Discovering the Wines of Croatia

WINE GROWING REGIONS OF CROATIA Croatia is a country in central Europe that borders the Adriatic Sea to the west, Slovenia to north, Hungary to the northeast, Serbia and Montenegro to the east, with BosniaHerzegovina partially situated between the northern and southern branches of Croatias somewhat angular-shaped territory. Croatia has a population of nearly 4.5 million inhabitants, and a total geographical area of 56,542 sq km (21,831 sq miles or 5,654,200 hectares). Of that area, registered and unregistered vineyards comprise roughly 35,000 hectares or less than 1% of the territory of the entire country, 1.5% of all the farmable land in Croatia, and .38% of the worlds total vineyard area. Registered vineyards (vineyards that commercially produce wine) total 16,500 hectares. There are two main wine-growing regions in Croatia: Continental Croatia and Coastal Croatia.

CONTINENTAL CROATIA Continental Croatia encompasses a diverse range of territory stretching north-west to south-east along the Drava River to the north, the river Sava to the south, and the Danube to the east. Its neighbors include Hungary to the north, Bosnia-Herzegovina to the south, Serbia to the east, and Slovenia to the west/northwest. The region is also home to Croatias capital city, Zagreb. Continental Croatia is best known for two of its sub-regions: Slavonia, an area of rolling farmland that is considered the breadbasket of Croatia; and ZagorjeMeimurje, a historical and picturesque pastoral area north of Zagreb, and one of the oldest wineproducing regions in the country. Continental Croatia is comprised of seven wine-growing sub-regions. Within the 7 subregions of Continental Croatia are 35 viticultural areas called "wine-growing hills" (vinogorje). These wine-growing hills consist of mostly small clusters of vineyard areas.

Geography The geography of the continental region features rolling hills and small mountains that dip down to fertile, lush valleys of farmland, fields and forests, with the vineyards typically situated in the foothills and on the upper slopes. Other than a few large plantations in Slavonia and ZagorjeMeimurje, the wine-growing hills are comprised of a patchwork of small, family-owned vineyard parcels. The soil in the region is primarily alluvial, with a diverse mixture of clays, other organic matter and schist. Poorer soil areas on the upper slopes of the hills, such as in the Kutjevo and Pleivica wine-growing hills, are where some of the top vineyards in the region are located. Climate The overall climate in the region is continental, with cold winters and hot, often humid summers. Generally speaking, the climate in the eastern portions of the continental region (Slavonia and Podunavlje) is warmer and more humid, which results in earlier ripening of grapes and riper styles of wine than is some of the western and northern areas.

Wines Continental Croatia is white wine country, with 90% of plantings comprised of white or blush-colored grapes. The most widely-planted grape is Graevina (Welschriesling), which yields a wildly popular, food-friendly wine that is produced in a number of different styles, from dry, high acid food-friendly wines all the way to sweet and aromatic dessert wines. Other Domesticated and International White Varieties that are planted in the region to various degrees of success include Chardonnay, Gewrztraminer, Kerner, Mller-Thurgau (aka: Rizvanac), Muscat de Frontignan, Muscat Ottonel, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Roter Traminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and Sylvaner. The region is home to a number of interesting indigenous cultivars all of which are white varieties: Diea Ranina, Moslavac, Plavec uti (no relation to Plavac Mali from the Coastal region), and krlet. While red wines are produced in the region, they make up a small percentage (10%) of the total production. There are no red grapes indigenous to the region. However, the region does produce some very interesting red wines from a number of Domesticated and International Red Varieties, including Blaufrankisch, Gamay, Kadarka, Pinot Noir, Portugieser, and Zweigelt. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are also sporadically found in the region, although wines from these grapes are not always successful, as the region is often too cool and wet for successful ripening (although Vladimir Krauthaker has achieved some recent success with Merlot in the Kutjevo area of Slavonia, and Cabernet Sauvignon has recently shown some impressive potential in the Podunavlje sub-region). Continental Croatia also supplies the winemaking world with Slavonian oak for barrels.

