TECHNOBOTS ENGINE SOUND SIMULATOR

Part Numbers: Diesel 3803-210, Petrol 3803-211, Steam 3803-212

OVERVIEW
This is a universal engine sound module that can produce a variety of different engine sounds. In all cases the hardware module remains the same and the type of engine sound and its character are varied by firmware (i.e. the fitted software) alone.

The three software builds currently available implement multi-cylinder petrol, diesel or steam engines, the number of cylinders being a user selectable option by the use of a jumper link. In all cases the engine sound varies smoothly and proportionally with the throttle demand in both forward and reverse. The petrol and diesel engine variants have an idling time-out of around 20 seconds after which they run down and stop. Opening the throttle again causes the engine to re-start following a short cranking sound. The steam engine variant starts and stops immediately on throttle opening or closure. The unit can be used with any radio system, including PCM, that utilises the industry standard 1-2mSec servo signal. 'Neutral' (i.e. joystick at centre position) is assumed to be set at 1.5mSec and this condition is indicated by a case mounted LED which assists in setting the transmitter throttle trim. The unit is easily installed by removing the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) lead from your receiver and plugging in a lead from the sound unit in its place. The ESC lead then plugs into the sound unit, thereby obviating the need for a Y lead. The unit's electronics takes its power from the receiver, but the loudspeaker derives its power from either the model's main propulsion battery or a separate battery pack. Connections for speaker power and the loudspeaker itself are made using screw terminal blocks.

SPECIFICATIONS
Speed demand sensing method receiver throttle channel (unit has pass-through to ESC) Neutral (idling) signal condition 1.5mSec Receiver voltage (which powers the unit's electronics) 4.8V min to 6V max (this is usually supplied by a BEC which is often incorporated in the ESC) DO NOT USE A 6V LEAD ACID BATTERY a fully charged one of these can output as much as 6.6v Speaker impedance 8 ohm minimum (Technobots part no. 2400-015 recommended) Speaker supply voltage from zero to 12V (governs the volume of the unit) Power output approx 4W RMS @ 12V into 8 ohms (equates to 160W PMPO in today's modern hi-fi advertising terms!) Engine types 'petrol', 'diesel', 'steam' Number of cylinders petrol & diesel 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 steam 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 (link selection procedure) (link selection procedure)

Engine stop / start automatic, determined by throttle demand and idling period

INSTALLATION
General The unit may be mounted by the flanges on its case to a convenient location in the boat or vehicle. The case affords mechanical protection to the electronic circuitry and renders it splash resistant but certainly not waterproof, so in marine installations it should be mounted accordingly. The label on the unit's case lid identifies the type of engine sound, the connectors, their functions and polarities. (see figure 1) Figure 1 View of the unit label showing connector designations

This information is repeated on the silk screening of the circuit board (see figure 2). Wiring to the loudspeaker and the speaker power supply (0v and +12V) is made by way of screw terminal blocks on the circuit board and must be done with the unit's lid removed. The wires exit through milled slots in the edge of the case, so be sure to offer up the case lid correctly after the wires have been connected. Figure 2 View of the circuit board showing connectors and set-up link

Ideally the unit should be mounted close enough to the ESC for the latter's signal input lead to reach SKT1 on the unit, but failing that a servo extension lead can be used (Technobots part # 3601-003) Making up the RC lead for the connection to the receiver Unlike a servo extension lead, the lead to the receiver requires a male housing at each end. The male housings and wires required to make this lead are included with the sound unit. They have not been ready assembled as the polarity of some RC equipment manufacturers varies. Figure 3 pre-crimped wires and housings, as supplied

We follow the Futaba code where white is signal, red is positive and black is negative (0V). The housings do not have a polarity key, so they can be used in receivers that do not utilise this Futaba feature, such as Hitec and Spektrum. The wires are supplied pre-crimped and simply push into the housings. Look for the small barb on the crimp and insert the crimp so that the barb can engage in the slot on the housing. If the crimp is inserted upside down, it will easily pull out. Insert it the correct way and you will hear a click as it latches into position warning: removing them is difficult and could result in damage to the crimp so getting it right first time is certainly preferable. Follow the sequence of photographs below to make up your cable, remembering to follow the polarity of your own equipment when assembling the second (receiver) housing. Figure 4 Inserting a crimp into the housing Note triangle moulding in bottom left hand corner of the housing in this photo

