cl eavel and and vari ous
members of t hei r fami l y have owned the Coffee Cup si nce the
earl y 1970s. Wi l l i e and several of the ot her cooks and
wai tresses have been there al most from the begi nni ng. And
they' re on a fi rst-name basi s wi th many of thei r regul ar
customers. Some have been comi ng here so many years that
you coul d al most set your cl ock by when t hey arri ve. The
restaurant i s popul ar wi th pol i t i ci ans, too-one who enjoyed
the hotcakes was former Fl ori da Governor Reubi n Askew. On
another occasion, t he Coffee Cup even sent hi m some batter
di rect l y to Tal l ahassee, the state capi tal .
If you si t at the counter for breakfast, pay cl ose attenti on to
the short-order cooks at the gri l l . They' l l fl i p some of the f l uf
f i est omel ets around, never mi ssi ng a beat . And take a l ook
around you. The seats at the counter may remi nd you of an
ol d soda fountai n of the 1 950s.
I t' s a good pl ace to start the day i n t hi s Panhandl e ci ty wi t h
i t s t hri vi ng Naval Base and del ightful restored hi stori c areas.
Directions: The Coffee Cup is at 520 East Cervantes. From
1 -1 10 into downtown, exit at Cervantes Street. Tur left
(east) and drive to the Coffee Cup.
While you're here: Home of the world's largest Naval Air
Station and the Navy's precision flying team, the Blue
Angels, Pensacola is considered a choice stateside assign
ment among service personnel. The Sea and Land Survival
Exhibit and the Naval Aviation Museum show the history of
American aviation. The aircraft training carrier, the USS Lex
ington, is open to the public when she is in port.
2
SPANISH OMELE
2 eggs
2 oz. vegetabl e shorteni ng or butter
Coffee Cup
Pensacola
Spani sh Sauce (see reci pe for Amberjack wi th
Creole Sauce, page 4)
Beat eggs i n bl ender. Mel t short eni ng or butter i n
ski l l et. Pour eggs i nto ski l l et. As eggs begi n t o set
around edge of ski l l et, l i ft edges of eggs wi t h spat ul a
so that runny part on t op goes to bottom f or cooki ng.
Fol d omel et over i t sel f and sl i de ont o heated pl at e.
Pour hot Spani sh Sauce over omel et before servi ng.
For a Western omel et add a mi xt ure of 3 tabl espoons
each of bel l pepper and oni on and 7t cup ham, cut
up, to t he eggs i n t he ski l l et. Fol d omel et .
Serves: 1
Preparat i on: 5 mi n utes
Cooki ng: 5 mi nutes
liThe Spanish Sauce adds a spicy tang to this simple
omelet. "
3
Coffee Cup
Pensacola
AMBERJACK WI SPANISH SAUCE
Make Spanish Sauce ahead:
SPANISH SAUCE
1 large oni on, chopped
2 stal ks cel ery, chopped
1 bell pepper, chopped
bacon grease
1 smal l can crushed tomatoes
1 smal l can tomato sauce
1 % t. flour
1 % t. butter
2 bay leaves
pi nch sweet basi l
dash hot sauce
dash Worcestershire
dash Soy sauce
sal t and pepper to taste
Saute onion, celery, and pepper in a little bacon
grease. Pour in tomatoes and tomato sauce and mix.
Make a roux* by melting the butter and stirring in the
flour. Cook for a minute or two, then add to tomato
mixture. Stir mixture until it thickens and comes to a
boil. Add bay leaves and remaining ingredients and
simmer for 10 minutes or until mixture reaches a
gravy base consistency. Stir frequently.
*See Glossary.
4
Whi l e sauce i s cooki ng prepare f i sh:
6 fi l l ets of fi sh, cut in 6-oz. pieces
% C. cl ari fi ed butter
1 T. chopped parsl ey
2 t. l emon j ui ce
papri ka
Coffee Cup
Pensacola
Pat f i l l ets out f l at wi t h a pounder. Mel t cl ari fed butter
and cook sl owl y unt i l l i ght brown. Sti r i n parsl ey and
l emon j u i ce and si mmer for about 5 mi nutes. Pl ace
f i l l ets i n an ovenproof buttered pan and pour l emon
butter over. Spri nkl e papri ka on top. Pour warm
Spani sh Sauce over t he f i sh. Bake at 350 . for
30 mi nutes unt i l f i sh fl akes. Check after 1 5 mi nutes.
Serves: 6
Preparat i on: 20 mi nutes
Cooki ng: 30 mi n utes
"Amberjack is a Gulf fish, a member of the salmon
family. Try this tasty sauce with any other fat fish
such as pompano, sea trout or halibut. Excellent!"
O
Coffee Cup
Pensacola
NASSAU GRIS
2 C. Quaker qui ck gri ts (or your favorite brand)
1 oni on, chopped
1 bell pepper, chopped
4 strips bacon
1 C. l eftover ham or sausage
1 smal l can tomatoes
Prepare gri t s accordi ng to i nst ruct i ons on package.
Saute oni on and pepper. Fry bacon unt i l cr i sp, savi ng
grease. Add bacon and leftover ham or sausage to
oni ons and peppers. Mi x i n tomatoes. Add ent i re
mi xt ure to gri t s, addi ng bacon fat to reach desi red
text ure. Heat j ust enough to warm t hrough. St i r wel l
and serve.
Serves: 2-4
Preparat i on: 1 0- 1 5 mi nutes
"This is an easy dish that tastes even better when
reheated. Make your own variations with your choice
of 'odds and ends' or leftovers. We didn't have any
leftovers, so we made this as a side dish with pork
chops. Enjoy it meal after meal!"
6
RUTABAGA CHUNKS
1 l arge rutabaga
2 oz. ham ski n
water
dash sugar
Coffee Cup
Pensacola
Peel rutabaga, sl i ce in quarters, and t hen cut i n
chunks. Boi l ham ski n unt i l tender, about an hour.
Add rutabaga chunks and enough water to cover.
Add a dash of sugar, sal t, and pepper to taste. Cook
unt i l t ender, about 30 mi nutes on top of stove or 1
hour i n oven, to al l ow t he meat f l avor to be absorbed
i nto the vegetabl e. An al ternat i ve way to prepare t hi s
di sh i s wi t h ham or bacon stock ( i ncl udi ng t he
grease) i nstead of water and ham ski n.
Serves: 1 0-1 2
Preparat i on: 1 hour
Cooki ng: 1 '/ 2-2 hours
"This is a good side dish with pork chops and
greens. Be sure to add the dash of sugar because it
really brings out the flavor. "
7
Daint Del
Pensacola
Even though the Greek f l ag i sn't one that gave Pensacol a
i ts cl ai m as the "Ci ty of Fi ve Fl ags, " there has l ong been a
very si zabl e Greek communi ty here. Duri ng the f i rst hal f of
the 1 9t h cent ury the ci ty el ected the fi rst Greek mayor i n the
Uni ted States. And f rom the earl y 1 920s, the Dai nty Del
Restaurant has been Greek-owned and managed.
Today's owner, George Georgi ades, and hi s t hree sons
cater to a l arge and devoted fol l owi ng. Devotees used to
come for the hamburgers, oysters, and sandwi ches when
they coul dn't afford more expensi ve meal s. Now t hat these
"fans" are ret i red, they sti l l come to the Dai nty Del , whi ch, as
George says, has kept i ts i mage over the years. As the ol dest
seafood restaurant i n town, i t has remai ned popul ar wi th an
n i versary cel ebrants and many of the Worl d War II Gol den
Eagl e pi l ots i n town. A ret i red county judge from Pensacol a
characterizes the restaurant as a pl ace f or the real ol d-ti mers,
fol ks who can recount some of the ci ty' s most i nteresti ng and
i ntri cate hi stori cal detai l s.
George wi l l probabl y tel l you a f ew detai l s hi msel f i f he' s
out front host i ng and not busy i n t he ki t chen. He' s the ki nd of
d
host who l i kes to be everywhere at once, al ways maki ng sure
he' s feedi ng hi s guests good food "j ust l i ke I want to eat i t . I
was never sati sfi ed for someone el se to cook for me, " he
says of hi s days growi ng up, when he used to cook al ongsi de
hi s mother at home i n Greece.
"There' s somet hi ng i n every human bei ng, every cook to
create, " he adds. For hi m the speci al ty i s charcoal -broi l ed
seafood to preserve the best fi sh fl avor. He does most of the
"i mportant" cooki ng h i msel f, al l based on reci pes and tech
ni ques t hat he l earned from hi s mother.
One day he'l l be test i ng a new ki nd of gri l l . The next day
he'l l be experi ment i ng wi t h rot i sseri e sti cks i n a new
barbecue so t hat he can roast the best Greek chi cken, l amb,
pork and beef. Wi th a twi nkl e i n hi s eyes, he' l l tel l you what
the day's speci al s are-Whol e Broi l ed Snapper or Span i sh
Mackerel , Stuffed Whol e Fl ounder, or Oysters Rockefel l er.
Do try the oysters; he i nsi sts on buyi ng "the bi ggest and t he
best" f or hi s customers.
Ask hi m why so many Greeks came to Pensacol a and
became i nvol ved i n communi ty l i fe and f i shi ng. He' l l tel l you
i t' s because t hey l ove the water. It 's a beaut i f ul vi ew here.
Directions: The Dainty Del is at 286 North Palafox Street.
From 1-1 1 0 into downtown, exit at Cervantes Street and tur
right (west). Tur left (south) on Palafox Street to address;
Dainty Del is on the east side of the street.
While you're here: Pensacola is a history-lover's delight. The
town was actually the first attempt at settlement in the New
World, predating St. Augustine by six years. But the Spanish
colony organized by Don Tristan de Luna was abandoned
when ships bearing supplies were wiped out by storms at
sea. Today, the Sevi l l e Square Hi storical Di strict presents the
Shopkeepers of Historic Seville. There are more than 30
shops, galleries, restaurants and museums in restored and
well-maintained old cottages and mansions. There's probably
not a single 19th-century wooden architectural style not
represented. Special events throughout the year recreate
everything from a Gay'90s atmosphere to the city's Spanish
heritage during the Fiesta of Five Flags, every May.
9
Dainty Del
Pensacola
CHARCOAL-BROILED SHRI MP
6 j umbo shri mp per servi ng
% oz. butter (approxi mately)
% oz. l emon j ui ce (approxi matel y)
2 pi nches oregano
2 pi nches sal t and pepper
Melt butter in small saucepan with an equal amount
of lemon juice. Add oregano, salt and pepper. Coat
shrimp in mixture and broil for 2 minutes on each
side over hot coals.
Serves: 1
Preparation: 3 minutes
Cooking: 5 minutes
"A quick way to prepare this Florida specialty. "
10
CHARCOAL-BROILED SCAMP
1 9-1 0 oz. scamp * steak per serving
2 oz. ol ive oi l (approxi mately)
2 oz. l emon j ui ce (approxi matel y)
2 pi nches oregano
2 pi nches sal t and pepper
Dainty Del
Pensacola
Make a mixture of equal amounts of olive oil and
lemon juice. Add oregano, salt and pepper. Brush
mixture on scamp steaks and cook over hot coals.
Baste every few minutes. Scamp is done when juices
stop flowing.
Serves: 1
Cooking: 20-30 minutes
"This is similar to Charcoal-Broiled Shrimp, but you
do need to cook the scamp longer. Scamp is a super
tasting fish."
'If not avai l abl e, substitute any firm l ean fi sh.
11
Dainty Del
Pensacola
CRB MET DRESSI NG
1 C. mayonnai se
1 C. mustard
1 C. oni ons, chopped
1 C. cel ery, chopped
1 C. crushed crackers
at l east 2 I bs. fresh cooked crab meat
1 %-2 T. fi sh or Ol d Bay seasoni ng
salt and pepper to taste
Mi x al l i ngredi ent s wel l . Bake or broi l unt i l hot . Can
be served st uffed i n shri mp or al one, wi t h some ri ce
on t he si de. Al ternat i ve method: stuff shri mp and fry
unt i l shri mp are done.
Serves: 4-6
Cooki ng: 7-1 0 mi nutes
"This is an easy dish for lunch or dinner. Serve with
a green salad. "
!7
Dainty Del
Pensacola
BROI LED SNAPPER OR MACKEREL
6-8 oz. fresh snapper or mackerel fi l l ets
fresh oni on, chopped or sl iced
pepper (no sal t!)
pi nch oregano
paprika
j ui ce of half a fresh lemon
ol ive oil to taste
parsl ey, chopped, to garni sh
Pl ace f i l l ets i n a buttered baki ng di sh. Add oni ons.
Spri nkl e very l i ght l y wi t h pepper, oregano, and
papri ka. Add l emon j ui ce and ol i ve oi l . Bake at 350 O F.
unt i l f i sh f l akes, about 1 0 to 1 5 mi nutes. Garni sh wi t h
parsl ey and serve.
Serves: 1
Preparat i on: 1 0 mi nutes
Cooki ng: 1 0- 1 5 mi nutes
"A simple way to enhance the flavor of fresh fillets.
Serve with boiled new potatoes, buttered and
parsleyed, or serve with buttered wide noodles. "
!3
Dainty Del
Pensacola
SPECIAL SNAPPER
4 8-9 oz. snapper steaks
olive oi l
1 l arge oni on, fi nel y chopped
1 bel l pepper, fi nel y chopped
1 smal l carrot, fi nel y chopped
4-5 l arge mushrooms, quartered
2-3 smal l fresh tomatoes, roughl y chopped
Coat snapper wi t h ol i ve oi l and broi l i n broi l er or over
hot coal s for about 1 0 mi nutes or unt i I done. Saut
e
al l vegetabl es except tomatoes i n about 2
tabl espoons of ol i ve oi l . Spread saut
e
ed vegetabl es
and chopped tomatoes over snapper.
Serves: 4
Cooki ng: about 1 2-1 5 mi nutes
"Be sure not to cook the tomatoes. They make a
pleasant contrast to the cooked vegetables. "
!
Hopkins Boarding
House
Pensacola
The sett i ng and at mosphere at Hopki ns Boarding House
are reminiscent of a John Stei nbeck novel -guests are al l
ages, transi ent and l ong-term resi dents, some weathered by
experience and some just start i ng out t hei r l ives. I n typi cal
board i ng house styl e, fami l i es and strangers si t toget her at
the same tabl e and no one remai ns a stranger for l ong.
"Woul d you pass the bl ack-eyed peas and the spi ced
appl es, pl ease?"
"Sure. Where you from?"
And another fri endl y conversati on begi ns.
Arki e Bel l "Ma" Hopki ns f i rst entered t he business i n
1948 and did al l t he cooki ng hersel f . She emphasi zed the
board i ng house aspect, feeding onl y its three or four
lodgers, with guests seated at a si ngl e l ong tabl e. Now it ' s
the other way around. The restaurant i s the mai n part of the
business, though there's sti l l room for a hal f-dozen boarders
at the present l ocati on on Spri ng Street. There are now t hree
15
di ni ng areas, with a few fami l y-si ze tabl es in add i t i on to the
l ong ones.
Ma Hopki ns wel comes you i nto her home, whi ch i s
l ocated in t he hi storic di strict of Pensacol a. Hi gh cei l i ngs,
famil y memorabi l i a, ant i ques, and carved f i repl aces l end a
sense of nostal gia to t he graceful ol d bui l di ng.
What's different about boardi ng house di ning i s t hat you
don't pl ace an order from a menu. The food-and l ots of
it-is al ready on the tabl e, and you j ust hel p yoursel f . At
Hopki ns Boardi ng House i t's a Sout hern feast, everyt hing
from heapi ng bowl s of gri ts at breakfast to an array of
freshl y cooked vegetabl es and fri ed chicken or an al ternate
entree at l u nch and di nner. At one t i me, some of the
vegetabl es were even grown i n thei r own garden and pi cked
fresh dail y. This was no doubt a carryover f rom Ma Hopkins'
having grown up on a farm. Today t he vegetabl es are bought
fresh from l ocal farmers. At one time Ma Hopkins used t o
stay up al l night baki ng pies by hersel f, but now t hat's a
shared responsibi l i ty t hat extends to cobbl ers and puddi ngs
as wel l .
Another characteri stic of a boarding house meal is t hat
you can serve you rsel f as much as you l i ke. Cheerful
wait resses keep the l arge bowl s fi l l ed al l t he t i me. Guests
come and go t hroughout t he meal . And when you're ready to
l eave, take your pl at e to the ki t chen. You pay on your way
out.
And wi th al l t he passi ng of food back and fort h, a boarding
house reach probabl y won' t be necessary, but i t ' s not out of
pl ace, ei t her!
Directions: Hopkins Boarding House is at 900 North Spring
Street. From 1- 1 10 all the way into town, tur right (west) on
Cervantes Street (U. S. 90 and 98). Tur right again (north) on
Spring Street to address.
While you're here: Hopkins Boarding House is in the North
Hi l l Preserati on District, a 60-block area of restored homes
from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, beautifully tree
shaded and a joy for a "Sunday drive. " Fort George Park
represents the only Revolutionary War battle fought in
Florida, and Lee Square is a tribute to the Confederacy. Near
by downtown is peppered with historic churches, hotels, of
fice buildings, and the Saenger Theatre, which was called
"Florida's Greatest Showplace" when it first opened in 1925.
16
Hopkins Boarding House
Pensacola
MAMA' S FANCY RICE AND CHICKEN
1 l arge (3%-4 l b.) fryer
1 C. ri ce, uncooked
1 medi um oni on, di ced
% C. di ced cel ery
% C. diced bel l pepper
1 smal l jar pi mi ento, di ced
Cut fryer in quarters. Salt and pepper to taste. Bake
in covered pan in 375 of. oven about one hour or until
tender. Remove and cover to keep warm. Add three
cups water to drippings and brown particles. Scrape
all particles from pan. Place in saucepan with rice
and vegetables. Cook until rice is done, about
45 minutes. Place in dish with chicken and serve at
once.
Serves: 4
Cooking: 45 minutes plus one hour
"An easy maincourse dish. "
17
Pensacola
VER GOOD FRUI SALD
(chi l l overn i ght)
1 I g. can pi neappl e t i dbi ts
1 I g. can frui t cocktai l
1 smal l j ar maraschi no cherri es, halved
1 C. pecans, broken or coarsel y chopped
1 8-oz" pkg. shredded coconut
1 smal l pkg. (1 0-oz.) smal l marshmal l ows
1 C. sour cream
Drai n f rui ts wel l . Mi x al l i ngredi ents and st i r i n sour
cream. Refri gerate overni ght before servi ng.
Serves: 8-1 0
Preparat i on: 5-1 0 mi nutes pl us ch i l l i ng overni ght
"You can save the liquid from the fruits to use as a
quick topping for ice cream. This recipe is perfect to
take to a potluck supper. Or, halve the ingredients
and serve to your family or guests."
Id
Pensacola
LEMON CHIFFON PIE
1 C. boi l i ng water
1 T. butter
2 l arge l emons
4 egg yol ks
% C. sugar
3 T. cornstarch
1 0" baked pi e crust
MERI NGUE
4 egg whi tes
4 T. sugar
pi nch of cream of tartar
Place boiling water and butter in top of double boiler.
Wash lemons. Grate rind and add t o
w
ater and
butt er. Squeeze lemon juice into a cup. Beat egg
yolks. Mix % C. sugar and cornstarch wit h egg yolks,
add lemon juice and beat well. Add t his mixture t o
boiling water, but t er and lemon rind. Cook and stir
until t hick. Beat egg whites, 4 T. sugar, and pinch of
cream of t artar unt il stiff and fold half of this mixt ure
into the lemon mixt ure, saving remainder for
meringue. Pour into baked pie shell. Spread balance
of egg whites on top and brown lightly in oven or
under broiler. Keep a sharp eye on t he meringue so it
doesn't burn.
Serves: 8
Preparat ion: 20 minutes
Cooking: 15 minutes
"We tested this recipe early one morning. By noon it
was all gone!"
19
Mama Cole
'
s Cafe
Panama Ci
Some pl aces t hat don' t l ook l i ke much from t he outsi de
bel i e the fact t hat i nsi de i s a sou l that permeates every
morsel of food served, down to the l ast crumb on t he pl ate.
Such a pl ace i s Mama Col e' s, home of soul food i n
Panama Ci ty for cl ose t o t hree decades. Dur i ng t hat ti me, i t
seems, everyone i n town has come to know Luci l l e Col e' s
sure hand i n the ki t chen. Located j ust a few bl ocks from Bay
Memori al Hospi t al and downtown ci ty offi ce bui l di ngs, the
t i ny caf
e
has pl ayed host to count l ess pri vate di n ner part i es,
bi rthday cel ebrat i ons, and other speci al occasi ons. Some
fol ks who l i ve i n t he regi on dri ve as far as 20 mi l es just for
Mama Col e' s home cooki n'.
I t doesn' t matter t hat there are onl y fi ve tabl es, decorated
wi t h red oi l cl oth tabl ecl oths, or that t he f l oor i n si de sl opes
to one si de. The tangy aroma of barbecue sauce, ri bs,
chi cken, cornbread, and t urni p greens gets your ol factory
senses i n gear. I t's the food and t he hospi tal i ty t hat you
remember most.
Daught er Mercy, who i s grown now and a successf ul
model and cosmetol ogi st, used t o stand on a chai r and wash
21
di shes when she was a chi l d. Fami l y members have hel ped
run the cafe over t he years, and today Mama Col e' s n i eces
are the wai tresses. Mama Cole hersel f f i rst began cooki ng
when she was 1 2, start i ng out i n Enterpri se, Al abama, her
hometown . At t he start of Worl d War I I she came to Panama
Ci ty for what she thought was goi ng to be a weekend vaca
t i on, but she never l eft. She marri ed and a few years l ater
opened the restau rant .
Mama Col e' s rout i ne i s to shop earl y i n the morn i ng for
the fresh food that wi l l become the mi dday meal . She begi ns
cooki ng by 8: 30 a. m. Each day a separate menu i s wri tten
out by hand for each of the f i ve tabl es. Food i s served pi pi ng
hot for the l u nch crowd and throughout t he afternoon.
Mama Col e i s usual l y so busy f i xi ng t he food that she
can' t l eave t he ki t chen to greet al l of her guests. But she
sol ved the probl em by pl aci ng a si gn out front t hat reads,
"Hel l o everyone. Thanks f or stoppi ng by. Have a n i ce day.
God bl ess you , Mama Col e. "
Now that's sou l .
Directions: Mama Cole's Cate is on the corer of Business
98 (6th Street) and Harmon Avenue. From scenic U.S. 98
coming from Tyndall Air Force Base, follow signs to
Business 98. Stay on 98 to the intersection with Harmon,
just a few blocks from the fire station. Or, coming from
Panama City Beach and the U.S. Naval Reservation, follow
U.S. 98 across the Hathaway Bridge and as far as Frankford
Avenue. Tur right on Frankford, which deadends into
Beach Drive, which is Business 98.
While you're here: Take your pick of resort facilities along
the beach, or roam around the St. Andrews State Recreation
Area near Shell Island, where you'll find a restored turpen
tine still. There's also the Junior Museum of Bay County,
which includes a re-created Pioneer Village farm from the
late 1800s. Don't miss a longer drive along U. S. 98 through
Fort Walton Beach and Destin, which many claim are the
"world's most beautiful beaches. " Sport diving and surfing
are great here, too. The Miracle Stri p Amusement Park offers
30 rides and attractions that will make you think of a year
round carival midway.
22
Mama Cole's Cafe
Panama City
SMOTHERED PORK CHOPS
4-6 pork chops (al low 68 oz. per servi ng)
seasoni ng sal t (or Accent)
fl our for di ppi ng
cooki ng oi l
Season chops wit h salt , pepper, and seasoning salt.
Dip in flour and brown in cooking oil. Lower heat and
cook until pork chops are almost cooked through.
Serves: 4-6
Preparation: 3 minut es
Cooking: varies according to t hickness of chops
for GRAVY:
2 C. water
1 onion, sl iced
% C. fl our for t hickeni ng (approxi matel y)
seasoni ng sal t to taste
gravy col oring (such as Master Gravy, or your
favori te brand)
Heat water in pan and add sliced onions. In separate
bowl, mix flour and seasonings and add t o wat er with
whisk unt il mixture is desired t hickness. Add gravy
coloring. Add cooked pork chops to gravy mixt ure
and simmer for 10 minutes.
Serves: 4-6
Preparation: 5-10 minut es
Cooking: 10 minutes
"As Mama Cole makes it, the gravy is like a thick
breading that sticks to the chops. Pork choplovers,
this is it!"
23
Carrabelle
A mere hal f-hour' s dri ve from Apal achi col a, oyster capi tal of
Fl ori da, there's a very I i ttl e town famous as the home of the
t i ni est pol i ce stat i on i n the Uni ted States. The town i s Car
rabel l e, on the shores of sceni c route U. S. 98. The pol i ce sta
ti on' s headquarters are a tel ephone boot h !
One t hi ng that's not t i ny i n Carrabel l e, though, i s how
much food you' re served at J ul i a Mae's Town- I nn. For more
than 30 years, Jul i a Mae Putnal has been maki ng the most of
seafood. A l egend to the l ocal s, she's the owner, manager,
and chi ef cook at her popul ar roadsi de retreat. Each day' s
fresh catch i s brought i n by her husband, who' s the chi ef
angl er. Her cl ai m of "Servi ng the Fi nest Seafood i n the
South " i s wel l deserved, and prai se has even come from
Fl ori da's Governor, Bob Graham.
Nestl ed among tal l pi nes, J ul i a Mae' s i s i n a qui et , rust i c
sett i ng. A treasure t rove of shel l s and ot her f i ndi ngs from
25
the reg i on and i t s waters graces the wal l s. There' s nothi ng
fancy, mi nd you, but t he ambi ance i s i nstant l y i nvi t i ng.
Oysters appear on t he menu i n at l east a hal f-dozen sec
ti ons. Any wel l - i nformed shucker can tel l you that Apa
l achi col a mai ntai ns more than 1 0, 000 acres of oyster beds,
produci ng some 90 percent of the state' s ent i re crop. You can
count on J ul i a Mae' s to serve onl y the freshest.
The actual sel ecti on of seafood vari es from day to day ac
cordi ng to what Mr. Putnal bri ngs i n. You can be assured
that there wi l l al ways be more on your pl ate than you have
room for. You ' l l just have to pl an ahead so you can sampl e
J u l i a Mae's famous pi es. They' re made f resh i n her "pi e
house" and come i n many f l avors, f rom l emon meri ngue to
Key Li me. Ask about her banana puddi ng, too . . . but be
prepared for mountai nous servi ngs.
Thi s i s def i n i tel y not a fancy pl ace for a festi ve di n ner, but
you ' l l f eel ri ght at home f or a fri endl y, whol esome repast. As
one customer wrote i n the guest book, "I t sure was great,
J u l i a Mae. I ' l l be back Apal achi col a! "
You' l l say the same t hi ng, too.
Directions: Julia Mae's Town-Inn is directly on U. S. 98 in
Carrabelle, on the south side of the road. The town is on the
Gulf of Mexico, about 50 miles south of Tallahassee.
While you're here: Besides its reputation for commercial
fishing and oystering, Apalachicola has a history of being
the third largest cotton-shipping port on the Gulf of Mexico
during the 1830s. In that same period, Dr. John Gorrie in
vented the first mechanical ice machine, a predecessor of
refrigeration and air-conditioning. The Gorrie State Museum
recalls the life of that era. If you're in town early in November,
don't miss the Florida Seafood Festival, complete with fresh
fish, a parade, arts and crafts, crab races, and oyster shucking
contests.
26
OYSTR ST
Julia Mae's Town-Inn
Carrabelle
1 2 oysters, shucked and l i quor* reserved
1 C. mi l k
sal t and pepper t o taste
1 t. butter
Place oysters in pot with liquor and cook until they
shrink slightly. Add milk, butter, and seasonings and
heat just until hot so that stew doesn't curdle. Serve
with crackers.
Serves: 1
Preparation: allow 15 minutes shucking time per
serving
Cooking: about 10 minutes
"This is a mild oyster stew. You may want to add
Tabasco and/or Worcestershire sauce at the table. "
Liquor, that's the water inside the oyster.
27
JUlia Mae's Town-Inn
Carrabelle
JULIA MAE'S CHOCOlTE PI E
1 qt. chocol ate mi l k
% l b. butter, mel ted
3 C. sugar
4 eggs, separated
5 T. cornstarch
water to di ssolve cornstarch
2 T. vani l l a
2 9" baked pi e shel l s
% C. sugar (for meri ngue)
pi nch of cream of tartar
Combine milk, butter and 3 C. of sugar and bring to a
boil. Dissolve cornstarch in water and beat in with
egg yolks. Add vanilla to cornstarch and egg mixture.
Then add to milk mixture. Beat until thick. Cool. Pour
into pie shells. To make meringue: beat egg whites
with a pinch of cream of tartar and % cup of sugar.
Continue beating until stiff. Heat in 400 of. oven until
brown. Cool for 1 hour at room temperature before
refrigerating.
Serves: 6 per pie
Preparation: 1 5 minutes plus 1 hour to cool
Cooking: 5-8 minutes
"For an even more chocolate flavor, add
1-2 tablespoons of chocolate syrup. Either way,
this is a delicious pie for chocoholics.' "
28
.
Wakulla Springs
Lodge
Wakulla Springs
I n recent years di ni ng i n Tal l ahassee has become charac
teri zed by a number of very f i ne restaurants and chai n estab
l i shments. There' s l i ttl e l eft i n the i ndependent mi ddl e. But
l ess than a hal f-hour' s ri de south of town i s a retreat f rom the
ci ty' s three major i ndustri es-state government, Fl ori da State
Uni versi ty, and l obbyi ng. The communi ty of Wakul l a Spri ngs i s
a pl ace where the country' s pri sti ne nat ural hi story seems
sacred.
In a tranqu i l sett i ng of vi rgi n forest, Waku l l a Spri ngs
vi si tors can ponder the constant f l ow of crystal cl ear water
from the spri ngs, formed f rom an underground ri ver basi n
that pumps more than 600,000 gal l ons of water a mi nute. The
spri ng name comes from a Creek I ndi an word for "mysteri es
of strange water. " I n prehi stori c t i mes, ani mal s were trapped
i n caves that are now covered wi th water. Fossi l s of Masto
don bones and human cl ans have been found i n the area.
29
Guests at t he Lodge can enj oy the many tal ent s of the l ate
Ed Bal l , f i nanci er and entrepreneur. The 4, OOO-acre Edward
Bal l Wi l dl i fe Sanctuary i s a nat ural l andmark regi stered wi t h
the Depart ment of the I nteri or. The Waku l l a Spri ngs Lodge
i tsel f i s an exqui si tel y desi gned pi ece of workmanshi p.
Ori gi nal l y const ructed as Bal l ' s personal retreat, i t has
nonet hel ess al ways been open to the publ i c. The cei l i ng i n
the l obby i s pai nted wi t h I ndi an and Span i sh themes to com
memorate t he hi story of the si te. Even t hough a sense of en
dur i ng el egance pervades the di ni ng room, i t i sn't necessary
for guests to dress formal l y. You' re expected to strol l and
revel i n the outdoors, wi t h i nformal att i re appropri ate at
meal t i me.
Chef Gernard Gowdy has appl i ed the graci ousness of
Southern hospi tal i ty to the menu, and the sett i ng i s remi ni s
cent of antebel l um days. After the expected fri ed chi cken,
cornbread and gri ts, sampl e the Lodge' s speci al t i es-Navy
Bean Sou p, Shri mp Fl ori di an (jumbo shr i mp wrapped i n
bacon and served wi t h Whol e Broi l ed Tomatoes), Stuffed
Corni sh Hen, or tempt i ng l emon and pecan pi es. You' l l
noti ce a di fference i n the f l avor of the coffee, att ri buted to
the pure spri ng water so abu ndant here.
From the crystal water gobl ets and seasoni ng contai ners
to the f ul l -servi ce pl ace sett i ngs, you' l l f i nd al l of the f i ni shi ng
touches common at far more expensi ve restaurants.
After di ni ng, wander over to the gi ft shop wi th i ts 60-foot
l ong marbl e soda fountai n , or retu rn to t he Wi l dl i fe Sanc
t uary. The rest f ul envi ronment i s a t reat. Enj oy.
Directions: Wakulla Springs Lodge is at the junction of SR
61 and SR 267. From Tallahassee, take U. S. 319 South to SR
61 South, turing east at SR 267. The entrance to the lodge
is on the right.
While you're here: The Jungl e Boat Tours and the Gl ass
bottom Boat Tours offer marine insights you'll find practically
nowhere else. Part of the show is the singing-storytelling
recitation of the tour boat guides. It will remind you of the
vocal impressions of spirituals and the blues. Watch for the
legendary Henry, the PoleVaul ti ng Fish while you take in
some of the 154 species of birds that have been sighted here
along with all manner of wildlife.
U
Wakulla Springs Lodge
Wakulla Springs
GRILLED FROG LEGS
1 l b. fresh frog l egs
mi l k, water, or beer for soaki ng l egs
3 eggs
1 qt. mi l k
sal t and granul ated garl i c to taste
butter
l emon wedges and fresh parsl ey, chopped,
to garni sh
Soak frog l egs i n mi l k, water, or beer for at l east
2 hours. Season to taste wi t h sal t and g ranu l ated
garl i c. Mi x together eggs and mi l k and di p frog l egs
i n mi xt ure. Rol l i n f l our. Pl ace on buttered gri l l or
gri ddl e. Cook unt i l brown on each si de, about
10 mi nutes, t urni ng once or twi ce usi ng two large
spatul as. Garni sh wi t h l emon and chopped parsl ey.
Serves: 2
Preparat i on: 5 mi nutes pl us 2 hours for soaki ng
"Frog legs are all lean meat with no fatty tissue so
they're a good lowca/orie dish. Chef Gowdy's trick is
to cover the legs with a pie tin while they're cooking
so they'll come out moist. Try them yourself and
you'll see why people rave about them!"
3 1
Wakulla Springs
SHRI MP FLORIDIAN
1 l b. medi um shri mp (21 25 count), shel led and
devei ned
about 8 strips of bacon, cut i nto 3 pieces each
(1 sl i ce bacon per 3 shri mp)
papri ka
softened butter
toothpi cks
Wrap each shri mp i n bacon and fasten wi t h a
toot hpi ck. Spri nkl e l i ght l y wi t h papri ka and dot wi t h a
l i ttl e butter. Broi l i n pan wi t h a smal l amount of
water to prevent st i cki ng. Turn once when bacon
begi n s to cri sp. When cooked on both si des,
about 5 mi n utes, remove toot hpi cks and serve wi th
hushpuppi es (see page 1 88) and whol e broi l ed
tomatoes, bel ow.
WHOLE BROI LED TOMATOES
one tomato per servi ng
bread crumbs
butter
Parmesan cheese
Remove stem from tomatoes and cut out pul p about
a t hi rd of t he way i n . Fi l l wi t h bread cr umbs and
season i ngs to taste. Spri nkl e wi t h Parmesan cheese
and dot wi th butter. Pl ace i n a pan wi th a l i t t l e water
to prevent st i cki ng. Bake 1 5-20 mi n utes at 350 OF.
32
Wakulla Springs
Arrange shr i mp around tomato. Serve garn i shed wi t h
l emon wedge and parsl ey i f desi red .
Serves: 3
Preparat i on: shri mp-5-1 0 mi n utes;
tomatoes-5 mi nutes
Cooki ng: shr i mp-5- 1 0 mi n utes;
tomatoes-1 5-20 mi n utes
liThe tomatoes can be put under the broiler after
baking just long enough to brown the cheese. "
33
J
L
&
<
d
O
d
I
&
0
U
L
Parson
'
s
Mavpor
Parson' s may best be descri bed as a restaurant- museum.
On i t s wal l s are mounted dozens of f i sh caught i n l ocal
waters-bu l l dol phi n, great whi te shark, yel l owfi n t una, red
bass, bl ue marl i n, sai l f i sh, snook, cownose ray, bul l dozer, and
bl ack grouper, to name onl y a few. A l i ght i n the center of the
di ni ng room i s made from four hammerhead sharks. Di spl ay
cases of shel l s are ni cel y arranged near the entrance. Groups
of school chi l dren often come on f i el d tri ps, and i t' s common
to see browsers taki ng pi ct ures.
But the fi sh col l ecti on i sn' t al l Parson' s i s known for.
Fri endl y servi ce and attenti on to each order are standard at
t hi s l ocal i nst i t ut i on. As you may guess, seafood i s the
speci al ty, everyt hi ng from oysters and devi l ed crab to red
bass and l obster. Snapper, t rout, and f l ounder are the most
popu l ar d i shes. The fresh seafood i s brought i n to be cl eaned,
f i l l eted, and prepared on si te.
Order your choi ce of fi sh ei t her broi l ed or fri ed. Each di sh
i s prepared i ndi vi dual l y. I f you prefer to have a di sh broi l ed,
for exampl e, but i t doesn't appear that way on the menu, j ust
ask. And do the same i f you prefer your meal cooked wi thout
sal t .
35
I n addi ti on to servi ng fresh seafood, Parson' s makes i ts
own Cheddar cheese di p, del i ci ousl y fl avored wi t h wi ne, a
touch of garl i c, and several "secret" i ngredi ents. The restau
rant al so makes its own thousand i sl and and bl eu cheese
sal ad dressi ngs.
Many combi nati on di nners are offered and are favori tes
among the l ocal s. The most l avi sh combi nat i on i s the
Mayor' s Speci al , ori ginal l y created when Jacksonvi l l e Mayor
Hans Tanzl er hosted a di nner for other l ocal di gni tari es . . The
speci al i ncl udes shr i mp cocktai l , oyster cocktai l , more
shri mp, more oysters, scal l ops, devil ed crab, ki ng crab, a
hal f Fl ori da stuffed l obster, h ushpu ppies, potato and sal ad.
You' l l not l eave hungry.
Several mi l i tary bases are a maj or part of Jacksonvi l l e's
economy, and their personnel are frequent visi tors at
Parson' s. The Mayport Naval Base i s cl ose by, and the res
taurant draws many guests from Cecil Fi el d and the Jackson
vi l l e Naval Base, both across the St. Joh ns Ri ver on the
mai nl and. Cel ebri ti es performi ng at the nearby Al hambra
Supper Cl ub in Mayport are somet i mes seen at Parson's, and
movi e actor George Hami l ton became a "regul ar" whi l e he
was i n town.
Much of the restaurant' s success can be attri buted to the
owner's dedi cati on. For Aubrey Parson, who purchased i t i n
1 965, the restaurant i s l i teral l y hi s l i fe. He' s there dail y to do
the cooki ng, year-round except for Thanksgi vi ng and Chri st
mas. Hi s three sons manage the di ni ng room on weekends
and hel p wi th prepari ng the fi ne food.
It' s certai nl y worth the ri de for this f i sh story!
Directions: Parson's is at 4570 Ocean Street. From Jackson
ville Beach, follow U. S. A 1A north about six miles, towards
the St. Johns River Ferry. About a half-mile before the ferry
boarding area you will find the restaurant, on the north side
of the street.
While You're Here: The Fort Carol i ne Nati onal Monument is
a reconstruction of the fort from which French adventurers
attempted to establish a foothold in the New World in 1564.
The Cum mer Gal l ery of Art, in town, includes a wide span of
European and American art, as well as Japanese Netsuke.
The Jacksonvi l l e Zoo contains more than 700 species of
animals, birds, and reptiles, and also features a miniature
railroad ride.
36
DREM BOAT
Parson's
Mayport
3-4 oz. bl ue crab or ki ng crab, cooked and pi cked
over for shel l s and cart i l age
3-4 oz. mushrooms, sl i ced (fresh or canned)
1 0-1 2 shri mp (30 count), boi l ed, shel l ed, and
devei ned
dabs of butter
wi l d ri ce, cooked (opti onal )
Pl ace crab meat i n a l ayer on bottom of casserol e
baki ng di sh. Add l ayer of mushrooms. Add l ayer of
shri mp. Spread wi th dabs of butter and heat i n oven ,
about 5 t o 1 0 mi n utes at 300 0 t o 350 O F. I f you wi sh,
add wi l d ri ce after t he shri mp and t hen spread wi t h
butter.
Serves: 1
Preparat i on: 5 mi n utes pl us precooki ng t i me for
crab and shri mp
Cooki ng: 2-3 mi n utes i n mi crowave; 5-1 0 mi n utes
i n convent i onal oven
"Quantities may be adjusted according to appetite! A
simple but tasty dish. "
3 7
Parson's
Mayport
SEFOOD AU GRTI N
3-4 oz. red snapper (fi l l et), cooked
1 0- 1 2 shri mp (30 count), boi l ed, shel l ed, and
devei ned
3-4 oz. bl ue crab or ki ng crab, cooked and pi cked
over for shel l s and carti l age
butter or margarine
enough thick whi te sauce to cover (your
favori te reci pe)
2
-3 oz. cheddar cheese, sl iced or i n stri ps
paprika
Pl ace red snapper i n one end of obl ong casserol e
di sh. Pl ace shri mp i n mi ddl e and crab meat on other
end. Spread wi th dabs of butter. For Au Grat i n
Sauce, f i rst spread t hi ck wh i te sauce over t op of
seafood. Then add l ayer of Cheddar cheese. Spr i nkl e
wi th papri ka. Heat unt i l warmed t hrough, about 5 t o
1 0 mi n utes at 300 0 to 350 F.
Serves: 1
Preparat i on: 5-1 0 mi nutes pl us pre-cooki ng for
seafood and whi t e sauce
Cooki ng: 5- 1 0 mi nutes
"A seafood medley designed to make your taste
buds sing!"
ob
Apal achi col a Harbor Day Fest i val , Frankl i n County, Fl ori da, 1 4 ( Fl ori da State Archi ves)
S. W. Cowboy's, St. Augusti ne, Fl ori da
S.'. Cowboy
'
s
St. Augusine
Perhaps the ol dest seafood restau rant on St . Augusti ne
Beach, S. W. Cowboy' s was founded i n 1 963. I t' s al ways busy
despi te i ts out-of-the-way l ocat i on, and wi t h good reason.
Servi ngs are more than generous, l ots of care goes i nto the
preparat i on, and servi ce i s al ways wi t h a smi l e, no matter
how crowded the restaurant i s.
Bi l l Whi te "and company" bought the restaurant from t he
ori gi nal owner, whose i ni ti al s were S. W. and whose n i ckname
was "Cowboy. " The "and company" i s fi ve other partners, al l
of whom have been cl ose fri ends for about 20 years. They
searched for a busi ness they coul d manage together and now
thei r fami l i es are the staff.
These fri ends have done everyt hi ng t hemsel ves, from
renovat i ng the bui l di ng to wri t i ng out t he menus on poster
board mounted i n i nverted, heart-shaped st raw fans. They' ve
added a beaut i f ul wood deck i n the garden pat i o, a l i ttl e fan
tasy caf
e
area where you can si p a dr i nk whi l e you wai t for
di nner. Germani ums abound, and the twi n kl y l i ghts strung
throughout the t rees wi l l make you t hi nk i t' s Chri st mas. I n
si de, t he macram
e
canopi es hand- crafted by t he f ri ends sec
ti on off some of the booths for pri vacy, provi di ng a naut i cal ,
East I ndi es f l avor.
4 1
The l i nes that start to form an hour before Cowboy's opens
attest to the restaurant's popul ari ty, especi al l y among l ocal s
and touri sts who are wi se enough to ask where the l ocal s eat.
Be prepared to wai t . . . but then, the garden makes i t a
pl easure.
Seafood i s the speci al ty, both fri ed and broi l ed. It's
al ways fresh as i t's al l caught l ocal l y. The oysters come
served wi t h a pai r of gl oves and a kni fe for you to shuck
t hem yoursel f . They' re pi l ed up i n a baki ng t i n that's so enor
mous you're l i kel y to offer some to the next tabl e and f i nd
yoursel f stri ki ng up a conversat i on as a resu l t. "Quicki es, "
as t hey're cal l ed on t he men u, are served wi t hout t he extras
that accompany the regu l ar di nners. They're popul ar wi th
those who have smal l er appeti tes, but you real l y shoul d
l eave room f or dessert ei ther way. The homemade pi es are
del i ci ous. I t's a j oy to di scover how easy these di shes are to
prepare. One of the part ners remarked that he hesi tates to
gi ve out the reci pes because no one wi l l bel i eve how si mpl e
they are!
Directions: S. W Cowboy's is on Dondanville Road. From
U.S. 1 North or South, take King Street (A 1 A South) to Anasta
sia Island. Stay on A 1 A South about eight miles from down
town St. Augustine, a half mile south of the Holiday Inn.
Signs at Dondanville Road, on the west side of the street,
direct you to the restaurant.
While you're here: Particularly if you're visiting during the
summer you're in luck. A few miles north of Cowboy's on A 1A
is the St. Augusti ne Amphi theatre, where the state play, the
Cross and the Sword, is performed. It's a colorful musical
pageant that re-enacts St. Augustine's founding in 1565 and
was written by Pulitzer Prize-winning dramatist Paul Green.
Marineland of Florida, with performing porpoises and a
chance to hand-feed underwater creatures, is approximately
10 miles south of Cowboy's on A 1A.
42
S. W. Cowboy's
St. Augustine
COWBOY'S SPECIAL SHRI MP
(Al l ow 1 hour to mari nate ahead)
1 pt. Kraft Catal i na Dressi ng
% t . cel ery seed (opti onal )
1 C. l emon j ui ce
1 t. l i qui d smoke
1 T. sal t
3 cl oves fresh garl i c, chopped
1 l b. medi um shri mp, peel ed, devei ned, spl i t, wi th
tai l s l eft on
rice, cooked
Mi x al l i ngredi ents together, except shri mp, to make
dressi ng. Mari nate shri mp i n t hi s mi xt ure for an hour.
Broi l shri mp unt i l tai l s stand up, about 3 mi nutes.
Serve over ri ce.
Serves: 2-4
Preparat i on: 20 mi nutes pl us 1 hour to mari nate
"You'll sit up and take notice of thi s sauce. Add
parsley for a garnish. "
43
S. A Cowboy's
St. Augustine
COWBOY'S BROILED SNAPPER
1 T. l emon j uice
8 oz. red snapper fi l l et
1 -2 T. butter or margari ne, mel ted
papri ka
tartar sauce
l emons, sl iced
Pour l emon j u i ce and mel ted butter over f i sh. Broi l
f or a few mi n utes on each si de u nt i l t ender and f l aky.
Spri nkl e wi th papri ka and broi l 5 more seconds.
Serve wi t h tartar sauce and sl i ced l emons.
Serves: 1
Cooki ng: 6- 1 0 mi n utes
"Simplicity's the secret, and the sauce complements
the delicate flavor of the snapper. "
S.W. Cowboy's
St. Augustine
COWBOY'S PINEPPLE PIE
1 1 6oz. tub (1 l b. ) Cool Whi p
1 1 4oz. can condensed mi l k
1 20oz. can crushed pi neappl e
% C. pecans, chopped
2 T. l emon j uice
2 9-i nch graham cracker pi e crusts
Drai n pi neappl e. Mi x i ngredi ent s and f i l l pi e shel l s.
Ch i l l and serve.
Yi el ds: 2 pi es
Preparat i on: 5-1 0 mi nutes pl us t i me to chi l l
"We filled one pie crust and froze the remaining
mixture to use as an extra dessert. A delicious and
surprising taste treat!"
45
O
'
Steen
'
s
St. Augusine
I t' s been sai d t hat if good shri mp are to be had i n St.
August i ne, t hen O' Steen' s wi l l have them. Back when t he
Sal vadore brothers d i scovered that n i ght t rawl i ng wou l d
yi el d t he sweet, j umbo pi nk vari ety now cal l ed St. August i ne
shri mp, they pract i cal l y changed t he i ndust ry overni ght .
Compet i t i on f or dock space became extremel y cut t hroat for
a t i me, as shr i mpers i n the north around Jacksonvi l l e and i n
the south around Key West al so devel oped n i ght t rawl i ng
techni ques.
The restaurant' s ori gi nal owner, Bob O' Steen, had been a
rai l road man and had gone on stri ke wi th the Fl ori da East
Coast Rai l way when weal thy fi nanci er Ed Bal l wou l dn't gi ve
the workers a rai se. Bob' s fol ks had operated a restaurant dur
i ng Worl d War I I , and he had peddl ed crab cakes on the street
duri ng the Depressi on. So, armed wi th reci pes from hi s
mother, he went i nto busi ness for hi msel f.
Meanwhi l e, Joanna, one of the daughters i n the Sal vadore
fami l y, marri ed Lonni e Po mar, the present owner. Lonni e
had started as a bus boy at O' Steen' s when he was j ust a l ad
and, over the years, worked hi msel f al l the way to the top.
