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ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 2
instant
KRAKÓW
Arriving by bus - 22:00). These guys have the usual display of pamphlets,
can organize tours and stock In Your Pocket. Both sections of
International buses arrive and depart from the brand new the station - the subterranean tunnel and the main hall - have
terminal (Dworzec autobusowy) at ul. Bosacka (E-1). There’s left luggage lockers. A large piece of luggage will cost 8zł for
a exchange bureau (kantor), open 08:30 - 17:30, as well as one day, and a small one 4zł. Make sure you have change.
an ATM (bankomat). Payphones can be found in the main Payphones can be found dotted around, though you will need
building, and you can buy phone cards from the newsagents. to find a phonecard from a newsagent to use them.
Here you can also buy pre-paid cards and SIM cards for your Taxis stand outside the main entrance, as well as on the top
mobile. Lockers for left luggage cost 4-8zł depending on the floor car park. In spite of the proximity to old town you’ll still
size for 24hrs, and there are also larger lockers available if find yourself charged about 10zł to get to the centre. Buses
you’re lugging skiing gear or golf clubs. The bus station is and trams stop outside Galeria Krakowska, with tickets priced
August - September 2008 right next to the train station so exactly the same rules apply at 2.50zł. Buy them from newsagents kiosks or from the self-
for getting to town. service machines at the stop themselves.
Kraków Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1, Most people however (unless they are weighed down by lug-
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. 012 393 52 52. gage) choose to walk into the Old Town, where most of the
city’s hotels and hostels are. Just follow the signs for wyjście
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Introducing Kraków Arriving by car do centrum, or to Galeria Krakowska. From there you’ll find
yourself deposited in a large granite floored plaza right in front
KRAKÓW For a foreigner Kraków can be carved in two segments: the old town and For the time being there’s only one major highway leading of the Andels Hotel and Galeria Krakowska. Continue down
Kazimierz. Wedged between these two districts lies Wawel. For Poles into Krakow via Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt until you reach a subway which leads under ul. Basztowa/ul.
this castle and cathedral complex is a defining icon of national pride doesn’t come free. A 6,50zł toll is paid when you enter and Westerplatte and you’ll find yourself in the old town.
August - September 2008 and patriotism. For the tourist Wawel means queues, Kodak, dragons exit the motorway. The bottleneck doesn’t begin until you get
and an unforgettable journey through the heritage and legends of this into Krakow. If heading to the centre, be aware that parking Main Railway Station (Dworzec Główny) E-2, Pl.
country. Forget any guidebooks you may have swallowed on the way, a is quite a chore. Jana Nowaka-Jeziorańskiego 3, tel. 012 393 15 80,
walk through the courtyards and corridors of Wawel is an A-Z through this www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Q Ticket Office Open 24hrs.
nation’s history and tradition. Put it on the top of any itinerary you have.
Arriving by plane
Back to the city centre, and the beauty of Kraków’s old town cannot John Paul II Kraków Balice Airport (Port lotniczy w Krakowie Minibuses
be ignored. Stuffed with museums, galleries and gargoyles, the Balicach imieniem Jana Pawła II ) is modern and easy to Krakow Shuttle I-1, ul. Szlak 26/23, tel. 012 633 01
gridlike street plan is powdered with chapels, churches and a blend navigate, though not without its pitfalls. On arrival you’ll find 25, www.krakowshuttle.com. Good value Kraków and
of architectural styles. Both postcard perfect and cliché, the old town a 24hrs currency exchange office as well as a clutch of ATMs Katowice airport transfers, as well as tours of hard to reach
is a battleground of souvenir stores and mime artists. Accordion (bankomat), as well as a helpful if limited tourist information sights in and around the city (Wieliczka, Auschwitz). QOpen
players ply trade next to old trout’s selling bobble hats and bagels. point; you won’t be able to buy phone cards or train tickets, 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
It is an area of cellar bars and jazz clubs, of world-class restaurants though they will be able to provide you with the next best thing:
and hole-in-the-wall kebab stands. Amazing. an In Your Pocket mini guide. There is no left luggage facility
at the airport, and note that while there are payphones you’ll Public transport
And so to Kazimierz. Famous for its associations with Schindler and need to buy a chip card (karta telefoniczna) from one of the While Krakow has no metro system it does have an integrated
Hit the hills
Spielberg, there’s more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries newsagents to operate them. bus and tram system which runs from 05:00 - 23:00, with some
Zakopane explored and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and spanners, The best way to get into town is to take the quick and frequent night buses continuing after that. To buy tickets, look for the
Out of town
you’ll find the heart of Kraków’s edgy, artistic character. Peeling shuttle train to Kraków Główny. A free blue bus directly outside sign sprzedaż biletów MPK in kiosks or pay an additional 0.50zł
N°53
Poland - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)
from bat caves to salt façades and wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky cafés, each one the terminal takes you to the airport’s new train station (you and buy a ticket from the driver. One-trip tickets (one trip being
mines
UK - £5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3 effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. can walk in five minutes). Tickets are purchased from the one journey on a tram or bus not a point to point journey using
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334 conductor, and cost 6zł. The service runs every 20 minutes different trams and buses) cost 2.50zł (1.25zł for concessions
Between Kazimerz, Wawel and the old town you’ll find approximately throughout the day, and the shuttle bus service is timed to including children between 4 and 16 years of age), one-hour
2.5 million registered works of art, and nowhere near enough days coincide with departing trains. tickets 3.10zł (1.55zł), 24-hour tickets 10.40zł (5.20zł), 48-hour
to visit them all. As the museums and churches bolt their doors you’ll For those who can’t be doing with public transport, honest tickets 18.80zł (9.40zł), 72-hour tickets 25zł (12.50zł), 7-day
see Kraków emerge in another guise entirely - as one of Europe’s premier party towns. Nowhere in the world boasts a higher MPT 9191 taxis stand outside the main entrance to the tickets 38zł (19zł) and monthly passes 67.80zł for two lines.
concentration of bars than Kraków’s historic quarter; it’s been fun testing them out, now it’s your turn. Enjoy. airport and will charge you between 60-70zł to make the Of particular interest to families is the family ticket available
11km journey into the city. The price goes up by 50 per cent for travel on Saturdays and Sundays. For a price of 16zł a
This mini-guide is designed to highlight the very best Kraków has to offer, with map references included where applicable. between 22:00 - 06:00. Be wary of cowboy taxi operators family of up to 4 people (2 adults, 2 children under the age
This is by no means a definitive guide to the city, but a scaled down version of our print publication - pick up a copy of our and only use cabs that have meters, signs on the roof and of 16) can enjoy unlimited travel on all day -routes in Krakow.
156-page guidebook to the city from points listed on the panel next to the map overleaf. All map references used in our their telephone number clearly on display. One adult should write their details on the space provided on
guidebook are the same as those used on this mini-guide to give you the most complete package of information to Krakow. If arriving from another city in Poland, note that the domestic the reverse of the ticket and stamp it when they get on board
Full contents of all our guides can also be found online at www.inyourpocket.com. terminal is a ten minute walk from the main terminal building; the first bus or tram. ID should also be carried.
it is not all that well sign posted. While MPT 9191 taxis usu- Rucksacks, boxes or bags larger than 20x40x60cm no lon-
ally meet domestic flights, you will need to walk to the main ger require a seperate ticket. Note that ISIC or other foreign
terminal for all other transport options. student cards are valid. It is very important to note that
John Paul II Krakow Balice Airport (Port Lotniczy simply having a ticket does not give you the right to travel.
