MADURAI

Meenakshi on My Mind
By Lalitha Sridhar
At a Glance Name The name Madurai is traced from Madura or sweet nectar of Shiva Age According to the Arthashastra (dated between 2nd BC and 2nd AD), Madurai was an important centre for cotton fabrics State Tamil Nadu Location A gently sloping land that lies on either side of the dry Vaigai River, stretching from north-west to southeast Distances 477 km SW of Chennai; 452 km SE of Bangalore Route from Chennai NH45 to Dindigul via Tindivanam, Tiruchirappalli and Vadamadurai; NH7 to Madurai via Mettur Alternative route from Trichy NH45B to Madurai via Viralimalai, Kottampatti and Melur Fast Facts When to go Oct-Mar. Catch Pongal festivities in Jan and the Chithirai Festival in April-May Tourist offices Dept of Tourism, Govt of TN West Veli Street, Madurai Tel: 0452-2334757 STD code 0452 Road Smooth drive down NH45 and 7 from Chennai. NH45B from Trichy is currently bad. Other options: AC sleeper coaches (Rs 350 approx), ST non-AC deluxe and semi-deluxe buses (Rs 150-200) run by private operators Madurai displays all the qualities of a historical Indian city. Somewhere in the mess of traffic snarls and ugly development, you may well find yourself standing in a queue a second time round, unmindful of the hum of ventilators and the oppressive heat, to catch a glimpse of Meenakshi. Is Madurai Meenakshi or is Meenakshi Madurai? Some answers lie in the myths surrounding Meenakshi, some in the city of Madurai. Among the favourite legends is the one about the childless king, Malayadwaja Pandyan and his queen, Kanchanamala. A girl-child appeared miraculously at the altar of their ceremonial prayers. Alas, she was not the son they desired and worse, she had three breasts. They named her Taatakai. She grew up to be a beautiful maiden with eyes (aksham) like a fish (meen); therefore, Meenakshi. A great warrior, Meenakshi conquered many lands till one day, she reached Mount Kailash. Here she met Lord Shiva and lo, her third breast disappeared, just as the prophecy at her birth had ordained. Shiva promised to wed her at Madurai, as Sundareshwarar (the Shiva of Beauty). Vishnu gave the bride away in a celestial wedding like none other. The couple stayed on as presiding deities of Madurai and still watch over the city.

But this is not the only legend. Another colourful lore maintains that Madurai rose from the ashes of a woman scorned. The beautiful Kannagi, heroine of Ilango Adigals Sangam epic, Silappadhikaram, burnt Madurai when Kovalan, her husband, was wrongly hanged on false charges of stealing the queens silambu (anklet). Did these stories happen chronologically or contemporarily? Was once upon a time before or after? What came first, the myth or the faith? In Madurai, home to Meenakshi, the city of many legends, it really does not matter. Its enough to stand in the shadow of the 150-ft-tall gopuram of the Meenakshi Temple and lose all sense of time. There, in the coloured figures of a thousand gods, youll find concept, structure, measure and aesthetic as well as the most illogical urge to abandon reason. Imagine stonework not muted by age, nor defiled by grease and litter. Imagine ideals as lofty as towering granite. There you have it. Standing in a queue can be a productive exercise! Things To See And Do You can see Madurai in two days or more, depending how much and how far you want to experience Tamil Nadus second largest city. Madurais temple architecture exhibits a seamless synergy of the distinctive aesthetics of its rulers. If the Pandya rulers (till 1334 AD) gave it its majestic towers, the Vijayanagara kings (1377-1560 AD) added decorated monolithic pillars and the Nayaks (1600-1750 AD) large prakarams (circumambulatory paths) and splendid pillared halls. Mysterious Meenakshi It is difficult to grasp the dimensions of this great temple. There are no less than 12 gopurams, and the South Tower is the tallest at 150 ft. The temple complex and its surrounding areas are spread over 60,000 sq m. In order to imagine the temple as a whole, stop by the exquisite model placed in the Thousand-pillar-hall. It will help you gain a perspective of where you are and why Meenakshi is so multi-faceted. Madurai is also revered as one of the five Cosmic Dance Halls of Shiva. It is believed that Shiva performed the Dance of Bliss at the Velli Sabha (Hall of Silver). The Thousand-pillared hall (the actual number of pillars is 985) is also the ingenuous venue of a museum. The paintings, photographs and icons are a must-see. The temple itself is an extended art gallery of sorts, with over 30 million pieces of sculpture and stucco images. Entry Free Timings 5 am-noon, 4-9.30 pm Still camera Rs 25 Video Not allowed The Sundareswarar shrine precedes Meenakshis in antiquity. It is here that Lord Indra found a lingam by the banks of a lake, in a forest of kadamba trees. Today, the lake is venerated as the Potraamarai Kulam (the Golden Lotus Tank). Though it has more weeds than water now, it is still a lovely sight, lined by a colonnade of granite pillars. Lofty gopurams and huge edifices enclose a nearby