46
Thi s modest busi ness doesn' t advert i se i n any touri st
ori ented publ i cat i ons yet nevert hel ess serves a f ul l house at
every meal . As a test i moni al to the owner' s pl edge to pro
vi de good food at good val ue, l ocal s j est that when the pr i me
l endi ng rate goes up a poi nt , the l i ne out si de get s four feet
l onger. Act ual l y, the l i ne outsi de i s usual l y l ong. Reserva
t i ons are taken at the wi ndow when you arri ve. Or, if you
don' t want to f i ght t he crowds, you can cal l i n a carry-out
order ahead of t i me.
The i nteri or i s cheery wi t h a den- l i ke feel i ng and f i repl ace.
Pai nt i ngs by l ocal art i sts of beach scenes and pel i cans
decorate the wal l s. There are dai l y speci al s at super-l ow
pri ces and speci al pri ces for chi l dren' s servi ngs. I ngredi ents
are fresh, and f rom hi s years of experi ence, Lon n i e can i n
stant l y t el l whether t he catch i s recent. Frequent l y changi ng
t he cooki ng oi l i s t he secret t o t he good col or on t he shr i mp.
The breadi ng i s l i ght , a n i ce change from t he "heavy"
shri mp served el sewhere.
There' s a choi ce of cocktai l sauces for you r seafood: the
mi l d sauce, whi ch i s pi nk as a resul t of addi ng mayonnai se,
or the hot sauce. When you r wai t ress tel l s you i t' s hot, don' t
forget what she says . . . hot i s hot ! But hot sauce and dat i l
peppers (a regi onal favori te fou nd onl y i n St . George County)
go hand i n hand i n St. August i ne, and t hi s i s one of the best
pl aces to enj oy t hem.
Directions: O'Steen's i s located at 205 Anastasia Boule
vard. From U.S. 1 North or South, tur east on King Street
(A 1 A South), through downtown and across the Bridge of
Lions. The road is now called Anastasia Boulevard, which you
simply follow to the restaurant, on the south side of the street.
The reseNations and take-out window is on the side of the
restaurant.
While you're here: After you've toured historic St. Augustine,
enjoy the miles of wide, hard-packed sand beaches on Ana
stasia Island and at the Anastasia State Park, which offers a
variety of outdoor recreation. Coquina quarries on the island
have provided shellrock for construction since 1600; many
such structures still stand in the restored area. This is an
ideal destination for walkers and bicyclists!
47
Q'Steen's
St. Augustine
DEILED CRBS
1 l b. bl ue crab cl aw meat
1 smal l oni on, di ced
1 smal l bel l pepper, di ced
2 stalks cel ery, diced
4 regul ar hamburger rol l s, ground i nto crumbs
% t. salt
1 t. pepper
1 t. t hyme
2 large dat i l peppers g ground (or any other hot
pepper)
oi l for fryi ng
Pi ck over crab caref u l l y to remove any shel l or
cart i l age. Set asi de. Combi ne al l other i ngredi ents
except oi l . Gentl y fol d i n crab meat. Pat i nto cakes
about 2% i nches i n d i ameter. Heat oi l to 400 . and
caref ul l y sl i p cakes i n. Deep fry for t hree or f our
mi n utes. Drai n and serve i mmedi atel y.
Yi el ds: 12 pat t i es, about 2% i nches i n di ameter
Preparat i on: 1 0- 1 5 mi n utes
Cooki ng: 3-4 mi nutes per batch
"These spicy crab cakes are perfect served with a
red cocktail sauce or chili sauce. You can double the
recipe for a crowd or make smaller cakes for finger
hors d'oeuvres. "
See Appendi x: Fl ori da Foods ( Mi norcan Speci al ti es).
48
SUPER SHRIMP SAUCE
1 C. mayonnai se
% C. catsup
1 oz. Worcestershi re
1 oz. horseradi sh
% oz. A. B. hot sauce
Mi x thoroughl y and serve.
Yi el ds: 2 cups
Q'Steen 's
St. Augustine
"This is light in color because of the mayonnaise,
but don't be deceived-it 's VERY tangy!"
NOTES
49
Vilano Sea
f
ood Shack
St. Augustine
The Vi l ano Seafood Shack i s no except i on to the
preval ent use of dat i l peppers i n reci pes at St. August i ne' s
restaurants. The emphasi s i s on seafood, and what the dat i l
pepper does for t he Shack' s cl am chowder, crab meat stuffed
mushrooms, and crab meat stuff i ng wi l l t ur n f i rst-t i mers i nt o
t r ue bel i evers. The combi nat i on of the season i ngs al ong
wi t h the freshest of fresh shel l fi sh i s the "secret . "
The Shack' s owners, Nathan and Cynthi a Vestal , have taken
thei r cottage-l i ke bui l di ng, that was ori gi nal l y constructed as a
service stati on i n the 1 920s, and converted it i nto an i nformal
eatery. I ts l ocati on i s a qui et beach setti ng, great for enjoyi ng
cool ocean breezes. The rel ati vel y untouched sereni ty of
Vi l ano Beach makes the Seafood Shack' s l ocati on a pri ze that
one doesn' t want to see changed. Pi cni c tabl es and beamed
cei l i ngs refl ect the casual atmosphere of the communi ty.
Ci ndy Vestal has worked cl osel y wi th outstandi ng chefs
at such wel l -known resorts as I nni sbrook, i n Tarpon Spri ngs.
Nathan' s experti se comes from years of experi ence wi t h
French chefs, and he personal l y chooses t he best f i sh from
the docks between Mayport ( near Jacksonvi l l e) and Ponce
50
I n l et (by Daytona Beach) . Hi s speci al ty i s saut
e
i ng and broi l
i ng, al though l i ght l y battered, deep- fri ed seafood i s al so
avai l abl e. You ' l l noti ce the di fference i n taste t hat t r ul y fresh
seafood has after you ' ve sampl ed what some restaurants of
fer and cal l fresh.
One of t he most pl easant aspects of a meal at the Vi l ano
Seafood Shack i s the personal attent i on from Ci ndy and
Nathan. They enj oy chatt i ng wi t h guests, maki ng t hem feel
ri ght at home. On Sundays i t ' s typi cal for fami l i es to stay on
t he beach unt i l mi d-afternoon ; t hen they ambl e i nto t he
Shack f or champagne and del i ci ous food. There' s a speci al
chi l dren' s men u, too.
Seasonal i tems are offered when they are avai l abl e, i n
cl udi ng Cedar Key stone crab cl aws, bl ue crab, and l ocal
cl ams t hat are steamed. I f you don' t see a part i cu l ar ki nd of
preparat i on you l i ke on the men u, j ust ask. I f al l the i ngre
di ents are on hand, you can have your di sh f i xed any way you
l i ke.
And whi l e you' re di n i ng, take t i me to l ook at the pai nt i ngs
and photographs by l ocal si ngers Bob and Jol ene Patterson,
and other l ocal art i sts. As you ' l l read on t he menu, these
seascapes are a remi nder to us to "preserve what manki nd
di d not create. "
Directions: The Vilano Seafood Shack i s at 111 Vilano Road.
From U. S. 1 North or South, take A 1A North to Vilano Beach,
a half mile east of the Vilano Beach Bridge. Where A 1A
makes a gO-degree tur north, look for the Seafood Shack,
which is right at the corer.
While you're here: Do see the old town of St. Augustine. It's
the oldest permanent settlement in the United States (Pen
sacola's the oldest ori gi nal settlement, much of which has
been restored so authentically that no cars are allowed on
certain streets. After you've visited San Agusti n Antiguo with
its colonial period shops and craft demonstrations, see the
huge Casti l l o de San Marcos fortress and the jail. Don 't miss
the orate buildings created by Henry Flagler, the wealthy
developer of the late 1800s: the Lightner Museum and Fl agler
Col lege are both housed in buildings that used to be ex
travagant hotels Flagler conceived. They're monumental
classics of American Renaissance architectural styles.
5 1
Vi/ano Seafood Shack
St. Augustine
TE SHACK'S SHRIMP AND SCALLOP SA
U
T oz. butter
% smal l oni on, fi nel y chopped
1 cl ove garl i c, fi nel y chopped
8-1 0 scal l ops
approxi matel y 6 mushrooms, sl i ced
8 shri mp, peel ed, devei ned, and butterfl ied
1 oz. Tamari sauce
j uice of % l emon
dash whi te pepper
chopped parsley
brown rice, cooked
Saut
e
f i rst f our i ngredi ents unt i l scal l ops are part i al l y
done. Add shri mp, Tamari sauce, l emon j ui ce and
pepper. Saut
e
a l i tt l e l onger unt i l shri mp are done.
Spri nkl e chopped parsl ey over top for col or. Serve
over brown ri ce.
Serves: 2
Cooki ng: 5-7 mi nutes
UFor variation, add fresh cauliflower or broccoli
flowerettes before adding shrimp. "
Avai l abl e in heal th food stores
52
Vi/ano Seafood Shack

St. Augustine
BROCCOLI CREPES
1 2 cr
e
pes
2 heads broccol i
4 T. butter
3 T. fl our
2 C. mi l k
3 cl oves garl i c, mi nced
6 oz. Swi ss cheese, shredded
Make your favori te reCi pe for 1 2 cr
e
pes and set
asi de. Steam fresh broccol i and chop f l owerettes
wi th some of the stems. Saut
e
oni ons i n butter. Add
f l our and st i r for a mi nute or two. Sl owl y add mi l k,
st i rri ng constantl y. When mi xt ure i s t hi ck, add
broccol i , garl i c, sal t and pepper. Cook approxi mat el y
5 mi nutes, st i rr i ng constant l y. Rol l cr
e
pes wi t h f i l l i ng.
Pl ace i n a buttered, ovenproof di sh or pan. Spri nkl e
wi t h Swi ss cheese. Bake f or about 5 mi n ut es at
350 O F. or j ust l ong enough to warm t hroughout and
to mel t cheese.
Serves: 4-6
Preparat i on: 1 5 mi nutes (pl us t i me to make cr
e
pes)
Cooki ng: 1 5 mi n utes
"This is a delicately seasoned dish. What a way to
present broccoli! You can make it ahead, refrigerate,
and pop in the oven just before serving. Your guests
will rave!"
' See g l ossary
0
Rober
'
s Dock
Lke Ci
It woul d be nat ural to expect towns l ocated near the i n
tersect i on of two maj or i nterstate hi ghways t o be bust l i ng
metropol i ses or suburbs of some l arge ci ti es. I nstead, Lake
Ci ty and the other communi ti es near the j unct i on of 1 -75 and
1 - 1 0 are genteel remi nders of an "undi scovered" Fl ori da.
They' re the heart of Suwannee Ri ver Country, popul ari zed i n
t he songs of Stephen Foster.
Ami d peaceful ri vers where there i s ampl e opportun i ty for
qui et f i shi ng, t here i s sti l l growt h. There are smal l town com
muni ty and recreat i onal faci l i t i es, Jaycees act i vi t i es, and a
surpri si ngl y busy l i ttl e ai rport.
Just across f rom the ai rport i s one of the hal l marks of the
regi on' s home-styl e restaurants, Robert' s Dock. Owners
Robert and Emmi e Chasteen have brought t hei r whol e fami l y
i nto t he act. Many of t he reci pes came from Robert' s mother,
whose pi neappl e coconut cake was a hi t i n a l ocal baki ng
contest . Al l of t he sal ad dressi ngs are homemade, too. 80th
Robert's mother and grandmother had al ways been good
cooks, and Robert had l ong dreamed of owni ng a restaurant
whi l e he was an i nteri or decorator. When the chance to pur-
54
chase what used to be Dave' s Oyster Bar came al ong, Robert
j umped and attracti vel y remodel ed the bu i l di ng. Today North
Florida Living cal l s hi s restau rant one of the "top 1 0" i n that
part of the state.
A nati ve of Lake Ci ty, Robert is a nat ural for servi ng good
Southern cooki ng, especi al l y after l i vi ng i n the country al l hi s
l i fe. Hi s ori gi nal i dea was t o have a steak house. But he
observed that more peopl e here seem to prefer seafood when
they di ne out because they t hi nk i t can be t i me-consumi ng to
prepare at home. Hence, the menu ref l ects both Southern
di shes and seafood, al l artful l y prepared. Hi s secret for
vegetabl es, he says, i s to add a speck of sugar i n each reci pe
to cut down the aci d f l avor.
Robert' s young daughter i s onl y one of the faces around
t hi s restaurant wel l -known to regul ars. CBS sportscaster and
Super Bowl announcer Pat Summeral l cal l s Lake Ci ty home
and i s a frequent patron. The restaurant i s a favori te wi th
scuba di vers expl ori ng the nearby I chetucknee and other
fresh-water spri ngs.
The vote f or best di sh on the menu i s Robert' s Seafood
Casserol e, served at di nner onl y, because it takes so l ong to
prepare. It featu res shri mp, crab meat, and scal l ops i n a t hi ck,
creamy base . . . del i ci ous!
Directions: From /- 75 take U.S. 90 east through town, about
three miles out. Robert's Dock is on the north side of the
road, across from the airport. Or, from 1- 10, take either U. S. 41
or 441 into town, and tur east on U.S. 90, as above.
While you're here: There's plenty to do in the Suwannee
River Valley. There 's the Stephen Foster Memorial at White
Springs, tubing down the clear Ichetucknee River, and the
Battle of Ol ustee Festival each February. This festival
presents a re-enactment of the largest Civil War battle fought
on Florida soil, one of the South's largest victories. Florida
Bicycle Tours originate here and head through the best of the
state's back roads and foothills. They offer guided weekend
and week-long trips, year-round, for every level of experience.
Trips include visits to country lodgings, garden clubs,
historical societies, and sometimes the homes of folk
singers, cloggers, and storytellers. Write to P.O. Drawer P,
White Springs, FL 32096, for schedule information. Tell 'em
we sent ya!
55
Robert's Dock
Lake City
ROBER'S SEFOOD CASSEROLE
% l b. cooked shri mp, peeled and devei ned
% l b. cooked crab meat, pi cked over for shel l s and
cartilage
% l b. cooked scal l ops
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1 can cream of cel ery soup
4 hardboiled eggs, di ced
1 C. di ced pi mi ento
1 C. whi te wi ne, semi sweet
2 T. Worcestershi re
1 large bel l pepper }
1 l arge oni on chopped, saut
e
ed i n butter
6 cel ery stal ks unti l oni on is t ransl ucent
Seasoned Sal t and pepper to taste
6 C. cooked rice
% C. mayonnai se
1 box Ri tz Crackers, crushed
mel ted butter
Mi x al l seafood toget her. Add sou ps, eggs, pi mi ento,
wi ne, and Worcestershi re sauce. Sti r i n sauteed oni on,
pepper, and cel ery. Add Seasoned Sal t and pepper to
taste. Add cooked ri ce. Bl end i n mayonnai se. Add
enough Ri tz Cracker crumbs to make mi xture t he
consi stency of cornbread dressi ng. Bake i n a buttered
casserol e di sh at 375 of. for 30 mi nutes or u nt i l i t
begi ns to bubbl e.
56
Robert's Dock
Lake City
Top wi t h rest of cracker crumbs. Dri zzl e wi t h mel ted
butter and cook unt i l brown.
Serves: approxi matel y 1 2
"This is a delicious casserole for a crowd; however,
you can cut the recipe in half with excellent results.
It's a specialty at Robert's Dock and can be yours,
too!"
NOTES
57
Robert's Dock
Lake City
MOM'S CHICKEN AND DUMPLI NGS
1 large fryer chi cken, cut up
2 qts. water
1 oni on, di ced
6 stal ks of cel ery, di ced
Pl ace chi cken and rest of i ngredi ents i n a l arge pot.
Add enough water to cover, about 2 quarts. Bri ng to a
boi l . Ski m wh i te resi due off top. Lower heat and boi l
gentl y unt i l tender, about 40 mi nutes. Sk i m resi due
from t i me to t i me. Remove chi cken from broth and
cool . Remove chi cken from bones and cut up i n
bi tesi ze pi eces. Taste broth for seasoni ngs and adj ust
i f necessary. Add chi cken back to brot h. Bri ng broth
to boi l and add dumpl i ngs:
DUMPLI NGS
3 C. pl ai n fl our
% t. salt
1 heaping T. Crisco or other shorteni ng
1 C. water
mi l k
Si ft f l our and sal t together. Add shorteni ng and mi x
wel l . Add water and mi x unt i l dough i s el ast i c and
smoot h. Di vi de dough and rol l on f l oured board unt i l
t hi n. Rub f l our across t op and cut i n obl ong stri ps.
Add to boi l i ng broth and boi l 5 mi nutes.
Jd
Robert's Dock
Lake City
Add boned chi cken and mi l k, if necessary, to bri ng i t
t o desi red consi stency. Mi xt ure wi l l t hi cken as i t si ts.
Serves: 4-6
Preparat i on: chi cken-1 0 mi nutes;
dumpl i ngs -1 5 mi nutes
Cooki ng: chi cken -30-45 mi nutes;
dumpl i ngs-5 mi nutes
"As you can see, dumplings come in different shapes
and sizes! This is a delicious downhome, stickto
yourribs meal in a pot. Leaving the chopped
vegetables in the broth adds extra flavor, but you can
remove them to serve on the side. You can do this
recipe in steps, cooking the chicken the day before
and making the dumplings just before you are ready
to serve. "
59
Robert's Dock
Lake City
HONE FRENCH DRESSING (SWEE AND SOUR)
% C. tomato catsup
% C. vi negar
% C. honey
dash Worcestershi re
pi nch ground cl oves
3 T. fi nel y grated oni ons
pi nch sal t
T C. sal ad oi l
Pl ace al l i ngredi ents except oi l i n a mi xi ng bowl or
food processor. Mi x toget her and beat wel l . Add oi l
sl owl y, drop by drop, beat i ng constant l y. Beat unt i l
dressi ng i s t hi ck and creamy. Store i n a covered j ar
i n refri gerator.
Yi el ds: 2 cups
"This dressing is good, not only for your tossed
salads, but it also goes wonderfully well on chicken.
Marinate the chicken in the dressing for an hour;
then bake in the marinade-tangy and tantalizing!"
60
Mama Lo
'
s
Gainesille
One of the f i rst pl aces l ocal s i nvariabl y menti on when
asked where to go in Gainesvi l l e for down-home cookin' at a
good price is Mama Lo' s. It ' s defi ni tel y an i nstituti on among
students and soul and Southern food l overs.
Mama Lo is Lori ne Al exander, whose mother and grand
mother al so fed these Gai nesvi l l e peopl e over the years.
Though the restaurant seats onl y 35, Mama Lo serves 200 or
more guests at every meal . Somehow, she manages to
organi ze the preparation of about 1 5 entrees, 1 5 or 20
vegetabl es, si de di shes, and homemade pies and cakes-al l
in a kitchen no l arger than a typical home ki tchen.
Not onl y are the choi ces vari ed, but you' re gi ven gi gant i c
servi ngs for very l ow prices. You' l l not go away hungry after
devouring stuffed peppers, chi t l ins ( pi g' s i nsides, far more
tasty than the name sounds), smoked sausage and yams,
col l ard greens, bl ackeyed peas, and on and on.
Mama Lo deci des on each day' s sel ecti on earl y i n the
morni ng. She writes menus out in l onghand for each of the
ei ght tabl es. The rest of the day she spends cooki ng, her way
of I ife for more than 1 7 years.
6 1
Most of the students who frequent her restaurant are from
the Uni versi ty of Fl ori da. Thei r offi ci al mascot is the al l i gator,
and the regi on' s ni ckname, appropri atel y, i s "Gator Countr. "
Thi s i s because ' gators are commonl y attracted to si nkhol es,
often found i n the area and formed when l and col l apses and
f i l l s wi t h rai n-water. Between the repti l es and the si nkhol es,
the students have pl enty to poke fun at, but one t hi ng' s for
certai n-they' re avi d fans of Mama Lo' s cooki ng.
You wi l l be, too.
Directions: Mama La's is at 618 NW 6th Street. Take SR 24
(Archer Road) east from 1-75. SR 24 merges into U. S. 441 (13th
Street). Stay on 441 past the University of Florida campus (on
the left and tur east on N W 5th A venue. Then tur north on
NW 6th Street to address. Mama La's is on the west side of
the street, across from the police station.
While you're here: One of the major sinkholes that provides
insight into geologic formations is the Devi l ' s Mi l l hopper site,
just north of town on SR 232. It's popular for cave diving and
nature trail hiking. Or you can arrange for a guided ranger
walk. Eleven miles south on U.S. 441 is the 1 8, 000-acre
Paynes Prai ri e State Preserve, a fresh-water marsh with
guided walks. The Preserve was named for the Seminole
chief who fought for the property some 200 years after the
Timucuan chief Vitachuco died defending it against the
Spaniards.
62
CHICKEN AND RICE
Mama Lo's
Gainesville
2 smal l fryi ng chi ckens, cut i nto serving pi eces
. 1 % qts. water
1 bel l pepper, chopped
1 stal k cel ery (i ncl udi ng leaves), chopped
1 medi um oni on, chopped
4 cubes chicken boui l l on
2 I bs. raw rice (Uncl e Ben' s or your favorite brand)
yel low food coloring (opti onal )
Combi ne al l i ngredi ents except ri ce and food col ori ng
i n a l arge pot. Cook, covered, over medi um heat for
35 mi nutes. Add ri ce and an addi t i onal q uart of water.
Cover and si mmer another 25 mi nutes. Add food
col ori ng i f desi red and taste for seasoni ngs.
Serves: 1 0- 1 5
HThis is a simple but tasty dish. It is easy to cut the
amount of ingredients to make a familysized dish. "
63
Mama Lo's
Gainesville
STING BENS
3 1 6oz. cans stri ng beans, drained
1 qt. water
1 smal l oni on, diced
1 0 smal l whi te potatoes, diced
1 T. butter
Drai n j ui ce from cans of stri ng beans. Pl ace al l
i ngredi ents i n l arge pot and cook unt i l on i ons and
potatoes are tender, about 15 to 20 mi nutes.
Serves: 8-1 0
Preparat i on: 5-1 0 mi nutes
Cooki ng: 1 5-20 mi nutes
"A quick side dish. "
64
Mama Lo's
Gainesville
OLD-FASHIONED SWEE POTATOES
4 large sweet potatoes, cooked, peeled, and sl i ced,
or a 1 l b. can of sweet potatoes, drai ned and
sl i ced
2 C. sugar
3 C. water
1 T. vani l l a
pi nch nutmeg
% T. l emon j uice
1 T. butter
Lay out sweet potato sl i ces i n a buttered baki ng di sh
or pan. Mi x remai ni ng i ngredi ents, except butter, and
pour over potatoes. Dot wi t h butter. Pl ace i n oven and
bake for 35 mi nutes at 350 F.
Serves: 6-8
"The potatoes will have an intriguing sweet taste but
will not be candied."
65
Mama Lo's
Gainesville
HOPPI NGJOHN
1 l b. blackeyed peas
34 thick sl ices salt pork
6 C. water
1 l b. Uncl e Ben's rice
1 T. butter
pi nch sugar
Mi x bl ackeyed peas and sal t pork i n water and boi l
gentl y for 30 mi nutes. Add remai ni ng i ngredi ents and
si mmer for 35 mi nutes l onger. Add addi t i onal water as
needed, sti r often.
Serves: 6
"This is a classic and very traditional soul food dish. "
66
GARDEN SALD
Mama La's
Gainesville
1 head l ettuce, broken i nto smal l pi eces by hand
1 cucumber, t hi nl y sl i ced
% bel l pepper, thi nl y sl i ced
1 carrot, thi nl y sl iced
2 tomatoes, t hi nl y sl i ced
% stalk cel ery, chopped
Toss al l i ngredi ent s. Serve wi t h homemade dressi ng
bel ow.
MAMA LO'S HOMEMADE DRESSI NG
% C. mayonnai se
1 T. vi negar
1 T. sugar
% C. tomato catsup
% t. garl i c powder
sal t to taste
Mi x al l i ngredi ents and st i r wel l . Chi l l .
Serves: 6-8
Preparat i on: 1 0 mi n utes pl us t i me to chi l l
"This is nearly a meal in itself. The dressing is
reminiscent of a Louis dressing (for crab or shrimp
Louis salad). Serve with a hot or cold soup and
French bread or bread sticks. "
67
c
c
O
m
O
E
|
Te Primrose Inn
Gainesille
Thomas Wol fe, wri t i ng i n You Can't Go Home Again, says,
"Some t hi ngs wi l l never change. Some t hi ngs wi l l al ways be
the same. Lean down your ear upon the eart h, and l i sten. "
So i t seems wi t h The Pri mrose I nn, founded by Mrs. Byron
Wi nn, Sr., i n 1924, l ater owned by her son, Byron Wi nn, Jr. (a
Uni versi ty of Fl ori da graduate and mayor of Gai nesvi l l e i n
1963), and now owned by John McCraw. John, or Jack, as t he
regul ars cal l hi m, di dn't want t o change a good t hi ng when
he boug ht t he restaurant i n t he mi d-1970s. Chef Boston
Cobb and several others of the ori ginal staff are sti l l at t he
I nn today. The menu sti l l l i ves up to i ts reputat i on for tasty
home-styl e food at reasonabl e pri ces, and t he exteri or bl end
of sti ck styl e and stone archi tect ure i s t he same t hough the
i nteri or has been renovated and enl arged several t i mes.
Just ask "Cousi n" Thel ma Bol t i n. The whi te-haired grande
dame of the Fl ori da Fol k Festi val has been a several -t i mes-a
week customer for years and years. I t's a favori te al so wi t h
"Fl ori da's Troubadour, " Gambl e Rogers. I f you cat ch ei ther of
t hem t here, you may be treated to an earf ul of memorabl e
tal es and fol kl ore about the state!
69
Now Jack McCraw, t hough he hai l s from Al abama and t he
Uni versi ty of Tennessee, has f ound t hat many ol d Uni versi ty
of Fl ori da grads st i l l remember The Pri mrose I nn. The yeast
rol l s were a bi g hi t i n t he ol d days, and they sti l l are, to t he
t une of some 1 , 500 a day. They used to be served wi t h syrup
and honey, but then t here wou l dn' t be many of t he great
desserts sol d. "My mother used to make ' em, " says Jack.
"We sti l l punch them out of t he dough by hand. "
Dai l y speci al s and typed i nserts on t he menu offer a fu l l
range of Fl ori da and Southern home cooki ng. There's
everyt hi ng from catfi sh and mul l et to scal l oped eggpl ant,
cheese gri ts, and sal mon croquettes. And because t he
bui l di ng i tsel f was once used f or accommodat i ons as wel l
as meal s, i t st i l l has t he cozy feel i ng of home, from t he f i re
p l ace i n the l obby to the l arge, L-shaped d i n i ng area.
When Mrs. Wi nn f i rst establ i shed t he restaurant, i t was
popul ar to use names of fl owers and trees for new busi
nesses. I n t he years si nce, The Pri mrose I nn has become a
Gai nesvi l l e i nst i t ut i on.
Directions: The Primrose Inn i s at 214 West University
Avenue (SR 26). From 1-75 north or south, take the SR 26 exit
east past the university campus, all the way into downtown
to address. Or, from U. S. 44 1 north or south, turn east on
University Avenue to address.
While you're here: Gainesville's main "industry" is the
Universi ty of Fl orida, the state's oldest. It 's a challenge not
to get lost among the original and the new buildings. Don't
miss the Fl ori da State Museum, among the top 1 0 natural
history museums in the country and the top in the South.
The Uni versi ty Art Gal lery is also noteworthy. Or just drive
leisurely around some of the residential neighborhoods,
which are gracefully shaded by lush green oaks on gently
rolling terrain.
70
The Primrose Inn
Gainesville
SCALLOPED EGGPLNT
1 eggpl ant, peel ed and di ced
% sti ck margari ne or butter
% gal l on mi l k
5 eggs
% green pepper, chopped
1 t. chopped pi mi ento
1 medi um oni on, chopped
1 C. bread crumbs
1 C. crushed sal ti ne crackers
1 4-6 oz. can Parmesan cheese
grated sharp or mi l d Cheddar cheese.
Boi l eggpl ant unt i l j ust tender. Drai n and mash. Add
margari ne. Set asi de. Combi ne eggs and mi l k wi t h
t he remai ni ng i ngredi ents (except Cheddar cheese)
and mi x wel l . Pour mi xt ure i nto a buttered baki ng
di sh. Spread evenl y and spri nkl e wi t h grated Cheddar
cheese. Bake i n 350 OF. oven for 30 mi n utes or unt i l
brown on t op. I t wi l l have t he text ure of a souf f l e.
Serves: 4-6
Preparat i on: 1 5-20 mi nutes
"This goes well with broiled steak and sliced
tomatoes. "
1 !
The Primrose Inn
Gainesville
CORNBRED DRESSI NG
1 pan cornbread (your favorite reci pe), crumbl ed
% as much bread, crumbled
2 T. chi cken base or boui l l on
% smal l oni on, chopped
1 sti ck cel ery, chopped
sage, to taste
2 eggs, sl i ghtl y beaten
papri ka
Mi x cornbread and bread toget her usi ng a fork.
Combi ne chi cken base, oni on, and cel ery, and sti r
i nto bread mi xt ure. Spri nkl e l i ght l y wi th sage. St i r i n
eggs. Add mi xt ure t o a greased baki ng pan and
spread evenl y. Dot wi th margari ne or but t er and
spri nkl e wi t h papri ka. Bake 1 5-20 mi n utes i n a
350 OF. oven.
Serves: 5
"This is a winner as an accompaniment to pork or
chicken. Or, stuff your turkey with it and it will
indeed be 'gobbled'!"
72
Te Yearling
Cross Creek
The tradi t i onal f l avors of Fl ori da, as recorded by Pul i tzer
Prize-wi nni ng author Marj ori e Ki nnan Rawl i ngs, are kept al i ve
at The Yearl i ng. Al though the restaurant i s sl i ghtl y fanci er
and a l i ttl e hi gher pri ced than most of the others i n our col l ec
ti on, i ts roots are as Cracker Fl ori da as you can f i nd.
Cross Creek i s typi cal of t he ki nd of smal l town that used
to be preval ent al l over the state. Sure, there are sti l l many
f i shi ng vi l l ages and qu i et communi t i es, but we tend to forget
about them i n the sweep of "progress" al ong the coastl i ne
and i ts burgeoni ng popul ati on centers. Meanwhi l e, at The
Yearl i ng, owners Pat and Herb Herman have pl ayed host to
everyone from the l ate Mrs. Rawl i ngs' husband to l ocal s and
patrons from the f urthest corners of the state.
Back i n the 1 930s, the peri od about whi ch Mrs. Rawl i ngs
wrote so much, her nei ghbor Boss Bri ce used t o host out
doorsmen who came to hunt , f i sh, and enj oy t hei r cat ch. I t' s
much the same today wi th the Hermans. There are seven
cozy l i t t l e cabi ns where guests can stay. Mrs. Herman tel l s
about some Japanese vi si tors who came for a weekend and
became so fasci nated wi th the stori es tol d by one of the
73
teenagers who grew up around Mrs. Rawl i ngs t hat t hey
stayed t hree weeks !
The Hermans' i nt erest i n food and agri cul t ure goes back
to t hei r 27 years i n the pou l t ry busi ness i n Nort h Fl ori da.
Now ret i red from t hat endeavor, they take great pl easure i n
i ntroduci ng newcomers to nat i ve foods served i n a graci ous
envi ronment . The "Cross Creek Speci al " i s a tasty sel ect i on
of cat f i sh, frog l egs, and cooter, al l l i ght l y breaded and fri ed.
Cooter i s what the nat i ves cal l the soft-shel l ed turt l e, a
del i cacy about whi ch Mrs. Rawl i ngs was part i cul arl y en
t husi ast i c. I t' s an educat i on to read how Mrs. Rawl i ngs and
her Cross Creek nei ghbors obtai ned and prepared the i ngre
d i ents at hand i n the woods. But of course, the Hermans do
have the advantage of easi er methods of preparat i on. Adj a
cent to the restau rant , The Yearl i ng' s gi ft shop has al l of
Mrs. Rawl i ngs' books, i ncl ud i ng Cross Creek Cookery, as
wel l as other souveni rs. Many of the ori gi nal Cross Creek
reci pes read j ust l i ke short stori es.
Li fe i n these parts has been i mmortal i zed on f i l m i n t he
1 983 product i on of Cross Creek by Robert Radni tz Produc
t i ons i n Cul ver Ci ty, Cal i forn i a. Fol ks at The Yearl i ng and i n
town were t hr i l l ed to entertai n the cast and the crew duri ng
t he f i l mi ng. The Yearl i ng i s a f i ne l ocat i on both t o savor
Cracker food and to enj oy the outdoors and the Hermans.
Directions: Driving from Gainesville, take 1- 75 south to SR
20. Tur south (right) where 20 intersects with Route 325, by
the Lochloosa Wildlife Management Area. I t 's about eight
miles on 325 to The Yearling, which is on your right.
While you're here: The Marjorie Ki nnan Rawl i ngs State
Historical Site is the author's restored Cracker home. Notice
how the kitchen is set off by a breezeway. This prevents
cooking heat from raising the temperature in the rest of the
house. Cross Creek's location between Lochloosa and
Orange Lakes is great for fishing, especially for bass,
speckled perch, and bream.
74
CROSS CREEK SPECIAL
The Yearling
Cross Creek
catf i sh, cl eaned (scrape out si l ky bl ack i nsi de
from stomach wi th a spoon)
frog l egs (buy al ready ski nned and cut off feet)
cooter (buy in 1 to 3-l b. pi eces and cut i nto
port i ons l i ke chi cken)
sel f ri si ng fl our, or cornmeal for di ppi ng
mi l k
cooki ng oi l
Keep cooter or f rog l egs covered wi t h i ce cubes from
1 to 4 hours i n ref ri gerator unt i l ready to use. Th i s
t enderi zes t he meat and takes away some of t he
gamey f l avor. (I n Cross Creek Cookery Mrs. Rawl i ngs'
rec i pe suggests addi ng 2 tabl espoons l emon j ui ce or
vi negar for every pound of frog l egs. ) Si mpl y di p
l i ght l y i n f l our or cornmeal , f l uf f i ng wi t h t h e f i ngers.
Shake off the excess f l our.
For t he f rog l egs, f l uf f f i rst i n f l our, t hen di p i n mi l k,
and agai n i n f l our. The cat f i sh and cooter need to be
di pped onl y i n f l our or corn meal . Mrs. Herman
recommends deep fat f ryi ng for cat f i sh, preferabl y
di pped i n cornmeal f i rst; pan f ryi ng for cooter f l uffed
i n f l our, and deep fat f ryi ng for f rog l egs. Fry to a
ni ce gol den brown .
Serves: al l ow 6-8 oz. per servi ng
Preparat i on: 5-1 0 mi nutes pl us 1 t o 4 hours ch i l l i ng
for cooter or frog l egs; 5 mi nutes for
catf i sh (after cl ean i ng)
Cooki ng: 5-6 mi n utes f or cat f i sh or f rog l egs;
45 mi n utes for cooter
"In Cross Creek Cookery, Mrs. Rawlings suggests
adding a whole beaten egg and fine bread crumbs to
the flour. And instead of oil for frying, she used
Dora's butter, a rich, flavorful butter from a favorite
Jersey cow. "
75
O
m
0
Johnson
'
s
Cedar Key
A cent ury ago, wi th a popul ati on of 5,000, Cedar Key was
Fl ori da' s second l argest ci ty. Before the Ci vi l War there was a
boomi ng rai l road connecti on -the f i rst major one i n the
state-wi th Fernandi na Beach, on the east coast . Eberhard
Faber had begu n to devel op a sawmi l l for shi pments to hi s
New Jersey penci l factory.
But as wi th so many smal l towns of 1 9th-century Fl ori da,
boom days were fol l owed by busts. Over the years the
popul ati on dwi ndl ed to about 800. Cedar Key i s now a town
where peopl e come to sl ow down, to unwi nd. Madge John
son, a Cedar Key resi dent vi rtual l y al l her l i fe, wi l l tel l you
there' s not much to do except go fi shi ng, cl ammi ng or crab
bi ng, hunt i ng, or operate a restaurant.
I ndeed, operat i ng her own restaurant i s how she and her
si ster, Catheryn Gautreau, spend thei r t i me. They al so have
a f i sh market , downstai rs from the restaurant. Other fami l y
members hel p out i n both busi nesses.
"Thi s l i t t l e restaurant i s l i ke an Ameri can dream, " Madge
says. For many years she had hel ped her h usband gather
and produce seafood di shes. She even took thei r f i shi ng
7 7
boat out al one on occasi on, somet hi ng t hat many women
d i dn' t often do, she says.
There' s an al most mysti cal sense about the Cedar Keys
t hat makes one feel secure, even t hough the town i s so
remote from any other ci ty. Some bel i eve the at mosphere af
fects the f l avor of the seafood. But Madge expl ai ns that the
combi nati on of fresh and sal t water i n t hree bodi es of water
causes the oysters, for exampl e, to grow at t remendous
speed. They al ready have a sal ty taste, so you don 't need to
add more. Typi cal l y, t he soft-shel l ed crabs avai l abl e here *
are tender and sweet . Another l ocal speci al ty i s red f i sh
chowder, but i f red f i sh i sn't avai l abl e, grou per may be used
as a substi t ute.
The at mosphere at Johnson' s i s casual , as i s everyt hi ng
about Cedar Key. But there' s nothi ng casual about t he si ze
of the servi ngs. "No one goes away hungry, " Madge says,
"but I don't know how they eat i t al l ! " Act ual l y, the "hal f d i n
ners" are pl enty and are popu l ar among those wi th l ess
hearty appet i tes.
The house speci al ty i s cal l ed the Mol l y Brown Speci al . I t' s
i n such great demand that as many as 75 pri vate pl anes a
day have been known to f l y i n to pi ck up these d i nners. I t' s a
four-course feast whi ch i ncl udes a seafood cocktai l , stone
crabs, Cedar Key' s famous hearts of pal m sal ad (popul arl y
known as swamp cabbage), and a heapi ng pl ate of assorted
seafood. Smal l wonder!
Directions: From U.S. 19/98 North or South, take SR 24 West
at Otter Creek. It's 23 miles to Cedar Key along an almost
totally undeveloped straight stretch of road through clumps
of saba I palm, cypress, and cedar. The road is unlit. Once
you get to Cedar Key, follow signs to the pier. The whole
island is only about a mile long and a half-mile wide, so
you'll have a hard time getting lost.
While you're here: The Cedar Key State Museum is a little
less than two miles north of SR 24 and contains exhibits of
household artifacts from the town 's past. If you're in town
mid-April for the annual Cedar Key Art Festival or mid
October for the Seafood Festival, you'll see an otherwise
sleepy village wake up and take on an animated character.
The art festival is one of the best known in the state. The
seafood festival includes an oyster-shucking contest and a
parade.
-To order fresh, Cedar Key soft-shel l ed crabs, wri te to James Al l en
Seafood, General Del ivery, Cedar Key, |L 322b. Tel l hi m we sent ya!
78
CRABFINGERS
1 1 l b. package crabfi ngers, steamed
2 eggs
water
dry, l i ght cornmeal
Johnson 's
Cedar Key
Beat eggs i n a smal l bowl wi t h a fork unt i l smooth,
addi ng about t hree parts water to eggs. Rol l
crabf i ngers l i ght l y i n cor nmeal and di p a few at a
t i me i n eggs wi t h one hand. Hol d cornmeal i n other
hand and sq ueeze around d i pped crabf i ngers. Fry
unt i l gol den brown, and serve wi t h tartar or cocktai l
sauce.
Serves: 3
Preparat i on: about 5 mi n utes
Cooki ng: about 5 mi nutes per bat ch
uCrabfingers are also known as cocktail claws.
They're whole crab claws with the shells peeled off.
Dipping in meal, then eggs, then meal again makes a
nice, light breading. "
79
Johnson's
Cedar Key
HERS OF PALM SALD
1 head l ettuce
sl i ced peaches, canned or fresh-3 sl i ces per
servi ng
2-3 cans hearts of pal m *, sl i ced, or f resh i f avai l abl e
sugared dates for garni sh
1 large can pi neappl e chunks
i ce cream toppi ng, below
Pl ace l ettuce i n i ndi vi dual sal ad bowl s and arrange
f rui t around si des, wi t h hearts of pal m i n cent er. Top
wi t h:
I CE CREAM TOPPI NG (make ahead)
% gal . pl us 1 qt. vani l l a i ce cream
7 oz. pi neappl e j ui ce
4 T. mayonnai se
1 T. crunchy peanut butter (a l i ttl e goes a l ong
way ! )
% t. green food col ori ng
Combi ne al l i ngredi ent s and beat wi t h mi xer t o a
worki ng consi stency, taki ng care not to l et i ce cream
get too soft or i t wi l l crystal l i ze. Ref reeze. Serve
when f i rm enough to scoop, about 3 hours.
Serves: 6-8 (makes % gal l on)
Preparat i on: 1 5 mi nutes pl us f reezi ng t i me
"Nearly everyone has a favorite hearts of palm dish,
but the ice cream topping makes this one speCial!
Fresh hearts of palm are available within limitations
spelled out by state law (see Appendix). "
Avai l abl e in most Gourmet Speci al ty Shops.
80
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0
Masarkown Hotel
Restaurant
Masarkown
I n contrast wi t h the et hni c communi t i es t hat have
become assi mi l ated i nto modern ci ty l i fe, Masaryktown is a
good exampl e of a smal l town that conti nues to focus on the
Ol d Country' s customs. Named for the fi rst presi dent of the
Republ i c of Czechosl ovaki a, i t was f i rst set t l ed i n t he 1920s.
The ori gi nal i ntent of the Czech i mmi grants who formed the
Hernando Pl antat i on Company was to rai se ci trus to sustai n
the communi ty. But two ki l l er freezes wi ped out so much of
t he crop that many of the men ret urned to New York, t hei r
port of ent ry i nto t hi s country, to rai se capi tal i nstead.
Those who stayed, however, turned to chi cken farmi ng , an
enterpr i se whi ch became so successf ul t hat t here were
once as many as 50 farms i n the area. Now t here are onl y
about 15 farms, and t he owners are a l arge Tampa corpora
ti on i nst ead of i nd i vi dual Czech and Sl ovak-Ameri cans.
Chi cken di nners are st i l l a t radi t i onal favori te, and t he
Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant i s a fri end l y pl ace f or the
fami l y. Both Czech and Ameri can cooki ng are offered.
83
Establ i shed i n 1 925 as a hotel , t he bu i l di ng i s a si mpl e
wh i te frame struct ure. Today i t ' s no l onger a hotel , but
owner Harol d Schaefer and h i s fami l y l i ve upstai rs. Go past
t he entry foyer and gi ft shop to the di n i ng rooms, where t he
sound of conversation creates a pl easant ambi ance. The
r ust i c wood panel i ng i s a backdrop for some eart hy Czec h
sayi ngs i n pi ct ure frames.
The menu feat ures di fferent speci al s every day. The
Halusky t hat' s gerved wi t h the Chicken Paprikash i s a noodl e
di sh si mi l ar t o t he German Spaetzl and has a doughy texture
t hat comes from keepi ng the l i d on t he pot whi l e i t' s bei ng
cooked. Many typi cal Czech reci pes cal l for extra sugar, l i ke
t hei r carrots, whi ch are al so seasoned wi t h chives. Harol d
says thei r popul ar strudel dessert i s made by one of t he ol der
women i n the town who won't reveal t he reci pe. But, he adds,
t here are ot her cooks to carry on the t radi ti on when she' s
gone. Try the Kolacky, too, a pastry not qui te so f l aky as the
strudel . Czech kitchens usual l y contai n a Pirka, or goose
feather baster, to brush over the past ri es.
Throughout t he year festi ve dance cel ebrat i ons are hel d
at t he new Masaryktown Communi ty Hal l , especi al l y for
Masaryk' s bi rt hday and Czech I ndependence Day (October).
The Beseda Dancers wear tradi tional Czech fol k costumes
wi th bri ght col ors, i ntri cate desi gns, and ri ckrack. You can
buy t i ckets at the Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant and see
j ust how one of Fl ori da' s many et hni c groups has cont i nued
to keep i ts heri tage al i ve.
Directions: From Tampa, take U. S. 41 North, about 25 miles
north of the Tampa city limits, just past the Herando County
Line (CR 578), to the blinking light at Wilson Boulevard. The
restaurant is on the east side of the street. Or, coming from
Brooksville, simply take 41 south about nine miles.
While you're here: This is a placid part of the state where
back roads are dotted with flea markets and trading posts.
I t's a sort of year-round yard sale. Stop in and bargain-one
person's junk is another 's treasure! The Hernando County
Courthouse in Brooksville is a distinctive red brick Victorian
monument with a modern annex. In the early 1 900s a fence
was built around the building to protect the lawn from
livestock.
84
Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant
Masaryktown
SAUERKRAUT
3% C. sauerkraut (1 l b. 1 1 oz. can)
1 t. caraway seed
2 T. ol ive oi l or cooki ng oi l
% C. sugar
% C. chopped oni ons
2 cups water (approx.)
Drai n sauerkraut and pl ace i n pot or kett l e. Add ot her
i ng red i ents and enough wat er to al most cover t he
mi xt ure. Si mmer unt i l t he on i ons are t ender, about
20 mi nutes.
Serves: 4
HA quick and easy side dish for pork. "
85
Masaryktown
CHICKEN PAPRIKSH
1 stewi ng hen or pl ump fryer
1 oni on
cel ery
1 clove garl i c, chopped
papri ka
% C. salad oi l or butter
Cook chi cken i n kett l e, wi t h or wi t hout t he ski n , i n as
l i tt l e water as possi bl e, wi t h oni ons, cel ery, and sal t
and pepper to taste. ( For bul k quant i t i es t he
Masaryktown Hotel Restau rant bakes t he chi ckens
f i rst, 20 at a ti me, t hen ski ns t hem and pl aces i n
steam t abl e trays. ) After boi l i ng, remove ch i cken and
drai n water after cooki ng. Bone when ski n i s cool .
Coat bottom of deep fryi ng pan wi t h sal ad oi l or
butter and si mmer remai ni ng i ngred i ent s wi t h
ch i cken unt i l ch i cken starts t o brown. Wat ch oi l
caref ul l y. Serve wi t h:
SOUR CREAM SAUCE
2 C. sour cream
1 T. grated cheese (any ki nd-Col by or Cheddar or
your choice)
1 smal l oni on, chopped and saut
e
ed
1 T. or more sugar to taste
1 t. to 1 T. chi ves
papri ka
Fi rst warm t he sour cream. Add cheese and bl end i n
as it mel ts. Add oni ons, t hen seasoni ngs. Spri nkl e
papri ka on top. ( I f sour cream is too t hi ck, t hi n t he
mi xture by addi ng more mi l k. )
86
Serves: 4
Masaryktown
Preparat i on: ch i cken -45 mi n utes; sauce-1 0
mi n utes
Cooki ng: depends on what ki nd of ch i cken i s used. ,
Fryer takes about 45 mi n utes; stewi ng
hen takes about 2 hours.
"A turnip or parsnip added t o the chicken while
cooking adds a subtle sweet taste. Rather than
draining the water, reserve it to use as soup or
broth. "
-NOTES-
87
Masaryktown Hotel Restauran t
Masaryktown
STUFFED CABBAGE
1 l b. ground beef
1 egg
1 smal l oni on, chopped
1 smal l green pepper, chopped
% C. ri ce (raw)
Lowry's seasoned sal t
dash oregano
dash sugar
1 large head of cabbage
ROLLS
Mi x above i ngredi ent s (except cabbage) toget her wi t h
hands and set as i de. Steam cabbage and pi ck
4 l eaves off as they become pl i abl e. Wrap % l b. of
meat mi xture i n each l eaf. Then prepare t he sauce.
SAUCE
1 6 oz. can tomato sauce
6 oz. water
ham base or smal l pi ece bl anched sal t pork
% C. chopped oni ons
2 T. sugar or to taste
Mi x al l i ngred i ents wel l . Pou r over cabbage rol l s.
Bri ng sauce and cabbage rol l s to boi l , ei t her on top
of stove or i n oven, unt i l cabbage l eaves are t ender,
about 45 mi n ut es.