Restaurants Kraków Balice im. Jana Pawła II) ul. Medweckiego You MUST stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the
1, tel. 012 295 58 00, www.lotnisko-balice.pl. tram or bus in the small machines on-board. Beware that
Bars inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing out fines to
Clubs Arriving by train those without valid tickets. They are obliged to carry ID and
Sights to show it upon request.
The main railway station (Dworzec Główny) is conveniently An option worth noting is that the Krakow Tourist Card (see
Hotels situated at the northern tip of the Old Town, and is just a hop, what to see section) includes unlimited travel in the price. It
Transport skip and a jump from civilization. From the platform simply fol-
low the herd towards down the stairs and you’ll find yourself
can be picked up at all the main tourist information points and
selected hotels, hostels and travel agencies. If you plan to
Map in the main station building. A Euronet ATM (bankomat) lurks spend time sightseeing and travelling further than the old town
and a whole host of other useful information in the tunnel, and you’ll find a PKO ATM in the main hall. The square it definitely saves a lot of hassle with having to deal with
tunnel also houses a Tourist Information point (open 06:00 kiosk owners and trying to figure out which ticket to buy.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be 2 zł $0,99 € 0,62 £0,49 Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too Can I smoke here?
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce 3 zł $1,49 € 0,93 £0,74 paleech?)
will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number of 4 zł $1,98 € 1,25 £0,99 Jedno piwo (yedno peevo poh- One beer please
5 zł $2,48 € 1,56 £1,23 poproszę prosheh)
your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population down
the banks in your home country or the ATM although for to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco friendly 6 zł $2,97 € 1,87 £1,48
Numbers
obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, country. Poland is fast becoming the major European production 7 zł $3,47 € 2,18 £1,73 1 jeden yehden
bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip Morris, Imperial 8 zł $3,96 € 2,49 £1,98 2 dwa dva
will reward you with the best rate. The Polish currency has Tobacco and British American Tobacco all being major investors 9 zł $4,46 € 2,80 £2,22 3 trzy tshi
10 zł $4,95 € 3,12 £2,47 10 dziesięć jayshench
been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of in the economy. Those gunning for a lung-busting taste of a
the dollar has nearly halved while you will be getting 25-40% traditional local brand should keep their eyes peeled for brands 20 zł $9,90 € 6,23 £4,94
General
less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of years like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and Meski. Bear in mind that it is 50 zł $24,75 € 15,58 £12,35 Airport lotnisko
100 zł $49,50 € 31,15 £24,69 Train station dworzec pkp
back. Having said that prices for food, drink, cultural venues taken as bad luck to light your snout off a candle, especially if you
150 zł $74,26 € 46,73 £37,04 Bus station dworzec pks
and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to are close to the coast; an action which apparently guarantees Right/left prawo/lewo
200 zł $99,01 € 62,31 £49,38
Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely the death of a sailor. Unlike other EU countries Poland is yet to One ticket to jeden bilet do
250 zł $123,76 € 77,88 £61,73
cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums introduce a ban on smoking in bars and restaurants, and so far 1 000 zł $495,05 € 311,53 £246,91 First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
costs around 5-10zł. no plans have been formally announced to do so.
Novotel Kraków Centrum H-3, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel. Radisson SAS B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. 012 618 it a popular choice for busloads of tourists. Q314 rooms
Cream of the crop 012 299 29 00, fax 012 299 29 99, h3372@accor. 88 88, fax 012 618 88 89, reservations.krakow@radis- (115 singles 257zł, 191 doubles 329 - 379zł, 8 apartments
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. 012 429 60 70, com, www.orbisonline.pl. Decorated with bright blue sonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. Over 400 paintings 499 - 799zł). OTHARUGKW hhh
fax 012 429 60 62, amadeus@janpol.com.pl, www.hotel- and orange patterns the Novotel Centrum offers all the from the Kraków Academy of Art decorate the walls, while
amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the age of Mozart with comforts you’d associate with a big brand name. The hotel other trimmings include high-speed internet access, gym and Crown Piast Hotel & Park ul. Radzikowskiego 109
antique furnishings paired with state-of-the-art trimmings. includes air-conditioning from top-to-bottom, sauna, one of ice-making machines on each floor. Choose between rooms (Bronowice), tel. 012 683 26 00, fax 012 683 26 65,
Prince Charles once bedded down here and this is one place Kraków’s few hotel pools and facilities fully geared towards decorated in either ‘ocean’ (turquoise shades, smooth lines) biuro@hotelpiast.pl, www.hotelpiast.pl. Pleasant ac-
which guarantees the memorable stay that this historic city the disabled. The upper floors feature views overlooking or ‘city-style’ (scarlet colours and edges). Regardless, both commodation with floral-patterned duvets, good bathrooms
requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles €160 - 190, 20 doubles Wawel Castle. Q198 rooms (192 singles €175 - 215, 192 boast three telephone lines, heated bathroom floors and and all the trifling extras like satellite TV. Outside enjoy land-
€170 - 200, 2 apartments €250 - 300). PTJHARU doubles €175 - 215, 6 apartments €295 - 310). Breakfast the best TV units you’ll find in Poland. Q196 rooms (196 scaped gardens complete with rare plants, the occasional
FLGKDW hhhh €17. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh singles €144 - 197, 196 doubles €144 - 197, 19 suites €270 peacock and a tavern. Q180 rooms (176 singles €70 -
- 360, 49 Business Class Room €240 - 300). Breakfast €20. 180, 176 doubles €70 - 180, 4 apartments €160 - 360).
Andel’s D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. 012 660 00 00, fax 012 Pałac Bonerowski (Bonerowski Palace) C-3, ul. PTJHARUFLGKDW hhhhh PTHARUFGKD hhhhh
660 00 01, info@andelscracow.com, www.andelscra- Św. Jana 1, tel. 012 374 13 00, fax 012 374 13 05, re-
cow.com. Just steps away from the train station the Andels cepcja@palacbonerowski.pl, www.palacbonerowski.pl. Sheraton Kraków A-5, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. 012 662 10 00, Matejko I-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. 012 422 47 37, fax 012
looks set to become one of Kraków’s success stories. This A masterpiece of a hotel occupying a historic property dating fax 012 662 11 00, reservation.krakow@sheraton.com, 422 47 80, biuro@matejkohotel.pl, www.matejkohotel.pl. A
is an ultra modern hotel with a sharp design and rooms fea- from the early 16th century - King Jan Sobieski walked these www.sheraton.com/krakow. The choice of the stars. This grand effort inside a fully restored tenement building. Swish rooms
turing CD and DVD layers, in-house movies and light, bright corridors back in the 17th century. Many of the original details is where the Real Madrid football team stayed back in 2004, come with rich colours and modern trappings, offering a fine bal-
colours. Q159 rooms (153 singles €210 - 240, 153 doubles have been restored and retained, including gothic columns though usually it’s wealthy tourists and corporate travellers ance between past and present. Fully air-conditioned throughout,
€235 - 265, 6 apartments €330 - 520). PTHARUF and medieval masonry and rooms come beautifully appointed who bustle through the glass-covered atrium in this sparkling and with the full set of business facilities to boot. Q48 rooms (45
GKDW hhhh with voluptuous drapes and elegant furnishings. Features of five star venture. Rooms come decorated with chequered singles 360 - 400zł, 42 doubles 420zł, 2 triples 500zł, 3 apart-
note include a sweeping stairwell, chandelier hovering above, scarlet colour schemes and state-of-the-art amenities. Q232 ments 600zł). PTHARULGKD hhh
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. 012 424 34 00, as well as the full range of top-class services. Best of all rooms rooms (221 singles €240 - 255, 221 doubles €260 - 275, 3
fax 012 424 34 05, copernicus@hotel.com.pl, www.ho- come with grandstand views facing the main square, allowing suites €315 - 335, 7 apartments €440 - 680, 1 Wawel Suite Novotel Kraków Bronowice F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej
tel.com.pl. You’ve chosen well. Few hotels in Central Europe you to do all your holiday snaps from the warmth of your room. €1180). PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh 11, tel. 012 622 64 00, fax 012 622 64 05, nov.
