Betta Fish Secrets By Mike Worthington

Chapter 1: The History, Background and Biology of Your Betta Fish

Betta fish are easily recognized by their brilliant coloring and long flowing fins. They run the gamut of the rainbow - everything from blue to red to white, and the female especially will usually have horizontal stripes. As in many species in nature, the female Betta fish is not as brilliantly colored, and her fins will be shorter than her male counterpart. To find out more about Betta coloring, read the chapter on "Breeding and Spawning Your Betta Fish."

Betta fish are prized as much for their unique personalities and their warmth towards their owners as for their beautiful colors and flowing tales. Experienced Betta owners insist that each Betta has its own personality traits, habits and methods of communicating their feelings, needs and wants.

Betta fish also make excellent "first fish" for children because of their high degree of interactivity, their personalities and the fact that they children can master the steps required in their care and feeding and need only a little help with the tank cleaning and water changing processes.

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Classification and Basic Overview

Category: Fish -> Freshwater Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Actinopterygii Order: Perciformes Betta Family: Belontiidae Genus: Betta Species: splendens Scientific Name: Betta Splendens Common Name: Siamese Fighting FishOrigin: Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam and parts of China Natural Habitat: Bettas originated in Thailand - (formerly called Siam, which is how they got their common name)

Basic Information: Lifespan: 2-3 years

Adult Size: 3 inches (7 cm) Socialization: Males cannot be kept together as they can be aggressive. Bettas react poorly to stress, and if kept in stressful conditions for a period of time, will become nervous and get physically sick.

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Minimum Tank Size: 3 gallon (Although it's become "chic" for Betta fish to be sold or kept in flower vases, this is actually cruel to the fish, since it's very difficult to maintain the water temperature needed and doesn't give them enough room to swim around.) Tank Level: Top dweller Water Type: Fresh water Optimum pH Level: 6.8 - 7.4 Water Hardness: up to 20 dGH Water Temperature: 75-86 F (24-30 C) Bettas originated in tropical countries and therefore their water temperature needs to be consistently maintained. Diet: Live food is preferable, freeze-dried foods have the fewest parasites and is much better for their health they will eat flakes and frozen foods if there is no alternative. Care: Easy to Intermediate Breeding: Egg layer - bubble nest

History and Background

Historically speaking, Betta Fish are said to have gotten their name from an ancient clan of Asian warriors called the "Bettah." They were given these warriors' names because about 150 years ago people enjoyed participating in a popular sport that involved the fighting of two of these warrior fish. (In fact, the sport was so popular that it was regulated - and taxed - by the King of Siam!)

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One interesting note about Betta fish fighting is that, unlike cock or dog fighting in the west, at Siamese fighting fish tournaments, the actual fight was more to test the bravery of the fish, rather than a fight to see how much damage would be inflicted, or a death match.

Spectators bet on how long a particular fish would fight, and which one would give up first. (In fact, most fish would only fight once or twice, and then live out the remainder of their lives being pampered and used for breeding.)

Natural Habitat
A Betta fish's natural habitat is in shallow, tropical water. This is because they need to be able to surface frequently, in order to breathe air. They can be found in nature in rice paddies, drainage ditches, slow moving streams and fresh water ponds. Betta fish have even been known thrive in large puddles! Their natural food source is insects and mosquito larvae.

How Breeding Began

According to historical accounts, a close friend of the King of Siam, Dr. Theodore Cantor received a pair of breeding Bettas from the king in 1840. The doctor bred them and studied them for several years, and then wrote a scientific paper about them, giving them a Latin name of "Macropodus Pugnax." However, shortly after his paper was Page | 5

published, Dr. Cantor discovered that a species by that name already existed, and so the fish were renamed "Betta Splendens." Several breeding pairs of Bettas where sent to Germany in 1896 and then in 1910, Mr. Frank Locke of San Francisco California imported several Bettas to the U.S.A.

One of the fish that he received had unusual red fins - and he excitedly thought he had discovered a new species, and named it "Betta Cambodia." In reality, he had one of the first of the Betta splendens that had naturally developed new colors and characteristics through breeding.

Since that time, breeders have been able to develop Bettas with all of the vibrant coloring and varied fin shapes that we find today. Betta breeding has become a profitable and ongoing passion for many people today, many of whom started with just one or two Bettas in a small aquarium.

The Anatomy of Your Betta Fish

Two of the physical features of a Betta that make them so sought after are the fins and the mouth. But something else that makes them so interesting as pets is that fact that they breathe air - and will continually swim to the top of the their tanks and "take a look around."

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How to Tell the Difference Between Male and Female Betta Fish:
In addition to being brighter colored and having longer fins, the easiest way to tell males from females is to put the new Betta fish in a flat sided container and put it next to the tank of another male. If it flares up at the site of the other male Betta, then congratulations, it's a boy. If, on the other hand, it suddenly shows vertical stripes, then the Betta fish is a girl. (Female Betta fish - when they're older than 4 months - will have a bumpy white spot on their underbellies. It's the "ovipositor" (egg spot) where she'll release her eggs from when she's breeding.

The Labyrinth
Betta Fish are called anabantids because they breathe surface air, much the same way we do, through special organs called "labyrinth organs." This is a small chamber that takes in air, much the way our lungs do. Because of this, you won't need to use aeration, but you'll have to make sure that the tank isn't overfilled, so that your Betta can swim to the top and gulp in the air he needs. By the way, your Betta's labyrinth only functions when it's moist, so it's very important that he doesn't jump out of the tank, and that he can easily get to the surface.

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The Fins and the Tails

The long, flowing fins of the Betta fish are what make it so beautiful and sought after by aquarium owners today, and it is by the shape of their tails that the different breeds are named. Thanks to current breeding methods, there are several different breeds of Betta Fish available today. Here's a short list: Crown Tail: The "rays" or spines of the tail extend beyond the webbing. This gives the tail a kind of coronet shape and appearance. The most common Crown Tails have a single ray, although breeders have now bred Double-Ray Crown Tails, and "Double-Double Ray" and finally "Double Double Double Ray" Crown Tails. Because of their scarcity and rareness, these Bettas are very costly. If you're just starting out, you'll probably want to start with a more common variety. Double Tail: This is another genetically bred Betta that is rare and can only be purchased from a breeder. The tail is split into two halves, making it appear to have two tails. Half Moon: The tail is so wide that it forms a kind of half-moon shape. Very graceful and beautiful to look at, these Bettas are often the most sought-after. Delta Tail: The tail forms a triangle because the outside rays of the tail are the same length as the middle ones. If you're planning to "show" your Betta, find one with the largest Delta. Round Tail: The tail actually appears round on this breed. The shape comes from the middle rays being the longest, with progressively shorter rays growing out on from the middle. Page | 8

Veil Tail: This is the most common variety of Bettas sold in pet stores. The bottom fin rays are longer than the top rays. When flared, they have a diamond rectangular shape. These fish are seldom used by show professionals or breeders, who consider them too common. SAFETY TIP:
Your Betta loves

to jump - and will jump out of the tank if he gets the chance! You need to take precautions to assure that this doesn't happen, because not only does he risk injuring himself, if he's out for too long, your

The Mouth
Some Betta owners say one of the reasons they were first attracted to the fish because they appeared so "happy." The shape of the Bettas mouths have also been compared to that of bulldogs, both because of the pugilistic look and upturned corners. Something interesting to note is that the Betta's bite actually has the comparable power to that of a shark, although because of its size, it won't hurt you, even if it were to give you an affectionate little "nip" to say hello.