rectangular space. Within it are several cloisters, mandapams (halls) and idols, and in the centre, surrounded by other walls with gateways and towers, are the shrines of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar. The Mukkuruni Vinayakar shrine, with a colossal deity of Ganesha, is particularly splendid. Sangam litterateur Ilango Adigals Thiruvilayaadal Puraanam (Divine Games) is painted on the temple walls note the beautiful restoration near the Meenakshi shrine. The original Meenakshi Temple was razed to the ground in 1311 by Malik Kafur, a general of Delhis Khilji Sultanate. The sanctum sanctorum, however, survived and in 1510, Vishwanatha Nayak (1529-1564) reconstructed the temple at the same spot. Later Thirumalai Nayak (1623-59) began the construction of a massive Rayagopuram (the king tower) and 64 mandapams, many of which were never completed. Give yourself two hours to appreciate this temple and its surrounding structures Close to the Meenakshi Temple is the Koodalazhagar Temple, one of the 108 celestial abodes of Vishnu revered by the Alwars. This is a Vaishnavite shrine, richly endowed with gold and silver artefacts. Look for the shields on the main deities, the vessels in which tulsi water is served, and the jataari (sacred crown used for blessing devotees). Remains of the Day Spend time at the Tirumalai Nayak Palace, just 1.5 km from the Meenakshi Temple. It is presently under renovation. Built in 1636, large parts of the palace complex were dismantled by Tirumalais grandson while shifting his capital to Trichy. A fine synthesis of IndoIslamic architecture, the superb rectangular courtyard endures the rubble of repairs with rare dignity. It is the backdrop for a passable Sound & Light Show. Fee Rs 10 for moulded chairs, Rs 5 for folding steel chairs Timings English narration 6.45 pm The Gandhi Museum, located in the old palace of Rani Mangammal, gives a droll account of the Independence struggle. On view here is also the bloodstained shawl that Gandhi wore when he was shot dead. Entry Free Timings 9 am-1 pm, 2-5.45 pm Still camera Rs 5 Video Rs 50 (only by permission) About 5 km away from the Meenakshi Temple is the Vandiyur Mariamman Teppakulam, an artificial reservoir now reduced to a pond, built by Tirumalai Nayak in the 17th century. Water is brought from outside and filled in time for Teppotsavam, the splendid float festival (midJan to mid-Feb) held in honour of Meenakshi. Its a good place to catch some late-evening breeze. A small inaccessible temple, in the middle of the reservoir, is dedicated to Mariamman (the Deity of Smallpox). The reservoir is the largest construction of its kind in South India. Music in the veins When saint-composer Muthuswami Dikshitar knew his end was near, he asked his disciples to sing Meenakshi memudam dehi (Meenakshi, liberate me), his gem composition in the Raga Gamakakriya. This was in 1834.

Madurais links to Carnatic music remain strong even now. If Madurai Mani Iyer and Madurai Somu were revered vocalists, the M in national nightingale Bharat Ratna M.S. (Madurai Shanmugavadivu) Subbalakshmi comes from the city of Meenakshi too. An evening of music in Madurai is highly recommended. For more information on concerts, approach the travel desk of your hotel, or check your morning paper.

