SouthIndiaheritage KanchipuramSarisofTamil Nadu

By:JyotiBhasin
INTRODUCTIONSari -the 6 yard, unstitched, runny garment over and around the body, fiddle with little tucks and pulls is the perfect Indian female piece of clothing which speaks of the beauty, grace, dignity, poise and also the power hidden in every single Indian woman. The origin of this splendid garment is a bit ambiguous due to lack of appropriate historical records in India but one thing's for sure - the sari swank the oldest subsistence and is more than 5000 years old, as mentioned in the Vedas. The sari is one of the most feminine outfits ever. The common types of saris are Kanjeevaram, Paithani, Banarasi, Bhagalpuri, Orissa Ikkat, Maheshwari, Chanderi, Gujrati Patola, and Jaipuri Leheriya. The material and the print on the sari can vary according to choice and the occasion. The common materials for a sari are silks (the queen of textiles), cottons; chiffons, organza and

georgettes. Out of these the ethnic traditional wear that is worn in most parts of the country is colorful silk sarees. In collection of sarees of Indian woman all around the world is incomplete without a Kanchipuram (Kanjeevaram) saree, one of India's most precious traditional treasures. This Sari depicts the essence of womanhood and adds special charm to it. A Kanjeevaram sari is bound to be a crowd puller and it can woo anybody with its absolute beauty. It continues to hold arrogance among the various silk sari varieties available in the country The rich weave and feel of Kancheepuram Sarees also known as Kanchipuram and Kancheevaram and sometimes Kanchivaram saris hold everyone in their wave for the past 150 years. This saree is a tremendous instigation of the craftsmen living in a small town, Kanchi (Kanchipuram) a famous historical and mythological town 60 km from Chennai, the capital of Tamilnadu. These saris are truly the South India heritage. Silk weaving in the handloom sector is clustered in and around Kanchipuram. It can be worn by women of all ages.

ORIGIN OF KANCHIPURAM SAREESKanchipuram historical records divulge that it was during the sovereignty of Krishnadeva Raya that silk weaving ascends to prominence. During that time, the Devanga and Saligar weavers, claim to descent from Sage Markanda, the weaver of the gods, were alleged for their weaving expertise in silk drifted from Andhra Pradesh and settled in Kancheepuram. This tradition of silk saree weaving at Kanchipuram arose out of temple-traditions with the renowned Kamakshi temple situated there. In older days these sarees were worn by Maharanis, wives of Zamindars, nobles and other wealthy people and during the weddings and festivals. Many of today's reputable Kanchipuram Silk weavers trained in the cultural centre of "Kalakshetra" during the 1970's when the Maharaja of Mysore descended on the Varadaraja temple, was influenced by the occupants of the temple city producing sarees with designs that are heavy in style and fabric weight, with very wide borders. The silk weavers of Kanchi settled more than 400 years ago and kept up an unflinching tradition of producing impeccable silk sarees. It was find out by various experts that silk is a new arrival into Kanchipuram, for till a century and a half back, Kanchipuram was primarily a cotton weaving centre. But, today the improved, betterwoven and more expensive silk saris are from Kanchipuram. THREADS USE IN WEAVINGAbout 75% of Kanchipuram's population is dependent on the Silk Saree industry, either directly or indirectly. Yet, the city does not manufacture Silk or any other raw material that is used to manufacture silk sarees. The Silk industry is entirely made up of Handloom weavers and merchants. Silk Threads - The mulberry silk is enormously fine as well as tough and comes from Karnataka and washed in the enriched water of the Palar River, which provides it astounding luster, typical texture, sturdiness and finish. The silk thread used for weaving the Kanchipuram Sarees is made up of three single threads twisted together but now, the three-fold silk thread had been refurbished with a two-fold one in order to cut down the production cost. The tedious procedure of making a Kanjeevaram saree starts with the chore of preparing the Silk threads. The first step is to twist the thread and then dyed them in a variety of color as silk is very

