Patchwork

Patchwork in different shapes and size appear on many early American quilt. Even today it is afashion. This particular one is based on the eight-point Lone Star design. It will brighten your sitting room or study room. If you are using simple patchwork, plan your design on a paper with pencils before beginning your work.

Materials

y y y y y y y y y y y y y y y y y

Tracing Paper Thin Card Blue velvet Fabric or any type of fabric 12.5 x20cm/5x8 in peach velvet fabric 12.5x20cm/5x8 in light green velvet fabric 20x40cm/8x16in backing paper Tacking (Basting) thread Matching sewing thread Dried herbs or cotton Button Pencil Scissors Dressmaker's Scissors Ruler Needle Iron Dressmaker's pins

Procedure to make a patchwork sachet:

Trace diagonal, square, and triangle shaped designs. Cut eight diamonds, four squares and four triangles on a thin card. Use your templates to trace the correct number of shapes onto the lengthwise grain of each fabric. Add a (6mm)1/4 inch seam allowance and cut out four light green and four peach diamonds, four blue squares and four blue triangles from fabric. Cut the backing paper of the same shape of the templates. Place these backing paper of each shape, turn the joint over the paper, folding at the points, tack in place.

Stitch one piece of peach and green diamond together along one edge, then sew a blue square at a right angle. Make four of these units and join together all these units in such a way that the square pieces comes at the four edges, so that it looks like a star. Sew the blue triangles on to the remaining spaces to complete the square. Iron lightly and remove all the tacking threads. Cut a 19cm/71/2 in square from the remaining blue fabric and iron a 5mm/1/4in seam evenly all round. With wrong sides together, pin this square to the patch work and overstitch around the outside edge leaving a 7.5cm/3 in gap on one side. Fill with herbs or cotton and sew up the opening. Finish off by sewing a button to the centre of the star.

Bricks and Cobblestones Quilt

Quilt Fabrics Choose bright geometrics, dots, stripes, tone on tones and small prints. The block examples on page 3 and page 4 are made with a tone-on-tone for either fabric #1 or fabric #2, and a print for the other fabric in the block. Refer to the quilt block diagrams on page 2 for assembly schematics. One of our community members wrote to suggest using noodles for this quilt block. What a great idea -- thank you Sally! Cobblestone Quilt Blocks Each cobblestone is 6 1/2" X 6 1/2" unfinished (before sewing to neighbors)

y y y

Fabric 1: cut one 2-1/2" X 2-1/2" square Fabric 2: cut two 2-1/2" X 2-1/2" square, and cut two 2-1/2" X 6-1/2" rectangles

Brick Quilt Blocks Each cobblestone is 6-1/2" X 12-1/2" unfinished (before sewing to neighbors)

y y y

Fabric 1: cut one 2-1/2" X 8-1/2" rectangle Fabric 2: cut two 2-1/2" X 2-1/2" squares and cut two 2-1/2" X 12-1/2" rectangles

Remember to use two different fabrics per block if you want to make a quilt like the one in the photo above. For example, if you choose a tone-on-tone for Fabric 1, choose a bright print for Fabric 2.

Assemble the Cobblestone Quilt Blocks 1. Gather fabrics set aside for a Cobblestone quilt block. Sew a 2-1/2" Fabric 2 square to opposite sides of a 2-1/2" Fabric 1 square. Press seam allowances either direction. 2. Sew a Fabric 2 rectangle to each long edge of the row you assembled in Step 1. Press seam allowances either direction. 3. Repeat to make additional cobblestone blocks. Assemble the Brick Quilt Block 1. Gather fabrics set aside for a Brick quilt block. Sew a 2-1/2" Fabric 2 square to each short side of the 2-1/2" x 8-1/2" Fabric 2 rectangle. Press seam allowances either direction. 2. Sew a 2-1/2" x 12-1/2" Fabric 2 rectangle to each long edge of the row you assembled in Step 1. Press seam allowances either direction. 3. Repeat to make additional brick blocks.

Two cobblestones and one brick quilt block.