Vineyards of the Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Croatia (photo by Cliff Rames)

COASTAL CROATIA Coastal Croatia is so named because the country lies on the Adriatic Sea, which forms its southern, southwest and western borders. Italy lies to the northwest, Slovenia to the north, Bosnia-Herzegovina to the northeast, and Montenegro borders its southern-most tip. Coastal Croatia is comprised of five wine-growing sub-regions. Within the 5 sub-regions of Coastal Croatia are 31 viticultural areas called "wine-growing hills" (vinogorje). These winegrowing hills consist of mostly small clusters of vineyard areas, usually along the southsouth-west facing slopes of the coast.

Geography Visitors to Coastal Croatia will often find themselves forever enamored and profoundly impressed by two distinguishing physical features of the coastal region: the vivid blue color of the Adriatic Sea, and the 1,100+ islands (of which only 66 are occupied!) that lie like discarded oyster shells all along the coastline. Most importantly, many of Croatias greatest vineyards are found on the precipitous slopes of the sun-baked, wild herbscented, limestone karst and scrub-speckled islands and peninsulas of the coastal region. The soil is poor, mixed with limestone rocks and marine-life shells, and is sometimes brownish-red to terra rosa in color from iron-oxidation. The Peljesac Peninsula The narrow Peljesac, perhaps 5 miles (8km) wide and 40 miles (72km) long, juts off the Dalmatian coast just north of Dubrovnik. On the mountainous south-facing coast are the wine regions of Dingac and Postup, made up of just 168 acres of vineyards laid out in terraces on the 20-34 slopes leading down to the Adriatic. The Peljesac is known for having the highest annual average temperatures in Croatia, and this, with the Mediterranean climate - long, hot and dry summers, with mild, short and windy winters - produces wines rich in extract and alcohol. The climatic conditions and the pristine ecology of the coastline

make spraying the vines unnecessary. The soil is rocky and well drained, and the lack of water on the hillsides will often cause the grapes to raisin slightly on the vine. The landscape is dotted with fig and olive trees, scrub, and wild herbs whose aromas float on the air. Climate The overall climate in the region is Mediterranean, with mild, rainy winters and very hot and dry summers. Wines Istria and the Northern Coast is where crisp and aromatic white wines are made. Istrian Malvasia deserves special attention as it is possibly the best dry Malvasia you will find anywhere. Istrian Peninsula provides the ideal terroir for Malvasia grape and Yellow Muskat (Muscat Blanc a Petit Grains). The main local red is Teran (related to Italian Refosko), the wild and acidic variety, which shows best when blended with Merlot or Cabernet. Southern Dalmatia is centered around the Peljesac Peninsula and its protected appellation called Dingac, just an hour drive north of the City of Dubrovnik. Plavac Mali grape is king here. Plavac Mali also thrives on the neighboring Island of Hvar, and Makarska Riviera (near Split) is becoming famous for producing Croatian Zinfandel (locally known as Crljenak Kastelanski). The best white wine of Southern Dalmatia is made from Posip a local grape variety producing full body, sunny and mouthwatering wine to accompany the just-caught seafood of the Adriatic. Island of Korcula, the birth place of Marko Polo, is known for producing the best Posip wines.

Vineyards leading down to the sea, Dingac, Peljesac, Croatia (photo by Cliff Rames)