amenable to dyes and will maintain its sheen after dyeing. The threads are dipped in rice water and dried in Sun. The twisted yarn is said to be much stronger than crepe and guaranteed to last 30 to 40 years. This is basically due to the fact that India has the exclusive feature of producing diverse varieties of silk. The heavier the silk, longer is its durability. Golden zari- The State of Gujarat holds an implicit cartel in the manufacture of 'Zari' especially, the City of Surat. Zari is used while making a saree. It is a Silk thread twisted with thin Silver wire and then immersed in pure gold. It is believed this tradition started during the Mughal period. First, gold is made into a liquid form and then coated on the silver. This will add on to the beauty and the value of the silk. The quality of zari also determines the quality of the saree. If quality of zari is good, then the luster of saree would linger for a longer extent or else the saree would be firm and hard. The saree is unique in itself since it is entirely hand woven with dyed silk yarn with interleaved designs made with Zari.

Earlier, the zari was supplied from Surat. But now the Padiyur Sarvodaya Sangh (PSS), a certified unit of the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) near Kangayam, is the distinct unit in South India where dyeing, weaving and zari production of silk saris are done. From cocoon to attractive silks, the unit practices everything under one roof. Every year it manufacture five crore silk sarees, and of these, 2.5 crore saris are distributed in the local market. PROCEDUREThe main characteristic of the Kanchipuram sari lies in the time consuming method of interlocking its weft colours as well as its end piece and in the process creating solid borders and a solid Mundhi. Simple saris can take up to 10-12 days for preparation and up to 20 days of workmanship for decorative ones. This technique is called as the Korvai technique of attaching the additional warp threads (in contrasting colors) at definite preset point along the length and width of the warp, thereby developing a well segregated and pleasant separation from the main field using two or three shuttles to create a sari. In simple weaving operation the shuttle carries weft yarns across the entire width of the warp. In korvai weaving, however three ( two if a single border is woven) separate shuttles ply the weft yarn, not across the entire width but individually, one at each border and one across the width of the center of the warp. Three shuttles are operated by two weavers and the assistant moves the third. The children are often employed as assistants in this labour-intensive industry. A child is able to perform the tasks required as competently as an adult, can be paid much lower rates, and is likely to stay with the weaver for longer periods than a mature person, who will acquire skills and can start his own business. The product of the single warp is a homogenous fabric length with a group of sari each of which is cut from the warp and is completed and weaving of the next sari begun on the same warp. The length of the rectangular warp is determined by the number of saris to be woven and is marked at standard intervals accordingly. In Kanchipuram three saris per warp are woven, the length is approximately nineteen and a half yards (each sari is six yards and extra for wastage). Interlocked Zari borders are common down both sides of the sari and the garment is finished with matching gold Zari Pallu. This joint is woven so strongly that even if the saree tears, the pallu or border will not detach. If nicely done one hardly sees where one colour ends and the other begin.

MOTIFS-

The traditional motifs found in Kancheepuram saris include pyramidal temple (Pallava) borders, checks, stripes, floral buttas, Rudraksham (representing Rudraksha beads), Gopuram (representing temples), mallinaggu, mayilkan (peacocks eye), Kuyilkan (nightingale eye) borders. Patterns are also formed by lines and squares and when the jasmine motif is found either inside a square or scattered all over, it is called mallinaggu. The Thandavalam motif has parallel-line motifs running all over the body of the sari. In the pattu motif, the pallu and the border alone have floral motifs independently woven on them. Emblematical motifs such as, fresh mango, sweet grapes elephant, the sun, moon, chariots, yali, swans, elegant peacocks, parrots, lions, coins, the graceful three bells of an anklet diamond, lotus, pot, creeper, flower, parrot, and hen are very common in these sarees. However, these days depiction of stories from mythology scenes likes great epics of Ramayana and Mahabharata, along with the Bhagwad Gita being used as motifs. Tribal designs as well as modern patterns are also seen.

