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Chemical finishing entails the use of chemicals to modify some property of the fiber so as to change the function, performance or aesthetic properties of the cloth or garment. The scope of chemical cloth finishing process is almost unlimited, but this chapter is mainly concerned with the achievement of dimensional stability in woolen and cellulosic knitted goods, wet and dry cross linking reactions, conferment or water and flame repellency and with the modification of the handle of synthetic fiber produce by softeners and stiffeners, etc. A limited number of specialty textile finishes, such as antistatic, are also considered.
Features & Types of Pigment That Are Used by Textile Dyers Pigments are similar to dye and mostly used in textile printing industries. Pigments have some great feature. Here I will mention these features and different types of pigments that are usually used in industry.
Features of Pigments
1. Pigment has excellent light and weathering fastness. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. By pigment the high curing is possible and has a good backing stability. It has high tintorial strength. Pigment yield bright and sharp0 color in printing. It provides excellent solvent resistance Pigments are easily dispersible. By using pigment; you can create consistent and uniqueness of shed.
I have seen a lot of Textile Engineers who are confused about the difference between dyes and pigments. There are some basic differences between dyes and pigments from which you can be clear about the main features of these two. Dyes are the material which can be applied on the fabric or yarn surface and shows color visible to they human eyes in the presence of light. Dyes can be found in liquid and solid forms. And on the other hand; Pigments are colored, white or fluorescent particulate organic and inorganic solids which usually are insoluble in water and physically, chemically unaffected by the substrates in which they are incorporated. Generally Dyes are soluble in Water. Pigments are 100% insoluble. Dyes are composed of Organic substances. Pigments are organic and inorganic materials. Dyes materials have three components; these are Chromophor, Auxhochromo and Chromogen. Other end; pigments have two parts like Chromophore and chromogen. Dyes are selectively applied. Pigments can be applied to all fibers. The fastness properties of Dyes are good. Fastness property of Pigment is average. Dyes are widely used in Dyeing. Pigments are widely used in Printing. Dyes are comparatively expensive. Pigments are comparatively cheap. A long period is needed for dyestuff to be applied. Pigments need lower time to be applied. Dyes have direct affinity to fibers. Pigment has no affinity to fibers. Pigments need other modifier to increase affinity to textile fibers.
Singeing:
It is the process of burning out projecting hairy fibres from surface of the grey fabric by assigns the fabric through a gas flame. Both sides of the fabric are burnt out by the flame. It helps in subsequent chemical process of the fabric. After dyeing or printing of singed fabric, brightness and luster of color and fabric becomes better.
Desizing:
it is the pr4ocess of removing starch materials present in the gray fabric. Generally enzyme is used to degrade and remove the starch present in the grey fabric. If those size materials are not removed from the grey fabrics, then the subsequent chemical treatments on the fabric will be irregular, which will cause he defective dyeing and printing.
Scouring:
It is the process of removing natural impurities present in the cotton fibre. The natural impurities are pectins, pectos, ash, wax, mineral compounds, etc. if those impurities present in the cotton fibres are not removed, then it will be difficult to dye or print the fabric uniformly. Normally caustic soda ash is used as main reagent fro scouring of cotton fabric.
Bleaching:
It is the process of removing natural coloring matters present in the cotton fibre. For his purpose, hydrogen peroxide, bleaching powder or other bleaching agents are used. Hydrogen peroxide is the best and most commonly used bleaching agent. If this bleaching treatment is not carried out before dyeing or printing hen the color yield and shade matching may be a great problem.
Mercerization:
It is a special chemical pre-treatment on cotton fabric t improves the properties and performance of cotton fabric. The cotton fabric is treated under tension in the 20% caustic soda solution which is called mercerization many properties of cotton fabric is improved, some of them are mentioned below: 1.Increases fabric strength 2.Increases absorbency power 3.Increases fabric luster 4.Increases fabric softness and handle property 5.Reduces dye consumption 6.Reduces chemical consumption in dyeing.
Garments made from cotton grey fabric are dyed in garments with the garments dyeing machine. Before garments dyeing some precautions are needed to avoid dyeing problems that may occur during garments dyeing.