Betta fish take in oxygen through their mouths, so when they swim to the top of the tank to catch a breath of air, they may look like they're Page | 9

talking or singing. There have even been Betta owners who insist that their fish sing along with certain songs when played on the radio.

But for all its power, the Betta fish's mouth is also made to be incredibly gentle. When spawning, the male Betta will swim to the bottom of the tank, gently scoop up the eggs in its mouth and carry them safely to the bubble nest.

To find out more about the bubble nest and how the breeding and spawning processes work, read the chapter on "Breeding Your Betta Fish".

Because they're so easy to take care of, Betta fish are great "first pets" for children, who can learn quickly how to feed and care for them, and need only a little help from you with water changes.

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Chapter 2: Preparing Your Betta Fish's New Home

You should have your Betta fish's new home all set up before you go to the pet store, or order him from a reputable breeder. Taking the time to plan and prepare the perfect environment will help to ensure that your Betta fish thrives.

Because Betta fish don't react well to stress, there are several factors to consider when deciding where to set up your Betta's new home. Of course you're going to want to place the tank somewhere where you'll be able to see it and enjoy it, but there are also some other practical considerations to take into account. For example:

The Ideal Tank Size:

Actually, there is some controversy about the best tank size for Betta fish. Because in their natural environment they live in small shallow water, some people believe that Bettas can - and even should - be kept in any small container - such as a goldfish bowl or large glass vase.

Others believe this is cruel to the fish, and believe that on a psychological and emotional level Bettas experience less stress, and are happier when they've got room to swim around.

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One important factor that people forget is that, when they're in their natural environment, although they may live in a small, shallow pool of water, it is part of an entire eco-system that is constantly being fed with fresh water, which helps to clean and maintain it while removing harmful bacterium. You won't have that in a small fishbowl or aquarium. And the smaller the tank size, the more difficult it is to maintain the constant water temperature your fish needs.

No matter what tank size you choose, make sure that you've got some places for your Betta to hide, and especially if you're putting him into a tank with other fish, that he can choose for his own private territory. And remember, if you run into water quality issues, or one of your fish has a disease, it's going to spread like wildfire in an overcrowded tank!

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[This is an example of an overcrowded fish bowl - and is a bad idea. Not only will it stress the fish, which could kill them, but putting too many fish in too small of a tank will cause fighting and injuries.

I'm squarely in the middle of the tank size controversy and believe that the minimum tank size for a Betta should be at least 3 gallons (11.36 liters), and up to 10 gallons (37.86 liters), especially if you're going to keep other fish, or have more than one Betta in the tank. (Get anything bigger than 10 gallons (37.86) liters and you'll run into issues with cleaning the tank and maintaining the proper water temperature).

The Ideal Site for Your Fish Tank:

When deciding where to set up your tank, remember this: Water is heavy - one gallon of water is equal to about 8 pounds (3.63 kilograms), so you're not going to want to be lugging it around. Make sure that whatever surface you place the tank on is strong enough to support it, and large enough that the tank isn't going to be close to any edges, and can't be easily knocked off or bumped by passers-by. Never place your tank where it will be in direct sunlight, or heating or air conditioning units, or near a draft. (Not only can Page | 13

the sun raise the temperature of the tank too high, it also spurs the growth of certain algae which are bad for your fish. Likewise, water that's too cold, or constantly fluctuates can be deadly for Betta fish.) Choose a site that has a natural day/night cycle. (In other words, don't choose a location that has light or dark all the time so that your Betta doesn't get agitated or depressed.) In order to keep the water temperature constant, you'll need to invest in a heating system. Which means you'll need an electrical outlet near the tank. Make sure that the tank isn't near stereo or video equipment, especially if you like loud music. The constant vibrations will, over time, stress out and agitate your Betta fish, and chances are, he'll react by getting sick, or becoming listless and inactive.

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The Best Aquarium for your Betta Fish:

When it comes to aquariums, tanks and bowls, you'll have an amazing variety to choose from, based on your budget, your likes and your needs. You'll also have your choice between glass and acrylic. (Remember though that acrylic tanks often need additional support or treatments at the edges to prevent leaking).

Something else to remember for your Betta fish - since he needs to breathe frequently, make sure that the tank is wider than it is deep - you don't want him to have to struggle to get to the surface. In fact, an idea depth is about 10 inches (25.40 centimeters) from the bottom of the tank to the surface.

How to Prepare the Tank:

Don't skip this vital step or your Betta fish could get sick and even die. No matter whether you're using a brand new tank or a used one, you need to make sure that Page | 15

it's prepared correctly for your Betta. Luckily, if you follow these steps, you can make sure that your Betta lives a long and happy life.

New Aquarium:
The waste that your Betta excretes turns into ammonia, and other waste and debris turn into nitrites that, unless treated or turned into less harmful compounds, can poison it. This phenomenon sadly happens to fish when they are put into a brand new tank that hasn't been properly prepared. It's called "New Tank Syndrome" and it happens because new aquariums don't have the natural and beneficial bacteria that consume those compounds. In fact, the whole biological process of creating the good bacteria can't start until you introduce your fish into the tank.

If you've bought a new aquarium, the easiest and quickest way to protect your Betta fish is to "seed" it by adding some aquarium gravel from an established tank. But if you don't have any used aquarium gravel, take heart because here are the steps you need to take to protect your Betta and help him to stay healthy and happy:

1. When you buy your aquarium, also buy a testing kit to measure nitrates and ammonia. For the first little while, you're going to need to test daily - you want to monitor the levels of ammonia and nitrate in your tank - if they start going up or keep going up, it means you don't have enough good bacteria in the tank. You'll want the ammonia and nitrate levels to be close to zero. Page | 16

And the pH levels should be from 6.8 to 7.0 - slightly acidic to neutral, which will mimic their natural environment. 2. Before filling the tank with water, wipe out any dust. (You can buy aquarium disinfectant or make your own - see the recipe in the section on cleaning a used tank.) Use paper towels rather than cloths, so that you don't add any chemical residue, such as fabric softener on the glass. 3. Replace about 20 to 25% of the water in the tank three times a week during the "break in" process. Here's the easiest way to do this. Let's assume you have a five gallon tank. (Make the appropriate adjustments depending on the size of your tank.) Fill it with four gallons and then take a magic marker, and in an inconspicuous place, mark where the water line is. Then as you're changing the water, simply draw out enough to reach that line, and replace that much. By the way, don't take your fish out of the tank when you're changing the water. It's actually easier on them and causes less stress. 4. When changing the water, add teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon to the new tank water. Aquarium salt helps prevent stress, adds needed minerals and electrolytes your Betta fish needs and also helps to prevent diseases. 5. Buy a package of Java Moss. It also consumes the nitrates and ammonia that your Betta fish excretes, so it will help to keep your tank cleaner. It also has the added benefits of not requiring sunlight and it doesn't grow roots. Plus, you'll only need to buy it once. If you need to add some to another tank, simply tear off a hunk from the first tank and there you go. (By Page | 17

the way, make sure when putting Java Moss into a new tank that the fish in the first tank aren't sick - otherwise the bacteria will transfer as well, making the new fish sick.) 6. Don't feed your Betta fish much during while you're going through this process. Betta fish can actually go up to ten days without eating, and the less food they eat, the less waste they produce, plus you reduce the amount of harmful bacteria and parasites that can gain a foothold until there's an adequate amount of nitrifying bacterium to control them. If you still have food floating around after five minutes, then you're feeding your Betta too much!