can match the standard set by Copernicus, and it’s a firm Q14 rooms (10 singles 800zł, 10 doubles 950zł, 4 apart- bronowice@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. With over 300
favourite with visiting dignitaries, with guests including George ments 1250 - 1900zł). PTHARGKDW Stary C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 012 384 08 08, fax rooms under their roof this is one of Kraków’s larger hotels,
W. Tastefully uncluttered the hotel is decorated with heavy 012 384 08 09, stary@hotel.com.pl, www.stary.hotel. and as such primed for large conferences and tour groups
woodwork, marble, rich fabrics and wall frescoes - some Pugetów D-4, ul. Starowiślna 15a, tel. 012 432 49 50, com.pl. A feast of opulence awaits inside what is sure to casting a glance at the higher end of the hotel market. Ac-
dating from the 14th century. Enjoy rooftop terrace views fax 012 378 93 25, pugetow@donimirski.com, www. become regarded as one of Poland’s top hotels. Gain entry via commodation touts a clean and bright design, incorporating
of Wawel, gourmet food or the fitness centre and swimming donimirski.com. At last Kraków can boast the attractive, a huge hardwood door that automatically swings open, James simple colours with modern facilities. Start the day with a
pool housed in the medieval cellars.Q29 rooms (4 singles boutique hotel that it deserves. No expense has been spared Bond-style. Occupying a former aristocratic residence many few lengths in the swimming pool, and finish it with late night
800zł, 17 doubles 900 - 980zł, 4 suites 1600 - 2000zł, creating this intimate spot and your accommodation comes of the original details have been retained, to go alongside chic cocktails in their bar. Q305 rooms (304 singles €81 - 119,
4 apartments 1200 - 1300zł). PTJHARFG with embroidered bathrobes and some 200 television chan- touches such as a glass lift that zips guests to their rooms. 304 doubles €81 - 119, 1 apartment €200). Breakfast €12.
KDCW hhhh nels to veg in front of. Rooms come with their own unique Accommodation comes with bathrooms fitted with Italian POTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh
design, and names like Conrad and Bonaparte. Our favourite, marble, and sumptuous rooms filled with creature comforts.
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. 012 627 37 77, the Kwiatkowski apartment, features oil paintings, bone china A subterranean pool can be found in the cellars, while perched Rubinstein E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. 012 384 00 00, fax
fax 012 627 37 00, rez.francuski@orbis.pl, www.orbis. and soft cream fabrics. Treat yourself. Q7 rooms (3 singles on top of the hotel is a rooftop bar with views staring onto 012 384 00 01, recepcja@hotelrubinstein.com, www.
pl. The kind of place where doormen and porters wear gold 300 - 350zł, 2 doubles 410 - 460zł, 1 triple 510 - 540zł, 3 the main square. Q53 rooms (8 singles 800zł, 34 doubles hotelrubinstein.com. It’s no longer possible to refer to Kaz-
braiding on their uniforms. A grand effort, Francuski squeezes apartments 590 - 710zł). PTHARLG hhh 900zł, 4 suites 1140zł, 6 apartments 1520 - 1900zł, 1 Presi- imierz as Kraków’s upcoming district. Kazimierz has well and
classic furniture into the rather tight quarters. Beds are large dential Suite 2280zł). PTJHARFGKDCW truly arrived, and this new star is the proof. In keeping with
and all rooms feature minibars, internet access and trouser Qubus Hotel Kraków J-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. 012 hhhhh spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein come with elegant
press. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q42 374 51 00, fax 012 374 52 00, krakow@qubushotel. carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and antique details. Some
rooms (27 singles €158, 23 doubles €158, 15 apartments
€190 - 216). Breakfast €15. PTJHARGKW
com, www.qubushotel.com. A cool design includes an eye-
catching wall that juts out at an angle from the hotel’s façade. Upmarket feature restored timber ceilings, and all are treated to modern
finishes that include gleaming bathrooms, air conditioning and
hhhh Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to high standards and Art Hotel Niebieski H-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. 012 431 satellite TV. Situated right in the thick of the tourist trail, so
feature 26 inch televisions, broadband internet as well as an 18 58, fax 012 431 18 28, hotelniebieski@gmail.com, expect a host of sights right on your doorstep. Q27 rooms (4
Gródek D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. 012 431 90 30, fax 012 ironing board to help with keeping up appearances. Unsurpris- www.niebieski.com.pl. One of the top hotels in town, and singles 640zł, 18 doubles 700zł, 5 apartments 1000 - 1400zł).
378 93 15, grodek@donimirski.com, www.donimirski. ingly there’s a heavy business slant to this hotel, with five the favoured stamping ground of best selling author/historian PTHARUFGKDW hhhh
com. The honeymoon choice. Brought to you by the same conference rooms to pick from, while for after-work moments Norman Davies. Small details count, and there’s plenty at
team behind the Pugetów and Maltański, so the quality comes take timeout in the fitness centre - complete with top floor the ‘Blue Hotel’: from heated bathroom floors to high-speed Senacki C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. 012 422 76 86, fax
as no surprise. The interior, designed by Swiss studio IKRL, is swimming pool with views stretching over central Kraków. internet. Riverside location in a quiet corner of Kraków. 012 422 79 34, recepcja@senacki.krakow.pl, www.sen-
redolent of an aristocrat’s country retreat, and the individually Q194 rooms (98 singles €165, 85 doubles €180, 10 suites Q13 rooms (12 singles 340zł, 12 doubles 380zł, 1 suite acki.krakow.pl. A beautifully renovated historic building is
designed rooms come with vases of flowers, bathrobes and €215 - 230, 1 apartment €255 - 270). PTHARU 470 - 560zł). THAULGKW hhh the setting for this high-standard hotel. Well-appointed rooms
a homely look that reeks of romantic class. Adjacent to a FLGKDCW hhhh include easy colour schemes and great views of old Kraków.
