INDIAN INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE

APPAREL PRODUCTION

LAKSHMI CHALLA, M.Sc (CLOTHING & TEXTILES) HEAD OF THE DEPARTMENT IIFT COLLEGE OF FASHION

INDIAN INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

B.Sc (FAD) V SEM FAD 505 A APPAREL PRODUCTION COURSE-IN-CHARGE: LAKSHMI CHALLA Unit: 1 Introduction to Apparel Industry & production: Apparel is one of the basic necessities of human civilization along with food, water and shelter. The Apparel Industry reflects peoples lifestyles and shows their social and economic status. The Apparel and Textile industry is Indias second largest industry after IT Industry. At present, it is amongst the fastest growing industry segment and is also the second largest foreign exchange earner for the country. The apparel industry accounts for 26% of all Indian exports. The Indian government has targeted the apparel and textiles industry segments to reach $50 billion by the year 2015. China on the other hand, has already reached their target of $52 billion in 2004, and therefore, it is very possible for India to reach its target soon. One of the most interesting features of the apparel industry is that, it migrates from high cost nations to the low cost nations. The growth of the domestic demand for clothing in India is linked with the success of the retailing sector. India presently has entered the second phase of growth and is witnessing a massive rise in the domestic demand. This is primarily due to the rise in the standard of living caused by the rise in the middle-income groups. In our present economic world of demand and supply, price and quality are the key factors, which determine the success of any business. The key element here though, is the cost of labor. India and China have a comparative advantage in this industry though, their vast labor forces and the relatively low cost of labor. Since, India and China have the advantage of making textiles and so fabric costs are lower than in other countries, they have become the Apparel sourcing choice for many international companies. Sourcing choices arise from profitability. This includes considering costs, such as, buying factors of production, like land, buildings and machines versus factors affecting revenues, including pricing, marketing, and distribution. The issues of labor, material, shipping costs and tariffs structure also affect the sourcing choices. Since, apparel production is a labor-intensive activity, wage rates are also a major factor in sourcing decisions. This gives immediate competitive advantage to producers in countries like India and China to export to more developed and high cost countries like the United States and the European Union. Clothing industry has always been characterized by change and variety, but never so much as today.

Earlier the clothing traits were as follows: -Gradual changes in dress style. -Long life popular fashions -Limited variety and types of clothing produced -Traditional and conventional way of living Changes over past three decades include: -Dramatic and frequent changes in fashion, trends, lifestyle, appeal, Technology, etc -Low forward commitments in order to leave open options to exploit sudden demands during season -Competitive prices -Acceptable quality standards. -Quick response and short delivery times. Requirement of producers -A minimum of style and cloth variety -Large orders,well in advance of delivery dates -Adequate time for planning

Here are all of the sections of a garment industry have been described briefly. Unit: 2 sampling department 1. Sample Section: It is the first section of garment manufacturing process. This section is used in apparel industry fora) To make sample garment for approval. b) To make pattern sets for bulk production when needed. By this department actual consumption of fabric, costing details, stitching details and cutting details are given. Co-ordination along with the merchandising department. Though it has small manpower structure with lesser machinery, it plays major vital role for procuring the orders as well as to furnish FIRST HAND information to merchandisers as well as production department. Then samples are stitched by the sampling tailors / Line production tailors (proto sample) All the accessories are used according to spec sheet and all other instruction are followed as per the spec sheet. If any confusion in sample preparation then they consult with merchandiser and get cleared of the confusion before proceeding. After sample get prepared then the measurement checking and trimming Then sample is sent to finishing section for ironing in various bucks and table press Then packing is done as per the spec sheet requirement of poly bags, brand tags, price tags and hanged with required hanger. Finally the sample is send to buyer with proper D.C. Dispatch Chelan.

CLASSIFICATION OF SAMPLE Proto sample Corrected sample Salesmen sample Pre-production sample Production sample Shipment sample Promotion sample Development sample

Unit: 3 cutting department The first stage in manufacture of garment is cutting of materials into the necessary pattern shapes. The purpose of this chapter is to study technology of cutting department which has as its objective in cutting garment parts accurately and economically and in sufficient volume to keep the sewing department supplied with work. The four processes involved are: The planning, if appropriate, the drawing and reproduction of the marker; The spreading of the fabric to form a lay; The cutting of the fabric; The preparation of cut work for the sewing room.

1. Cutting Section: It is the second section of apparel manufacturing. In this section the following works are completeda) Marker Making b) Fabric Spreading c) Fabric Cutting The industry has always paid great attention to marker planning, because when the cutting room cuts cloth it spends around half the companys turnover. Any reduction in the amount of cloth used per garment leads to increased profit. Marker planning is conceptualizing, intuitive, open and creative process, in contrast to making up a jigsaw puzzle, which is analytical, step-by step and closed process. Consequently, marker-planning is a highly skilled activity and different people have different aptitudes for this kind of work. Computerized marker-making systems can assist, but do not replace, skilled people. The work of the marker planner is subject to change relating to The nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment The requirement of quality in cutting The requirement of production planning

1. Sewing Section: Garments cut parts are assembled here.

2. Finishing Section: It is the last step of garment making. All of the finishing processes are done here. Let yourself know what kinds of work are to be carried out in this segment-

Flow chart of garment production

DESIGN / SKETCH
SPREADING CUTTING SORTING/BU NDLING

PATTERN DESIGN
MARKER MAKING GRADING

SAMPLE MAKING PRODUCTION PATTERN

PRESSING/ FINISHING

SEWING/ASSEMBLING INSPECTION

DESPATCH

FINAL INSPECTION

PACKING

Unit:4 production department Garments manufacturing follows a flowchart where in each steps definite works are completed to carried out a complete garments. Here I will show you all of the garments manufacturing steps that you must follow to make a garment.

1. Design/ Sketch:
For the production of knit garments, or woven garments a sketch of a particular garment including its design features is essential to produce on paper so that after manufacturing of that garment could be verified or checked whether could be done manually or with the help of computer.

