A Matter of Taste Chapter Eight: Chinese-style Steamed Chicken with Lap Cheong Hey, Max. Gmorning.

Morning, Ginger, Max greeted his cousin-in-law as he sauntered into the dining room. Youre up early, Ginger noted, narrowing her eyes at him as she stirred a steaming mug of coffee. And youre dressed! Where are you off to today? Max blushed slightly as he blurted out, Chef Valerianos invited me to go on a foodwalk with her. Ginger raised an eyebrow at this, then seemed to remember something. Ah, its Wednesday, she remarked. Laines free on Wednesdays, though she sometimes heads either for Casa Palmera or her dads factory whenever shes bored. Im just curious, Max said as he sat down at the table. What does she do for a living these days? Aside from writing cookbooks, I mean. Business development, Ginger replied, handing Max a cup of coffee. She creates new products for Snappisnax. Oh. Speaking of Ginger went over to the sideboard and opened one of the large, clear plastic bins that held snacks. She pulled out a large, clear plastic sack filled with what appeared to be nacho chips in three colors: ordinary yellow ones, vivid orange, and deep indigo. She tossed the sack over to Max who deftly caught it. Shes currently working on these veggie-corn nachos and wants us to tell her what we think of them. Veggie-corn? Max looked at the chips somewhat dubiously. I kind of thought these were just a mix of regular, blue, and red corn. Yeah, thats what Puck and I thought, too, Ginger said as she returned to the table. But she says theyre made of corn mixed with carrots, beets, spinach, and malunggay. Healthy chips, then? Max said as he opened the bag. He took out a dark purplish-blue chip and sniffed at it. Popping it into his mouth, it crunched loudly between his teeth. Aside from the taste of corn, there was just the faintest hint of sweetness of beetroot which was sharpened somewhat by a light sprinkling of sea salt. It was delicious. Max could barely stop himself from getting a few more before passing the bag back to Ginger. Hey, these are pretty good!

Chips for breakfast? a sleepy voice exclaimed from the kitchen door. Isnt it a tad early for that? Gmorning, Sugar-cookie, Ginger greeted her husband who came to stand behind her chair and wrapped his arms around her as he kissed the crown of her head. You want coffee? Aye, thanks, Custard-cake. He eyed Max, an eyebrow raised. Chinatown today, aye? Best that ye not eat breakfast. Why not? Max asked, crunching the last of his chips. Och, theres so much to eat over there! Puck started enumerating his favorites to his cousin. Have the fried siopao over at Shanghai Fried, theres platters of dirt-cheap dumplins oer at Dong Bei och, and I cannae recommend their stuffed pancakes enough! an the noodles wi crunchy fried pork chop at Tasty Dumplings. And, if youre at Tasty Dumplings, better get their hong ma, Ginger chimed in, grinning. Thats braised pork in a sweet-salty sauce served with a loaf of deep-fried bread. Playfully, she nudged Puck in the ribs as he sat beside her. I remember bullying Puck to get me the stuff on an average of once a week when I was pregnant with Mack and Pepper! An theres milk tea Hong Kong style over at Wai Ying... Not to mention all the nice things available in all the little bakeries there! ...fresh lumpia thats spring rolls over at New Po Heng The fried chicken at Sincerity is sensational, by the way. Caf Mezzanines kiampong rocks and ye should nae miss the butchers shop there. Speaking of, Ill give you some money for some sausages, Ginger said. Im planning to make steamed chicken with Chinese sausage for dinner tonight. Max protested and said he would pay for the sausages. You dont let me do enough, he told them. So please let me pick up any incidental expenses; its the least I can do to thank you for taking me in. The Henstridges looked at each other and Puck patted Gingers shoulder. Let the lad, darlin, he told her with a resigned smile. Hell badger on and on about it if ye dont. Oh, all right, Ginger sighed. She regarded Max somewhat sternly. One thing, though. What is it? Max asked her. Ginger narrowed her eyes at him. Youd better clear the air with us about Melaine, she said. Youre goin to

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Max gaped at her, taken off guard by what she just said. When you arrived, you were rather stand-offish about her, Ginger continued. I pretty much assumed that things didnt quite end well between the two of you when she left the restaurant. Then I saw the two of you talking before her book launch and I was surprised at how comfortable you two seemed with each other. Ginger leaned forward, regarding Max intently. So weve figured: you dont hate her. I never said I hated her! Max exclaimed, looking quite uncomfortable as he squirmed in his seat. I just His voice trailed off as the doorbell rang. Grateful for an excuse to escape interrogation, he leapt to his feet to answer the front door. Hey, Melaine greeted him as he opened the door. Hi, he greeted her, somewhat abashed that she was there. I just came to ask if youre ready to go, she said. Oh. Max sighed in relief. He ushered her in and motioned for her to join Puck and Ginger in the dining room. Have a cup of coffee with the folks, he said. Ill just go get my knapsack.