AROUND MADURAI
Private taxi services are reliable (Rs 4.50-Rs 6 per km, for AC or non-AC cars). The Madurai Bus Stand (less than 2 km from the Meenakshi Temple) has frequent services to popular temple destinations. Tirupparamkunram (8 km) One of the six most important shrines of Lord Muruga, this temple on the outskirts of Madurai recieves the faithful round the year. Here he is married to Devasena, daughter of Indra. The temple is at the foot of a sheer rock face. The beautiful panels depicting Shivas Dance of Bliss, accompanied by a celestial orchestra and an admiring audience, date back to the Pandya period. This is one of the most sacred temples of Tamil Nadu. Alanganallur (15 km) During Pongal, the fabled and ferocious jallikattu bullfights are held here. With a prize tied to its horn, intoxicated and enraged bulls are set upon unarmed competitors, one at a time. Victors take home cash, gold or white goods; they used to win brides. Movies have immortalised the bloody sport even as animal rights activists holler in protest. The game can get violent. Transport from hotels is arranged by the tourism department just check with the travel desk. Anaimalai (20 km) The small 10th century temple of Narasingam, at the foot of the giant Anamalai (literally, the Elephant Rock) is worth visiting for its rich iconography, particularly along the mandapam near the entrance. Leave early in the morning since the less frequented temples close by 11 am only to reopen after 4 pm Thiruvathavoor (35 km) About an hours drive from Madurai is Thiruvathavoor, the birthplace of Mannikavachakar, one of the four great saint-devotees of Lord Shiva. The temple here is rich with sculpted pillars. It has a lovely gopuram too. Azhagar Kovil (20 km) Azhagar Kovil is famous as the divya desham where 128 verses were sung by the Alwars in praise of the lord of this temple. The deity is particularly important to the Kallar tribe of the region. Two forts surround the massive temple complex, the outer Azhagapuri and the inner Hiranyapuri. Its Anna Vahana Mandapam has beautiful sculptures depicting mythical scenes. This temple can get crowded with busloads of tourists, many getting their heads tonsured near the dhwaja sthambam (flagstaff). Be prepared to be heckled for alms and pay hefty premiums on everything from soft drinks to nongu (palm fruit).

Where To Stay Taj Garden Retreat (Tel: 0452-2371601; Tariff: Rs 2,500-4,000) on TPK Road, has a spectacular view of Madurai and the Meenakshi Temple. The Fortune Pandiyan Hotel (Tel: 2537090; Tariff: Rs 2,200-4,000, inclusive of buffet breakfast), near the Race Course, is the favourite of J. Jayalalithaa and DMK chief, Karunanidhi. Best Western Germanos (Tel: 2382001; Tariff: 1,800-3,750) is considered reliable though it is a little distance away from the city centre. The centrally located Hotel Supreme (Tel: 2343152; Tariff: Rs 4802,000) on West Perumal Maistry Street is near the railway station and the Meenakshi Temple. WPM Street possibly has the largest concentration of hotels anywhere in India. For medium range boarding, Hotel Grand Central (Tel: 2343940; Tariff: Rs 280-650), also on WPM Street, is a good choice.