2. Pattern Design:

Hard paper copy of each component of the garment of exact dimension of each component is called pattern. The patterns also include seam allowance, trimming allowance, dirts, and pleats, ease allowance, any special design etc affairs. Pattern design could also be done manually or with the help of computer.

3. Sample Making:
The patterns are used to cut the fabric. Then the garment components in fabric form are used to sew/assemble the garment. Sample garment manufacturing is to be done by a very efficient and technically sound person.

4. Production Pattern:
The patterns of the approved sample garment are used for making production pattern. During production pattern making, sometimes it may be necessary to modify patterns design if buyer or appropriate authority suggests any minor modification.

5. Grading:
Normally for large scale garments production of any style needs different sizes to produce from a set of particular size of patterns, the patterns of different sizes are produced by using grade rule which is called grading.

6. Marker Making:
All the pattern pieces for all the required sizes are arranged n the paper in such a way so that maximum number of garments could be produced with minimum fabric wastag4e. Markers are made for 6, 12, 18, 24 etc. pieces. Marker is also useful to estimate fabric consumption calculations.

7. Spreading: Spreading the fabric to form a lay A study of spreading must include the following considerations; The requirements of the spreading process Methods of spreading Nature of fabric packages The requirements of the spreading process

Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives; Shade sorting of cloth pieces Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability Alignment of plies Correct ply tension Elimination of fabric faults Avoidance of distortion in the spread Methods of spreading Spreading by hand Spreading using a traveling machine/auto spreader The nature of fabric package Open fabric rolled Tubular knitted fabric-rolled and plaited Folded fabric- rolled and plaited Velvet hanging

It is the process of arranging fabrics on the spreading table as per length and width of the marker in stack form. Normally height of the lay/fabric is limited upto maximum six inches high. But 4 inch to 5 inch height of the lay is safe.

8. Fabric Cutting:
On the fabric lay/spread the marker paper is placed carefully and accurately, and pinned with the fabric to avoid unwanted movement or displacement of the marker paper. Normally straight knife cutting machine is used to cut out the garment component as per exact dimension of each patterns in stack form, care must be taken to avoid cutting defects. Precision of cut: Clean edges Unescorted, unused edges Support of the lay Consistent cutting

9. Sorting/ Bundling:
After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.

10. Sewing or Assembling:

It is the most important department/ section of a garment manufacturing industry. Sewing machines of different types are arranged as a vertical line to assemble the garments. Sequence of types of sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations. Number of sewing machine per line varies from 20 nos to 60 nos depending on the style of the ga4rmnet to be produce. Production pr line pr hour also varies from 100 to 150 pieces depending on specific circumstances. Number of sewing machine arrangement per line may be upto 60 depending on design and out put quantity of garment.

11. Inspection:
Each and every garment after sewing passes through the inspection table/ point, where the garments are thoroughly and carefully checked to detect/find any defect if present in the garment. The defects may be for example variation of measurement, sewing defect, fabric defects, spots etc. if the defect is possible to overcome, then the garment is sent to the respective person for correction. If the defect is not correctionable, then the garment is separated as wastage.

12. Pressing/ Finishing:

After passing through the inspection table, each garment is normally ironed/ pressed to remove unwanted crease and to improve the smoothness, so that the garments looks nice to the customer. Folding of the garment is also done here for poly packing of the garments as per required dimension.

13. Final Inspection:

It is the last stage of inspection f the manufactured garments on behalf of the garment manufacturing organization, to detect any defective garments before packing.

14. Packing:

After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon. The cartoon is marked with important information in printed form which is seen from outside the cartoon easily. 15. Despatch: The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the despatch department or finished product godown, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment Sequence in Cutting Room: Marker Making Fabric Spreading Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay Fabric Cutting Numbering 100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed. Shorting & Bundling Input to Sewing Room.

Comparison Between CAD Marker Making & Manual Marker Making:

1. In manual system the system is used to make maker for garment making is traditional. But in CAD system marker making is done in modern system. 2. Marker efficiencies is not visible in manual system. Other hand, marker efficiency is visible in CAD system. 3. Marker length is not visible in manual system. Marker length is visible in monitor screen at CAD system. 4. In manual, once marker is made, not possible to increase its efficiency. But in CAD it is possible to increase the efficiency at any time. 5. Marker copying is not possible manually. In CAD, by using Plotter as much as possible copy can be done. 6. Manual marker making is very time consuming method whereas, CAD is a faster method. 7. In manual system quality can not be assured. It has quality assurance. 8. Manual system costing is low but CAD is expensive.

Fabric spreading :
Fabric spreading means smooth lying out of fabrics as per marker direction. Fabric spreading is the preparatory process for cutting. In this processing no. of plies up to 300 is possible in one lay. During fabric spreading a cut order plan or composition is to be maintained. That is1. The no. of plies of each color depends on order quality and thickness of fabrics. 2. Ply length depends on marker length. 3. Right or wrong side of fabrics.

Some basic requirements of fabric spreading:

1. Alignment of plies:- During spreading each ply must be parallel to another plies at 1 side of the fabrics.

2. Correct Ply Tension: Uniform tension to be maintained during spreading for all plies. 3. Fabric must be flat: Fabric must be spread in flat form, i.e. fabric must be fold free or crinkle Free State. 4. Each ply must be covered the area of marker. 5. Fabric must be spread at one side of the spreading or cutting table, to avoid wrong direction. 6. Check or Stripe to be matched: Metal spike to be used during spreading check or stripe fabrics, when needed.What is claimed is: 1. A method of exactly positioning a transverse leading edge of a fabric web extending transversely to a longitudinal spreading direction of said fabric web in a fabric web guide of a fabric spreading machine at a starting line, comprising the following steps: (a) the fabric web is moved forward with its leading edge in the direction of spreading up to the starting line, (b) the leading edge is then detected and the fabric web slowed down and stopped, (c) after stopping it is determined whether or not the leading edge coincides with the starting line, (d) when the leading edge coincides with the starting line the positioning is finished, (e) when the leading edge does not coincide with the starting line the fabric web is withdrawn contrary to the direction of spreading until the leading edge is located at a predetermined distance behind the starting line and then the fabric web is moved forward again in the direction of spreading up to the starting line, whereupon at least steps (b) and (c) are performed again. 2. A method of exactly positioning a leading edge of a fabric web in a fabric web guide of a fabric spreading machine at a starting line, comprising the following steps: (a) the fabric web is moved forward with its leading edge in the direction of spreading up to the starting line, (b) the leading edge is then detected and the fabric web slowed down and stopped, (c) after stopping it is determined whether or not the leading edge coincides with the starting line, (d) when the leading edge does not coincide with the starting line the fabric web is withdrawn contrary to the direction of spreading for a predetermined distance wherein it