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As Melaine skillfully drove her little yellow Chery QQ a Chinese import whose front end looked like Pikachu from Makati to Manila, Max couldnt help but compare the Philippine capital to Glasgow. Both cities were port cities. Both cities had endured wars, political upheavals, economic trials, as well as armed and peaceful uprisings by their citizens at one point or another. There was an air of decaying grandeur that contrasted sharply with slick office buildings and swanky shopping malls. The dingy side streets and beggars shared the city with coffee-sipping

executives hanging around the high streets. Max found the combination intriguing and was fascinated by the ceaseless banter on the radio; Melaine translated for him and he pretty much came to the conclusion that no country on Earth was ever really happy with what its government did for it.

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They drove into a compound surrounded by high, whitewashed walls that was but a short walk away from Chinatown. Melaine slid her car into one of the parking slots and smiled at Max. Were here, she said. This is Snappisnax; the other side of our family business. I just need to drop something off with my dad and we can just walk to Chinatown. Okay. As they got out of the car, Max breathed in a delicious scent of baking biscuits coming from the factory. Nearby, a stately gentleman was stepping out of an olive-green SUV. Dressed in a white short-sleeved barong Tagalog over black pants, his salt-and-pepper hair and beard immaculately groomed, the gentleman gave the impression of being a man of power and authority. A benevolent one, as a matter of fact, given the kindly expression on his face as Melaine and Max drew closer. Papa! Melaine declared, running into the older gentlemans embrace. Buenos dias, mi niina! the gentleman bellowed cheerfully as he hugged her. What are you doing here? Youre supposed to be off today. Si, Melaine nodded in agreement. She pulled a sheaf of paper out of her messenger bag and handed it to her father. I just wanted to drop off the comment sheets for the new veggie chips. People actually liked them better than the first two formulations. So, more carrot and beet, less spinach and malunggay then? Mr. Valeriano put on a pair of glasses and looked over the score sheets. Looks like it. Melaine turned and nodded for Max to come forward. You remember Chef Balfour, Papa? Mr. Valeriano peered over the rims of his glasses and extended a hand to Max. Ah, Don Maximilian, he said by way of greeting, addressing Max in the Spanish manner of addressing noblemen. Good to see you. Seor Valeriano, Max replied, politely inclining his head as he shook hands. How are you? Im good, hijo, the old gentleman assured him. What about you? You seem to be getting more sleep. Max managed a small smile. I am, he replied. Its weird, but Ive been getting more rest since I got here a few weeks ago.

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Mr. Valeriano beamed at him and patted his shoulder. I think you just needed a change of scenery, he boomed pleasantly. But, come: why dont you and Melisande-Elaine join me for a cup of coffee? Max shot Melaine an amused look and saw her wince as her father used her full name. Papa, I invited Chef Balfour to spend the day in Binondo, she informed her father. If we eat now, I dont think well be able to enjoy all the treats well encounter on the way! Mr. Valeriano laughed at that and gave Melaines ponytailed hair a playful tug. Oh, all right, he said with mock-reluctance, brown eyes glinting with fun. But, Ill feel put out with both of you if you dont pass by my office on your way home later. Melaine grinned and kissed her fathers cheek. Well stop by, she assured him. Ill get you a couple of your favorite treats. Machang and an oyster cake, Mr. Valeriano reminded her. He reached into his back pocket for his wallet. Oh, and if there are cherries, go get your Mamita a couple kilos. Ill pay for them, Papa. Mr. Valeriano shook his head and handed her a few crisp bills. Throw in a few peaches for me, too, he instructed her. Okay, if you insist. Mr. Valeriano chuckled and pinched Melaines cheek as he turned to go into the factory. He smiled rather paternally as he passed by Max and patted the young mans shoulder. Take care, you two! he called. No problem! Melaine yelled back. Melisande-Elaine? Max asked in an amused tone as they exited the Snappisnax compound. Yeah, unfortunately, Melaine sighed rolling her eyes. Papa and Mamita plague me by calling me that to my face. Well, if you want my two cents which I doubt! its a pretty-sounding name, Max said as they approached the dragon gate leading into Chinatown. It suits you, he thought, sliding a glance at her. Thanks, Melaine replied, grimacing. It sounds so old-fashioned, though. Thank goodness, everyone else shortened it to Melaine instead though people did call me Lennie as a kid.

