Running Header: The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

The Progress of Pakistani Fashion Industry (Lahore)

Muhammad Furqan Ali Muhammad Umair Raja Irfan Haider Umair Ahmad Raza Amjad

Mr. Khurram Shahzad

Dec 21, 2011 COMSATS Lahore

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

Abstract This research paper explores the fashion industry current dilemmas regarding how to further increase the popularity of Pakistani industry in the world and bring it to the same standing as the rest of the world. For this purpose the research explored public and expert opinion regarding the fashion industrys progress and analysiss it to see the true picture of the Fashion Industry.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) From the day after the stone ager the most sophisticated personality shunt the obsolete

and started covering themselves with leaves, the word fashion was born. It is a human nature that is always struggle from the better to the best. This led to the human desire to look admirable and it also effected the population of Lahore. The perpetually shifting changes in clothing gave birth to fashion and a never ending journey of looking fashionable began. Hence, the fashion industry was born. Lahoris have shown a keen sense of fashion throughout the times. Our aim was to discover the Lahori fashion industry standing in the modern world with the foreign competitors and to extract from our research the improvements required to make the Lahori fashion industry internationally recognized so as to raise awareness about our culture. The research paper would be a stepping stone for new research. This research was unique due to the fact that it tapped into the widely untapped avenue of the Lahores fashion industrys progress. This was an issue that needed to be explored and not many researches have been done regarding it. The research would benefit current designers as well as aspiring fashion designers and models who want to enter the industry. It would also further generate new avenues of research and help those who are working in the fashion industry with its discoveries. Moreover, it would help consumers too. The consumers would get to know more about our fashion industry and about the new designers and their works. Also, our research would help in telling the designers the type of demand and catering to it which in turn would help the consumers. This research was limited according to geography as well as to the limit of its progress. We gathered data from Lahore and focus only on the data that depicts its progress.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Literature Review

In 1950s fashion was unknown to Pakistani society, but through the dedication of certain committed people today it is the most progressive industry of Pakistan. In 1930s and 1940s due to western influence angarkhas, choghas & jamas diminished. This was the time fashion industry took its initial step and started its journey. In the long run, ceremonial: pugdi, safa, topi, sherwani, peshwaz, kurta, ghaghra & odhni came into fashion and then were overshadowed but rarely were they completely obliterated. In 1950s dying and handloom industries gained popularity and in 60s kurtas & choridars were introduced which brought a drastic change in fashion of Pakistan. 1970s brought international fashion in Sub-continent. Clothes were bold and flashier. The trend of 70s continued in 80s. In 1990s fashion still didnt get much importance as it was not considered as an industry according to Kunwar (2009), whose opinion mostly holds true as the industry included women working from home, who didnt get any formal education in fashion hence; it was majorly seen as a cottage industry. However, when this same cottage industry was provided with designer inputs and new techniques of weaving it became capable of competing in the international fashion industry. Satellite T.V in South Asia and youngsters of Pakistan , who were very motivated, contributed a lot to the progress of the fashion industry by bring commendable changes in their life style and through promoting the industry. But today in the 21st century it is believed that the success of fashion industry lies in the hands of the designers. The real trendsetters in the society who dragged the industry from traditional darzis (tailor) into cutting-edge designer wears. The Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) serves a pivotal role in meeting the numerous day to day challenges that the Pakistan fashion industry faces. Sehyr Saigol, Pakistans leading fashion pioneer laid the foundation of the Council according to Marium Shah (2009). Under its establishment, all phenomenal Pakistani designers across major cities were brought under one umbrella to work collectively for a mutual goal.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

Hassan Shehryar Yasin, the official spokesperson of PFDC believes that the textile sector and fashion industry should join hands to envision better results. He also wishes to amalgamate the traditional outfits with a designer touch not only to showcase talent of people living in rural areas but also to create more jobs. PFDC has made countless contributions to Pakistan when the country was undergoing turbulent times of dispossession. It donated Rs2.0 million from its treasury and Rs.4.0 million from fundraising fashion show according to Marium Shah (2009). On top of all, many training workshops were also organised to teach designers methods of producing, editing and selling collections. Overall PFDC is a backbone to all the progress that has shown up in the industry of interest in recent times. Madeeha Syed (2009) in her article Fashion in the time of turmoil muses about the variance between the Fashion Industry and the sociopolitical circumstances of Pakistan. The terrorist activities have people so scared that they dont even want to step outside their homes. On the other hand, some very indifferent and privileged people are conducting fashion shows. It may seem as supreme callousness shown by the elite class need it be seen as such? It may be their willingness to face bravely the unrest in our country and move forward despite it all. Some also think that ignoring all the chaos around us is being used as an escape tactic. If people gave it so much importance then we might as well kill ourselves because it is going to happen anyway. Turmoil has always been existed in our country and when it comes to fashion the already tarnished picture becomes a lot darker. However, it is significant to note that it still manages to hold the ground it has already captured. The Fashion Industry of Pakistan has always faced erratic social and religious responses as the matter of Muslim womens attire holds special interest in the eyes of the religious dignitary. Yaseer Latif Hamdani (2009) in his article Long live Pakistan fashion industry explains how the publication of a solitary picture gave rise to a huge uproar, with people going so far as to label the unveiling of a models party dress as objectification of women. These people refused to acknowledge that Islam preaches freedom of choice, in everything.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