88
Serves: 4
Masaryktown
"Ham base can be purchased at restaurant supply
houses; however, you can replace it with salt pork
with excellent results. Stuffed cabbage is a practical
one-pot meal. "
NOTES
89
Masaryktown
SPICED APPLES
1 1 l b. 4 oz. can sl i ced appl es
1 t. ci nnamon
% C. sugar
pi nch of sal t to bri ng out fl avor
1 T. mel ted butter or margari ne
water
Add enough wat er to mi xt ure of above i ng redi ents to
barel y cover t hem. Cook on medi um heat unt i l
tender, about 1 0 t o 20 mi nutes. Serve warm or col d,
on the si de wi t h sauerkraut .
Serves: 4
"A delicious alternative to applesauce! "
90
Buddy Freddys
Plan Ci
Pl ant Ci ty' s Johnson fami l y has been i n t he food and
restau rant busi ness for more t han 30 years. Brothers Buddy
and Freddy Johnson are keepi ng al i ve thi s t radi t i on i n t hei r
own restaurant, a l ocal l andmark i n i ts own ri ght.
The fi ddl e mounted on the wal l near the entrance bel onged
to t hei r grandfather, "Pop" Johnson. Years ago, "Pop" used
to entertai n passersby on street corners i n Montgomery,
Al abama, and l ater performed wi t h Hank Wi l l i ams. The fami l y
moved to Fl ori da i n 1 932 and has remai ned here ever si nce.
Today one of t he brot hers' uncl es performs at some of the
fami l y' s an ni versary cel ebrat i ons.
The boys' father got started i n t he food busi ness by haul
i ng produce i n east Fl ori da. After he marri ed and the boys
were born, he ran a gas stat i on t hat al so served sandwi ches
on t he sout h si de of town. That smal l eatery eventual l y
became a 250-seat restaurant l ocated i n downtown Pl ant Ci ty
unti l j ust a few years ago. Mr. Johnson' s si sters were t he
cooks.
Today, Buddy Freddys i s a contemporary country restau
rant just a bl ock from Pl ant Ci ty' s famous Strawberry Festi val
91
grounds. Surpri si ngl y, the bui l di ng used to be a dri ve-i n, but
i t' s now attract i vel y decorated wi th rough-sawn cedar. Mural s
and smal l pai nt i ngs by l ocal arti st John Bri ggs portray t he
rural and farm l i fe of the area i n bri ght col ors. Bri ggs has been
feat ured i n American Artist magazi ne, has work i n
Washi ngton' s Hi rshhorn Col l ecti on, and has recei ved several
grants and awards.
The menu at Buddy Freddys i s an appeal i ng mi x of
Southern and Fl ori da reci pes, many f rom wi t h i n the fami l y.
Buddy i s especi al l y proud of t hei r seasonal vegetabl e
di shes. Breads and desserts are al l homemade, and i t ' s okay
to pl ace a take-out order.
Pri nted on the menu i s a wel come to "our fami l y of
fri ends. " Thi s i s a popul ar, i n-town gatheri ng spot where most
of the l ocal s know each other and don' t hesi tate to exchange
news across tabl es. Wi th that ki nd of fri endl y envi ronment,
even newcomers wi l l feel at home at Buddy Freddys.
Directions: Buddy Freddys is at 2104 West Reynolds Street
(SR 574). From /4 take Exit 1 1 (Plant City/Thonotosassa
Road) south into town. The road bears slightly to the right
just past SR 92 and becomes Lemon Street. Lemon Street in
tersects with Reynolds at the restaurant location. Buddy
Freddys is on the northwest corer.
While you're here: The Strawberry Festival , combined with
the Hill sborough County Fair, is a major popular event every
February. Historically, Plant City was the site of a link in
Henry Plant's railroad from Sanford to Tampa, completed in
1884. Fl orida Southern Col lege is in Lakeland, about a 15- to
20-minute drive east. The attractive buildings were designed
by Frank Lloyd Wright.
92
COUNTY FRIED STEK
1 C. pl ai n fl our
1 t. sal t
1 t. bl ack pepper
6 5oz. choi ce top round cube steaks
1 C. cooki ng oi l
GRAVY
1 T. pl ai n fl our
% t. Lawry Seasoned Sal t
% t. oni on, granul ated
% t. granul ated garl i c
1 C. water
Buddy Freddys
Plant City
Combi ne f l our, sal t and pepper. Rol l steaks i n t hi s
mi xt ure and fry i n cooki ng oi l unt i l done. Set steaks
asi de. Save hal f of cooki ng oi l . Combi ne dry gravy
i ngredi ents and add to pan. St i r over medi um heat
unt i l brown. Add water and steaks. Si mmer
1 5 mi nutes or unt i l tender. Serve covered wi t h gravy.
Serves: 6
"If you prefer, you can substitute 1 T. fresh chopped
onion and 1 large chopped clove garlic for the
granulated garlic. We also made this with some extra
beef tenderloin tips we had on hand. Great!"
J
Buddy Freddys
Plant City
HOMEMADE CHI CKEN AND DUMPLI NGS
1 3l b. chi cken, fryer
2 qts. water
1 T. sal t
1 t. bl ack pepper
1 chi cken boui l l on cube
1 t. Lawry Seasoned Salt
DUMPLI NGS
2 C. pl ai n fl our
3 l arge eggs
water
Pl ace chi cken and al l seasoni ngs i n a l arge pot and
add wat er to cover. Bri ng to a boi l . Ski m resi due from
top. Lower heat and si mmer unt i l t ender, about
45 mi nutes. Remove chi cken. Cool , ski n and bone.
For dumpl i ngs, bl end fl our and eggs wi th enough
water to form a st i ff dough, l i ke a pi e crust. Pul l off
about a hal f cup of dough at a t i me and pl ace on
f l our-dusted waxed paper. Dust top of dough wi t h
f l our and rol l t hi n, about " i nch, wi t h rol l i ng pi n. Cut
i nto 1 %- i nch st r i ps and pul l of f pi eces about 1 i nch
l ong. Drop i nt o boi l i ng stock. Boi l unt i l dumpl i ngs are
t ender, about 1 0 mi nutes. Add chi cken and si mmer
u nt i l heated t hrough.
Serves: 6-8
Preparat i on: 20-30 mi nutes
"A classic Southern favorite. "
94
Buddy Freddys
Plant City
FRESH ZUCCHI NI AND TOMATOES
6 smal l fresh zucchi ni
1 clove garl i c, smashed
1 a-oz. can of tomatoes, drai ned and diced (or 8 oz.
fresh tomatoes, diced)
1 T. Wesson oi l
1 T. sugar
1 T. sal t
% t. bl ack pepper
% C. water
Cut zucchi ni i nto bi t e-si ze pi eces. Combi ne wi t h
other i ngredi ent s. Si mmer i n a covered saucepan for
20 mi nutes or unt i l zucchi ni i s j ust t ender.
Serves: 6-8
"Pass some grated Parmesan cheese for extra zip_ "
95
Buddy Freddys
Plant City
SCALLOPED EGGPLNT
2 l arge eggpl ants, peel ed and cut i nto 1 i nch x
1 i nch x 2i nch squares
1 C. grated sharp Cheddar cheese
1 aoz. can tomatoes, di ced
1 medi um oni on, di ced
2 t ubes Sal ti nes, crushed
1 t. bl ack pepper
1 t. sal t
1 T. Wesson oi l
1 t. oregano leaves
2 T. Parmesan cheese
Steam and drai n egg pl ant s. Combi ne al l i ngredi ent s
except Parmesan cheese. Pl ace i n baki ng pan ,
spr i nkl e Parmesan cheese on t op, and bake 1 5
mi n utes at 400 .
Serves: 8
UThis is an easy way to prepare a hearty dish! "
96
Buddy Freddys
Plant City
STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE
2 C. sel f'ri si ng fl our
1 t . baki ng powder
1 C. confecti oners sugar
% C. shorteni ng such as Cri sco
1 t . vani l l a
1 C. mi l k
% sti ck butter, melted
1 qt. fresh strawberri es, sweetened to taste
whi pped cream
Combi ne and si ft dry i ngredi ent s. Cut i n shorteni ng
wi t h pastry bl ender. St i r i n van i l l a and mi l k j ust unt i l
bl ended . I t may be necessary t o add a l i t t l e more
f l our to achi eve t he r i ght con si stency. Form i nto a
bal l . Rol l dough out about 1 % i nches t hi ck on f l oured
wax paper or pastry cl ot h. Cut out bi scu i t-si zed
rounds wi t h a l i d from Pam or other spray can as a
cooki e cutter. Pl ace bi scui t rounds on a greased
baki ng sheet. Bake at 350 0 F. for about 1 2 to
15 mi n utes or unt i l gol den brown . Brush tops wi t h
mel ted butter. Sl i ce bi scu i ts i n hal f , add strawberri es,
and repl ace bi scui t tops. Serve topped wi th whi pped
cream.
Serves: 6-8
Cooki ng: 1 5 mi nutes
HWhat better dish to come from Plant City, Florida's
strawberry capital! This shortcake is sweeter than
usual. "
97
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Allen
'
s Historical
Caf
e
Auburndale
Veteran Fl ori da songwri ter and fol ksi nger Fran k Thomas
penned a t une about Carl Al l en, a nat i ve Fl ori di an who was
named by t he statewi de Sertoma Cl ub as the state' s Number
One Cracker, "Pol k County' s favori te son. "
Goes t he song, "Carl Al l en ' s my name and catf i shi n ' s my
game I But t hat ai n' t al l I 've done. I I 've been an ol d man and
an ol d cow hand. I I ' m a wi se ol d son of a gun. "
Accordi ng t o l ocal f ol kl ore, that' s what a Fl ori da Cracker
real l y used to be, a cow hunter, and Carl was one hi msel f .
Duri ng the 1 9t h century the Cracker cowboys woul d crack
t hei r whi ps whi l e they were out herdi ng ri di cul ous- l ooki ng
scru b cows. They were ri di cul ous- l ooki ng i n t hose days, at
l east accord i ng to hi stori cal records, but by the 1 920s, due
t o i mprovements i n breedi ng technol ogy, t hei r appearance
was much better. Catt l e rai si ng has been a Fl ori da agri
cul t ural pursui t l onger t han i n any other state i n t he count ry.
Now, Carl Al l en, "Cracker, " wi l l l et you i n on many a pi ece
of hi story, not onl y i n the tal es he can tel l but al so i n the
99
caf
e
' s decor. From the outsi de, Al l en' s Hi stori cal Caf
e
l ooks
more l i ke a pi oneer out post than a restaurant. I nsi de, every
square i nch of wal l space is covered wi t h memorabi l i a-fos
si l s, pl aques expressi ng fol k wi sdom, tool s, anti q ues, and
any other odd bal l t reasure that seems to f i t i n. You can
wei gh yoursel f on an ol d-t i me scal e and read you r fort une.
You can take pi ct ures of someone huggi ng a bi g ol d st uffed
bear that' s often posi t i oned outsi de the restaurant. (I t' s not
the teddy bear ki nd ei t her.) I n the back room bl uegrass
bands hol d weekl y jam sessi ons, and you' re wel come to j oi n
i n wi t h your own pi cki n ' . . . or j ust gri nni n' , as t he case may
be.
The menu i s pure "Cracker, " too, wi th nati ve speci al ti es
l i ke cooter (soft-shel l ed t urt l e), armad i l l o, gator, and
rattl esnake (t hat' s ri ght , rattl esnake i ) . Carl says hi s i s the
onl y restaurant i n the state servi ng i t . I t ' s rather l i ke fri ed
chi cken or frog l egs but wi t h l ess meat on t he bone. Other
regi onal trademarks aren' t so exot i c: di shes l i ke t he popul ar
greens sal ad, made wi th avocado, pecans and purpl e
grapes; and a yummy sweet potato pi e f or dessert . You can
count on everyt hi ng bei ng f reshl y caught or grown and wi t hi n
t he l i mi ts t he l aw al l ows.
Al l en' s Hi stori cal Caf
e
i s a crash course i n regi onal food
and state hi story that wi l l keep you comi ng back for more !
Directions: Allen 's Historical Cafe is a t 1387 U.S. 92 West.
From 1-4 around Lakeland, take the U. S. 98 exit south. Turn
east on U.S. 92 to the address, very near the Winter Haven
Municipal Airport.
While you're here: All manner of bluegrass festivals take
place in this area, including the state fiddling championship
in March. The July 4 old-fashioned celebration includes, of
al/ the unlikely phenomena, a Wal ki ng Catfi sh Race. You
have to see it to believe it. Then skip on over to Winter Haven
and see Flori da Cypress Gardens for outstanding water
skiing shows, live animal exhibits, thousands of flowers,
and hostesses dressed in Souther colonial-style gowns.
! UU
Allen 's Historical Cafe
Auburndale
TURLE SOUP
4 I bs. fresh t urtle meat * or 1 l b. canned, if avai l abl e
enough water to cover
1 1 6oz. can tomato j ui ce
3-4 medi um potatoes, peel ed and cut i nto smal l
chunks
% l b. barl ey
1 l arge oni on, cut i nto smal l sl i ces
sal t , pepper and Accent to taste
Boi l t urt l e unt i l meat fal l s off bone, about 1 % hours.
Remove meat f rom brot h. Remove al l bones and cut
meat i nto bi te si ze pi eces. Pl ace meat back i nto
brot h and add remai ni ng i ngredi ents. Si mmer
2 t o 4 hours.
Serves: 6-8
Preparat i on: 1 % hours
Cooki ng: 2-4 hours
"If you use canned turtle meat, skip the 1 % hours of
precooking and proceed with the rest of the recipe. "
Some large supermarkets carry fresh-water t urt l e. It is the l and t urtl e
that i s i l l egal to catch i n Fl ori da dur i ng speci fi ed ti mes of the year.
Check with the Game and Fresh Water Fi sh Commi ssi on (Appendi x) for
whi ch regul ati ons pertai n to whi ch speci es.
1 0 1
Allen's Historical Cafe
Auburdale
CRACKLl N' CORN BRED
1 % C. whi te or yel l ow sel f ri si ng corn meal
% C. sel fri si ng whi te fl our
1 t. baki ng powder (level)
4 t. sugar
2 eggs
2 T. bacon grease
% C. crackl i ngs
about 1 C. buttermi l k
Mi x al l i ngred i ents except buttermi l k. Add enough
buttermi l k t o form a pouri n g consi stency, l i ke a cake
batter. Pour i nto a hot , greased i ron ski l l et or baki ng
pan . Bake at 350 O F. unt i l done, about 20 mi n ut es.
Serves: 4-6
Preparat i on: 1 0 mi n utes
IIA standard Southern favorite. You don't need to add
salt since the bacon grease and cracklings provide
the flavor. "
Crackl i ngs are made from the ri nd of ham or pork. You can buy them i n
t he meat section of many supermarkets or make your own. Cut ri nd or fat
i nto 1i nch squares. Place in a deep pan and bake at 300 F. unti l
browned and al l fat has been rendered. Drai n and store i n refrigerator for
use as needed.
1 02
Auburdale
WATERMELON SOUP
2 qts. water
4-6 each, chi cken breasts, necks, and backs for
stock
rind from 1 l arge watermel on (whi te porti on
only), cut i nto smal l cubes (about 4 C. )
1 -2 medi um carrots, cut i nto smal l cubes
1 C. oni ons, chopped fi ne
1 -2 tomatoes, chopped fi ne
1 smal l can water chestnuts, drai ned and cut
fi ne
garl i c powder, sal t, bl ack pepper, and Accent
to taste
Make stock wi t h chi cken breasts, necks, and backs.
When stock i s done, remove breasts. Bone and
remove al l ski n and fat . Cut breast meat i nto smal l
cubes and set asi de. Remove t he rest of t he chi cken
from t he stock. You wi l l be usi ng onl y t he breast
meat i n t hi s reci pe. Strai n the stock. Add watermel on
r i nd t o stock and boi l unt i l r i nd i s t ender, about
30 mi nutes. Add carrots, oni ons, t omatoes, and water
chest nut s, and boi l unt i l al l i ngredi ent s are done.
Add t he cut - up chi cken breasts and season to taste
wi t h garl i c powder, sal t , bl ack pepper, and Accent .
Serve wi t h crackers.
Serves: 6-8
Cooki ng: about 40 mi n utes pl us t i me to make
chi cken stock
"This is a very light and delectable soup, perfect as
an appetizer. If you are in a hurry, use canned chicken
stock and poach the chicken breasts in it. Proceed as
above. This recipe originated in the Philippines but
works great with Florida watermelon!"
1 03
Auburdale
SWAMP CABBAGE
% smal l head, heart of t he cabbage pal m *(cut out
tender part i nsi de the pal m), or 2 cans hearts
of pal m*
6 sl i ces smoked bacon, fried cri sp ("sow's bel l y")
1 C. water
Crumbl e the fri ed bacon and add to saucepan al ong
wi th grease f rom bacon, water, and cabbage pal m.
Add sal t and pepper t o taste. Boi l u nt i l t ender.
Si mmer 3 to 4 hours.
Serves: 4-6
Cooki ng: 3-4 hours
"This is a delicious Florida dish with a taste al/ its
own. Serve it as a vegetable. When the Spaniards
came to Florida, they discovered that this native
delicacy was a favorite with the Indians. "
Avai l abl e at the Gourmet Secti on at your supermarket.
See Appendi x for i nformat i on on l egal use of t hi s state-protected
s peci es.
1 04
Auburndale
FRIED CITRONS
2-3 unri pe ci trons (about the si ze of an orange)
sal t, pepper and Accent to taste
egg and mi l k beaten together, for di ppi ng
cooki ng oi l
Th i nl y s l i ce ci t rons and soak i n sal t wat er about
2 to 3 hours, or l onger i f you prefer cri sper ci trons.
Season wi th sal t, pepper and Accent . Di p i n f l our ,
t hen i n egg- mi l k mi xt ure, t hen back i n f l our. Fry i n
cooki ng oi l as i f you were f ryi ng t omatoes or
eggpl ant , unt i l ci t rons are tender and brown.
Serves: 4-6
Preparat i on: 2 to 3 hours to soak
Cooki ng: 5- 1 0 mi nutes
"Carl Allen says this is a real treat, especially if you
like fried green tomatoes or eggplant. Citrons grow
wild in many regions of the state and can easily be
found in watermelon fields. This recipe actually is for
citron mel ons, which are green when they are young.
The larger white-and-green striped fruit is used to
make candied citron used in fruitcakes. "
105
Auburdale
SWEE POTATO PIE
1 % C. fresh or canned sweet potatoes, cooked
% C. sugar
1 t. ci nnamon
1 t. al l spi ce
% t. sal t
2 eggs, beaten
1 C. evaporated mi l k
2 T. butter, very soft
1 9% i nch unbaked pi e shel l
I f usi ng canned sweet potatoes, drai n. Mash potatoes
unt i l free of l umps. Add sugar, ci nnamon, al l spi ce,
and sal t . Mi x wel l . Add beaten eggs and mi x wel l .
Bl end i n mi l k and butter. Cont i nue t o mi x unt i l al l
i ngredi ents are wel l bl ended. Pour i nto unbaked pi e
shel l and bake for 45 mi nutes at 350 F. Serve hot.
Yi el ds: 1 91f2- i nch pi e
Preparat i on: 1 0- 1 5 mi n utes
"This is an old-fashioned recipe for an oldtime
delicious pie. Add whipped cream or topping, if
you like. "
1 06
Auburdale
SWAMP CABBAGE AMBROSIA
% head fresh swamp cabbage *, cut very fi ne, or
1 can hearts of pal m, drai ned and di ced
1 l arge ripe papaya
8 oranges, peel ed, seeded, and separated i n
secti ons
1 smal l package shredded coconut
1 smal l jar maraschi no cherries
sugar to taste (or sweetener of your choi ce)
Mi x al l i ngred i ents and sweeten to taste. Ch i l l
and serve.
Serves: 8-1 0
Preparat i on: 5- 1 0 mi n utes pl us 1 -2 hours to chi l l
"This is a very unusual way of preparing swamp
cabbage. Carl Allen suggests that you call several
days ahead if you wish to order a swamp cabbage
dish at the caf
e
to allow adequate preparation time
for the fresh plant. "
'See Appendi x f or i nformati on on l egal use of t hi s state-protected
speci es.
1 07
Auburdale
FLORIDA ORNGE PIE
1 C. sugar
5 T. cornstarch
2 T. orange ri nd, grated
1 C. fresh orange j ui ce
1 C. orange secti ons, cut i nto pi eces
3 egg yol ks, beaten
1 T. l emon j ui ce
1 T. butter
1 8-i nch baked pi e shel l
Combi ne sugar, cornstarch , grated orange ri nd,
orange j u i ce and orange secti ons. Cook on l ow heat ,
st i rr i ng unt i l cl ear. Add smal l amount of hot mi xture
to beaten egg yol ks, ret urn to hot mi xt u re, and cook
about 5 mi n utes l onger. Remove from heat and bl end
i n l emon j ui ce and butter. Pour i nto baked pi e shel l ,
maki ng sure both f i l l i ng and shel l are t he same
temperat ure, ei t her hot or col d. Top wi t h:
1 08
MERI NGUE
3 egg whi tes
6 T. sugar
% t. l emon extract
Auburdale
Beat egg wh i tes unt i l st i ff. Beat i n sugar and l emon
extract, beat i ng sl owl y unt i l smooth and g l ossy.
Spread on pi e and bake at 400 F. unt i l l i ght l y
browned, about 8- 1 0 mi nutes.
Yi el ds: 1 8-i nch pi e (serves 6)
Preparat i on: about 15 mi nutes
Cooki ng: 8-1 0 mi n utes
"If you like a taste that is slightly more tart, reduce
the amount of sugar in the filling to % of a cup. This
is an excellent way to get your 'taste of Florida
sunshine. ' "
1 09
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Acapulco Ca
f
e
Zolfo Springs
"Thi s i s pretty much a second home to us, " says Rose
Zamora of her fami l y' s Acapu l co Caf
e
. "We' re here most of
the t i me. "
And the restaurant does l ook more l i ke a l arge fami l y
room i n someone' s home t han i t does a restaurant . The TV
set may be t urned on, fami l y pi ct ures l i ne t he wal l s and
kni ck-knack shel ves, one di ni ng area i s panel ed i n knotty
pi ne, and Mexi can pinatas hang from t he cei l i ng. There are
onl y four tabl es i n the mai n room, and even t hough t hi s is a
publ i c pl ace, i t ' s cozy enough so t hat i f you were seated on a
couch i nstead of at a tabl e, you coul d j ust sl i p your shoes
off, l ean back, and l et Rose and her mother and si sters make
you feel at home.
Rose was born i n Brownvi l l e, Texas, and grew u p i n
Hel ena, Arkansas, near t he Mi ssi ssi ppi Ri ver. Her mother
had been a cook i n several restaurants i n Brownvi l l e. When
they moved to Fl ori da her father became a crew l eader i n the
produce f i el ds unt i l hi s heal t h no l onger permi tted h i m to
work so hard out si de. So, he opened the cat
e
i n 1 968. Si nce
then, i t ' s become known among l ocal s as "the best pl ace for
1 1 1
Mexi can food outsi de Mexi co, " especi al l y among those
customers who themsel ves are produce workers from south
of the border.
The chunks of fresh oni ons, tomatoes and l ettuce i n
several of t he di shes are far superi or to t he processed foods
often used at many chai n restaurants. Each of the f l avors i s
d i st i nctl y fresh.
"We j ust serve what the peopl e l i ke, " says Rose. " A pay
i ng customer needs to get t hei r money' s wort h, so we don' t
take shortcut s. "
What' s essenti al to so many Mexi can di shes, she says,
are cumi n seeds, Mexi ne chi l i powder, oregano, and garl i c.
Otherwi se, i t' s "just ordi nary food l i ke you' d fi x f or yoursel f. "
And many of t he reci pes are good to prepare i f you have to
feed a l arge fami l y or i f you woul d rat her f i x one l arge batch
and reheat part of i t l ater.
Says Rose, "There' s not much happeni ng here (i n Zol fo
Spri ngs), but you don' t feel l i ke the worl d' s passi ng you by,
ei ther. " Joi n Rose and her fami l y for a meal , where the pur
pl e and whi t e peri wi nkl es create a col orf ul garden entrance
for the Acapul co Caf
e
, year-round.
Directions: The Acapulco Cafe is on U. S. 1 7 i n Zolfo Springs,
just south of the intersection with SR 64. The cafe is on the
west side of the street. Zolfo Springs is about 50 miles east
of Bradenton.
While you're here: Probably the most unusual "sight" in the
whole state is Florida's "other magic kingdom, " the home of
sculptor Howard Solomon. Howard's home is literally his
castle, sculpted out of sheet metal, complete with towers
and turrets, art gallery, and "Medieval Campground. " There
are full outdoor recreational facilities. Though the castle is
located in the "town" of Lily and the post office address is
in On a, you 'll have to call directory assistance in Arcadia for
the Solomon business phone to get directions to this
def i ni te l y back-roads retreat. You can probably convince
Howard to give you one of the "tours" he's famous for.
About a half-hour 's drive further east of Zolfo Springs is
Sebring, home of the Coca-Cola Twelve Hours of Sebri ng
auto racing classic held in the spring. And Arcadia, less than
a half-hour's drive south, is the home of the oldest champion
ship rodeo in the state and one of the best in the nation. You
won't see any better Cracker cowboy "action" anywhere!
1 1 2
GUACAMOLE SALD
1 avocado, compl etel y ripe
2 T. oni ons, fi nel y chopped
% medi um tomato, fi nel y chopped
dash l emon j ui ce (about Y4 l emon)
pi nch of sal t
l ettuce cups or chopped l ettuce
tort i l l a chi ps (opti onal)
Tabasco sauce (opti onal )
Acapulco Cafe
Zolfo Springs
Peel avocado and mash unt i l j ust l u mpy. Do not
bl end smoot h. Add on i ons, t omato, l emon j u i ce, and
sal t . Serve on l ettuce. Garni sh wi t h tort i l l a chi ps and
pass the Tabasco or serve as a di p wi th t ort i l l a chi ps.
Serves: 4
"If you are not going to use this salad right away, be
sure to cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. This
makes an excellent dish with Mexican food or broiled
steak. "
1 1 3
Acapulco Cafe
Zolfo Springs
ENCHI LDAS
SAUCE
1 cube butter or margarine
2 cl oves garl i c, mi nced
5 T. fl our
2 t . chi l i powder
% C. cumi n seeds, browned, or ground cumi n
% t. oregano
sal t and bl ack pepper to taste
2 C. water
% C. tomato sauce
Mel t butter i n a l arge fryi ng pan. Add garl i c and
saut
e
. St i r i n f l our and cook, bri ngi ng mi xt ure t o a
gravy-l i ke consi stency. Bl end i n chi l i powder, cumi n,
oregano, sal t , and pepper. Add water and mi x,
cooki ng over medi u m heat unt i l mi xtu re t hi ckens and
comes to a boi l . Taste and adj ust season i ngs i f
necessary.
FI LLI NG
1 l b. ground beef
1 medi um tomato, fi nel y chopped
1 medi um bel l pepper, f i nel y chopped
1 medi um oni on, f i nel y chopped
1 -2 cl oves garl i c, mi nced
bl ack pepper
1 % t. chi l i powder
Saut
e
ground beef i n fryi ng pan unt i l hal fway done.
Pour off fat . Add tomato, bel l pepper, garl i c, and
oni on. Cook unt i l vegetabl es are soft and meat i s
brown, about 5 to 8 mi nutes. Add pepper to taste and
chi l i powder. Mi x, and cont i nue to cook a mi n ute or
two u nt i l al l i ngredi ents are bl ended.
1 1 4
TORTI LLAS
1 2 corn tort i l l as
vegetabl e shorteni ng for frying
1 medi um raw oni on, chopped
Cheddar cheese, grated, for toppi ng
Acapulco Cate
Zolfo Springs
I f tort i l l as are f rozen , t haw t hem compl etel y. Heat
shorteni ng i n pan and fry each tort i l l a q u i ckl y, about
5 seconds on each si de. Drai n . Pl ace tort i l l a i n
baki ng di sh , pl ace meat mi xt ure i n mi ddl e, and rol l
up. Li ne u p enchi l adas i n baki ng pan , seam si de
down. Pou r sauce over al l . Spri nkl e c hopped oni ons
on t op, t hen grated cheese. Pl ace i n oven about
t hi rty mi nutes at 350 F. , j ust l ong enough to heat
t hrough. Wi t h a spat ul a, serve onto pl ates. Thi s di sh
i s good accompani ed by sal ad, Spani sh ri ce, or
refri ed bean s.
Serves: 4-6
"There's nothing like homemade enchiladas, and this
dish is well worth the time. It's perfect to make
ahead and freezes very well. You can cook it, cool it,
then freeze it. Or, put it all together, minus the raw
onion topping, and freeze it. Add the raw onions just
before baking. "
1 1 5
Acapulco Cate
Zolfo Springs
MOLE DE GALLINA PUERCO
(CHICKEN OR PORK IN MOLE SAUCE)
1 chi cken cut i nto servi ng pi eces or 2 I bs. pork
roast or chops
water
fl our
al l vegetabl e shorteni ng
chi l i powder
3 garl i c cl oves, chopped
cumi n seeds, browned i n oil
oregano
salt and pepper
1 T. creamy peanut butter (not crunchy)
Cover chi cken or pork wi t h wat er and boi l gent l y unt i l
cooked. Save t he brot h. Brown enough f l our i n
shorteni ng t o form a gravy l i ke consi st ency. Add chi l i
powder for col or and bl end wel l . Add gar l i c, cumi n
seeds t o taste, t hen oregano t o taste. Add sal t and
pepper to taste. St i r i n enough of t he reserved broth
to make a gravy. St i r i n pean ut butter and keep
st i rr i ng unt i l compl et el y combi ned. Add the ch i cken
or meat and heat onl y l ong enough to heat t he meat
and to l et t he f l avor of the sauce seep i n . Serve wi t h
Mexi can si de di shes such as beans and ri ce.
Serves: 4-6
Cooki ng: about 35-40 mi nutes
"When you add the chili powder start with just a
pinch so that it doesn't overpower the taste of the
sauce. This is a variation on the traditional Mole
Sauce which generally uses chocolate. "
1 1 6
REFRI ED BENS
1 . package (1 l b. 8 oz.) dry pi nto beans
water to soak
cumi n seeds to taste
sal t to taste
vegetabl e shorteni ng
Acapulco Cafe
Zolfo Springs
Fol l ow i nstruct i ons on package of dry pi nt o beans
for soaki ng and cooki ng. Drai n. Heat shorten i ng i n
pan , t hen add beans. Cook bri efl y and mash f i ne
whi l e cooki ng. Keep st i r r i ng over l ow heat unt i l
beans are compl etel y ref ri ed.
Serves: 8
Preparat i on: 1 0 mi n utes pl us 3-312 hours for
soaki ng and cooki ng beans
Cooki ng: about 30 mi n utes
"Cook up a batch and store in refrigerator or freezer,
reheating as needed. You'll know when they're
done-they'll smell terrific!"
1 1 7
Ltam Restaurant
Tampa
How often do you f i nd a young restaurant owner who' s
assured, outgoi ng, competent , and al ready has 15 years of
experi ence under hi s bel t? Not very, and t hat' s why Davi d
Morej on i s unusual .
Davi d was 1 2 when hi s mother and fat her opened t he
Latam Restaurant i n 1 968, and he grew up i n t he busi ness,
doi ng everyt hi ng -wai t i ng on tabl es, cashi eri ng, bartend
i ng, cooki ng, even scrubbi ng f l oors. He was al l set to go to
l aw school i n Texas but i nstead took advantage of the oppor
t uni ty to become a partner i n t he fami l y busi ness i n 1 978.
"I had a good teacher, " Davi d says, "my dad. He was t he
chef at the Spani sh Park Restaurant f or 18 years. And t he
bartender here was Dad' s master chef. My uncl e was a chef
at the Col umbi a Restaurant. Al l the masters i n Tampa were
my teachers. "
That t rai ni ng, combined wi t h the l ow overhead of a l ong
term bu i l di ng l ease and careful management, has enabl ed
Davi d to carry on the fami l y t radi t i ons of outstandi ng Lat i n
and Ameri can cooki ng at reasonabl e pri ces. The Latam
doesn' t charge much more than cost pl us somet hi ng to
1 1 8
cover t i me and a modest profi t, yet you' l l f i nd both common
and u n usual di shes, l ocal and i mported seafood, and f resh
beef. The Picadillo, for exampl e, i s made wi th f i l et mi gnon
i nstead of ordi nary ground beef because t he restaurant does
i ts own butcheri ng and gri ndi ng. The meat i s purchased
from Fl ori da' s own gi ant congl omerate, the Lykes Company.
Davi d says the d i fferences between Spani sh and Cuban
cui si ne are as much i n the menu i tems as i n the preparat i on.
A typi cal Cuban meal , for exampl e, may i ncl ude roast pork,
Moros (bl acK beans and ri ce), and Yuca with Garlic Sauce.
One of the popu l ar Cuban di shes he and one other cook
prepare i s Polio Real Campina, named after an ol d town i n
Cuba. I t ' s a savory baked chi cken entree wi t h garl i c, ol i ve
oi l , oni ons, t hi ck potato sl i ces, and papri ka. Spani sh di shes
are more l i kel y to be spi ci er and hotter.
Another famous and easy-to-make di sh i s Steak Milanesa.
Pound a steak f i l l et t hi n, bread i t , deep fry, and serve wi t h a
tomato sauce wi t h peas, chopped egg , and pi mi ento or
parsl ey for decorat i on. Chicken Valenciano i s cooked wi t h
beer and chorizo (Spani sh sausage).
Some of the t radi t i onal Spani sh and Cuban di shes such
as Paella and Boliche are served at the Latam, but Davi d
says some peopl e feel they are ei t her t oo t i me-consumi ng
for average home preparat i on or requi re speci al techni ques
that are somewhat compl i cated.
But whatever your taste preference, Lat i n or Ameri can,
you ' l l fi nd pl enty to pl ease you at Latam.
Directions: The Latam Restaurant is at 251 1 West Colum
bus Drive. From 1-275 take the Howard Avenue exit and head
north. Tur left (west) on Columbus Drive, one block to ad
dress at the intersection with Armenia Avenue. The Latam is
on the northwest corner.
While you're here: Drive east on Columbus and south on
Boulevard into the Old Hyde Park area, a mostly residential
neighborhood with attractive restored old homes. Where
stately mansions line Bayshore Boulevard, overlooking
Hillsborough Bay, you'll probably see many joggers along
the road. Closer in to town is the University of Tampa, housed
in what was formerly the Tampa Bay Hotel, built by
developer Henry Plant a century ago. Its graceful mosques
are the most distinguishable feature of Tampa 's skyline.
One wing of the main building is now a historical museum.
1 1 9
Latam Restaurant
Tampa
GARBANZO BEN SOUP
(Al l ow t i me to soak beans over ni ght)
1 1 6oz. can garbanzo beans
2 cans water
SOFRI TO (l i ghtl y fried i ngredi ents):
oi l
% l b. toci no (sal t pork cut in pi eces)
1 chorizo (Spani sh sausage)
% lb. ham
1 potato, cut i n smal l cubes
1 oni on
pork bone (Boston butt)
Soak beans overni ght . Add sal t , but be caref ul wi t h
amount , usi ng onl y enough to hel p soften t he beans.
Drai n sal t water . You may want t o soak t hem agai n i n
pl ai n water to reduce t he sal ty taste. Boi l several
hours unt i l soft. Then add sofri to and pork bone.
Si mmer and serve as needed.
Serves: 3-4
Preparat i on: 10 hours
Cooki ng: 3-4 hours
"This is the traditional way to prepare this popular
soup. "
1 20
Latam Restaurant
Tampa
TENDERLOI N TIPS SALTEDOS
cooki ng oi l
1 l b. tenderl oi n beef ti ps, cut i nto Y2 i nch chunks
sal t and pepper, to taste
% oni on, chopped
% green pepper, fi nel y chopped
1 cl ove garl i c, chopped
1 l arge potato, di ced and saut
e
ed unt i l brown
% C. mushroom stems and pi eces
" C. sherry
% C. brown gravy or beef stock
Coat bottom of fryi ng pan wi t h cooki ng oi l . Heat oi l ,
add meat, and saut
e
unt i l brown. Add remai n i ng
i ngredi ent s and cook unt i l on i ons, peppers and meat
are cooked t hroug h, about 20 mi n utes.
Serves: 4
Cooki ng: 25-30 mi n utes, i ncl udi ng t i me to saut
e
di ced potatoes
"Serve with rice and a green vegetable. We added a
handful of almonds to the leftovers after reheating. "
1 2 1
Latam Restaurant
Tampa
STEK A L DAVI D
SAUCE
(makes 1 pi nt-enough l eftovers for
6-8 servi ngs)
4 oz. dry red wi ne
% l b. butter, cut i n smal l pi eces
% C. beef boui l l on
j ui ce of 1 l emon
% C. water
% C. Lea & Perri ns Worcestershi re sauce
(or your favori te brand)
STEAK
10 oz. fi l I et
bread crumbs
cooki ng oi l
% C. mushrooms, sl iced (saut
e
ed if desi red)
1 -2 sl i ces Swi ss cheese
% C. oni ons, chopped f i ne
2 spri gs parsl ey, chopped
2 T. peas, cooked
pi mi ento for garni sh
For sauce, mi x al l i ngredi ent s toget her and br i ng to a
boi l . Keep warm whi l e steak i s cooki ng. Pou nd steak
wi th mal l et to f l atten. I t shoul d st i l l be somewhat
t h i ck. Bread fi I l et and deep fry to desi red l evel of
doneness (about 5 mi nutes for a 1 -i nch t hi ck f i l l et,
rare). Set f i l l et i n ovenproof di sh or metal pan .
Spr i nkl e mushrooms over top and pl ace sl i ces of
Swi ss cheese over mushrooms. Bake i n oven
for 2 mi n utes at 350 F. , j ust l ong enoug h for cheese
to mel t. Spri nkl e parsl ey and oni ons on top, t hen
peas and pi mi ento. Pour 1 12 t o 2 ounces of sauce
over each servi ng of steak.
1 2 2
Serves: 1 (Sauce 6-8 persons)
Cooki ng: 1 0- 1 5 mi n utes
Latam Restaurant
Tampa
"This recipe is David's own adaptation of what
S. Agliano of Agliano Seafood meant when he said,
'/ want a big steak and / want it breaded and tender. '
Surprisingly, this dish is not at all greasy. The
breading and quick frying keep the juices in and the
fat out. "
NOTES
1 23
Latam Restaurant
Tampa
^
SEFOOD A L VASCA
% l b. smal l shri mp (or l arger shri mp cut up),
cooked, peel ed, and devei ned
% C. mushrooms, sl i ced and l ightl y saut
e
ed
1 2 oz. fi sh fi l l et such as whi ti ng, l i ghtl y saut
e
ed
4 oz. crab meat , cooked and picked over for
shel l s and carti l age
8 l arge scal l ops, cooked (can be cut in hal f)
Bechamel Sauce
I n an oven-proof di sh, arrange shri mp for a bottom
l ayer. Pl ace mushrooms over the shri mp. Pl ace f i sh
f i l l ets over mushrooms, t hen t he crab meat. Arrange
scal l ops on each si de. Prepare t he Bechamel Sauce.
BECHAMEL SAUCE
4 T. butter
% C. oni ons, fi nel y chopped
% t . sal t
% t. whi te pepper
2 C. mi l k
1 %-2 T. fl our
1 raw egg
papri ka
mel ted butter to pour over fi sh
parsley and pi mi ento for garni sh
Mel t 4 T. butter and saut
e
oni ons, bei ng caref ul not
to bur n. Add sal t and pepper. I n anot her pot, heat
mi l k and bri ng j ust to the boi l . St i r i n f l our to butter
oni on mi xt ure to make a t hi ck past e. You may have
to add more butter. Cook, st i rr i ng unt i l mi xt ure i s
smoot h. Add mi l k and mi x unt i l t here are no l umps.
Heat , cont i nu i ng to sti r unt i l mi xt ure i s t hi ckened.
Add raw egg and mi x wel l . Pour sauce over f i sh.
1 24
Latam Restaurant
Tampa
Spri nkl e papr i ka on t op; t hen pour over a l i t t l e mel ted
butter. Bake at 350 F. unt i l sauce i s browned, about
5 mi nutes. The fi sh i s al ready cooked, and the baki ng
i s j ust for warmi ng and to br i ng out al l t he f l avors.
Garn i sh wi th parsl ey and pi mi ento.
Serves: 4
Preparat i on : 20 mi n utes
Cooki ng: 20 mi n utes (i ncl udes t i me for cooki ng f i sh
and Bechamel Sauce)
"This is a mouth-watering dish with a mild sauce. Try
adding a little chopped fresh basil, oregano or other
herb to the sauce for variety and color. "
NOTES
1 25
Latam Restaurant
Tampa
YUCA CON MOJO DE AO
(YUCA WI GARLIC SAUCE)
1 package frozen yuca (avai l abl e i n Spani sh
groceri es)
water to cover
salt to taste
Thaw f rozen yuca. Pl ace i n pot and cover wi t h water.
Add a l i t t l e sal t and boi l unt i l soft (si mi l ar to
prepari ng boi l ed carrots or potatoes), about
1 5 mi nutes.
GARLI C SAUCE: (makes 1 quart)
1 pt. pork l ard (rendered after cooki ng pork)
% pt. cl ove garl i c, chopped fi ne (dehydrated garl i c
may al so be used), or l ess, to taste
1 whol e onion, chopped
jui ce of 1 whol e l emon
1 -2 oz. dry whi te wi ne or cooki ng wi ne
1 oz. vi negar (optional )
Mi x pork l ard and garl i c. Add oni on, l emon j u i ce, sal t
and pepper to tast e, and wi ne. Add vi negar i f desi red.
Heat mi xture unt i l i t boi l s. I t wi l l take several
mi nutes for t he garl i c and t he on i ons to cook, but be
caref ul not to l et t hem bur n. Serve over yuca, roast
pork, or other di shes for whi ch you woul d l i ke a
sauce wi t h a very strong garl i c f l avor. Leftover sauce
can be ref ri gerated and reheated.
Serves: 4-6
Preparat i on: yuca-1 0 mi n utes; sauce -5 mi n utes
Cooki ng: yuca-1 5 mi nut es; sauce-5- 1 0 mi n utes
"Garlic lovers, this is for you!"
1 26
La Teresia
Tampa
When Lat i n fami l i es enter the restau rant busi ness, they
do so con gusto-al l the way. For Max Capdevi l a, hi s four
sons, and several others i n t he fami l y, La Teresi ta i s i ndeed
thei r l i fe. What started out as a smal l grocery store expanded
by addi ng a fi sh market. Next came a sandwi ch shop and l ater
a f ul l caf
e
that' s packed morni ng to n i ght. They' re al l part of
La Teresi ta' s operat i on. The grocery store, whi ch i s l ess than
hal f the si ze of a typi cal chai n supermarket, offers j ust as
much of what the l ocal Hi span i c communi ty wants, often at
better pri ces.
The cat
e
i s si mpl y desi gned, wi t h cou nter space onl y. But
j ust wai t unt i l t hey start pi l i ng the food hi gh on your pl ate.
An order for one can often sat i sfy two, for l ess than what
you' d pay at a fast food restaurant. And the food here offers
a taste of gen u i ne et hni c f l avors al ong Tampa' s "Bol i che
Boul evard. " That' s Col umbus Dri ve' s n i ckname because of
the l arge number of Cuban and Spani sh eateri es and stores
that l i ne the street for several bl ocks.
Says George, the ol dest son, "There' s nothi ng better than
competi ti on. Al l the restaurants on Bol i che are al ways
packed. "
1 2 7
You can eas i l y observe what t hi s part of t he communi ty i s
l i ke at La Teresi ta. Not qui te hal f of t he customers are
Angl os, says George. The mayor stops i n frequent l y for Cafe
can Leche. There' s a reason to dri nk it sweetened. I t' s ex
t remel y strong- fl avored Cuban coffee mixed wi th mi l k t hat
has been steamed i n a separate contai ner.
"There' s not hi ng q u i et about Lati ns, " George observes as
he surveys t he ani mated conversat i ons across t he cou nter.
"And Lat i ns eat . "
La Teresi ta serves both Cuban and Spani sh di shes, but
George says t he di fferences are mai n l y i n t he seasoni ngs. I n
Cuba, he expl ai ns, bl ack beans go wi th wh i te r i ce, not
yel l ow; and here, whi te r i ce on the tabl e i s a must f or his
Cuban customers. Many reci pes cal l for j u i ce f rom sour
oranges, a vari ety that some of hi s customers bri ng i n from
t hei r own backyards. I t doesn' t have as strong an aci d taste
as l emon j u i ce, whi ch i s someti mes used as a SUbst i t ute.
The Bistec Palomilla i s a popul ar meat di sh. I t' s one that i n
typi cal Cuban fashi on cal l s for t hi nl y sl i ced si rl oi n that i s
pounded even t hi nner, seasoned, pan fri ed, and served wi th
a heapi ng port i on of yel l ow ri ce. General l y, says George, the
Lat i n di et doesn' t have so many green vegetabl es as does an
Angl o di et but focuses more on potato- l i ke roots such as
yuca and mal anga.
One t hi ng' s for certai n-no one ever l eaves La Teresi ta
hu ngry!
Directions: La Teresita is at 3202 West Columbus Drive. From
1-275 take the Howard Avenue exit and head north. Turn left
(west on Columbus Drive, seven blocks to address. La
Teresita is on the south side of the street.
While you're here: Tampa is a very sports-minded city, and
you're only a few minutes away from Tampa Stadi um. Catch
a pro NFL, USFL, or NASL game with the Tampa Bay Bucca
neers, Bandits, or Rowdies, respectively. Then drive out to
the Tampa I nternati onal Ai rport, so weI/-designed that it has
become the model for airports in many other cities. For
another view of the urban landscape go up to the observa
tion deck.
1 28
La Teresita
Tampa
QUICK GARBANZO BEN SOUP
1 oni on
2 smal l or 1 large green pepper
1 cl ove garl i c
1 chorizo (Spani sh sausage)
% C. Vi go ol i ve oi l (or your favori te brand)
1 1 6oz. can of garbanzo beans (chi ck peas),
drai ned
2 cans water
% l b. cooki ng ham (smoked ham or ham hock) cut
i nto smal l cubes
% t. sal t
Cut oni on, peppers, garl i c, and chori zo i nto smal l
pi eces. Saut
e
i n ol i ve oi l unt i l vegetabl es are l i mp.
Whi l e vegetabl es are saut
e
i ng, mi x garbanzo beans
and wat er i n a saucepan and heat . Add saut
e
ed
vegetabl e mi xt ure, smoked ham or ham hock, and
sal t and mi x. Br i ng t o a boi l . Reduce heat and
si mmer for 15 mi n utes.
Serves: 3-4
Preparat i on: 1 5-20 mi n utes
"This is a delicious soup that the whole family
should enjoy. The chorizo gives the soup a special
flavor that complements the garbanzo beans. Serve
with a tossed green salad and hot crusty Cuban or
French bread. "
1 29
La Teresita
Tampa
PALOMI LL STEK
top butt steak, thi nl y cut
Adobo Cri ol l o seasoni ng* (al l purpose seasoni ng
wi th sal t, pepper, garl i c, and oni on powder)
pork l ard or oi l
chopped oni ons
l emon j uice or sour orange j uice (opti onal )
Pound steaks to tenderi ze. Spri n kl e l i g ht l y or to taste
wi th Adobo seasoni ng. I f desi red, spri n kl e wi t h
l emon or sour orange j u i ce. Fry i n pork l ard or oi l on
both si des unt i l done, about 5 mi nutes. On i ons can
be fri ed wi th steak or served raw and spri nkl ed over
t op. Thi s i s best prepared wel l done.
Serves: al l ow 6-8 oz. per servi ng
Cooki ng: 5-1 0 mi n utes
"We suggest that you use oil rather than pork lard if
you are unfamiliar with the taste. "
Avai l abl e i n most supermarkets
1 30
La Teresita
Tampa
BISTEC EMPANIZADO MI LNESA
1 C. spaghetti sauce (your favorite reci pe or a
prepared sauce such as Ragu)
Parmesan cheese to taste
2 eggs, raw
about % C. mi l k
1 pkg. Vi go fl avoring/col ori ng (or your favorite
brand)
4 thi nl y cut top butt steaks (same as for
pal omi l la)
bread crumbs
oi l for fryi ng
2 eggs, hard boi l ed
parsl ey, chopped
red pi mi ento, chopped
1 C. peas, cooked
Heat spaghett i sauce wi t h Parmesan cheese i n a
saucepan. Keep warm whi l e you prepare t he steaks.