Endless Stairs Quilt Block Pattern

Materials Required for One Block Blue fabric: (1) 3" x 19" strip. This can be a medium to a dark. The fabric should definitely read as blue, and can be a print, a tone on tone or a mottled fabric. Do not use large multicolor prints that appear to be a mix of several colors from a distance. Blue should be dominant. My blue is somewhat directional, but works okay for this block. Please avoid stripes. Neutral: (1) 2" x 19" strip. This can also be a print, a tone on tone or a mottled fabric, but the same guidelines apply -- creamy neutrals, white, even gray -- but the neutral should rule. The print I used in the example block is actually a creamy neutral color, not yellow, but my photos are a bit off. See page 3 for more examples, and pages 4 and 5 for layout ideas. Refer to the guidelines for the number of blocks you can enter in the event, and for info about duplicates. But in general, please do not make two identical blocks. However, you can use the same blue fabric with a different neutral, and the same neutral with a different blue. Cutting strips from the longest edge of a fat quarter produces strips slightly longer than necessary, but offers plenty of squaring-up room. 1. Sew your strips together lengthwise as shown. Press seam allowance towards the blue fabric. 2. Square up one end of the strip set and then cut (4) 4-1/2" segments from it. Sew the Endless Stairs Quilt Block 1. Arrange the four block segments into two rows as shown, left. 2. Sew the components of the top and bottom rows together, center photo. Press seam allowance toward the unpieced panels (blue for top row, cream for bottom). 3. Join the rows, butting the center seams for a perfect match and making sure all other edges are aligned. Press. The quilt block should measure 8-1/2" x 8-1/2".

Patchwork Quilt

Instructions
Things You'll Need
y y y y Measuring tape Large basket (optional) Fabric Colored pencils or markers

1Decide on the finished size of your project right from the start. Measure the bed or
the space where you are going to put your patchwork quilt. The bigger and more complex your project is, the longer it will take to complete. Write your measurements down. How thick do you want your quilt to be---heavy and warm for the winter or light and cool for a summer room? Batting specially made for quilting is available in a wide range of sizes and types.

Creating a color scheme is essential to any design plan. A traditional patchwork quilt is made of fabric squares in many colors, arranged to appeal. Try taking a large basket and filling it up with patchwork squares and swatches of fabric. Include a few small objects with interesting color or texture. Take the basket to your work table and evaluate your choices. Look for combinations of color that are pleasing and/or suited to your decorating scheme. Try arranging two or more colors or several shades of the same color together. Strive to establish a continuity of color that will carry throughout the completed quilt.

Selecting same or similar kinds of fabrics is important to good design. Cotton, muslin and linen are the most durable. Is your quilt going to be used frequently? Avoid stretchy or lightweight fabrics.

Deciding on the size of your patches makes a difference in the amount of sewing that you will be doing. If you enjoy sewing, you might use small, 2 inch squares. Be sure to add an extra to inch seam allowance to the sides of each patch when cutting them. Try embroidering some solid color, plain squares if you like to embroider. Do you even want the patches to be square? Traditional patchwork quilts include triangle and rectangular shapes, too.

5
Consider how you will quilt your project. A patchwork design is traditionally quilted (sewn) in a grid-type pattern following the edges of the squares or groups of squares. Block pattern designs, available in many books and online, are a form of stylized patchwork. Small pieces in many shapes are combined to make a larger square or block. Quilting templates and patterns are also available if you choose not to follow the grid pattern.

Determine your focal point. Good patchwork quilt design includes a focal point. Think about the elements already discussed. Often, the focal point is a quilter's favorite part of the process or her strongest skill. Do you enjoy sewing a lot of tiny pieces together? If so, use smaller squares. If you would like a more complex quilting pattern, you will need to buy or make a template for sketching the design on your top patchwork panel. If color matching is your focal point or your strongest skill, make your color scheme the focal point of your project.

Sketch your patchwork quilt ideas on paper, and make a design plan. Sketch an outline of the completed quilt and plot measurements for the sides (with and without a seam allowance). If you plan to include a border, include those measurements in your drawing. On a separate sheet of paper, draw a grid scaled to the finished project to determine how many squares you need in each row and column to suit your measurements. Use color pencils or markers to plan an effective color design.