Safety Tip: Don't add antibiotics to the water during this time. Although it can seem like an easy way of getting rid of any bad bacterium, and speed up the process of protecting your Betta, antibiotics can't determine the difference between good and bad

After about two months of testing, you should discover that the nitrate levels in your tank are remaining consistently low, which means that you've built up enough positive bacteria that you can switch to regular cleaning and water changing methods. (If they're not, then continue the introduction method until they are.)

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By the way, it takes between 6 to 8 weeks for the levels to stabilize after adding fish to your aquarium for the first time - so don't be alarmed if the water is clear some days and cloudy others during that time. The best way to deal with this problem is to do change about 25% of the water once a week until has completed the cycle, and the levels of nitrate and ammonia have leveled off.

Used Aquarium:
If you have a used aquarium, or you buy one, it's important that you make sure you clean it thoroughly to destroy any lingering "bad" bacteria. But in this case, cleaning it doesn't mean using soap (Soap leaves a residue which can actually harm your fish.) Follow these steps and you'll ensure that your Betta is safe: 1. Use a scraper and remove any algae from the sides of the tank. 2. Create your own cleanser by sprinkling baking soda over the walls of your aquarium. Then using a mixture of one part vinegar to four parts water in a spray bottle, spray the walls of your aquarium. Let this mixture sit for several minutes. (It will bubble.) 3. Using a scrubby (or a sponge with the abrasive side), scrub the walls of your aquarium. Rinse at least 3 times, using very hot water. 4. If you still see any residue, wipe it down with a scrubby again, this time using straight lemon juice. (When finished, rinse again a couple of times to make sure that it's completely clean.)

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Aquarium Heaters - Do You Really Need One?

While it can be difficult to maintain the water temperature in a tank, it's absolutely necessary that you have one. There are two reasons for this. First of all, if your Betta gets too stressed out over a period of time, his immune system will become compromised, and he'll begin to lose his ability to fight off infection and disease.

The second reason is that your Betta is used to living in water that is between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit - and he will become listless and unresponsive if the water is too far above or too far below that temperature. This becomes even more important in a large tank.

It's also very important that you maintain a fairly consistent temperature in your Betta fish's tank. Your fish won't handle extreme temperature changes either. By the way, it doesn't take much of a water temperature change - just the matter of a couple of degrees Fahrenheit - for your Betta to be affected - so this is something you really need to pay attention to.

The unit of measurement for aquarium heaters is in watts. When trying to decide on which heater will be best for you, a good basic guideline is 5 watts per gallon of water. Make sure that the heater fits your tank and, if it's an internal one, can be properly inserted.

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If you're not sure and you didn't buy the tank and heater together, take the tank with you to the store, and ask the manager to help you get the right one.

Two Types of Heating Systems:

Safety Tip: Whichever heating unit you choose, don't rely on that unit alone. Buy a backup thermometer, such as the kind that sticks to the outside of the tank, and use it to double check the water temperature.

There are two main types of heating systems - internal and external. You'll have to decide which one works best for you - and if you have any questions, ask your local pet store or your Betta breeder for recommendations based on your tank set up.

One other important thing to keep in mind is the water circulation without proper water circulation, you're going to have "hot spots" and "cold spots" in the water, both of which can be harmful to your Betta

fish. Heaters cost anywhere from about $20 to $50, although like with anything else, you can find more expensive models.

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Internal Tank Heating Systems:

Internal heating systems are the most common. They usually consist of a glass tube anywhere between 4 inches (10.16 cm) to 12 inches (30.48 cm) long. Some offer a built-in thermostat, while others will have an external thermostat, usually outside the tank and are usually used to control multiple heating units.

External Tank Heating Systems:

There are several different models of external heating systems, such as a model which fits under the tank and heats the water from below, or one that connects to the filtering system. They are widely available both online and off.

Decorating Your Aquarium

There are as many choices for decorating your aquarium as there are fish to fill it. Your Betta fish will enjoy having a beautifully decorated home the same as you do - but there are a few things to remember to keep him happy and safe. NEVER use any metallic decorations in your aquarium. Most metals will leech minute amounts of residue into the water and that will, over time, poison your Betta Don't use fabric plants in your aquarium Page | 22

Be careful of any decorations with sharp or serrated edges that could catch or tear your Betta Fish's fins Do not use colored stones, decorative rocks or small stones from your garden or marbles in the tank with your Betta fish. (In addition to harboring bacteria, your fish could injure himself - many Bettas like to toss their gravel, or hide under it.) Do add caves or other decorations your Betta can use to hide himself in. (This is especially important if there will be other fish in the tank. Bettas are extremely territorial, and need to have a space to go to when they need a little "alone time".) Some Bettas like to rest near the top of the tank on a horizontal floating leaf or other decoration that they can swim on and off of when they want to. Pay attention to decorations with small holes or crevices that your Betta could swim into and get stuck - Bettas love exploring tiny hiding places, but sometimes once they're in, they can't get back out! Because Bettas love to jump - especially when they're happy, it's also a good idea to install a mesh web or other covering over the top of your tank. This will protect your Betta from jumping out of his tank and not being able to get back in.

Putting some plants in your fish tank does more than make it look nice. Real plants offer several advantages to plastic ones: they increase the oxygen in the water, and provide a place for your Betta to hide, rest, and even anchor his bubble nest to. Of course, you Page | 23

have to weigh those advantages to the fact that, because they are alive, you'll have to take care of them as well.

Check with your pet store or Betta breeder for the right plants for your Betta fish based on the type and size of your tank, the number of Bettas you'll have and the area you live in.

The Best Water for Your Betta:

First of all, let's dispel a myth about the best water for your Betta fish - it is NOT using bottled water! Many people, in an effort to give their fish the best possible environment will rush out and buy the most expensive bottled waters on the market. But the truth is, not only do most bottled waters not contain the essential minerals your fish needs, they may also contain some harmful chemicals. Likewise, you should never use distilled water or water that has been "purified" in any way - including through a carbon filter. This water won't have the minerals that your Betta needs. The actual best water for your Betta fish is just plain old tap water! (By the way, if you've been using bottled water in the past, don't worry. It won't kill your fish, but unless your local tap water is so bad that you don't drink it either, switch back to tap water ASAP. And if you have to used bottled water, make it spring water, and follow the steps below, to make sure that you remove any harmful chemicals before adding it to your Betta's tank.) Of course, because most of the water we drink is chemically treated, there are a few steps to follow to make the water safe for your Betta

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fish - but don't worry! Follow these simple instructions and it will be a breeze: 1. Find out if your local water supply is treated with a chemical called chloramines. (If so, then you'll have to buy a special treatment for it. It's called AmQuel and is readily available at most pet stores.) 2. Plain tap water right from the tap will kill your fish, because of the chlorine (chloramines), so it has to be treated first. The product to do this that's also best for your Betta fish is called "stress coat" and you'll find it at your local pet store too. 3. Once you've treated the water according to package directions, it needs to "age" which will allow all of the chemicals and gasses to evaporate, and also for the pH in the water to normalize. To do this, just let it sit in an open container for about a week.

Choosing the Best Filtration System for Your Betta

A filtration system is important for two reasons: The first is to encourage and promote the nitrogen cycle of the aquarium. The second is to remove leftover particles of fish food, waste and other particles from the aquarium.

There are two main types of freshwater filtration systems: Box Overflow Systems (these are the kind that hang on the back of the Page | 25

aquarium) and Under Gravel Filters (they use a tube to suck aquarium water through a filter in the bottom of the aquarium).