The Croatian Wine-Making Tradition 2200 BC Illyric tribes started making wine in Dalmatia. 390 BC The winegrowing tradition is developed during Greek colonization. 339 BC Dalmatia becomes part of the Roman Empire and wine becomes part of the Dalmatian lifestyle. 4th century AD Recognition of Christianity. The Church develops its expertise in winemaking. 1400 The first laws on wine production and quality control are written in Dubrovnik Republic. 1797 Before the fall of the Venetian Republic, production of wine in Dalmatia reaches 21 million gallons per year. 1870 Phylloxera destroys vineyards in France and Italy. Both countries begin to import Dalmatian wines. 1875 1900 Croatia produces 26 million gallons of wine per year. 1920 1940 Wine production reduced to 18 million gallons per year after Austro-Hungarian Empire begins importing Italian wine. 1945 Beginning of Communist regime; collectivization of land destroys the wine industry. 1991 Croatia becomes independent; new market economy stimulates tremendous growth of private sector and quality over quantity in winemaking. 1997 Croatian wine makers produce 620 different kinds of wine from 54 grape varieties. 2008 According to the Croatian Institute of Viticulture and Enology, there are approximately 17,000 registered producers of wine in Croatia. Of this number, approximately 760 producers produce wines with Protected Geographic Origin status, representing about 2,380 different labels. 2009 Wines of Croatia is founded.

PRIMARY WINE-MAKING GRAPES OF CROATIA The BIG THREE (main varieties by hectares in production): 1. Graevina 2. Malvasija Istarska (Malvasia Istriana) 3. Plavac Mali

Red Grapes
Babi (Bah-bitch) Native to central Dalmatia in the Coastal Croatia region, Babi is believed to be related to Dobrii. Like other red grapes in the region, it does best in poor stony soils, warm and dry climatic conditions, and on sloping landscapes near the Adriatic Sea. Most Vrhunsko (top quality) wines are produced from grapes grown near Primoten, most notably on the ancient terraced slopes of the Bucavac vineyard, which is a UNESCO World Heritage List site under the Protected Cultural Landscapes category. Babi produces a wine of earthy dark fruit character, often with spicy notes and a touch of garrique. These wines are a deep dark ruby color often opaque with a touch of garnet at the rim. The nose often delivers aromas of black berries and plum, black olives and figs, tobacco smoke and roasted herbs, with a touch of limestone minerality. Crljenak Katelanski (Tzerl-yen-ak Kash-tel-lanski) Crljenak Ktelanski is an old, almost forgotten Croatian grape variety that recently captured the imagination of the wine-making public when DNA-profiling revealed that is genetically identical to Californian Zinfandel and Italian Primitivo. Crljenak Katelanski is native to the Katela fields just north of the coastal city of Split. Almost extinct in Croatia a few years ago, this grape varietal has since been resurrected and replanted by one of Croatias top winemakers, Zlatan Plenkovi. At some point, most likely between 500-700 years ago, Crljenak cross-bred with another old Dalmatian variety called Dobrii to give birth to Plavac Mali, the most popular red grape variety in Croatia today. Plavac Mali (Plah-vatz Mal-lee)

Plavac Mali is an indigenous red variety from Central and South Dalmatia in Coastal Croatia. Plavac Mali is a cross between two other indigenous Croatian varieties: Crljenak Katelanski (Zinfandel) and Dobrii. Plavac can adapt well to hot Mediterranean climate and poor soil with rocks. Furthermore Plavac from the southern Karst slopes, exposed to the strong sun, give full bodied, strong and healthy wines of great quality and aging potential, while grapes from the more fertile grounds produce a wine with a bit diluted flavor. The grape is mainly grown as a bush vine (un-trellised) that during the hot summer months serves as protection from the sun and heat and to resist the strong winds in the winter.

Main characteristics of the variety are high sugars, which lead to higher alcohol levels (almost never below 13%), low acids, high extract and solid tannins. The aromas tend to be reminiscent of dark cherry, plum jam and blackberries. Plavac Mali is the only Croatian variety which, when it is produced from grapes that grow in the best appellations, does not have the name of the grape on the bottle but the area where it comes from. The best appellations are Dinga, Postup (Peljeac) and Ivan Dolac (Hvar). Teran Teran is a red grape native to the West Istrian wine region of Croatia. It is widely considered to be related to but different than Refosco of Italy (Refok in Croatia). It produces a rich, slightly sour, full-bodied red wine with a high lactic acid and iron content. Teran acquires a particularly distinctive flavor and bouquet when grown in terra rossa ("Red Earth") soils found in the Western Istria wine-growing hills of Croatia. The vine produces big loose bunches whose yield needs to be curbed in order to be of any use for quality wines.