Wi th a fork, beat raw eggs, mi l k, and Vi go f l avori ng!
col ori ng i n a bowl . Di p steaks i n bread crumbs, t hen
i n egg and mi l k mi xt ure, and agai n i n bread crumbs.
Pound steaks l i ght l y so t hat bread crumbs wi l l
adhere. Fry breaded steaks qu i ckl y, j ust a mi n ute or
so on each si de. Remove steaks to pl atter. Spread
heated spaghetti sauce over t he top. Garn i sh wi t h
crumbl ed hardboi l ed eggs, parsl ey, pi mi ent o, and
cooked peas.
Serves: 4
"This flavor combination is unique. Serve with a
tossed salad and spicy dressing and some crusty
Cuban bread. "
1 3 1
Mel
'
s Hot Dogs
Tampa
Anyone who' s ever eaten a kosher Vi enna hot dog i n
Chi cago knows what the real t hi ng i s. And you'l l recogn ize i t
i n no t i me fl at at Mel ' s Hot Dogs i n Tampa, because that' s
what i s served -kosher Vi enna hot dogs from Chi cago.
That's where owner Mel Lohn comes from hi msel f.
How he came to Tampa and l anded i n t he restaurant
busi ness i s a story i n i tsel f. I n the earl y 1970s Mel was a saxo
phone pl ayer wi t h a rock band t hat was touri ng i n t he Tampa
Bay area. When t hei r gi g was over, everyone ret urned to t he
Mi dwest except Mel , who stayed because he l oved the sun
shi ne. (Where have you heard that before . . ?) But because
no ot her restaurant served "red hots" (kosher Vi enna hot
dogs) i n Tampa, he di d the on l y t hi ng he could do and went
i nto the busi ness as Mel ' s Red Hot Ranch.
When al l hi s customers-whom he cal l s on a f i rst-name
basi s-cal l ed the pl ace, si mp l y, Mel ' s Hot Dogs, he too
adopted the name. Mou nted and framed on the wal l s of t he
restaurant are prai ses of the hot dog (whi ch he cl ai ms i s
superi or t o t he hambu rger) and recogni t i on for hi s own ef
forts on behal f of the wi ener. Browse around and ch uckl e at
1 32
t he cartoons and cari cat ures and pi t hy sayi ngs about
"dogs. " ( "Have a wi enerf ul day" i s typi cal . ) I t ' s great ent er
tai nment .
What makes Mel ' s hot dogs so succul ent i s t hei r nat ural
casi ng. Whol e beef cut s are st uffed i n si de by hand and t hen
sl owl y smoked. When you bi t e down, your teeth pi erce t hi s
casi ng and i t "pops. " You get a mout hfu l of wel l -seasoned
meat. Th i s i s consi derabl y di fferent from t he ordi nary ki nd of
ski nl ess hot dog made wi t h meat (not necessari l y beef) and
f i l l ers or extenders. I f you' ve never eaten a kosher-styl e
f ran k before, you' re i n for a t reat. Be sure to i nsi st on t he
bri ght green rel i sh f or a garni sh-i t ' s t he best we' ve tasted.
Act ual l y, even i f you have savored t hi s ki nd before, you' re
st i l l i n for a t reat because Mel ' s versi on has been decl ared
top dog in t he worl d by no l ess a connoi sseur than an ABC
news rep who prai sed Mel ' s whi l e touri ng i n Europe.
Di g i t, ( hot) dog l overs !
Directions: Mel's Hot Dogs is at 41 36 East Busch Boule
vard. Take the Busch Boulevard exit east from 1- 75 north or
south. Mel's is on the north side of the street. Busch
Gardens is about one mile west.
While you're here: The state's second most popular tourist
attraction next to Walt Disney World is The Dark Conti nent,
Busch Gardens. Besides the re-creation of yesterday's
Africa, don't miss the original tropical garden area,
cultivated on land that once was arid and barren. Nearby is
the park's Adventure I sl and for waterslide fun and other
water amusements for the whole family. Just another mile to
the north is the Uni versity of South Florida campus, which
celebrated its 25th anniversary in 1982. Major athletic events
and popular entertainment are offered at the University Sun
Dome. Just down the street from the main campus entrance
is the Museum of Science and I ndustry, with "hands-on ex
hibits for a/l ages.
1 33
Me/ 's Hot Dogs
Tampa
REL CHICAGO-STLE HOT DOG
1 pure beef nat ural casi ng hot dog (preferabl y
made by Vi enna Sausage Manufacturi ng
Company, Chi cago)
1 oversize rectangul ar-shaped poppy seed bun
yel low mustard
sweet Spani sh oni ons, di ced
bright green hot dog rel i sh (cal l ed "pi ccal i l l y" i n
the Mi dwest)
1 medi um cured kosher di l l pi ckl e, t hi nl y sl iced
cel ery sal t
sweet, ri pe tomato, thi nl y sl iced
water
Heat water i n saucepan to 1 90 F. Pl ace hot dog i n
heated water and cook unt i l i t ri ses t o t he t op, about
t wo and a hal f to t hree mi nutes depend i ng on
whether i t ' s frozen or al ready thawed. Then cook an
addi t i onal 30 seconds after i t has ri sen and remove
prompt l y. Pl ace i n f reshl y steamed * hot dog bun.
Spread wi t h mustard and on i ons t o taste, a l i ght
t oppi ng of rel i sh, t omato sl i ces, and a l i ght spri nkl i ng
of cel ery sal t . Top of f wi t h di l l sl i ces. Serve wi t h
f rench fri es and barrel -cured (not canned) sauerkraut ,
heated i f you l i ke.
Serves: 1
"Mel adds, tongue in cheek, 'Wrap in a dirty brown
bag & B # and enjoy!' Also, a Chicago-style hot dog is
never served with catsup. "
' Steamed buns are popu l ar i n Fl ori da; t ry t hem toasted as an al ternati ve.
1 34
MEL'S FRENCH FRIES
Me/'s Hot Dogs
Tampa
Grade A extra fancy Idaho potatoes, sl iced and
cut i n stri ps.
Pure Grade A vegetable shorteni ng or oi l
Heat oi l i n ski l l et to 375 F. I mmerse smal l amounts of
potatoes at a t i me for two and a hal f to t hree mi nutes
unt i l gol den brown . Remove and drai n . Sal t to taste.
Yi el ds: 1 potato per servi ng
Cooki ng: 5-1 0 mi nutes dependi ng on number of
servi ngs
"Mel adds, also tongue in cheek, 'No hot dog worth
its buns is ever served without French fries. ' "
1 35
Silver Ring Cafe
Ybor Ci (ampa)
Menti on Tampa to your fri ends and chances are the
symbol s t hey' l l t hi nk of fi rst wi l l be ci gars and Cuban
sandwi ches.
The two go hand i n hand, especi al l y i n Ybor Ci ty, cal l ed the
"cradl e of Cuban l i berty" by hi stori ans because of the rol e
Jos
e
Mart
i
pl ayed duri ng Cuba' s struggl e f or i ndependence
f rom Spai n. I n 1 886, fol l owi ng a recommendati on from a
col l eague from Key West, Vi cente Mart
i
nez Ybor establ i shed
a ci gar factory i n Tampa when l abor probl ems wi t h hi s Key
West pl ant became troubl esome. Duri ng the 1 890s, Mart
i
was
an outspoken and el oquent patri ot for the cause of Cuban
freedom. He was ki l l ed i n a ski rmi sh i n Dos R
l
os. The hi stori c
events of the t urn of the century-the Spani sh-Ameri can War,
t he cul mi nati on of Cuba' s f i ght for freedom, Ybor Ci ty' s
boom-town days and, l ater, stri kes i n the ci gar i ndustry-con
tri bute much to Tampa' s ri ch and col orful heri tage.
As l ate as the mi ddl e 1 900s, the st reets of Ybor Ci ty were
f i l l ed wi th stores that stayed open unt i l mi dni ght, dozens of
acti ve restaurants, and gi rl s hawki ng devi l ed crabs and hot
chestnuts.
1 36
So recal l s Angel o Cacci atore, owner of the Si l ver Ri ng Caf
e
si nce 1 936. "There was a l ot of act i on . . . it was real Lat i n-y, "
he remi ni sces, somet hi ng l i ke Li ttl e I tal y i n New York.
Even though the communi ty has l ost many of i ts former
resi dents due to urban pressures, the di stri ct i s u ndergoi ng a
peri od of urban renewal that shou l d fu l l y restore i ts vi tal i ty i n
a few years.
Si nce 1 936, Angel o and hi s staff have had the same menu,
si mpl e but consi stent. Stapl es are Cuban sandwi ches, Pan
can Mantequilla (Cuban bread and butter) , and Cuban coffee.
The sandwi ches are made fresh every day and are l oaded wi th
del i meats, cheese and pi ckl es. You can watch the meat
bei ng sl i ced and the sandwi ches bei ng prepared t hrough
di spl ay wi ndows streetsi de. Several thousand are made every
week. The onl y t i me busi ness ever sl ows down is at cl osi ng.
I t ' s no surpri se that t he Si l ver Ri ng Caf
e
was a wi nner i n the
Tampa Tribune's Best Cuban Sandwi ch Contest and has
been a fi nal i st every year the compet i t i on has been hel d.
Angel o i nsi sts that he gets the best bread and meat i n town
from the Casi no Bakery and Four Star Meat Products,
respecti vel y. They've been suppl yi ng hi m for years.
By the way, i f you' re a basebal l or a boxi ng fan, Angel o wi l l
have pl enty of memori es t o share. He' s personal l y been t o 25
Worl d Seri es games.
The Si l ver Ri ng Caf
e
woul d certai nl y be a maj or l eague
contender i n a Worl d Seri es contest for Cuban sandwi ches!
Directions: The Silver Ring Cafe is at 1831 East 7th Avenue.
From /4 take the 22nd Street exit south. Tur right (west on
7th Avenue to address. The cate is on the south side of the
street.
While you're here: Historic Ybor City is full of markers com
memorating its exciting past. V. M. Ybor's original cigar fac
tory is now Ybor Square, a shopping and dining complex
which includes fine antique and gift boutiques. With wrought
iron grill work an integral part of their architectural design,
social clubs for several different ethnic groups dot the
streets. The Ferlita Bakery now houses the Ybor Ci ty State
Museum, containing the original 1896 ovens for baking
Cuban bread and displays tracing the history of the town 's
cigar industry.
1 37
Silver Ring Cate
Ybor City (Tampa)
CUBAN SANDWICH
1 loaf Cuban bread
1 l b. smoked ham, sl iced thi n
1 l b. roast pork, sl iced thi n
% l b. salami , sl iced thi n
% l b. Swiss cheese, sl iced thi n and cut i nto
1 %-i nch stri ps
pi ckl e sl ices
l ettuce and tomatoes (sl i ced), opti onal
mustard and mayonnaise to taste
Cut bread i nto quarters, about a foot l ong each. Sl i ce
open and pl ace descendi ng amou nts of ham, pork and
sal ami i n l ayers al ong one hal f of bread. Spread two
stri ps of Swi ss cheese al ong l ength of sandwi ch and
add pi ckl e sl i ces. Add l ett uce and tomato i f desi red.
Spread both si des of bread wi t h mustard and
mayonnai se to taste, and cl ose sandwi ch. Warm for a
mi nute to a mi nute and a hal f to get the outsi de of
t he bread ni ce and toasty, if you want.
Serves: 4
"Angelo makes two kinds of Cuban sandwiches: a
regular one, which he serves with lettuce and tomato,
and a special one, which he makes without lettuce
and tomato but loaded up with three-quarters of a
pound of meat. The loaves of bread are light as a
result of more shortening being used during the
baking process. "
1 38
P
aul
'
s Shrimp
Tarpon Springs
What the conch i s to Key West, the sponge is to Tarpon
Spri ngs. At l east, that' s true i n terms of a l ocal symbol . But
spongi ng i s more a matter of hi story now i n thi s smal l , most l y
Greek communi ty i n northern Pi nel l as County.
Some of that hi story i s preserved i n the decor of Paul 's,
famous l ocal l y for boi l ed shri mp si nce 1 966. The ori gi nal
restaurant , a cou pl e of doors down from the present enl arged
l ocati on, featured al most l i fe-si zed mural s of some of the
fol ks i n town engaged i n t radi ti onal Greek customs. Pai nted
wi th compassi onate expressi ons, they' re danCi ng at a glendi
(festi val ) and st i rri ng a pot of Kavruma (a sort of meat stew)
for the sponge di vers to take on the boat. A map of "The Land
of the I ncred i bl e Greeks" pi npoi nts whi ch i sl and each of the
owners and hi s compatri ots hai l ed from.
New mural s l i ven the warm wood wal l s of the new Paul ' s,
whi ch Steve Tsal i cki s and hi s fami l y have owned si nce 1 979.
Some of t hei r fami l y were i n the ori gi nal pai nt i ngs, whi ch you
can st i l l see i f you ask them to poi nt them out to you.
Daughter Tu l a cul l ed t hrough magazi nes and pri vate col l ec
ti ons to f i nd photos of Tarpon Spri ngs communi ty events
from the 1 920s t hrough 1 940s to become part of the counter
decor at the bar.
1 39
But i t ' s the boi l ed shri mp that Paul ' s is best known for.
Order by the pound (about 25 to 30 shri mp per pound), and
your pl ate wi l l be served i n the mi ddl e of the tabl e, Greek
styl e. Wi t h everyone at the tabl e shari ng, there won' t be
anyt hi ng wasted. Wi th the succul ent f l avor of the shri mp
enhanced by l emon j u i ce and a touch of oregano, i t ' s hard to
i magi ne that t here woul d be any waste anyway. Li ght l y fri ed
smel ts are al so popul ar, and i t' s not uncommon for total
strangers to become fri ends easi l y by passi ng t hei r pl ates to
nearby tabl es for sampl es . .
The menu i sn' t extensi ve at t hi s restau rant. I t' s not Greek
i n that you won' t f i nd Pastitsio or Moussaka, for exampl e,
both typi cal favori tes. But it is Greek i n the use of l emon
j ui ce, ol i ve oi l , and oregano for del i caci es such as octopus.
The same combi nat i on i s l i kewi se a del i ght wi t h a conch
sal ad that measures up to i ts Key West ori gi nator.
I t shou l d be no surpri se t hat Pau l ' s i s popul ar not onl y
among townsfol k but al so wi t h I tal i an customers, who i den
t i fy wi t h t he count ry' s Medi terranean l ocat i on, and wi t h
regul ars f rom around t he Tampa Bay area, who became
fami l i ar wi th the restaurant after several newspaper revi ews.
The expanded bui l di ng has hel ped take care of some of the
l i nes, but you shoul d know t hat even when the eatery f i rst
opened wi t h onl y 1 0 tabl es and served onl y shri mp, peopl e
wou l d wai t t wo to th ree hou rs j ust f or a pound of shri mp.
They woul d wri te out t hei r own checks at t he bar.
You j ust can' t keep a good t hi ng down.
Directions: Paul 's Shrimp is a t 514 Athens Street. From U.S.
19, tur west on SR 582 (Tarpon Avenue) and north to where
it intersects with Alterate 19 (Pinellas Avenue). Tur left
(west) about three-quarters of a mile further at Dodecanese
Boulevard, as if you were going to the Sponge Docks, then
left again in three blocks on Athens Street. Paul's is on the
east side of the road.
1 40
While you're here: The Tarpon Spri ngs Sponge Exchange
and Docks are within walking distance. They're a colorful
way to relive the excitement of what used to be a major in
dustry until a blight during the 1940s reduced the growth of
sponges. The Uni versal i st Church features paintings by
George Inness, Jr. , son of the famous 19th-century artist. If
you 're in town on January 6, watch the Epi phany Cel ebra
ti on. Young men dive into the water, whatever its tempera
ture, vying to retrieve a golden cross for good luck the rest
of the year.
NOTES
1 41
Paul 's
Tarpon Springs
HORTI KI SALTA (Greek Peasan Salad)
1 6 sl ices feta cheese, 2 inches l ong
8-1 6 anchovies, whol e or cut up
2-3 tomatoes, cut i n chunks
1 large oni on, sl i ced
1 large cucumber peeled, cut lengthwi se, and
halved
2 handful s bl ack ol ives
1 green pepper, sl i ced in ri ngs
2 handful s hot Greek peppers
ol ive oi l
vi negar
oregano
Arrange al l i ngredi ents i n al ternat i ng order on pl ates,
start i ng wi t h the feta. Beat together 3 parts oi l to 1
part vi negar and pour over sal ad. Spri nkl e wi t h
oregano.
Serves: 4
"This is the true Greek salad without the lettuce that
is called for in the Americanized version. "
1 42
PICKLED OCTOPUS
(Al l ow t i me to mari nate overni ght)
5 I bs. octopus
vi negar
water
1 C. cooki ng oi l
% C. l emon jui ce
1 % C. vi negar
oregano
fresh garl i c, mi nced
Paul's
Tarpon Springs
Tenderi ze octopus by boi l i ng i n water wi th a l i t t l e
sal t and vi negar. When ski n i s soft (about 30 t o
45 mi nutes) remove from water and cool . Cl ean ski n
and remove sl i me. Cut octopus i n smal l pi eces. Pl ace
i n a bowl wi th oi l , l emon j ui ce, and vi negar maki ng
sure t hat t here are enough j u i ces t o cover meat . Add
a little oregano and garl i c. Cover and mari nate at
l east 2 hours or overn i ght . Best when served t he next
day.
Serves: 10
Preparat i on: about 1 hour ( pl us t i me to mari nat e)
Cooki ng: 30-45 mi n utes
"Serve as an appetizer or buffet dish for a crowd.
You'll be a hit ! "
1 43
Paul 's
Tarpon Springs
BROILED OCOPUS
5 I bs. octopus (al l ow 6-8 oz. per serving)
salt
water
vi negar
cooki ng oi l
l emon j ui ce
l ettuce, tomato sl i ce, green pepper ri ng, ol ives,
l emon wedge to garni sh each servi ng
Boi l octopus, as for pi ckl ed octopus (page 1 43). After
cl ean i ng, ref ri gerate and use as needed. Cut octopu s
i nto l arge chu nks. Cover bottom of broi l er pan wi t h a
t hi n f i l m of cooki ng oi l . Spri nkl e octopus wi t h l emon
j u i ce and pl ace i n pan wi t h a l i tt l e water. Broi l unt i l
brown on each si de, about 3-5 mi n utes. Add a l i ttl e
more l emon j u i ce to the pan j u i ces and serve over
t he oct opus. Garni sh each servi ng wi t h l ettuce,
tomato sl i ces, green pepper ri ngs, ol i ves, and l emon
wedges.
Serves: 1 0- 1 2
Preparat i on: about 1 hour
"This may be different, but be sure to try it. You're in
for a nice surprise! "
1 44
CONCH SALD
(Al l ow t i me to mari nate overni g ht)
1 l b. raw conch meat, fresh or frozen
Paul 's
Tarpon Springs
% bunch scal l i ons (both green and whi te part s),
chopped
% medi um oni on, chopped
1 medi um tomato, chopped
% bel l pepper, chopped
% stal k cel ery, chopped
5 oz. oi l
4 oz. vi negar
5 oz. l emon j ui ce (about 3 l emons)
dash black pepper
oregano for garni sh
Pound conch meat for 1 0-1 5 mi nutes to t enderi ze i t.
Cut i nto %-i nch pi eces. Pl ace i n gl ass or pottery
bowl . Add chopped vegetabl es,
O
i l , vi negar, l emon
j u i ce, and bl ack pepper. Mi x wel l . Taste for
seasoni ng. Mari nate overni ght or for at l east 8 hours.
Serve on a col orf ul pl ate. Spri nkl e oregano to taste
on top.
Serves: 4-6
Preparat i on: 20 mi n utes (p l us mari nat i ng overni ght)
"This make-ahead dish is an elegant first course.
Serve it on a bed of lettuce with a parsley garnish. It
will make a conch-lover out of you! "
1 45
Te Chatawav
St. Petersburg
Years before the Sunshi ne Skyway Bri dge l i nked St.
Petersburg wi th Manatee County, t here was the Chattaway
Dri ve-I n , a gen u i ne dri ve- i n t hat served onl y beer and wi ne.
The l i tt l e yel l ow wooden bui l di ng housed a grocery store, a
gas stati on, and a t rol l ey stop. When Hel en Lund bought it i n
1 950, she expanded i t i nto a f ul l -f l edged restaurant wi thout
changi ng the exteri or. Si nce then i t ' s become a l ocal hi stori
cal l andmark i n a most pi ct uresque sett i ng.
The Coast Guard Stati on and t he Army Reserve were
much more act i ve i n St. Petersburg i n the 1 950s, and thei r
personnel kept The Chattaway busy. Al ong came the pas
sengers taki ng the ferry to Pal metto and the workmen who
bu i l t the Skyway. That' s when Hel en began to prepare meal s
i n earnest, t o meet the constructi on workers' demands for
"take-away" food.
Hel en had no previ ous restaurant experi ence. " I used to
work f or Western Uni on pou ndi ng a typewri ter, " she remi
n i sces. But she did entertai n a l ot at home, and every ni ght
she woul d t hi nk of somet hi ng uni que to prepare.
1 46
Al t hough it began wi t h j ust a fri ed chi cken and hamburger
men u (The Chattaway i s st i l l famous for i ts "Chattaburger"),
the restaurant now feat u res di fferent dai l y speci al s as wel l .
The restaurant' s ambi ance perfect l y fi ts t he i mage of an
earl i er St . Petersburg. Bi te i nto your burger u nder a gracefu l
j acaranda t ree shadi ng you r a l fresco pi cni c tabl e. You' l l feel
beachy at the shaded counter and bar. You' l l feel Southern
count ry nostal gi c on the encl osed verandah or i n the rusti c
ol d-t i me i ndoor di n i ng room t hat has one of onl y two tabl e
top shuffl eboard games l eft i n the ci ty. Wal l s are decorated
wi th Engl i sh-born daughter- i n- l aw J i l l ' s col l ecti ons from
Bri ti sh travel s-i l l ustrat i ons of famous bui l di ngs, souveni rs
of the Royal Weddi ng, and pl ates from wherever.
You' l l di scover the "Other Fl ori da" at The Chattaway i n i ts
very casual charm.
Directions: The Chattaway is at 358 22nd Avenue South.
From 1-275 head east at the 22nd Avenue South exit. The
Chattaway is at the intersection of 22nd Avenue and 4th
Street South, on the southeast corer. It's just across from
the St. Petersburg Tennis Club, where Chris Evert-Lloyd and
other famous tennis stars have trained.
While you're here: The restaurant is across the street from
Lake Maggi ore, a popular sit for relaxing and boat racing.
The Boyd Hi l l Nature Trail is adjacent. Within minutes is the
Salvador Dal i Museum, adjacent to the St. Petersburg cam
pus of the Uni versi ty of South Florida. The Oali Museum
periodically rotates paintings and obj ets d'art from its
collection. It's a major addition to the roster of fine arts
resources in the Tampa Bay area. Bartlett Park, just across
the street from The Chattaway, has an excellent tennis club,
open to the public for a small fee.
1 47
The Chattaway
St. Petersburg
QUICK BARBECUE SAUCE
% medi um oni on, chopped
% green pepper, chopped
% cl ove garl ic, mi nced
2 T. margarine
1 qt. catsup
1 T. chi l i powder
% t. Tabasco sauce
% C. vi negar
% C. sugar
% C. Worcestershi re sauce
dash fresh pepper (or to taste)
Saute oni on, g reen pepper, and garl i c i n margari ne.
Add cat sup and other i ngredi ent s. Mi x wel l and
si mmer 15 mi nutes. Keep ref ri gerated i n a t i ght l y
covered contai ner-f l avor gets better as you store.
Yi el ds: a l i t t l e more than a quart
Cooki n g: 1 5 mi nutes
IIHe/en Lund, The Chattaway's wellknown owner,
says that her customers adore this sauce. We
strongly agree with her guests. Use for beef, pork, or
chicken, or use your imagination.
II
1 48
AMERICAN SAUERBRATEN
5 I bs. bonel ess chuck
cooki ng oi l for browni ng
sal t
1 l arge oni on, cut i n chunks
2 C. vi negar
1 C. water
20 gi ngersnaps (more, i f desi red)
The Chattaway
St. Petersburg
Brown meat on al l si des. Add sal t to taste and
oni ons. Af t er browni ng, add vi negar and water.
Cont i n ue to add water unt i l meat i s done. Remove
meat f rom sauce. Take 20 or more g i ngersnaps,
soften wi t h water, and add to gravy to t hi cken.
Si mmer 3 to 4 hours.
Serves: 1 0- 1 2
Cooki ng: 4 hours
"Try to make this in advance so that you can skim
off the fat and then reheat the meat in the gravy.
You'll enjoy this easy recipe with its continental
taste. "
1 49
M
L
0
O
D
Jack
'
s Skay Restauran
St. Petersburg
The Navy di dn' t real i ze the speci al ized knowl edge it was
pl aci ng i n t he hands of Jack Thomas when he was a mess
cook years back. Si nce t hat t i me, al t hough he graduated
from t he Uni versi ty of Fl ori da and pursued a successf ul
career as an engi neer wi t h t he Tampa El ectri c Company,
Jack has never forgotten the standard Navy rec i pes and
menus . . . wi t h, of course, hi s own cul i nary i mprovements.
Jack' s Skyway opened after a rel at i ve t urned J ack on to
O' Nei l l ' s Skyway Boat Basi n. Jack purchased O' Nei l l ' s i n
1 976 and renamed i t Jack' s Skyway Restaurant. Si nce t hen
he' s capt ured di st i ngui shed f i shermen, Canadi ans and even
the London press, and j ust about everyone who' s stopped i n
ever si nce.
Jack and hi s wi fe, Carol , conti nue to create exci t i ng reci
pes. Thei r cl assi cs are based on what Jack l earned about
cooki ng eggs i n t he servi ce and feat ure an assort ment of
omel ets, breakfast del i ghts, and t he best chi l i . What he
l abel s "Jack' s S. O. S. " i s a tantal i zi ng creamed sausage (use
the extra hot) on a bi scui t , not l i ke what you mi ght remember
i f you were i n t he servi ce. Thi s cul i nary entrepreneur i s
1 5 1
famous, too, for hi s pecan waffl es, banana pancakes, home
made bi scu i ts, and home-fri ed potatoes (great ! ) .
I t' s easy t o see why Jack' s Skyway has become a Fl ori da
t radi t i on. Though the restaurant seats onl y about 50 peopl e,
Jack i s l i kel y to serve about 1 , 000 bi scui t s a week, 2, 500
eggs, 4, 000 cups of coffee, 45 pounds of bacon, 1 00 pou nds
of sausage, and 400 pounds of potatoes. Hey, t hat ai n 't
small potatoes !
Part of the experi ence of di ni ng at Jack' s i s the nauti cal
decor re-creat i ng a shi p' s porthol es and l i f e preservers.
Jack wel comes you wi th a bi g gri n . He' l l chat a whi l e and
enj oy your company !
Directions: Jack's Skyway Restaurant is at 6701 34th Street
South. Take 1-275 south as far as you can and follow signs to
U. S. 19 to Bradenton when you exit. U.S. 1 9 is 34th Street;
just follow it to the north end of the Sunshine Skyway.
Jack's is just north of the toll plaza, on the west side of the
street. Or, coming from Bradenton, follow U. S. 19 north, past
the Skyway to the restaurant.
While you're here: The St. Petersburg Hi storical Museum
(Htas Museum) re-creates the city's past and displays fur
nishings and items from old pioneer families. Also nearby is
one of Pinellas County's most popular outdoor recreation
areas, Fort DeSoto Park. The beach, picnic areas, and
fishing are among the most pleasant in the area.
1 52
Jack's Skyway Restaurant
St. Petersburg
BAKED BENS "OLD NAW BREKFAST
1 46oz. can of pork and beans, your favorite brand
% C. catsup
% C. water
" C. brown sugar
2 t. Worcestershi re sauce
4 t. prepared mustard (Gul den's is good)
% C. mi nced oni on, fresh
3 strips smoked bacon or bl anched sal t pork,
uncooked, cut i nto bi tesize pi eces
Mi x al l i ngredi ents wel l and pl ace i n a shal l ow di sh
or pan. Bake uncovered f or 45 mi n utes at 325 o f.
Serve wi t h corn muf f i ns and pre-cooked smoked
sausage, about 1 - 1 % i nches i n di ameter (fri ed for best
resul ts).
Serves: 6-8
Preparat i on: 5-8 mi n utes
"These beans are good day and night. "
1 53
St. Petersburg
FISHERMAN' S CHOWDER
1 46oz. can of cl am chowder
2 cans whol e mi l k (use 46oz. chowder can to
measure)
1 qt. chowder mix * (see below), thawed
7 cup cornstarch, di ssol ved in some of the above
mi l k
1 t . whi te pepper
1 T. sal t
1 T. MSG (monosodi um gl utamate)
butter
Gent l y and t horoughl y combi ne al l i ngredi ent s. Cook
i n a doubl e-boi l er or i n a l arge pot over l ow heat for
about 1 hour. St i r frequent l y. Serve wi t h a dol l op of
butter on top of each servi ng.
Yi el ds: 1 2- 1 4 bowl s
Cooki ng: 1 hour
* CHOWDER MI X
1 C. water chestnuts, sl i ced in % i nch pi eces
(reserve l i qui d)
% C. cl ams, chopped in % i nch pi eces
1 C. raw bonel ess fi sh, cut in % i nch pi eces
1 % C. canned yel l ow corn, undrai ned
1 54
St. Petersburg
Combi ne al l i ngred i ent s. I f you are freezi ng for l ater
use, make sure sol i ds are covered wi th l i qui d from
corn and chest nut s.
Yi el ds: 1 quart (can be made i n l arger quant i t i es
and frozen)
"Jack suggests slicing the chestnuts by hand
instead of with a food processor. The difference in
texture is worth the extra elbow grease. "
NOTES
1 55
Doe-AI Counr Cookin
'
South Pasadena
You real l y can 't compare Southern cooki ng wi th "sou l
food" at Doe-AI Cou nt ry Cooki n' . As owner Doretha Bacon
expl ai ns, "The ' Southern' refers to the area, usi ng Southern
grown vegetabl es put together i n a Sout hern way. My ver
si on of ' soul food' i s a reci pe you can do anywhere. I t' s what
a person feel s. It stems from not usi n' (wri tten) reci pes but
cooki n' f rom t he i nsi de. Just a dash of t hi s and a dash of
that . . . .
Mrs. Bacon' s versi on of popul ar Southern di shes comes
f rom her own experi ence. A nat i ve of St. Petersburg, she
went to school i n New York and then became a d i et i ci an for
a l arge hospi tal and nursi ng home. When her h usband was
i n the servi ce, they t ravel ed f requentl y and sampl ed food at
restaurants everywhere, part i cul arl y i n the South. Doret ha
was a pro at taki ng food backstage at theaters where her
brothers, who were professi onal j azz musi ci ans, performed.
She deci ded to enter the restaurant busi ness because she
l oved sal es and peopl e contact. Doret ha opened the f i rst
Doe-AI Count ry Ki tchen in south st. Petersburg in 1 969.
Soon after, the name was changed to Doe-AI Count ry
1 56
Cooki n' . Now two restaurants are operat i ng; one i n South
Pasadena and another i n north St. Petersburg .
Barbecue was the ori gi nal speci al ty. I n addi t i on to the
barbecue, the Doe-AI now features a fami l y-styl e menu, wi th
Southern Fri ed Chi cken , Brunswi ck Stew, Caj un Ri ce,
Bl ack-Eyed Peas, and many ot her regi onal favori tes. Whi l e
the l unch menu i s pri nted, the di nner menu i s scri bbl ed by
hand, on a paper bag no l ess, to accommodate day-to-day
changes. Corn Meal Muffi ns accompany most orders, or you
can order ext ras. They' re served pi pi ng hot, wi t h a l arge
dol l op of butter on the si de. I t ' s tough to eat j ust one !
Doret ha rarel y sl ows down except for an annual vacat i on.
Duri ng t he hol i day season , she mai ntai ns a hecti c pace
from supervi si ng the baki ng of 200 pi es a week to addi ng
f i ni shi ng touches on newl y made curtai ns.
Bri ng t he fami l y to enj oy a tasty home-cooked meal
prepared wi t h l ots of warmt h. Servi ngs are as generous as
the hospi tal i ty, and you' l l get a whol esome l u nch or di n ner
for l ess t han you' d pay at fast food pl aces. And don' t forget
to sampl e the ki ng-si ze chocol ate chi p and oat meal cooki es.
They' re a fi nd you won' t forget.
Directions: There are two locations. Doe-AI Country Cookin '
is at 1480 Pasadena Avenue South in St. Petersburg, From
1-275 in St. Petersburg, turn west at the 22nd Avenue South
exit. 22nd Avenue becomes Gulfport Boulevard, which you
will follow along the Pasadena Golf Course until it inter
sects with Pasadena Avenue. Tur left to address; the Doe
AI is across the street from the Palms of Pasadena Hospital.
Or, from U. S. 19 north or south, tur west at 22nd Avenue
South and follow same directions.
Doe-AI Country Cookin 's second location is at 1 126 62nd
Avenue North in St. Petersburg. From 1-275 South, take the
54th Avenue North exit and head east to 1 6th Street. Tur
north on 16th Street, then east onto 62nd Avenue to address.
While you're here: Less than a half-hour drive north is
Heritage Park, in Largo. Several of Pinellas County's oldest
buildings have been preserved in a wooded setting, and
docents give tours explaining the lifestyle of families that
settled the area i n the 1800s. Some of the old-fashioned kit
chen utensils in the "Seven Gables " house are particularly
interesting.
1 5 7
Doe-AI Country Cookin '
South Pasadena and St. Petersburg
CAUN RICE
( Prepare ri ce ahead)
6 C. hot cooked rice (Uncl e Ben' s or your favorite
brand)
% C. bacon fat or vegetabl e oi l
1 l arge oni on, chopped
3 ribs cel ery, chopped
1 l arge green pepper, chopped
% C. parsl ey, chopped
1 % I bs. sausage meat, ground (sweet, if avai l able)
% l b. chi cken gizzards, cooked, chopped
2 chi cken boui l l on cubes
% C. water
% t. red pepper
% t. garl i c powder
% t. powdered thyme
1 t. salt
Saute vegetabl es i n bacon fat unt i l cl ear, about
1 0 mi nutes. Add sausage meat and chi cken gi zzards
t o vegetabl es by "choppi ng i n" t he meat. Cont i nue to
cook. Di ssol ve boui l l on cubes i n water and add to
meat and vegetabl es. Add seasoni ngs and si mmer
1 0 mi nutes. Add to hot, cooked ri ce. Toss or mi x wel l
and serve.
1 58
Doe-AI Country Cookin'
Serves: 8- 1 0
Preparat i on: Ri ce-20-30 mi nut es. Mi xt ure-
1 0 mi n utes ( Mrs. Bacon recommends
choppi ng vegetabl es by hand rat her
t han i n a food processor to preserve
t he r i ght text ure)
"By cooking the rice separate from the seasonings
mixture, the Cajun Rice dish retains a nice texture.
For best results, prepare the rice loose and dry,
rather than too moist or sticky. Be careful not to use
too much garlic, so it won't spoil quickly. "
-NOTES-
1 59
Doe-AI Country Cookin '
FRI ED SUMMER SQUASH CASSEROLE
l b. bacon, chopped
4 I bs. yel l ow squash, sl iced
2 large oni ons, sl iced
t. salt
t. pepper
1 T. sugar
Fry bacon . Do not drai n fat. Add sl i ced squash and
oni ons and saut
e
. Mi x seasoni ngs toget her and
spri nkl e evenl y over vegetabl es i n pan. Cont i nue to
cook over medi um heat, st i rr i ng constant l y wi t h a
fork, about 1 5 to 1 8 mi nutes. Be caref ul not to break
up vegetabl es so as to l ose text ure.
Serves: 6-8
"You won't have to add any liquid to this dish-the
moisture comes from the squash and onions. A
constant stirring will prevent pieces of the
vegetables from sticking to the pan.
II
1 60
Doe-AI Country Cookin
SOUHERN FRI ED CHICKEN
1 3-l b. fryer, cut in 6-8 pieces
salt and coarse black pepper to taste
2 C. sel f ri si ng fl our
1 C. buttermi l k
vegetabl e shorteni ng
Season fryer wi t h sal t and coarse bl ack pepper to
taste. Let stand 3 hours. To bread, di p i ndi vi dual
pi eces f i rst i n f l our, t hen i n buttermi l k, t hen back i n
fl our. Fry covered , at 350 F. , i n heavy ski l l et wi t h
enough vegetabl e shorteni ng t o cover ch i cken pi eces
about hal f way up. Turn cont i nual l y unt i l done, about
1 5 to 20 mi n utes.
Serves: 4
Preparat i on: 1 0 mi n utes pl us 3 hours to stand
"Covering the skillet creates steam and moisture to
make this fried chicken just right. Thank you
Mr. & Mrs. Bacon. "
1 6 1
Ted
P
eters Famous Smoked Fish
South Pasadena
Smoked mul l et and mackerel are the speci al ti es at Ted
Peters Famous Smoked Fi sh, yet i t ' s been sai d t hat t hi s
l ocal l andmark cou l d keep a rol l i cki ng busi ness goi ng j ust
wi th hamburgers, even if the suppl y of f i sh were to dry up.
Ted had been i n t he smoked f i sh busi ness and opened a
f i sh house after Worl d War l i on St. Petersburg Beach. Not
l ong after, he ran the Carol i na I nn, formerl y l ocated next
door to where the restaurant now stands. He asked hi s hal f
brother, El ry Lat hrop, to manage the busi ness duri ng sum
mer break. El ry was studyi ng accou nt i ng i n col l ege and ran
the show hi msel f whi l e Ted travel ed around the count ry.
They became partners and opened the restaurant i n 1 950,
worki ng together for about 1 0 years and t hen taki ng t urns,
every ot her month, f or the next 1 4 years. Ted' s now ret i red,
and El ry and hi s son Mi ke are conti n u i ng the boomi ng
busi ness.
Every year they smoke about 1 35,000 pou nds of fi sh i n the
l i ttl e smokehouse next to the restaurant bui l di ng. They use
nat i ve red oak to smoke and f l avor the fi sh, whi ch i s pl aced
on racks over a smoul deri ng f i re and cooked for f our to si x
1 62
hours. The meat of t he mul l et has a nut- l i ke f l avor, and t he
nat ural oi l between t he ski n and t he meat hel ps to cook t he
fi sh sl owl y and keep i t from dryi ng out . Mackerel al so has a
hi gh oi l content but t he ski n i s not so t hi ck as wi t h mul l et.
You can savor the smoked fi sh on the premi ses, at the shaded
counter or at a pi cni c tabl e or i nsi de i n t he cozy di n i ng room
(t he fi repl ace keeps i t warm i n t he wi nter), or you can take
some home. Don' t be surpri sed i f seagul l s keep you com
pany when you di ne outsi de.
The menu i s del i beratel y l i mi ted because, as Mi ke says,
t hey want to mai ntai n hi gh q ual i ty wi t h j ust a few fami l i ar
i tems. That keeps a good turnover rate at t he tabl es, whi ch
means t hat many more peopl e can enj oy t he food.
One other speci al ty i s potato sal ad, whi ch arrived on the
menu al most by acci dent. Mi ke' s grandmot her, Mat i l da
Lat hrop, had been handl i ng the ki tchen for years. One day, a
l arge group made a reservat i on, and she si mpl y refused, fl at
out, to make French fri es for so many. I ndependent character
that she was, she sai d, "I know what I ' l l do. I ' l l make German
potato sal ad ! " And she drew on what she had l earned whi l e
l i vi ng i n Germany as a chi l d. The resul t i ng potato sal ad i s now
another famous menu i tem.
I f you l i ve i n town, bri ng your out-of-state fri ends and
rel at i ves. I f you are from out of town, you' l l probabl y ret urn
home wi t h new fri ends.
Directions: Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish is at 1350
Pasadena Avenue South. From 1-275 in St. Petersburg, tur
west at the 22nd Avenue South exit. 22nd Avenue becomes
Gulfport Boulevard, which you will follow along the Pasa
dena Golf Course (home of the Orange Blossom Classic) un
til it intersects with Pasadena Avenue. Tur left to address.
Ted Peters is on the east side of the street. Or, from U. S. 19
north or south, turn west at 22nd Avenue South and follow
same directions.
While you're here: Stay on Pasadena Avenue and cross the
causeway to SI- Petersburg and Pass-a- Gri l l e Beaches to
soak in the sun. Take Pasadena A venue back the other direc
tion and visit the pl anetari um and observatory at SI- Peters
burg Juni or Col l ege. Several programs are offered from
Labor Day through mid-May. Park Street, a scenic residential
drive, is nearby.
1 63
Ted Peters Smoked Fish
St. Petersburg
SMOKED FISH SPRED
2 C. fi nel y diced oni on
1 C. fi nel y di ced cel ery
1 % C. sweet rel i sh wi th pi mi ento
1 % qts. Kraft Mi racl e Whi p Sal ad Dressi ng
3% qts. fl aked smoked fi sh (boned), mul l et
preferred
Mi x i ngredi ent s wel l . Chi l l . Best if served i n
2 t o 3 days.
Serves: a party
"It's so good you could eat a whole gal/on yourself. "
1 64
Hampon
'
s
Tel l somebody somet hi ng often enough, and after a whi l e
they' l l bel i eve you , especi al l y i f i t ' s true.
That ' s what happened to earn Hampton' s the ri ght to say
on the men u , "Worl d' s Best Chi cken. " So many customers
gave it t hat l abel t hat Joan and Jack Phi l l i ps deci ded to
adopt i t as t hei r sl ogan i n the 1 970s. They' ve been del i veri ng
on that promi se ever si nce, and today owners Gary and Barry
Moore are cont i nu i ng the tradi t i on, servi ng excel l ent fri ed
chi cken.
Joan says i t ' s not the reci pe that' s so speci al but the
method of cooki ng. They use a hi gh- pressu re broaster that' s
so l arge i t won' t fi t i n the typi cal home pantry. I t creates 350
pou nds of pressure and requi res qu i te a bi t of know-how
both to operate and to take apart and cl ean , Joan expl ai ns.
Maybe a uni t l i ke a Wearever wou l d work at home, some
t hi ng that seal s the j u i ces i n, but i t j ust wou l dn' t be the
same as at Hampton' s . . . .
At any rate, Jack was the restaurant' s very f i rst chi cken
cook. You can t el l t hat chi cken i s the heart and soul of t hi s
restaurant not onl y from t he food i tsel f and t he popu l ari ty of
1 65
the take-out wi ndow, but al so f rom the col l ect i on of chi cken
statues and memorabi l i a. The oversi ze chi cken near t he
f ront ent rance was made j ust f or them. They' ve even
mou nted it on a dune buggy to ri de i n Chri st mas parades on
the beach.
I f you want to know t he secret of al l t hose f ul l -bodi ed
f l avors i n Hampton' s reci pes, heed Joan' s advi ce: save
everythi ng. Keep a bi g jar to f i l l u p i n the refri gerator, and
save l eftover vegetabl es for soup. When you cook meat,
save the dr i ppi ngs and use them as a base for sauces and
gravy. Cal l i t " Ma' s Kett l e" and don' t t hrow anyt hi ng away.
Throw i n a heal t hy dose of Accent and very l i ttl e sal t. You' l l
get more mi l eage out of your food dol l ar for del i ci ous
casserol es and stews. ( Be sure to boi l t he accumul ated
f l avori ngs before re- use and to use them wi t hi n j ust a few
days. )
Good val ue i s what' s kept peopl e comi ng back to
"mama' s house" year after year, says Joan . There are stu
dents from Embry Ri ddl e Aeronauti cal Uni versi ty, race crew
members, seni or ci t i zens, and muni ci pal workers. Even
pat i ents who' ve been i n the hospi tal seem to start t hei r
recovery di ets here.
Hampton' s i s al so known for i ts foot- l ong hot dogs, " l i ke
you grew up on. " Don' t be ch i cken . . . t ry one!
Directions: Hampton's is at 1 1 1 6 Mason Avenue. From U. S.
92 (Volusia Avenue) heading east, tur north on Clyde Morris
Boulevard, past the hospitals to Mason Avenue. Turn east
on Mason to address, on the north side of the street.
1 66
While you're here: Go for a ride on the Beach. ("00 not pass
Go, do not collect $200 . . . . ") It's the key to what first made
Daytona famous. Of course, if you're in town during any of
the race weeks, you'll spend your time at the Daytona Inter
national Speedway, rubbing elbows with greats like Richard
Petty and A. J. Foyt in local grub and beer centers. From a
quiet, mellow spirit the rest of the year, these same spots
take on a totally different character when thousands of
students pour into town for Spring Break. Off-season visit
the home of Mary McLeod Bethune, well-known black
educator and founder of what eventually became Bethune
Cookman College. About a half-hour's ride north of Daytona
Beach near Flagler Beach are the Bul ow Pl antation Rui ns,
once a magnificent and prosperous enterprise until its
destruction in 1836 during the Second Seminole War.
NOTES
1 67
Hampton 's
Daytona Beach
MOIST CHICKEN LIVERS
1 l b. chi cken l ivers, washed and patted dry (al l ow
6-8 oz. per servi ng)
oi l for deep fryi ng
commerci al breadi ng mi x or fl our to whi ch
Accent has been added
2 medi um oni ons, chopped
gravy mi x
butter
Di p l i vers i n breadi ng or f l our and deep fry as i f
prepari ng fri ed chi cken. Set asi de. Saut
e
oni ons i n
some butter and st i r i nto gravy mi x. Pou r mi xt ure
over l i vers and l et si t for 1 5 mi n utes. Next saut
e
l i vers i n butter or oi l unt i l warmed.
Serves: 2-4
Cooki ng: about 5 mi nutes each for fryi ng and
saut
e
i ng
"Chicken livers cooked this way are tender and
delicious. Serve with rice or buttered pasta. "
Avai l abl e packaged i n your l ocal supermarket, or use your own.
1 68
BAKED BENS
2 oz. l i qui d smoke
2 oz. vi negar
2 oz. Worcestershi re sauce
1 l b. brown sugar
1 l b. l i ght brown sugar
% gal l on catsup
Hampton's
Daytona Beach
l eftover barbecue meat, chopped (or commerci al l y
prepared barbecue sauce wi th pork or beef
added)
3 cans Showboat baked beans or your favorite
brand
Combi ne l i qui d smoke, vi negar, Worcestershi re,
brown sugars, and cat sup, and heat j ust to t he
boi l i ng poi nt . St i r occasi onal l y to mel t sugars and
bl end i ngredi ents. Add l eftover barbec ue meat and
baked beans. Sti r frequent l y u nt i l mi xt u re t hi ckens.
For an extra taste t reat , di p fri ed ch i cken i n sauce.
Serves : 8-1 0 as a mai n di sh
"Adding the barbecue meat gives the beans a
delicious flavor. Here's a good Sunday night supper
recipe. "
1 69
Hampton's
Daytona Beach
PICKLED BEES
(Al l ow t i me to chi l l )
1 1 6-oz. can cri nkl e cut beets (strai ght cut beets
may be substi tuted, but the cri nkl e type
absorbs the f lavor better)
% C. sugar
3 T. vi negar
Drai n j u i ce f rom canned beets i nto a saucepan and
set beets asi de. Add sugar and vi negar to j ui ce and
bri ng to a boi l . Add beets and br i ng to a boi l agai n.
Let si t at room t emperat ure, about 2 hours, t o cool
down before chi l l i ng. Be caref ul not to overcook
beets as t hey wi l l f l ake.
Yi el ds: about 4 cups
Preparat i on: 5 mi nutes pl us cool i ng and chi l l i ng
t i me
Cooki ng: about 1 0 mi nutes
liThe degree of pickling in this dish is just right. Or,
you can add sliced raw onions for a different flavor. "
1 70
2 C. water
LUC'S BANANA PIE
1 % oz. dry mi l k (lowfat base)
1 % oz. cornstarch
% C. sugar
2 eggs
% t. vani l l a
Hampton's
Daytona Beach
1 %-2 bananas, sl iced (dependi ng on pie shel l size)
1 prebaked pie shel l
whi pped cream or Cool Whi p
St i r wat er, mi l k, and cornstarch i n saucepan u nt i l
cornstarch i s t horough l y mi xed i n. Br i ng t o boi l and
add remai ni ng i ngredi ents except f r ui t . St i r wi th wi re
whi sk u nt i l mi xt u re t hi ckens. Di vi de and f ol d i nto pi e
shel l . Add banana sl i ces i n l ayers. Chi l l . Add whi pped
cream or Cool Whi p and serve.