is determined whether or not the leading edge has been withdrawn by the predetermined distance and then the fabric web is moved forward again in the direction of spreading up to the starting line. 3. Method as defined in claim 2, characterized in that the fabric web is moved forward at full speed until the leading edge has reached a predetermined distance from the starting line and subsequently the leading edge is moved forward at crawling speed up to the starting line. 4. Fabric spreading machine, in particular for carrying out the method as defined in claim 2, comprising a fabric advancing means and a positioning means for laying a leading edge of a fabric web at a starting line, including at least one fabric web sensor, characterized in that at least one fabric web sensor (50, 54) is arranged both upstream and downstream of the starting line (40) in the direction of spreading so that when the leading edge (46) coincides with the starting line (40) the fabric web sensor (50) arranged upstream of the starting line is covered and the fabric web sensor (54) arranged downstream of the starting line (40) is not. 5. A method of exactly positioning a leading edge of a fabric web in a fabric web guide of a fabric spreading machine at a starting line, comprising the following steps: (a) the fabric web is moved forward with its leading edge in the direction of spreading up to the starting line, (b) the leading edge is then detected and the fabric web slowed down and stopped, (c) after stopping it is determined whether or not the leading edge coincides with the starting line, (d) when the leading edge does not coincide with the starting line the fabric web is withdrawn contrary to the direction of spreading for a predetermined distance wherein and then the fabric web is moved forward again in the direction of spreading up to the starting line, further characterized in that the fabric web is moved forward at full speed until the leading edge has reached the predetermined distance from the startling line and subsequently the leading edge is moved forward at crawling speed up to the starting line. 6. Fabric spreading machine, in particular for carrying out the method as defined in claim 5, comprising a fabric advancing means and a positioning means for laying a leading edge of a fabric web at a starting line, including at least one fabric web sensor, characterized in that at least one fabric web sensor (50, 54) is arranged both upstream and downstream of the starting line (40) in the direction of spreading so that when the leading edge (46) coincides with the starting line (40) the fabric web sensor (50) arranged upstream of the starting line is covered and the fabric web sensor (54) arranged downstream of the starting line (40) is not. 7. Fabric spreading machine, comprising a means for advancing a fabric web in a

direction of spreading up to a starting line, a positioning means for detecting a leading edge of the fabric web at the starting line and stopping said means for advancing if said leading edge coincides with said starting line, including at least one fabric web sensor arranged both upstream and downstream of the starting line in the direction of spreading so that when the leading edge coincides with the starting line the fabric web sensor arranged upstream of the starting line is covered and the fabric web sensor arranged downstream of the startling line is not, a means for withdrawing said fabric web contrary to the direction of spreading until said leading edge is positioned at a predetermined distance behind the starting line if the positioning means discovers non-coincidence with said starting line, and a means for restarting said means for advancing after positioning said leading edge at said predetermined distance. 8. Fabric spreading machine as defined in claim 7, characterized in that the fabric web sensors are located immediately adjacent the starting line. 9. Fabric spreading machine as defined in claim 3, characterized in that an additional fabric web sensor (64) is arranged at a distance upstream of the starting line (40). 10. Fabric spreading machine as defined in claim 8, characterized in that the fabric web sensors (50, 54, 64) are designed as photoelectric cells. 11. Fabric spreading machine as defined in claim 7, characterized in that an additional fabric web sensor is arranged at a distance upstream of the starting line. 12. Fabric spreading machine as defined in claim 11, characterized in that the fabric web sensors (50, 54, 64) are designed as photoelectric cells. 13. Fabric spreading machine as defined in claim 7, characterized in that the fabric web sensors are designed as photoelectric cells. Description: The invention relates to a method of exactly positioning a leading edge of a fabric web in a fabric web guide of a fabric spreading machine at a starting line. In addition, the invention relates to a fabric spreading machine, in particular for carrying out the above-mentioned method, which comprises a fabric web advancing means and a positioning means for laying a leading edge of a fabric web at a starting line, including at least one fabric web sensor. In fabric spreading machines it is necessary, for accurate spreading of the fabric, for the leading edge of the fabric web to be positioned exactly at the respective starting line for spreading to obtain a precisely measured stack of layers. In previously known methods and devices, the leading edge of the fabric web is positioned at the starting line in that a fabric web sensor which is arranged far upstream of the starting line detects the leading

edge of the fabric web and generates a signal. Following this signal, the fabric web is unwound in the direction of spreading for a predetermined period of time in response to the fabric advancing speed. This time is determined such that the length of the unwound portion of fabric web corresponds to the distance between the starting line and the fabric web sensor. However, this procedure does have, on the one hand, the disadvantage that it does not enable the fabric web to be positioned exactly at the starting line since the position of the leading edge is not determined right at the starting line and, on the other hand, the disadvantage that it is not possible to determine, with this procedure, whether the leading edge has actually reached the starting line or is located in front of or behind the starting line due to a machine error, for example faulty slowing down of the fabric advancing means. The object underlying the invention is therefore to improve a method and device of the type in question such that an exact positioning of the leading edge of the fabric web at the starting line is possible and faulty positioning can still be detected. This object is accomplished in accordance with the invention, in a method of the type described at the outset, by moving the fabric web forward with its leading edge in the direction of spreading up to the starting line, then detecting the leading edge and slowing down and stopping the fabric web, by determining, once the fabric web is stopped, whether or not the leading edge coincides with the starting line and, when the leading edge does not coincide with the starting line, by withdrawing the fabric web contrary to the direction of spreading for a predetermined distance and then moving it forward again in the direction of spreading up to the starting line. The inventive method therefore has the advantage that the position of the leading edge is detected right at the starting line and it can then be determined whether or not the leading edge is positioned exactly at the starting line. In addition, this method also takes into account the fact that guidance of the fabric web in the fabric spreading machine is always subject to play and that the fabric web, a portion of which normally lies freely in the fabric web guide, creates further sources for inaccuracies, for example due to the formation of folds or the like. For this reason, it is not possible to correct the position of the fabric web by moving it slightly forwards or backwards when the leading edge is not positioned exactly on the starting line as this would lead to additional errors and faulty positioning. The advantage of the inventive method is therefore to be seen in the fact that it rules out these additional sources of error due to the fact that the fabric web is wound back a predetermined distance and then moved forward again in the direction of spreading. This means that the fabric web is moved forward towards the starting line from the same direction and under the same conditions each time it is positioned at the starting line and so any play or other inaccuracies will have no effect. To prevent control errors or other inaccuracies occurring when the fabric web is wound back by the predetermined distance, it is advantageous for it to be determined whether or not the leading edge has been withdrawn by this predetermined distance. It is then