Dominican convent, Gródek offers an air of complete serenity. Atrium C-1, ul. Krzywa 7, tel. 012 430 02 03, fax 012 Planted between Wawel and Old Town Square. Q20 rooms (4
Q23 rooms (21 singles 560 - 760zł, 18 doubles 590 - 800zł, 430 01 96, hotelatrium@hotelatrium.pl, www.hotela- singles €95 - 105, 13 doubles €130 - 140, 1 triple €135 - 145,
2 apartments 890 - 930zł). PTHARULGKDW Symbol key trium.com.pl. Clean, spacious rooms furnished in a subtle, 2 apartments €150 - 160). PTHAUGKW hhh
hhhh Scandinavian fashion. The well-equipped conference room
Ascot E-3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. 012 384 06 Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. 012 422 10 44, fax 012 Start H-5, ul. Kapelanka 60, tel. 012 269 22 10, fax apartment, equipped to host as many as six people. The
06, fax 012 384 06 07, rezerwacja@hotelascot.pl, 422 13 89, rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera. 012 269 04 05, rezerwacje@hotelstart.com.pl, www. customer is king here and Redbrick can provide transport to
www.ascothotel.pl. A modern front shields a sharply com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by Stanisław hotelstart.com.pl. A recent renovation to this 1980’s and from the airport, as well as shopping services so all that
designed hotel that includes reprints of classic works by Wyspianski over the staircase is the first thing to catch the block has raised the star-rating of this hotel to 2-stars you need is already sitting on the shelves upon your arrival.
Tamara Lempicka in the lobby, and free internet access eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but functional and and Start now offer clean, comfortable and very affordable Q16 rooms (16 apartments 350 - 550zł). Breakfast 25zł.
inside each room. Smartly appointed rooms come with the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You might not get all accommodation a 10-minute taxi ride away from the city THARGK
reddish carpets and bouncy beds, while the shining white new amenities, you do get 150-year-old tradition. Note that centre. TV and en-suite bathrooms throughout as well as
not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q42 rooms (7 singles
bathrooms also include hairdryers - not always a given in
Poland. Q 49 rooms (4 singles €95, 36 doubles €120, 7 380zł, 24 doubles 450zł, 7 triples 540zł, 2 quads 630zł, 2
on-site conference facilities and restaurant are available.
Q66 rooms (42 singles 180zł, 42 doubles 200zł, 14 triples Hostels & Dorms
triples €135, 2 quads €160). PTHAULGKW apartments 640zł). PTJHAKW hhh 270zł, 9 quads 320zł, 2 apartments 350zł). Breakfast 15zł. Greg & Tom D-2, ul. Pawia 12/7, tel. 012 422 41 00,
hhh THAUK hh info@gregtomhostel.com, www.gregtomhostel.com. A
Polonia D-2, ul. Basztowa 25, tel. 012 422 12 33, fax top hostel with a second location on ul. Warszawska 16/5.
Astoria E-6, ul. Józefa 24, tel. 012 432 50 10, fax 012
432 50 20, biuro@astoriahotel.pl, www.astoriahotel.pl.
012 422 16 21, rezerwacja@hotel-polonia.com.pl, www.
hotel-polonia.com.pl. Operating since 1917 this grand Apartments Both offer internet, DVD player and bike rental, as well as
hostel standards such as free laundry, kitchen and linen.
The large rooms are all air-conditioned, bright, and painted corner structure catches the eye the moment you leave the Affinity Flats B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. 012 428 Aside from a guaranteed warm welcome, the biggest boon
fresh yellow. The hotel restaurant serves Polish and interna- train station. Guests are greeted with a multi-lingual welcome 72 00, fax 012 428 72 01, info@affinityflats.com, here is a refusal to pack rooms out with as many beds as
tional dishes and is open for passers-by too. Our favourite and awesome lobby, while suites come decorated in a mock www.affinityflats.com. Over 18 apartments to choose possible, making it ideal for travelling couples. Clean, modern
detail: the huge buttons in the elevator. Q33 rooms (30 19th century style that help evoke Kraków’s golden years. from across Kraków, including a riverside location with furnishings, this is as chic as hostelling gets. Q11 rooms (6
singles 340zł, 30 doubles 420zł, 1 triple 510zł, 2 apartments Q62 rooms (10 singles 117 - 295zł, 50 doubles 155 - 360zł, views staring right onto Wawel Castle. If you’re looking for doubles 160zł, 3 quads 240zł). 29 dorm beds 50-60zł per
500zł). PTHARUGKD hhh 3 apartments 526zł). JHAKW hhh something directly in town then they’ve got flats right in person. AGW
the centre of old town, or our favourite, a series of Italian-
Benefis A-6, ul. Barska 2, tel. 012 252 07 10, fax Royal C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. 012 421 35 00, themed apartments on Karmelicka; situated inside a fully Nathan’s Villa Hostel C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 1, tel./
012 252 07 12, benef is@hotelbenef is.pl, w w w. fax 012 421 58 57, royal@holele21.pl, www.royal.com. restored 19th century townhouse, accommodation comes fax 012 422 35 45, krakow@nathansvilla.com, www.
hotelbenefis.pl. A decent deal with bright, sunny rooms pl. A prime location in Planty Park is the setting for this classic with underfloor heating in the bathrooms, wifi access, air- nathansvilla.com. Kraków’s original hostel. There’s been
that reflect the age of the hotel - brand new. Of note is the 19th century affair. Huge by Kraków standards, this hotel has conditioning and 24hr security. A modern aesthetic prevails a million copycats since, but none do it better. That’s partly
studio apartment, set at the top of the building complete a basic one star section, as well as a fully renovated two-star with the use of clever colour coordination and top-of-the- down to Nathan, a man who takes the happiness of his guests
with slanted sk ylight and separate lounge area. Q 15 section featuring spotless bathrooms and fittings. Q110 range fittings. Some great individual touches complement seriously - even if it that means drinking till dawn with them.
rooms (9 singles 280zł, 9 doubles 300zł, 6 suites 350zł). rooms (35 singles 250 - 300zł, 39 doubles 330 - 390zł, 12 the rooms, including a bay window in the Capri apartment, There’s a bit of a reputation for revelry here, and you’ll find
RUG hhh triples 450 - 510zł, 13 quads 570 - 630zł, 4 suites 460 - 570zł, and an original aga dating from 1890 in the Roma suite. the party in the basement where a network of chambers
12 apartments 650zł). TJHARUK hh Airport pickup and other tourist services also organized. house a bar, pool table and even a mini-cinema. But this is
Campanile D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. 012 424 26 00, Q18 rooms (18 apartments €75 - 200). Breakfast €6. more than just a hedonists hostel, as proved by the top-notch
fax 012 424 26 01, krakow@campanile.com.pl, www. Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. 012 269 10 00, fax 012 PTJHARGKW hhhh conditions of dorms and bathrooms. Capacity is constantly
campanile.com.pl. The bright rooms come decorated in the 269 20 30, ruczaj@ruczajhotel.com.pl, www.ruczajhotel. increasing here, and more ensuite privates have been added
Campanile flagship colours of cream and green, and feature com.pl. Set in a new but classically stylish building in a resi- Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel./fax to cater for the higher-class of backpacker. And best of all,
satellite TV and bathtubs. Ask for one of the top-floor quarters dential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely hotel for those willing to taxi 012 431 00 26, info@apartmentskrakow.eu, www. with summer in swing, there’s barbecues each night, with the
that overlook the surrounding Planty Park. Q106 rooms into town. All rooms boast unique balconies and furnishings apartmentskrakow.eu. Several locations around the historic proceedings overseen by none other than The Sausage Man.
(105 singles 339zł, 105 doubles 339zł, 1 apartment 520zł). with an individual touch. Q45 rooms (8 singles 220zł, 17 centre - including Floriańska and Grodzka - with accommoda- Q21 rooms (4 singles 160 - 180zł, 4 doubles 160 - 180zł).