Box filters are the most common type of filtration system for freshwater aquariums. They consist of a pump, a filter and a carbon insert. They're housed in a plastic box that sits on the back of the aquarium. Water goes through a small tube that's inside the aquarium, is drawn up and through the filter and carbon insert and then flows back down into the aquarium.

Box filters provide chemical, biological and mechanical filtration for your aquarium. The filter also acts as the base for colonizing nitrifying bacteria (the good bacteria you want to have growing in your tank) - this is the biological filtration process. Capturing the debris in the water is the mechanical filtration process. And the carbon filter provides the chemical filtration process by removing organic material (waste) from the aquarium water.

The main advantage for using a box overflow system is that it's easy to set up, change filters and clean.

Undergravel Filters work by using an uplift tube to draw water through a filter plate located in the bottom of the aquarium. These filters use a biological filtration process to keep nitrate and ammonia levels low. The filter plate and substrate provide the base that nitrifying bacteria colonize on. (Substrate is the gravel, crushed coral and sand that you put in the bottom of your tank.) Page | 26

Many experts believe that Undergravel filters do the best job of maintaining a healthy biological environment in freshwater aquariums. Their main drawback is that it's a pain to clean them. You have to clean them every year (because of the buildup of debris) both above and below the filter plate. So you have to completely remove the filter plate from the aquarium to clean it.

Filtration systems are usually rated by the number of gallons of water filtered per hour. When choosing a filtration system for your tank, make sure that it's large enough to do the job. Other than that, it's a matter of choice.

Chapter 3: Buying Your Betta Fish and Bringing Him Home

Now that you've got everything ready, it's time to go out and choose your new Betta fish. Timely Tip: When you're rinsing the filter, DON'T rinse it in tap water! Why? Because you'll be getting rid of the good bacterium that the biological filter process has worked so hard to create in your aquarium.. Since the good bacterium is growing on the sponge, just carefully rinse it in water from the aquarium. (Each time you do a water change, just save some in a covered jar for the

You basically have two choices when it comes to buying a Betta fish either a pet store or a professional Betta fish breeder.

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Making that decision is going to be a personal choice, and will be based on a number of factors. For example: Is this your first Betta fish? Will the Betta be a pet for children? Do you plan on breeding your Betta? Will you enter your Betta fish in shows? Will the Betta be put into a tank with other fish? If the answer to questions one, two and five is yes, then you might want to start by getting your first Betta fish from a pet store.

If on the other hand, your answer to questions three and four is yes, then you'll want to find a professional breeder.

Choosing the right Betta for you is going to be a subjective matter, and will be based on some of the questions above plus others. And it will be harder to choose if you pick your Betta from a breeder and can't see it in person. If you are choosing your Betta fish from a pet store, spend a little time observing them. See if there is a fish which exhibits personality traits you like, or one that seems lively and aware of his surroundings.

The best advice in that case is simply to choose a Betta whose colors and tail shape you like.

No matter where you buy your Betta from, here are some tips that will help you choose the best Betta fish for you: Page | 28

Buying Your New Betta Fish from a Pet Store

Buying a Betta fish isn't like choosing a puppy or a kitten based on how cute and fluffy it is, or how it seems to beg to be taken home with you. In fact, before you even start looking in the Betta tank, you need to check out the rest of the pet shop very carefully.

If the pet store you've chosen raises any of the following red flags, then don't buy a fish from them - even if the Bettas found appear healthy.

Timely Tip: Never buy a fish that's just arrived at the pet store. Not only will it be agitated and stressed out from the trip, but any illnesses or diseases it might have won't show up right away!

Here's what you're looking for: The overall cleanliness of the store itself The general knowledge and attitude of the employees The cleanliness of all the fish tanks The cleanliness of the water The general condition of all the animals, especially the fish The condition of the fish Are they losing their scales? Page | 29

Do they have "fur" or Timely Tip: Ask the store what their guarantee for your fish is. Reputable stores will offer a refund or replacement if your fish should get sick or die within a specified period of time. If your store doesn't offer a guarantee, then that's a red flag and you should look somewhere else to buy your new Betta!) other strange substances on their bodies? Are any of them suffering from bulging or displaced eyes? Do their tails have cuts or older wounds?

If the store passes muster, then it's time to look at their Betta fish. Many pet stores keep their Bettas in small containers, both to keep them isolated so they don't fight with other fish, and to make it easier to transport them. So don't expect the Betta fish to jump for joy or wag their tails when they see you. But check for the following: Are their colors bright? (Dull colors indicate stress, agitation or illness) Are they alert? Are they clean and free from obvious injuries to their scales, tales and eyes?

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Taking Your Fish Home from the Pet Store

Although it's certainly easier on your fish for you to take him home yourself, rather than having him shipped, there are still certain precautions you need to take to ensure his safe arrival and reducing the amount of stress he'll experience during the ride.

One of the main things to remember is to try to keep from jostling him as much as possible. Following these simple steps will go a long way in keeping your fish safe: Don't try to bring him home in a large container filled with a lot of water - in fact, in this case, air is the most important consideration. Try to give your Betta about three times more air than water. Bring a small cooler with you - one for holding a six pack of coke is perfect. Start by packing the bottom of the cooler with several layers of newspaper. (Two or three of the free newspapers with the classified ads is perfect). This is to make sure that you're putting your Betta on a flat surface. Buy a Styrofoam block that you cut at home to fit the cooler and take a knife with you, so you can quickly make the final adjustments before putting your fish inside. (If you don't want to use Styrofoam, you can use wadded up newspaper to surround and protect your fish, but make sure that it provides enough support!) Once you know how big the container your

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fish will be in is, cut the top of the Styrofoam block to cover about of it. Place it inside the cooler. Put the cooler on the floor or your vehicle, or strap it into the back seat of your car, using the seat belt. (Don't put it in the trunk, especially if it's summer). Secure it again with a small bungee cord, to keep it from moving around if you go over any bumps or when you go around corners. Drive slowly and carefully and go straight home. (This isn't the time to stop and pick up a gallon of milk from the store). Pay attention to bumps, railroad track and sharp corners.

Buying Your Betta from a Breeder

One of the best places to find a reputable breeder - and also to get more information about Betta fish, is the International Betta Congress. You can find them on the Internet at: http://www.ibcbettas.com

If at all possible, find a breeder in your area, and go and pick out and bring home - your fish yourself. If that's not possible, and you've decided to buy your Betta fish from a breeder, here are some tips to make sure you choose the best possible fish for you: Check out the breeder's Website. You should be able to find pictures and descriptions of the Betta fish they have for sale.

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Take your time and note down specifics about the fish you're most interested in. After narrowing down your search, contact the breeder, either by email or telephone. Ask any questions you have about the fish, its personality, care and feeding, etc.

The Journey from the Breeder to You:

Once you've chosen your fish, and made your payment, find out from the breeder how the fish will be shipped. Special Note: If you're buying a fish in the spring or winter, or any time the temperature will be going lower than 65, make sure the breeder is including heat packs. To insure the safe arrival of your fish, the breeder should be taking the following precautions when packing and shipping your Betta fish: A professional shipping container that's large enough for the number of fish you've purchased Styrofoam blocks or peanuts for protecting the container and fish during shipping Each fish should be placed inside its own container or plastic bag. (If plastic bags are used, it should be double or triplebagged, to help protect your fish if one of the bags breaks). The bag should not be full of water - in fact, special canned oxygen should have been added to the bag before it was sealed, to create an air bubble for your Betta fish to breathe during transport.