Where To Eat
Murugan Idli Kadai at the Melamaasi Veedhi serves the best idlis in town accompanied by ultra-spicy chutney. Avoid their rooftop, the service is abysmal. College House Annai Meenakshi has the friendliest, quickest service, with solicitous waiters persuading you to have another piping hot vadai even though you did not really need it. Arya Bhavan on Melamaasi Veedhi is also very popular. It has two eateries which operate By Day and By Night. Modern Restaurant on Old Didigul Road, is the oldest restaurant in Madurai service is geriatric too. There are some Gujarati Bhojanalayas too. The one near the west gopuram of the Meenakshi Temple is recommended. Dont miss the many Pazhamudir Cholai fruit juice shops that serve delicious fresh juices and thick shakes at Rs 15 a beer mug. Some of their more exotic variations include basil and red banana. At night, from the rooftop restaurant at the Supreme Hotel (WPM Street) one can watch gopurams glow from the distance. They also have a bar and serve a decent a la carte. Mahal Hotel is famous for its non-veg biryanis. Shopping Madurai is famous for its bright tie-and-dyed cotton Sungudi saris. The collections at the locally popular Ranee Sarees and Alankar Textiles (both at South Masi Street) are definitely inadequate when compared to the range at the Rangachari Cloth Store in Chennai (see Chennai Shopping on page 378). Co-optex (West Chithirai Street) and Khadi Emporium (Town Hall Road) have dusty shelves that occasionally throw up a surprise. For handicrafts it is the middling Poompuhar Sales Emporium (East Avani Moola Street). At the temple curio shops, look for golu dolls idols of gods and goddesses. The workmanship of an artist identified as SG (look for initials behind the idol) is noteworthy. If you are feeling a tad adventurous, dont miss the Madurai flower market, bustling between 4 and 11 am. Be warned that youll have to brave the slush, trucks and chaos. Look out for huge mounds of the famous Madurai malli (jasmine).

Rameswaram
State Tamil Nadu Important temples Ramanathaswamy Temple, Gandhamadhana Parvatham, Lakshmana Tirtham, Kodandaramar Temple Location Rameswaram is a conch-shell shaped island. A narrow sea separates it from mainland India, over which loom two grand bridges, for rail and road traffic respectively Distances 556 km SW of Chennai, 248 km SE of Trichy, 174 km SE of Madurai Route from Madurai NH49 to Rameswaram via Ramanathapuram Route from Trichy NH210 to Ramanathapuram via Karaikkudi; NH49 to Rameswaram via Mandapam FAST FACTS When to go Any time of the year. Nov and Dec are the coolest months but that is also when it rains in Tamil Nadu Tourist offices Govt of Tamil Nadu Tourist Office Bus Stand Complex Rameswaram-623526 Tel: 04573-221371 Rameswaram Rly Station Counter Tel: 221373 STD code 04573

km away from the temple, which is the preferred accommodation of film units shooting in the area. There are several simple, budget options like Hotel Venkatesh (Tel: 221296; Tariff: Rs 200-1,265), Hotel Maharaja (Tel: 221271; Tariff: Rs 294-825) and Hotel Chola (Tel: 221307; Tariff: Rs 195-650), all of which are within a stones throw from the temple. The Sringeri Mutt (Tel: 221129; Tariff: Rs 200 upwards by way of donation) has a choultry within 100 ft of the temple. They offer decent, basic rooms, some of which are large and can accommodate up to four beds. Advance booking is advised.

WHERE TO EAT
Hotel Aishwarya on the main Sannadhi Street (to the right from the temple entrance) serves idli-dosa basics though the puris and vadais tend to be cold. They have a well-stocked freezer of readymade fruit juice and milkshake options. Hotel Abhirami, a couple of buildings away on the same road, serves unlimited basic meals for Rs 15 but is unhygienic and avoidable. Hotel Tamil Nadu has a veg and non-veg l cart menu of which the staple tiffin items such as idli-dosa are quite good. Service is friendly and fast though crows (there are warning signs) swoop in and out of the restaurant. There is a popular mess near the Sringeri Mutt premises run by a Brahmin family affiliated to the institution they take orders for full meals (a 3-hr notice is required) and serve piping hot tiffin items on banana leaves (seating on benches). We heard this from several people but could not experience their hospitality ourselves since the family was away attending a wedding. We went instead to a nameless place that only had a slate board (of the kind we used to know as children) hung near the door announcing the menu. Ask and someone will show the way for its only about four houses away on the same side as the Chola Hotel and Lodge on North Mada Street. This is the humble home of another Brahmin family guests sit on the floor of their living room, watch TV if they so wish as the yummiest home-style dosais, uthappams and bajjis (fritters) are served. Orders for full three-course rice meals can also be placed at Narasus Coffee outlet (good filter coffee!) on the main Sannadhi Street. In these three places, food is served without onion and garlic. Gujarat Bhavan serves a thali between noon and 2 pm and 7-9 pm but the food was so spicy that we came close to making a dash for the sea, but besan laddoos (Rs 10 apiece) were nice.