Religious fanatics while twisting words to control women through their attire completely ignore more pressing issues that are adversely affecting womens lives. They create uproar over a puny matter of a picture yet fail to raise a finger when Muslim women are forced to commit acts the mere mention of which would raise the hair on the back of your necks. Pakistan Readymade Garment Manufacturer and Exporters Association (PRGMEA) is the organization working for the development of Pakistans fashion industry and it has taken a very positive step to become a member of International Apparel Federation (IAF). Pakistan is the 44th country to join IAF as mentioned by the author. IAF can help PAKISTANs fashion industry to progress because in IAF all the major international buyers are present with all the top brands. They should come to Pakistan and see the work done by the Pakistani designers and to see whether they are capable to meet international standards. Efforts should be made in order to make them come to Pakistan freely with complete political and social stability so that they should feel comfortable in Pakistan. As stated by Mr. Mohsin (chairman PRGMEA) that IAF can help Pakistani designers with new technology and guidance to work in international market. PRAGMEA was invited in IAFs 25th convention which was attended by the former chairman of PRGMEA Ijaz A. Khokhar.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Research Questions Primary Research Question The research was based on the question, The progress of the Pakistani Fashion Industry (Lahore). Subsidiary Research Questions The subsidiary questions consist of 1) What is Fashion industry and how did it began its journey? 2) How are the designers contributing to the fashion industrys progress? 3) Does the expansion of the fashion Industrys Sector market depict its progress? 4) Are the consumers benefitting from the progress of the industry? 5) Where does our Fashion Industry stand today and how bright its future is?

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Methods Research Tools Interview from Authorities Miss. Salina Khan, head designer of Salina and Warda. Mrs. Sonia Khan, sole proprietor and head designer of Pahnava. Miss. Noureen Khan, sole proprietor and head designer of Simky. Interview from Effectee Mrs. Maliha Ali, who is a housewife. The research material was collected through surveys, interviews and own observations for primary data. 30 questionnaires were distributed among students of LUMS, BNU and in Mall of Lahore. Students were especially chosen for this research as they are the future of Pakistan and are more aware of the current fashion trends than their predecessors. Data Collection procedures Questionnaires, interviews and observations were carried out to collect data regarding our primary research. Data Analysis Procedures Quantitative and qualitative data has been interpreted by using the research tools mentioned above.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Fashion industry and how it began its began its journey Fashion, a general term for the style and custom prevalent for a given time, in its most common usage refers to costume or clothing style. In technical terms, costume has become very much linked in the public eye to the term "fashion" that the more general term "costume" has popularly been relegated to special senses like fancy dress or masquerade wear, while the term "fashion" means clothing generally, and the study of it. Fifteen years back fashion industry was still unknown to Pakistani society. Later fashion councils and education centers under some courageous people were created. These people are actually striving to bring a change and improvement in the fashion industry. While fashion passed through very inert, static and quiescent period (all through 1950s and an early part of 1970s) where fashion was concerned, it was in the 1970s that Pakistan finally got its first retail-fashion boutique established by Tanveer Jamshed called TEEJAYS.

The 1930s were dominated by socialism and communism and therefore fashion turned to be increasingly feminine in keeping with these restricted ideas. In contrast, this period gave birth to the culture of clubs and Indian and Pakistani cinemas. Though there had been a western influence but still the more formal pugdi, safa and topi were widespread as always. Women appeared to be slow in adapting to the changes as they continued to wear the peshwaz, kurta, ghagra and odhni at religious and festive occasions. (Refer to appendix G) In 1940s, during this era fashion in the newly created Pakistan saw a ray of hope in the form of gora culture hats, ties, belts etc (Refer to Appendix C, Question 7) 50% people believe that Pakistani fashion is dominated by Western fashion. Due to western influence angarakhas, choridars and jamas diminished and were replaced by sherwani, which is still worn by Pakistani men. In 1950s, dying and handloom industries were appreciated in that era with the growth of art colleges and schools. In 1960s fashion brought drastic changes in fashion industries and lifestyle in Pakistan with the introduction of kurtas, choridars.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

10

In1970s, the international fashion entered the boundaries of sub-continent which became the cause of popularity of synthetic fibers and the clothes became flashier and bold. The trend on 1970s continued in 1980s and the fashion of 80s is again back today whether it was clothing, accessories, or hairstyle and it was the most conservative and masculine look because of the wide use of shoulder pads. In 1990s, fashion industry was still seen deprived of still the renowned position it deserved to have. Luckily, the 21st century under Musharrafs government is considered a progressive government as it gave exposure to the fashion industry. This time period marks the hallmark of how designers contribute to the direction taken by fashion. The fashion industry progressed in bounds after the unfortunate Bahawalpur air crash of a particular army dictator. The arrival of democracy gave a path to female designers to come into this field. They lacked technical as well as business skills that is why the initial take off was very slow but during the government of Benazir Bhutto there was a sudden boom in the fashion industry. It was the time when people were made to feel its presence when personalities like Rana Sheikh, who was the MD of PTV at that time, promoted the cause of fashion industry. The World Cup of 1996 provided another chance to fashion industry to make a grand entrance on the national scale. Without fashion the culture and traditions of any country in the world is undefined. Fashion is the biggest medium or platform through which any country can promote its culture, costumes and traditions. This is one of the ways to prove our existence, talent and capability to the world abroad. Pakistani fashion is a mixture of different cultures of sub-continent, for example, sarhis (an Indian culture) which is also very common in Pakistan is influenced by Mughal Era in which jewels, stones, and sophisticated embroidery was in demand. Even today that pattern is copied and followed increasingly. As Salina Khan said: No matter how modern are, they still want their own tradition and culture, (personal communication, March 1, 2010). However, the treasures of Mughal heritage as well as folk culture are still hidden and are not explored to a large extent internationally. A country is represented by the outcomes its industries produce. A fashion industry also plays an important role in countrys success. Pakistani fashion industry is making expansions

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) beyond borders. It is rich in ideas, innovation and productions. For the success of Pakistan fashion industry we cannot ignore the work of talented Pakistani fashion designers and labels especially those who are working under the banner of Fashion Pakistan. To elaborate on that, Maria Butt, the finest student from the first batch of graduates from the Pakistan Institute of