White Grapes
Bogdanua (Bohg-DAN-usha) Bogdanua is a native white grape variety that is primarily cultivated around the towns of Stari Grad and Jelsa on the island of Hvar in the South Dalmatia region, although it can also be found on Bra and in other coastal regions. Its name means gift from God probably due to its ability to produce much fruit. Bogdanua is often produced in a crisp, clean style using stainless steel fermentation. It is never aged in oak casks but some versions need about a year in bottle to settle down. While a few single varietal versions are available (see below), it is mainly utilized as a blending partner along with Trbljana, Maratina and Pr in easy drinking local white wines. More noteaby, Bogdanua is an important component of the famous Proek dessert wines of Dalmatia. Debit Debit is a native white grape variety that is primarily cultivated in the Sjeverna Dalmacija and Dalmatinska Zagora sub-regions. It makes a soft, citrusy wine with an often distinct saline note. Commonly used for everyday table-wines, one producer, Alen Bibich, has resurrected the grape in recent years and now produces a highly respected single-vineyard, barrel-aged version called Luica.

Graevina (GRASH-e-veena) Graevina (aka Welschriesling, Riesling Italico, Laki Riesling, Olasz Riesling) is the grape variety from Danube basin of central Europe. Despite its name, it bears no relationship to Riesling proper of Germany. While its exact origin is still not known, most experts agree that it is native to the region that was once the Austro-Hungarian empire. In Croatia, it thrives in the Continental region, and grows particularly well in the Kutjevo wine-growing hills of Slavonia. It is extremely popularity due its relatively high yields and adaptability to different soils and continental climate conditions, as well as its easy-drinking, extremely versatile and foodfriendly character. Malvasija Istarska (Malvasia Istriana) Malvazija Istarska was believed to be for a long number of years a part of the Malvasia family (Malvasia, Malmsey) from the Mediterranean area. However the two varietals, except for the name, dont share many similarities. Whereas most Mediterranean Malvasia produce sweet wine, Malvazija Istarska is best when produced as a dry white wine. Ampelografic differences are also substantial. In most Malvasias the bunch is square and extended and leaves have a different shape. Only recently a DNA analysis has proven the theory that the Malvasia Istriana is an indigenous Istrian varietal that does not share common origins with the other Malvasias. Malvasia is very fruitful variety with mid to higher yields therefore much work in the vineyard is required to regulate the crop. It is also quite resistant to fungal diseases such as botrytis and oidium. Malvasia Istriana is grown all around Istria, parts of the Slovenian coastal region and also in a Friuli region of Italy. The total cultivation area is large, with different microclimate conditions, therefore the wines differ in style. Maratine (Mar-AHSH-tina) Maratina (aka Rukatac or Kvarner). Is the most cultivated white variety in South Dalmatia and the islands. Maratina delivers a simple, light and seafood friendly wine, with peachy citrus and saline notes. Often utilized as a blending grape, it is increasingly showing up as a single varietal wine. Poip (Poe-SHEEP) Poip is an autochthonous white wine grape that is primarily grown in the Dalmatian region on the island of Korula, Croatia. The primary growing regions are in ara and Smokvica, which are two villages on the island. Poip is light, around 12-13% in alcohol and usually drunk at 14C. It is a natural companion for fish dishes as well as prosciutto and the light-bodied cheeses that Croatia produces

Vugava (Voo-GA-va) (aka Bugava). A white grape variety (thought to be related to Viognier) grown exclusively on the island of Vis in South Dalmatia of Coastal Croatia. Viticulture and winemaking on Vis island dates back to times before Christ, to the period of the old Greek colony, Issa. In the third century, the Greek scholar, Athena, wrote: The wine from Issa, an island in the Adriatic sea, when compared to other wines, is much better. Vugava delivers wines of high extract, with around 14% alcohol, low acidity, and aromas and flavors of fresh apricot, fig, honey, and vanilla & spice (from oak aging). Sun-dried Vugava grapes are also sometimes used in the production of Proek, a traditional sweet dessert wine of Dalmatia. lahtina (Zhlah-tee-na) Croatian native grape of the day: lahtina, a white grape native to Krk, an island in northern Dalmatia, & specifically "Vrbniko polje". The name lahtina comes from a Slavic adjective that means "noble". lahtina is usually a light bodied wine, bright greenish-yellow in color, with a crisp, citrus and slightly saline character. A well made lahtina will explode with acidity and show flavors of lemon and seaside minerals. On the palate the texture is crisp yet viscous and delivers a long, refreshing finish.