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Your Betta fish should be shipped "overnight" whether you're using FedEx, UPS, or the Postal Service. The bag should be packed inside a specially cut foam block, or other protective material with Styrofoam peanuts on the bottom of the shipping container and on all sides. The shipping container should be marked "Live Fish - Handle with Care" If the breeder doesn't follow these basic steps, ask what their method for transporting is, and make sure that you're comfortable with it. If not, you have the choice of asking the breeder to ship your Betta fish differently, or finding a different breeder. By the way, not all breeders offer a guarantee if your fish doesn't arrive alive. So if your fish is traveling a long distance, or the weather conditions are extreme, you might want wait or find a breeder closer to you.

Chapter 4 - The Care and Feeding of Your Betta Fish Introducing Your Betta Fish into his New Home:
So, you found your new pet, and brought him home. But wait! Don't just throw him into the tank, toss him some food and expect him to adapt! Page | 34

As has been mentioned before, Bettas can suffer from stress, and introducing your Betta fish into his new home is something that you should do with some care and consideration. (After all, he doesn't know what's going on, and unless you speak fish, you can't explain that he's about to become king of a brand new castle!)

Here's how to give your Betta the keys to his new home, and give him a chance to explore the neighborhood.

If your Betta is the Only Fish in the Aquarium:

Put your Betta fish - in the original bag or container he arrived in - inside the tank. Let him float there for at least 15 minutes inside that container. This gives equalizes the water temperature (and gives your Betta a chance to get used to the temperature in the tank), and also gives him a chance to relax and look around. To avoid starting your Betta out in dirty water, when you put your Betta into his new tank, use a net or tip him in gently - but don't add the water he's been swimming in into the tank. Let your Betta fish swim around and explore for several hours before feeding him. It won't hurt him, and it will give him a chance to feel settled in.

How and When to Add More Fish to the Tank:

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According to Betta fish experts, the safe maximum number of fish in your aquarium is to plan one inch of adult fish for every gallon of water in the tank. (This means that if your Betta is going into a one gallon container, then it should be the only fish.) And if you're buying fish that have not reached adult size, you need to make your calculations based on how big they'll get, not how big they are when you get them.

To start adding more fish to the tank, start with two strong, healthy fish for every ten gallons of water. You need to go through the first water stabilization process (six to eight weeks) before adding any more. After the water has had a chance to stabilize, and your readings show continued low levels of nitrites and ammonia, you can begin adding on or two fish a week until you've reached the maximum population level for your tank size, (or the total number of fish you want to keep.)

By introducing the fish in this way, it allows the good bacteria in your tank to adjust to the additional population before adding more. If your ammonia and nitrite levels begin to rise, make a 25% water change, and monitor the levels carefully for the next two or three days. Don't add any more fish until the levels have gone back down.

Friends of Betta Fish - How to Choose Other Fish to Add to Your Aquarium
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Contrary to what you may think, your Betta fish is not a solitary creature, and actually enjoys the company of other fish. However there are some fish that you should never put into a tank with your Betta - either because they are natural enemies, or because they'll be attracted to your Betta fish's long flowing fins and tail, and try to "take a bite" every now and then!

Here are some fish that DON'T belong in the tank with your Betta fish: Gouramis Platy Variatus Any species that has long fins Guppies

Fish that make good companions for Betta fish include: Angelfish Swordfish Cory Catfish Some other tips to assure a happy, healthy mixed fish population: Make sure that you don't put any cold water fish into the tank with your Betta - because somebody is going to end up getting sick (goldfish for example, are cold water fish, and can't survive in water that's too hot. But if you put a Betta fish into water that's too cold, he will become listless, won't eat and may die. Page | 37

Choose slow-moving fish. Some fish swim around very fast, and can break your Betta fish's bubble nest, not to mention make him very nervous and stressed out. Snails are good friends in a fish tank because they eat the debris (leftover food) and other organic matter. (But if you suddenly have too many snails, it means that you're not keeping the tank clean enough, and there is too much leftover food. Snails are asexual, and it only takes one to reproduce). When introducing a new fish to the tank, make sure you monitor the behavior of the rest of the fish for a couple of hours, and if anyone is getting too aggressive, remove it at once. A lot of the happy cohabitation is going to depend on your Betta fish's personality and habits. Just like people, Bettas have their own unique likes and dislikes, and your Betta fish will be no exception. Pay attention to his nonverbal clues and he'll let you know what he likes and what (or who) he doesn't.

Socialization Issues - Fighting, Being with Other Bettas, Living with Other Breeds of Fish

Why Betta Fish Fight Each Other

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Betta fish fight to protect their territory, to ensure that they have enough food, and also because they want to be "king of the hill" when it comes time for them to breed. These are genetic traits, and you won't be able to train your fish not to fight.

When you have two male Betta fish in the tank, they will "flare" at each other - (this means they puff up, flaring out their fins and gill covers, to make themselves look bigger and more threatening.) Often one fish will admit defeat and swim away, leaving the other male victorious.

When people began keeping and fighting Betta fish, aggression was bred into them, but over the last few years, this trait has begun to be bred out of them.

Most of the time male Bettas will only attack other males. However it's not totally unheard of for a male Betta fish to attack a new female or one that he feels threatened by, so it's always a good idea to keep an eye on your Betta fish when you first introduce another fish into the tank, or if you're putting your Betta in with other fish. Sometimes more aggressive Betta fish will nip or bite the other fish. So if you see this happening, remove the aggressive one right away to avoid injuries.

How to Keep Your Betta Fish from Fighting:

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There really is only one way - don't put two male Bettas in the same tank. If you only have one tank and two male Bettas, you have a couple of choices - the first is to use a "fish condo".

Fish Condos: These are clear plastic containers with air holes that let the tank water flow through them. Depending on the size of your tank, you may be able to fit in a two, three or four space condo. Each Betta fish has his own space, and you can put up visual barriers such as plants or java moss so that he can't see the other Betta.

You can also put a single mesh divider in one section of your tank that will keep your male Betta fish separated from each other.

Flaring and Showing Off

If you're going to "show" your Betta fish, one of the things the judges want to see is your Betta flaring.

In addition to flaring at other male Bettas, your Betta may flare when he's introduced to a new Betta female - a kind of mating dance. (Again, make sure that he doesn't get too aggressive!) Some male Bettas will even flare if they catch sight of their own reflections in a mirror!

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Safety Tip: Don't show your new Betta his reflection or other male Betta fish right away. Remember, he'll be stressed out enough from the journey, and needs time to get used to his new home and new surroundings. Whenever possible give him a week or so in the tank alone, to really give him time to get comfortable and relaxed. Sometimes when Bettas get nervous they'll bite their own tails - this is a sign of extreme stress, and

Some Betta experts agree that flaring or showing off for female Bettas is a normal and healthy exercise for your male Betta fish. They insist that it keeps them alert and interested in what's going on in their world.

If you only have one Betta fish, you can put a small mirror down in the tank once in a while. Chances are he will think he's seeing another male and will flare up, to "warn off" the intruder. Don't do it too often or for too long, or you could cause your Betta to become stressed.

If you have two male Betta fish in the same tank that are separated by mesh, here's a trick that is used by Betta Breeders to induce flaring: About 30 minutes before it's time to feed your Bettas, just remove the moss or plants and let them naturally discover that they're not alone - they'll begin flaring as soon as they see each other. When it's feeding time, go ahead and feed them. When they're done eating, put the moss or plants back in place. Page | 41

Female Betta Fish - Divas in Disguise

Male Betta fish aren't the only ones that can be aggressive. Your female Bettas have a pecking order all their own as well. (Think of a harem in the days of the Arabian Nights stories) When kept in the same tank, female Betta fish will establish a social order from the most dominant to the least. So if you're introducing a new female into an established tank, keep an eye on the ladies to make sure that no one is getting pushed around or bullied.