11

Fashion Design (PIFD) was selected to represent Pakistan at the global competition in Belgium, Europe named Les Etoiles de la mode. She was the one who created oversees awareness of our intricate cultural designs. (Refer to Appendix G) Our brilliant designers like Hassan Shehryar Yasin are working for internationally renowned labels like Armani on a regular basis and count Counting Queen Rania of Jordan and Royal princesses of Bahrain and Dubai as among his important costumers. These designers led the fashion industry from an old tailor (darzee) culture that formerly existed to designer boutiques. Today fashion industry has become one of the most progressive industries of Pakistan. The progress of fashion industry solely depends on the society we live in. Though we have entered the 21st century and we call it a modern world but still in our society fashion industry is not accepted as an honorable profession. Parents mostly stop their children from entering into this field as was also pointed out by Salina Khan that when she decided to choose this profession her family was not in favor as they didnt consider fashion industry an appropriate profession for girls. (Refer to Appendix C Question 10) In contrast to this Noureen Khans parents wanted her to enter the fashion industry simply because previously she was in a slightly more dubious profession than fashion: psychology. Research showed that 44% of the students agreed that parents do not want their children to enter the fashion industry.9Refer to Appendix C, Question 10) Apart from families, the influence of Mullaism in Zias regime is still being carried on, though not as strongly as it was at that time. Today many institutions are contributing for the progress of fashion industry by producing new talent, for example, PSFD, NCA etc but the industry is still in dire need of more good institutions to promote the cause of fashion industry. Many students are changing their fields and opting for fashion designing, making it their profession. Noureen Khan is a perfect

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) example of this: I had done my masters in psychology then I have done masters in fashion designing (Personal communication, March 17, 2010).

12

Our young stream of Lahore is also in favor of promoting fashion which they think could change their lifestyle, make them look good and polish their personalities at least from the exterior. 66.67% of the students agreed that they are following fashion. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 1) Style we do, Whatever feels good on your skin, and Necessary these days were some of the predominant responses obtained from youngsters through research that depict that integral part fashion is in their lives. (Refer to Appendix D) This is mainly due to media, as it is providing biggest aid in promoting fashion and creating awareness, as was expressed by the over whelming 93% positive responses to this statement. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 8) Research showed that currently fashion is greatly influenced by the designers. They are the real trendsetters. They hold the future, fortune and success of fashion in their hands. They are the one who decide in what direction the fashion will go. The activities of these designers resulted into a collaborative effort to form a fashion industry. They made the fashion industry capable of competing internationally, with other industries, which is a commendable achievement. Hassan Shehryar Yasin, HSY has changed perception of foreigners regarding the Pakistani men in his words by saying People do not even think I am Pakistani when they see me; they automatically perceive me to be Arab as if I am from Lebanon. But I am very proud to be Pakistani and I am proud to be able to go and break a certain mould of about how people see Pakistani men. (Refer to Appendix G)

Designers contribution to the fashion industrys progress Questionnaires filled out by general public reveal that 67% of people today follow fashion changes while a small chunk of around 17% do not. Interviewing Maliha Ali, a US resident who pays yearly visits to Pakistan to buy designer collection also touches upon the fact that a broader fashion sense is largely being observed in people nowadays. She says: Everyone knows what to do for their outerwear (personal communication, March 3, 2010). At the other

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) end, Sonia Khan, the brand owner of Pahnava at Empire Centre, Lahore reiterates the idea that there has been an increasing trend of fashion awareness among women (personal communication, March 17, 2010).

13

Out of the thirty people sampled, 50% attribute the progress of Pakistani fashion industry to media while 27% votes to the new designers taking birth in the field and 23% gives coverage to institutes like National College of Arts (NCA) and PFDC. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 3) The fashion designer Salina Khan, a graduate of LAS (2000) and ARU university of London (2004), adheres to the fact that a degree in any field of interest from a reputable institution is very important. She supports this claim by stating an example of a lawyer as is evident from the interview that was conducted. For a person to be a lawyer, it is essential to have a degree in hand no matter how clever an individual could be (personal communication, March 1, 2010). Institutions aside in her opinion, media is promoting the game to the best of its potential. There is a constant exchange of visits between designers as well as local and international buyers. People come in to buy their products which helps bring a good name to the country. Noureen Khan (Simky), also running an outlet at Empire Centre, Lahore believes in a qualified designer rather than a Ghar Wala designer as is clear from her own struggles to become a successful and professional designer (personal communication, March 17, 2010). Having done Masters in Psychology and then subsequently moving to US to do MS Fashion Designing, her sense of belief corresponds to the idea that working with good existing designers in market is very crucial before launching ones own brand. She was the leading designer in Chen One from the years 2000 2005. In her words it was an Excellent! Amazing experience because that was the first kind of store we had in Pakistan at that time also when I started and I think it grew with me; we have opened up many branches in Pakistan and outside like Dubai and everywhere; huge set-up, good factory experience, I learned a lot from there (personal communication, March 17, 2010). Unlike Noureen Khan, Hassan Shehryar Yasin, one of the Pakistans most renowned designers, who is selling his clothes not only locally but also internationally today, had already spent six years in the fashion industry the moment he graduated from Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design (PIFD). He went to every other sound designer in Lahore and Karachi but no one would hire him because they did not want a male to work for them, which indicates the