possible for a control means of the fabric spreading machine to detect that the fabric web has been wound back correspondingly and so, subsequently, the fabric web can be moved forward again up to the starting line. In order to be able to move the fabric web to the starting line as accurately as possible, the fabric web is moved forward at full speed until the leading edge has reached a predetermined distance from the starting line and subsequently the leading edge is moved forward at crawling speed up to the starting line. This is particularly simple when the predetermined distance by which the fabric web is withdrawn is identical to the predetermined distance from which the leading edge is moved forward at crawling speed. The inventive object is also accomplished in accordance with the invention, in a fabric spreading machine of the type described at the outset, in that at least one fabric web sensor is arranged both upstream and downstream of the starting line in the direction of spreading so that when the leading edge coincides with the starting line the fabric web sensor arranged upstream of the starting line is covered and the fabric web sensor arranged downstream of the starting line is not. A control means associated with the positioning means is therefore in a position to decide whether or not the leading edge of the fabric web is positioned exactly at the starting line and can then, it necessary, cause the fabric web to be wound back and the leading edge of the fabric web to be moved forward again up to the starting line. In conjunction with the inventive solution it may be appropriate for a plurality of fabric web sensors to be arranged both upstream and downstream of the starting line at various distances therefrom. The positioning means can then, in addition, detect any faulty positioning of the leading edge of the fabric web at the starting line and decide whether or not it is necessary to wind back the fabric web and move the leading edge forward again up to the starting line. In a further embodiment, the fabric web sensors are appropriately located immediately adjacent the starting line since this arrangement represents the most accurate possibility of detecting the position of the leading edge of the fabric web. Particularly when it is to be detected, in addition, whether the fabric web has been wound back to a sufficient extent with its leading edge, an additional fabric web sensor is provided at a distance upstream of the starting line for detecting the predetermined distance by which the fabric web is to be wound back. With this sensor, the control means of the positioning means is in a position to determine that the fabric web has been wound back a sufficient distance to compensate for all inaccuracies occurring during advancing of the fabric web. Moreover, with this sensor it is possible to switch over again to moving the fabric web forward at crawling speed up to the starting line. In a particularly simple embodiment of the fabric web sensors, these are designed as photoelectric cells, preferably photoelectric cells having an integrated source of radiation which then determine by reflection whether or not their active surfaces are covered by a fabric web.

Additional features and advantages of the invention are the subject matter of the following description as well as the drawings of a number of embodiments. In the drawings, An embodiment of an inventive fabric spreading machine, illustrated in FIG. 1, shows a spreading carriage designated as a whole as 10 and mounted for reciprocating movement along a spreading table 12 in the direction of arrow 14. This spreading carriage 10 has a fabric web guide designated as a whole as 16. This withdraws a fabric web 20 from a fabric roll 18, guides the web via deflecting rollers 22, 24, 26 and 28 to an advancing roller 30, from there the fabric web is fed to a spreading unit 32 and after passing therethrough is laid as a fabric layer 34 on the spreading table 12 in the form of a stack of layers 36. In the spreading unit 32 the fabric web 20 slides along a spreading blade 38 and is laid out as fabric layer 34 proceeding from a front laying-out edge 40 of the spreading blade 38. A cutting means designated as a whole as 42 is also integrated in the spreading unit 32. This cutting means comprises a preferably rotary knife 44 and is therefore capable of cutting off the fabric web 20 by running along the laying-out edge 40. The inventive fabric spreading machine operates such that when a fabric web 20 is rethreaded it is first pushed forward beyond the laying-out edge 40 and cut straight across along the laying-out edge 40 by the knife 44 of the cutting means 42 so that the fabric web has a straight leading edge 46 as required for an exact spreading. However, during spreading with the fabric spreading machine the fabric web 20 may not only be laid out in one direction but, in particular for so-called "spreading in pairs", has to be turned and laid out in this state, i.e. turned through 180. In this case, it is necessary to position the leading edge 46 of the fabric web 20 exactly at the laying-out edge following unthreading of the fabric web 20 from the fabric web guide 16 and renewed threading, while avoiding, if possible, any renewed cutting of the fabric web 20 to obtain a defined position of the leading edge. For this reason, the invention includes a positioning means which comprises a photosensor 50 arranged in front of the laying-out edge 40 in the direction of spreading 48 of the fabric web 20 as well as a photosensor 54 arranged behind the laying-out edge 40 in the direction of spreading 48. The active surface 52 of the photosensor 50 is preferably located immediately adjacent the laying-out edge 40 and the active surface 56 of the photosensor 54 is also preferably located immediately adjacent the laying-out edge 40. As shown in FIG. 2, the photosensors 50 and 54 are preferably mounted on a bracket 58 beneath the spreading blade 38. The photosensor 54 located downstream of the laying-out edge 40 is arranged so as to protrude beyond the leading edge 46 in the direction of spreading 48 while the photosensor 50 located upstream of the laying-out edge 40 is