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Lennie, Max murmured somewhat abstractedly. That was the name of the first girl I ever kissed. When he turned to look at Melaine, he saw that shed raised one eyebrow. I was three, he chuckled. My parents and I were visiting Pucks family here and I got lost for some strange reason. Lennie found me crying and took me back to Pucks house. An odd feeling began to nag at the back of Maxs head, but he ignored it. I kissed her when I said thank you. Melaine said nothing, but led the way towards the massive Spanish-period church that seemed to be the epicenter of Binondo. Its one of the oldest in the city, she informed Max. We can look in if you want. Maybe a bit later, Max suggested, catching a whiff of something good close by. Do you suppose we could grab some breakfast? To emphasize his point, his stomach began to rumble. All I had at home was a cup of coffee and some of those chips you asked your friends to try. Ginger let you taste the chips? Melaine asked. Yeah, they were good. She smiled at him and led the way to a small restaurant in the street behind the church. It was a tiny hole-in-the-wall with just three tables. There were hand-written menus taped to the walls. A Chinese couple and a pair of Filipina helpers worked in a corner, pulling noodles by hand or filling dumplings with what appeared to be a mixture of pork and minced chives. In rather stilted Chinese, Melaine greeted the couple with a short bow and Max supposed she was rattling off an order, seeing how she seemed to be counting her fingers. They grabbed a table in the corner of the little shop, giving Max an opportunity to study Melaine. Her chestnut hair was pulled back in a pert little chignon and her face was beautifully clear. Despite the fact that she was simply dressed in baggy jeans and a plain blue T-shirt, she carried herself like a queen. Something wrong, Balfour? she asked when she noticed him looking at her. Uh, no! Max exclaimed, somewhat abashed. You look, well, different is all. What do you mean? Well Max drew a deep breath and blurted, You arent half as bitchy as you used to be. You smile. You laugh. Youre actually nice to people. I havent heard you say anything snarky since I got here. Should I say something snarky then? I

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Melaine threw him a smirk an expression he actually missed when she left. Well, Im amazed your shadow isnt with you, she said rather coolly. Shadow? Lazarby your little blonde shadow. Shes not with you. She doesnt know Im here. Max drew a deep breath. She doesnt know where I am. What? Melaine stared at him in consternation. Youre not serious! Max nodded. Im dead serious, he said in a tight voice. Remember when you called me up for my birthday and the lads and I were at Macaulays? Yeah, what about it? Before you called, I called Gemma to tell her what happened. Max grimaced as he spoke; the memory of Gemmas callousness still rankled at him. All she seemed to hear was that I quit the restaurant and she started nattering on and on about how it was bloody time I quit, that it was a good thing, that I could join her dads business. Melaine regarded him, puzzled by this. But isnt her dad an accountant? she asked. Yeah. And arent you a political science major? Yup. Fuck it all! Melaine exclaimed. What would you do at an accounting firm?! Exactly my point! Max exclaimed, grateful that Melaine seemed to share his opinion. Every single time I tried to tell her what happened how I collapsed at work and all that her mouth goes on auto-pilot and she chatters on with the same spiel. He mimicked Gemmas reedy voice, her simpering manner. Oh, Max! How lovely! Dad will be so stoked to have you! He shuddered visibly, his very being reeling away from even the notion of Gemma Lazarby. It got to the point that I ended up asking myself whatever did I see in her in the first place. That bad? Melaine clucked her tongue at that. But Max Max looked up sharply. In all the years theyd known each other, this was the very first time she called him by his first name. havent you two been together for years? He nodded as their food arrived. Since we were freshmen at Oxford, he agreed. I guess I was fascinated by how bubbly she was at the time, so friendly. He managed a wry grin. Quite the opposite of me, as a matter of fact.