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

14

grossest kind of gender biasness. On top of that, the owners did not want HSY to take over their brand names due to his exquisite talent and work. He then decided to ignore all and took on his own fashion journey and today its the largest selling brand in the region. He says: If fashion is a crazy hurricane, then HSY is the eye of the storm where its calm and constant. (Refer to Appendix G). Salina possesses an aesthetic sense of drawing and sketching and also has an inborn talent of fine arts. She draws her inspiration from book reading of Mughal and traditional collection and does three to four fashion weeks a year. Her outfits were initially more western but now she has adopted certain colours and cuts from cities like New York and London and fused them with eastern attires. Noureen Khan (Simky) gets motivation particularly from fabrics and colours. Her craftwork encompasses the cultural heritage of Multan and Bahawalpur. According to her, Gota, mukesh and embroidery are some form of embellishments which she inculcates in western apparels giving them a subtle yet chic outlook (personal communication, March 17, 2010). She has carried out fashion shows in Lahore and Faisalabad where professional as well as fresh designers were also invited. She envisions this as an advantage for new designers as they gather more exposure and business if they come up with better collection. More than half of the people (53%) believe that fashion shows play a vital role in promoting the fashion sector as exhibiting designers work reveals our culture and also creates a general awareness of what is in and what is obsolete. Around 10% say that not only the fashion shows are an important contributing factor to the progress but other factors such as designer work, institutions and media are also playing roles on their part. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 3) Half of the sampled people are of the view that Pakistani fashion is influenced by western fashion, 20 % are not sure while 30% do not think its effected by the western trends. Noureen Khan (Simky) while studying in US, developed an interest in western apparel but on returning to Pakistan fused the western style with our traditional ones. She provides analogy to the eastern churi dars by the tights worn in west and the bell-bottoms in vogue these days also come into existence from the loose pants worn by foreigners. In her words: We want to be like them and we manipulate few things to come up with something different and thats exciting for me.(Refer to appendix). Salina Khan on the other hand, initially worked on western attire but gradually incorporated certain colours and cuts to the eastern wear. Both designers, Salina and Noureen,

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) have earned their degrees abroad and it is essential for both of them to satisfy their clientele

15

professionally. Therefore, the outfits can vary in their cut and style while dealing with local and international buyers according. Sonia Khan began working after receiving short training courses and travelled to Bangkok to attend workshops. However, she has never bought anything from abroad to sell it in Pakistan. She believes in wearing western clothes on a casual basis but likes to wear traditional clothes on a party or a wedding. Moreover, she encourages eastern attire by sending her outfits to clientele abroad. Now since fashion sector started to flourish in the late 1980s in Pakistan, many parents were reluctant to allow their children to join this field while some were not. Our research indicates that 44% of the students agreed that parents did not want to send their children to fashion design institutes, only a 10% differed from this statement. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 10) Sonia Khan gives insight to a different fact which no other designer has touched upon and that is the pay scale offered to designers is far better than that of doctors. Therefore, according to her, parents are sending their children to fashion sector willingly. Salina Khan says in her interview that her parents did not want her to do designing since most people in her family were either lawyers or doctors. However, she managed to convince her parents and she along with her cousin, Warda went to learn fashion designing together. She showed interest and passion to her parents by doing well initially in college. She says that parents usually do not like sending their children to this sector essentially because of the environment. One has to interact a lot with people in order to grasp the tips of the game and there could be people who party, drink and do drugs (personal communication, March 1, 2010). According to Sonia Khan, parents are changing nowadays and are letting their children enter this field. Noureen Khan (Simky) said in her interview that she was not stopped by her parents to take up fashion designing as her career. The analysis of the qualitative research question shows that there are better quality and new westernized trends are available at labels across Lahore. (Refer to Appendix D, Question 12) More fashion designers are being churned out from the fashion based institutes and their creativity is contributing to better designed products. More people are entering into the industry and demand has increased due to a flavour for fashion taking birth among people. On the other side of the picture, many believe that fashion is receiving more coverage only to attract people to western trends and styles.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

16

A diverse range of answers was received from affectees about what is fashion to them. A majority related fashion to a sense of comfort while others considered it as style, class and sensuality. Yet for others it is trendy, casual clothing and keeping oneself up to date. However, many take it as a less important component of their lives. Majority of the masses are criticized on the way they dress up and interestingly this criticism is a further motivation for some to continue following fashion trends. Some are stopped by parents while others again take it as a choice, not an obligation. Many others have never been criticized since they have never dressed up that way.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

17

Expansion of the fashion Industrys Sector market depicted through its progress Fashion is an industry that covers all walks of life. In the modern era fashion has emerged as an industry to enhance its importance and to make it come on a broader scale. Fashion industries in different parts of the world are of great importance because of the revenues associated with them. They are progressing at a rapid pace all over the world because of new techniques and expertise coming in this field. New innovations have been made in textile industry which has made it easy to project new designs on clothes. With the increase in the number of television channels regarding fashion, this industry has progressed a lot because of these channels people became aware of whats going on in latest fashion and they try to get the same and this has increased the demand for designer clothes which has further increased the number of people associated with this field. It was uncovered through primary research that although there had been a significant increase in the number of people associated with this field the economic impact is still very much on a personal level according to Noureen Khan (personal communication, March 17, 2010). However, fashion industry requires the employment of a large number of work force and hence, it could play a significant role in the economy of a country. Fashion industry just doesnt include clothes but it includes many other things as well like professional models, photographers, make-up artists and all those people who are working as a tool for the industry. Its a complete setup and setting it up this takes a lot of time. Pakistani fashion industry is still very much in its raw form when compared with the rest of the world. In Pakistan resources are not available and the designers find it difficult to showcase their work on the global scene. Moreover, this industry is also left behind because of the neglect of government and the political instability in the country. Research showed that 46.67% of the students agreed that political instability effects the progress of fashion industry whereas the same percentage of students did not agreed with the same fact. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 9) However the later opinion could be explained away by the fact that as fashion is associated with attire, which is a necessity hence, no matter how many bomb blasts threaten to explode people will continue to demand more clothes. Keeping this in mind it is interesting to notice that Sonia Khan expressed political instability to be very bad for business as it inevitably results in markets being closed for indeterminate periods of time and having to disappoint clients (personal communication, March 17, 2010).