arranged such that its active surface 52 is congruent with a bore 60 which penetrates the spreading blade 38 and is contiguous to the laying-out edge 40. This means that the photosensor 50 detects the fabric web 20 through the bore 60. The two photosensors 50 and 54 are preferably arranged so as to be offset relative to one another in a direction 62 transverse to the direction of spreading 48 so that their active surfaces 52 and 56, respectively, are located as close as possible to the laying-out edge 40. In addition, a further photosensor 64 is provided on the underside of the spreading blade 38 at a distance from the laying-out edge 40. The active surface 66 of this photosensor is congruent with a bore 68 and is able, through this bore, to detect the fabric web 20 lying on the spreading blade 38 at the predetermined distance upstream of the laying-out edge 40. All the photosensors 50, 54 and 64 communicate with a control means 70 which controls a drive means 72 for the advancing roller 30. When the fabric web 20 is again threaded into the fabric web guide 16 with a leading edge 46 which is already cut in a straight line, the advancing roller 30 is driven such that the fabric web 20 slides along the spreading blade 38 with its leading edge 46. When the leading edge 46 passes the photosensor 64 the latter sends a corresponding signal to the control means 70. The control means 70 then slows down the speed of the advancing roller and the leading edge 46 moves in the direction of spreading 48 towards the layingout edge at a reduced speed. As soon as the leading edge 46 covers the active surface 52 of the photosensor 50, this generates a signal to halt, on the basis of which the drive means 72 is braked and so the fabric web 20 is no longer transported further in the direction of spreading 48 by the advancing roller 30. If it is possible to carry out the braking procedure with sufficient accuracy, the active surface 66 of the photosensor 64 as well as the active surface 52 of the photosensor 50 are covered and the control means 70 determines that the leading edge 46 is now positioned exactly at the laying-out edge 40. It may, however, occur that the drive means 72 is not braked in time or due to other faults it is not determined in time that the leading edge 46 has covered the active surface 52 of the photosensor 50. In this case, the fabric web moves beyond the laying-out edge 40 and so the fabric web 20 then also covers the active surface 56 of the photosensor 54. When this is recognized by the control means it gives the drive means 72 of the advancing roller 30 the command to wind the fabric web 20 back contrary to the direction of spreading 48 and not only just so far that the leading edge 46 coincides with the laying-out edge 40 since, due to the tolerances in the fabric web guide 16 as well as the difficulty of exactly positioning the loosely falling fabric web 20, this would not represent a positioning of the leading edge 46 which is carried out with the necessary accuracy. Rather, the fabric web 20 is wound back until the photosensor 63 is no longer covered by the fabric web 20 and this is signalled to the control means 70. The control means 70 then switches over the drive means 72 of the advancing roller 30 again so that the fabric web 20 again moves, with its leading edge 46, in the direction of spreading 48 along the spreading blade 38. It first of all covers the photosensor 64 and is then moved forward at reduced speed until the active surface 52 of the photosensor 50 is covered but the active surface 56 of the

photosensor 54 is not. If this is the case, the control means 70 will recognize that the leading edge 46 of the fabric web 20 is now exactly positioned. The present disclosure relates to the subject matter disclosed in German application No. P 37 44 036.5 of Dec. 24, 1987, the entire specification of which is incorporated herein by reference. The Markers that are used in Garment Manufacturing:

Auto Marker:
The marker which is produced directly from computer that is called auto marker.

Interactive marker:
The marker which is produced with the help of operator in CAD system that is called interactive marker.

Single Size & Multi Size Marker:

In garment manufacturing, first we need multi- size marker. To complete the whole order at the last stage of cutting we need to use single size marker also.

Auto Marker:
The marker which is produced directly from computer that is called auto marker.

Interactive marker:
The marker which is produced with the help of operator in CAD system that is called interactive marker.

Single Size & Multi Size Marker:

In garment manufacturing, first we need multi- size marker. To complete the whole order at the last stage of cutting we need to use single size marker also.

Steps for computerized marker making in apparel industry:

1. Take the Software for pattern making and marker making. 2. Install this software on your computer now. 3. Here some garment measurement is needed. 4. Free hand sketching of each part of garment on monitor by mouse. 5. Check shape and measurements on each part. 6. Save this work. 7. Automatic grading is carried out. 8. Again Save it. 9. Then start marker making by one another software in the same computer.

Advantages of computerized plotting:

Patterns need only be developed once Plotting widths of over 3 metres Patterns can be precisely repeated indefinitely Patterns are easily edited and corrected Physical patterns are no longer needed Efficient nesting means less material waste Plotter can be quickly lifted off the rail and stored freeing up the space Maximum plot speeds of 1 metre per second One button start, fully automated trace, mark and write Extremely low purchase and operating costs Uses any type of pen up to 13mm in diameter 2 year warrenty. Full refund if machines returned within 2 months Lesson 6 - Lay Out, Cutting And Marking. Fabric Care: This refers to pre-shrinking the fabric and pressing it before you begin. Believe me, this is not a step to skip. You will only skip it once, if your fabric decides to shrink after you have put the work into making a garment! Pattern Sizing: Master Patterns: This area tells you about tracing your pattern if you

want to be able to use the other sizes in the future. Be sure to press the pattern pieces and the tracing material flat before you attempt to trace. Even a small mistake will magnify itself in a fitted garment or in trying to fit the pieces together while you are sewing. Cutting: "Place pattern on fabric with straight-of-grain lines parallel to salvage." First let's decide what is the straight grain. This is the threads of the fabric which run parallel to the salvage edge. Look at a pattern piece and you will see a line with arrow ends (usually near the center of the piece). This is the straight-of-grain marking that you will be measuring to the salvage edge of the fabric, so that your garment will be on the straight grain of the fabric. Notches: The directions bring up a point about cutting the notches outward. You will see these notches on the edge of pattern pieces. Many times people cut these notches inward. This will weaken the amount of strength in your seam. Please cut them outwards as the pattern instructs. Next the directions detail cutting one layer of fabric at a time and how to turn over the pattern pieces. This will be necessary if you have 45" wide fabric as indicated in the diagram at the bottom of the first page. This is important or you could end up cutting out two left sides. Mark your traced pattern if necessary so that you can see the difference in the sides of the pattern pieces. Lay Out For A Single Layer Of Fabric

Read all of the details in this section. It explains why some pattern pieces are shaded in the pattern Layout. Although it states that the layout of some of the small pieces may vary, it is still important that the pieces are on the straight of grain.