Yi el ds: 1 pi e
Preparat i on: 1 0- 1 5 mi n utes pl us 1 hour to chi l l
"For variations, use % C. coconut instead of or in
addition to bananas. For Peanut Butter Pie, cook
base thicker so that it doesn't become runny when
peanut butter is added. Sprinkle flour over % C.
peanut butter in bowl. Knead with a fork into 1inch
balls and add to base instead of bananas. "
1 7 1
U
:
O
u
m
o
c
o
0
c
O
m
.
m
C
m
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7
Te Old Spanish Sugar Mill

Deleon Springs
Wi thout a doubt, the most unusual restaurant i n al l of
Fl ori da' s state recreat i on areas is the Ol d Spani sh Sugar Mi l l
at Deleon Spri ngs. The park was pri vatel y operated unt i l
1 982, when t he state purchased i t , but t he Schwarze fami l y
cont i nues to operate the mi l l and the gri ddl e house as they
have si nce 1 962.
What ' s so u nusual i s not onl y the mi l l i t sel f but how the
pancakes are prepared there. I nsi de t he restaurant, l ong
wooden tabl es have rectangu l ar el ectri c gri ddl es sunken i nto
thei r tops. You pour the batter (prepared from grai ns ground
on t he French buhr mi l l stones) on t he gr i ddl e yoursel f and f i x
them j ust the way you l i ke!
Now what coul d be more "down home" t han t hat ? The
ni ce t hi ng i s t hat you don' t have to worry about cl ean i ng up.
Patty Schwarze tel l s t he mi l l ' s story. The ori gi nal struc
t ure, bu i l t l ong before the Ci vi l War, was a sugar mi l l . Dur i ng
that war i t was used f or corn that was shi pped down the St.
John' s Ri ver. The mi l l burned down but was rebui l t . later i t
became run-down agai n . Patty' s fat her, a f i ft h-generat i on
gri st mi l l er who had al ways l oved ol d bui l di ngs, got together
wi th the park owners and restored the mi l l hi msel f.
1 73
Today' s bui l di ng l ooks l i ke an ol d cou nt ry store wi t h a
fri endl y, camp-l i ke atmosphere. Wi th the fresh-water spri ng
and sl opi ng l awn out si de for su n n i ng, i t ' s t he perfect day
camp sett i ng for the whol e fami l y. Even the peacocks get i nto
the act. The mal es spread thei r bri ghtl y-hued feathers so
often that the si ght i sn't a novel ty but rather i s an expected
el ement of nat ural beauty.
I n add i t i on to the cook- ' em-yoursel f pancakes, t here' s an
assortment of ot her breakfast i tems, hot and col d sand
wi ches, sal ads, frui t , and cheese-everyt hi ng you' d take
wi t h you i f you were packi ng a pi cni c basket. But t he
speci al ty remai ns t he sel ect i on of f resh , stone-ground
f l ours f or the pancakes and fresh- baked bread. These i n
cl ude whol e wheat, rye, nat ural whi t e, soya, sprouted wheat,
and f i ve-grai n honey. I t ' s a l abor of l ove to make the f l our.
Even t hough t he park cl oses down for t he ni ght and the
restaurant cl oses wi t h i t , the mi l l stays busy, baki ng bread
unt i l the wee hours of the morni ng. I t' s a cost l y and t i me
consumi ng process, but i t' s a smal l pri ce to pay for real ,
whol esome food.
Go on out and spend t he day!
Directions: From 1-4 East or West, take U.S. 1 7-92 North, just
north of Deltona, through DeLand and into DeLeon Springs.
Stay on 1 7-92 and follow signs to the park.
While you're here: If the day at the park isn 't enough, you
can visit the Pi oneer Settlement for the Creative Arts, a
museum and winter crafts school in a pioneer homestead
environment. It's located just off the intersection of 1 7-92
and SR 40. Be sure to visit the kitchen and see how jellied
citrus candies are made. Then backtrack to DeLand and visit
Stetson University, another Florida landmark, many of
whose buildings date from the 1 9th century. Save time
especially for the Rice Pl anetari um.
1 74
The Old Spanish Sugar Mill
DeLeon Springs
GRANOL CEREL
4 I bs. rol l ed oats
% l b. shredded coconut
% l b. macro * fl aked rye
% l b. macro fl aked wheat
% l b. sunflower seeds
% l b. mi l l ett
6 oz. sesame seeds
1 C. vegetabl e oi l , preferabl y nonhydrogenated
1 C. honey
cashews
rai si ns
dates
Mi x grai ns and seeds. Combi ne oi l and honey and
add to dry mi xt ure. Bake at 300 O F. unt i l brown,
st i rr i ng frequent l y. Add any amount desi red of
cashews, rai si ns, and dates. Store i n t i ght l y covered
contai ners.
Yi el ds: a very l arge quanti ty ! (20-30 l arge servi ngs)
Cooki ng: depends on quanti ty
"Not only is this a delicious cereal, it 's also a great
snack!
Avai l abl e i n heal th food stores
1 75
DeLeon Springs
SOY GRITS FOR BALNCED PROTEI N BRED
% C. soybeans * per pound of dough or fl our
your favorite whol e wheat bread reci pe (such as
Tassaj ara)
Toast soybeans to make gri ts for 1 0 mi nutes at
400 . Crack i n a Vi tami x or bl ender or handmi l l , a
few at a t i me. "Throw" cracked soybean chunks i nt o
favori t e whol e wheat reci pe and bake bread per usual
i nstruct i ons.
Yi el ds: 1 l oaf
Preparat i on: 1 5 mi nutes pl us bread reci pe
Cooki ng: depends on your reci pe
"This bread has a nutty texture and contains lots of
protein for a good, nutritious treat. "
Avai l abl e i n heal t h food stores
1 76
DeLeon Springs
CARWAY BAKED POTATOES
5-6 baki ng potatoes, scrubbed
2 C. rye fl our
water
1 C. unbl eached whi te fl our
2-3 T. ground caraway
Bake the potatoes for 1 0 mi nutes i n a 350 O F. oven
and then cool compl etel y. Mi x enough water i nto the
f l ours and caraway to make a t hi ck dough. Knead for
a few mi nutes i f necessary. Wrap each potato i n a
l ayer of dough and seal edges wi t h water. Bake i n a
350 O F. oven (di rectl y on t he oven rack) for
45 to 60 mi nutes. Serve wi th casi ng on and butter on
the si de.
Serves: 5-6
"We found that the preliminary baking of the
potatoes before wrapping in dough ensured that both
the potato and dough would be cooked at the same
time. "
1 7 7
Oiedo Inn
Oiedo
A short ri de away from Orl ando' s bust l i ng touri st i ndust ry
and burgeon i ng el ectroni cs f i rms, t here' s a q ui et l i tt l e haven
where i t' s l i ke goi ng to Grandma' s to spend a day i n the
country.
Just northeast of Orl ando i s the smal l t own of Ovi edo,
where Tom and Kat hl een Estes run t hei r l ovel y Ovi edo I n n .
Appeari ng seemi ngl y out i n the mi ddl e of nowhere, t hi s
rust i c bui l di ng l ooks l i ke a ni ce, l arge home.
I t' s j ust as att ract i ve i nsi de as outsi de, wi th fresh f l owers
dott i ng wooden tabl es covered wi th pri nt tabl ecl ot hs.
There' s a great stone f i repl ace and real wood panel i ng .
Much of t hi s detai l and the overal l desi gn are a resul t of
Tom' s own craftsmanshi p. Even though you probabl y won 't
know t he peopl e i n the pi ct ures, i t' s f un to l ook at t he photos
on the wal l s from Ovi edo Hi gh School i n t he 1 930s.
The photos on the menu go back to the t urn of the cen
t ury, showi ng the Ovi edo area as i t used to be. " Edi tori al "
comments on t he menu gi ve cl ues about each di sh, for ex
ampl e, speci al s t hat are "ready when you are, " and desserts
"to reward you j ust for waki ng up today. " I f you have a
country-si ze appeti te, you' l l more than get your f i l l .
1 78
Desserts are l i sted first on the menu. That' s to t i p you off
that they' re del i ci ous enough to warrant pl an n i ng the rest of
your meal to l eave room for them at the end. Tortes, cob
bl ers, frui t meri ngues, bread puddi ngs, i ce cream pi es . . .
wel l , you get the i dea.
The chef and al l of the cooki ng staff have had outstandi ng
cul i nary experi ence and t rai n i ng, whi ch show on t he menu
and i n the preparat i on. One unusual ent ree i s Boneless Bar
becue Beef Ribs, recommended "for the sauce or because
fol ks don't have to f i ght the ri bs to get at al l t hat good beef."
Homemade soups, sauces, sal ad dressi ng, ci nnamon
rol l s . . . they' re al l fresh. Mmmm!
Directions: The Oviedo Inn is on SR 426 (Aloma Avenue).
From 1-4 in Orlando, take the Colonial Drive exit east to SR
436 (Semoran Boulevard) or the East- West Expressway (toll)
to the same road. Follow 436 north and tur east on SR 426,
about a 15-minute ride to the Inn, depending on traffic. You
can also reach 426 from 1-4 north by taking the SR 436 exit
east and following it south, beyond Red Bug and Howell
Branch Roads, until it intersects with 426.
While you're here: The Orlando area is known for the
world's best theme parks. On the quieter side, not far from
Oviedo, is Wi nter Park, a well-established, older community
northwest of the city. Princely oak trees line its main shop
ping street, Park Avenue, and it's home to Rol l i ns Col l ege,
the state's oldest private school. A scenic boat cruise offers
glimpses of old and not-sa-old mansions built along the
town 's numerous and delightful lakes. The Morse Art
Gal l ery, with stained glass work by Louis B. Tiffany, is only
one of the many art centers in the area.
1 79
Oviedo Inn
Oviedo
NEW ENGLND CORN CHOWDER
2 oz. bacon
% cup diced oni ons
% oz. fl our
8 oz. chi cken stock
1 cup creamed corn
3 smal l potatoes, di ced and cooked unti l j ust
tender
% pi nt whol e mi l k, heated
% cup l ight cream, heated
sal t , white pepper, and garlic powder to taste
Chop or gr i nd bacon. Cook u nt i l bacon starts to
render fat . Add oni ons and saut
e
u nt i l t ender. Add
f l our and mi x wel l . Cook wi t hout browni ng,
3 to 4 mi nutes. Sl owl y add c h i cken stock, st i rr i ng
u nt i l smoot h. Add corn, potatoes, mi l k, cream, and
seasoni ngs. Heat gent l y.
Serves: 5-6
"This recipe may come from New England, but try it
with fresh Florida corn from Zellwood Station! "
1 80
BAKED HAM AND FRUI SAUCE
1 ham, ful l y cooked (6-8 oz. per servi ng)
% cup honey
ground cl oves to taste
2 cans frui t cocktai l
1 can water
1 T. ci nnamon
1 t . cl oves
5 oz. brown sugar
2 T. appl e ci der vi negar
cornstarch
1 -2 drops red food col ori ng (opti onal )
Oviedo Inn
Oviedo
Make mi xt ure of honey and ground cl oves. Score
ham wi t h a sharp kn i f e, maki ng cuts a hal f- i nch apart .
Smear honey mi xt ure on ham and bake for one hour
at 350 O F.
FRUIT SAUCE
Drai n fru i t cocktai l j u i ce i nto a pot and save fru i t for
use l ater. Add one can of water to f rui t j ui ce and
bri ng to a boi l . Add remai ni ng i ngredi ent s except
cornstarch and food col ori ng and ret urn to a boi l .
Di ssol ve enough cornstarch i n water t o add t o j ui ce
to t hi cken i t. Si mmer 3 to 4 mi nutes. When mi xt ure i s
t hi ckened to desi red consi stency, add frui t cocktai l .
Ret urn t o boi l . Add food col ori ng i f desi red. Serve
fru i t sauce wi t h ham.
Serves: 6- 1 0 dependi ng on si ze of ham
Preparat i on: ham-5- 1 0 mi nutes
sauce-1 0 mi nutes
Cooki ng: ham-1 hour
sauce-1 0 mi nutes
"The fruit cocktail can be substituted with canned
apricots or peaches but omit the cloves.
! b !
Oviedo Inn
Oviedo
APPLESAUCE
1 0 l arge cooki ng appl es
1 C. water
1 C. sugar
2 t. nut meg
1 t. ci nnamon
Wash, pare and quart er appl es. Remove core. Pl ace
appl es i n saucepan wi t h water. Cook over medi um
heat, covered, unt i l t ender, about 1 5-20 mi nutes. St i r
i n sugar, nut meg, and ci nnamon. Reduce heat and
cook 5 mi n utes more. Serve hot or col d (ch i l l about
1 hour) .
Serves: 8
Cooki ng: 20-25 mi n utes ( pl us t i me to ch i l l i f served
col d)
"This recipe reverses the cinnamonnutmeg ratio,
which makes it a spicy sauce. Serve as a side dish. "
1 82
BRED PUDDI NG
% sti ck butter or margari ne
1 0 sl i ces whi te bread
1 % qts. coffee cream, di vi ded
1 0 eggs
2 C. sugar
pinch sal t
1
t. vani l l a
nutmeg and ci nnamon to taste
rai si ns (opti onal )
Oviedo Inn
Oviedo
Mel t butter i n 9 x 1 3 x 2-i nch pan and set asi de. Break
up bread and pl ace i n l arge bowl . Pour 1 qt. of cream
over bread and set as i de. Break eggs i nto mi xi ng
bowl and add sugar. Beat unt i l eggs are foamy and
sugar i s mi xed i n. Add sal t and vani l l a. Cont i nue to
beat whi l e addi ng remai n i ng % qt . of cream. Pour i nto
bowl wi th bread-and-cream mi xt ure. St i r l i ght l y wi t h
l arge spoon. Pour i nto pan wi t h mel ted butter.
Spri nkl e nut meg and ci n namon on top. Add rai si ns i f
desi red. Pl ace i n l arger pan wi t h %-i nch deep water.
Bake i n 350 of. oven 1 hour, or unt i l kni fe i nserted i n
center comes out cl ean. Serve warm or col d, wi t h
l emon sauce (see page 1 84) and whi pped cream or
heavy cream.
Serves: 1 2
Cooki ng: 1 hour
"This is more of a custard than a pudding. I t is
absolutely delicious warm or cold, sauced or not. "
1 83
Oviedo Inn
Oviedo
LEMON SAUCE
2 T. cornstarch
1 C. sugar
% t. sal t
2 C. water
4 T. l emon j ui ce
2 egg yol ks, beaten
2 T. butter, mel ted
Mi x cornstarch, sugar, and sal t. Add water and sti r
unt i l smoot h. Cook over medi um heat u nt i l mi xture i s
cl ear and t hi ckened, about 8-1 0 mi nutes. Add l emon
j ui ce and cook 1 mi n ute. Remove f rom heat. Pour i n
beaten egg yol ks and st i r i n mel ted butter. Mi x
t horoughl y. Serve sl i ght l y warm.
"Serve over Bread Pudding (page 183). Reduce the
amount of sugar if you prefer a sauce that is more
tart. "
1 84
I
o
0
D
o
O
u
O
Te Catish Place
St. Cloud
If you've ever gotten t i red of pi cki ng bones out of what
was supposed to be f i l l eted f i sh, or i f you haven' t qui te
adapted to eat i ng the bones as wel l as the meat on f i nger
l i ng catfi sh, t ry Steve and Judy Johnson' s Cat f i sh Pl ace.
The fi sh are brought i n, ski nned, cl eaned, washed, f i l l ets
removed f rom the backbone and cut i n t hi n stri ps. They' re
l i ght l y rol l ed i n corn meal and cooked evenl y t hroughout.
They hardl y even taste "fi shy, " and you' l l al most never fi nd a
bone. Of course, you can order f i ngerl i ngs here, too, and eat
the bones if you wi sh. But the stri ps are a speci al ty t hat
you' re not l i kel y to f i nd el sewhere.
To keep a constant suppl y of outstand i ng cat f i sh on hand,
Steve buys f rom about two dozen di fferent commerci al
f i shermen, wi t h del i veri es al l week l ong. He keeps t he fresh
f i sh i n a l arge wal k-i n freezer, wi t h i ce pl aced at the bottom
of bi g whi t e pl ast i c t ubs wi th hol es for d rai ni ng. The f i sh are
pl aced on top of the i ce. The ai r f rom the wal k-i n keeps the
f i sh col d on top, and i t stays fresh l onger.
Steve i nsi sts that the breadi ng be done at t he l ast mi nute
j ust before cooki ng to i nsure maxi mum l i ght ness and
1 85
freshness. He' s the onl y one who knows the exact 1 0 i ngre
di ents i n hi s breadi ng mi x, whi ch he spri nkl es over damp
f i sh stri ps pl aced i n a stai nl ess steel pan. Then he adds j ust
enough water to wet t he pan but not so much as to wash off
the meal . Next, he rol l s the fi sh wel l i n more meal , pi cki ng
u p each pi ece and l ett i ng the meal fal l off except for a f i ne
coat i ng. Fi nal l y, he drops t he stri ps i nto a deep fat fryer for
about t hree mi nutes, at 350 F. At home, t hough, i f you add
too many pi eces of col d f i sh to the oi l , the fryi ng oi l tempera
t ure may be l owered too much. I t' s better to drop onl y a few
pi eces i n at a t i me.
The Catfi sh Pl ace has a f i sh market adj acent to t he restau
rant and sel l s both f i sh and some 5, 000 pounds of col e sl aw
a week to cou nt l ess other restaurants around the state.
Another speci al ty served here is turt l e, wi th the bone and the
fat removed for a mi l der taste than usual .
Don' t get carri ed away and try to catch the f i sh i n t he
400-gal l on sal t-water aquari u m di vi di ng the restaurant sec
ti on from the oyster bar. But do di g i n to a pl ate of catf i sh.
Thi s i s t he ki nd of pl ace where you "chat and chew. "
Directions: The Catfish Place i s at the corer of U.S. 1 92
(13th Street) and Alabama Avenue. U. S. 1 92 is St. Cloud's
"main drag, " about 19 miles east of the /4 exit for Walt
Disney World.
While you're here: The Repti l e World Serpentari um just east
of St. Cloud and the Gatorland Zoo in Kissimmee should pro
vide you with your fill of viewing snakes, turtles, alligators,
and crocodiles. If you're more domestically inclined and are
interested in home economics, tour the Tupperware Interna
ti onal Headquarters and museum of food containers, two
miles north of Kissimmee.
1 86
CATISH
The Catfish Place
St. Cloud
4 catfi sh fi l l ets, cut in 2-3-inch stri ps
Accent (same amount as sal t)
dash papri ka
1 cup corn meal , stone ground
oi l for fryi ng
li ght l y season corn meal wi t h sal t , pepper and
Accent. Add a l i ttl e papri ka f or col ori ng. Di p cat f i sh
st r i ps i n meal mi xt ure and deep fry u nt i l gol den
brown. Fi sh get s cooked evenl y t hroughout .
Serves: 2-4
Cooki ng: 5 to 1 0 mi n utes
"Chef Steve Johnson insists on using only fresh,
stone-ground corn meal made by old-time Georgia
Crackers who live in the woods near Atlanta_ Their
meal looks like real fine face powder, he says, and is
also good for making grits_ "
1 87
The Catfish Place
St. Cloud
HUSHPUPPIES
% I bs. sugar
% C. baki ng powder
% t. sal t
% t. pepper
% t. garlic sal t
1 % I bs. oni on, di ced
2 eggs
10 oz. mi l k
1 % I bs. fl our
1 % I bs. corn meal
Mi x sugar, baki ng powder, sal t, pepper, and garl i c
sal t. Bl end on i ons, eggs, and mi l k i n bl ender unt i l
on i ons have a text u re l i ke a mi l kshake, not t oo t h i n ,
and add t o dry mi xture unt i l moi st. Let si t unt i l
mi xt ure bubbl es, about 3 t o 5 mi nutes. Meanwhi l e,
mi x f l our and corn meal i n a separate bowl and
gradual l y add to l i qu i d mi xt ure. The resul t i ng batter
shoul d be t h i ck, l i ke a cooki e dough. I f i t i s too
watery, add more corn meal and f l our; i f i t i s too
t hi ck, add more mi l k. Deep fat f ry by t he hal f
teaspoonf ul i n very hot oi l , 375 F. By f ryi ng onl y a
few at a t i me, hush puppi es wi l l cook qu i ckl y and
have a l i ght , ai ry text ure.
Yi el ds: about 250 (great for a l arge party)
Cooki ng: depends upon quant i ty
"The batter keeps well in the refrigerator, as long as
six weeks. The original reCipe made 2,000
hushpuppies-we cut the recipe down a bit. . . . "
1 88
2% I bs. cabbage
1 carrot, grated
COLE SLW
The Catfish Place
St. Cloud
1 C. sweet sal ad dressi ng (Pi kni k, if avai l abl e.
Do not use mayonnai se.)
% C. sugar
pi nch sal t
pi nch garl i c sal t
pi nch bl ack pepper
13 t. red wi ne vi negar
dash oni on, chopped fi ne
Chop off bottom of cabbage, cut i n quarters, and
remove core. Grate. Mi x by hand i n l arge bowl wi t h
ot her i ngredi ents. Ch i l l and serve.
Serves: 8-1 0
"The very l i ght use of seasonings and just a l i ttl e bit
of onion keeps this slaw from having an
overpowering taste. It's popular with everyone. "
1 89
Suncrest Resturant
Melbourne
The way El i zabeth Ford ( Betty, to al l of her guests) runs
her Suncrest Restaurant i s j ust t he way you l i ke to see a
smal l busi ness managed. The restaurant i s l i ke a 1 950s-era
coffee shop, and the servi ngs are g i ganti c. If you have a
smal l er appeti te, order a hal f port i on i nstead.
Lunch speci al s are pl anned for q ui ck servi ce. Not every
t hi ng appears on the pri nted menu, so you' l l frequentl y hear
customers aski ng Betty, "What' s for di nner, dear?" j ust l i ke
at home. And wi t h fou r of her si x chi l dren worki ng there wi th
her, i t may as wel l be home.
Betty entered the restaurant busi ness after bei ng a cook
i n New York Ci ty and cateri ng Vi ennese Tabl es. These were
el aborate affai rs, fl ami ng dessert smorgasbords rol l ed out
on t i ered tabl es at fancy weddi ngs and si mi l ar events. After
vacat i on i ng i n Fl ori da and l ovi ng i t, she event ual l y deci ded
to move here. I t was a nat ural for her, when she bought t he
Suncrest, t o conti nue t he ori gi nal owner' s tradi ti on of del i
ci ous pi es and home cooki ng.
We' d be remi ss i f we d i dn' t pass on to you some of Betty' s
most successf u l cooki ng hi nts. For one t hi ng, except for
1 90
home fri es and french fri es, s he uses very l i tt l e grease for
cooki ng, preferri ng to saut
e
and steam foods i nstead. She' l l
use water and onl y a l i ttl e oi l f or sal mon patt i es, f or exam
pl e, sprayi ng her pans wi t h Pam. Her gravy i s made from a
grease-free broth rather than a commerci al mi x. She puts l eft
overs to good use: after cooki ng 25 to 30 turkeys a week, she
uses every part, i n soup, sal ad, and croquettes. Homemade
soups and cl am or shri mp bi sque are so thi ck "you can eat
them wi th a fork." Onl y fresh frui ts and vegetabl es ever
appear on her sal ad pl ates.
Smal l wonder, t hen, that some of her customers eat
l i teral l y all of t hei r meal s here !
About t hose l arge porti ons, now. Go i n wi t h a bear-size ap
peti te for a mammoth bl ueberry muffi n that must be four
t i mes the si ze of the average muffi n, served wi t h fresh
honey from a nearby honey bee farm. Or when you order a
"Super Suncrester, " be prepared for a two- hand, fi ve-napki n
hamburger l oaded wi t h mel ted cheese, a pi l e of shaved ham,
and a barbecue-l i ke sauce. I t's addi ct i ve !
Good news for di abeti cs, too. Betty makes a di eteti c appl e
pi e usi ng water-packed appl e sl i ces and no sacchari n or sugar.
Her greatest reward? Compl i ments from her guests.
You' l l add yours, too.
Directions: The Suncrest is at 914 New Haven Avenue (U.S.
192). The restaurant is on the north side of the street,
approximately two miles west of the intersection of 192 with
U. S. 1.
While you're here: If you're anywhere near the Space Coast
when there's a launch planned, call for schedule informa
tion. The toll-free number is in the phone book. The Kennedy
Space Center tours at Cape Canaveral are dramatic
memorials to moder history, not to be missed. About a half
hour drive in the opposite direction, south on A 1 A, is the
McLarty State Museum at Sebastian Inlet, with displays of
the hurricane wreck of two large Spanish treasure fleets in
1 715.
1 91
Suncrest Restaurant
Melboure
BEEF PI NWHEELS
1 package Ji ffy bi scui t mi x
mi l k
leftover pot roast or beef, sl iced or di ced
(al l ow 6-8 oz. per servi ng)
granul ated garl i c
chopped parsl ey
sal t and pepper
egg yol k, beaten
gravy (homemade or commerci al )
Fol l ow t he di rect i ons on t he mi x to make the batter
BUT repl ace t he water wi t h mi l k. Knead for a few
mi nutes. Di vi de dough i n hal f and rol l out so t hat i t i s
qui te t hi n. Use a rol l i ng cutter or sharp kni fe and cut
out st r i ps approxi matel y 3 by 5 i nches. Pl ace meat i n
a stri p up t he mi ddl e of each st ri p of dough. Spri nkl e
wi t h garl i c, parsl ey, sal t ( i f needed), and pepper. Rol l
up and pl ace seam si de down i n a pan t hat has been
sprayed wi t h Pam or Mazol a No-st i ck. Br ush each
pi nwheel wi t h beaten egg yol k. Bake accordi ng to
J i ffy package di recti ons i f usi ng a convent i onal oven
or 300 F. i n a convecti on oven for 1 5 to 20 mi n utes.
When done, sl i ce each pi nwheel on t he di agonal and
serve covered wi th gravy.
Serves: 4
Cooki ng: 1 0-20 mi nutes, dependi ng u pon oven used
"A good solution to the 'whattodowithleftovers'
problem. "
1 92
Suncrest Restaurant
Melboure
RICE-BROCCOLl-CHEESE CASSEROLE
1 box Mi nute Rice
% No. 1 0 can Cheddar cheese sauce
2 1 3oz. cans evaporated mi l k
% l b. margari ne or butter
2 l arge boxes frozen whole broccol i , defrosted
grated cheese
Make Mi n ute Ri ce. Pou r cheese sauce over ri ce and
add mi l k and margar i ne. Pl ace broccol i on bottom of
baki ng pan and pour ri ce mi xt ure over t op. Add sal t
and pepper to taste. Bake unt i l casserol e starts to
bubbl e, about 1 5-20 mi n utes at 300 F. i n a
convect i on oven. Serve wi t h a spat u l a, t ur ni ng over
so t hat broccol i i s on top. Spri nkl e wi t h grated
cheese.
Serves: 8-1 0
Preparat i on: 5- 1 0 mi n utes
Cooki n g: 1 5-20 mi n utes i n convect i on oven
about 35 mi nutes i n reg u l ar oven
"For variations, try ham, scal/oped potatoes, or corn
in addition to or instead of broccoli. "
1 93
Suncrest Restaurant
Melboure
PENU BU ER PIE
1 C. heavy cream
2 C. commerci al l iqui d toppi ng such as Ri ch' s
2 boxes Jel l o i nstant Vani l l a Puddi ng
4 heapi ng T. peanut butter
% C. crushed nuts
1 baked pi e shel l
chocolate fudge toppi ng
whi pped cream for toppi ng
crushed nuts for garni sh
Combi ne heavy cream, l i qu i d whi pped t oppi ng, and
puddi ng. Wh i p u nt i l t hi ck, f l uffy, and compl etel y
bl ended. Add peanu t butter and nuts. Fol d i nto pi e
shel l . Opt i onal : swi rl chocol ate f udge toppi ng
t hrough f i l l i ng wi t h a kni fe by dr i bbl i ng over t op and
bl endi ng i t i n l i ke a marbl e cake. Decorate wi t h
whi pped cream or t oppi ng (toppi ng wi l l hol d u p
better) and spr i nkl e wi t h crushed nuts. Chi l l . Keep i n
refri gerator u n t i l ready t o serve.
Serves: 6
Preparat i on: 1 0 mi n utes pl us t i me t o chi l l
"Peanut butter's not just for sandwiches anymore!"
1 94
Ve Tower Lunch
Lanana
A l andmark i n Lantana-hometown for The National En
quirer-i s Ye Tower Lu nch, a restaurant noted both for i t s
tower and for bei ng Pal m Beach county' s ol dest busi ness
under the same ownershi p.
Actual l y, t he tower i sn' t what i t used to be. Pau l Dunbar
and hi s brother had purchased what was once a 55-foot-tal l
l ookout pl atform used for prospect i ve l andowners duri ng
Fl ori da' s boom days. They converted i t i nto a restaurant to
cater to the then-smal l town. I n j ust a few years, the town
grew rapi dl y, wi t h real estate devel opment taki ng off and
hi ghway construct i on at the f ront door. Ye Tower Lunch
became part of everyone' s soci al l i fe, t he pl ace to go after
hi gh school dances or for speci al events i n the communi ty.
But the ki l l er hurri cane of 1 928, the same one t hat caused
Lake Okeechobee to overf l ow and wi pe out the popul at i on
of several smal l t owns, knocked down the 55-foot struct ure,
and the tower t hat stands today i s onl y a f i ve-foot memori al .
Other than the smal l er tower, the restaurant hasn' t changed
much i n more than hal f a century. Wel l , there' s been some
rebui l di ng . . . when cars have dri ven t hrough the front wal l
1 95
because there' s al most no set back from the road, thanks to a
provi si on i n the deed that was grandfathered i n and whi ch
kept t he ci ty from rel ocat i ng t he bui l di ng. But t he fi xtures i n
si de are ori gi nal , even down to some of the gl ass and tabl e
ware. And i f the soda fountai n i tsel f doesn' t bri ng back
memori es, t ry si ppi ng one of Pau l ' s ol d-fashi oned chocol ate
mal ts. The sandwi ches and cheeseburgers are al l the same
as what he i ntroduced to the area decades ago.
You' l l get more than your f i l l of l ocal hi story here. Pau l
was mayor of Lantana for n i ne years, served i n other el ected
posts, and became a noted photographer whose photos
chroni cl e the town' s earl y growt h. As a resu l t of hi s effort s,
a 3,OOO-foot stri p al ong the beach wi l l al ways be publ i cl y
owned, a ki nd of haven i n contrast wi t h mi l es of devel op
ment el sewhere.
Ye Tower Lu nch has become an i nst i t ut i on i n t hi s smal l
Fl ori da town on the Gol d Coast. To f i nd home-styl e cooki ng
at good pri ces makes i t an unusual di scovery wel l worth
si ngl i ng out.
Directions: Ye Tower Lunch is at 916 South Dixie Highway
(U. S. 1). From 1-95, take the Hypoluxo Road exit east to U. S.
1. Tur north on U. S. 1 for five blocks to address. Or, take the
Lantana Road exit east to U. S. 1 and tur south for nine
blocks. Ye Tower Lunch is on the east side of the street.
While you're here: One town north of Lantana is Lake Worth,
whose lakeshore lots were given away in the 1900s to those
who purchased tracts of truck and fruit land elsewhere in
town. Today, fresh-water fishing is popular at Lake Osborne,
and salt-water fishing is the attraction from one of Florida 's
longest municipally-owned Atlantic Ocean piers. In Palm
Beach see Worth Avenue, with its exclusive shops, and the
Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, formerly the home of the
big-time developer for whom it is named. The house cost
$4-million to complete in 1 902. Flagler's restored private
railroad car is also on the grounds.
1 96
Ye Tower Lunch
Lantana
PAUL DUNBAR'S CREM PIES BASIC RECIPE
2 3 1/80l. boxes Jel l o Puddi ng Mi x (not i nstant)
2 T. cornstarch
1 qt. mi l k
1 1 0-i nch baked pi e shel l
whi pped cream
Prepare 1 0-i nch pi e shel l wi t h your favori te reci pe. I n
2-quart saucepan add puddi ng mi x, cornstarch, and
mi l k. Cook over medi um heat, st i rri n g constantl y for
about 7 mi nutes or u nt i l boi l i ng. Do not overcook.
Cool to room temperat ure, t hen refri gerate unt i l
ready t o use. After cool i ng, st i r puddi ng and pour
i nto pi e shel l . Top wi t h wh i pped cream.
FOR CHOCOLATE PI E:
Fol l ow same basic reci pe usi ng vani l l a pudding mi x, but add two
1 -ounce squares of Baker's Semisweet Chocol ate before cooking
pudding. As i t cooks, the chocol ate mel ts and makes a ri cher chocol ate
puddi ng.
FOR BANANA PI E:
Fol l ow same basic recipe using vani l la pudding mi x. Cook and cool . Line
bottom of pie shel l wi th sliced bananas before pouring pudding into it.
FOR COCONUT PI E:
Fol l ow same basic reci pe usi ng vani l l a puddi ng mi x. Cook and cool . Add
1 cup of Baker's Shredded Coconut to puddi ng, stir wel l , then pour into
pie shel l . Top wi th whi pped cream and sprinkle wi th addi ti onal coconut.
FOR BUTTERSCOTCH PI E:
Fol l ow same basic reci pe usi ng butterscotch pudding mi x.
Yi el ds: 1 pi e each reci pe
Preparat i on: about 1 0 mi n utes pl us t i me to chi l l
"This is a quick dessert if you have prebaked pie
shells on hand. "
1 97
IA
BBDIMA
DB 2BA8
M Esquina De Tejas
Miami
Unt i l recentl y, La Esqu i na de Tejas was one among many
Cuban restaurants i n Mi ami ' s Li ttl e Havana di stri ct, si mpl y
goi ng about busi ness i n t he usual way. Si nce 1 967, the
popul ar corner restaurant, decked wi th ham hocks hangi ng
i n the wi ndows, has been known for i ts sandwi ches and
good, standard Cuban fare. Speci al s are vari ed t hroughout
the week, di shes l i ke Fricase de Polio (roasted or stewed
chi cken), Picadillo (a ground beef and tomato sauce di sh,
Sop a de Pescado (f i sh soup) and si mi l ar i tems.
On Cuban I ndependence Day i n May, 1 983, the regular menu
at La Esqu i na de Tejas became famous. Presi dent Reagan
came to town and stopped i n for l unch. He was warml y
greeted by 204 di ners, al l of whom were t here by speci al i n
vi tati on of the owners.
One guest sai d, "I ' m gl ad the Presi dent knows a good
restaurant when he sees one. "
Actual l y, the apparent spontanei ty of t he occasi on was
caref ul l y pl anned. When co-owners J uan Vento and Wi l fredo
Chami zo recei ved word of the i mpendi ng vi si t, they q ui etl y
began to i nvi te some of thei r "regu l ars, " each of whom had
1 99
to be approved by securi ty. The Presi dent' s personal stew
ard passed i nspect i on on the ki tchen and the menu, whi ch
was sel ected because there' s a wel l - known restaurant by
t he same name i n Cuba and because i t offers typi cal Cuban
food. Vento made no changes i n the menu for the occasi on,
and what the presi dent wou l d eat was not determi ned i n ad
vance. But earl i er i n the day, the chef and hi s staff had
prepared 50 pound of moros (bl ack beans and ri ce), 1 20
platanos ( pl an tai ns, s i mi l ar to bananas) , 40 pol/os
(chi ckens), and 600 servi ngs of flan (custard) for t he rest of
t he week.
And Presi dent Reagan then enj oyed the No. 1 speci al of
the day, Polio Asado, Moros y Platanos, accompani ed by a
mi n i at ure cup of strong-fl avored Cuban coffee.
Vento has si nce pl aced i n safe-keepi ng the tabl e and chai r
where the Presi dent sat, and t he t abl e servi ce t hat he used.
Otherwi se, everyt hi ng i s stayi ng the same-t he menu, the
cheerf ul western-styl e decor wi t h i ts wrought- i ron sect i ons
al ong t he cou nter, red bri ck t i l e fl oor, bri ght red accents and
whi te tabl ecl ot hs, and wood panel i ng i n one of t he di ni ng
rooms.
And you ' l l f i nd, too, that the same hospi t al i t y and good
wi shes extended to the Presi dent are al so offered to every
day guests. The name may say "Texas Corner" i n t ransl a
t i on, but i t ' s "Famous Florida! " now.
Directions: La Esquina de Tejas is at 101 SW 12th Avenue.
From U. S. 1 (Biscayne Boulevard) downtown, turn west on
1st Street NE, going under the North-South Expressway,
after which 1st Street merges with Flagler. Tur left on 12th
Avenue to address; La Esquina de Tejas is on the east side
of the street.
While you're here: Miami and Miami Beach are full of ex
citing sights and things to do. The Mi ami Heral d newspaper
building gives tours and is considered one of the most
beautiful newspaper plants in the country. The Mi ami Sea
quari um and Pl anet Ocean, both reached from Rickenbacker
Causeway, are entertaining, educational centers for marine
life and oceanography. By all means save time for shopping
and soaking up the sunshine!
200
La Esquina De Tejas
Miami
POLLO ASADO (BAKED CHICKEN)
3 chi ckens cut i nto quarters
2 t. sal t
2 garl i c cl oves
5 bi tter oranges, squeezed (or equal parts of
orange and l i me jui ce)
Wash chi cken and pat dry. Spri nkl e wi t h 1 teaspoon
sal t and pat i n gent l y. Pl ace ch i cken i n one l ayer i n a
l arge pan and bake i n a 400 o f. oven for 1 hour.
Remove and baste wi t h a mi xt ure of j ui ce, garl i c and
sal t . Ret urn to t he oven for another 30 mi n utes.
Serves: 4-6
"When making the basting mixture, combine the
ingredients in a jar and shake well. If you are on a
low sodium diet, the salt can be omitted. "
201
La Esquina De Tejas
Miami
MOROS (MIXED BLCK BENS)
1 2 oz. dry bl ack beans
2 l i ters pl us 6 oz. water
3 oz. ol ive oi l
1 medi um green pepper, mi nced
1 medi um oni on, mi nced
5 oz. (about 1 0 stri ps) bacon, di ced
2 T. sal t
3 T. garl i c powder
1 T. Accent
1 T. cumi n powder
6 l aurel or bay l eaves
1 t. oregano
1 l b. 4 oz. uncooked rice
Wash beans wel l . Pl ace i n a pressu re cooker wi t h
water and cook for 25-30 mi nutes unt i l t he beans are
soft . The beans and water can al so be cooked i n a
covered pot for 1 %-2 hours. Remove from heat . Heat
ol i ve oi l i n a medi um ski l l et and saut
e
g reen pepper,
oni on and bacon unt i l vegetabl es are gol den. St i r i nto
beans al ong wi t h the remai nder of i ngredi ent s except
ri ce. Bri ng to a boi l and add ri ce. St i r and cook for
5 mi nutes. Cover ski l l et ( or a casserol e di sh) and
bake i n a 350 of. oven for 30 mi n utes. Sti r wel l and
cook for an addi t i onal 1 0 mi n utes.
Serves: 6
Cooki ng: about 40 mi nutes pl us t i me to cook t he
beans
HThis dish may remind you of Hoppingjohn (see
recipe page 66). Both are excellent. "
202
La Esquina De Tejas
Miami
P
L
TANOS MADUROS (FRIED SWEE BANANAS)
4 very ripe * bananas, peel ed and cut i nto 1 i nch
sl i ces
1 cup vegetabl e or ol ive oi l
Heat t he oi l i n a ski l l et unt i l i t i s about 350 o f. Fry
bananas unt i l both si des are gol den.
Serves: 4
Cooki ng: u nt i l gol den
"lf you are going to use the bananas as a dessert, fry
in vegetable oil and sprinkle with a little powdered
sugar. Use olive oil if the bananas are going to be a
side dish. Plantains are similar to bananas and are
commonly served in Spanish and Cuban restaurants."
"The secret l i es i n the bananas' ri peness.
203
La Esquina De Tejas
Miami
FLN (CARAMEL CUSTARD)
1 C. sugar
1 C. water pl us 2 oz.
1 oz. Ani sette
1 oz. ci nnamon st i cks (don't use powdered
ci nnamon)
6 large egg yol ks
6 oz. condensed mi l k
6 oz. evaporated mi l k
6 oz. whol e mi l k
7 t. sal t
6 oz. grated coconut
Cook sugar and 2 oz. of water over hi gh heat, sti rri ng
constantl y. Pour resul t i ng caramel i nto 6 mol ds or
custard cups and cool . (As you pour, swi rl caramel
around so t hat i t coats si des and bottom of mol ds. )
Boi l t oget her for 10 mi nutes: t he 1 cup water,
Ani sette and c i nnamon st i cks. Remove ci nnamon
st i cks. Cool sl i ght l y. St i r i n al l eggs, mi l ks, sal t , and
coconut . Mi x unt i l smooth and creamy. Pour i nto
mol ds t hat have been coated wi th caramel . Pl ace
mol ds i n a baki ng pan and f i l l wi th hot wat er t o come
hal f way up si des of mol ds. Bake i n a 300 O F. oven for
45 mi nutes or unt i l a tooth pi ck i nserted i nto mi ddl e
of f l an comes out cl ean.
Serves: 6
"Flan can be served chilled, at room temperature, or
slightly warm. This one's great. "
204
Malaga
Miami
Between West Fl ag l er Street and SW Ei ght h St reet ( U. S.
41) i n Mi ami , j ust north of Coral Gabl es, pul ses another
"count ry, " Li tt l e Havana, la capital del exilio cubano. Al l up
and down t he mai n streets and t he si de al l eys, t he area has
become l i ke Cuba t ranspl anted, especi al l y du ri ng the past
20 years or so. The cul t ural l i fe of the cou ntry has been i m
ported and adapted t o mi ngl e wi t h Ameri can customs.
Shops of al l ki nds, professi onal offi ces, bakeri es and pro
duce stands resound wi t h a mi xt ure of Cu ban, Span i sh and
Mexi can di al ects. The eateri es range f rom l arge, col orfu l
bodegastyl e struct ures (a bodega can be ei t her a grocery
store or a wi ne cel l ar), to t i ny sandwi ch shops where you
al most never hear a word of Engl i sh.
One unprepossessi ng establ i shment whose exteri or hardl y
even hi nts at the feast wi t hi n i s Mal aga, a f requent t op
choi ce among many restaurant revi ewers. I ts i nformal yet
el egant ambiente combi ned wi t h i ts generous servi ngs of
tradi t i onal Lat i n fare at surpri si ngl y l ow pri ces have an
chored i ts pl ace as a "Cal l e Ocho" ( Ei ght h St reet nei gh
borhood) restau rant.
205
After comi ng to the Uni ted States, owners Jos
e
and Teresa
Fern
a
ndez operated an award-wi nni ng restaurant for some
t i me i n Chi cago. They relocated to Mi ami , speci fi cal l y to Li t
t l e Havana, preci sel y because it was so much l i ke Cuba. I n
1 975 they purchased the Mal aga. Teresa's mother al so moved
here wi t h them and hel ps them run the restaurant.
Mal aga, named for a Spani sh ci ty that was Pi casso' s bi rt h
pl ace, exudes warmth wi t h bri ght red tabl ecl oths, dark wood
rafters, and Spani sh pl ates and works of art on the wal l s. The
restaurant entrance i s actual l y an open area between these
rooms and l eads di rectl y i nto a del i ghtful courtyard wi th bri ck
t i l es and frui t t rees. Beyond the courtyard i s another bui l di ng
wi t h several pri vate di ni ng rooms, each outfi tted wi t h i t s own
matched set of tabl eware. I t ' s hard to bel i eve the sett i ng i s so
graci ous and refi ned as the pri ces are so reasonabl e.
The servi ce i s appropri atel y warm, wi t h hospi tal i ty the key
whether you speak Engl i sh or Spani sh. Cuban, Spani sh, and
Mexi can di shes are popul ar, as i s the seafood. And t hei r
speci al ti es such as roast chi cken and a choi ce preparat i on
of red snapper can be appreci ated i n any l anguage.
Wel come-bienvenido !
Directions: Malaga is at 740 SW Eighth Street (U. S. 41,
Tamiami Trail). Eighth Street i s one-way heading east, so
from 1-95, when you take the exit ramp for U. S. 41, you will
drive west on Seventh Street, tur left on Eighth Avenue,
and left again onto Eighth Street to address.
While you're here: For information on Hispanic festivals held
throughout the year, call the Latin Chamber of Commerce or
the Little Havana Tourist Authority (see your phone book or
call Directory Assistance). Not far from Little Havana is Viz
caya, virtually a palace that was once the estate of early 20th
century industrialist James Deering, developer of moder
agricultural machinery. Home of the Dade County Ar
Museum, Vizcaya is an Italian-style palazzo, with formal
gardens, that became a model for structures later built in
Miami and Coral Gables.
206
Malaga
Miami
PICADI LLO (LTI N VERSION OF SLOP JOES)
1 oni on, chopped
1 l arge chi l i pepper, chopped (remove seeds fi rst)
2 cloves garl i c, crushed
oi l for saut
e
i ng
1 l b. ground beef
1 t . sal t
1 t . chopped pi mi ento
% C. capers, drai ned, ri nsed, and crushed
% C. tomato sauce
% C. dry whi te wi ne
rai si ns (opti onal)
Saut
e
oni on, chi l i pepper, and garl i c unt i l oni on
starts t o brown. Add g round beef . When beef begi ns
t o brown, add t he rest of t he i ngredi ents. St i r wel l .
Cover and si mmer 20 mi nutes. Drai n excess j u i ce
before servi ng.
Serves: 6
"Be sure to wear rubber gloves when removing the
seeds of any hot pepper. If you forget and rub your
eyes within the next few hours, you will remember
the next time! Serve with rice and/or beans or on
buns. "
207
Malaga
Miami
CARNE ASADA MECHADA
(POT ROAST OR ROAS BEEF, CUBAN STLE)
(Al l ow t i me to mari nate)
3 I bs. beef (pot roast or roast beef)
3 oz. bacon or ham, mi nced
2 carrots, mi nced
garl i c to taste, crushed
% smal l jar pi mi ento
1 t. oregano
1 t. meat t enderi zer
2 bay leaves
2 T. l emon j ui ce
2 l arge oni ons, sl iced
% C. oi l
1 C. dry red wi ne
Make deep sl ashes across the fat of t he beef i n a
di amond pattern (as i f scori ng a ham). Mi x f i nel y
mi nced ham or bacon and carrot s toget her and stuff
i nto cut s. Season meat wi th garl i c, pi mi ento,
oregano, meat t enderi zer, bay l eaf and l emon j ui ce.
Cover wi th on i on r i ngs and ref ri gerate for at
l east 6 hours. Drai n meat (reserve mari nade), pat dry,
and brown i n hot oi l . Add wi ne and al l of t he
mari nade i ngredi ent s pl us sal t t o taste. Cover t i ght l y
and cook over a l ow heat unt i l done. Add add i t i onal
wi ne and wat er as necessary to prevent meat f rom
st i cki ng to pan. Do not overcook. Defat gravy and
taste for seasoni ngs. Serve sl i ced wi t h some of the
mari nade i ngredi ent s on t op.
Serves: 4-6
Preparat i on: 1 0 mi nutes pl us t i me for mari nat i ng
Cooki ng: 2-3 hours
"This goes well with black beans and/or rice, or
boiled potatoes. "
208
palla FRITO (FRIED CHICKEN)
1 2l b. frying chi cken
1 cl ove garl i c, crushed
1 t. oregano
1 sour orange or 2 l emons, sl i ced
1 l arge oni on, sl i ced i nto ri ngs
% C. shorteni ng or oi l for fryi ng
sal t to taste
% jar pi mi ento or % red pepper, chopped
Malaga
Miami
Cut ch i cken i n quarters. Wash, pat dry, and mari nate
i n crushed garli c, oregano, and l emon or orange
sl i ces. Cover wi t h oni on ri ngs and refri gerate. Saut
e
ch i cken pi eces on both si des i n hot oi l . When gol den
brown , spri nkl e l i ght l y wi t h sal t and pi mi ent o. Add
mari nade i ngred i ents. Cook over l ow heat , covered
t i ght l y, for 25 mi n utes.