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) The fact that terrorist activities in Pakistan are at their peak and in such condition the

18

foreign direct as well as local investment in the industry is diminishing and the fashion industry is being drastically affected by such activities. Pakistani culture is very popular in the west and other parts of the world as there is very high demand of Pakistani clothes and other accessories. Research showed that there was an immediate need to address the demand of these consumers and to cater their needs regarding fashion. This would also facilitate the positive portray of Pakistan and its culture. Some of Pakistani fashion designers are also doing renowned work internationally and are getting recognition for this as they cater the needs of domestic and foreign buyers. Their designs are unique as they represent the true Pakistani culture and to earn huge amount of revenue one must target the international market. These designers include Hassan Shehryar Yasin (HSY), Maria B., Deepak Parwani and Maheen Khan. Salina Khan also caters to the international consumers as she has outlets in U.K and USA. Moreover, she also responds to orders all over the world (personal communication, March 1, 2010). All these people have worked really hard to achieve such a supreme status but still they have a long journey ahead of them. They have been organizing fashion shows locally and internationally to get the attention of bulk buyers. Pakistani fashion industry will pace up the progress when all the homework by these designers and government officials is done because then all the investors and buyers will come to Pakistan when they will find it safe to come to Pakistan and will get the goods they are looking for. These designers have a very good reputation in Pakistan and are the base of Pakistani fashion industry. All of them have their outlets all over Pakistan and are in the reach of their consumers. The rates charged by all of them are very high as they use to work for the elite class and upper-middle class. It was also determined through primary research that 53.3% of the students thought that the prices charged indicate the targeted clientele. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 5) In the defense of designers it must be mentioned that as their designs are unique they make the consumers pay for it. Their huge revenues have attracted many new designers in the industry and this has further increased the size of the industry.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

19

Fashion industry does not only include designers it also include models, make-up artists, photographers etc who are guided buy designers to work the way they want them to. Media, which includes fashion channels that have recently increased in number and are helping the people working in the industry to properly showcase their work. Fashion shows are telecasted on these channels which are organized by different designers and through this means they attract their local and foreign consumers. Fashion journalism is a vital part of newspapers nowadays and they are playing an important role for the development of the fashion industry as are fashion magazines, which are another very important source of information. In Pakistan the budget of a marriage ceremony is very high and the expenses of brides clothes and make-up are a major part of this budget. It was determined that there is a rising trend towards getting bridal clothes made by famous designers and getting make-up done by the best make-up artist. This trend is increasing day by day adding to the demand of the designer clothes make-up artists, and photographers and this constitutes a large amount of their income as the bridal make-up, photo session and dresses are very expensive and people are willing to pay to get the best for special occasions like these. Salina Khan mentioned in her interview that the competition among people to look good also adds to the demand of designer clothes (personal communication, March1, 2010). Young generation of Pakistan are very motivated and attracted a lot towards the fashion industry after seeing its ever increasing demand and high profit margins. Many of the new entrants in the fashion industry have studied from abroad which shows that the future of the fashion industry is very prosperous as all these designers have got quality education and great entrepreneurial abilities to enhance their business and to make the Pakistani fashion industry progress across the borders and all over the world. According to Salina Khan, new talent is bringing new culture to Pakistani fashion industry, which is extremely good as they are quick to respond to consumer demand changes and know exactly what a consumer wants (personal communication, March 1, 2010).However, unfortunately there are also many designers entering the industry who dont know what to produce and have no patience to survive in the industr. As said by Kazmi So many boutiques coming up and closing as soon as they come up. Fashion schools should emphasize to young designers that they need to do limited work, but quality work.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Fashion industry is very glamorous and it attracts every some with the new fashion trends and

20

some with the money. Fashion Industry is pumped up a lot by media as said by Hassan Shehryar Yasin: Like in every other service related business, media support is essential. With fashion it is even more so. (Refer to Appendix G) Through primary research it was discovered that 50% of the people think that media is mainly responsible for the progress of fashion industry (Refer to Appendix C, Question 3). Another important element required to make the fashion industry move successfully with the foreign competitors is organizing a fashion week in which all the best designers should show the work this can be done with the multinational sponsors this would help Pakistan to mark its stamp at the international arena as a fashion hub. Rizwan Beyg said regarding the necessity of fashion week: We need the entire fashion industry to put aside its ego and band together and with multinational sponsorship, organize a fashion week, The secondary research shows that fashion awards like LUX STYLE AWRDS have further increase competition among the masses to look good, such events improve the efficiency of the work done by different designers and motivate them to do better than before. Such events also increased the space of innovative ideas, which is a good development in the ever changing fashion industry. Upon survey it was seen that 53.3% of the students said that fashion shows play an important role in the progress of fashion industry (Refer to Appendix C, Question 4). Dittu (2008) Designers have visions, but need industrialists to get involved and produce lines of clothing and other merchandise. Once industrialists get involved with designers, then the fashion industry can really progress. Once this industry will get the required investment and the tools to get the efficiency it will definitely match up the international competitors, because in Pakistan there is no shortage of talent what we need are the resources to implement our ideas.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Consumers benefitting from the progress of the fashion industry Fashion Industry would have no definition without a creditable audience for its efforts.

21

Previously the only people who used to go to designer were those who wanted to show off their designer attire. This was very simply the case because everyone just couldnt afford to buy expensive designer clothes. They would compromise either on quality and cut or buy once and then create poor rip offs of the original. This lead to the women competing through clothes they created themselves rather than labels. The budget constrain had a damping effect on those few people who actually wanted to adopt fashion whereas there were numerous those in whose life fashion did not pay any role at all. This was also the main reason that emerged from research behind the slow progress of the fashion industry that people werent that concerned about their appearance before. As was apparent from the fact that 50% of the students said that they have bought clothes from labels many times. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 2) It is worth noting that as the influence and contribution of media grew the desire to look good and different also grew. This point was further validated by the fact that 66.67% of the students said that they were fashion conscious. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 1) It is also worthy of notice that Mrs. Ali said that everyone has a fashion sense now and consequently this has lead to increase in demand both here and abroad (personal communication, March 3, 2010). As competition among people accelerated to look good, according to Salina Khan, people are becoming more and more materialistic (personal communication, March 1, 2010). This opinion was also seconded by Sonia Khan (personal communication, March 17, 2010). Moreover, the recently popular trend to following fashion was also identified through qualitative research. It was surmised that predominantly students viewed fashion as an expression of self. (Refer to Appendix D, Question 11) The contribution this burgeoning demand for fashion would make to the progress would be invaluable as these would be the consumers of tomorrow and their increased desire to be the part of the norm is a positive indication for the future of the fashion industry. Bearing in mind the previous point, it was also discovered that as customers awareness has increased new designers have to be more creative and innovative in their ideas, as stated by

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Salina Khan that unless the newcomers are more innovative the demand would still remain for only those who have already made a name in this field (personal communication, March 1, 2010).