Detailed Laying Out And Cutting Instructions

Find the cutting layout diagram which is appropriate for the width of fabric that you purchased. The first page has the diagram if your fabric is 45" wide. To use this layout you will need to lay the fabric out smoothly with it not folded. Pay close attention to turning the pattern pieces over as it was explained in the directions. The second page has the layout diagram for 58" to 60" wide fabric.

The wording below the diagram tells you what size for which lay out. It helps to circle the diagram you will be working from, to prevent confusion. These layouts use the fabric folded as it was probably found in the store. Pay attention to the folded edge verses the salvage edge in the diagram. Follow the diagram to roughly lay out the pieces. Now you need your yard stick or straight measuring devise. Line up the end of the yardstick with the fabric salvage edge. Measure to one end of the arrow on one end of the pattern piece. Now measure the same way for the other end of the arrow. These measurements MUST be identical. Measure again to check you accuracy and make sure all the pieces are flat and smooth. Now pin the edges of the pattern pieces, smoothing the pattern pieces as you pin. Measure again and make sure all the pieces are flat and smooth before you pin the entire piece. Some of the pattern pieces are designed to be placed on a fold. This picture shows how to line up the pattern piece and the edge of the pattern piece. This fold is not cut. For the 45" wide fabric, the pieces are turned over and the fold line is not cut. Now is the time to even double and triple check your pinning and measuring. It is much safer to double and triple check before you pick up your scissors. Once you have cut and error may not be able to be re-done without purchasing more fabric.

Cutting
Cutting is another area that accuracy will follow through so it is important to stay accurate and take your time. Keep the scissors perpendicular to the table and follow the same area of the line. The scissors being at an angle will change the line of where you are cutting. Re-smooth the fabric when ever it is necessary.

Marking

Your fabric is all cut out but you will notice dots on the pattern. These dots are used for matching pieces in the construction of the garment and must be transferred to the fabric. I strongly recommend that you use a straight edge when you use a tracing wheel and dress makers carbon to mark you fabric. A straight edge not only gives you an edge to follow with the tracing wheel, by holding the straight edge down, you are also stopping the fabric and pattern from shifting. Thus eliminating the possibility of the markings not being in the correct spot. . You will need: Dressmakers carbon

 A tracing wheel A firm padded surface. You may want to place a magazine or a rotary cutting board under your fabric before you start to mark. Soft wood, such as pine, will dent under the pressure of the tracing wheel. You don't want to ruin your furniture. Dressmakers carbon and a tracing wheel should be available at a local source. Tracing wheels are available with a smooth wheel and a spiked wheel. The smooth wheel is less apt to make holes in your pattern piece and works well on delicate fabric. Over time, a spiked wheel will develop bent tips and is apt to snag the threads on delicate fabric. It will also make a dotted line in your pattern that is easily ripped. If you do not have a local source, there are links to on line suppliers and information in the Marking Notions. Before you start marking your fabric, you will want to test that the carbon that you choose, does not show through the fabric and that if it does it will wash out. Test this on left over scraps from cutting the robe out. What Marks to transfer! First Look at each pattern piece individually. Place the carbon between the layers of fabric so that you will be marking the wrong side of the fabric. Mark all dots. These will be used as stop and start points as well as lining up your fabrics. Mark all pocket placement lines and at least the ends of fold lines on the pockets. Although there are none on this garment, you would also mark darts. Now we are ready to start constructing the robe, but before you do another thing, stop and read all of the GENERAL CONSTRUCTION INFORMATION on page 2 of the instruction sheet. Please note the fourth comment: Finish raw edges as desired. This is important as the direction do not instruct you to finish off edges, such as the pocket and you will want to take this into consideration as you proceed. The next area is INTERFACING. It tells you to apply interfacing to Front Facing and to Pocket Facings from the fold line to the cut edge. THe interfacing you will be using will depend on your fabric. Fusible interfacing has a plastic sheet packaged with it that gives you the directions for using it.

Here is a list of cutting tools and accessories often used on cutting department in garment industry: 1. Scissor 2. Straight Knife. 3. Band Knife 4. Round Knife 5. Die Cutter 6. Computerized Knife Cutter. 7. Computerized Laser Cutter. 8. Drill Machine.

There are three major methods that used in our garment industry. 1. Fully Manual: By using scissor. In this method it is not possible to cut fabric directly from the lay.

2. Manually Operated Powered Knife Method. 3. Computerized Method.

Uses of Scissor in Garment Industry:

In Sample Section: 1. To cut fabric for sample garment. 2. Used for pattern cutting & making. In Cutting Section: 1. Not possible to cut fabric directly from the lay. 2. To cut roll end during fabric processing. 3. Used for faulty parts replacement. In Sewing Section: 1. For thread cutting. 2. Used for label cutting if needed. Finishing Section: In finishing section scissor is used for packaging and cartooning purpose. 1. This machine worked as saw mill technique. 2. Not possible to cut fabric directly from lay. 3. Block pieces of fabric required in bundle form to cut by this machine. 4. Blade moving vertically through a flat working table. 5. Machine remains stationary and fabric is moveable. 6. Specially used to cut small parts more accurately.

Disadvantages of Band Knife Machine:

1. Fabric wastage is high. 2. Work load high. 3. Push cutting needles in better vision but is more dangerous. 1. Firstly, switch on this cutting machine. 2. Then, place the cutting machine at any corner of the table.

3. Then switch on the blade. 4. Then the operator moves the machine by hand through the stationary fabric layers and cut along marker lines until finish the marker. Disadvantages of Straight Knife as Cutting Machine: 1. Blade deflection occurs so quality may be hampered. 2. Skill hand required.

Garments Trimmings:
Those accessories which are used in sewing section are called trimmings.