GETTING THERE
Rail Rameswaram is well connected by rail. Sethu Express and Rameswaram Express are convenient trains from Chennai (dep and arrival at Tambaram Junction in Chennai). But connections terminate at Mana Madurai Station, approx 90 km/ 3.5 hrs before Rameswaram, due to ongoing broad guage conversion work. From here, the journey has to be completed by bus, taxi or a meter gauge train Road Buses ply from Madurai (every 5-10 mins except from midnight to 4 am when the frequency diminishes). Parveen Travels (Chennai: 044-26444621; Madurai: 0452-2336820) offers non-AC deluxe services from Chennai (Rs 400) and AC services from Madurai

WHERE TO STAY
As is true of many small pilgrim towns, Rameswaram does not spoil you for choice in accommodation. What is available is basic and, if you dont expect too much, quite acceptable. Hotel Tamil Nadu (Tel: 04573-221277; Tariff: Rs 300-900) offers AC and non-AC rooms with fresh linen and clean loos. The rooms (with balconies) overlook the sea and, even if you opt for the AC room, you are likely to switch the contraption off and keep the door open to welcome the refreshing breeze instead. It is a little away from the centre of town, little being the operative word; you can get to the temple in a 7-min stroll. Hotel Royal Park (Tel: 221680; Tariff: Rs 799-1,299) is Rameswarams poshest hotel, a new facility about 3.5

THINGS TO SEE AND DO

You can be in and out of Rameswaram in one day. Indeed, many pilgrims do this. But even those who choose to stay two full days (and you must), to see the divine Dhanushkodi and schedule a trip to the important temples in the neighbouring Ramnad District, will leave reluctantly. Agnitirtham Quite clean and very peaceful, a dip in the shallow, salty water here is pure joy. Lord Rama himself is said to have bathed here. Many visitors like to wade somewhat into the sea but it is always advisable to exercise caution.

The Ramanathaswamy Temple looms 200m away. It is a straight walk, which many devotees make while still in their wet clothes. Helpers will offer their services so that devotees can have a bath in the 22 tirthams, unique experience that must not be missed. A per head charge of Rs 25 will be the average price though larger groups can negotiate a better collective sum (this is apart from the Rs 17 per person charged by the temple authorities).

Besides these, there are 31 ancient holy tirthams outside the temple, from Navabhashanam in Ramnad District to Dhanushkodi, where land ends. Originally, devotees would bathe in all of them in order to complete their pilgrimage. But many of them are not properly maintained anymore and some have become inaccessible. Gandhamadhana Parvatham This is a simple two-storey temple about 2.5 km northwest of the Ramanathaswamy Temple. There is a marble image of Ramas footprints here. It is said that Hanuman made the first leap to Lanka from here. The view from the upper storey is superb windmills, sandbanks, backwaters, coconut trees and the infinite ocean. Location 2.5 km north-east of Ramanathaswamy Temple Timings 7 am-1 pm, 3-6 pm Kothandaramaswamy Temple En route to Dhanushkodi, this temple dedicated to Rama, Sita, Lakshmana and Hanuman was the only structure left standing in the area after the 1964 cyclone. Vibhishana is said to have surrendered to Lord Rama here. Location 6 km south of Ramanathaswamy Temple Timings 6 am-1 pm, 3-6 pm And some more Other local must-sees include Rama Tirtham (a small shrine and a pretty tank), Lakshmana Tirtham (another small temple and a tank that is prettier still it is possible to feed fish in both), Jatayu Tirtham (where the King of Birds lost his life trying to save Sita from Ravana), and a temple to Hanuman, which has a display of the famous floating rocks used in the construction of the bridge to Lanka. Hire an auto for Rs 150 and you can cover all the sights in half a day (pick-ups are available at a time and place of your choice). They do not rush or hustle you and there is ample time to imbibe what you see. All the above shrines have the same timings (6 am-1 pm, 3-6 pm)