Creating a Calm and Soothing Environment

If your fish is acting agitated or disturbed, or exhibiting signs of stress, such as biting himself, then it's time to create a calm and soothing environment. Here are some tips to help: If your new Betta is very stressed out, add one square inch of dried Indian Almond leaves (also known as "wild Almond leaves" or "Ketapang") to the tank water, and let it seep over night. It will turn the water brown (like tea), but according to a Betta expert at "tothefish.com", your Betta fish will love it! The leaves contain organic acids tannins and humic, and lowers the pH of the water, absorbs harmful chemicals and may inhibit harmful forms of bacteria. In addition to producing water very much like that of the natural environment of Betta fish, it also has healing properties, and has been known to help fish when they are pale and floating on the bottom of the tank, or refusing to eat or after injuries. Some Betta breeders also use it to help condition the bodies of small fry. Page | 42

If your Betta seems agitated for no apparent reason, and you've got him in a round tank, try one that's rectangular shaped. Some fish may find the distorted reflections confusing. Try adding a female to the tank. For many male Betta fish, once they've accepted the female, having her around has a calming effect. Put him in a bigger tank. If your Betta fish is in a small tank, it may be that he needs more room. Turn on soft music, your television or even put try a lava lamp or fiber optic lamp near the tank for a short time. (Pay close attention to your Betta's behavior though - this calms some Betta fish, while it agitates others.) Clean his tank. It may be that the dirty water is making him sick or agitated.

Feeding Your Betta Fish

The first thing you need to know is that Bettas are basically meat eaters.

The second thing is that they love live food - mosquito larvae, live blood worms and brine shrimp. The problem is that live food is prone to carry bacteria and parasites (and let's face it - not really an attractive idea for the owners to have to touch either!)

There is a huge variety of Betta fish food on the market - everything from flakes to live food. So how do you choose? Page | 43

Here's what NOT to feed your Betta: Fish flakes (your Betta's mouth isn't cut out for this type of food, and you'll probably find he nibbles and tastes and then just swims away). Live food (too many parasites or bacteria that can harm your fish) Food blocks (although they are advertised as being a good way to feed your fish while you're on vacation, in reality they pollute the water and your fish won't like them). Too much of one kind of fish food (just like us, Betta fish like and need - variety). The best food for your Betta is going to be freeze-dried brine shrimp. Not only is it safe from bacterium and parasites, but once it hits the water, it will quickly thaw, and tastes like the live variety to your Betta fish.

As a special treat, occasionally offer freeze-dried bloodworms. For more information and ideas about the perfect food choices for your Betta fish, check with your vet, local pet store or Betta breeder.

Don't "Supersize Me" Please! (How Much to Feed Your Betta Fish)
Remember, your Betta has a very small stomach, and he really doesn't need much food. A good rule of thumb to follow is to feed Page | 44

your Betta fish as much food as he or she can eat in 2 or 3 minutes. And make sure to remove any floating food pieces after 5 minutes, because if left in the tank, it will just float down to the bottom and start to decay, which causes dirty water and illnesses.

How Often To Feed Your Betta

Only feed adult Betta fish once a day. According to leading Betta experts, here are a few other tips you should follow to keep your Betta healthy and happy: Feed your Betta fish about an hour before or after sunset. This will simulate his natural environment, because that's when live bugs often come out and land in the water. Choose a set day of each week not to feed your Betta at all. This will help to make sure that his digestive tract doesn't get overloaded, and will help to keep him healthy and strong. Check with your vet, pet store or Betta breeder for specific information about the best brand names of food and types and varieties to feed him.

Everything You Need to Know About Changing the Water in the Tank
Breeders and veterinarians agree that in the majority of cases, the leading causes of death for Betta fish can be linked back to a dirty tank.

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When you change the water in the tank weekly, you're reducing the ammonia and nitrites that will continually be produced in the tank, while the good bacterium continues to multiply and grow.

By checking the levels once or twice a week (or if the water becomes cloudy once you've past the first stage of bacterial growth), you'll be able to monitor when the ammonia and nitrite levels get too high, and can add an extra water changing if necessary. (Remember too that high levels of ammonia and nitrites cause your Betta fish to experience stress and over time, this can kill him).

Use a good water conditioner when you're replacing the water, and remember to make sure that the water you add is the same temperature as the water still in the tank, to avoid putting your fish into shock. Carefully monitoring of the water every few days will help you to ensure that your fish stay healthy and disease free.

Therefore it's vitally important that you build some time into your schedule to clean your Betta's tank once every week. If you follow these simple steps, and put the cleaning into your schedule, you'll find it's not at all difficult. Leave your fish in the tank whenever possible during cleanings - it causes them less stress or shock from too drastic a change in water temperatures. Use a siphon to clean out any gunk from under the gravel, especially if you're using an under gravel filter. (Remember to gently clean the filter using water from the fish tank). Page | 46

Never use soaps, cleaning products or chemicals to clean the tank - they can be harmful or even deadly to your Betta fish. Use an algae scrapper or scrubby (that's only used for your fish tank) to clean of any accumulated algae or other debris that's clinging to the sides of your tank. Use either a siphon hose or a scoop (again that's only used for your fish tank) to remove the correct amount of water from the tank. If you've got algae growing on plants or other decorations, clean them with warm water, or water saved from the fish tank, and use a scrubby, but no soap or detergents. Replace the gravel and any decorations that were removed. Trim back any plants and take out dead leaves. Fill the tank back up with treated water that is the same temperature.

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Chapter 5: Love is in the Air - Breeding Your Bettas

Many people who start off with one Betta fish at first decide to buy another one later on. And then after that, they decide to try breeding their Bettas.

This isn't as easy as it sounds, especially for the beginner. In fact, unless you're serious about breeding, and are ready to take on the additional responsibility, time and cost involved, my suggestion would be for you not to do it.

But if you do decide to try breeding your Betta fish, here are some simple tips that will help you to get started, and increase your chances of success: Don't buy Betta fish that you intend to breed from a pet store. Chances are the fish will be too old, not healthy enough or from impure strains. All of these factors mean that your chances of success will be slim to none. Buy your Betta fish from a reputable Breeder, and ask for their help in choosing the right breeding pair. (Most breeder experts agree that the best pair will be brother and sister, and come from the same group of fry.) Buy two pairs each of male and female Betta fish. That way if one pair doesn't like each other, or there are other problems, you've got a back-up.

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Buy young Betta fish for Breeders. Don't look for the flowing fins and bright colors - they're often too old for breeding. Instead, look for younger fish - ideally between 8 and 12 months old. Breed the same strain together - mixing breeds often yields poor results, and there are some pairs that are totally incompatible to breed together. If you are going to mix strains, talk to an experienced breeder first for his or her recommendations about colors, fin and tail shapes, etc. Choose fish that have the colors you're looking for. And don't breed a male that's aggressive - because that's a genetic trait that is passed down. Make sure the female isn't larger than the male. During breeding, the male wraps his body around the female to fertilize the eggs, and if she's bigger than he is, it will be physically impossible.