Serves: 4
Preparat i on: 1 5-20 mi n utes pl us t i me to mari nate
"This is not fried chicken as such. It's more of a
flavorful chicken stew. Marinate as long as possible. "
209
Malaga
Miami
SHRIMP IN GARLIC SAUCE, MALGA-SllE
2 I bs. j umbo shri mp
2 large oni ons
3 cl oves fresh garl i c or to taste
T smal l bunch parsley, chopped
% C. ol ive oi l
1 t . sal t
1 t. pepper
1 C. dry wi ne Chabl i s
1 T. fi nel y grated cheese, such as Parmesan
3 T. butter
1 can green peas
1 can pi mi ento strips
rice
Ri nse shri mp wel l , peel shel l s, and devei n. Be carefu l
not to cut off tai l . Mash garl i c and chop oni ons
thorough l y. Mi x i n bl ender: parsl ey, oi l , sal t and
pepper, wi ne, cheese, butter, garl i c, and oni ons. Pour
mi xt ure over shri mp. Cook i n pot over medi um heat
for 25 mi nut es. Garni sh wi t h peas and pi mi entos.
Serve over ri ce.
Serves: 4-5
Preparat i on : 15 mi nutes
"This popular recipe has been featured on the
popular Burdine's Chef's Tour. A companion recipe
for chicken and pork is a garlic sauce spiced with
ore
q
ano. Try this one on other kinds of fish as well. "
21 0
MOJO CRIOLLO
Malaga
Miami
(CREOLE SAUCE FOR CHICKEN OR PORK)
4 cl oves garl i c
1 t . sal t
% C. oi l
j ui ce from 1 sour orange (or l emon i f not
avai l abl e)
Crush garl i c cl oves wi t h sal t . Pour oi l i n f ryi ng pan
and heat qui ckl y. Add garl i c and j ui ce from orange
(previ ousl y heated) . St i r t horough l y. When warmed
throug h, serve over meat wi th vegetabl es such as
yuca, name, or malanga.
Yi el ds: about 1 cup
"This is not the Southern tomato-based sauce that
you may already be familiar with. It's
q
uite piquante,
and a tablespoon or two added to rice is excellent. "
2 1 1
Malaga
Miami
#
SANGRIA
1 bottl e Rioja (a Spani sh red wi ne)
8 oz. l emon soda
4 T. sugar
2 whol e l i mes, squeezed
8 oz. mi xed frui t cocktai l , drai ned and sl i ghtl y
crushed
1 orange, sl i ced
Pour wi ne and l emon soda i nto pi t cher. Add sugar,
j ui ce from l i mes, fru i t cocktai l , and orange sl i ces.
Add i ce and sti r wel l . Serve i n wi ne gobl ets.
Serves: 2-4
"A delicious, refreshing Spanish beverage, ideal for
any occasion. Goes well with poultry, seafood, and
red meat. "
2 1 2
Te Spiral
Coral Gables
I nf l at i on may have a spi ral i ng curve, but the pr i ces at The
Spi ral restaurant have al ways remai ned modest. The re
freshi ng, nat ural foods menu has appeal ed to everyone f rom
hi ppi es i n the 1 960s to Rol l s Royce owners and, most
recent l y, Chri sto, the publ i ci ty-attract i ng art i st who deco
rated Mi ami ' s Bi scayne Bay i sl ands i n pi nk pl ast i c.
Thi s i sn' t an ordi nary "heal th food" restau rant for Fl ori da.
I ndeed, owners Hank and Jerry Gol dschei n woul d rather not
even cal l i t that. The decor i s a spri ngy, l i vel y green, wi t h a
bri ghtl y col ored vegetabl e pattern for wal l paper i nterspersed
wi th wood panel i ng and whi te wrought i ron d i vi ders. The
surpri se as you enter is the sl ot machi ne t hat shows movi es
for ki ds of any age.
The restaurant f i rst opened i n 1 970. When Hank and Jerry
became the owners, they kept many of the same i tems on
the menu and added some new ones. Besi des the array of
seafood tempura d i shes, pasta and sal ads, there' s al ways a
"cook' s pl easure, " usual l y a hot vegetabl e speci al . And i f
you l i ke vegetabl e soup, you ' l l l ove i t at The Spi ral -great
bi g chunks of f resh everyt hi ng, f i l l ed u p to the top of a bowl
of cl ear but tasty brot h. I t real l y i s a meal i n i tsel f .
2 1 3
"Consci ent i ous cu i si ne" i s what Hank and Jerry cal l i t ,
servi ng heal t hy port i ons of "basi c eats" wi t hout preten
t i ousness. Though meat and chi cken don' t appear on t he
menu, seafood does. Fish Francaise i s a house speci al ty
prepared as one woul d prepare veal . The f ri ed buckwheat
noodl es wi t h vegetabl es were rated the best heal th food
di sh in the area by South Florida Magazine (formerl y Miami
Magazine).
The house dressi ng is made wi thout any dai ry products.
I t ' s a bl end of mi so ( a soy and ri ce paste), oi l , vi negar, tamari ,
and a l i ttl e oni on and honey, good enough to be used to
f l avor j ust about anyt hi ng on your pl ate. Mapl e syrup or
honey are used as sweeteners i nstead of sugar.
What we enj oyed most of al l were the homemade des
serts, baked f resh each morni ng. Banana Carob Pi e,
Strawberry Pi e, Mango-Banana Pi e . . . you may ri ghtful l y
concl ude t hat one bi te i s worth a thousand revi ews.
So put on your j eans or come over i n your shorts. The
Spi ral wi l l
b
e ready to t reat your tastebuds.
Directions: The Spiral is at 1 630 Ponce de Leon Boulevard.
From U. S. 1, tur north on Ponce de Leon Boulevard, going
across Miracle Mile until you get to the address. The Spiral
is on the west side of the street.
While you're here: The lavish Coral Gables lifestyle became
famous during the 1 920s, and you can fantasize about the
exquisite parties of those times just by driving along the
residential streets. Spanish, Mediterranean, and moder
architectural styles dominate the estates. The Players State
Theater at the nearby Coconut Grove Playhouse presents
star casts in hit shows. The Lowe Art Museum Gal lery, south
of the Coral Gables business district on the University of
Mi ami campus, is one of the prominent art centers of the
state, with Renaissance, Baroque, American, and African
collections.
2 1 4
METLESS CHI LI
T l arge oni on, chopped
3 green peppers, chopped
T . cumi n
T t. sal t or to taste
T t. pepper
T t. garl i c powder
T . chi l i powder or more to taste
T t . whol e thyme
3 tomatoes, chopped
2 cans ki dney beans
5 oz. soy burger*
T smal l can tomato paste
cooked ri ce
Cheddar cheese, grated
The Spiral
Coral Gables
Saute oni ons and peppers unt i l t ender. Add spi ces,
st i r, and add t omatoes. Cook over medi u m l ow heat.
Add heated beans, soy burger, and tomato paste.
Turn off heat . Serve over a l arge spoonf ul of ri ce wi t h
grated Cheddar cheese spr i nkl ed on t op.
Serves: 4-6
Cooki ng: 30-45 mi nutes (the l onger t i me i s
necesary i f you use dry ki dney beans)
"A delicious variation on an oldtime favorite. "
Avai l abl e |0 heal th food stores
2 1 5
The Spiral
Coral Gables
3 eggpl ants
RED SAUCE
1 oni on, chopped
ol i ve oi l
MOUSSAK
2 tomatoes, cut i n wedges
1 T. parsley
1 t. oregano
1 t. garl i c
1 T. ci nnamon
1 T. Tamari *
1 smal l can tomato paste
6 oz. soy burger*
WHI TE SAUCE
% lb. butter
1 C. whi te fl our
1 pt. mi l k
1 T. nutmeg
2 eggs, beaten
% l b. ricotta cheese
2 16
TO ASSEMBLE:
The Spiral
Coral Gables
Peel egg pl ant , cut i nto sl i ces, and drop i nto boi l i ng
water, cook for about 1 0 mi nutes. For Red Sauce:
Saute oni ons i n ol i ve oi l , add tomatoes, spi ces and
si mmer, about 10 mi nutes. Add tomato paste and soy
burger. Turn off heat and l adl e over eggpl ant .
For Wh i te Sauce: Mi x butter, f l our, mi l k, and
seasoni ngs. Sti r over medi um heat. When mi xt ure
th i ckens, remove from heat . Add eggs and cheese.
Ladl e over Red Sauce and cook ent i re di sh for
1 hour, uncovered, at 350 o f.
Serves: 6-8
Preparat i on: eggpl ant -1 5 mi nutes;
Red Sauce-1 5 mi nutes;
Whi te Sauce-1 0 mi nutes
Cooki ng: 1 hour
"Another popular natural main course. "
Avai l abl e in heal th food stores or Ori ental food stores
2 1 7
The Spiral
Coral Gables
BEV'S CABBAGE
cooki ng oi l
1 l b. fettuci ne noodl es, boi l ed unti l j ust tender
1 oni on, chopped
5 tomatoes, cut i n wedges
1 T. parsley
1 T. garlic powder
1 t . sal t
1 t. pepper
1 l b. cottage cheese
% l arge head of cabbage, sl i ced i nto shreds
butter
1 t. caraway seed
1 t. cel ery seed
1 t. whole thyme
1 l b. cheese, Swi ss and cheddar mi xed
Grease baki ng pan or t ray wi t h cooki ng oi l and f i l l
wi th boi l ed fett uci ne
n
oodl es. I n separate pan saute
oni ons, tomatoes, parsl ey, garl i c, sal t and pepper.
St i r cottage cheese i nto mi xt ure. Spoon over noodl es
and mi x t horoughl y. Saute shredded cabbage i n
butter wi t h remai ni ng spi ces, taki ng care t hat
cabbage doesn' t st i ck to pan. Toss often over
medi um heat. Spread over noodl es. Top wi t h cheese
and bake 45 mi nutes, covered at 350 .
Serves: 6-8
"Do not overcook noodles or cabbage. "
2 1 8
MANGO-BANANA PIE
1 baked pi e shel l
The Spiral
Coral Gables
2 or 3 large mangoes, depending upon si ze
ci nnamon and honey to taste
cornstarch
3 T. appl e jui ce
5 bananas, sl iced
whi pped cream
Prepare the pi e shel l . Make sure you r f rui t i s very
ri pe. The mangoes shoul d be sweet and orange. (The
Spi ral current l y uses Hai t i an mangoes. ) Sl i ce
mangoes and cook wi t h t hei r own j ui ce i n a pot over
medi um heat. Add a t ouch of ci nnamon and honey to
taste. Add enough cornstarch to t hi cken. Add appl e
j u i ce and bl end wel l . (Other compat i bl e f r ui t j u i ce
can be subst i t uted for t he appl e j ui ce. ) The l onger
t he mangoes are cooked the t hi cker t he mi xt ure wi l l
be. Remove f rom heat and cool . Mi x wi t h sl i ced
bananas i n a separate bowl . Fol d i nto baked pi e
shel l . Chi l l and serve t opped wi t h whi pped cream.
Yi el ds: 1 pi e
Cooki ng: 1 0-20 mi nutes pl us t i me to chi l l and
prepare and bake pi e crust
"This is a heavenly dish. If mangoes are out of
season, try the recipe with canned mangoes and cut
down the cooking time. Combine the mangoes with
peaches or pineapple instead of bananas for another
treat. "
2 1 9
Miccosukee Restaurant
Tamiami Trail (Miami)
Fl ori da' s I ndi an heri tage and food ways are characteri st i c
of southeastern Un i t ed States I ndi an groups, from whom
several tri bes i n the state are descended. The Mi ccosukee,
for exampl e, come from the Hi t i chi t i -speaki ng branch of the
Creek Nat i on i n the Carol i nas and Georgi a. They i ntermi n
g l ed wi t h nat i ve Fl ori da t r i bes and t he Semi nol es, who came
to the state some years l ater i n the 1 700s.
The Mi ccosukee were recogn i zed i n 1 962 as a federal
I ndi an tri be, separate from the Semi nol es. Both tri bes today
have compl ete educati onal , heal th and publ i c safety depart
ments, and both benefi t from the 1 04, 000-acre State I nd i an
Reservat i on south of Lake Okeechobee, by the Evergl ades
Nati onal Park.
Tradi t i onal l y, the men i n the tri bes have been hu nters and
f i shermen. One of the Mi ccosukee i ncome sources today i s
deri ved from the Vi l l age and Cul t ural Center at t he reserva
t i on, a l i vi ng exampl e of a real fami l y camp. Vi si t ors al ong
the Tami ami Trai l can stop for a taste of Everg l ades or
Ameri can di shes at the nei ghbori ng Mi ccosukee Restau
rant. Tri bal Chai rman Buffal o Ti ger and hi s sons Lee (the
220
tri be' s publ i c rel at i ons expert) and Stephen (an accom
pl i shed art i st) wel come guests who come to see how the
Mi ccosukee have preserved t hei r ol d bel i efs, rel i gi on and
customs.
The typi cal vi l l age i s composed of several "chi ckees. "
These st ruct ures consi st of an open framework of cypress
pol es covered wi t h sl opi ng pal metto fronds to keep out the
rai n . The cooki ng chi ckee i s the most promi nent i n the
camp, and al l of the women prepare meal s t here over an
open f i re on the ground. The four cypress pol es surroundi ng
t he f i re by custom are ai med towards the f our corners of t he
eart h. You can get an i dea of t he cooki ng chi ckee' s i mpor
tance by understandi ng that i n the matri archal I nd i an soci
ety, a husband-to-be bui l ds a new chi ckee i n hi s i ntended' s
mother' s camp. I f hi s prospecti ve bri de accepts hi m, she
pl aces cooki ng utensi l s i n the chi ckee and then the cere
mony takes pl ace.
The Mi ccosukee d i et tradi t i onal l y consi sts of meat , ri ce
and fi sh, wi t h veni son and duck when they are i n season .
But as l and has become l ess avai l abl e, some of the ol d ways
of obtai ni ng food have been restri cted ei t her by state regul a
ti on or as a resul t of dwi ndl i ng suppl i es. Even some of the
att i t udes toward eat i ng al l i gator, rattl esnake, and rabbi t
(once forbi dden as food sou rces) have begu n t o change over
the years. Ask a modern I ndi an what he l i kes to eat and the
answer i s as l i kel y to be a McDonal d' s hamburger as i t i s fry
bread.
Sofkee, a common Mi ccosu kee and Semi nol e di sh, i s tra
di t i onal l y made from cracked homi ny, corn kernel s t reated
wi th wood-ash l ye. The soup- l i ke mi xt ure i s avai l abl e
t hroughout the day f or peopl e t o serve themsel ves whenever
they' re hungry. Nat i ve fru i t trees such as the pi geon pl um,
seven-year appl e, and seagrape are al so stapl es for raw or
cooked sweets.
.
The ann ual Green Corn Dance hel d i n June i s a fest i val that
cel ebrates the new corn crop, the begi nni ng of the new year
for the tri be, and formal i nducti on of the boys i nto manhood
wi th new names. Duri ng the Chri stmas hol i day season the
Mi ccosukees sponsor an I ndi an Arts Fest i val among more
than 30 tri bes from al l over the Uni ted States. The Vi l l age and
Restaurant are open to the publ i c year-round.
22 1
Directions: The Miccosukee Restaurant is approximately 40
miles west of Miami on U.S. 4 1 (Tamiami Trail), on the north
side of the road. The Village and Cultural Center are another
quarter of a mile west, on the south side of the road.
While you're here: Take time to visit the Vi l l age and Cul tural
Center, as well as the several Seminole centers along the
same road. Both tribes are an important part of Florida's
cultural make-up. Gift shop souvenirs include some of the
colorful clothing and handiwork made by Indian craftsmen.
NOTES
222
Tamiami Trail
I NDIAN FR BRED (MODERN VERSION)
2 I bs. sel fri si ng fl our
2% C. water
cooki ng oi l
I n a l arge bowl , mi x water wel l wi t h f l our, usi ng
hands. Add addi t i onal water i f needed. Turn mi xt ure
i nto a dough by kneadi ng i t for about 5 mi nutes.
Di vi de the dough i nto 3 or 4 pi eces. Fl atten dough to
at l east a hal f-i nch t hi ck by t urn i ng over and over on
pal ms of hands unt i l each pi ece i s ni ce and round.
Fry i n hot oi l i n ski l l et , t urni ng when gol den. Fry
Bread is done when both si des are gol den brown.
Drai n on paper towel s. Serve pl ai n or wi t h butter.
Yi el ds: 3-4 servi ngs
"The traditional method calls for fine hominy meal
instead of flour, to be mixed with boiling water. We
think this way is just fine. "
-NOTES-
223
Tamiami Trail
I NDIAN FRI ED PUMPKIN BREAD
2 C. sel fri si ng fl our (spoon l i ghtly when
measuri ng)
1 1 6oz. can pumpki n (not pumpki n pi e f i l l i ng)
7 C. whi te or brown sugar
oi l for fryi ng
Combi ne f l our, pumpki n, and sugar. Bl end wel l and
refri gerate for 2 hours i n order to f i rm up the dough a
bi t . Di vi de dough i nt o 4 port i ons. Knead each port i on
on a f l oured board or cl oth for a few mi nutes or unt i l
i t can be formed i nto a cyl i nder about 8 t o 1 0 i nches
l ong. Cut each cyl i nder i nto 6 sl i ces. Fl our each sl i ce
and form i nto a cake no more than a hal f- i nch t hi ck
at t he most . Fry t he cakes i n hot oi l . Turn when
bottom si de i s brown. When bot h si des are brown,
drai n on paper towel s and serve l0090l8l9ly wi t h
butter andlor mapl e syrup.
Yi el ds: about 24 sl i ces
Preparat i on: 1 0-20 mi nutes pl us t i me for
ref ri gerati ng
"This is one of the most popular snacks at the
annual Florida Folk Festival. Instead of deep frying
the cakes, follow the cook's suggestion of using a
wellseasoned cast iron frying pan and filling the pan
a little more than halfway with oil. Try serving these
as a side dish with fried chicken or pork. They are
best when served very hot."
224
Tamiami Trail
ORIGINAL I NDIAN BURGER
fry bread dough mi xture, hal ved (see reci pe,
page 223)
% lb. ground beef
% oni on, fi nel y chopped
1 qt. water
cooki ng oi l for deep fryi ng
Bri ng to a boi l ground beef, oni on, and water. Reduce
heat to si mmer f or 20 mi n utes. Drai n j u i ces from
ground beef . Have the f ry bread dough mi xt ure ready,
si zed, and rol l ed f l at on al umi num f oi l dusted wi t h
f l our. Take hal f a handf ul of t he cooked ground beef
mi xt ure and set i n mi ddl e of f ry bread dough . Li ft
dough gent l y around ground beef mi xt ure and
overl ap edges of dough , pi nchi ng and seal i ng wi t h
f i ngers. Deep f ry f or 6 t o 8 mi n utes. Drai n excess oi l
on paper towel f or a mi nut e. Cut open on t op for
cond i ment s, sal t and pepper to taste.
Serves: 2
"Goes great with cole slaw! "
225
Mangrove Mama
'
s
Sugar Loaf Key
Set at an angl e by t he si de of the road agai nst a cl ump of
t rees so t hat you ' d hardl y know i t was a commerci al busi
ness, Mangrove Mama' s i s act ual l y a restaurant i n a cottage.
I t l ooks more l i ke a vest i ge of the 1 960s than i t does a
contemporary enterpri se.
Though i t i sn' t typi cal of a "conch" archi tectural styl e
featu ri ng the wooden "gi ngerbread" desi gns so popu l ar i n
the 1 9t h cent ury, i t does have an ol d-t i me Keys at mosphere.
The fl oors are concrete, the bar i s made from seasoned
Dade pi ne, there' s a porch d i n i ng area and a bri ck f i repl ace,
and tabl es are decked wi th cotton tabl ecl ot hs wi th faded
f rui t patterns. You 've heard t hat the at mosphere i n the Keys
i s casual and l ai d back? Here' s proof. Mangrove Mama' s
"feel s" l i ke a beach bar, but creat i ve, homestyl e cooki ng i s
t he emphasi s, not t he bar.
Joi n several nat i ves at the counter-there are no
strangers here-and prepare for a t reat, f rom conch fri tters
wi t h more conch per bi te t han you may have sampl ed el se
where, to the taste sensat i on of f reshl y broi l ed fi sh wi th
"Di xi e" fri es, to the unexpected pl easu re of n utmeg
226
shavi ngs t hat enl i ven the desserts. Conch steak i s f i xed wi th
whi te wi ne and l emon j u i ce for an excepti onal vari ati on on a
popul ar l ocal di sh. Garl i c i s served on t he si de wi t h every
t hi ng, "a way of l i fe" at Mangrove Mama' s. Somet i mes home
baked goods are served from Mama LaBomba' s, nearby. The
menu vari es accordi ng to "season, " summer l ast i ng for
seven months and wi nter temperat ures bei ng not much
di fferent.
Those open-door breezes whi ski ng past your ear whi l e
you eat may be somet hi ng more than a gent l e wi nd. You see,
Mangrove Mama was ori gi nal l y the name of a boat owned by
the restaurant' s f i rst owner, Captai n Edward Wal don Li n
'
ton
( 1 880-1 956). Rumor has i t t hat hi s spi ri t sti l l haunts the si te
and the bui l di ng i tsel f, whi ch has wi thstood many a hurri
cane over the past 30 or so years.
Vi si tors who are not nat i ve conchs can onl y relax and
enj oy the food and the company, si t around and hear tal es
about how Key Westerners came to be known as conchs,
and l et thei r i magi nat i on run free over t he di fferent col ors of
the waters of the Atl ant i c Ocean and the Gul f of Mexi co.
Wi th a l i tt l e hel p from Mangrove Mama' s nat ural food, i t
won ' t take l ong f or your Keys fantasi es to become real i ty.
Directions: Mangrove Mama 's is at Mile Marker 20. Take
U.S. 1 to this marker, on the west side of the road, just a
short drive north of Key West.
227
While you're here: The Keys are a nature lover's paradise.
Here along the lower part of the chain are the state park at
Bahi a Honda, Bi g Pine Key with its tiny deer and tall
Caribbean pines, snorkeling and skin-diving along Looe Key
Reef (a national marine sanctuary accessible only by water,
southwest of Big Pine), camping facilities, and woods.
Sugar Loaf Key was named after Indian middens (refuse
heaps) that looked like sugar loaves to the early settlers.
Nature tours and seaplane trips originate from the Sugar
Loaf Lodge.
On the last key to the west
Underneath an eagle 's nest,
Dig a fathom in the rotted tier.
The chests have rotted from their bales
But the yellow gold will prove the tales
About the MANGROVE BUCCANEER.
[ 1975 Anhinga Roost Music (SESAC)
(Dale Crider)
Printed by permission
228
CONCH STEK
1 conch * steak, fresh or frozen
fl our
1 egg, beaten
cl ari fi ed butter* *
% t. l emon j ui ce
1 T. dry whi te wi ne
sal t to taste
Mangrove Mama
Sugar Loaf Key
Butterf l y conch steak by cutt i ng out t he vei n , sl i di ng
kni fe down each si de, and openi ng steak out to each
si de. Tenderi ze by poundi ng wi th mal l et or back of a
kni fe. Dredge steak i n f l our, di p i n beat en egg, and
back agai n i nto f l our. Saut
e
over medi um heat i n
cl ari fi ed butter, about 45 seconds on each si de. Add
l emon j u i ce, wi ne, and sal t to taste. Serve
i mmedi at el y.
Serves: 1
Preparat i on: 1 5-30 mi nutes ( i ncl udes 1 0- 1 5 mi nutes
for tenderi zi ng conch)
"The butterlemon juicewine combination is a
perfect flavor enhancer for the conch. Try this sauce
with other seafood as well. If conch is frozen, defrost
it quickly under cold running water. Try serving this
dish with steamed new potatoes or home fries. "
Avai l abl e at most seafood markets, o r wri te publ i sher for name of
suppl i er i n your area
"See Gl ossary
229
Mangrove Mama
Sugar Loaf Key
CONCH FRI ERS
% I b. conch, tenderized
1 l arge oni on
1 sweet red pepper
% t. sal t
% t. bl ack pepper
% t. garl i c powder or to taste
1 t . baki ng powder
%- % C. whi te fl our
1 egg, sl i ghtl y mi xed
oi l to deep fat fry
Coarsel y gr i nd conch i n food processor or meat
gri nder and pl ace i n separate mi xi ng bowl . Repeat for
on i ons and pepper. I n a separate bowl add sal t,
pepper, garl i c powder, and baki ng powder to fl our
and st i r to mi x. Add conch, oni ons, and pepper to dry
mi xt ure. Add egg and mi x wel l . You may have to add
more f l our to bi nd t he i ngredi ent s. Form mi xt ure i nto
1 6 fri tters. Heat oi l t o 350 F. and fry fri tters, a few at
a t i me, unt i l gol den. Drai n and serve wi t h cocktai l
sauce, /98O horseradi sh, or l emon j ui ce.
Yi el ds: 1 6
"You can use this recipe to make clam tritters as
well, but you will have to use a little more flour for
binding. The trick to these fritters is to use just
enough flour to bind the conch and the other
ingredients together. What a great way to savor real
conch flavor!"
230
DIXIE FRIES
Mangrove Mama
Sugar Loaf Key
4 potatoes, cut in 3-inch stri ps, square on ends
water
vegetabl e oi l (such as soybean)
Soak potato st ri ps i n 1 00 F. wat er for 1 5 mi nutes to
take out excess starch and prevent t urn i ng bl ack.
Drai n water. Pat dry. Fry a few at a t i me i n 300 ` f. oi l
for 45 seconds. Cool at room t emperat ure. Store and
re-fry at 375 ` f. to desi red brownness for anot her
mi nute or l ess. Fri es shoul d be cr i spy out si de, t ender
and sweet i nsi de, and a ri ch, gol den-orange col or.
Serves: 4
Cooki ng: 2 mi nutes per bat ch
"These fries can be made with or without the skins_ "
231
Mangrove Mama
Sugar Loaf Key
ONION RINGS WI SESAME SEEDS
2 l arge oni ons
sal t
2 C. fl our
1 T. sesame seeds, or more to taste
1 egg, whi pped sl i ghtl y
1 C. i ce water
3-4 ice cubes
' t. whi te pepper
Sl i ce oni ons i nto %-i nch r i ngs. Separate r i ngs and
l i ght l y sal t. Let stand for 1 0 mi nutes at room
temperat ure u nt i l on i on r i ngs are damp and sl i ght l y
l i mp. Mi x sesame seeds wi t h 1 cup of f l our and set
asi de. Make batter by mi xi ng the egg wi t h t he
second cup of f l our, i ce water, i ce cubes and pepper.
Di p oni on ri ngs i n f l our, then i n batter. Fry i n deep oi l
heated to 375 o f. for about 1 mi nut e, j ust unt i l cri spy
brown out si de.
Serves: 2-4
Cooki ng: 1 mi nute per bat ch
"Try this technique and your batter will adhere
beautifully to the onion rings. If you have extra
batter, dip other fresh vegetables into it and prepare
in the same way. Broccoli, mushrooms, or cauliflower
come out 'tempura style. ' "
232
MICHAEL'S BANANAS
2 oz. cl ari fi ed butter
2 pi nches fresh ground nutmeg
2 ripe bananas, sl iced
Mangrove Mama
Sugar Loaf Key
% fresh whol e pi neappl e, cored and cut i n chunks,
or 1 smal l can chunk pi neappl e
2 T. fresh l emon j uice
4 scoops vani l l a ice cream
ground nutmeg for garni sh
Heat butter i n a ski l l et. Add nut meg and bananas and
saut
e
for 1 mi n ute over medi um heat . When bananas
begi n to "mel t , " add pi neappl e and l emon j ui ce. St i r
and saut
e
anot her mi nut e. Serve i n i ndi vi dual di shes
wi th a scoop of vani l l a i ce cream over each. Spri nkl e
n ut meg l i ght l y over t he i ce cream and serve.
Serves: 4
Preparat i on: 20 mi nutes (i ncl udes t i me f or cori ng
and prepari ng fresh pi neappl e)
"This dish is a refreshing and cooling dessert,
especially in hot weather. The aromatic spice of the
fresh ground nutmeg makes it superlative!"
' See Gl ossary
233
/
'
|
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/
Hal
f
Shell Raw Bar
Kev Wes
Al l of Key West i s good for i mmersi ng yoursel f i n l ocal
col or, but one of your most memorabl e experi ences may
very wel l be at the Hal f Shel l Raw Bar. Here' s where many
commerci al f i shermen congregate, and l u nch i s as l i kel y to
be somet hi ng u nexpected, fresh from the catch, as i t i s to be
somet hi ng al ready on the menu.
Fi shi ng i s pretty much a way of l i fe, a raison d'etre. Stri ke
up a conversat i on wi t h a chap anywhere i n town, and
chances are good he' s ei ther done some pretty seri ous
f i shi ng or i s thi n ki ng about i t . And chances are even better
he' l l be a regu l ar at the Hal f Shel l , al ong wi t h fol ks from al l
wal ks of l i fe and j ust about every popu l at i on segment you
can name i n the Keys. I t ' s t rul y a pl ace where anyone can go
wi th anyone and be comfortabl e.
The Hal f Shel l Raw Bar i s somet hi ng l i ke a beach bar, wi t h
bri ck and concrete f l oors, pi cni c tabl es wi t h ol d hatch
covers for tops, and nauti cal decor l i n i ng t he wal l s and cei l
i ngs-sponges, l anterns, f i sh heads, and l i nes. I t ' s a t radi
ti on that whenever the Si ghtseei ng t rai n whi st l es out front,
whoever i s si tt i ng nearest the l i ne attached to a shi p' s bel l at
235
the counter must reach u p to the l i ne to ri ng t he bel l . I t' s
al so a t radi t i on to take snapshots of the peopl e i n your party
posi ng at the "photo board" in front of the restau rant.
Owners Karl Coxhead and Pau l Tri pp, ori gi nal l y f rom Mon
treal and Mi chi gan, respect i vel y, manage to keep al l the
commoti on i n tow. Paul had previ ousl y operated a l ocal
guest house, and Karl , who had vacat i oned many t i mes i n
Key West, grew up i n a fami l y that had al ways been i n the
restaurant busi ness. Pau l ' s dad works wi th them here, too.
Karl , by the way, i s al so a mi me, and you ' l l see hi m i n l ocal
t heatri cal performances when he has the t i me.
You won' t f i nd any run-of-the-mi l l seafood preparat i ons
here, so you mustn 't be rel uctant t o try new taste sensa
t i ons. For exampl e: gr i l l ed swordf i sh, outstandi ng conch
chowder, " pi nk gol d" (shri mp), snapper al mondi ne, mako or
bl ack t i p shark, shark bi tes, smoked conch, oysters from
Apal achi col a, barbecue t una sal ad . . . whatever the seas may
yi el d. Those fri ed t hi ngs that l ook l i ke oni on ri ngs and are
seasoned wi t h garl i c and l i me? They' re squi d ri ngs, u nex
pectedl y tasty.
One t hi ng you won 't f i nd on the Hal f Shel l ' s menu i s t urtl e,
as the speci es of sea turtl e found i n l ocal waters i s protected
by Fl ori da l aw. There' s a great ecol ogi cal sensi t i vi ty about
mari ne l i fe i n the Keys, and you ' l l be encouraged to adopt
those concerns as your own when you real ize that human
systems are del i catel y i nterwoven wi th al l ot her l i vi ng
systems.
I n the fi nal anal ysi s, i f i t' s good, f resh, and permi ssi bl e by
l aw, the Hal f Shel l wi l l have your choi ce of seafood.
Directions: The Half Shell Raw Bar is at No. 1 Land's End
Village. Take U. S. 1 all the way into town to Duval Street and
tur right. Tur right again on Caroline, then left on Margaret
Street all the way to the end.
While you're here: Just across from the restaurant are the
historic Turtle Kraal s and museum. "Kraals " is a Dutch word
meaning holding pen or corral. Stakes used to be driven into
the ocean and the turtles destined to be made into soup
were dropped into the pens to be held for slaughter. Today,
the Department of Natural Resources periodically sends 50
young sea turtles to the marina in an effort to prevent the
species ' extinction.
236
SQUI D RINGS
Half Shell Raw Bar
Key West
(Al l ow 2 to 3 hours to mari nate and 1 hour for
breadi ng to set)
2 I bs. squi d *
MARI NADE
j uice of 3 Key l i mes (may substi tute other l i mes)
3 cl oves of garl i c, crushed and chopped fi ne
% t. freshl y ground bl ack pepper
Cl ean sq ui d * and cut i nto %-i nch r i ngs. Mi x wi t h
mari nade i ngredi ent s and mari nat e 2 t o 3 hours.
BATTER
2 eggs
1 C. mi l k
1 C. fl our
1 l b. fi ne cracker meal
Prepare an egg wash (eggs and mi l k mi xed). Dust
sq ui d wi t h f l our, di p f i rst i n egg wash, t hen i n
cracker meal . Refri gerate 1 hour for breadi ng t o set.
Deep fry to a gol den brown.
Serves: 4-6
Preparat i on: Mar i nate 2-3 hours, ref ri gerate
breadi ng 1 hour
liThe flavor is unusua/-a popular dish at the Half
Shell!"
'To clean squi d, remove the spi ny transl ucent portion and then pul l head
and legs from the envel opel i ke coveri ng. Peel ski n from the body and cut
across the head above the eyes.
237
Half Shell Raw Bar
Key West
CONCH FRI ERS
1 l b. conch meat * , fresh or frozen, tenderized
% l arge green pepper
% medi um oni on
1 pi ckl ed jal apeno pepper, fi nel y chopped (or any
other hot pepper)
% 1 -l b. box or l ess of Aunt Jemi ma' s Complete
Pancake Mi x
peanut oi l for f rying (or vegetabl e oi l)
Coarsel y gr i nd l909/lZ90 conch meat i nto mi xi ng
bowl , ei t her wi t h a meat gri nder or a food processor.
Be caref ul t
o
keep t he j ui ce. Di ce green pepper and
oni on i nto Vwi nch squares. Pl ace green pepper and
oni on i n a si eve and bl anch 1 mi nute i n boi l i ng water.
Add g reen pepper, oni on, j al apeno, and pancake mi x
t o conch. Mi x t horoughl y, addi ng wat er i f necessary.
Al l ow to set f or 30 mi nutes. Wi t h smal l scoop or
hands, make bal l s about 1 i nch i n di ameter. Heat oi l
to 350 ` |. Deep fry fri tters, a few at a t i me, unt i l deep
gol den i n col or. Serve wi t h cocktai l sauce or chi l i
sauce.
Serves: 8-1 0
Preparat i on: 1 0 mi nutes (pl us 30 mi nutes f or batter
to rest)
Cooki ng: approxi matel y 3 mi n utes per batch
"If you can't get fresh conch, don't be afraid to use
frozen. Defrost it quickly by running it under cold
water. Be sure to pound the meat with a mallet to
tenderize, as grinding doesn't do the job. These
fritters make delectable hors d'oeuvres as well as a
special treat for the family."
Avai l abl e at most seafood markets, or write us for the name of a
suppl i er i n your area.
238
SMOKED FISH DIP
Half Shell Raw Bar
Key West
1 l b. smoked fi sh * (ki ngf i sh, marl i n, t una or
sai l fi sh)
1 stal k of cel ery
14 oni on
Tabasco sauce
mayonnai se
l i me jui ce
Gri nd smoked f i sh, cel ery and oni on i nt o a mi xi ng
bowl , usi ng t he paddl e of t he mi xer. Bl end at a sl ow
speed. Add enough mayonnai se to bi nd. Season wi t h
Tabasco and l i me j ui ce.
Serves: 6- 1 0 as an hors d' oeuvre
"Serve with crackers or in lettuce cups. "
Be sure t o remove bones.
239
Half Shell Raw Bar
Key West
KE LIME PIE
CRUST
4 oz. softened butter
2 C. graham cracker crumbs
% t. vani l l a extract
FI LLI NG
4 eggs, separated
1 6oz. can sweetened condensed mi l k
% C. Key l i me j ui ce
MERI NGUE
reserved egg whi tes
1 t. vani l l a extract
1 t . cream of tartar
% t. sal t
% C. superfi ne sugar
For crust : Bl end softened butter wi t h g raham cracker
crumbs and van i l l a extract . Spread and press mi xt ure
around bottom and si des of a 9-i nch pi e pan .
For f i l l i ng: Bl end egg yol ks and mi l k, t h en add Key
l i me j u i ce. Fol d i nto pi e shel l .
240
Half Shell Raw Bar
Key West
For meri ng ue: Beat egg whi tes unt i l frot hy. Add
van i l l a extract , cream of tartar and sal t and beat
sl i ght l y. Add sugar gradual l y, beat i ng wel l after each
addi t i on. Cont i nue beat i ng unt i l mi xt ure forms st i ff
peaks. Swi rl over pi e fi l l i ng and bake at 400 F. unti l
meri ngue i s brown, about 7 to 1 0 mi n utes.
Refri gerate i mmedi atel y.
Yi el ds: 1 9-i nch pi e
Preparat i on: 1 5-20 mi n utes
"Key Lime Pie is a real Florida treat. Fresh Key limes
are found in season in some Florida supermarkets.
Buy them when they are available, squeeze and
freeze the juice for future use. "
241
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Key West
For t hose who t hi n k of Key West as a ki nd of romant i c
retreat, a haven to qui et l y go about dOi ng your own t hi ng and
wi t hout anyone botheri ng you, there' s a pl ace f or you.
For t hose who woul d rat her get a feel f or t he i sl and' s
l ei sure pace over fri endl y chi t-chat, a newspaper and coffee,
ami d some of the nat i ve pl ants and f l owers, there' s a pl ace
for you .
And for those who prefer to take thei r t i me over a l i ght ,
ni cel y prepared meal i n a sl i ght l y offbeat, f unky envi ron
ment , there' s a pl ace f or you .
Al l of these needs can be met at Pepe' s Cafe, t he ol dest
eat i ng pl ace i n Key West, i n busi ness si nce 1 909. It has ap
peal ed al l these years to l ocal pol i t i cal gurus, ki ds, cou pl es,
arti sti c types, and whoever el se wanders i n . I t' s been at i ts
present l ocat i on si nce 1 962 and i s now owned by Mol l y and
Eddi e Hogan , who came here from Mart ha' s Vi neyard i n
1 975. Mol l y i s an art i st hersel f, and you' l l see some of her
pen and i nk sketches by the entrance to the caf
e
.
You' l l al so not i ce the gi ant cei l i n g fan, nearl y 1 0 feet i n
d i ameter. I t' s constructed f rom a washi ng machi ne motor
242
and handmade paddl es. "Son of" the gi ant cei l i ng fan,
several feet away, i s j ust an ordi nary uni t .
The ambi ance created by the rust i c wood panel i ng on the
i nteri or, wooden booths and f i repl ace i nvi tes you to make
yoursel f at home. Outsi de, protected from roadsi de passers
by vi a canvas and a fence, i s the cafe' s greatest charm, a
pat i o garden shaded by rubber trees and mu l t i - col ored bou
gai nvi l l ea. I n the back i s the cafe' s own herb garden, whi ch
suppl i es the freshest seasoni ngs.
Menu fare changes wi t h the season, l i ghter di shes bei ng
served i n the summer, but some are served al l year. A
revi ewer from the Philadelphia Enquirer raved about the
chi cken l i vers and scrambl ed eggs; Cosmopolitan l i ked the
chi l i . The vari at i ons on a theme performed wi t h pancakes
and omel ets are qu i te sat i sfyi ng, and you ' l l be torn between
choosi ng the Cuban coffee pi e or the Cuban banana cream
pi e. Di n ners and mai n courses show a l ot of i magi nat i on,
wi t h occasi onal appearances by "guest chefs. " Key l i mes
for pi e are home-grown, and the bananas come f rom a l ocal
source.
Do partake !
Directions: Pepe 's Cafe is at 806 Caroline Street. Take U. S.
1 all the way into town. Turn right on Duval Street, the main
downtown avenue. Then tur right on Caroline Street, to ad
dress. Pepe 's Cafe is on the right.
While you're here: There are so many things to see and do
in the historic Old Town. Sightseeing trains are a good way
to begin. Then you can go back to favorite spots on your
own, comfortably walking or bicycling around the entire
island. Ernest Hemi ngway, Tennessee Erni e Wi l l i ams, and
John James Audubon all spent time here, and their homes
are restored and open to the public. The preponderance
of 19th-century conch-style wooden architecture, which
blends intricate Victorian design with practical construction
with an eye to the weather, makes you wonder why anyone
would ever want to build any other way here. In 1 870 Key
West was Florida 's largest city, but today, the "Conch
Republic " is known primarily as a resort area, perhaps the
most romantic in the state. Here 's the perfect wedding just
as our publisher did it: get married on a yacht on one of the
romantic channels, have it all catered by the locals, then sail
off for a 10 hour cruise!
243
Pepe 's Cafe
Key West
AVOCADO-BACON-SWISS CHEESE OMELE
3 eggs
3 T. hal fand hal f
dash Tabasco
salt and peper to taste
2 T. ri pe avocado, di ced
1 oz. grated Swi ss cheese
1 sl i ce cri sp bacon
Combi ne f i rst 4 i ngredi ent s and beat wel l . Pour i nto
wel l -oi l ed omel et pan and cook over medi um heat
unt i l puffy. Add avocado, cheese, and crumbl ed
bacon. Serve ei t her open-faced or fol ded over.
Serves: 1
"Let the cheese melt a bit before serving. "
244
HOUSE DRESSI NG
% head garl i c, peel ed
7 C. water
%-1 bunch di l l , chopped (stems removed)
1 % cucumbers, peel ed and cut up
1 % C. sour cream
1 % C. mayonnai se
Pepe's Cafe
Key West
Bl end garl i c wi t h water i n a bl ender or food
processor. Add di l l and cucumbers, t hen t he sour
cream. Bl end t horoughl y. Pour i nto a bowl and st i r i n
mayonnai se. Add sal t and pepper t o tast e. Store i n
refri gerator.
Yi el ds: about % gal l on
"This would also taste good over leftover or cold
poached fish!"
245
Pepe's Cafe
Key West
HUEVOS RNCHEROS SAUCE
% C. oni ons, chopped
% C. green pepper, chopped
1 T. vegetabl e oi l
sal t and pepper
pi nch of basi l and garl ic powder
1 t . cumi n
1 28oz. can crushed tomatoes
Saut
e
oni ons and peppers i n oi l unt i l soft . Add
spi ces and t omatoes. Cont i nue cooki ng over l ow
heat unt i l f l avors mel d.
Cooki ng: 1 0 mi nut es
"This sauce can be served over eggs or grits. We
baked thin pork chops for 35 minutes with
1 tablespoon of sauce per chop to keep them moist
and then poured the rest of the sauce over the chops
before serving. Add a few drops of Tabasco for extra
dash. "
246
SEFOOD STI R FR
4 T. peanut oi l
Pepe's Cafe
Key West
2 C. any combi nati on shri mp, l obster, or crab
(cl eaned)
1 C. sl i ced mushrooms
7 C. sl i ced green pepper
2 C. bok choy or Chi nese cabbage
2 C. mungbean sprouts
1 C. shredded cabbage (red or green)
% C. sl i ced cel ery
% C. sl i ced carrots
% C. sl i ced broccol i or yel low squash
% C. sherry
% C. Tamari *
% t. ground gi nger
Heat 2 tabl espoons peanut oi l i n wok over hi gh heat .
St i r fry seafood and remove to hot pl atter. Drai n pan.
Heat remai ni ng 2 tabl espoons of oi l . Add vegetabl es,
sherry, Tamari , and gi nger. St i r f ry unt i l vegetabl es
are done, about 3-5 mi nutes. Add hot seafood to
vegetabl es and serve over ri ce.
Serves: 6-8
"Use any amount of vegetables that appeal to you. "
*Tamari can be purchased i n heal th food stores. Soy sauce can be used
as a substi tute.
247
Cutt i ng down the Saba | Pal m "Swamp Cabbage," Fl ori da (Fl ori da
State Archi ves)
Flora and Ella
'
s
Restaurant
lBelle
Remember i n ol d-t i me movi es and stori es about Ameri cana
how there was al ways one pl ace i n town where you coul d go
for j ust about al l your busi ness-to buy groceri es, mai l a
l etter, buy a bus t i cket, purchase a few sundri es, si p an i ce
cream soda or mal t for two, or stop i n for di nner? Those
pl aces are j ust about gone now, except for an occasi onal
"fi nd. " Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant i s such a t reasure.
That' s Fl ora Hampton and El l a Burchard, and vari ous
rel ati ves who make up the Pool e fami l y whi ch i s now i n i ts
seventh generati on i n thi s part of Fl ori da. About the onl y
peopl e who were i n LaBel l e before Fl ora and El l a' s grand
parents were the Cal oosa I ndi ans, who were dri ven out duri ng
t he Semi nol e Wars. Sett l ement i n LaBel l e peaked i n 1 880 as
steamboats al ong the Cal oosahatchee Ri ver brought new
resi dents. The restaurant t races i ts begi nni ngs to the grocery
store and meat market run by Fl ora and El l a' s parents dur i ng
t he Depressi on.
The bi g events of each decade al l affected busi ness, from
the devastat i ng hurri canes of the 1 920s to the Great Depres
si on and Worl d War I I . The restaurant act ual l y opened i n a l og
249
cabi n i n 1 933. I ts i mmedi ate predecessor was a l i ttl e ham
burger stand wi th hand-carved pi ne f urn i shi ngs.
Today t he restaurant represents a t r i p back i n t i me, wi th
al most everyt hi ng the same as i t' s al ways been. Even the
Western Uni on offi ce the Burchard fami l y runs i s the ol dest i n
Fl ori da. And the menu i ncl udes pi oneer del i ghts, wi th more
ways to enj oy swamp cabbage than anyone has a ri ght to
i magi ne.
Other Cracker food speci al ti es at Fl ora and El l a' s do
j usti ce t o Southern and soul food tradi ti ons, al l fi xed t he
same way as they've been si nce t he 1 940s. No doubt thei r
knowl edge of season i ngs has been i nf l uenced by t hei r grand
mother, who, back i n the 1 880s, was a doctor of sorts and
fami l i ar wi th al l the herbs that grew i n the woods nearby. But
i t' s thei r l usci ous pi es that they' re most known for, says El l a.
Whether or not you have Fl ori da roots you rsel f, t hi s i s one
pl ace where you can enri ch your understandi ng of the state' s
hi story and smal l town heri tage.
Directions: Flora and Ella's Restaurant is on SR 29, at the
junction of Bridge and Fort Thompson. LaBelle is about 25
miles east of Fort Myers, reached from 1- 75 by going east on
SR 80. From 80, tur north on 29. The restaurant is on the
west side of the road, a block and a half before you get to the
bridge.
While you're here: The area is renowned for its annual
Swamp Cabbage Festival in February. About 45 miles to the
east in Lake Harbor is the Miami Canal Lock state historic
site and museum, with displays that interpret Everglades
reclamation and conservation programs. Flooding from Lake
Okeechobee and hurricanes have been consistent problems
and have been immortalized in a song by Florida 's "Black Hat
Troubadour" Will McLean: "Lord, hold back the waters of
Lake Okeechobee/Lake Okeechobee's water is cold/When
wild winds are blowin ' across Okeechobee/They're seeking
and looking for other poor souls. " Today, acres of reclaimed
lands are harvested frequently during the year for vegetables
and sugar.
250
SWAMP CABBAGE
Flora and Ella'a
LaBelle
2 or 3 meaty pieces of ham hock or other seasoning
meat
2 to 4 swamp cabbages * (or 2 cans hearts of pal m,
rinsed and drained)
water
salt to taste
garlic salt to taste
black pepper to taste
rice (optional)
dash of Tabasco sauce
Cover the ham hock wi t h water and si mmer for
30 mi nutes i n order to create a stock. Pl ace swamp
cabbage i n pot and add addi t i onal water to cover, i f
needed. Taste to see i f sal t i s needed. Add garl i c sal t
and pepper. Cover and bri ng to a sl ow boi l . Reduce
heat and si mmer for 30 ' mi nutes or unt i l cabbage i s
tender. I f amount of cabbage i s l i mi ted or i f you prefer
i t wi thout much "j ui ce, " add a cup or two of ri ce after
cabbage boi l s. St i r occasi onal l y to prevent sti cki ng.
Add water, i f necessary, to mai ntai n desi red texture.
About 2 mi nutes before servi ng, add a dash of
Tabasco. St i r wel l .
Serves: 3-6
"If you are using canned hearts of palm: simmer with
stock, garlic salt, and pepper until just heated
through. Add Tabasco and rice (which has been
cooked separately) just before serving. "
"Raw swamp cabbage must be cooked down l i ke greens. Al l ow 1 gal l on
greens per 2 quarts desi red. See Appendi x for i nformati on on obtai ni ng
thi s stateprotected pl ant.