Copying a servo lead or similar that you may already have makes the task even easier. For the housing that will mate with the sound unit, simply insert the white lead into the housing in the position identified by a raised arrow / triangle in the moulding. Then insert the red lead into the middle way which leaves just the black wire for the remaining way. At this stage the cable should appear as in figure 5. Figure 5 Partially assembled cable

Now assemble the remaining crimps into the housing destined to mate with your receiver. If this is Futaba or Futaba compatible then simply repeat the above insertions to complete your cable (see figure 6) Figure 6 Completed Futaba/Futaba compatible cable

Otherwise insert the crimps in the second housing to suit the polarity of your

receiver system. Note that a Futaba/Futaba cable is reversible whereas if you have made up a special cable then it is not, so mark the housings accordingly. To make up a longer lead, Technobots stock 300mm pre-crimped wires that fit the housings, or alternatively we can supply a servo extension lead to use in conjunction with the shorter male to male cable kit supplied. Both the ESC and Receiver leads are inserted side by side through a slot in the top of the case onto the three pin headers on the circuit board after the case has been screwed shut. Be sure to mate the connectors correctly, guided by the legends on the label (white to s, red to +, black to -) Wiring The installation diagram in figure 7 illustrates the typical interconnection of the major components of a basic RC model, prior to installing the sound unit. The main battery usually ranges between 6 to 12V and in the example shown, the Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) has a built-in Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC) which drops the receiver and servo voltage down to 5V. In the event that the ESC does not have an integral BEC then sometimes a separate receiver battery pack is used and is plugged into either a spare channel, or a dedicated battery slot on the receiver. Receiver battery packs are typically 4 AA cells, either 1.2V NiMh rechargeables or 1.5V primary cells. Figure 7 Typical wiring of an R/C model

As will be seen from figure 8, the sound unit is simply interposed between the receiver and the ESC, and takes its speaker power from the main battery. Figure 8 Wiring up the sound unit

Note the colours and orientation of the (Futaba standard) cables connecting receiver and ESC to the sound unit. The +12V supply to the sound unit and the speaker currents are very modest and thin multi-strand flexible cable of 1amp rating (or higher) can be used (Technobots 7/0.2mm Equipment Wire) Speaker Power Supply (0 to 15V) As the installation diagram shows this is usually taken from the main propulsion battery of the model. Correct polarity MUST be observed - battery positive to (+12V) and battery negative to (0V). A reverse connected battery will cause a high current to flow through the output stage of the unit and into the speaker and one or both may be damaged, probably permanently. Connection of these leads alone will NOT power the unit, and equally without these leads being connected there will be no sound output from the unit.