Breakfast 29zł. PTJHARUGKW hh doubles 300zł, 12 triples 380zł, 4 quads 460zł, 4 apartments tion fitting upto six people. All apartments come with fully 118 dorm beds 50-65zł per person. JAGW
410zł). PTYHAUGKDW hhh fitted kitchens, cable TV and internet access, and rooms
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. 012 299 come with a pleasant modern aesthetic. Airport pick-up can The Secret Garden Hostel & Pension D-7, ul.
00 00, fax 012 299 00 01, info@chopinhotel.pl, www. System PREMIUM J-1, Al. 29 listopada 189, tel. 012 614 also be arranged. Q18 rooms (18 apartments 220 - 440zł). Skawińska 7, tel./fax 012 430 54 45, info@thesecret-
chopinhotel.com. A modern building offering clean-cut, 48 00, fax 012 634 05 08, premium.krk@hotelsystem.pl, Breakfast 20zł. TJALGW garden.pl, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Gone are the days
functional accommodation and a western attitude to service. www.hotelsystem.pl. A high-standard modern hotel featuring when budget lodgers would cramp into off-season student
Free wireless internet access for guests, as well as regular that great rarity in Kraków - a good swimming pool. That aside, Kraków City Apartments D-2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel./ dorms or take their chances in seedy hotels. The Secret
promotions to keep an eye out for. Recent renovations have guests can expect comfortable rooms fitted with neutral colour fax 012 431 00 41, info@krakowapartments.info, www. Garden is part of a new wave of low-cost options, and it’s
seen all the rooms upgraded. Q220 rooms (119 singles schemes, safe and cable TV. In an added bonus, each room krakowapartments.info. An old town location, though ac- also one of the best. Certainly it’s colourful, first impressions
€90 - 102, 119 doubles €102 - 112, 1 apartment €145). comes complete with its own PC and free internet access. Q162 commodation comes overlooking a courtyard, guaranteeing a will leave you asking just how many tins of paint were used in
PTHARUFLGKW hhh rooms (29 singles 229zł, 131 doubles 229zł, 2 apartments 329zł). good nights rest. Lift access means there’s no lugging bags creating this project. Quarters come with names that leave
Breakfast 33zł. THARUFGKDCW up stairs, and apartments come with modern furnishings, you in no doubt what colours to expect on opening the door:
Ibis Kraków Centrum A-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. 012 living room and kitchen. Most can handle four guests, with from Clockwork Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint Sorbet. Dorms
299 33 00, fax 012 299 33 33, h3710@accor.com, Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. 012 424 13 00, fax one apartment sleeping up to seven guests. Q8 rooms (8 come with comfortable pine bunks, while private rooms are
www.ibishotel.com. You know what to expect with the Ibis 012 424 13 33, hotel@hotelwawel.pl, www.hotelwawel. apartments 200 - 640zł). Breakfast 20zł. TARLG neat, simple efforts, with the addition of wrough iron furnish-
brand. While not an adventurous choice the guys behind the pl. Sweeping renovations have seen the Wawel transformed ings and coluorful bed spreads. The common room is blissful
French chain show an unflagging commitment to maintaining into one of top mid-range options in the city. Set inside a Old Town Apartments B-3, ul. Gołębia 2/3b, tel. 012 violet with low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the test,
international standards and high-grade service. Spotless historic townhouse, the 19th century building still has several 421 42 01, fax 012 430 07 43, krakow@bookaa.net, while elsewhere this pension stroke hostel boasts laundry
furnishings and a central location add to the appeal and secessionist touches, as well as a courtyard which will have www.warsawshotel.com. Warsaw-based agency renting services, free internet access and a garden for barbecues.
rooms have recently been fully renovated. Q175 rooms you wishing it was summer all year round. The huge rooms fully equipped apartments in Cracow’s Old Town. Everything Q18 rooms (11 singles 90zł, 11 doubles 140zł, 4 triples
(175 singles 269 - 299zł, 175 doubles 269 - 299zł). Breakfast come decorated with patterned duvets and beige and wood from efficient studios to 180m2 4-bedroom apartments 180zł). 14 dorm beds 50-55zł per person. TAUGW
29zł. PTJA6ULGKW hh finishes. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q39 convenient for 10 guests. Cheaper rates for longer stays.
Q63 rooms (63 apartments €50 - 200). Breakfast €5.
Maltański B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. 012 431
rooms (36 singles 330 - 380zł, 27 doubles 460zł, 3 apart-
ments 520 - 580zł). PJHALKDW hhh TA6GW Out of town
00 10, fax 012 378 93 12, maltanski@donimirski. Orient ul. Sołtysowska 25a (Czyżyny), tel. 012 646
Redbrick D-1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. 012 628 66 00, fax 012
com, www.donimirski.com. Enter the lobby, replete with
chequered tiles and fireplace, and you’ll get a preview of the Budget 430 19 19, rezerwacja@redbrick.pl, www.redbrick.pl.
91 00, fax 012 646 92 02, rezerwacja@hotelorient.pl,
www.hotelorient.pl. This brand new brick and aquamarine
class that lies behind the façade. Rooms come with fluffy Basztowa Guestrooms D-2, ul. Basztowa 24, tel. 012 Named after the renovated 19th century red brick building hotel has managed, impressively, to meld top-notch business
robes on the beds, cream colour schemes and classic furnish- 429 51 81, fax 012 422 16 21, basztowa@room.krakow. that houses this magnificent set of apartments. These are facilities with unique style. All the amenities you could ask for
ings. Business service on offer include conference facilities, pl, www.hotelsinkrakow.pl. Neat rooms feature parquet superb lodgings and inspite of the historical surrounds ac- in addition to original artwork in all the rooms, and rooms for
translation services and organizing temporary office space. floors and a classic design accentuated by the use of dark commodation touts all the trappings of the modern world; the disabled. Travel to town with taxis from the stand outside
Q16 rooms (16 singles 390 - 480zł, 14 doubles 420 - 510zł). woods and oil paintings. Q24 rooms (22 singles 195zł, 22 from 32 inch televisions to fully fitted modern kitchens. Those the hotel. Q58 rooms (56 singles 360zł, 56 doubles 420zł, 3
THARULGK hhh doubles 195zł, 2 triples 260zł). Breakfast 18zł. JA looking to splash out should consider booking the two level suites 550zł). PTHARUFLKDC hhhh
With the development of the market in Krakow, the La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. 012 422 65 64, Milk & Co B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17 (Radisson SAS
number and choice of places to eat has become pretty www.bblafontaine.com. The decent courtyard terrace is Hotel), tel. 012 618 88 55, www.radissonsas.com. No thank you
wide. That doesn’t mean to say that it is all good. Ethnic the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, where good French Two things bring us back to Milk & Co time and time again:
cuisines are generalised brutalised in an attempt to make food is served by well-trained staff who actually appear to the first is the lunchtime buffet, a bargian at 69zł give that Polish restaurant tipping etiquette can be confusing for
them acceptable to Polish palates. The figures we quote in enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly, as he turns you get to choose from some superb food and that you can foreigners. While in other civilised countries it’s normal
brackets are the cheapest and dearest main courses on out classics such as medallions of veal with chanterelle always bank on meeting a familiar face tucking inot his or her to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, you’ll
the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by the mushrooms, or fresh foie gras with port and armagnac. The smoked salmon. Secondly, the Surf & Turf extravaganza on be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word
restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can set tasting menus are good value at 65zł. QOpen 12:00 - Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights ‘dziękuje’ (thank you), or even thank you in English, is the
expect the chef to be working. 23:00. (39-54zł). PTAUBX is - at 120zł - Krakow’s best kept secret. Enjoy giant praws sign that you won’t be wanting any change back. This
alongside tender juicy steaks and ribs and to hell with the cultural slip-up can get very expensive. We have heard
instances of a customer leaving a 200zł note for an 80zł
American Fusion calories. No wonder reservations are essential. And no, the
fish in the tanks are not part of the buffet.Q Open 06:30 meal and then having to chase down the cheeky wait-
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. 012 633 65 20, www. - 10:30, 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (23-88zł). ress to ask for the change. And while this is an extreme
Kraków), tel. 012 662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/ karmelicka52.com. A completely un-Krakowian effort with a PTAUEGSW case, this happens far more often that you’d expect.