2 5 1
Flora and Ella 's
LaBelle
SWAMP CABBAGE SALD
(Allow 6 oz. after preparati on per servi ng)
raw swamp cabbage* or canned (drai ned and
rinsed)
salt water (strong)
hardboi l ed egg
pi ckl es
mayonnaise
other fresh salad vegetables
If usi ng raw cabbage, f i rst soak i n sal t water about
20 mi nutes. Drai n and ri nse. Add remai n i ng
i ngredi ents and mi x.
llif you prefer, substitute oil and vinegar for
mayonnaise. You'll like the crunchiness. "
' One head wi l l serve 8 wi t h hearty appetites. See Appendi x f or i nformati on
on obtai ni ng t hi s stateprotected pl ant.
707
Flora and Ella 's
LaBelle
SWAMP CABBAGE WI POTATOES
raw swamp cabbage * (allow 6 oz. after preparation
per servi ng)
sal t water (strong)
potatoes, peel ed and quartered
cured ham, cut i n 2i nch pi eces
oni ons (opti onal )
Soak raw cabbage i n strong sal t wat er 20 mi n utes.
Drai n and ri nse wel l . Add remai ni ng i ngredi ent s.
Cook over medi um heat unt i l done.
Serves: depends on si ze of cabbage head
Hlf you use canned hearts of palm, just drain and
rinse before using. (Do not soak.)"
See Appendi x for i nformat i on on obtai ni ng t hi s state'protected pl ant. Or
substi tute canned hearts of pal m.
253
Flora and Ella 's
LaBelle
SOUR CREM CAKE
1 C. butter (do not substi tute)
3 C. sugar
6 eggs, separated, whi tes sti ffl y beaten
3 C. al l - purpose fl our
1 C. sour cream
% t. baki ng soda
1 t. vani l l a
1 t. al mond extract
Cream butter and sugar unt i l very creamy. Add egg
yol ks, 1 at a t i me, beat i ng wel l after each addi t i on.
Si f t f l our 3 t i mes. Add baki ng soda to sour cream and
st i r. Add f l our and sour cream al ternat el y to butter
sugar-egg mi xt ure. Bl end wel l after each addi t i on.
Add f l avori ngs and f ol d i n st i f f l y beat en egg whi t es.
Pour i nto wel l -greased, l i ght l y f l oured t ube pan. Bake
1 % hours at 300 F. Cool on a rack.
Yi el ds: 1 cake
Preparat i on: about 1 5-20 mi nutes
Cooki ng: 1 % hours
` combination of sugar, cinnamon, and nuts can be
sprinkled on top of cake about Z minutes before
cake is done_ "
254
2 C. sugar
1 C. water
LEMON MERI NGUE PIE
% C. l emon j ui ce
1 t . l emon extract
% C. butter or margari ne
pi nch sal t
1 C. water
Flora and Ella's
LaBelle
5 egg yol ks (save whi tes for meri ngue)
8 T. cornstarch
1 baked 9%i nch pi e shel l
Combi ne f i rst 6 i ngredi ents i n a medi umsi ze
saucepan. Br i ng to a boi l over medi um to medi um
hi gh heat, st i rr i ng occasi onal l y. Meanwhi l e, mi x
second cup of water wi t h cornstarch and egg yol ks.
Bl end wi t h fork u nt i l smooth . Pour qui ckl y i nto
boi l i ng mi xt ure, st i rri ng constant l y unt i l t hi ckened.
Pour i nto pi e shel l , cool sl i ght l y, and t op wi t h
meri ngue (see reci pe page 257).
Yi el ds: 1 9%-i nch pi e
"Out of this world in richness! It makes a beautiful
presentation to set before your family and friends. "
255
Flora and Ella's
LaBelle
COCONU PIE
1 9 i nch baked pi e shel l
1 C. shredded coconut
1 % C. sugar
1 1 3oz. can evaporated mi l k
1 1 3oz. can water (reserve half)
1 t. vani l l a
1 T. butter or margari ne
pi nch sal t
5 T. cornstarch
5 egg yol ks (save whi tes for meri ngue)
1 reci pe for meri ngue (see page 257)
Prepare pi e shel l , bake, and cool .
Combi ne next 7 i ngredi ent s i n a medi u m- si ze
saucepan. Br i ng to a boi l over medi um to medi u m
hi gh heat , st i rr i ng occasi onal l y. Meanwhi l e, mi x
remai n i ng hal f can of wat er wi t h cornstarch and egg
yol ks. Bl end wi t h a fork unt i l smoot h . Pour
cornstarch- egg yol k mi xt ure qu i ckl y i nto boi l i ng
mi xt ure. St i r constant l y unt i l t hi ckened. Pour i nto pi e
shel l . Pi l e meri ngue onto hot pi e f i l l i ng and bake for
8 mi nutes at 400 F.
Yi el ds: 1 9-i nch pi e
Cooki ng: about 1 0 mi nutes
"Forget your diet! This is too good to pass up. It's a
feast for the eyes as well and will assure you a
reputation as a pie baker extraordinaire! "
256
Flora and Ella's
LaBelle
MERI NGUE FOR COCONUT OR LEMON PIE
5 egg whi tes
% t. vani l l a for coconut pi e or % t . l emon extract for
l emon pi e
% t. cornstarch
% t. cream of tartar
pi nch sal t
% C. sugar
Combi ne al l i ngredi ent s except sugar i n a l arge
mi xi ng bowl and beat unt i l frot hy. Add sugar
gradual l y and cont i nue beat i ng unt i l st i ff peaks form
and sugar i s total l y di ssol ved. Spoon mer i ngue over
pi e, maki ng sure edges are seal ed wi t h mer i ngue.
Bake f or about 8 mi nutes i n a 400 F. oven, j ust unt i l
l i ght l y browned. Wat ch baki ng t i me caref ul l y. Cool
pi e gradual l y i n a warm pl ace away from drafts.
Yi el ds: meri ngue for 1 pi e
Preparat i on: about 1 0 mi nutes
Cooki ng: about 8 mi nutes
UStart the meringue while pie mixture is cooking. The
pie filling should be hot when you cover it with the
meringue. "
257
Flora and Ella's
LaBelle
ELL'S PECAN PIE
1 gi nch pi e shel l , unbaked
5 eggs
1 C. white sugar
1 C. whi te corn syrup
% t . sal t
1 t. vani l l a
2 T. mel ted butter or margari ne
1 C. chopped pecans (or 1 C. chopped wal nuts)
Prepare a 9-i nch pi e shel l . Do not bake.
Break eggs i nto a l arge mi xi ng bowl and beat wel l .
Add sugar, corn syrup, sal t , vani l l a, and butter, one
i ngredi ent at a t i me, beat i ng wel l after each addi t i on.
St i r i n pecans. Pour i nto pi e shel l and bake about
1 hour at 350 F. Pi e f i l l i ng wi l l set and be f i rm when
done.
Yi el ds: 1 9- i nch pi e
Preparat i on: about 1 0 mi nutes (pl us t i me f or maki ng
pi e shel l )
Cooki ng: about 1 hour
"This i s one of the best pecan pies we've ever
tasted. The extra eggs make it very light and
heavenly. Serve warm or at room temperature. Add
whipped cream or ice cream if you insist on gilding
the lily!"
258
Gator Grill
Marco Island
So much devel opment Ms occurred on Marco I sl and in re
cent years t hat i t ' s hard to fi nd an "ol der" nei ghborhood or
busi ness area. Condomi ni ums wi t h spectacu l ar vi ews of the
Gul f of Mexi co crowd the l and al ong the waterfront, and
suburban-styl e resort cl ubs have sprung up al l over the
i sl and.
But i f you fol l ow the di rect i ons bel ow very caref ul l y, you' l l
f i nd a di scovery i n a pl easant though otherwi se undi sti n
gui shed offi ce bui l di ng. The Gator Gri l l ' s parki ng l ot faces a
marshy pond where you can l i sten to the bul l frogs gul pi ng i n
harmony al l day and al l ni ght, and yes, there are al l i gators i n
the pond, so don' t take your pet for a wal k there.
The ' gator served at the Gri l l has on occasi on been caught
ri ght i n the Gri l l ' s own back yard, but be thou hereby advi sed
that state l aws are very strict regardi ng who may catch
al l i gators, under what ci rcumstances, and how they may be
sol d. The Gri l l even posts i ts own si gn that reads "Genu i ne
Fl ori da ' gator meat sol d by speci al permi ssi on of state, "
speci f i cal l y by the Game and Fresh Water Fi sh Commi ssi on
(see page 286).
259
Larry Amrhei n, owner of the Gri l l , says most of hi s ' gators
come from Napl es. He cuts the tai l i nto f i l l ets when the
l i censed trappers bri ng i n the meat, then re-bags and freezes
it unt i l i t' s to be cooked. Butchers i n Napl es do the gri ndi ng
and mi xi ng wi t h other i ngredi ents t o make ' gator bu rgers.
The rest of the menu i s seasonal and standard gri l l and
sandwi ch fare, but at great l ow pri ces. Larry doesn't want to
see busi ness go el sewhere, so he' s careful to keep the pri ces
down. Dependi ng on the ups and downs of the economy,
there can be l i nes of constructi on workers wi l l i ng to eat l unch
standi ng up when there' s no room to si t down.
Whi l e you're f i l l i ng u p on the eats, take a l ook at t he garage
sal e i tems neat l y on di spl ay i n one corner of the restau rant.
At one t i me or another, there' s been everyt hi ng from a pot
bel l i ed stove to a teddy bear to a gol f cart and who knows
what ot her odds ' n' ends. I f you happen to be a "snowbi rd, "
you' l l gr i n at another si gn cl ai mi ng a "$5 mi ni mum charge to
l i sten to ' how beaut i f ul , cheap and bi g everyt hi ng i s u p
north. ' "
Except the ' gators . . . .
Directions: The Gator Grill is at 30 Marco Lake Drive. To get
to Marco Island, take SR 92 from Royal Palm Hammock at
U. S. 41 (Tamiami Trai/, or CR 951 from Belle Meade at 41 .
Once you're on the island, take 951 t o the intersection with
Bald Eagle Road (CR 953) and tur left. When you see the
United Telephone Company building and antenna, tur left
onto Marco Lake Drive and follow the small yellow signs that
direct you to the Gator Grill at the back office buildings by the
lake. If you're coming from SR 92, tur right on CR 953 (Bald
Eagle) and right at the phone company.
While you're here: Marco Island is great for shelling and even
greater for watching the sunsets. Though it's a little bit of a
drive to get from Marco, at the norther tip of the Ten Thou
sand Islands, to Everglades City, it's worth the time. You can
take an Everglades boat tour or fishing trip or visit the
Evergl ades National Park, which contains almost a million
and a half acres of land and water with all manner of
mangrove trees, tropical flora and rare birds, game fish and
reptiles.
260
'GATOR BURGER
2-2% I bs. 'gator meat *
Gator Grill
Marco Island
% l b. l ean, mi l d I tal i an sausage i n bul k form
1 -2 eggs
% C. bread crumbs
sal t, pepper, garl i c, oni on sal t, Accent to taste
Gr i nd ' gator meat , normal l y a tough, f i ne and fat-free
meat . Add sausage to hol d meat toget her. Work i n
eggs, bread crumbs, and season i ngs t o taste. Mi x
t horoughl y. Make patt i es and gri l l , preferabl y on a f l at
surface i ndoors. Turn caref ul l y wi t h a spat ul a to avoi d
crumbl i ng. Serve on a rol l and si nk your teeth i nto the
' gator!
Serves: 4 to 6
Cooki ng: 1 5 to 20 mi nutes
"Not your everyday kind of ordinary burger-delicious!"
'Onl y statel icensed trappers may catch al l i gators i n Fl ori da, and onl y
restaurants may serve or sel l the meat, precooked. Thi s recipe i s presented
so you may better enjoy i t at the Gator Gri l l .
261
State Farmers Market
Restaurant
For Myers
Farmers' markets are among the best ways to experi ence a
state' s l ocal col or and farm fl avor. Fami l i es and t ruckers
di spl ay thei r produce in stal l s and pretty near hawk t hei r
pi cki n' s l i ke there' s no tomorrow. The onl y way t o get any
t hi ng fresher i s to be there on the farm and pi ck i t yoursel f.
At the State Farmers Market i n Fort Myers, several i nterme
di ate steps between farm and retai l establ i shment take pl ace,
namel y, wei ghi ng, i nspecti on and shi ppi ng. The adj acent
restaurant has catered to t ruckers, peopl e i n the food i n
dustry, fami l i es, and l ocal busi ness empl oyees for more than
a quarter of a century. Though the restaurant i s medi um
si zed, i t seems more l i ke a pl ace for a l arge fami l y gatheri ng,
wi t h guests cal l i ng out across t he room t o each other as they
see fami l i ar faces.
When Bi l l Barnwel l became the owner a few years ago, he
kept the same reci pes, staff, and customs the restaurant
al ways had. I t' s a tradi t i on to start every meal wi th an over
si zed basket of fresh cornbread and muffi ns, some 2,000 of
whi ch are consumed on a typi cal weekend day. And no one
wi l l bat an eyel ash i f you pop a coupl e i nto a napki n to take
wi th you, ei ther.
262
As you mi ght expect, the vegetabl es are country-fresh
di shes such as t urni p greens and squash casserole when
they' re i n season. For a ret urn to the spi ri t of the good U| '
days of Sunday di nner after church, you' l l feast on al l the ol d
Southern favori tes, accompani ed by three vegetabl es. I t' s
worth the wai t. Even i f you fi nd yoursel f shari ng tabl e space
wi th another fami l y, i t' s a f i ne way to make new fri ends.
Popul ar l ocal seafood favori tes start wi th Okeechobee cat
fi sh and the ubi qui tous mul l et and grouper.
For a "sl i ce of l i fe, " Fl ori da-styl e, t ry the State Farmers
Market Restaurant.
Directions: The State Farmers Market Restaurant is at 2736
Edison Avenue. From 1- 75, take the Anderson Avenue exit
west. Tur south on Fowler Street (Alterate U.S. 41), then
west on Edison Avenue to address. The restaurant is on the
south side of the road. Or you can take U. S. 41 (Cleveland
Avenue) and tur east on Anderson.
While you're here: Some of the main drives in Fort Myers are
lined with block after block of stately royal palm trees and are
some of the most scenic streets you'll see in any Florida city.
Ride around, then visit the Thomas Edison Winter Home,
complete with laboratory, botanical gardens and museum.
The giant banyan tree on its 14-acre estate is the largest in
the state. On 41 south of Fort Myers is an unusual Honeybee
Factor and glass-enclosed observatory where you can watch
the bees "in production " without getting stung.
263
State Farmers Market Restaurant
Fort Myers
OKR AND TOMATOES
1 l b. tomatoes, quartered
2 I bs. okra, tri mmed and sl iced i f large
1 oni on, chopped
1 T. sugar
Mel t margari ne or butter i n a pot. Add tomatoes, okra,
and oni on. Bri ng to a boi l . Cover and l et si mmer unt i l
okra i s tender. Whi l e t he vegetabl es are cooki ng,
mash t he tomatoes f rom t i me t o t i me. Season wi t h
sugar and sal t and pepper to taste.
Serves: 4-6
Preparati on: 5 mi nutes
"If you can't find fresh okra, use frozen, but rinse
before cooking to remove the ice crystals."
264
State Farmers Market Restaurant
Fort Myers
FRESH COLLRD GREENS
col l ard greens
enough water to cover
2 smal l ham hocks or 1 fat back, chopped
% C. bacon dri ppi ngs
% C. sugar
Wash greens at l east four t i mes to remove sand. Cut
greens i n smal l pi eces. Pl ace i n pot and cover wi th
water. Add ham hocks or fat back. Gent l y boi l for
2% hours or unt i l greens are tender. Add bacon
dri ppi ngs, sugar, sal t, and pepper to taste.
Serves: 6
Cooki ng: 2V2 hours
"Drain greens before adding the seasonings. This is
an authentic Southern dish!"
265
Butonood Bar-B-Q
Sanibel
For Greg and Di ane Steger, maki ng the career swi tch from
unrel ated occupati ons i nto the restaurant busi ness must
have been i n t hei r stars. When they moved to Fl ori da from
Detroi t, they were l ooki ng for a rewardi ng busi ness to get
i nto. Trai ned as a respi ratory therapi st , Di ane had previ ousl y
sol d t ropi cal f i sh, but that was thei r sol e pri or connec
ti on -and a remote one, at that -to anyt hi ng resembl i ng
seafood. Her mother and father owned t he Santi va Cottages,
across from the conveni ence store next door to where the
restaurant now stands. After she and Greg got sett l ed i n t hei r
new home, she began smoki ng mul l et at the Santi va Mi n i
Mart nearby.
Obvi ousl y, she was doi ng somet hi ng ri ght . After al l , she ad
mi ts, she does l ove to cook. Busi ness pi cked up, and soon
the whol e fami l y was i nvol ved. They expanded the men u.
Then, when Greg and Di ane real i zed t hat barbecue was
somet hi ng mi ssi ng on Sani bel and Capti va I sl ands, they
deci ded to open thei r Buttonwood Bar B-O.
They bui l t the l i ght, woodsy bui l di ng from scratch and
pl astered thei r customers' dol l ar bi l l s al l over one wal l i n the
266
bar area. Watercol ors by l ocal arti sts add a pl easant col or
contrast, and the ambi ence is cozy and rusti c, rather l i ke what
you ' d expect Grandma' s country pl ace to be.
From its ori gi n as a carry-out operat i on, the Buttonwood
now does a heal thy si t-down busi ness. By t ri al and error
they've found what works best in thei r reci pes, someti mes
changi ng the ori gi nal i ngredi ents. Bl ack grouper, shark, and
trout are a few of the seafood di shes avai l abl e, and they' re
al ways fresh.
But the di sti ncti ve taste of thei r barbecue comes from
buttonwood smoke. You' l l read on the menu that Conocarpus
Erecta, the buttonwood t ree, is found on t hese i sl ands in the
transi t i onal zones separat i ng salt-water mangroves from
fresh-water pl ants. Its fl avor, when used for smoki ng fi sh,
game, and other meat , i s more del i cate than t hat of hi ckory.
The restaurant uses smal l er pi eces of the wood gl eaned from
t hi nni ng and tri mmi ng the trees rather than choppi ng down
whol e trees, as the si ze of these chi ps i s more conveni ent.
Greg says t hey constantl y stri ve for consi stency i n thei r
cooki ng, whi ch is one reason they've earned a good reputa
ti on. The cabbage for the col e sl aw i s hand cut , and you can
tel l that Di ane especi al l y l oves to bake j ust by l ooki ng at the
dessert tray fu l l of the day' s creati ons.
I t' s worth the tri p out to the pass between Sani bel and
Capt i va.
Directions: The Buttonwood Bar B-Q is at 6410 Pine Road.
You've shelled out your greenbacks for the toll over the
Sanibel Causeway (SR 867), which is called Periwinkle Way
through Sanibel. Follow 867 approximately 10 miles to the
restaurant, just off the main road.
While you're here: The twin islands of Sanibel and Captiva
are unparalleled for exotic shelling, and visitors often retur
home with the stooping posture of beachcombers. Wildlife
photographers and nature enthusiasts will have a field day at
the peaceful J_ N_ "Di ng" Darl i ng National Wi l dl i fe Refuge,
another unsurpassed natural resource.
267
Buttonwood Bar B-Q
Sanibel Island
SMOKED MULLE
(Al l ow t i me to soak ahead)
fresh whole mul l et
sal t
pepper
garl i c
papri ka
Remove f ul l f i l l et from each si de of f i sh. Leave ski n
and scal es on to act as a retai ner f or j ui ces. Soak
f i l l ets approxi mat el y 2 hours i n sal t water. Remove
and pl ace on gri l l i n smoker. Season wi t h sal t ,
pepper, garl i c, and papri ka to taste. Smoke wi t h
buttonwood mangrove * , i f avai l abl e, and cook unt i l
f l aky, about 3 t o 4 hours at 1 95 F.
Serves: 1 -2
Preparat i on: 2 hours to soak
Cooki ng: 3 to 4 hours
"Don't leave Florida without trying iff"
May substi t ute other
268
Buttonwood Bar B-Q
Sanibel Island
SMOKED MULLE SPRED
2-3 f i l l ets smoked mul l et
% C. chopped oni on
% C. chopped green pepper
% C. chopped cel ery
2 a-oz. pkgs. cream cheese
%-% C. mayonnai se
horseradi sh to taste
papri ka
Peel f i sh f rom ski n and break i nt o smal l pi eces. Set
asi de. Add al l i ngredi ent s to cream cheese and mi x
toget her to a smoot h consi stency. Add smoked
mul l et. Form i nt o a bal l and spri nkl e wi t h papri ka.
Refri ge rate.
Serves: 6 as an hors d' oeuvre
Preparat i on: 1 0 mi nutes (al l ow t i me for ch i l l i ng)
"Wonderful on crackers or as a spread for a
sandwich! "
269
Buttonwood Bar B-Q
Sanibel
sur ONWOOD CARROT CAKE
2 C. al l purpose fl our
1 % C. sugar
2 T. baki ng soda
2 T. ci nnamon
1 T. baki ng powder
% T. sal t
4 large eggs
1 C. mayonnai se (to make cake moi st)
3 C. coarsel y grated carrots, peel ed
% C. pecans
Grease and f l our an 8-cup bundt pan. Mi x al l dry
i ngredi ent s together. Add eggs and mayonnai se and
cont i nue beat i ng. St i r i n carrots and pecans. Reserve
2 tabl espoons of the batter to add to frost i ng. Pour
remai ni ng bat ter i nto bundt pan. Bake at 350 F. for
45-55 mi nutes or unt i l a cake tester i nserted i nto t he
mi ddl e comes out cl ean. Frost cake when cool wi t h
Cream Cheese Frost i ng on next page.
270
Buttonwood Bar B-Q
Sanibel
CREAM CHEESE FROSTI NG (makes about 2 cups)
2 3oz. packages cream cheese at room temperature
2 T. reserved carrot cake batter
2 C. confecti oners sugar, si fted if l umpy
1 T. vani l l a ext ract
Beat cream c heese and batter in a medi um-size bowl
at medi u m speed unt i l no l u mps remai n . Add sugar
and vani l l a. Beat at hi gh speed unt i l f l uffy. Spread
over cake. You may have to add addi t i onal sugar to
get a spreadabl e consi stency.
Yi el ds: 1 cake
"This is a rich cake that is not too spicy. If you
prefer one that is spicier, add more cinnamon and a
tablespoon of nutmeg."
271
Buttonwood Bar B-Q
Sanibel
SE TROUT OR GROUPER IN BEER BAIER
1 cup sel f-ri si ng fl our, pl us extra for di ppi ng
1 1 2-oz. can beer
1 T. baki ng powder
pi nch of sal t and paprika
4-6 fish fi l l ets
Combi ne 1 cup of f l our and al l ot her i ngredi ent s
except f i sh i n a l arge bowl and mi x wel l . Di p f i sh
f i l l ets i n f l our, t ap l i ght l y wi t h a kni fe so t hat t he
f l our adheres. Then di p f i sh i n batter. Deep fry unt i l
gol den brown .
Serves: 4-6
Cooki ng: Depends upon t hi ckness of f i sh
"This is a light and delicious batter. Be sure not to
overcook the fish. We usually open the beer about an
hour before using, to get rid of some of the air
bubbles. "
272
Te Crab Trap
Palmeto
I t' s a common si ght on a summer eveni ng to see pai rs of
ki ds or fami l i es ambl i ng out by a pi er or i nto a marshy area
near bracki sh water. They' l l be armed wi t h di p-nets and cane
pol es, and hunks of f i sh or raw chi cken as bai t to catch a
bucketf ul of bl ue crabs for di nner. Bl ue crab i s one of some
4, 500 speci es of crab worl dwi de and one t hat ' s especi al l y
popul ar i n Fl ori da.
Caught commerci al l y, t hree shi pments of bl ue crabs
come i n every week from Punta Gorda and are sent to The
Crab Trap, where t hey end up i n an assort ment of wi nni ng
di shes fi xed as many ways as you can i magi ne. Owners
Margaret and Lee Cl i ne, formerl y from t he Chesapeake Bay
area, have brought t hei r Maryl and reci pes wi t h t hem to
adapt to what' s caught l ocal l y. Lee has a penchant for
t hi ngs t hat are di fferent, ref l ected i n t he European and
Cari bbean names appl i ed to some of t he ent rees.
I n addi t i on to the vari ety of crab di shes, you' l l f i nd pl enty
of Fl ori da reg i onal fare rang i ng f rom ' gator and cooter to
shark and swordf i sh, al l dependi ng on the season and avai l
abi l i ty. Even t he si de di shes are di fferent -crab fri tters,
273
scal l oped bananas, and cl am-stuffed mushrooms. One of
t he tri cks the Cl i nes have l earned i s to use mayon nai se to
baste the f i sh before broi l i ng or fryi ng so that t he nat ural
f l avor i s "seal ed i n. "
Be prepared to wai t for a seat. Lee' s phi l osophy i s to take
the t i me requi red for each order to prepare i t "excepti onal l y, "
rather t han to rush t hrough the cooki ng and end up wi th onl y
medi ocre resul ts. You won' t mi nd the wai t , though, i n the
l arge and comfortabl e l ounge area.
Take i n the wal l decor before you' re seated at a tabl e.
Agai n , you ' l l not i ce t he CI i nes' "di fferent " touch. The
l i ght i ng fi xtures are or i gi nal creat i ons that Lee made out of
f i sh traps. Cypress knees and cedar grace t he wal l s, covered
wi t h woven grass and reeds. The hand- crafted exot i c bi rds
come from St . Croi x. The cork on t he booths i sn' t j ust for
decorat i ve purposes; i t provi des good acoust i cs as wel l .
Don 't be surpri sed i f you' re asked for an opi ni on on a new
d i sh t he Cl i nes may be t ryi ng out. On the other hand, don 't
by shy about suggest i ng a di sh for them to test !
Directions: The Crab Trap is located directly on U.S. 19 in
Palmetto, north of Bradenton and Sarasota, two miles south of
the south toll plaza of the Skyway Bridge into St. Petersburg.
While you're here: Just a few miles ' hop across to U.S. 301
is the Judah P. Benjami n Confederate State Hi storic Site at
Gambl e Pl antati on. The mansion was built i n the late 1840s
by Major Robert Gamble, a successful officer during the
Second Seminole War. For a time the plantation was the
leading producer of sugar and molasses in Florida. It's fully
restored with pre-Civil War furishings. There are picnic
facilities outdoors.
274
The Crab Trap
Palmetto
CLM-STUFFED MUSHROOMS
1 0 oz. fresh cl ams, cooked and mi nced
about 3% oz. l i quor (brandy recommended)
1 C. I tal i an or pl ai n bread crumbs
% C. vermouth
% C. butter or margari ne, mel ted
oregano to taste
% C. fi nel y chopped cel ery
% to % C. grated Romano cheese
% C. Parmesan cheese
1 2- 1 8 l arge, fresh mushrooms, stems removed
Combi ne al l i ngredi ent s except mushrooms. Stuff
i nto mushrooms and bake at 400 ` |. for
10 to 15 mi n utes. Serve pi
p
i ng hot.
Serves: 4-6 as an hors d' oeuvre
Cooki ng: 1 0-1 5 mi nutes
"Before you add the oregano, be sure to crush it in
the palms of your hands to release the flavor.
fI
275
The Crab Trap
Palmetto
CRB I MPERIAL
1 % I bs. back fi n bl ue crab meat
3 T. butter
3 T. fl our
1 C. mi l k
1 C. mayonnai se
% t. sal t
" t. Tabasco Sauce
1 egg, wel l beaten
paprika
Pi ck over crab meat for shel l s and cart i l age. Set
asi de. Mel t butter. Bl end i n f l our. Cook, st i rr i ng
constant l y f or a mi nute or t wo. Add mi l k and cook,
st i rri ng unt i l t h i ck. Bl end i n mayon nai se and
season i ngs. Fol d i n beaten egg. Then gent l y fol d i n
t he crab meat . Spoon i nto i ndi vi dual crab or scal l op
shel l s or casserol es. Spri nkl e wi t h papri ka and bake
at 400 F. for 1 0 to 1 2 mi nutes or unt i l bubbl y.
Serves: 6
"This dish is light and delicate. It's perfect as a first
course or as a main dish. Add some parsley to
garnish and serve with a tossed salad and bread
sticks or hot garlic bread. "
276
GLOSSAR
Al l -purpose fl our Pl ai n f l our that has no salt or baki ng
powder added.
Blanch To parboi l for 30 to 60 seconds and then pl unge i n
col d water.
B
e
chamel (see Cream Sauce)
Brai se To cook sl owl y i n fat unt i l brown, t hen addi ng a
smal l amount of l i qui d, coveri ng and si mmer i ng.
Brown sauce/Sauce Espa
n
ol A r i ch beef stock reduced
and t hi ckened wi th roux. May be purchased as beef gravy.
Beurre mani
l
1 t. f l our mi xed wi t h 1 t. butter, for t hi cken
i ng soups and sauces. Shape i nto l i t t l e bal l s and freeze to be
used as needed.
Butterfly To cut agai nst t he grai n or cut l engt hwi se, l eav
i ng meat attached on one si de. Thi s is done for appearance
and to tenderi ze.
Chop/Dice/Mi nce -
Chop = 1 /4- i nch cubes
Di ce = 1 /8-i nch cu bes
Mi nce = smal l est cubes
Cl arify/Cl ari fi ed To make butter cl ear by heat i ng and
removi ng al l whey or sed i ment as i t ri ses to t he top. Then
caref ul l y st rai n. Cl ari f i ed butter wi l l keep for at l east a week
i f t i ght l y covered and refri gerated.
Crackermeal Fi ne meal made from crackers, f i ner than
cornmeal and used as a more del i cate coat i ng for meats_
Can be purchased or made from unsal ted soda crakers rol l ed
on a wooden board wi th a rol l i ng pan .
Cream sauce/B
e
chamel Wh i te sauce made wi t h mi l k.
1 T. butter
1 C. hot mi l k
1 T. f l our
sal t, pepper, nutmeg t o taste
Make roux of butter and f l our. Cook unt i l smoot h, about
2 mi nutes. Remove from heat . Sl owl y whi sk i n hot mi l k
unt i l smoot h. Cook 1 mi n ute more and season. (Yi el d:
1 cup)
277
Cream sauce i s B
e
chamel made wi t h cream i nstead of
mi l k. Vel out
e
i s B
e
chamel made wi t h whi te stock (such
as chi cken, veal , or f i sh) i n pl ace of mi l k.
Crepes Thi n pancakes (use bl ender or food processor).
3-4 eggs
1 C. f l our
1 % C. mi l k
% tsp. sal t
3 T. butter (mel ted)
Combi ne al l i ngredi ents i n processor and bl end unt i l
smoot h. Al l ow batter t o rest 1 hour before fryi ng. May
be kept i n refri gerator for 1 week. Al l ow 2 T. for each
cr
e
pe i n a 6- i nch pan.
Deep-fry To cook by i mmersi ng i n hot oi l or fat i n a pan
deep enough for oi l to cover food compl etel y.
De-glaze To pour l i qui d such as wi ne, water, or stock i n a
cooki ng pan, scrapi ng si des and bottom wi t h a wooden
spoon to l oosen resi due.
Demi-gl aze A reduced brown sauce.
Devei n To cl ean shri mp by removi ng bl ack f i l ament f rom
the back, before or after cooki ng.
Dredge/Dust/Fl our To di p i n or spri nkl e l i g ht l y wi th f l our.
Fatback Pure pork fat t hat i s cut from the back of the pi g,
fresh or sal t-cu red.
Fi l let/Fi let To cut or sl i ce f i sh t hat has been cl eaned,
deheaded, and scal ed down both si des of the backbone.
Bonel ess pi eces of meat or f i sh are cal l ed f i l l ets.
Fold To mi x one i ngredi ent i nto another sl owl y and gentl y,
wi thout breaki ng, as wi th egg whi tes that must be kept l i ght
and fl uffy.
Gl aze A t hi n, smoot h coat i ng such as mi l k, mel ted butter,
or other i ngredi ent brushed on top of food to g i ve i t a shi ny
appearance.
Grits A favori te si de d i sh for a Southern meal . They are
broken grai ns from corn homi ny, whi ch i s corn wi th the hul l
and germ removed.
Jul ienne To cut i nto t hi n matchst i ck-l i ke stri ps, or stri ps
that are so cut .
Knead To work a mass of dough i nto a uni form text ure by
fol di ng and pressi ng wi th t he heel s of your hands unt i l dough
i s smooth and el ast i c.
278
Mari nate To soak food i n l i qui d usual l y pi ckl ed wi t h vi n
egar or wi ne and oi l as wel l as spi ces and herbs that both add
fl avor and tenderize the meat or fi sh. The l i qui d i s cal l ed
mari nade.
Poach To si mmer gentl y i n hot l i qui d, to cover.
Pur
e
e To force food through a si eve or bl end i n food proc
essor unt i l smooth.
Reduce To cook or si mmer a l i qui d unti l i t i s l ess; to con
centrate fl avor.
Roux An equal amount of butter and fl our browned together
unti l smooth. Used to thi cken many sauces and gravi es.
Sal t Pork General l y pork fat cured i n sal t.
Saute To cook l i ghtl y i n an open, shal l ow pan, wi th a
smal l amount of butter or fat, browni ng evenl y and seal i ng i n
the j ui ces.
Score To make shal l ow cuts i n surface of meat.
Si mmer To cook i n water o other l i qui d bel ow or j ust at
the boi l i ng pOi nt.
Steam To expose to water vapor by cooki ng wi t h a smal l
amount of boi l i ng water i n a t i ghtl y covered pan.
279
FLORIDA BEEF
Say "beef" and most peopl e probabl y t hi nk of the Iowa
corn-fed vari ety. But Fl ori da has been rai si ng cattl e l onger
than any other state i n the country. I t al l started when Ponce
de Leon brought the f i rst Andal usi an catt l e to the New Worl d
i n the earl y 1 500s.
These f i rst scrub cows, forerunners of Texas Longhorns,
were not very bi g. Some hi stori ans sai d they were " ri di cu
l ous" i n appearance and not very good as beef or mi l k pro
ducers. But the cows were a hardy breed that coul d wi thstand
Fl ori da' s cl i mate and u nexpl ored wi l derness areas. Over the
centuri es, as breedi ng technol ogy i mproved, Fl ori da catt l e
i mproved t o the extent that cal ves are now shi pped t o two
t hi rds of the Uni ted States, the greatest number bei ng sent to
the Texas Panhandl e.
Fl ori da i s t he onl y state i n t he Southeast cl assed as a range
catt l e state. Whi l e today' s catt l e are kept i n l arge, fenced
pastures, wi l d- l ooki ng cowboys i n the ol d days used to herd
the cows by cracki ng t hei r whi ps as t hey rode. Accordi ng to
fol kl ore, they were ni cknamed "cracker cowboys, " l ater
shortened to j ust "cracker. " Nowadays Cracker al so means
someone who was born and rai sed i n Fl ori da.
The l argest producer of beef i n the Southeast, Fl ori da has
recent l y concentrated on crossbreedi ng Brahmans wi th
Engl i sh or Cont i nental breeds and other purebred stock.
Restaurants servi ng steaks and chops are popul ar especi al l y
i n the "heart l and" area between Ocal a, Lake Okeechobee,
and the century-ol d cow town, Ki ssi mmee. The cow camp at
the Lake Ki ssi mmee State Recreat i on Area, accessi bl e from
U. S. 27 near Lake Wal es (cal l the recreat i on area for di rec
ti ons) , i s a col orf ul re-creat i on of what t hi s aspect of Cracker
l i fe was l i ke.
280
FRESH FLORIDA FRUITS
AND CITRUS
Fl ori da produces nearl y 80 percent of al l the oranges
grown i n the country and two-t hi rds of the country' s total
ci trus crop. Hal f of the crop i s frozen as j u i ce concentrate, as
j ui ce, of course, i s what the Fl ori da orange i s best known for.
Some of the most popu l ar vari eti es are Val enci as (the j ui ce
orange), Tangel os (tangeri ne-grapefrui t hybri ds), Navel s
(good f or eat i ng) , and Parson Browns (named f or a 1 9th
century pastor who added to hi s i nsuff i ci ent i ncome from
preachi ng by growi ng oranges). Sour oranges, usual l y found
growi ng wi l d, are used i n many Spani sh and Cuban reci pes.
Grapefrui t i s not to be overl ooked, ei ther. Currentl y the
Ci trus Commi ssi on i s test i ng both sugar-sweetened and l ow
cal ori e sweetened j ui ces on the market. Kumquats and cal a
mondi ns are cl ose ci trus rel at i ves, favored for use i n j el l i es
and marmal ade an
d
as ornaments.
Fl ori da grows mangoes whi ch can be used at j ust about
any stage of growt h. Thi s frui t ori gi nated i n anci ent I ndi a
and spread to warm cl i mates al l over t he worl d vi a t rade
routes of the expl orers, reachi ng Fl ori da j ust before the Ci vi l
War. Su rpri si ngl y, t hi s l usci ous frui t i s aki n to poi son i vy,
and i f you' re al l ergi c to i ts ski n , you may want to wear gl oves
whi l e handl i ng i t . Fl avors range from a pi neappl e taste to
peach to mel on. A speci al t reat i s mango i ce cream, whi ch
you can make very si mpl y by bl endi ng one pi nt of di ced ri pe
fru i t wi th one quart of i ce mi l k and freezi ng.
Papayas are mel on- l i ke frui ts that can be used as
vegetabl es when they are st i l l green. Thi s frui t al so has a
wi de range of f l avors and i s often seasoned wi th l i me j u i ce
and honey or sugar. One vari ety i s somet i mes cal l ed
"pawpaw" i n parts of the Cari bbean.
Guavas are among the ol der frui ts nat i ve to the Ameri can
t ropi cs, grown here even before European expl orat i on.
Yel l ow and strawberry guavas are t he mai n types, and t hei r
vari ety of sweet f l avors makes t hem del i ci ous i n j el l i es and
past ri es, or wi th squares of cream cheese.
Key Li mes are Fl ori da' s best known t ropi cal fru i t , famous
for thei r use i n Key Li me pi e. The pul p of t hese l i mes i s
yel l ow, not green . You can tel l i f the Key Li me pi e you are
bei ng served is the real t hi ng by its col or. Enj oy !
281
'GATORS
There' s qui te a mysti que about al l i gators, an unmi stakabl y
Fl ori da symbol . The 1 8th-century botani st Wi l l i am Bartram
wrote that they were so numerous i n some parts of the state
"that it woul d have been easy to have wal ked across on t hei r
heads had the ani mal s been harml ess. "
Of course, t hey' re not harml ess. Those great snappi ng
j aws can make mi ncemeat of a cal f or even a fearsome Dober
man, sendi ng an unsuspect i ng vi ct i m to ani mal heaven i n
seconds. Over the decades, t hi s descendant of di nosaurs has
been val uabl e for i ts hi de and i ts meat. Today the state has
protected the speci es and i s maki ng an effort to manage i ts
l arge, dynami c popul at i on and handl e nui sance compl ai nts.
At any gi ven t i me, there are about 60 "al l i gator control
agents" around t he state. I f there i s a probl em ' gator on you r
property, cal l the Fl ori da Game and Fresh Water Fi sh Com
mi ssi on. When a compl ai nt comes i n , the agency i ssues a
l i cense for a t rapper to capture the speci f i c ' gator, ei ther for
rel ocati on or for di sposal . General l y, t hough, once a
n ui sance, al ways a nui sance, so di sposal i s more common.
The t rapper get s a percentage of sal es f or gi vi ng t he hi de to
the state for auct i on, and he sel l s the meat to authori zed
restaurants.
You can't j ust go out and t rap your own ' gator to make a
meal of the beast. The days of poachi ng are pretty much
gone, and i t i s i l l egal t o t rap one wi thout a l i cense. But a
l ocal fol kl ore has spru ng up t hat the hunter who was once
known as the bi ggest poacher of al l i s now the operator of a
hugel y successf ul ' gator farm on Lake Okeechobee, one of
onl y a handful of such farms i n Fl ori da.
The onl y l egal way you may eat ' gator meat i s cooked, and
onl y restaurants are authori zed t o cook i t . The most com
mon way of servi ng ' gator i s f ri ed ' gator tai l , i n bi te-si zed
pi eces. The cooked meat i s f l avorf ul and whi te, l i ke chi cken,
and somet i mes can be chewy or tough, dependi ng on the
part of t he ' gator that i s used.
Better for you to bi te the ' gator than the other way around !
282
SWAMP CABBAGE
Some peopl e who don't l i ke the t hought of "rough i ng i t "
t hi nk t hey woul dn' t l i ke a di sh wi t h a name l i ke swamp cab
bage . . . unt i l t hey l earn that i t' s j ust t he Cracker name for
hearts of pal m. Speci f i cal l y, i t' s the heart of the sabal (cab
bage) pal m, Fl ori da' s state t ree.
Actual l y, t hi s "tree" i s botani cal l y a "monocot. " That' s
short for monocotyl edon, pl ants whose embryos produce
si ngl e paral l el -vei ned l eaves. Once the bud i s destroyed, the
pl ant di es. Thus, t hi s ki nd of "t ree" i s real l y more l i ke a l i l y
t han a real tree t hat produces not one but two such l eaves
so that it can prol i ferate.
Marj ori e Ki nnan Rawl i ngs had voi ced t he concern of many
back-country fol k when she wrote Cross Creek Cookery, say
i ng " . . . t hi s greatest of Fl ori da vegetabl es i s t he whi te core
of a young pal m tree, and i ts cutt i ng means t he death of the
tree. " Feari ng t hat t he groves mi g ht event ual l y be wi ped out,
she poi nted out a better reason for t he tree' s val ue, as an
anchor to i dent i fy t he l ocat i on of a sportsman' s camp. She
di d acknowl edge, t hough, that bears knew the food val ue of
swamp cabbage. The best trees are t hose t hat are ei ght to 1 0
feet tal l , growi ng not too cl ose t o t he water, she wrote.
Today the sabal pal m i s protected by state l aw. A permi t i s
requi red from t he Fl ori da Department of Agri cul t ure and
Consumer Servi ces for removal and harvest i ng. But whi l e
t he fresh pl ant i s avai l abl e onl y under certai n ci r
cumstances, the canned versi on i n t he gourmet sect i ons of
grocery stores i s readi l y avai l abl e for modern cooks who
prefer conven i ence. And not onl y i s t he pl ant good for food,
but i t s f i ber, used to make brushes and brooms worl dwi de,
i s the onl y nat ural brush fi ber grown and processed i n the
country.
Swamp cabbage mi xes so wel l wi t h other foods t hat you
can even make a mai n cou rse of i t. Actual l y, i t ' s better when
prepared wi t h another f l avori ng, as i t can taste bl and, even
bi tter, when served al one. The Semi nol e I ndi ans add can ned
syrup and sal t, for exampl e. Sal t pork, any cured pork cut
(ham hock, smoked bacon, pork shoul der, and so fort h) and
most wi l d game al l make good seasoni ngs.
Experi ment wi t h the reci pes we've provi ded and some of
your own, and you' l l see how easi l y swamp cabbage can
become part of your everyday menu.
283
CONCH
Key l i me pi e may be the most famous i ndi vi dual d i sh from
the Fl ori da Keys, but "conch is ki ng" as a stapl e. The rose
pi nk spi ral shel l fi sh contai ns a sweet-fl avored, j ui cy meat t hat
l ends i tsel f to a vari ety of reci pes.
The conch i s so much a part of Keys menus that i ts name i s
al so the n i ckname of nati ve resi dents. Hi stori cal l y, a real
conch (say KON K) i s a descendant of one of the ori gi nal
Bahami an renegade fami l i es who came i n search of t urt l es
and wood for bui l di ng. Def i antl y i ndependent, they swore
they' d "eat conch" before they' d pay hi gh Bri ti sh taxes. And
eat conch they di d, l i ked i t , and the name stuck. Conch
cui si ne today i s a curi ous mi xture of cockney, tangy Car i b
bean, Cracker, and Lat i n-Ameri can i nfl uences.
The l argest speci es found i n North Ameri ca, the Fl ori da
conch i s housed i n an attract ive shel l often used for decora
t i on and as a horn. There' s more to removi ng the ani mal i n
si de than j ust breaki ng t he t i p of t he shel l and i nsert i ng a f i ne,
t hi n kn i fe bl ade t o cut the snai l away from the muscl e that
hol ds i t i n pl ace. It takes practi ce, but once you ' re experi
enced, you shou l d be abl e to do i t very qui ckl y.
Other ways of removi ng the meat i n order to preserve the
shel l are to boi l i t or appl y heat to the t i p, or to enti ce the snai l
out by rubbi ng i ts exposed area wi th sal t, grabbi ng and pul l
i ng hard.
The meat i s tough and needs to be mari nated f i rst, beaten
wi t h a mal l et, or cooked at l ength to tenderize i t . Conch i s
good raw, too, i n a sal ad or eaten l i ke oysters, but Key l i me
j ui ce wi l l hel p soften the meat f i rst. Try it the way the nati ves
prepare i t, by maki ng "ol d sour. " Di ssol ve one tabl espoon of
salt i n a pi nt of l i me j ui ce, ferment at room temperature at
l east two weeks, and t hen mari nate the conch. Add a dash of
cayenne pepper if you want an extra hot zi ng.
284
MI NORCAN SPECIALTI ES
Some of Fl ori da's most di sti ncti ve et hni c foods have been
kept al i ve i n St. August i ne' s Mi norcan communi ty. Led by Dr.
Andrew Turnbul l , a group of sett l ers from the Medi terranean
i sl and of Mi norca had come to New Smyrna Beach i n t he
1 700s. But wi t h dwi ndl i ng food suppl i es and the ravages of i l
l ness, the col ony ended i n 1 777, and those who coul d fl ed to
the nort h.
Three si gn i f i cant Mi norcan foods are dat i l peppers (say
DATt l e), pi l au (say PERl o in t he northern part of the state,
PEEl ow everywhere el se in the state), and Fromaj ardi s
pastri es (say FROmaZHARdi s) .
The Mi norcan col oni sts brought dat i l peppers wi t h them
from the Medi terranean as a mai nstay of the cul t ure' s cook
i ng. The smal l , green-orange pl ants appear harml ess but have
been cal l ed "bott l ed hel l " by t he uni ni ti ated who charge i nto
dat i l pepper j el l y and dat i l pepper rel i sh. No Mi norcan stock
bases are compl ete wi thout thi s seasoni ng. "Heavenl y tor
ture, " as it i s also cal l ed, is so necessary to Mi norcan reci pes
and grown by many area cooks i n t hei r own backyards. I t 's i m
possi bl e t o i magi ne any restaurant i n town t hat doesn' t use
thi s seasoni ng i n i ts reci pes.
Pi l au begi ns wi th a seasoned ri ce base. Chi cken or shr i mp
pi l au are among several common vari eti es, but t here have
been ti mes when, if a certai n ki nd of meat was not avai l abl e,
the di sh woul d be prepared wi th speckl ed butter beans i n
stead. Start by maki ng a t hi ck "mul ch" paste by cooki ng
down dat i l peppers, oni ons, tomatoes, green peppers, and
other seasoni ngs i n a cast-i ron pot unt i l the mi xt ure i s dark i n
col or, al most burnt. Then add your choi ce of meat , ri ce and
water. Si mmer. The more "seasoned" the i ron pot i s, t he
better the f l avor. You can "cure" a new ski l l et wi th oi l and
vegetabl e tri mmi ngs by cooki ng unt i l food no l onger sti cks or
turns bl ack.
Fromajardi s past ri es are stuffed wi th cheese and baked for
Easter Eve fest i val cel ebrati ons. I n the 1 770s, young men
woul d go carol i ng from house to house, prai si ng home
owners who served them the cakes and condemni ng t hose
who di dn' t . Today the cakes are consi dered a t radi t i onal
M i norcan breakfast.
The ori gi nal New Smyrna sett l ement may not have sur
vi ved, but thanks to t he spi ri t of sel f-suf f i ci ency among
generat i ons of Mi norcans. thei r customs remai n.
285
WHERE TO GE ANSWERS
ABOU FLORIDA'S PLNT
AND ANIMAL LIFE
What' s okay to eat . . . What i sn' t
A number of the reci pes i n FAMOUS FLORI DA! CRACKER
COOKI N' AND OTHER FAVORI TES cal l for i ngred i ents t hat
are protected by state l aw. That means you may not neces
sari l y be abl e to prepare some of them yoursel f, such as
al l i gator, but you can certai nl y enjoy them i n the restaurants
they' re served i n. You' l l be the wi ser for knowi ng how to fi x
them.