22

It was noticeable through the primary and secondary research that due to the increase in awareness in public the designers now have to pay more attention to their clients when advising them about cuts and colour. This demand is being catered side by side by the increased number of fashion shows and exhibitions both domestic and foreign. The fact that the industry is able to cater to the demand being generated is a positive sign that it does actually have a future contrary to popular belief. Fashion for many people used to be and in some cases still is a triviality and something of only inferior beings indulge in. Generally the people who are considered fashionable are also deemed to have a fantastical view of life that is slightly removed from the harsher realities of life. This negative view may stem from the fact that it is generally conceived as something the elite follow as it requires a lot of time and money as was stated by Hassan (2005). The pursuit of fashion by middle class was often snubbed as it was considered that they were trying to bridge the class differences. However, the arrival of new and fresh designers is rapidly filling up this discrepancy. It was also depicted through the qualitative research done that many people considered the availability of fashionable clothing for all to be a sign of the industrys progress. (Refer to Appendix D, Question 12) The key point of this argument is that the fashion industry is viewed adversely as it is considered an adversary of Islam and consequently considered vulgar. This anti Islamic behaviour had always been a hindrance to the fashion industrys progress and this is still the case to some extent. This was apparent by statements like fashion is something people with issues follow that were gathered through survey. (Refer to Appendix D, Question 10) Although only a handful of such responses were received they do depict the notoriety of fashion in the general public to some extent and takes us a step nearer to its cause. Keeping the above stated fact in mind, it is worthy of notice that in Pakistan the main purpose of attire for women was considered to be a basic necessity of life as a foreigner living in Pakistan was quoted by Daewood (2003): here, outfits are made with the intent of covering the

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) womans body and hiding its shape. This naturally hinders the designers creative juices from

23

flourishing as there is no room for daring experiments. This opinion is also upheld by the masses as 63% agreed with the statement that fashion is in fact leading to the objectification of women. It was interesting to note that this opinion was mostly expressed by males. Having considered this the research showed that although youngsters do face criticism from their elders especially parents for following fashion most of them stated that criticism doe not stops them from following the latest trend. Statements like Its all about what you feel best in and Fashion is a choice. Its not a big influence showed the well balanced approach with which the new generation views fashion. (Refer to Appendix D, Question 13) The negative way in which fashion is viewed was also apparent by Mrs. Alis response to the same question Well, not to my face (personal communication, March 3, 2010). In contrast to this Noureen Khans opinion was slightly more refined. She expressed her opinion that she didnt feel that fashion should be equaled to nudity however, it may be necessary for designers when they displayed their work abroad (personal communication, March 17, 2010). It is interesting to note at this point that all the designers interviewed were dressed very conservatively according to modern standard. This further reiterated the fact that fashion industry need not be in violation of Islamic beliefs and customs; rather it should be used to promote our culture and traditional dresses as stated by Sonia Khan (personal communication, March 17, 2010). The research also depicted that hijab is considered a very glamorous article of clothing by Salina Khan (personal communication, March 1, 2010). Another major misconception that was removed through the research was that fact that only females face criticism for following fashion. This misapprehension was removed when it was estimated through the qualitative questions that males too face criticism when they adhere to current fashion trends, especially on wearing shorts. (Refer to Appendix D, Question 13) Another aspect of fashion industrys demand is the burgeoning market abroad. It is interesting to note that contrary to popular belief the demand for traditional Pakistani clothes

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

24

does actually exist abroad. According to Noureen Khan, Pakistani designers are more in demand in countries like U.S.A. and Australia; mainly because of their unique cuts, colours and designs, than Indian designers (personal communication, March 17, 2010). Mrs. Ali also pointed out that the demand for eastern clothes does exist abroad as people want to look good and generally have big social circles, which propels them to demand more clothes (personal communication, March 3, 2010). Noureen Khan also said that when they cater to foreign clientele she does not have to alter her designs much as whatever is worn here is also worn abroad with a few slight alterations that convert a lehanga into a skirt. However, the main focus is always on the embellishments and the colours and that is what makes our designers standout in the international market (personal communication, March 17, 2010).

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Where does Fashion Industry stand today and how bright its future is?

25

A way to get on to the band wagon of international acclaim and to be taken seriously by the world as a progressive nation, Pakistan has embarked upon fashion weeks. Both secondary and primary research indicated that Pakistan is a country that is hungry for fashion with the hunger growing with emerging trends. Lawn exhibits, tailors at every corners, fabric shops and lace shops have been around forever and new prt stores are opening every year in the main urban areas. Fashion weeks are contributing a lot to the business and demand of the industry. On 12th April 2010, the second fashion week of the year 2010 will take place and the spot light will be on Karachi where renounced and upcoming designers like Faiz Agariah, Sania Maskatiya will be showcasing their designs. This is evident by the primary research conducted on the topic of how fashion shows playing an important role in the progress of fashion industry as 53.33% agreed with statement quoted above. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 4) Another important indicator of the industrys evolvement was detected through secondary research to be the sponsorship by LOreal Paris. This fact clearly illustrates that fashion Pakistan is a promising market and will be in the lime light in coming years. Ever since the explosion of the fashion industry in Pakistan the want more philosophy is prevailing like a fire in jungle. Judging by the amazing pace of the new designers and institutes fashion can now be truly considered as an industry. Sana Safinas Lawn 2010 was a quantum league that took the business of fashion to a whole new level. This is also emphasizes the fact that designers are making plethora of contribution to fashion industrys progress, as was depicted by the primary research that 26.7% of the people agreed with the fact that the contribution of designers were numerous and far reaching. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 3) The Sana Safinas lawn exhibitions are still the talk of town. Women went berserk, queuing up at the imperial in Karachi hours before exhibition was due to start causing traffic jams in both Karachi and Lahore, this only emphasis the average Pakistani womens hunger for fashion.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