Setting Up a Breeding Tank

Just like when you set up your first fish tank, you have to set up a separate tank for breeding. Choose a suitable 10 gallon (37.86 liters) tank, and follow these steps - do this about two weeks before you're going to start breeding: Prepare the water (it's the same procedure as you used for your regular aquarium) Install the heater (make sure to get it in the right position and let it sit in the water for a half hour before turning it on, to avoid Page | 49

overheating the glass) The optimum temperature for breeding is 80 to 82 Fahrenheit. Add an outside thermometer so you can accurately monitor the water temperate inside the tank - put it about two thirds of the way down on the outside wall of the tank. Install a box type filtering system, and make sure that it uses a fiber filter, not charcoal. Add some filter material from your regular tank to seed the bacterial process. You want to set up the filter so that it's only bubbling slowing - just a couple of bubbles every second. Add a few live plants to give the female somewhere to hide, and the male something to anchor his bubble nest to, but don't add gravel or other accessories Add some aquarium salt (about two teaspoons for every five gallons) Add some Maroxy, which is a product to prevent a fungus that attacks Betta eggs (follow package directions) Treat the water with the appropriate water products such as Amquel, Novaqua and Aquarisol.

How to Jumpstart Your Bettas Mating Hormones

Here's a trick experienced breeders use when they want to start breeding a pair of Betta fish: Two weeks before you're ready to start breeding (while you're preparing the tank), start feeding your Bettas live Mysis, blood worms, brine shrimp or other food that's high in proteins. If you're worried about the possibility of parasites or you Page | 50

just don't want to deal with live food, then it's okay to use the freezedried. Follow the same feeding procedure - hand feed your fish, and only give them as much as they can eat in two minutes. After that, remove all excess food with a turkey baster.

Introducing Your Betta Fish into the Breeding Tank

Start by introducing the male into the tank. Put him into a cup and float it in the new tank for about a half hour, to let him adjust to the new water temperature. After half an hour, add some of the tank water to the cup, and wait for another 20 minutes to a half hour. Then release him into the tank. Let him look around and check things out for while. After a couple of hours, put the female into a smaller tank and set it next to the breeding tank so the two can get a look at each other. If he starts flaring and she starts showing vertical stripes, it means they're interested in each other! He should start building a bubble nest - but this could take anywhere from a few days to a week or more, so you're going to have to be patient. If after an hour or so they're not showing any interest in each other, or worse, the female is flaring at the male - which is her way of saying "Get Lost!" then it's time to try the second female.

Introducing the Female Betta into the Tank

If they've shown that they're interested in each other, then it's time to introduce the female into the tank. Make sure the temperature of the water is around 82 F. Remove all but about 5 inches of water in the tank. (This simulates the dry season in your fish's natural environment, which is their normal mating time.) You may have to adjust the filter so that it's still working properly now that there is less water in the tank.

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Start by floating the female in a cup, and letting her get used to the temperature of the water. Follow the same steps that you did when you introduced the male into the new tank - but when you're ready to put your female into the water, insert the glass tube from a hurricane lamp, placing the biggest end down into the water, with the narrower end extending up out of the water. Carefully put the female into the tube, and let her and the male get a closer look at each other. If they're still acting interested, after half an hour, release lift the glass tube out of the tank, and let her begin to swim around. You need to monitor their behavior for the next couple of hours make sure that the male isn't getting too aggressive, and that he's not attacking her to the point of really hurting her.
Timely Tip: Some aggression during this period is normal - after all, you want them to be excited to be together, and the male should be flexing his fishy muscles and showing off for her. He'll probably be swimming around her in circles, and maybe rubbing against her or pushing her. That's all normal! What you don't want is for them to be in opposite corners of the tank ignoring each other, or fighting enough that the neighbors would call the police about a domestic dispute!

What Happens During Spawning

As strange as it seems, one of the signs that the male Betta is ready to spawn is when he begins biting the female. She will probably react by swimming away and hiding, but will venture out from time to time, and then hide again. At some point however, she will come out from hiding, swimming with her head pointed down submissively toward the male. Page | 52

At this point, he will become almost frenzied - probably swimming in circles around her, building his bubble nest, and flaring like crazy! They will begin swimming together, probably swimming around each other, and it may look as if they're caressing each other, or it may look as if they're still fighting. If it gets rough, don't separate them, but keep a close eye on them - some males will actually kill their mates by being too rough. When they find the right angle and their bodies fit together perfectly, the male will wrap around her and squeeze tightly and lock in place for a few seconds - they may even sink to the bottom of the tank during this "embrace." When he lets her go, she'll be temporarily paralyzed, and he'll most likely swim to the bottom of the tank to see if she's released any eggs. If not, they'll repeat the process as many times as it takes until she does. As soon as she releases her eggs, he will fertilize them. The eggs will sink to the bottom of the tank, and he'll begin the process of swimming down, gathering them up in his mouth, and carrying them up and attaching them gently to the bubble nest. Since there could be as many as 500 fertilized eggs, this is a lot of work - back and forth, up and down. But he'll do it quickly and almost mechanically. He may be so involved in taking care of the eggs that he'll even refuse to eat for the next couple of days. Don't worry - he'll start eating again when his job is done. While he's doing this, the female will swim away and may hide again. At this point, it's a good idea to remove her from the tank to make sure that she doesn't start eating the eggs. (Also, if she swims too near the bubble nest, he may kill her.) Just make sure that you don't disturb the bubble nest when you take her out. After you've taken her out, cover the top of the tank either with plastic wrap or a lid, so that there is no cool air moving over the bubble nest. Page | 53

You want a high level of humidity in the tank while the fry are growing too, as this helps the development of their labyrinth. If you don't do this - most of your fry will drown, so it's very important! Make sure that you're changing the water in the tank every other day starting about 24 hours after the fry are born - but be very careful that they don't get caught up in the siphon! You'll want to test the water every day, and monitor the water temperature carefully.

Over the next two days, you'll see the male Betta periodically take the eggs into his mouth, to clean them. After a couple of days, the chemicals in his mouth change, and will dissolve the outer layer of the egg shell so that the fry are released. About thirty-six hours after spawning, you should begin to notice little black dots that resemble commas on a typewritten page. They will begin to fall out of the bubble nest and sink to the bottom of the tank. The male Betta will make several trips to the bottom of the tank to patiently retrieve them, and put them back inside the bubble nest. Shortly after that, the fry will begin swimming in a horizontal position on their own. When that starts happening, you can remove the male Betta from the tank. (If he starts eating the fry, you can remove him earlier.) When you remove him, the fry will begin falling again to the bottom of the tank - don't worry, they will be fine until it's time to start feeding them.

Feeding the Fry

In the beginning, the fry will live off the egg sack, and you don't have to do anything. When they start swimming on their own, you'll need to begin feeding them with a product called "microfood" or "Infusoria" or other liquid food that you can buy from your local pet store. They'll need to be fed 4 or 5 times a day. Page | 54

After about two weeks, you'll need to begin feeding them live baby brine shrimp or microworms. Once they are about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) long, you can begin feeding them ground up adult Betta food - the freeze dried is fine. Reduce the number of feedings per day to two or three. Remove all the food they don't eat after five minutes, to help keep the water clean.

Characteristics of Your New "Small Fry"

Your fry will be very small when born, and they don't grow rapidly. In fact, it will take about 7 months before you notice that they begin really growing or gaining colors. Your fry aren't going to be very active during this stage of their development either. Most of the time, they'll probably sit on the bottom of the tank and wait for you to feed them. But as they grow, keep an eye on them and watch for aggressive behavior from some of the males. If they start getting too aggressive with the other fry, then it's time to remove them from the breeding tank and put them into their own containers. Females can usually be kept together longer, but again, watch for aggression and be prepared to remove aggressive females too.