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So it was a case of opposites attract? Pretty much so, yes. Max sighed. I hoped we could make something out of it, he admitted. I guess I just didnt count on us growing so far apart. Melaine said nothing at that. Instead, she pushed the platter of chive dumplings towards Max. Better start eating before they go cold, she said, her voice surprisingly warm and gentle. Thanks, Max replied, picking up his chopsticks. What about you? Arent you going to eat? Presently, one of the helpers placed a bowl before Melaine. It was filled with fresh white noodles topped with what appeared to be a chunky black bean sauce and shredded cucumber. I cant blame you for feeling that way, Melaine said as she stirred the sauce and cucumber shreds into her bowl of noodles. Its always hard when you realize that the person you love isnt the same person you fell in love with. Judging from the tone of your voice, Max said, you seem to be talking from experience. I am, Melaine agreed without even the faintest trace of rancor. Max put down his chopsticks and regarded her frankly. I hope you dont mind me asking, he said softly. Shoot; go ahead. I take it the guy you liked married someone else? Melaine looked up, a sad smile on her face. I wish I could say he did, she said. But I cant. He committed suicide nearly ten years ago. Oh, God! Max gasped in horror. I Im sorry. I didnt mean to I know you didnt, Melaine assured him. No offense meant and none taken; dont worry. And here I thought agonizing over Gemma was bad enough. Thoughtfully, Max picked up a dumpling and dunked it in the small saucer of black vinegar that came with the platter. So, what are you going to do about her? Melaine asked between bites.

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I want out of the whole thing, Max replied honestly, popping the dumpling into his mouth. I just wish there was an easy way out of it. Theres never an easy way out of a breakup, Max. True, Max sighed, picking up another dumpling. He smiled at her. Um Yeah? Seeing how you just called me Max, is it okay if I called you Melaine? he asked her. I mean, Valeriano is such a mouthful. She smiled sincerely and nodded her approval.

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Maybe we ought to have borrowed a truck from your dads factory, Max remarked at the growing number of packages that were making their way into their respective knapsacks. Yeah, I guess so, Melaine agreed. Walking from one end of Chinatown to the other, they spent a pleasant day roaming through the streets, sampling the wares of just about every shop. With Melaine translating for him, Max even got a chance to go behind the scenes at a small store that sold preserved meats and saw first hand how the proprietor made the lap cheong, pata jamon, and char siu that were his stock in trade. He didnt know when or even how it happened, but he only realized that Melaines hand was in his when they got back to the church. Want to step in for a bit? she asked. Sure, he replied. Max found himself kneeling in prayer in one of the pews while Melaine went to the church office, ostensibly to offer a thanksgiving Mass on her fathers behalf. Admittedly, he wasnt very religious. But today, Max bent his head and sent up a fervent prayer that things would work out and that, even if they didnt, he was grateful that he had at least one friend who understood how he felt. As he rose to his feet, he saw Melaine lighting candles in the area reserved for votive lights. As he approached, he noticed that she bent her head and prayed and he caught her last words:

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Please take care of Max, Lord, she said. Hes a cranky sort, but hes a good boy at heart. He needs all the help that he can get. When she finished, she turned and was startled to see him standing behind her. Thanks for praying for me, he told her sincerely. You need the prayers, she assured him, resting a hand on his arm. And thanks for taking me out today. I had fun and boy, Im stuffed! Its nothing, Max. Im glad you had fun. Er Sheepishly, Max asked if she was busy on Saturdays. I was thinking if you wanted to go see a movie or something with me. Well, thats if you dont mind. In response, she smiled up at him and linked her arm with his. Sounds fun, she said. Ill be glad to go.

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Chinese-style Steamed Chicken and Sausage For the chicken marinade: 1-inch piece of ginger, peeled and crushed 3 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons dark rum or rice wine 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 teaspoons granulated white sugar For the rest of the dish: 6 chicken thigh fillets 3 Chinese sausages, sliced on the bias 1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into chunky half-moons 1 medium taro, peeled and cut into chunky strips Scant kilo shiitake mushrooms, sliced 3 stalks spring onion (green part only), minced Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a non-reactive bowl. Add the chicken and leave to soak for an hour or overnight.

Preheat a steamer. In a shallow dish that can fit into the steamer, place the marinated fillets, sausage, taro, mushrooms, and carrot. Pour over some of the marinade. Cover and steam for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

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Transfer the steamed food into a serving dish and scatter the minced green onion on top.

Serves 6.

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