26

The amazing thing about the exhibition was that the proposed three day exhibition came to an abrupt end on the second day as stocks ran out. This clearly illustrates the fact that designer prices are a good indication of for whom clothes are produced as 53.3% of people agreed with this statement. (Refer to Appendix C, Question 5) However, fashion retailers still have a long way to go in Pakistan. Zahir, a professional retailer of Pakistani clothes in Dubai, proposes to take 16 Pakistani designers to Dubai to stock regularly at Studio 8, a multi label store there. Meanwhile retailers like Chenone and Sanaullah hesitate before bringing designers on board to do a line. Synergies havent been created yet and clothing retailers remain quite obvious as to how fashion can lost their profile. Until this happens, the business of clothing retail is not going to flourish. These definitely have been steps taken in fashion retail with brands like Aamir adnan, Karma and ego coming in. The most recent addition in sheep that has been established by a textiles trading company. However, Ego and Sheep are not really platforms for budding designers. Meanwhile, Aamir adnan own the FNK ASIA enterprise and his wife Huma takes care of design front. Ditto with Karma where Saad ali own the growing chain of stores that sees clothing credited to one designer ,his spouse Maheen Kardar . Apart from mulitilabel stores that carry designers clothes on a commission or special rental basis, there is no one to take fashion further. The business of fashion here remains largely about each designers for himself. One wishes for collaborations between clothing retailness and the fashion world that are so needed to drive the business of fashion forward.Thakoon, an increasingly popular name is the U.S. got his big break when Anna Winter recommend him to GAP to make line for them. He hasnt looked back since. Its not rocket science!.Same is said by Salina , one of the best designers of Lahore said in its interview that new comers should be motivated because they have latest information plus fresh ideas and fresh designs and that can flourish our fashion industry {appendix} .In Pakisatan,it is the big guns of the textile industry who are cashing on the value addition provided by fashion .Various mills have picked up designers like Sonia battla and models like Zainab Qayyum (ZQ) and Vaneeza to design the lawn prints for them which are then sold at the premium at exhibitions. Its what SS did last year but this year they took their business one step further.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Previously, they also followed by the trend and usual route of making the clothing for textile manufacturer but this year they got a mill to make clothing for them!.After cost, all

27

profits go to SS. Marvelously enough, the sale of their clothing like the sale of their prt at stores both in Pakistan and India. Next year we can expect SS clothing to became even bigger. In terms of where they have taken their business within parameters of Pakistan Fashion, their Achievement is far greater, than that of Kate Moss . Heres hoping one or more of our big guns of textile or clothing retail would decide to emulate Sir Phillip Greenand soon! As you are well aware, the Pakistan fashion industry, though embryonic in international terms, has grown by leaps and bounds in the last ten or twelve years. As it continues to grow, it becomes critically important to institutionalize the Business of Fashion. Here, in Pakistan, fashion designing is thought of as something anyone can do, states designer Sonya Battla .Here is the example of the our Nations best fashion designer HSY who started his fashion career with just 2500rs and now 600 people are working under him and is supplying clothes all over the world and recently he was awarded as designer of the year in Pakistan.( appendix. interview of HSY).Parents usually dont allow their childrens to enter the fashion industry. AS thing is supported by our survey that 44 % people said that parent usually dont allow their childrens to enter the fashion industry.( appendix Questionnaire) where as HSY in his interview said that The fashion industry is very lucrative and is the third largest growing industry in the world worth billions of dollars. Like the software and computer industry its the fashion industry that is constantly growing. The largest industry in Pakistan is textiles and the textile industry is dying a slow death due to the lack of educated individuals entering it.(appendix. ) and one of our leading designer Sonia Khan told us in her interview that she had the support of her parents thats why she is at this place (appendix interviews ) PFDC is a institute opened by the GOVT, so it is our need to have more institutes so that more people can have proper education for fashion designing and then enter the fashion industry so that our fshion industry can have more designer and this fact is supported by 45 % people ( a survey conducted by my group in different places of Lahore) that we should have more institutes.( appendix questionnaire )

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Conclusion .

28

The fashion industry not only means that we just develop our clothing industry. There are other things that should be included in the fashion industry like jewelry, cosmetics, perfumes and accessories. Pakistan never compromise fashion that tends to deviate from norms pertaining to culture of Pakistan which is fusion of south Asian & central Asian cultures and we already know that many cultural practices have been inherited from Mughals. Pakistani culture is also a form of eastern culture which is popular throughout the world due to its uniqueness, exclusiveness and matchlessness which one can also find in eastern fashion. Overall, future of fashion industry in Pakistan appears to be fruitful. But this can only be possible if our designers keep on doing the good job.

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Appendix A Sample Questionnaire

29

LAHORE SCHOOL OF ECONOMICS Progress of Fashion Industry AGE: ____________. GENDER: ____________. EDUCATION: ______________. 1. Do you follow fashion changes? a) Yes b) No c) May be d) Dont know 2. How often do you buy clothes from labels? a) 1 b) 2 c) 3 d) 4 e) Many times 3. Which do you think has made more contribution to the fashion industry? a) Designers b) Institutes like PFDC, NCA etc. c) Media. 4. Are fashion shows playing an important role in the progress of fashion industry? a) Yes b) No c) May be d) Dont know 5. Do you think that designer prices are a good indication of for whom they produce clothes? a. b. c. d. Yes No Maybe Dont know

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

30

6. Do you blame the fashion industry for the objectification of women? a) Yes b) No 7. Do you think that the Pakistani fashion is dominated by western fashion?

a) Yes b) No c) May be 8. Is media promoting our fashion industry? a) Yes b) No c) Dont know 9. Do you think that our countrys political instability is affecting the progress of fashion industry? a) Yes b) No c ) Dont know 10. Do you think that parents generally dont want their children to enter the fashion industry? a) Yes b) No c) Sometimes d) Cant say 11. Do you see any progress in the fashion industry? If yes then what?

