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n Vietnam, there is a sense of lightning progress and blockbuster attractions such as the limestone karst-studded wonderland of Halong Bay; in Cambodia, the darkness of the recent past is being countered by increased investment and growing confidence. Meanwhile, in sleepy Laos, a booming contingent of lotus-eaters from around the world is helplessly seduced by the countrys languorous charms. Vastly different they may be, but more links the three countries than traumatic history and optimism for the future. Until conflicts disfigured these locations, a king ruled each one. And today, the royal legacy of each of these destinations endures as an echo of its former self.

Triple beauties
After decades of war and deprivation, three former colonies of Indochina have each emerged, in very distinct ways, as prime tourist destinations. By Duncan Forgan

HUE Vietnam is a land of wordsmiths and there are few locations in this beautiful country that have not been celebrated in verse. It is arguable, however, whether anywhere is more worthy of poetry than the nations former imperial seat of power. The Nguyen Lords, the feudal dynasty that dominated much of southern Vietnam from the 16th to 19th century, chose their capital wisely. On the banks of the effortlessly evocative Song Huong (Perfume River) they constructed a Citadel and lavish oriental wonderland of tombs, temples and palaces, which stand testament to the dynastys lofty sense of aesthetics and its equally towering arrogance and disconnection with its humble subjects. When the French took over in 1885, they burnt libraries and looted palaces but also upped the ante even further by bequeathing the city with a leafy enclave of boulevards and grand architecture on the rivers south side. War with the Americans presented Hue with its toughest test yet. The city was levelled during the Tet Offensive of 1968 when approximately 10,000 perished in a vicious battle. Hue is a place, however, where beauty cannot be subjugated. While many of Vietnams ruined towns and cities re-emerged as odes to functional and faceless >

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Communist reconstruction, Hue rose from the dust with its grandeur tarnished but largely undestroyed. The Citadel wall presents an imposing barrierits blackened surface still pockmarked by bullet holes from the conflict that defined Vietnams 20th century. Beyond it, however, the phoenix that is Hues imperial heritage continues to rise from the ashes. The Forbidden Purple City, a walled compound reserved for the personal use of the emperor and his concubines, remains a sad ruin, but showpiece attractions such as the The Mieu Temple Complex have been expertly restored. In this part of the old city, ornate gates depicting dragons, demons and battle scenes lead to towering temples and peaceful pagodas. The Citadel might be the most obvious reminder of Hues royal legacy, but other tokens of its past are myriad. Ho Quyen, the arena where emperors used to watch duels between tigers and elephants, is bedraggled but still intact while the magnificent tombs of the Nguyen kings are examples of the flair of the rulers. PHNOM PENH The sight of the royal palace in Phnom Penh is one that could soften even the hardest of hearts. Cambodias capital has been through the mill as thoroughly as anywhere on earth over the course of the last 40 years. However, the vast compound of golden-spired temples and grandiose pavilions has stood as a replenishing source of national pride in the most desperate of times. The city only became the royal seat of power in the mid-19th century when King Norodom relocated from the former capital of Oudong and ordered the construction of the Royal Palace complex. During the French colonial period, the Cambodian kings were largely impotenttheir benevolent presence helped to douse the flames of nationalism. The ascent of King Norodom Sihanouk to the throne and the collapse of colonial power heralded a new era of uncertainty. Over the next 50 years, Sihanouks fortunes would fluctuate as radically as his countrys. He helped lead his country to independence, but was deposed by a U.S.-backed coup during the Vietnam War in which Cambodia was inexorably embroiled. During the Khmer Rouge era, he was reinstated as a convenient figurehead and kept under house arrest in the palace. When the Vietnamese ousted Pol Pots brutal regime, he was forced into exile for over a decade before returning to the throne back in 1993. These days, Sihanouks eldest son, Norodom Sihamoni, occupies the throne but the real power is wielded by Hun Sen, Cambodias strongman prime minister. While Phnom Penhs royal heritage may be largely symbolic, the presence of the palace provides a stabilising focus for pride in a city that is evolving as fast as any in the region. The riverside area is a case in point. Its slick new bars, boutique hotels and restaurants offer a glimpse into the future while touts, beggars and limbless land-mine victims are a reminder of where Cambodia has been. Grab yourself a pew with a view at the famous Foreign Correspondents Club and watch the Tonle Sap meander its way towards its confluence with the Mekong while nursing an icy bottle of Angkor Beer. Amidst all the changes, the Royal Palace provides historical context. The ideal time to visit is late afternoon when the tourist stragglers are heading for the exit and the sinking sun imbues the complex with an ethereal, almost magical, russet glow. LUANG PRABANG If prizes were handed out for the most beautiful cities on the planet then Luang Prabang would be fighting with heavyweights such as Rio de Janeiro and Cape Town. The sunset vista from the crown of the hill known as Phu Si is one of the most arresting sights in town. From here the valley unfolds like an emerald blanket towards the verdant mountains in the distance. Most visitors take in the tableaux at sunset, watching the light reflect upon the Nam Khan River before descending back into the melee of the night market to catch a bite to eat. Its almost impossible to quibble with Luang Prabangs status as the premier tourist spot in Laos. The city delivers in pretty much every area. Saffronrobed monks and impossibly ornate temples such as Wat Xieng Thong offer spiritual solace, lavish hotels such as Villa Maly and chic eateries such as Tamarind raise the comfort stakes while the string of open air bars lining the Mekong River offer cold beer and cheap cocktails in a setting that bypasses the convivial and moves directly to jaw-dropping. The royal heritage here has been less impacted by the tumultuous events of the late 20th century than in Indochinas other historical seats of monarchical power. Although the royal family was deposed by the communist Pathet Lao movement in the countrys 1975 revolution, their palace and its surrounding temples remain mercifully intact. The town may have sacrificed a little bit of its soul in exchange for its worldwide fame. The unvarnished Luang Prabang is never far away, however. You just need to know where to look for it. A good place to start is the night market where quintessential Lao dishes such as ping paa (grilled fish), larb (meat salad with mint), and sticky rice are served up at criminally low prices. It is a banquet fit for a king in a city that has maintained its regal poise long after the departure of its royalty.

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PHoToS corbis and photolibrary PHoToS corbis and photolibrary

Freshwater fish on sale in Luang Prabang Market, Laos.

Where to stay
Hue la residence: This former residence of the French Governor is one of the finest examples of Art Deco architecture in the tropics. Inside it is equally resplendent. Two additional wings were added to the original mansion in 2005, and the renovation has added grandeur to the hotels already heady Indochinese ambience. www.la-residence-hue.com PHnom PenH sofitel phnom penh phokeethra: The first five-star hotel to open in Phnom Penh in over a decade, this outpost of the French chain is suitably opulent. The hotels design fuses traditional Khmer elements with modern touches while the interior, the plush rooms and the range of top-end restaurants are as luxurious as you might expect. www.sofitel.com Luang Prabang Villa Maly: Built by the grandson of a Lao king, this charming boutique option is a fitting base from which to explore the former royal capital. Beautifully realised rooms with period touches and modern amenities surround a gorgeous tropical garden and a generously sized outdoor pool. www.villa-maly.com

Kuang Si waterfall, Luang Prabang, Laos.

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