krakow. Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than futuristic design that relies on clever lighting, a spacious set up and To put things into context, even though salaries have
a hotel restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as a slick atmosphere more commonly associated with the lounge Pod Różą (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriańska 14 risen for wait staff in the last couple of years thanks to
a one-way ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown bars of the capital. By day the menu is as adventurous as any you’ll (Pod Różą Hotel), tel. 012 424 33 81, www.hotel.com. a severe lack of supply, a typical waiter/waitress would
of Uncle Sam’s favourites with meals regularly concluding come across in Kraków with asian styled fusion offerings picked at pl. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under a be receiving around 10-15zł per hour. The waitress above
with deft beneath-the-table manoeuvres to loosen the by a chic crowd. The darker it gets the more this place melts into a glass-covered atrium in the Pod Różą hotel. A piano sits assumed that the client wanted to leave a whole day’s
belt. As the rock memorabilia and diner décor suggests, pre-club spot, with Bambi girls sipping expert cocktails. QOpen on a raised platform, and higher up there’s a balcony with salary. Nice work if you can get it.
this place doesn’t take itself as seriously as most hotel 11:00 - 22:00. (18-50zł). PTAUBXSW tables overlooking the main floor. The menu features a What’s more, the waiter will do his or her best to a) make
eateries, and the results are evident in some seriously lively veritable list of birds and forest animals, including a rather you feel deeply embarrassed if you try to get anything
back b) conveniently disappear having pocketed your
nights; plasma screens relay all the big fixtures, while live
bands frequently encourage the visiting business droids Hungarian tasty dead bambi. Prices are high for Krakow, but then
so are the standards. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (69-89zł). change or c) play the fool and suggest that it is your
to lose both ties and inhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Deli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. 012 430 64 04, www. PTJAESW fault. We suggest that you only say thank you if you are
Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (28-80zł). delibar.pl. A bright modern eatery whose orange walls come happy for the wait staff to keep the change. Otherwise
PTAUBXS decorated with blow-up photos of paprika and goulash. It Pod Winogronami C-3, ul. Św. Jana 1, tel. 012 we advise you to use the word ‘proszę’ only when handing
doesn’t take a brainbox to work out what’s the order of the 374 13 10, www.podwinogronami.pl. There are fine back the bill and the payment. One final tip and this is to
demonstrate we are not completely anti wait staff. If you
Bagels day here, this place is Hungarian through and through, and
you’ll find a stack of red hot, spicy dishes on the list here.
restaurants in Kraków, and then there is this place.
Located in the gorgeous Pałac Bonerowski hotel, this add a tip to your credit card payment the wait-staff have
Bagelmama D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. 012 431 19 And it’s not just the bloodthirsty who’re catered for here, non- is a classy dining room that makes the prefect location to pay tax on it. Anything that you give in cash probably
42, www.bagelmama.com. It’s hard to call Bagelmama a carnivores get a fair choice of fish, salads and soups to test. for romantic evenings out, business lunches or sheer isn’t declared. So if you do receive good service we urge
restaurant, this is after all essentially no more than an open Best of all, the price to quality ratio is positively off-the-scale. culinary pleasure-fests. Try to get here at the weekend: you to reward it and to make a tip in the form of cash.
kitchen with a couple of tables thrown in on the customer QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (8-25zł). TGBS from Thursday to Sunday there is a special fish menu,
side. Your reason for dropping in are the best bagels in Po- which - despite all apperances and assumptions - is
The Olive A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków
land, served up by the American exile Nava, a man whose
fans include John McEnroe. Cinnamon, poppy seed and garlic International incredibly well priced. Sea bass with artichokes a crack-
ing treat at 49zł. Q Open 17:00 - 23:00. (29-89zł). Hotel), tel. 012 662 16 80, w w w.sheraton.com/
bagels come with toppings that range from tuna to curry, and A1 B-3, ul. Św. Anny 6, tel. 012 421 01 44. Situated within PTAUBXSW krakow. Top class Mediterranean dishes served inside
there’s also an expanded menu featuring extras like tortilla dancing distance of the Rynek this newbie was literally just the imperial environs of the Sheraton. The glass roof
wraps, salads and burritos. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed opening their doors as we hit the printing press, and all we San Sebastian Café D-5, ul. Św. Sebastiana 25, makes it possible to dine under the stars while the foliage
Mon. (6-15zł). GS can say so far is they’ll be offering up a mix of Mediterranean tel. 012 429 24 76, www.sansebastian.pl. Impresses dotted around adds to the al fresco atmosphere. The
dishes and sushi. Full review on it’s way.QOpen 12:00 - each time we visit, and definitely one of the best meals in best ingredients money can buy are complemented by
French 24:00. (25-89zł). PTAEBXSW Kraków. A clean wooden décor and dusky lighting make it
a good venue to enjoy a glass of wine in their café section,
graceful service and some superb live piano. Fine dining
at its best. Q Open 06:30 -10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00
Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sławkowska 26, tel. 012 Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel), tel. before moving onto their dining room to check out their - 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30,
411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl. No foolhardy 012 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.pl. Classy Mediterranean menu. The service is fun and flirty, and Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 17:00, 18:00 - 22:30. (47-
attempts at foreign cuisine here, just top class food in a top staff serve Polish classics taken to new heights in sumptuous though the portions can verge on scanty the meals are 89zł). PTAUEXW
class atmosphere. Kraków’s finest French restaurant is a surroundings. In other words, a treat. Try the classic żurek generally highly commended - try the beef fillet in mushroom
magnificent white tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and soup - we do not think we have ever tatsed better - before sauce. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (21-70zł). The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel.
famed throughout the city for scores of dishes including an moving on to the superb roast pork with fried sauerkraut and PTABSW 012 431 03 33, w w w.thepianorouge.com. A sen-
exceptional foie gras and the occasional experimental hit. Set potato puree: you will wonder how such simple flavours can sor y deligh t wi th crimson flourish es, feath er y b oas
against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries and located be so rich. But that is the whole point of Amadeus: simplicity Senacka C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, (Senacki Hotel), tel. 012 and gil t picture frames providin g an air of Parisien
in a classic medieval cellar, if you’re going to push the boat and class win over every time. Recommended most heartedly. 421 11 61, www.senacki.krakow.pl. Situated in the hotel de caden ce. A pri vate memb ers area and a pair of
out while you’re in town, there are few better places to push QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-99zł). PTYAUEX of the same name this restaurant comes complete with black-sui ted door police add an air of exclusi vi t y while
it than here, and that’s a fact recognized by none other than chandeliers and timber-beamed ceilings, while the kitchen th e li ve jaz z music played in th e back ground is wor th
the Michelin Guide. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (44- Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16. An attractive modern space staff demonstrate an unflagging commitment to excellence. th e visi t alone. Th e menu is high-end European, and
80zł). TAREBXS that has created plenty of ripples with a drinks menu that is The menu alternates between Polish and international stan- brough t to you by a busy team of wai tresses dressing
second to none - 100 vodkas says it all. But it’s not just about dards, and never fails. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-60zł). in evenin g wear. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. (25-78zł).
drinking, and there’s a menu to peruse that includes a decent PTAUBSW PAEBXW
spread of salad, grilled salmon and even fried ice cream. This
Symbol key place could well prove to be the hit of the summer. QOpen Szara (Grey) C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. 012 421
Italian
11:00 - 24:00. (17-38zł). PAXSW 66 69, www.szara.pl. An important looking restaurant
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted which seems to draw most tourists at least once during Al Dente E-6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. 012 430 04 18, www.