Garments Accessories:
Fabric is the basic material in garment manufacturing. Except fabric, the other materials are known as accessories. For shirt making there are some accessories are commonly used. These are- 1. Sewing Thread 2. Button. 3.Interlining, 4. Labels 5. Collar Bone etc. There are some finishing accessories: 1. Neck Board, 2. Back Board, 3. Tissue 4. Butter fly 5. Price Ticket, 6. Hang Tag, 7.Al-pin, 8. Ball Head Pin 9. Plastic Clip, 10. Tag Pin 11. Poly Bag etc.

Garment Pattern:
The individual par of a garment which is shaped by hard paper is called pattern.

Working Pattern:
The patterns set which is used for sample making are called Working Pattern.

Marker:
Marker is a large thin paper which contains shape of required pattern pieces or a particular style of garments.

Fabric Spreading:
Spreading means smooth lying out of fabrics as per marker length and width.

Fabric Cutting:

Cutting is the process by which we can cut fabrics as per marker dimension with the help of knife.

Bespoke Garments:
Bespoke Garments are made on the basis of individual clients and according to the individuals size and requirement.

Ready to Wear Garments:

Ready to wear garments is made on the basis of target common groups, according to size charts, derived from statistical analysis.

Interlining:
Interlining is one kind of trimmings which is placed between two layer of garment parts in garment manufacturing

Lining:
Lining is one kind of trimmings which is used underside of garments and use in next to skin.

The main features of (nonwoven interlining) Fusible Interlining is described below:

1. It should not be harmful with body or skin. 2. It should be water washable or dry cleanable. 3. It should be transparent. 4. It should have sufficient bond strength. 5. It should be fused within temperature from 110 to 175 degree centigrade.

Resin:
1. Polyethylene. 2. Polypropylene 3. Polyamide 4. Poly Ester 5. PVA 6. PVC

From the above mentioned resin the polyester is the best Interlining; the reason is1. It can be water washable and dry cleanable. 2. Can be used in any kind of garments. 3. Available in the market.

Every sewing needle that are used in garment or apparel industry has some features. The sewing needle features have been mentioned below:-

Butt of Needle:
1. Truncated conical shape at the top of the needle. 2. Facilitates its insertion into the needle bar or clamp.

Shank of Sewing Needle:

1. Usually larger in diameter than the rest of the needle. 2. Shank can be cylindrical shape or flat on one side.

Shoulder:
This section joined with the shank to the blade.

Blade:
The longest section of the needle.

Grooves

1. On one side of needle long groove protects the needle thread. 2. Short groove opposite side, passage thread into material.

Eye:
Elliptical hole prevents thread damage during sewing. Point: this is shaped to provide the best penetration.

Tip Of Needle:
Combined with the point, for ease penetration in textile fabric or dresses

General Terms of Textile Apparel Needles: 1. Needle:

The hooked metal needle is the principal knitting element of the knitting machine. There are two types of knitting needle are used usually: a) Independent Needle:- Needle which can slide in the needle bed and can be moved individually during the stitch forming process. b) United Needle: Needles which are fixed in the needle bar and can only be moved in unison during the loop forming process.

2. Needle Carrier:
A part of a knitting machine containing independently moved needles in a needle bed or united needles in a needle bar to help in knitting action. The needle carrier may be circular or flat or cylindrical and dial type or V-bed type.

3. Working Width:
Working width is the distance between the 1st and last needle in a flat needle bed.

4. Actual Width:
It is the distance between the 1st and the last needle actually used in the needle bed during knitting.

5. Machine or Needle Gauge:

No. of needles ber unit length of a knitting machine is called needle gauge.

6. Needle Pitch:
the distance between two adjacent needles in the same needle bed from the centre of a needle to the centre of a neighboring needle. Needle Pitch = 1/ Needle Gauge

7. No. of feed system:

On the circumference of a circular knitting machine, upto 120 knitting cam set can be mounted, each can set fed with a separate yarn. The result is obtaining 120 knitted loop course is one machine revolution. No. of Feeders= No. of Course.

Hand sewing is an art form that is over 20,000 years old. The first sewing needles were made of bones or animal horns and the first thread was made of animal sinew. Iron needles were invented in the 14th century. The first eyed needles appeared in the 15th century. Birth of Mechanical Sewing The first possible patent connected to mechanical sewing was a 1755 British patent issued to German, Charles Weisenthal. Weisenthal was issued a patent for a needle that was designed for a machine, however, the patent did not describe the rest of the machine if one existed. Several Inventors Attempt to Improve Sewing The English inventor and cabinet maker, Thomas Saint was issued the first patent for a complete machine for sewing in 1790. It is not known if Saint actually built a working prototype of his invention. The patent describes an awl that punched a hole in leather and passed a needle through the hole. A later reproduction of Saint's invention based on his patent drawings did not work. In 1810, German, Balthasar Krems invented an automatic machine for sewing caps. Krems did not patent his invention and it never functioned well. Austrian tailor, Josef Madersperger made several attempts at inventing a machine for sewing and was issued a patent in 1814. All of his attempts were considered unsuccessful. In 1804, a French patent was granted to Thomas Stone and James Henderson for "a machine that emulated hand sewing." That same year a patent was granted to Scott John Duncan for an "embroidery machine with multiple needles." Both inventions failed and were soon forgotten by the public. In 1818, the first American sewing machine was invented by John Adams Doge and John Knowles. Their machine failed to sew any useful amount of fabric before malfunctioning. Barthelemy Thimonnier - First Functional Machine & a Riot The first functional sewing machine was invented by the French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier, in 1830. Thimonnier's machine used only one thread and a hooked needle