Certai n other nati ve i ngredi ents are avai l abl e to you, but
you wi l l need to be aware of l aws and rest ri cti ons t hat may
appl y regardi ng season dates and al l owabl e quanti ti es. The
fol l owi ng state agenci es wi l l gl adl y answer your quest i ons
and send hel pf ul materi al for your own reference.
Department of Natural Resources
(al so has i nformati on on state parks, recreati on, and
campi ng faci l i t i es)
Crown Bui l di ng, Room 620
202 Bl ount Street
Tal l ahassee, FL 32301
Department of Agricul ture and Consumer Serices
The Capi tol
Game and Fresh Water Fish Commi ssion
Farri s Bryant Bui l di ng
620 S. Meri di en St reet
School of Forest Resources and Conservation
Uni versi ty of Fl ori da
Gai nesvi l l e, FL 3261 1
The University of Mi ami Marine Lab and Sea World i n
Orl ando are two ot her i mportant educat i onal resources for
i nformat i on on al l forms of mari ne l i fe.
286
FLORIDA
FESTIVALS-CRCKER,
PIONEER, FOOD SPECIALnES,
SEFOOD, FAIRS
Thi s i s a sel ected l i st i ng of events that you' l l enj oy for
t hei r focus on Fl ori da regi onal foods and hi stori c tradi ti ons.
For detai l s, contact the Chamber of Commerce i n the named
communi ti es. Be sure to check i f the act i vi ty hasn' t been
reschedul ed to a di fferent month.
January
Col l i er County Fai r, Napl es
South Fl ori da Fai r, West Pal m Beach
Manatee County Fai r, Pal metto
Southwest Fl ori da Fai r, Fort Myers
Si l ver Sai l f i sh Derby of the Palm Beaches, West Pal m Beach
Annual Homestead Rodeo, Homestead
February
Fl ori da State Fai r, Tampa
Hi ghl ands County Fai r, Sebri ng
Fl ori da Ci trus Festi val , Wi nter Haven
South Dade County Fai r, Homestead
Southeastern Youth Fai r, Ocal a
St. Luci e Cou nty Fai r, Fort Pi erce
Pasco County Fai r, Dade Ci ty
Hendry County Fai r, Cl ewi ston
Ki ssi mmee Val l ey Fai r and Li vestock Show, Ki ssi mmee
DeSoto County Fai r, Arcadi a
Central Fl ori da Fai r, Orl ando
Hi l l sborough County Fai r and Strawberry Festi val , Pl ant Ci ty
Evergl ades Ci ty Fi shermen' s Seafood Fest i val
Semi nol e Tri bal Fai r, Hol l ywood
Grant Seafood Festi val , Grant ( Mel bourne)
Heart of Fl ori da Fol k Festi val , Dade Ci ty
Swamp Cabbage Festi val , LaBel l e
Si l ver Spurs Rodeo, Ki ssi mmee
287
March
Ci trus County Fai r, I nverness
Mart i n County Fai r, Stuart
Pi nel l as County Fai r, Largo
Sarasota County Fai r, Sarasota
Lake County Fai r and Fl ower Show, Eusti s
Suwannee Ri ver Fai r and Livestock Show, Suwannee County,
Chi efl and
Dade County Youth Fai r, Mi ami
Pol k County Youth Fai r, Bartow
Baker County Fai r, MacCl enny
Hernando Cou nty Fai r, Brooksvi l l e
Putnam Cou nt y Fai r, Pal atka
Pi oneer Park Days, Zol fo Spri ngs
Orange Bl ossom Fest i val , Davi e
Chal o Ni t ka ( Bass) Festi val and Rodeo, Moore Haven
Seafood Fest i val , Marathon
Wi nter Harvest, Gou l ds
Carnaval Mi ami , Li ttl e Havana, Mi ami
Annual Bon i ta Spri ngs Fest i val (Tomato-Snook Festi val ),
Bon i ta Spr i ngs
Speckl ed Perch Festi val , Okeechobee
Wi th l acoochee Backwater Jamboree, Dunnel l on
Fl agl er Cou nty Cracker Day, Bunnel l
Al l - Fl ori da C
h
ampi onshi p Rodeo, Arcadi a
Apri l
Bradford County Fai r, Starke
St. Johns Ri ver Cat f i sh Fest i val , Crescent Ci ty
Largo Cracker Supper, Largo
Bounty of the Sea Seafood Fest i val , Mi ami
Bl ack Gol d J u bi l ee (Evergl ades harvest), Bel l e Gl ade
State Beef Cook-Off , Napl es
I ndi an Ri ver Fest i val , Ti t usvi l l e
Down Home Days, Deland
Di stri ct Rodeo, Pal atka
I sl and Open Fi shi ng Derby, Sani bel I sl and
May
Boom Town Days, Dunnel l on
Fl ori da Fol k Fest i val , Whi te Spr i ngs
288
Zel l wood Sweet Corn Fest i val , Zel l wood
Ann ual Fi shi ng Tournament, St. August i ne
Summer Fi shi ng Contest, West Pal m Beach
Summer Fi shi ng Tournament, Pompano Beach
Rodeo Week, Jasper
Pompano Beach Fi shi ng Rodeo, Pompano Beach
Marathon Dol phi n Scrambl e, Marat hon
Greater Daytona Beach Area Stri ki ng Fi sh Tournament ,
Daytona Beach
June
Sea Turt l e Wat ch, Jensen Beach
Cross and Sword (state pl ay), St. August i ne
Panhandl e Watermel on Fest i val , Chi pl ey
Jefferson Cou nty Watermel on Fest i val , Mont i cel l o
Chi ef l and Watermel on Fest i val , Chi ef l and
Charl otte Harbor Fi shi ng Tournament, Port Charl otte
I nternat i onal Bonefi sh Tou rnament, Marat hon
Pensacol a Shark Rodeo, Pensacol a
July
Evergl ades Outdoor Musi c Fest i val , Mi ami
Al l -Fl ori da Champi onshi p Rodeo, Arcadi a
Si l ver Spurs Rodeo, Ki ssi mmee
Dest i n Shark Tournament, Dest i n
Marathon Jaycees Shark Tournament, Marat hon
Greater Jacksonvi l l e Ki ng Mackerel Tournament ,
Jacksonvi l l e
August
Wausau Fun Day and Possum Fest i val , Wausau
Fort Wal ton BeachlDest i n Open Bi l l f i sh Tournament ,
Fort Wal ton Beach
Pensacol a Ladi es' Bi l l f i sh Tournament, Pensacol a
Captai n ' s Bi l l f i shi ng Tournament, Panama Ci ty Beach
Gul f Coast Masters I nvi tat i onal Bi l l f i sh Tou rnament ,
Pensacol a
Annual Fi shat hon, St . Petersburg
289
September
I nternat i onal Worm Fi ddl i ng Contest , Carywi l l e
Panacea Bl ue Crab Fest i val , Panacea
Pi oneer Days, Engl ewood
Pi oneer Fl ori da Fest i val , Dade Ci ty
Seafood Festi val , Pensacol a
Creek I ndi an Pow-Wow, Pensacol a
Bel l vi ew J unct i on Western Round- Up, Pensacol a
Offshore Sportfi sh i ng Tournament, Sebasti an I n l et
Catt l emen' s Labor Day Rodeo, Okeechobee
Open Spearf i shi ng Tournament, Panama Ci t y
Marl borough Bi l l f i shi ng Tournament, Dest i n
Mi racl e St ri p Ki ng Mackerel Tournament, Panama Ci ty
October
Northeast Fl ori da Fai r, Cal l ahan
Pensacol a I nterstate Fai r, Pensacol a
Greater Jacksonvi l l e Fai r, Jacksonvi l l e
Suwannee Cou nty Fai r, Li ve Oak
Jackson County Fai r, Mari ann a
Greater Hol mes County Fai r, Boni fay
Bay County Fai r, Panama Ci ty
Okal oosa County Fai r, Fort Wal ton Beach
Nort h Fl ori da Fai r, Tal l ahassee
Cou ntry Jubi l ee, Largo
Worl d' s Chi cken Pl ucki n ' Champi onshi p, Spri ng Hi l l
Dest i n Seafood Fest i val , Dest i n
Oak Hi l l Seafood Festi val , Oak Hi l l
Cracker Day, St. August i ne
Fl ori da Forest Festi val , Perry
Ratt l esnake Festi val /I nternat i onal Gopher Race,
San Antoni o
Seafood Fest i val , Cedar Key
Boggy Bayou Mu l l et Fest i val , Ni cevi l l e
Bri ghton Fi el d Days, Bri ghton Semi nol e Reservat i on
Pi oneer Days Fol k Festi val , Orl ando
Czechosl ovaki an I ndependence Day, Masaryktown
Hi spani c Heri tage Festi val , Dade County, Mi ami
Jeani e Audi t i ons and Bal l , Whi te Spri ngs
Dest i n October Fi shi ng Rodeo, Dest i n
Swamp Buggy Races, Napl es
Seafood Fest i val , Panama Ci t y Beach
290
November
Col umbi a County Fai r, lake Ci ty
Al achua County Fai r, Gai nesvi l l e
Vol usi a County Fai r and Youth Show, Deland
Broward County Fai r, Hol l ywood
Fl ori da Seafood Fest i val , Apal achi col a
Seafood Fest i val , Madei ra Beach
The Harvest, Mi ami
Wi nter Fi shi ng Contest, West Pal m Beach
Wi nter Fi sh i ng Tournament, Pompano Beach
Champi onshi p Rodeo, Davi e
December
December on the Farm, Tal l ahassee
Mi ccosukee Tri be' s Annual I ndi an Art Fest i val , Mi ami
Stuart Sai l f i sh Cl ub Li ght Tackl e Tournament, Stuart
Fi shi ng Bowl , West Pal m Beach
NOTES
29 1
REFERENCES
If you'd l i ke to del ve deeper i nto Fl ori da' s t radi ti onal foodways, hi story, and
places where you can fi nd these di shes, the fol l owi ng l i st of books and
pamphl ets wi l l be hel pful . Some of the ti tl es may be out of pri nt, but your
l ocal publ i c l i brary or university l i brary may have them or may be abl e to ar
range an i nter- l i brary loan. Many are sti l l avai l abl e at bookstores and gi ft
shops. We've l i sted them al phabeti cal l y by ti tl e, for your conveni ence, wi th
avai l abl e i nformati on about the publ i sher. Ti tl es shown i n BOLDFACE
CAPITAL LETTERS are the ones we feel are of greatest i nterest.
American Cooking: Southern Style ( 1968), by Eugene Wal ter. Time-Life Books,
New York. Florida's speci al t i es in t hi s vol ume i ncl ude hearts of palm, frui ts
and shel l fi sh. 208 pp. , hardcover.
Apalachicola Seafood Recipes, by Mr. Sherl ock. Pri nted by Val l ey Li tho, Ol d
Town, FL. 55 pp. , paper.
Aunt Nancy's Suwannee Country Cooking (1971) , by Nancy Morgan. Whi te
Spri ngs, FL. 32 pp. , paper.
Bay Leaves (1975), by the Juni or Servi ce League of Panama City I nc. , Panama
City, FL. Notes on early days, tradi ti onal and contemporary recipes. 352 pp. ,
spi ral .
The Beach Cookbook (1976), by Jane Hodges Hamm. Strode Publ i shers I nc. ,
Huntsvi l l e, AL. Reci pes from the Gul f of Mexi co, Atl anti c and Paci fi c coasts,
all i n one col l ecti on . 236 pp. , paper.
Citrus Cooking (1972), by Beatrice Vaughan. Stephen Greene Press, Brattle
boro, VT. This Harvest Home cookbook i s by a wi nter resi dent of Mt. Dora, FL.
32 pp. , paper.
CLARITA'S COCINA ( 1970), by Clarita Garcia. Doubl eday, New York. "Great
tradi ti onal recipes from a Spani sh ki tchen. " 384 pp. , hardcover.
Conch Cooking. Fl ori da Keys Pri nti ng and Publ i shi ng, Key West. Engl i sh and
Cuban methods of preparing foods, with i nformative notes about each di sh.
93 pp. , paper.
Cross Creek (ori gi nal copyri ght 1942; sti l l i n pri nt), by Marjorie Ki nnan Rawl
i ngs. Mocki ngbi rd Books I nc. , St. Si mons I sl and, GA. The Pul i tzer-Prize
wi nni ng author's narrative of l i fe in thi s ti ny, backwoods town. The chapter
"Our dai l y bread" vi vi dl y descri bes thei r food ways. 279 pp., paper.
CROSS CREEK COOKERY (1942), by Marjorie Ki nnan Rawl i ngs. Charl es
Scribner's Sons, New York. I l l ustrated by Robert Camp, Jr. Wri tten i n t he
author's i ni mi tabl e conversational narrative, j ust as if she were tel l i ng you i n
person how each di sh i s prepared. Menus, too. 230 pp. , paper.
CROSS CREEK KITCHENS, by Sal l y Morri sson. Triad Publ i shi ng Company,
Gai nesvi l l e, FL. The author i s curator at the Marjorie Ki nnan Rawl i ngs State
Hi storic Si te. Reci pes and narrative.
Cypress Gardens Cookbook (1970), by the St. Agnes Wel fare Gui l d, St. Paul ' s
Epi scopal Church. Wi nter Haven, FL. Starts out, even before the ti tl e page,
with the Florida Citrus Commi ssi on' s Waverly grapefrui t di et. Many l ocal food
recipes. 330 pp., paper.
Dock to DishIhat To Do with a Fish: Florida Seafood Secrets (1981 ), by Eat
More Fish I nc. Di stri buted by F & F Sal es, Mi ami , FL. Hi nts on keepi ng and
dressi ng fi sh, preparati on, and recipes, presented si mpl y and l i ghtheartedl y. 34
pp., paper.
292
EATI NG IN AMERI CA: A HISTORY (1 976), by Waverley Root and Ri chard de
Rochemont. Wi l l iam Morrow and Company I nc. , New York. Praised and
panned by the critics, thi s is one of the most comprehensive narratives about
food, both si mpl e and gourmet, eaten in the Uni ted States. I ncl udes a parti al l y
annotated bi bl i ography. 512 pp. , hardcover.
Eat Well in Key West (1 982), by Dan McDonal d. De Gusti bus Gui des of Fl orida
I nc. , Key West, Fl. I ndependent restaurant reviews by a former New York Ci ty
restaurant manager and travel escort for American Express. 36 pp. , paper.
1 890 Festival Cookbook (1 975), edited by Sadie Coram Al ston. Friends of
Mci ntosh I nc. , Mci ntosh, Fl. Country recipes from the Mci ntosh area (Marion
County). 1 34 pp. , paper.
FLORIDA RECI PES: 300 YEARS OF GOOD EATI NG (1 972), by lowis Carlton.
Each chapter of regional recipes i s preceded by an i nformative narrative of
the hi story of that part of the state and its favorite foods. 80 pp., paper.
FAMOUS FLORI DA!
TM
RESTAURANTS & RECI PES ( 1 981) , by Sandi Brown
and Joyce laFray-Young. Special ty di shes of 50 of Florida's top restaurants,
with restaurant reviews, reci pes, and suggestions for day trips. 320 pp. , paper.
FAMOUS FLORI DA!
TM
UNDERGROUND GOURMET ( 1 981 ), by Barbie
Bal dwi n. Gourmet and down-home reci pes from off-the-beaten-path restau
rants. 320 pp. , paper.
FAMOUS FLORI DA! THE UNDERWATER GOURMET (1 983), by Joyce La Fray
Young, Susan Shepard and Laura De Salvo. Reci pes from 90 of Fl orida's best
seafood restaurants, wi th ti ps on preparation and buyi ng fresh seafood. 320
pp. , paper.
THE FLORI DA BI CENTENNI AL TRAIL: A HERI TAGE REVISITED (1 976), by
the Bi centennial Commi ssi on of Fl ori da in cooperation with the Fl orida
Department of Commerce. Hi storical sketches of both famous and lesser
known landmarks, state museums and hi storic towns, wi th a pUl l -out map
locating each site al ong the trai l . 1 34 pp. , paper.
FLORI DA COWMAN: A HISTORY OF FLORI DA CATTLE RAISI NG (1 976), by
Joe A. Akerman, Jr. Fl orida Cattl eman' s Association, Ki ssi mmee, FL. Lots of
sol id hi story, i nterviews with ol d-ti mers, and anecdotes. I l l ustrated. Extensive
bi bl i ography. 286 pp. , hardcover.
FLORI DA FOLK FESTIVAL SOUVENI R PROGRAMS (1 980-1 983). Fl orida Folk
Li fe Program, Whi te Springs, Fl. In addition to the performance schedul e,
i ncl udes i nteresti ng and i nformative notes by professi onal fol kl ori sts on
food ways from selected regi ons featured each year. Paper.
THE FLORI DA HERI TAGE COOKBOOK/BI CENTENNIAL EDI TI ON (1 976), by
Mari na Pol vay and Mari l yn Fel l man. Fl orida Consul tation and Management
I nc. , Mi ami , Fl. Presents the state's "ri ch and fasci nat i ng food heri tage" with
readabl e hi storical narrative at the begi nni ng of each chapter. Gl ossary of
fi sh, frui t and vegetables, wi th several col or photos. 1 60 pp. , paper.
Florida Keys Cooking (1 980), by Patricia Artman. Key West , Fl. Reci pes. 24
pp., paper.
Florida Seafood: Basics and Beyond, by the Di vi si on of Mari ne Resources,
Department of Natural Resources, Harmon Shi el ds, Executive Director. How
to cl ean fi sh, di fferent cooki ng methods, notes, and reci pes for selected
Florida species. 32 pp. , paper.
Florida's Favorite Seafoods (1 960), by the Fl orida Board of Conservati on, Ran
dol ph Hodges, Di rector. Peninsular Publ ishi ng Company, Tal l ahassee, Fl. 63
pp. , paper.
Florida's Good Eati ng: Typical Cooking with a Touch of Hi story ( 1 978), by
Bl anche Mercer Feari ngton. Deland, Fl. I l l ustrati ons of hi storic sites by
Evie Sal ter. Some recipes have hi stori c i ntroducti ons. 252 pp. , paper.
293
FLORI DA'S VANI SHI NG WI LDLI FE (1 982), by Laurel Comel l a Hendry,
Thomas M. Goodwi n , and Ronal d F. Labi sky. Fl ori da Cooperative Extensi on
Service i n cooperat i on wi th other agenci es, Uni versi ty of Fl ori da,
Gai nesvi l l e, FL. Summari es of the protected status of 29 speci es of wi l dl i fe
as of 1 982; thei r l i fe hi story, habi tat and di stri buti on, reasons for decl i ne,
and protecti ve measures. 69 pp. , paper.
Food Favorites of St. Augustine (1 973), by Joan Adams Wi ckham. C. F. Hambl en
I nc. , St. Augusti ne, FL. Spani sh, Mi norcan, Engl i sh, and American recipes,
presented i n a format based on Jean Gordon's 1 958 Rose Recipes: Customs,
Facts and Fanci es. Chronol ogy of dates and some of the most readable
hi storical notes precede recipes. 1 88 pp. , hardcover.
THE GASPARI LLA COOKBOOK ( 1961 ), by t he Juni or League of Tampa.
Tampa, FL. I l l ustrat i ons by Lamar Sparkman. 326 pp. , hardcover.
GOODFOOD: THE ADVENTUROUS EATER'S GUI DE TO RESTAURANTS
SERVI NG AMERI CA'S BEST REGI ONAL SPECIALTI ES (1 983), by Jane and
Mi chael Stern. Al f red A. Knopf I nc. , New York. Wri tten by the authors of
Roadfood, a "survi val gui de for hi ghway travel ers. " The Sterns have been
populari zi ng thei r d i scoveri es on Nati onal Publ i c Radi o's program, "Al l
Th i ngs Consi dered. " The character of regi onal cooki ng, as found in the na
t i on' s restaurants, i s presented by regi on, with maps, organ ized i nt o
categories by type of restaurant and type of speci al ty, starri ng t he authors'
top pi cks. 460 pp., paper.
How to Smoke Seafood, Florida Cracker Style (1 971), by Ted Dahl en. Types
of smokers, prepar i ng f i sh, types of wood, how much heat, fl avori ng/
seasoni ng/smoki ng, reci pes.
JANE NI CKERSON'S FLORI DA COOKBOOK (1 973), by Jane Ni ckerson.
Uni versi ty of Fl ori da Press, Gai nesvi l l e, FL. As t he i nt roducti on states,
" Fl ori da i s a good cook' s dream come true, where anyone fasci nated wi t h
the ki tchen art can fi nd an abundance of i ngredi ents wi thout goi ng t o
market." I ncl udes a l i st of l esser known Fl ori da frui ts and vegetabl es. 204
pp. , hardcover.
Louise Lamme's Florida Cook Book (1 968), by Loui se Lamme. Star Press,
Boynton Beach, FL. Both "Ol d Timey" and modern Fl ori da di shes, i ncl udi ng
Semi nol e I ndi an reci pes and fresh ratt lesnake recipes. Narrative descri bes
reci pes and hi story. 68 pp. , paper.
Louise Lamme's Florida Seafood Cook Book (1973), by Loui se Lamme. Star
Publ i shi ng Company, Boynton Beach, FL. How to prepare seafood recipes
and appropriate side di shes such as hushpuppi es and gri ts. 48 pp., paper.
Old Customs of Pensacola and Favorite Recipes of the Times (1 974). Hi stori c
Pensacola Preservat i on Soci ety, Pensacola, FL. An outl i ne of the ci ty' s best
loved fol kl ore. Paper.
Oranges (1 967), by John McPhee. Farrar, Straus & Gi roux, New York. Art i cl es
that ori gi nal l y appeared i n The New Yorker magazine. 1 49 pp. , hardcover.
PALM BEACH ENTERTAINS (1 976), by the Juni or League of the Pal m
Beaches I nc. Coward, McCann & Geoghegan I nc. Part I i s a 68-page hi story of
Pal m Beach, as entertai ni ng as the recipes that fol l ow. 241 pp., hardcover.
THE PI ONEER COOK IN SOUTHEAST FLORI DA (1 975), by Donal d Wal ter
Curl . Boca Raton Hi storical Society, Boca Raton, FL. With archive-style pen
and i nk etchi ngs. Thi s i s a must-read soci al hi story, wi th hi stori c reci pes,
descri pti ons of frui ts found i n southeast Fl ori da yards today, and contem
porary reci pes. 70 pp. , paper.
294
St. Augustine Cookery (1 965), by the Fl agl er Hospi tal Auxi l iary. Fl agl er
Hospi tal , St. Augusti ne, FL. Reci pes handed down by Spani sh, French,
Engl i sh and American settlers. 20 pp., paper.
Seafood Adventures from the Gulf and South Atlantic, by the Gul f and South
Atl antic Fisheri es Development Foundation Inc., Tampa, FL. Nut ri ti onal
features, purchasi ng, cleani ng and dressi ng, basic and special cooki ng
methods, storage of seafood. Short descri pti on of sel ected fish, wi th recipes.
72 pp., paper.
South Florida Cookery: Unique Recipes from the Tropics and Elsewhere
(1 964), by Alex D. Hawkes. Wake Brooks House, Coral Gabl es, FL. 224 pp. ,
handmade hardcover.
Spanish and Minorcan Recipes from Historic Old bI. Augustine (1 940s), by
Mary Lee Cannon. I ncl udes thumbnai l history of North Aviles Street by K.S.
Lawson, and story of the Mi norcans, by E.W. Lawson.
THE TRAVELS OF WILLIAM BARTRAM (origi nal l y publ i shed i n 1 791 ; 1 980
reprint), by Wi l l i am Bartram. Latest pri nti ng avai l abl e from Peregri ne Smi th,
Layton, UT. One of the earliest starti ng poi nts for Flori da's recorded history i n
the Engl i sh l anguage. Written by a botanist i n an el oquent styl e that has
almost di sappeared today. The portrait of l i fe and cui si ne in those ti mes
would be i ncomparable were i t not for the i mages that Samuel Coleridge
Tayl or drew from for several of his epi c poems. 332 pages, paper.
-NOTES-
295
I NDE
Al l i gator
Gator Burger (Gator Gri l l ) - - - = - 261
Appet izers
Cl am-Stuffed Mushrooms (The Crab Trap) - - - + + = - - - 275
Smoked Fi sh Dip (Hal f Shel l Raw Bar) - - - + - a - - 239
Smoked Fi sh Spread (Ted Peters Famous
Smoked Fi sh) = - - - - - - + - 1 64
Smoked Mu l l et Spread (Buttonwood Bar B-O) - = - 269
Swamp Cabbage Ambrosi a (Carl Al l en' s
Hi st orical Cafe) - - - - - - - 1 07
Beef
Ameri can Sauerbraten (The Chattaway) - = = - - - - = 1 49
Beef Pi nwheel s (Suncrest Restaurant) a - - = - - - 1 92
Bistec Empanizado Mi/anesa (La Teresi ta) t a t t a 1 31
Care Asada Mechada/Pot Roast ( Malaga) = - 208
Country Fried Steak (Buddy Freddys) - - = = a = = - 93
Enchi l adas (Acapul co Cafe) = - - - - = - = a 1 1 4
Pa/omilla Steak (La Teresi ta) = - + - - - - - - 1 30
Picadilfo/Lati n Sl oppy Joes (Malaga) - - - - - 207
Pot Roast (Mal aga) - - - - - - - - = - - - = 208
Steak a la David (Latam) - - - - - - = 1 22
Stuffed Cabbage (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) - = = - 88
Tenderl oi n Ti ps Sa/teados (Latam) - = = = = - = 1 21
Beverage
Sangria (Mal aga) - - + - a - - - - - 21 2
Breads
Crackl i n' Corn Bread (Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) = - - 1 02
Hushpuppi es (The Catfi sh Pl ace) = - + + = - = = 1 88
I ndi an Fried Pumpki n Bread (Mi ccosukee
Restaurant) - = - + - = = = - - - = 224
I ndi an Fry Bread (Mi ccosukee Restaurant) - - - - - - 223
Soy Gri ts for Bal anced Protei n Bread (The Ol d
Spani sh Sugar Mi l l ) - - + = - = = - - 1 76
Catfi sh
Catfish (The Cat f i sh Pl ace) - - = - = - - - - 1 87
Cross Creek Speci al/Catfi sh, Frog Legs, Cooter
(The Yearl i ng) - - - - - - = - - - - - a - 75
Cereal
Granol a Cereal (The Old Spani sh Sugar Mi l l ) - 1 75
296
Chi cken
Baked Chi cken (La Esqui na de Tejas) - - 201
Chi cken and Yel l ow Ri ce (Mama Lo's) 3
Chi cken Li vers ( Hampton' s) - 1 d
Chi cken or Pork in Mol e Sauce (Acapu l co Cafe) 1 1
Chi cken Papri kash (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) d
Fried Chi cken (Mal aga) o 20U
Homemade Chi cken and Dumpl i ngs ( Buddy Freddys) U4
Mama' s Fancy Ri ce and Chi cken ( Hopki ns
Boardi ng House) 1 7
Mo/e de Gallina a Puerco/Chi cken o r Pork
i n Mol e Sauce (Acapul co Cafe) 1 1
Mom' s Chi cken and Dumpl i ngs (Robert' s Dock) - - - bd
Pallo Asado/Baked Chi cken (La Esqui na de Tejas) - 201
Pallo Frito/Fri ed Chi cken (Mal aga) - 20U
Southern Fried Chi cken (Doe-AI Country Cooki n' ) - - 1 1
Chi l i
Meatl ess Chi l i (The Spi ral ) 21 b
Conch
Conch Sal ad (Pau l ' s) - + - o - o - 1 4b
Conch Fri tters ( Hal f Shel l Raw Bar) - 23d
Conch Fri tters ( Mangrove Mama's) o 230
Conch Steak ( Mangrove Mama' s) - + 22U
Cooter (Soft-Shel l ed Turtl e)
(The Year l i ng) 7b
Crepes
Broccol i Crepes (Vi l ano Seafood Shack) - b3
Cuban, Spani sh and Mexi can
Bistec Empanizado Mi/anesa (La Teresita) - - 1 31
Carne Asada Mechada/Pot Roast (Mal aga) o 20d
Cuban Sandwi ch (Si l ver Ri ng Cafe) - 1 3d
Enchi l adas (Acapul co Cafe) -
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 4
Fl an (La Esqui na de Tejas) - 204
Garbanzo Bean Soup (Latam) - - - 1 20
Guacamol e Salad (Acapu l co Cafe) - 1 1 3
Mojo Criollo/Creol e Sauce (Mal aga) - - 21 1
Mojo de Ajo/Garl i c Sauce (Latam) o 1 2
Mo/e de Gallina a Puerco/Chi cken or Pork i n
Mol e Sauce (Acapu l co Cafe) - - 1 1
Moros/Mi xed Bl ack Beans (La Esqui na d e Tejas) - 202
Pa/omilla Steak (La Teresita) - 1 30
Picadillo/Lat i n Sl oppy Joes (Mal aga) - - o 207
P/atanos Maduros/Sweet Bananas (La Esqui na
de Tejas) - - + 203
Pallo Asado/Baked Chi cken (La Esqui na de Tejas) - 201
Pallo Frilo/Fri ed Chi cken (Mal aga) - o 20U
Qui ck Garbanzo Bean Soup (La Teresi ta) o o - T 2U
Refri ed Beans (Acapu I co Cafe) - - - 1 1 7
Sangria (Mal aga) - - - 21 2
Yuca can Mojo de Ajo/Yuca wi th Garl i c Sauce
(Latam) - - 1 2
297
Desserts
Appl esauce (Ovi edo I nn) - - - - = - 1 82
Bread Puddi ng wi t h Lemon Sauce (Ovi edo I nn) + + = 1 83
Buttonwood Carrot Cake (Buttonwood Bar B-O) - + - + = + 270
Fl an (La Esqui na de Tejas) - - - + . + . + + 204
Mi chael ' s Bananas (Mangrove Mama's) + . + . - 233
Pies
Banana Cream Pi e (Ye Tower Lunch) - . + . - + + 1 97
Butterscotch Cream Pi e (Ye Tower Lunch) + 1 97
Chocol ate Pi e (Jul i a Mae' s Town- I nn) - - . - - - + - + - . . - 28
Chocolate Cream Pie (Ye Tower Lunch) . - - . . - 1 97
Coconut Pi e (Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant) . + - + 256
Coconut Cream Pie (Ye Tower Lunch) - + - + + + . 1 97
Cowboy's Pi neappl e Pi e (S.w. Cowboy's) - + - - - . + 45
El l a' s Pecan Pi e (Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258
Fl ori da Orange Pie (Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) o . + . 108
Key Li me Pi e (Hal f Shel l Raw Bar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Lemon Chi ffon Pi e ( Hopki ns Boardi ng House) = . . - . 1 9
Lemon Meri ngue Pi e ( Fl ora and El l a's) + - - . - = - + 255
Lucy' s Banana Pi e (Hampton' s) . + + = + . 1 71
Mango-Banana Pi e (The Spi ral) - . - + + + . = - + 21 9
Meri ngue for Coconut and Lemon Pi es
(Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
Peanut Butter Pi e (Suncrest Restaurant) - + o + + + + 1 94
Sweet Potato Pi e (Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) + . . + + - + + - + 1 06
Sour Cream Cake (Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant) . + + - + + . . + 254
Spi ced Apples (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) - . = - + + . . . 90
Strawberry Shortcake (Buddy Freddys) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Dressi ngs/Stuff i ngs
Cornbread Dressi ng (The Pri mrose I nn) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Crab Meat Dressi ng (Dai nty Del ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2
Eggs and Omel ets
Avocado-Bacon-Swi ss Cheese Omelet
(Pepe' s Cafe) - - . - - - . - + . - + & + + . + + 244
Spani sh Omel et (Coffee Cup) - - . = - . . - - o = - . . - - . - 3
Frog Legs
(The Yearl i ng) + - - - + - + - + = + - + + + + 75
Gri l l ed Frog Legs (Waku l l a Spri ngs Lodge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Frui ts and Vegetables
Appl esauce (Ovi edo I nn) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 82
Baked Beans ( Hampton' s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 69
Baked Beans for Ol d Navy Breakfast
(Jack' s Skyway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 53
Bev's Cabbage (The Spi ral ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 8
Broccol i Crepes (Vi l ano Seafood Shack) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Cole Sl aw (The Catfi sh Pl ace) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 89
Fresh Col lard Greens (State Farmers
Market Restau rant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Fresh Zucchi ni and Tomatoes (Buddy Freddys) - + . - + + 95
Fried Ci trons (Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 05
Fried Summer Squash Casserol e (DoeAI
Count ry Cooki n' ) - . . . - = . . - - + + . - 1 60
298
Hoppi ngj ohn (Mama Lo's) o o o o o o o o o o . o o o o o o r o o o o o o o o o 66
Moros/Mi xed Bl ack Beans (La Esqui na de Tejas) o o o o o o o o o o o + o o o 202
Moussaka (The Spi ral) o o o o + + + o o o + . o o = o o o o o o o o o o 21 6
Okra and Tomatoes (State Farmers
Market Restaurant) o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o r o o o o o o o o o o o o o 264
Oni on Ri ngs wi th Sesame Seeds
(Mangrove Mama's) o o o o . o o o o o o + + o o o o o + o o o o . o o o o o o o 232
Pi ckled Beets (Hampton' s) o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 1 70
Platanos Maduros/Sweet Bananas
(La Esqui na de Tejas) o + o . o o + o o o o o o o o o o r + o o o o o o o o o o o + o 203
Refri ed Beans (Acapul co Cafe) o o o o . . o o o o o o o o o o o o . o o . o . 1 1 7
Ri ceBroccol i -Cheese Casserole
(Suncrest Restaurant) o o o o o o o o + o o o o o o o o + o o o o o o . o o o o o o o o 1 93
Rutabaga Chunks (Coffee Cup) o o o o o , " . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Sauerkraut (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) o o o o o o o o . . o o o o o 85
Scal l oped Eggpl ant (Buddy Freddys) o o . o o . o = o o o o o o o + o o o o o o o o o 96
Scal l oped Eggpl ant (The Pri mrose I nn) o o . o o o o o o o o o = o o o o + o o o o 71
Spi ced Appl es (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) o o o o o o o o o . o o o o o o 90
Stri ng Beans (Mama Lo's) o o + o o o o o o o o o o o o o o . o o . o + o o o . o o o . o 64
Stuffed Cabbage (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) o o o o o o o o o o . o o o = 88
Swamp Cabbage (Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) o o o o o + o o o o o o o o = o o o o 1 04
Swamp Cabbage (Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant) o o + o o o o . o o o o o o o o . o 251
Swamp Cabbage Ambrosia ( Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) o o o o o o o o o o o o o 1 07
Swamp Cabbage Salad (Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant) o o o o o o + o o o o o o = 252
Swamp Cabbage wi th Potatoes (Flora and El l a' s
Restaurant) + o + o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o r o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 253
Whol e Broi l ed Tomatoes (Wakul l a Spri ngs Lodge) o o o o o o . o o o o 32
Yuca con Mojo de Ajo/Yuca wi th Garl i c Sauce
(Latam) o o o + + o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 1 26
Hearts of Pal m
See Swamp Cabbage
Hushpuppi es
Hushpuppi es (The Catfi sh Place) o o o . o o o o o o o o o
-
. . . . . . . . . 1 88
Key Li me
Key Li me Pi e (Hal f Shel l Raw Bar) o o . o o o o o + o . o o r o o o o o o o o o o o 240
Moussaka (The Spi ral ) o + o o + o o . o o o o o o o o o o r o o - o o o o o o o o o + + 21 6
Pork
Baked Ham and Frui t Sauce (Oviedo I nn) o o o o o o o o o o = o o o . + o . o + 1 81
Mole de Gallina L Puerco/Chi cken or Pork
in Mol e Sauce (Acapul co Cafe) o o o o o . o o o o o o o o o o . o o o o o o 1 1 6
Smothered Pork Chops (Mama Col e' s) o o . o o o . o o o o o o o o . o o o o o 23
Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes
Caraway Baked Potato (The Old Spani sh Sugar Mi l l) o o o o o o o o o o o o o o o 1 77
Di xi e Fries ( Mangrove Mama' s) o o o + o . o o o o o o o o o o + o 231
Mel ' s French Fries ( Mel ' s Hot Dogs) - = o o o o = o . o 1 35
Ol d-Fashi oned Sweet Potatoes (Mama Lo's) . . o o o o o o o o o o o o r o o + o 65
Ri ce
Caj un Ri ce (Doe-AI Country Cooki n' ) o o o o o o o o o = r o o o o o o o o r o . o o 1 58
Salads
Cole Slaw (The Catfi sh Pl ace) o o o + o o o o o o o o o o . o o o + 1 89
Conch Salad (Pau l ' s) o + + + o + o o o o o o o o . . + o o o + 145
Garden Salad ( Mama Lo's) + o . + + o = o = o o o o o o o + o o . o o o o o o 67
Guacamol e Salad (Acapul co Cafe) o o + o o o o = o o o o o . o o r . o 1 1 3
299
Hearts of Pal m Salad (Johnson's) - - - - - - + + - + + 80
Horati ki Salata (Paul ' s) - + - - = - - - 1 42
Swamp Cabbage Salad ( Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant) - - - 252
Very Good Frui t Salad (Hopki ns Boardi ng House) = - - - - - 1 8
Salad Dressi ngs
Homemade Dressi ng (Mama Lo's) + - - - = = - - - - 67
Honey French Dressi ng (Robert' s Dock) - + 60
House Dressi ng (Pepe' s Cafe) - - - = - - - - - - + 245
Sandwi ches
Cuban Sandwi ch (Si lver Ri ng Cafe) - - - - = - - - 1 38
Gator Burger (Gator Gri l l ) - - - - - - - - = + = 261
Ori gi nal I ndi an Burger ( Mi ccosukee Restaurant) = - + - - 225
Real ChicagoStyl e Hot Dog ( Mel ' s Dogs) - = - - - 1 34
Sauces
Barbecue Sauce (The Chattaway) - - - - = + - - - 1 48
Spani sh Sauce for Amberjack (Coffee Cup) - = + - - - 4
Frui t Sauce for Baked Ham (Oviedo I nn) - - + - + = = - - + - - 1 81
Huevos Rancheros Sauce (Pepe' s Cafe) - - - + = - + 246
Lemon Sauce for Bread Puddi ng (Oviedo I nn) + = - - - - - 1 84
Mojo Criol/o/Creole Sauce (Mal aga) - = - + - - - - 21 1
Mojo de Ajo/Garl i c Sauce for Yuca (Latam) - = + + - 1 26
Mol e Sauce for Chi cken or Pork (Acapul co Cafe) - = - 1 1 6
Shri mp Sauce (O' Steen' s) - - - - = - + - 49
Seafood
Amberjack wi t h Spani sh Sauce (Coffee Cup) - - = + + - - 4
Broi l ed Octopus (Paul ' s) - - - + - - + - - = + 1 44
Broi l ed Snapper or Mackerel (Dai nty Del ) - - + = - - - + - 1 3
Catfi sh (The Catfi sh Pl ace) - - - + - - - - - 1 87
Charcoal Broi l ed Scamp (Dai nty Del ) - - - + - - = + - - - + - - 1 1
Cl amStuffed Mushrooms (The Crab Trap) - - - + + - - - - 275
Conch Steak ( Mangrove Mama' s) - - - - - - - 229
Cowboy's Broi l ed Snapper (S.W. Cowboy's) - - - + + - - - 44
Crabfi ngers (Johnson' s) - + + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 79
Crab I mperi al (The Crab Trap) - - - - - - + - - - + 276
Cross Creek Speci al (Catfi sh, Frog Legs, Cooter)
(The Yearl i ng) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - + - 75
Devi l ed Crabs (O'Steen's) + + - - - - = + - - 48
Dream Boat/Seafood Casserol e (Parson' s) - - - - - - 37
Gri l l ed Frog Legs (Wakul l a Spri ngs Lodge) - - - - + - + - - 31
Oyster Stew (J ul i a Mae' s Town l nn) - + - - - + - - - - - 27
Pi ckl ed Octopus (Paul ' s) - - - = - - - - + - - - - - - 1 43
Robert' s Seafood Casserol e (Robert' s Dock) - - - - - - 56
Seafood a la Vasca (Latam) - - + - - = - - - - - - - - 1 24
Seafood au Grati n (Parson' s) + - - = - - - - + - - - - - 38
Seafood Sti r Fry (Pepe's Cafe) + - - = - - - - - 247
Sea Trout or Grouper in Beer Batter
(Buttonwood Bar BQ) + = - - - - = + - - - - 272
Shrimp
Charcoal Broi l ed Shri mp (Dai nty Del) = - - = - - 1 0
Cowboy's Speci al Shri mp (S.w. Cowboy's) - - 43
The Shack's Shri mp and Scal l op Saute
(Vi l ano Seafood Shack) - + - - - - - = - - 52
300
Shri mp Fl ori di an (Wakul l a Spri ngs Lodge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Shri mp in Garl i c Sauce, Mal aga-Style (Mal aga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210
Smoked Mul l et ( Buttonwood Bar B-Q) . . . . + . . . . . . . + . + . + o . . . . . . + . . 268
Speci al Snapper (Dai nty Del) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 4
Squi d Ri ngs ( Hal f Shel l Raw Bar) . . . . . . . . . . . + . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237
Side Di shes
Appl esauce (Ovi edo I nn) . + . . + . . . . . . . . . . . + . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 82
Cl am-St uffed Mushrooms (The Crab Trap) . . . . . . . . = . . o . . . . . . . . . . . . 275
Col e Sl aw (The Catfi sh Pl ace) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 89
Conch Fri tters ( Hal f Shel l Raw Bar) . . . . . . o . . o . . o . . o . . . . . . . . . 238
Conch Fri tters (Mangrove Mama's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . + . . . . . 230
Hushpuppi es (The Catfi sh Pl ace) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 88
Nassau Gri ts (Coffee Cup) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . + . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Oni on Ri ngs wi t h Sesame Seeds
(Mangrove Mama' s) . + . . . . . . . . . . . . . . = . . . . . . + . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232
Platanos Maduros/Sweet Bananas
(La Esqui na de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
Sauerkraut (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Spi ced Appl es (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Swamp Cabbage Ambrosi a (Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) . . . . . = . . o . . . . . . 1 07
Soups and Chowders
Fi sherman' s Chowder (Jack' s Skyway) . . . . . o . . . o . o . . = . . + , . . . 1 54
Garbanzo Bean Soup (Latam) . . . + . . . . + t . . o t + . . . . . . . . . . + . . . . + . t . 1 20
New Engl and Corn Chowder (Oviedo I nn) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . + . . 1 80
Qui ck Garbanzo Bean Soup (La Teresi ta) . . . . . . . . o . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 29
Turtl e Soup (Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) . . . + . . . . . . + . . . . . + . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 01
Watermel on Soup ( Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) . . . . . . . . + . . . . . . . . . 1 03
Soy Gri ts
Soy Gri ts for Balanced Protei n Bread
(The Ol d Spani sh Sugar Mi l l ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 76
Swamp Cabbage
Hearts of Pal m Salad (Joh nson's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . o . . . . . 80
Swamp Cabbage ( Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 04
Swamp Cabbage (Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . o . . . . . . . + 251
Swamp Cabbage- Ambrosi a (Al l en' s Hi stori cal Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 07
Swamp Cabbage Salad (Fl ora and El l a' s Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
Swamp Cabbage wi t h Potatoes (Fl ora and
El l a' s Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253
Vegetables
See Frui ts and Vegetabl es
301
Back on Tose Back Roads
Again
1982 Don Grooml
uft lummsr {1982} / drovs 700mi/sl scroll Amsrc to fnd
out i i'l Itil thsrs, snd in C$S you'rs insrsftsd i i$,
Choru$:
Well I'm tavelin' down the back roads, not goin' anhere,
Wavin' at the counf folks on the fron porch in their chair,
Tat lite bo wih the fshin' pole don't know that I'd exchange
Eerhing I've got right now to be him once CgCin.
When I Is New York Ci, wen on that inersate,
Tat long wide ribbon o concrete was more than I could take.
So when I hit Virginia, I found a coun lane,
And I got back on those back roads again.
From the hills o Norh Carolina to Georgia's botom land
I never droe on one paved road or wen through one big town.
Just red clav banks and counf shacks and a swimming hole now
and then
'Cause I' m back on those back roads a9ain.
302
Wen from Georgia down to Aorida 'cause the road that I was on
Didn't know where I was goin', wouldn't have cared i i had knon.
You can keep your crowded cities, just gie me te land
And put me on those back roads again.
I said I'm travelin' down the back roads, not goin' anhere,
Wavin' at the coun folks on the fron porch in their chair,
Tat lite bo with the fshin' pole don't kno that I'd exchange
Eetthing I've got right no to be him once again.
Se me down on a rier bank; put a cane pole in m hand,
I'm back on those back roads again.
I said I'm back on those back roads again.
(Don Gromg ig , prfggor of br,;cdng ,f fh, UnillH of
Rori;, in G,ineNi/e. A ChlfokBB In;i,n, he i$ , "gul" ,nl
finlf ,f the ,nnUI Ror;, Folk Fed,l.j
303
NOTES
ORDER FORM
Send LaFRAY PUBLI SHI NG COMPANY
to: P. O. Box 76400, St. Petersburg, FL 33734
Phone: (81 3) 821 -3233
, copi es of Cracker Cookin' and Other $ . ,
Favorites @ $9.95 each
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Add postage and handl i ng @ $2. 00 each $ .
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to: P. O. Box 76400, St. Petersburg, FL 33734
Phone: (81 3) 821 -3233
. copi es of Cracker Cookin' and Other $ .
, copi es of The Underwater Gourmet $ _
The Great Seafood Book @ $9.95 each
, copi es of Famous FloridafTM $ ..
Add postage and handl i ng @ $2.00 each $ ..
Fl ori da resi dents add 5% sal es tax @ $ ._
$. 50 each
TOTAL ENCLOSED $ ,,
to: P. O. Box 76400, st. Petersburg, FL 33734
Phone: (81 3) 821 -3233
. copi es of Cracker Cookin' and Other $ .
,. copi es of The Underwater Gourmet $ _,
The Great Seafood Book @ $9. 95 each
. copi es of Famous FloridafTM
$ ..,
Add postage and handl i ng @ $2. 00 each $
Fl ori da resi dents add 5% sal es tax @ $ ...
$.50 each
TOT AL ENCLOSED $ . ,
305
A FOOD-TRAVEL-AND HISTOR
LOVER'S DELIGHT
What are some of t he t hi ngs Fl ori da is most famous for?
Al l i gators, oranges, I ndi ans, Spani sh and Cuban
heri tage, conch, and pal m trees!
FAMOUS FLORI DNM ! CRACKER COOKI N' AND OTH ER
FAVORI TES i s f i l l ed wi t h these popul ar symbol s of t he Sun
shi ne State. Here i n one vol ume are vi gnettes of l ong-estab
l i shed back-roads eateries where Cracker favori tes are served,
toget her wi th i nstruct i ons on how to prepare these di shes
yoursel f.
As a combi nat i on cookbook/t our gui de, CRACKER COOKI N'
i s an easy-to-use book Ponce de Leon hi msel f woul d ask for i f
he were here today.
Cook up a storm wi t h these 1 50 easy-to-prepare down-home
reci pes for tradi t i onal Fl ori da Cracker foods, I ndi an and Hi s
pani c et hni c di shes, Southern home cooki n' , and other
favori tes "i mported" by restaurant owners who have moved
to Fl ori da from other states.
You' l l enjoy popul ar choi ces such as Catfi sh Swamp Cab
bage Hushpuppies Conch Fritters Hoppi ngjohn Frog
Legs Deviled Crabs Turtle Soup Indian Fry Bread Oyster
Stew Key Lime Pie Strawberry Shortcake Garbanzo Bean
Soup Pl
a
tanos Maduros (Pl antains) Peanut Butter Pie
Spiced Apples Chicken and Dumpl ings Gator Burger
Mango-Banana Pie and many more.
For everyone who l oves si mpl y prepared good food, a l i tt l e
fol kl ore, and a l ot of su nshi ne, FAMOUS FLORI DA!
CRACKER COOKI N' AND OTHER FAVORI TES i s j ust t he
book for you !
o
74470
I S B N 0 - 9 4 2 0 8 4 - 0 7 - 1

Florida Cracker Cookin'

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Florida Cracker Cookin&#39;

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Vi/ano Seafood Shack

Te Old Spanish Sugar Mill

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Florida Cracker Cookin'

Florida Cracker Cookin'