Cul-De-Sac D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4 (Gródek Hotel), tel. their stay. Vaulted ceilings, crisp linen and an atmosphere aldente-krakow.com. A light and airy room with a cream
E Live music S Take away 012 431 20 41, www.donimirski.com. Occupying a space of complete elegance make it a great venue for your and modern look. This is where the local sophisticates
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled inside the Hotel Gródek Cul de Sac is the definitive dining ex- special ‘last night meal’, and the food rarel y disap- have been seen heading, drawn no doubt by Sardinian
perience. The menu is short and concise, and features beauti- points. Choose from dishes like salmon in teriyaki sauce cuisine prepared by the imported chef. Authenticity is
J Old Town location 6 Animal friendly fully presented delicacies like veal cutlets served with mint. A in what has come to be known as one of the hotspots topped off by the ingredients, most of which come shipped
W Wi-Fi Kraków highlight and defnitely a place for romancing.QOpen of Kraków’s culinary stage. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (37- direct from I tal y. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (18-46zł).
12:00 - 23:00. (56-79zł). PTJAUGBSW 79zł). PTAUBSW PTAUBSW
Aloha Café D-6, ul. Miodowa 28a, tel. 012 421 25 89, QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAUE
www.alohacafe.pl. Kraków’s only Hawaiian pub features a
drinks list with David Hasselhoff on the front, seashells under QUBE A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel), tel.
glass flooring and walls adorned with photos of palm lined 012 662 16 74, www.sheraton.com.pl/krakow. Beautiful
beaches. This is as wacky as drinking in Kraków gets, and waitresses glide around delivering cocktails fixed by expert
best of all they plan on installing telephones on each table - bar staff. Found inside the Sheraton’s showpiece atrium,
meaning you get the chance to call that tasty girl winking at
you. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. AW
QUBE’s claim to fame is over 200 brands of vodka, as well
as a genius resident pianist. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PAUEW
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Hotel), tel. 012 662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/krakow.
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Nowa Huta
Kraków gets real
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of the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit al. Krasińskiego A-4/5 Gołębia B-3 Michałowskiego A-1/2 Powroźnicza A-6 Św. Filipa C/D-1
Stwosz), and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the Asnyka B-1/2 Grabowskiego A-1 Mikołajska C/D-3 Pułaskiego A-6/7 Św. Gertrudy C/D-4/5
Augustiańska D-6-7 Grodzka C-3/5 Miodowa D/E-5/6 Radziwiłłowska E-2/3 Św. Idziego C-5
apostles. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings
Bałuckiego A-6 Grzegórzecka E-4 Monte Cassino A-7 Rajska A-2 Św. Jana C-2/3
by Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański. Elsewhere around
Barska A/B-6/7 Izaaka D/E-6 Mostowa D/E-7 Reformacka A/B-2 Św. Katarzyny D-6/7
the old town don’t miss the opportunity one of only five Da
Bartosza E-6 Jagiellońska B-2/3 Na Gródku D-3 Retoryka A-4 Św. Krzyża D-3
Vinci paintings on display in the world – find his Lady with
Basztowa C/D-2 Jakuba E-6 Na Przejściu E-6 Różana A-6 Św. Marka C/D-2/3
an Ermine on display at the Czartoryski Museum (D-2,
Berka Joselewicza E-5 Józefa D/E-6 Ogrodowa D-1 Rynek Dębnicki A-6 Św. Sebastiana C/E-5
ul. Św. Jana 19). Bernardyńska B/C-5/6 Kanonicza C-4/5 Orzeszkowej C-6/7 Rynek Główny C-3 Św. Stanisława C-7
Biskupia B-1 Kapucyńska A/B-3 Paderewskiego C/D-1 Rynek Kleparski C/D-1 Św. Tomasza B/D-2/3
Be sure to walk what is known as the Royal Road: starting Bonerowska E-4 Karmelicka A/B-1/2 Paulińska C-6/7 Rzeszowska E-6 Św. Wawrzyńca D/E-6/7
at (D-2) Floriańska Gate make your way past the Sukiennice Bonifraterska D-7 Kilińskiego A-7 Pawia D-1/2 Sandomierska A/B-6 Szczepańska B/C-2/3
and St Mary’s Cathedral in the town square, and down (C-4) Bosacka E-1/2 Kochanowskiego A-1/2 Piekarska C/D-7 Sarego C/D-4/5 Szeroka E-6
ul. Grodzka where you will pass the church of (C-4) St Peter Bożego Ciała D-6/7 Koletek C-6 Pijarska C/D-2 Senacka C-4 Szewska B-2/3
and Paul. The walk concludes at (B/C-5) Wawel Castle: the Bracka C-3/4 Kołłątaja E-3 Piłsudskiego A/B-3/4 Siedleckiego E-4/5 Szpitalna C/D-2/3
defining landmark of the city, and in itself worthy of several Brzozowa D-5 Konfederacka A-7 pl. Bawół E-6 Siemiradzkiego A-1 Tenczyńska B-4
hours of exploration. For Poles this castle and cathedral Bułhaka A-7 Konopnickiej A/B-5/7 pl. Bernardyński C-5 Sienna C-3/4 Trynitarska D/E-7
complex is a symbol of national strength and patriotism; Ciemna E-6 Kopernika D/E-3 pl. Biskupi B/C-1 Skałeczna C/D-7 Warszauera D/E-6
the ancient home of kings, and the material embodiment of Cybulskiego A-3 Krakowska D-6/7 pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3 Skawińska C/D-7 Warszawska D-1
Polish resistance and culture. It has certainly survived the Czapskich A-3 Kremerowska A-1 pl. Kossaka A-5 Skłodowskiej-Curie D/E-3 Wasilewskiego A-7
vicissitudes of time - for instance, the castle came within Czysta A-2 Krótka C-1 pl. Mariacki C-3 Skwerowa A-7 Wąska E-6
a whisker of being flattened by the retreating Nazi’s. For Dajwór E-6 Krowoderska C-1 pl. Matejki D-1/2 Sławkowska C-2/3 Węglowa D-7
foreign visitors Wawel is an unforgettable journey through Dębowa A-7 Krupnicza A/B-2/3 pl. Na Groblach B-4/5 Smocza B-6 Wenecja A-3
the history of Poland. Perched on top of a 50m-high rock Dietla C/E-4/6 Krzywa C-1 pl. Nowy D-6 Smoleńsk A/B-4 Westerplatte D-2/3
on the edge of old town, it is today remarkably intact and Długa C-1 ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7 pl. Słowiański C-1 Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1 Wiślna B-3
accessible to visitors, though in an effort to preserve the Dolnych Młynów A-2 Kupa E-6 pl. Św. Ducha D-2 Sołtyka E-3/4 Worcela D-2
exhibits only a limited number of visitors are allowed to Dominikańska C-4 Kurniki D-1 pl. Św. Marii Magdaleny C-4 Spasowskiego A/B-1 Wrzesińska E-4
enter each day. Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6 Lewkowa E-6 pl. Szczepański B-2 Starowiślna D/E-4/6 Wygoda A-4
Untouched by the fiery fate shared by most Polish cities at Dunajewskiego B/C-2 Łobzowska B-1/2 pl. Wolnica D-7 Stefana Batorego A/B-1 Zacisze D-1/2
the end of WWII Kraków’s historic centre has largely survived Further on is (D/E-6) Kazimierz, the district that housed Estery D-6 Loretańska A-2/3 pl. Wszytkich Świętych C-4 Stolarska C-3/4 Zamenhofa D/E-2
in its original form, and today ranks as one of Europe’s great Krakow’s Jews for some 500 years. In the last decade it Feldmana A-1 Lubicz D/E-2 Podbrzezie D-5/6 Stradomska C/D-5/6 Zamkowa A-6