The precautions of Garment Dyeing are discussed below:
1. Garments design should be made from engineering point of view. 2. if garmet is made after desizing, scouring and bleaching of grey fabrics and then dyed in garments form, then the possibility of problems will be reduced, 3. if possible, garments should be made from the grey fabrics of the same lot and same source. 4. the seams should not be too tight or too loose especiallu in the areas containing elastic like waistband, cuff aetc which may create irregular dye penetration resulting irregular dyeing. 5. the garmens which are produced from woven and knitted fabrics combindly, he knit fabric should be pre-shrunked, otherwise seam pucker may develop after garments dyeing. 6. if the garment fabric is of mixed fibres, during gaments dyeing, dye selection should be done carefully, having equqal dye pick up to avoid irregular dyeing. 7. poor quality metals should bot be used as accessories in the garments, which may vbe damaged duing dyeing by the action of salt and alkali. If any metal component is used in the garments should be made from nickel or its alloy. 8. sewing thread used for making the garment should be of same fibre like the garment fabric, other43wise colour difference may occur between garments fabric and sewing thread. 9. button used in the garments should be selected carefully. Buttons made from casin, cellulose, mylon etc. may be damaged during garments dyeing but polyester button is safe in this project. 10. if elastic is used in the garments and the elastic is made from natural rubber of polyurethance fibre like lycrea amy create problelm during garments dyeing. To avoid such problem dye should be selected made of copper free. During bleaching, polyurethance fibres may be damaged by the chlorine. Polyester type elastomeric fibre is safe in peroxide bleaching. 11. interlining is used in most garments. Only those interlinings should be sed in the garments to be dyed only recommended for garments dyeing, otherwise the performance of interlining may
be destroyed. 12. the garments made from compactly woven cotton fabric should be dyed with hot brand reactive dyes, otherwise problem of irregular dye penetration may occur. 13. for some specific colour, if specific dyes are dused then the dyeing cost will be lower. For example, navy blue and black colour could be procuce in the garments by using sulpher dyes at lower cost. 14. presence of mineral impurities in the cotton fibres may vary which may impede the stability of peroxide liquor during bleaching with bydrogen peroxide. Even insoluble compounds may form during hydrogen peroxide bleaching. Those insoluble compounds may redposit on chemicals are available to avoid such problem. 15. Crease marks may develop in the cotton garments during dyeing. To avoid such problem, special chemicals like Imacol Brand may be used.
Less Investment Cost: As there is no machine required in hand screen printing and it is possible to print in a shorter space; the total investment in hand screen printing is comparatively lower than other screen printing system. No Risk: No heavier instrument or machine tools are used in hand screen printing. So, there is no risk. Multi-color Design Can be Printed: In hand screen printing procedures various colors can be used effectively. Less Floor Space Is Required: As no heavier and bigger machines and related tools are used, the hand screen printing requires lower space to install. Suitable For Small Scale Production: If you want to install a screen printing factory for you local business, you can choose the hand screen printing at the initial stage as it requires lower cost or investment.
Slow Production Rate: As no machine is used and all of the process are done by manually; the production rate becomes lower than other printing process. Small Scale Production: If you want to own a big screen printing factory or if you have some bigger plan in future; the hand screen printing is not for you. Due to some reason this kind of printing process provides you lesser production rate. Labor Intensive Process: A labor has to work manually and all of the process of the hand screen printing is done by the hands. So it needs more time to produce a product. Fastness Properties Are Average: As all of the process is done manually, the fastness properties of the printed fabric is not well. Difficult to maintain even penetration and print paste. Skilled Man-Power is required.
Detergents are surface active compounds which get orient at the interface (between water and air) and reduce interfacial tension. It removes dirt from the surface of the textile material by emulsification and suspends the dirt in cleaning liquid. Detergent effects on textile drastically. Classification of Detergent: Detergents impacts on textile are classified mainly in two- 1. Ionic 2. Non-ionic. Ionic detergent also divided into three 1. Anionic 2. Cationic 3. Amphoteric. 1. Anionic Detergent: After being ionized, anion is the dominating ion. For example Soap. The reaction isC17H35CooNa C17H35Coo- + Na+ C17H35Coo- this portion is very large and dominating ion. 2. Cationic Detergent: After being ionized, cation is the dominating ion. Example- Catyl Pyridinium Chloride. 3. Amphoteric Detergent: Soluble in water and produces both cation & anion. This detergent a) posses affinity to wool and cellulose fibres. B) Has lubricating properties. C) Behave like anionic in the alkaline solution. 4. Non-ionic Detergent: When dissolved, get oriented at the surface and reduce surface tension. Dont get ionized and contains hydrophilic head and hydrophobic tail. Here Hydrophobic means it does not attract the water and the Hydrophillic means it attracts the water.