As the speaker signal is digital in nature, for simplicity, cost and efficiency the speaker is switched directly to its battery supply. This results in the output volume not being adjustable. To a very large degree, the quality and volume of sound produced will depend very largely on the speaker itself and the way it is mounted in the model. For example, if using the 6V propulsion battery the resultant sound is too quiet, or on 12V it is too loud then an auxiliary battery or batteries of higher or lower overall voltage may be used to achieve the volume level required. A pack of AA cells is quite adequate for this purpose, with the benefit that the number of cells may be easily adjusted. Mounting Of The Loudspeaker Inevitably the size and construction of the model may preclude the recommended speaker being used and if in addition its installation is less than ideal, then both the volume and quality of the sound will be compromised. If in any doubt as to the unit's capabilities, try connecting it to a music-centre loudspeaker and hear the result. Anything sounding less rewarding than this represents the magnitude of your personal battle to defy the laws of acoustics! Speakers are ideally mounted on a baffle this is usually a piece of wood whose width is about twice the diameter of the cone with a hole in it about the size of the cone (determined by the speaker mounting arrangement). The purpose of the baffle is to prevent the anti-phase sound waves from the rear of the cone 'leaking' round to cancel out the sound waves from the front. Hi-fi speaker cabinets are generally sealed to achieve this. The hull of a boat makes an excellent substitute if the speaker can be mounted beneath the cabin using the entire deck as a baffle and the sound can escape through open portholes, windows, doors or ventilation grilles. If you can't achieve that sort of set-up you can try the recommended Technobots 10W speaker facing upwards with a 50mm long, thick cardboard tube whose 75mm internal diameter is a snug fit over the inboard rigid rim surround of the speaker. The wall thickness of the tube is about 4/5mm being the inner former of a roll of heavy duty 50mm black pvc tape like you find in pound shops. That is stage one and modifies the sound interestingly then try the palm of your hand over the end of the tube - then use some of the black tape to seal it! Other users report good results from this sort of set-up with various lengths of sealed stout tube with a short stub opening at the tube top of maybe 10 to 20mm dia and about 20mm long. Before raiding the shops for cardboard tubes, try inverting an (empty) coffee mug over the top half of the speaker to judge the potential. If you make the sound sealing box too small the speaker will struggle to compress the air in it (the cone displacement must make a large percentage volumetric change)

and the volume and sound quality will suffer. The most demanding, with respect to both the speaker and mounting considerations, is the diesel unit; with the steam unit being the least.

TESTING
General Operation With the model on a stand to allow the propeller(s), wheels or tracks to run free, first centralise the throttle joystick and then switch on the transmitter. Now power the model; the red LED on the unit should be flickering, signifying the engine is stopped and the throttle channel is in the 'neutral' condition. Advance the throttle and the speaker should issue a short cranking sound (steam excepted) and the 'engine' should start and smoothly run up to full speed as the throttle is opened fully, the LED now being extinguished. With the joystick returned to the central position the engine should return to idling speed (or stop, if steam variant) and the LED should light. After some twenty seconds or so of idling the engine will run down to a stop and the LED will then flicker rapidly. It may be necessary to adjust the throttle trim on the transmitter to set this 'neutral' condition; the 'neutral' of the ESC may then require re-setting to ensure the motor is not 'creeping'. Subsequent opening of the throttle will automatically start the engine again. Setting the number of cylinders Switch off the receiver power from the unit and move the small jumper link LK1 to the SET-UP position then re-apply the receiver power to the unit. The unit inspects the position of the jumper link at every power up and if it is found in the SET-UP position it enters the cylinder selection mode. Figure 5 Jumper link setting positions

RUN mode

SET-UP mode

The unit issues a long beep and then begins to cycle through all the cylinder counts available, playing a few seconds of each variant with a short pause between each of them. The throttle control is inactive during this mode. When you hear the variant you wish to use, remove the link whilst it is playing or during the short pause immediately afterwards. The unit will then issue a short beep signifying that a selection has been made. That selection is then stored in the unit's memory and the unit commences normal operation. If after all variants have been demonstrated a selection has not been made, the unit will issue a long beep and start the selection cycle again.

Once a selection is made, the link may be parked in the RUN position. At the next power up the unit inspects the jumper position and now finding it the normal RUN position, it reads the user selected cylinder count from its memory and commences operation accordingly. Remember that cylinder selection mode can only be entered at power-up if the jumper link is found in the SET-UP position. Moving the link to that position following power-up will have no effect.

ASSISTANCE
Any problems or queries relating to the connection or operation of the unit are best dealt with by first visiting the Technobots Technical Support Forum to see if others have experienced your problem and an answer has already been posted. If not, then you can submit your query with the benefit that the answer you get will be available to future visitors to the support forum. Type http://www.technical.technobots.co.uk/ into your bowser or click on [Technical Support] at the left hand side of the main yellow menu bar on the main technobots shop website, then under Main Topics click on Robotics, Kits and Electronics and finally click on Technobots / Alan Bond Kits