that made the same chain stitch used with embroidery. The inventor was almost killed by an enraged group of French tailors who burnt down his garment factory because they feared unemployment as a result of his new invention. Walter Hunt & Elias Howe In 1834, Walter Hunt built America's first (somewhat) successful sewing machine. He later lost interest in patenting because he believed his invention would cause unemployment. (Hunt's machine could only sew straight steams.) Hunt never patented and in 1846, the first American patent was issued to Elias Howe for "a process that used thread from two different sources." Elias Howe's machine had a needle with an eye at the point. The needle was pushed through the cloth and created a loop on the other side; a shuttle on a track then slipped the second thread through the loop, creating what is called the lockstitch. However, Elias Howe later encountered problems defending his patent and marketing his invention. For the next nine years Elias Howe struggled, first to enlist interest in his machine, then to protect his patent from imitators. His lockstitch mechanism was adopted by others who were developing innovations of their own. Isaac Singer invented the up-and-down motion mechanism, and Allen Wilson developed a rotary hook shuttle. Isaac Singer Vs Elias Howe - Patent Wars Sewing machines did not go into mass production until the 1850's, when Isaac Singer built the first commercially successful machine. Singer built the first sewing machine where the needle moved up and down rather than the side-to-side and the needle was powered by a foot treadle. Previous machines were all hand-cranked. However, Isaac Singer's machine used the same lockstitch that Howe had patented. Elias Howe sued Isaac Singer for patent infringement and won in 1854. Walter Hunt's sewing machine also used a lockstitch with two spools of thread and an eye-pointed needle; however, the courts upheld Howe's patent since Hunt had abandoned his patent. If Hunt had patented his invention, Elias Howe would have lost his case and Isaac Singer would have won. Since he lost, Isaac Singer had to pay Elias Howe patent royalties. As a side note: In 1844, Englishmen John Fisher received a patent for a lace making machine that was identical enough to the machines made by Howe and Singer that if Fisher's patent had not been lost in the patent office, John Fisher would also have been part of the patent battle. After successfully defending his right to a share in the profits of his invention, Elias Howe saw his annual income jump from three hundred to more than two hundred thousand dollars a year. Between 1854 and 1867, Howe earned close to two million

dollars from his invention. During the Civil War, he donated a portion of his wealth to equip an infantry regiment for the Union Army and served in the regiment as a private. The 1834 eye pointed needle sewing machine of Walter Hunt was later re-invented by Elias Howe of Spencer, Massachusetts and patented by him in 1846. Each sewing machine (Walter Hunt's and Elias Howe's) had a curved eye pointed needle that passed the thread through the fabric in an arc motion; and on the other side of the fabric a loop was created; and a second thread carried by a shuttle running back and forth on a track passed through the loop creating a lockstitch. Elias Howe's design was copied by Isaac Singer and others, leading to extensive patent litigation. However, a court battle in the 1850s conclusively gave Elias Howe the patent rights to the eye pointed needle. The court case was brought by Elias Howe against Isaac Merritt Singer, the largest manufacturer of sewing machines for patent infringement. In his defense, Isaac Singer attempted to invalidate Howe's patent, to show that the invention was already some 20 years old and that Howe should not have been able to claim the royalties from anyone using his designs that Singer had been forced to pay. Since Walter Hunt had abandoned his sewing machine and had not filed for a patent, Elias Howe's patent was upheld by a court decision in 1854. Isaac Singer's machine was also somewhat different from Howe's. Its needle moved up and down, rather than sideways, and it was powered by a treadle rather than a hand crank. However, it used the same lockstitch process and a similar needle. Elias Howe died in 1867, the year his patent expired. Other Historical Moments in the History of the Sewing Machine On June 2, 1857, James Gibbs patented the first chain-stitch single-thread sewing machine. Zig-zag Stitch Machine Helen Augusta Blanchard of Portland, Maine (1840-1922) patented the first zig-zag stitch machine in 1873. The zig-zag stitch better seals the edges of a seam, making a garment sturdier. Helen Blanchard also patented 28 other inventions including a hat-sewing machine, surgical needles, and other improvements to sewing machines. Electricity

The first mechanical sewing machines were used in garment factory production lines. It was not until 1889 that a sewing machine for use in the home was designed and marketed. By 1905, the electrically-powered sewing machine was in wide use. SEWING Before the invention of a useable machine for sewing, everything was sewn by hand. Most early attempts tried to replicate this hand sewing method and were generally a failure. Some looked to embroidery, where the needle was used to produce decorative, not joining stitches. This needle was altered to create a fine steel hook - called an aguja in Spain. This was called a crochet in France and could be used to create a form of chain stitch. The ultimate look of the garment depends on how the patterned parts are attached together by means of sewing. Any variation in sewing will lead to defective material. Sewing is as tough as making pattern for any difficult style. Hence much concentration is to be paid while doing this job. Sewing can be classified into two groups and they are Hand sewing, Machine sewing Hand sewing can be best suited for some special and temporary purposes, it is not being dealt here, as most of the garments are machine made and mass-produced. Our main emphasize is focused onto the machine sewing. Generally machine sewing is carried out on materials like woven and knitted fabrics, particularly in textile application. Again this may be on various fabrics having different quality parameters. HOW IT CAME ABOUT As with most innovations, the sewing machine was invented in stages. In 1755, Charles T. Wiesenthal of the United States patented a double-pointed sewing needle, which did not need to be turned around between stitches. In 1830, a Frenchman, Barthelemy Thimonnier, attached Wiesenthal's needle to a connecting rod to make a sewing machine. (I can't see how this would have worked, and I haven't been able to find more detail.) In 1846, Elias Howe (an American) created the lock-stitch sewing machine. This used the modern mechanism, as described below. Because the lock-stitch mechanism is the core of the function of the modern sewing machine, Howe is generally credited with its invention. However, his machine was difficult to use well, and too expensive for home use. In 1849, the American Benjamin Wilson introduced an automatic feeding mechanism, which solved the main usability problem with Howe's machine. In 1851, Bostonian Isaac Meritt Singer patented two refinements to the sewing machine: a fixed arm structure still used today, and the presser foot. He began manufacturing a sewing machine priced for home use. His company, Singer, is still the largest sewing machine manufacturer in the world. The sewing machine predates electricity. Early machines used a hand crank or a treadle to drive them. These turned out to be easily electrified, and many are still in use today. Later innovations (apart from electricity) include the ability to zigzag and to make more sophisticated stitching patterns. The latest machines have LCD screens, microprocessors, and pre-programmed fonts f o r monogramming. (All cute, but unnecessary).