Ramanathaswamy Temple
In keeping with the dimensions of this grand temple, the Nandi (approx 16 ft in height and 10 ft wide) here is magnificently huge, marred somewhat by the grilled enclosure within which it now appears trapped. The sanctum is embellished by beautifully carved granite pillars and guarded by handsome dwarapalakas. The lingam that Sita made is worshipped in the main altar. To the right is the Viswa-lingam brought by Hanuman, which is worshipped first every day. Goddess Parvatavardhini is the consort to Ramanathaswamy and her shrine is to the left. One of the most important ancillary shrines is dedicated to Lord Vishnu as Sethu Madhava. The sannidhi to Nataraja is surrounded by offerings of Naga images and is splendidly decorated entirely with rudraksha seeds. This most sacred pilgrimage is considered complete if Ganga jal from Kashi is brought to Rameswaram for an abhishekam of the lingam. Circumambulating the third prakaram, perfectly proportioned and magnificent in its unparalleled length, is a grand experience. Timings 4 am-1 pm, 3.30-9 pm Temple Tel 04573221223 Related info Special darshan tickets can be bought for Rs 50. Theres a sphatika lingam puja at 5 am, entry fee Rs 10; special pujas at 10.30 am, 12.30 pm, 6 pm, 8 pm and 8.30 pm. Ganga jal abhishekam fee is Rs 10; Ganga jal is available for Rs 51 per litre for abhishekham. Goddess Parvatavardhini is taken around the third corridor in a golden palanquin every Friday evening 77.30 pm. The main events on the festival calendar are the Shivaratri celebrations in the Tamil month of Maasi (Feb-Mar) and the Thirukalyanam (enactment of the wedding ceremony) of Sri Ramanathaswamy and Parvathavardhini Ambal in the Tamil month of Adi (JulAug). The temple remains open but the main sanctum is closed during Ravana Vadham Thiruvizha (celebration of Ravanas end), when the utsavar deity is taken in a procession to the Kodhandaramar Temple, in May-Jun The 22 temple tirthams A bath in the 22 holy tirthams at the Ramanathaswamy Temple is an enjoyable ritual. Guide-helpers will lead you in chronological order to waters that are variable small and large, warm and cool, sweet and salty. Soon enough, you lose track of the details and surrender to the undiluted joy of having buckets of water splashed down in a manner that has kids and adults squealing alike. Bliss. Only Hindus are allowed beyond the third prakaram. Coloured lungis are not allowed but trousers are. Carry dry clothes to change into; entry to the main sanctum in wet clothes is denied. Changing rooms (not very clean) are available near the last tirtham

WHILE IN RAMESWARAM
Your sightseeing tour will include a look (from the outside) at the home of President APJ Abdul Kalam, where you might have a chance to chat with his brother at their doorstep. Though no boating options are available, Hotel Tamil Nadu here can arrange for a short excursion in a fishing boat. Spare time for a 2.2-km windwhipped walk down the pedestrian walkway on the busy Indira Gandhi Road Bridge that connects Rameswaram to the mainland. A glass-bottomed boat service (8 am-6 pm; Rs 50 per head; operable subject to wind conditions) is available near the Mandapam end of the Indira Gandhi Bridge. There is a morning service from Mandapam to the Kurusudai Islands, a marine biosphere (for permission to visit, call Wildlife Warden on 04573-230074).

AROUND RAMESWARAM

Dhanushkodi (18 km SE)