unspoiled cities. The old town has done well to survive the has been rediscovered, and its hollowed-out Jewish culture Felicjanek A-4 Madalińskiego A-6 Podgórska E-7 Strzelecka E-2 Zegadłowicza A-4
Floriańska C/D-2/3 Mała A-4 Podwale B-2/3 Studencka A/B-3 Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5
vicissitudes of time, from great fires to Tartar invasions. Most gradually reintroduced. Famous for its associations with
Franciszkańska B/C-4 Mały Rynek C-3 Podzamcze B/C-5 Sukiennicza C-6 Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4
recently the post-war construction of Nowa Huta threatened Schindler and Spielberg, there’s more to the historic Jewish
Garbarska B-2 Meiselsa D-6 Poselska B/C-4 Św. Agnieszki C-6
to cast a polluted shroud over the old town, with drifting quarter than cemeteries and synagogues. Lying between
Gazowa E-7 Metalowców E-3/4 Powiśle A/B-5 Św. Anny B-3
industrial winds blackening the buildings of the old town and shops selling buttons and spanners, you’ll find the heart
destroying the gold covered dome of Wawel’s St Sigismund’s of Krakow’s edgy, artistic character. Peeling façades and
Chapel. The decline of Nowa Huta’s economic importance, wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky cafes, each one
and over two decades of meticulous restoration work, has effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. This is an area of City Tours
seen Kraków return to its full splendor and its chocolate Krakow that cannot be missed. Crossing the river will take
box old town is a must on any international itinerary. Today you across to the Podgórze district, the site of the former Kraków is a city that needs little promotion. Millions of a trip to the Auschwitz-
Krakow’s dusty courtyards and web of streets are home to Jewish Ghetto. Today fragments of the Ghetto wall can be visitors have discovered that it is a wonderful place Birkenau Museum and
some 2.3 million registered artworks, and some of the most viewed, as can the sight of Oskar Schindler’s factory (K-4, to visit, no matter if you are looking to sightsee, take a memorial site starts
significant historical sites in the country. ul. Lipowa 4). Penetrate Kraków’s suburbs even deeper and romantic break or have a party weekend. from €34. You can also
you’ll discover the disused quarry that was formerly home visit both these places
The main market square (C-3 Rynek) serves as Kraków’s to the Nazi Plaszów Labour Camp, and the fearsome Nowa If you are interested in sightseeing in Kraków, check our during the Oświęcim &
gravitational centre, and is the natural start and finish point Huta conurbation – one of only two Socialist Realist cities wide range of guided tours (including walking, coach or Wieliczka tour (from €53).
for any tour of the city. Originally designed in 1257 - the year to be built. limousine tours), all lead by a local expert. Kraków City Częstochowa is a bit
Kraków was awarded its charter - the gridlike layout of the Walk is a perfect introduction to explore the old town further, but certainly worth
old town and its central square has changed little in the years You’ll find more about Krakow’s sights, fully up to date prices with its famous Market Square and Wawel Hill for prices a visit to see its imposing monastery with the miraculous
that have followed. Measuring 200 x 200m, the Rynek ranks and opening hours in the full print edition of Krakow In Your starting from €8 per person. A longer alternative with a icon of the Black Madonna. The price of this tour starts
as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and comes Pocket as well as detailed information about Auschwitz, wider programme is Kraków Coach Tour, taking 3 hours from €49. We offer also a wide range of other tours such
suitably stuffed with sites, stories and curiosities. Through Nowa Huta, Wieliczka Salt Mines and Zakopane. Guides can for €32-34 when you will visit all the major attractions of as Warsaw Excursion tour, Wooden Churches of
the centuries it was in the square that homages to the king be picked up by asking your concierge. Kraków, such as St Mary’s Church, the Cloth Hall, Royal southern Poland tour, John Paul II tour, Into the Gypsy
were sworn and public executions held. Most famously it was Residence and Wawel Cathedral as well as Kazimierz, World tour, Jewish Galicia tour, Zakopane & Tatra tour,
here that Tadeusz Kościuszko roused the locals to revolt the former Jewish district. For those interested in Jewish and tours of the Tatra Mountains (Romantic Mountains
against foreign rule in 1794. Taking centre stage in the Rynek culture there is The Traces of Jewish Culture tour which tour) and Dunajec River Gorge (Dunajec River Raft Trip).
is the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice). Built in the 14th century this includes Kazimierz, Płaszów, the former Nazi Concentration Prices are available on request for all of these tours.
huge hall was effectively the first shopping mall in the world Camp, and also the places Steven Spielberg used during
- to this day it is still crammed with hawkers and stalls selling filming for “Schindler’s List”. The price starts from €22. Kraków is included in our all-inclusive escorted tours
amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat. Destroyed We offer also themed tours: Legendary Kraków, a such as the 7-day Poland in One Go tour, the 12-day
by fire in the 16th century it was rebuilt in 1555 using the programme designed especially for children (prices from Grand Tour of Poland or the Jewish Heritage Tour.
renaissance signature of Italian architect Giovanni il Mosca. €8), and Crazy Communism Tour, a trip that focuses on Also note that we offer 3 Central European Tours, namely
Alterations have continued ever since, including the addition the traces of Communist heritage in Kraków (prices on Western Miracles, Eastern Miracles and Magic Triangle.
of neo-Gothic arcades in the 19th century. request).
If you have any individual enquiries or specific interests
Soaring into the sky is the majestic St Mary’s Basilica. It There are also several interesting places in the surrounding concerning your visit please ask our staff which is
doesn’t matter how many times you see it, the altarpiece, region. Firstly there is Wieliczka with its incredible, ancient experienced in creating customised travel arrangements
stained glass windows of the nave, and blue, starred ceiling salt mine and a UNESCO Heritage Site with tours starting in Kraków and other Polish cities.
of this cathedral will take your breath away. The magnificent from €32. Many visitors are interested in Auschwitz and Contact us at iyp@staypoland.com.
altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the principal work