Chemistry of Surfactants Surfactants is of two kinds 1. Ionic Surfactants. 2. Non- Ionic Surfactants. Ionic Surfactants is of three kinds like 1. Anionic Surfactants, 2. Cationic 3. Amphoteric.
Ionic Surfactants :
Anionic, Cationic & Amphoteric Surface Active Agents are called Ionic Surfactants or Surface Active Agents.
Anionic Surfactants:
It can be defined as those surfactants which when dissolved in water ionize into long Anions and small cations.
Cationic Surfactants:
Cationic Surfactants can be defined as those surfactants which when dissolved in water ionize into long Cations and small Anions.
Amphoteric Surfactants:
Amphoteric Surfactants or surface active agents are those agents which when dissolved in water ionize and produce large segments carrying both anionic and cationic charges.
Non-Ionic Surfactants:
Non-Ionic surfactants are those surfactants which are soluble in water and reduce the surface tension of water, but, they do not generally ionize when dissolved in water.
Mordanting
Firstly use Tertaremetic Acid. Then use Fibre+ Tannic Acid Fixation to create Tannin Mordanting Cellulose. In this cases the alternating synthetic mordents may be used.
Mordanting Fixing:
Tannic Acid=4% Tertaremetic Acid=2% M : L= 1:20 M : L = 1:20 Time = 2 hrs Time = 30 Min Temp = Boiling Temp= Boiling
3. Dyeing:
Dye1% M : L 1 : 20 Time 1 hrs Temperature above 70 By following above mentioned three steps the Textile Fibre is dyed usually which have no affinity to dyes directly.
Different Dyes Which Are Used To Dyeing The Fabric & Yarn
Dyeing Fabric using different dyestuff is the most common things that every Textile Engineers should have to know. There are many kind of dyes are used to dyeing fabric. Maximum of them are suitable for fabric dye and yarn dyeing.
Basic dyes:
These are generallyu ammonium, sulphonium or a uxonium salt. Famous for bright shade during dyeing fabric. Water soluble and application on cotton and other cellulosic fibre and leathers.
Acid dyes:
chemically acid dyes belongs to various subclasses such as nitro nitroso, monoazo, diazo, xanthance azine, quinoline, anthraquinone etc. they are water soluble and have affinity to wool, silk and nylon fibres to dyeing. They are applied to the fibres through neutral or acid dye bath.
Mordant dyes:
They are the oldest natural dyes. They have no affinity to textiles but can be applied to cellulose or protein fibres in order to dyeing fabric when they have been mordented previously with metallic salt. These dye staffs are capable of combining with metallic oxides to form insoluble colour on the fibre .
Sulpher dyes:
These are complex organic compounds containing sulphur. They are insoluble in water but sluble under reduced condition . they are usually applied cotton for cheaper shades, have high wet fastness but poor light fastness during dyeing fabric.
Azoic dyes:
These are not ready made dyes. Fibres are firstly impregnated with a coupling component like bita nepthol and then combined with a diazotized base to producer insoluble dye staffs into the fibre. Their main use on cotton but also can be used to dyeing wool silk and fur.
Vat dyes:
These are very fast color on cotton and insoluble in water. They are reduced by strong reducing agent to pr9oduce leuco vat and at this stage they are soluble in water. After impregnation they are again oxidized to their original insoluble form.
Reactive dyes:
These dye staffs directly combinds with cellulose by chemical bonding i.e. covalent bonds are produced. They have excellent wash fastness. Mainly used on cotton dyeing . can also be applied on wool, silk and nylin dyeing. Dyeing is carried out in an alkine bath.
Disperse dyes:
These dye staffs are very suitable for synthetic fibres for example polyester, nylon, acrylic, cellulosic acetate, etc. high temperature dyeing methods are suitable for these dye staffs but carrier dyeing method can also be applied.
In the above mentioned dyestuff, the Reactive Dyestuff is mostly used in todays Textile Industry.