COLORSThese sarees are usually made in bright or earthy-crimson, brilliant reds, saffron, orange, bright green, henna green, maroon, black, peacock blue, turquoise and ochre with bright divergent borders. Even the color combinations are vibrant. A mango yellow body is set out by a deep maroon border. A parrot green body is matched with a bright pink border. These days silver is being used in addition to gold. Weavers also make tissue sarees, using only gold or silver metal threads. With their alluring colors and wonderful designs, Kanchipuram silk sarees are worn by the rich and prosperous across India. COSTThe sheer magnitude of textures, colors and designs of Kanjivaram silk saris of India is inconceivable. Kanjeevarams are expensive and can cost anywhere between Rs. 2000 to Rs. 50,000. The cost of the saree depends upon the amount of zari intertwined with the silk. The more the zari work, the more expensive the sari will be.

CHANGES/ RECENT DEVELOPMENTThe Kanchipuram silk industry has dealt with many highs and lows and has made its charisma felt internationally. However, the customary challenges faced by it today are undertaking amendments to suit shifting customer inclinations, use of modern technology, merchandise mix and value-added products. The consumers are now apprehensive about the price and the weight and prefer pastel shades and simple designs. The market for such high cost silk sarees is dwindling and mainly restricted to wedding purchases. In order to attain these requirements the kanjivaram silk saree has undergone a revolution.

The recent development in the designing field shows the introduction of Jacquard loom. In order to bring changes according to modern time. The weaving of complex and more difficult motifs on the pallu has been made easier and thus reasonable in affordable rate. The recent array in the pallu is - Krishna in different phases, Krishna with Radhaji, the motifs are still conformist and conservative in order to hold the custom and tradition of a Kanchipuram sari. Even computerized Jacquard borders are made and attach to the main field. It has kept thrash with modern prints and its rich and splendid prosperity prolongs to provide a festive touch to any occasion. Today the designer silk sarees with embroidery or even embellished with cystals are made to fulfill the taste of the customers. Even the wedding sarees are made with rich woven pallavs depicting paintings of Raja Ravi Varma. One of the hottest trends in these sarees is using ancient paintings and the images of gods and goddesses in the pallu The weavers have started unification of silk and cotton for producing the body of the saree. Sometimes, the body of the saree is made in cotton and the border in silk. Weaving borders using a combination of silk and polyester is also undertaken by some weavers. This is due to the fact that the shift in demand is not just because of the high price, but also because in this modern world, women are opting for light-weight and subtle sarees The gold and silver content in the zari is also being reduced. This brings down the cost of the saree to a great extent. These practices have adversely affected the status of the Kanchipuram silk sarees and are disturbing their sales in a negative manner.

As an substitute, the use of texturised zari in the place of pure zari has also encouraged so that the intricacy in designs in Kancheepuram silk sarees weaving is maintained and at the same time the cost of silk sarees is brought down to the economical price range.

The new designs are inculcated in the saree with collaboration with several design centers in India, including the National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad, Kalakshetra in Chennai, Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai, the Co-optex design division and several private designers to cater to the changing design needs. To gratify the varying likings of consumers, the traditional silk units, have begun weaving churidar sets. It will not be long before they start making furnishings Initiative by Tamil Nadu Government for Silk Industry-

The Tamilnadu government and TIFAC (Technology Information Forecasting and Assessment Council) have mutually set up a testing unit for zari in Kanchipuram, which checks the content of gold and silver in zari. This facility can be used by both co-operatives and individuals by paying a nominal fee. Any saree sold as a Kanchipuram saree should follow certain set quality standards regarding weight and zari and the saree should have been produced in the region according to the Geographical Indication Act. Legal action can be taken against anyone selling a duplicate sarees as a Kanchipuram saree. The Tamilnadu Government in order to protect the interests of the weavers is planning to assign a special logo to Kanchipuram silk sarees to certify their authenticity. This industry has recently faced some cases related to the selling of fake Kanchi silk sarees. It is also made compulsory to purchase the silk yarn from Tan Silk, the government's shop to ensure its quality. Also the dye house is run by the government in order to ensure the quality of the colours. Throughout the year the government gives a rebate of 20 per cent or Rs.200 on all saris with the purpose of cleaning their old stocks.