Discovering the Wines of Croatia TASTING SHEET

Whites
Kozlovic Malvasia 2008 Region: Western Istria Wine-Growing Hills, Istria, Coastal Croatia Gianfranco Kozlovic is the largest private producer of Malvasia Istriana in Istria, and a vocal crusader for quality. His vineyards dot the hillsides of northern Istria, a peninsula on the north Croatian coastline, close to where the country connects with Italy.

Plenkovic Zlatan Hvar 20___ Region: Hvar Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal Croatia Hvar is an island in the Adriatic Sea on Croatias Dalmatian coast. The vineyards of Zlatan Plenkovic are situated on the south side of the island, where the precipitous slopes of 40 to 60 are accessed by Jeep on narrow, sandy lanes. Native grapes thrive in the rocky soil here. This wine is a blend of two native white grapes varieties: Posip and Marastina

Enjingi Grasevina (a.k.a. Welschriesling) 20____ Region: Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Continental Croatia In the slim eastern stretch of Croatia, between Hungary and Bosnia-Herzegovina, is the region of Slavonia and the Valis Aurea, the Golden Valley. It is here, in Croatias breadbasket, that Ivan Enjingi creates his masterful, expressive, award-winning wines. His vineyards include some of the best in the Golden Valley around Kutjevo, where white wine is predominant, including Welschriesling and a wide variety of local and international grapes.

Enjingi Grasevina Late Harvest (a.k.a. Welschriesling) 20____ Region: Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Continental Croatia

Enjingi Venje 2003 A barrel-nurtured blend of Riesling, Gewrztraminer, Pinot Gris, Welschriesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Region: Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Continental Croatia

Reds
Enjingi Zweigelt Late Harvest 2006 Region: Kutjevo Wine-Growing Hills, Slavonia, Continental Croatia A red variety created in 1922 by crossing St. Laurent and Frankovka, Zweigelt is a vigorous vine and yield control is crucial to produce high-quality wine. Enjingi Zweigelt is ruby-red, with a beautiful palate of currants, aromatic herbs and bayleaf.

Lirica Plavac Mali 2007 Region: Peljesac Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal Croatia Produced and bottled by PZ Putnikovici, this wine is made from grapes grown on Peljesac, north of Dubrovnik and just south of the controlled appellation of Dingac.

Zlatan Crljenak 2007 Region: Split- Omis-Makarska Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal Croatia Crljenak Kastelanski is the grape that is now known to be the original Zinfandel, which through DNA-profiling has been proven to originate in Croatia. Grapes for this wine were grown in vineyards in Makarska along Croatias southern Riviera coast.

Zlatan Plavac Barrique 20_____ Region: Peljesac Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal Croatia Made from Plavac Mali, an offspring of Crljenak Kastelanski, aged for 18 months in oak barrels (half in new barrels, half in old). Organically-grown grapes.

Bura Dingac 2006 Region: Peljesac Wine-Growing Hills, Southern Dalmatia, Coastal Croatia The Bura family has been making wine on the Peljesac for five generations. Here, Niko Bura continues to raise Plavac Mali by hand in the vineyards of Dingac and Postup, and vinify the grapes at his cellars just over the mountains, reached by a famous one-lane tunnel that connects the precipitous grape-growing slopes with the inland valley. Bura Plavac Mali is produced in limited amounts from slightly raisined grapes vinified with natural yeasts and matured in French barrels for 12 months, then bottled unfiltered.