If Your First Breeding Attempt Fails

First of all, don't get discouraged. Successful breeding depends on so many different factors, and you won't have control over many of them. If your first attempt doesn't work out, try again in a couple of weeks, using a different pair. One good practice when you're just getting started is to take lots of notes - about the time of day, the weather, the temperature, the temperature in the tank, the actions and reactions of the fish, etc. That way, when you're talking to a breeder about what happened, you won't have to try and rely on memory alone. And it may be the

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breeder may be able to give you some valuable insight about what to do - or not to do - the next time you try to breed your Betta fish.

Chapter 6: Common Health Problems and Treatments for Your Betta Fish
As was mentioned earlier in this book, most Betta illnesses can be traced back to one thing - dirty water in the aquarium. However, there are a couple of other problems as well - that if you pay attention to them, you can prevent illness - which is a lot easier than trying to treat it after the fact. Before handling anything in the tank or your Betta fish, wash your hands thoroughly - (and use a natural soap, with no preservatives or additives or perfumes.)

Handling Your Fish

Unless it's absolutely necessary, NEVER pick your fish up with your hands - squeezing your fish even a little bit can cause internal injuries Don't touch your fish or pet it, as you'll damage the slime coat which is nature's way of protecting it from illness and disease If you must pick up your fish by hand (use a net whenever possible), try to keep it in the palm of your hand only, and don't try holding it between your fingers. If possible, cup your hand and let it float in a little aquarium water, rather than resting directly on your palm

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Water Precautions
Follow a regular schedule for cleaning the tank and do partial water changes once a week Use the right additives to the water, and follow mixing directions on the package carefully Monitor and maintain the proper water temperature and don't let it vary more than one or two degrees

Feeding Precautions
Feed your Betta on a regular schedule Don't over-feed your Betta fish and remove leftover food right away Give your Betta fish the proper food - no flakes, or blocks and if you're using live food make sure you clean it first If your fish does get sick or injured, you can contact your Betta breeder, your local pet store (if they have a fish expert on staff) or your local vet, to get advice and information. But in the meantime, check out the chart on the next page for information and treatment advice about some of the most common illnesses, and injury problems. Remember though - this information should not be substituted for sound medical advice, and neither the author or publisher of this book take any responsibility for the consequences if your fish should get worse, or die.

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Common Illnesses, Ailments, Injuries and How to Treat Them

Symptoms Fish die suddenlyfor no apparent reason Sudden death, presence of worms noted hanging from anus, excessive or rapid weight loss, lethargic Analysis of Problem Possible poisoning Treatment Post-mortem exam necessary for proper diagnosis Usuallycaused byeating live brown worms. Treat with parasitical product such as Metrozol Test water for chlorine or other harmful chemicals Examine fish and treat with proper medicine Do a 100% water change with properlytreated, aged water Clean tank and test storage containers for chemical residue

Endoparasites

Bacterial or Parasitical Infection Fish stay near the bottom of tank Fish stay near the top of the tank Fish are sluggish and refuse to eat or eat less than normal

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Fish lose their color Oxygen levels too low Check O2 Levels in everya.m. If consistentlylow, install an air pump Test water for ammonia, nitrite & pH levels. Use additives and do a water change Examine fish for parasites (such as Trichodina, flukes and white-spot Treat as recommended

Fish rub against plants, ornaments or sides of tank & mayshow a "silver flash" on underbelly

Possible skin irritation or allergy

Fish has small white spots that Bacterial infection called look like salt on skin and fins, "Ichtyophthirius" or "Ich" or mayalso have mucus on skin; "Ick" rubs against sides of tank and ornaments, maybe listless and lie on bottom of tank

Add 1 teaspoon of pure rock salt (available at grocery store) for everygallon of water Increase water temperature in tank to between 81 - 83 during treatment If salt treatment is not effective, purchase "ick" treatment medication at pet store and follow directions

Betta covered with a thin gold or rust colored film, loses its color, rubs against sides of tank and ornaments, loses appetite Betta has white colored patches on skin that look like cotton, or skin is inflamed or patches of eroding skin

Infectious parasite called "Velvet".

Quarantine infected fish Follow same treatment for Ich

Fungal Infections - either Saprolegenia or Columnaris (also called cotton mouth fungus) Low O2, or dissolved 02 in water

Fish seem to be experiencing difficultybreathing

Treat with Methylene Blue an effective anti-fungal treatment available at local pet store or if that doesn't work, use aquarium tetracycline Check 02 levels in a.m. - if consistentlylow, buyan air pump Clean filter and make sure it's working properly

Filter clogged or dirty

High chemical levels in tank water

Test water & adjust as needed

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O2 in water are within normal levels - possible viral infection

Quarantine fish & give high protein diet; clean tank daily, add teaspoon aquarium salt per gallon of tank water

Fish stays on bottom of tank, or buries self in water, surfaces onlyto breathe Betta Fish refuses to eat Milky gray patches on skin

Dirtywater

Clean tank and do 100% water change Do a water change Add teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of tank water Check water for ammonia, nitrite and pH levels. Adjust as needed. Treat water with Methylene Blue Check nitrite, ammonia and pH levels. Adjust as needed. Do a water change. Clean and check filter Treat with Methylene Blue Treat with Neosulfex for up to 1 month until healed Change water and treat with aquarium salt

Possible parasites on fish

Possible bacterial infection Fish seems unusually agitated or hides all the time Shredded or Torn fins High chemical levels in water

High levels of organic debris in tank Potential Bacterial infection

Fins appear to be withering away Betta appears to be swollen or patches of skin are swollen

Possible Fin Rot Parasitic Cysts

Damage caused byother fish in tank or tank ornaments Swelling accompanied by raised scales Internal Tumors, unusual growths or protrusions on skin or fins, large & smooth growths on skin, or growths resembling cauliflower, may be red and white Bacterial infection Treat tank with Methylene Blue No treatment available. Do not buyadditional fish from that line, and do not breed that line

Genetic Cancers, lymphocytes Tumors

carp pox, warts (papillomas), CloudyEyes (Corneal Opacity) Damage Caused by Other fish or ornaments in tank

Some maydisappear on their own over time Monitor behavior of other fish, remove and replace dangerous tank ornaments Add more protein to diet

Poor Diet

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DirtyWater

Check chemical levels, change water Apply anti-bacterial treatment Treat water with Methylene Blue or anti-fungal medication Treat with antibiotic called Ampicilex; Change water twice as often during treatment; maintain regular water changes and tank cleaning Check all electrical appliances in tank Follow all directions on packages carefully Check diet and provide more protein Test water, adjust as necessary, do a water change No treatment available. Do not buyfrom that strain again and do not breed that strain Cut back on amount of food, cut back on brine shrimp and bloodworms Quarantine fish and apply Methylene Blue to water

Bacterial Infection White coating on eye Possible fungus infection

One or both eyes bulge outwards, loss of appetite, lethargic or listless

Bacterial infection called Popeye - caused bydirty water

Spinal Deformities

Electrical shock

Improper use of medical treatments Poor nutrition

Presence oftoxins in water

Genetic Conditions

Fish swims in unusual manner, mayfloat on back when not swimming, appears dizzyor off-balance

Swim-bladder infection caused byover eating

Swim-bladder bacterial or viral infection or other organ disease Kidneydisease or intestinal blockage Dropsy

Fatal, no treatment available Highlycontagious, quarantine sick fish immediately. Add 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon of water. Applyaquarium Tetracycline. Slight chance of survival, but usuallyfatal

Scales develop raised prickly appearance resembling pine cones, abdomen swells, fish dies suddenly

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