The zari is made in the government-run Tamil Nadu Zari factory in Kancheepuram, but the silver wire needed for its production still comes from Surat as this technique is a secret of few families out there. The NFDDC, a unit of the Defence Research and Development Organization in Hyderabad, is now working hard so that they will be able to draw wire from silver. With the success of this project the dependency on Surat for silver wire will be reduced which will fetch down the cost of the production drastically. The government has undertaken a campaign to eradicate child labour from the Kanchipuram silk industry. Under this campaign, committees have been formed to charge the loom owners for using child labour. In order to overcome this problem the government has developed equipment, costing Rs.500 to perform the job of the helper. Until now the silk sari has not been reproduced by the power looms due to its uniqueness, but soon that may also happen and the industry should be geared to take on the power looms as well. It is important that this sector, which provides livelihood to thousands of families, is backed by the Government in these tough times. TradeIn Kanchipuram, Silk Sarees are sold either through Co-operative societies or by private merchants. In the year 1949, the first co-operative society of weavers was formed, called the Kamatchi Amman Society. About 24 co-operative societies were formed over the course of time, most of which are managed by the Tamilnadu government. Some of the reputed co-operative societies of weavers are the Kamatchi Amman Silk Society, Murugan Silk Society, Varadharaja Swamy Silk Society, Kanchipuram Silk Society and others. The Kamatchi Amman Society now has about 2000 members and is one of the largest. Totally, there are about 50000 weavers who work through various cooperative societies with around 60000 silk looms. The yearly turnover of the town exceeds Rs. 200 crores, with exports of approximately Rs. 3 crores. According to experts, the exports have not risen to their full prospective, as the demand for sarees outside India is trifling. Product diversification is being considered by the industry, which would definitely lead to a rise in exports. In the private sector, there are over 200 manufacturers in Kanchipuram alone. These private manufacturers procure sarees from independent weavers in Kanchipuram and export them to other cities in India as well as abroad. Some of the more famous ones are Sri Kumaran Silks, and Nalli Silks in Chennai. The large cooperative societies are government-run and hence have a very small profit margin and moreover the profits reach the weaver directly. Hence, cooperative societies are usually less expensive. Private merchants commonly have a larger profit margin and also have other costs like advertising, middle agents, etc. Normally, the cooperative societies do not conduct experiments with new colors or grand designs. Private merchants, on the other hand, offer a much wider choice. Such sarees usually start at Rs.15, 000 and go as high as a couple of hundred thousands. The RMKV and Sons a renowned shop for kanchipuram saris located in Tirunelveli

and at Chennai had manufactured the world's first kanchipuram sari with 50,000 colours on it. CONCLUSIONThe Kanchipuram sarees reflect a weaving and dyeing tradition hundreds of years old. They are known to be worn by the Indian women, who reveal the gratifying beauty of graceful spectacular creations of the weavers. With its startling color and texture, this clothing reflects the high status and classic choice of the wearer. The demand and recognition of the sarees has reached globally. A unique feature of the Kancheepuram silk sari is its strength, which is made possible by the twisted yarn - double warp and double weft that gives it the weight; its vibrant colour contrasts and its exquisite design beautifully integrating the different colours of the body and the border and pallu. Kancheepuram sarees is one of the inimitable arts of India and its legitimacy should be defended. This craft of making saree are definitely facing problems due to changing market demand. This artifact is changing; still the traditional style remains intact. It is believe, that this is one industry that will not be affected relentlessly by the global financial crisis. At the same time, it is vital that authorities start preparing for confronts and keep this industry from fading as one can only predict the future but cant be certain about it. References: 1. www.craftandartisans.com 2. www.flonnet.com 3. www.indiamart.com 4. www.indianheritage.com

About the Author:

The author is Senior Faculty, CRM at FDDI (Footwear Design & Development Institute), Noida, India