12. What is fashion to you?

13. Have you ever been criticized by a religious person on the way you dress and did it make you stop following fashion? ______________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Appendix B Effectee A (Designers) 1) Why did you choose this field? 2) What is your education? 3) How long have you been in this industry? 4) How was your experience during this journey? 5) What kind of hardships did you faced? 6) How do you define fashion? 7) How did you start? 8) Where does your business stand now and how much improvement you expect in future? 9) How your designs been influenced and by what over the years? 10) Do you foresee any increase in the number of investment in near future ? 11) Do you think that our industry is being influenced by the western fashion industry ? 12) Where do you get your inspiration from? 13) How long is your clientele and how long did it take you to build it? 14) What is fashion to you? 15) Do you think that our countrys political instability effects fashion industry? 16) Do you see any progress in fashion industry if yes then what? 17) Are your designers more eastern or western? 18) Do you put emphasis on cuts or embroidery or both? And why? 19) Do you cater to the foreign market differently than the domestic market? 20) What are the strategies you employ? 21) How widely does the demand vary here and abroad does it affect your designs? 22) Do you give more preference to consumer taste or international fashion changes when designing your clothes? 23) How do you amalgamate our culture for clothes design for foreigners? 24) Do you think that the future designers would be motivated by the same reasons as you to choose this field? 25) Do you think that they are better off now as compared to you because they have more opportunities? 26) Do you blame the fashion industry for the objectification of the women?

31

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) 27) Is media promoting the fashion industry to the best of its ability? 28) Do you think that hejab could be considered as fashionable? 29) Do you think that the increasing Trend to follow fashion is making people more materialistic? 30) Have you ever been criticized by a religious person on the way you dress? 31) Did your parents try to stop you from entering this field?

32

32) Why do you think that parents generally frown upon their children if they want to enter this industry? 33) Do you think there are many social impacts of the development of the industry? What are they? 34) Do you think that the industry is improving the economical conditions of the country? If so, Then how?

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Appendix B Effectee B (Consummers) 1) What is your name? 2) What is you education? 3) What is your occupation? 4) How do you define fashion? 5) What is fashion to you? 6) Do you think that our countrys political instability effects fashion industry? 7) Do you see any progress in fashion industry if yes then what? 8) Do you think there are many social impacts of the development of the industry? What are they?

33

9) Do you think that the industry is improving the economical conditions of the country? If so, Then how? 10) Do you blame the fashion industry for the objectification of the women? 11) Is media promoting the fashion industry to the best of its ability? 12) Do you think that hejab could be considered as fashionable? 13) Do you think that the increasing Trend to follow fashion is making people more materialistic? 14) Why do you demand clothes on such a regular basis? 15) Do you think there is a demand for Pakistani clothes in the west? 16) Do you see any progress in the Fashion Industry over the years? 17) If yes, then what is it? 18) What according to you are the social impacts of developing the industry? 19) What are the economical impacts of the progress of Fashion industry? 20) Have you ever been criticized by someone on the way you dress? 21) Do you blame the fashion industry for the way you dress?

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Appendix C Graphs

34

Q1 Do you follow fashion changes?

25 66.67% 20

Number of people

15

10 20% 5

13.33% 3.33%

0 Yes No May be Don't Know

Q2 How often do they buy from labels

Never Hardly ever Some times Often Many Times

23%

50%

4%

23%

0%

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

35

Q3 What has made more contribution to fashion industrys progress?

16 14 12 10 26.7% 8 6 4 2 0 Designers Institutes like NCA, PFDC etc Media 23.5% 50%

Q4 Are fashion shows paying an important role in the progress of fashion industry?
Don't know 3.33%

May be

10%

No

13.33%

Yes 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

53.33% 18

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

36

Q5 Do you think that designer prices are a good indication of for whom clothes are produced?
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 Yes No May be Don't know 20% 16.7% 10% 53.3%

Q6 Do you blame the fashion industry for the objectification of women?

No 37%

Yes 63%

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

37

Q7 Do you think that Pakistani Fashion is dominated by western Fashion?

16 14 12 10 8 20% 6 4 2 0 Yes No May be 30% 50%

Q8 Is media promoting Fashion Industry?

0% 3%

Yes No May be

97%

The Fashion Industry (Lahore)

38

Q9 Do you think that our country's political instability is affecting the progress of Fashion Industry?
46.67% 46.67%

6.67%

Yes

No

May be

Q10 Do you think that parents generally don't want their children to enter the Fashion Industry?
Yes No Sometimes 3% Can't say

44% 43%

10%

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Appendix D Qualitative Data Analysis Q11. What is fashion to you? Positive What ever feels good on your skin Comfort, style, class and sensuality Negative Following a trend blindly irrespective of whether it looks good or not

39

What people with issues follow

Current pervalent mode of dress

Trendy, casulal clothing Style

Least important thing in (my) life

Expression of self Fashion is choice Passion to look different Keeping up to date

Styling we do..

The pursuit of comfort Necessary these days..

Divert your attention from tentions

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Q12. Do you see any progress in the fashion industry? If yes then what is it?

40

Yes
Media coverage, more television channels regarding fashion

No

Just getting more coverage Fashion institutes

Increase in number of fashion designers Only trying to abdopt to western culture

Demand increase as people are more aware now

New trends More westernised Labels present

Fashion for every class

Better designed products

Better quality More creative More Fashion shows

More people entering this indutry

The Fashion Industry (Lahore) Q13. Have you ever been criticized by a religious person on the way you dress and did it stop you from following fashion? No

41

Didn't stop me Do whatever (I) want to do

I have never dressed that way

I don't follow fashion Sometimes by my father

At religious gatherings
Didn't stop wearing shorts

Fashion is a choice. It's not a big influence

It's all about what you feel best in. Critisim encourages me to follow