It is true that not too many people make it to this

punyatirtham holy waters where the oceans meet. Lord Rama is said to have bathed here to atone for the sin of killing Ravana, the great-grandson of Brahma. An auto from the centre of town will charge Rs 150 to the security checkpoint. Thereafter, one has to board 4WD trucks (Rs 50 per head, if the requisite number of passengers is available, or Rs 600 for the whole vehicle). A jolting ride through desolate sands will help you reach Lands End in about 20 mins. What you see will hypnotise you. On the one hand is a magnificently fierce Arabian Sea and, on the other, is the deep, mesmerising blue of the unbelievably gentle Bay of Bengal. It is difficult to believe that such a landscape exists on earth. Dredging has already commenced off Dhanushkodi for the massive, upcoming Sethusamudram Canal Link Project. Will it be the same later? Dont wait to find out. Go now Another prominent feature of Dhanushkodi that draws many tourists to this place is the mysterious Adams Bridge, otherwise known as the Ram Sethu. This is a bridge made entirely of limestone that barely connects the Indian mainland with the Sri Lankan mainland. This bridge has high religious significance as followers of the Hindu faith believe that the bridge was built by Lord Rama in his quest to reach the land of Lanka, where Ravana is said to have reigned. Dhanushkodi in those days had a railway station, a small railway hospital, a higher secondary school, a post office, customs and port offices etc. It was here in this island in January 1897, Swami Vivekananda after his triumphant visit to the west to attend parliament of religions held in USA in September 1893, set his foot on Indian soil from Columbo. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dhanushkodi) "On that fateful night (December 22nd) at 23.55 hours while entering Dhanushkodi railway station, the train No.653, Pamban-Dhanushkodi Passenger, a daily regular service which left Pamban with 110 passengers and 5 railway staff, was only few yards before Dhanushkodi Railway station when it was hit by a massive tidal wave. The whole train was washed away killing all 115 on the spot. All together over 1800 people died in the cyclonic storm. All dwelling houses and other structures in Dhanushkodi were marooned in the storm . The high tidal waves moved almost 10 kilometres onto this island and ruined the entire town. Pamban bridge was washed away by the high tidal waves in this disaster. Eyewitness accounts recollected of how the surging waters stopped just short of the main temple at Rameshwaram where hundreds of people had taken refuge from the fury of the storm. Following this disaster, the Government of Madras declared the town as Ghost town and unfit for living after the storm.Only few fisherfolks now live there." (http://wikimapia.org/13519904/Dhanushkodi-Town-OldGhost-Town) I visited Dhanushkodi on 25th February, 2010. I took a jeep from Rameswaram (cost INR 1000.00). The first few kilometers were along the NH 49 (the road was being widened). but the last 8 or 9 kilometers were along

sands of the beach only. There was cell phone coverage (only through Aircel service). The journey was unforgettable, with sea converging along both sides. There were no permanent human settlement, but few temporary huts with merchandise like bottled water, potato chips, shells & corals were there. We saw large number of sea birds, & surprisingly few horses! The land's end was extremely beautuiful unlike Kanyakumarika which was crowded. (http://www.oktatabyebye.com/destination-features/178dhanushkodi-travel-guide-tamil-nadu.html) http://www.hindu.com/mp/2004/03/06/stories/200403060 0010100.htm

Temples in Ramanathapuram (75 km W) An hours drive down the broad highway, in Ramanathapuram (also known as Ramnad) District, are three famous temples that can be covered in one morning. The large, ancient Uthirakosamangai Shiva Temple (open 4.30 am-12.30 pm, 3.45-8.30 pm) has a presiding deity carved in emerald. At Thirupullani (same timings) is an old Vishnu temple where the presiding deity is Adi Jagannatha Perumal. Ramnad District is a drought-prone part of Tamil Nadu but the temple tank here is large, clean and generously endowed with water. Not too far away stands a statue of Hanuman under a simple roof, with the deity looking out at the ocean at Sethukarai (open all day) the untouched, tree-lined shore here is beautiful. At Devipattinam (also known as Navabhashanam) are Navagrahas installed and worshipped by Rama, set upon the sea. Open to the sky, pilgrims may visit anytime. The images are highly eroded and, at high tide, pilgrims wade through waist-deep seawater in order to circumambulate the deities. This would have been a perfectly memorable experience were it not for the heckling officiators (who look suspiciously fraudulent) and the turbid, littered water. There is a Vishnu Temple nearby (open 4.30 am-12.30 pm, 3.45-8.30 pm). If you are returning to Chennai by an afternoon train, taxi operators offer to get your ticket endorsed so that you can board at the Ramanathapuram Station an hour after the scheduled departure from Rameswaram. This saves you the time taken on the return journey and enables you to visit these temples on the morning of your departure, after checking out. Many pilgrims opt for this plan and we found it went as promised