8
Decide what type of backing you want to use. For everyday use, a soft, comfortable fabric in a matching color may serve you well. For a more elaborate design, work two design plans and make a reversible quilt. The design is completely up to you.

Pansy Pincushion

For three pincushions, you will need: 1/8 yard for the flower 1/8 yard for the front and back 1/8 yard paper backed adhesive perle cotton or embroidery floss needle filler of your choice

Cut the back and front background squares 4 1/2". Trace the pansy petals on to paper backed adhesive. Iron on to flower fabric. Cut out pansy petals, layer the pieces in numerical sequence and fuse to background fabric. Buttonhole stitch applique around the pansy petals and embroider the detail on the pansy. Place completed pincushion top and back right sides together and stitch around all sides with 1/4" seam allowance leaving a 2" opening on one side. Turn right side out, fill with your favorite filler and slip stitch opening closed. Please enlarge the image above to 150% for proper size, if you are printing out in Internet Explorer. Netscape users appear to receive the image in its proper size. Image size should be 3 3/4" square.

Coffin Star Quilt Block Pattern

Coffin Star Quilt Block Pattern Coffin Star is a multi-fabric patchwork quilt block that you can tailor to any color scheme. Assemble the quilt blocks one piece at a time, or construct strip sets to put them together more quickly. The block's central patchwork (a 16-patch unit) is surrounded by easy to cut setting triangles. Oversize setting triangles are an option, and offer a unique look -- they completely encircle the center design and make it appear to float. Finished block size: 12" x 12" as shown

Assemble the Coffin Star Quilt Block Although the illustration shows a scrappy quilt block, you can make the Coffin Star as scrappy or orderly as you desire. For an orderly block, choose as few as two contrasting fabrics and alternate them from row to row.

Or, assemble strip sets as shown above and then cut segments from them to create ready-made rows for the block. Strip pieced scrap quilts are doable -- instead of using long, selvage-width strips, construct more sets from shorter strips, varying fabrics as much as possible in each set. Assemble Coffin Star's Patchwork Center One Piece at a Time Cut sixteen 2-5/8" x 2-5/8" squares (use at least two different fabrics, or go as scrappy as you like). Sew the squares into four rows, each row with four squares. Press seam allowances in adjoining rows in opposite directions and join the rows. Press. Or, Assemble Several Coffin Star Centers with Strip Piecing Techniques Think about your needs:

y y y y

Remember that you will need four rows for each quilt block Each row has four squares (four strips of fabric required) Each strip in a strip set should be 2-5/8" wide You'll cut 2-5/8" segments from the completed strip set

So let's do a what if example for four strip sets, each producing four segments. Use 16 different fabrics, or repeat fabrics here and there. Place contrasting fabrics side by side if you like, or let the arrangement be totally random. 1. Cut sixteen strips of fabric, each 2-5/8" x 11". 2. Sew four strips together lengthwise as illustrated. Press seam allowances one direction. 3. Square up one end of the strip set, taking off as little length as possible. Beginning at the squared up edge, cut (4) 2-5/8" segments from the strip set. 4. Repeat, making four more strip sets and cutting four segments from each for a total of 16 segments. 5. Choose four different segments and sew them together into rows to create a patchwork center for the Coffin Star quilt block. If necessary, gently re-press seam allowances in a row to help make seam alignment easier. 6. Press the 16-patch unit. It should measure 11" x 11" (don't panic if it is slightly off). 7. Make three more block centers from the remaining row segments. 8. Cut two 6-7/8" x 6-7/8" squares of your background fabric. Cut each square in half once diagonally. Fold each resulting triangle in half to find the center point along its longest edge (or trim triangle tips to make match-ups a breeze). 9. Center and sew a triangle to each of the four sides of the patchwork center. Cut additional backgrounds and repeat to finish remaining Coffin Star quilt blocks. Remember that you can use longer strip sets to make larger batches of identical row segments.

Cathedral Windows Rag Quilt Pattern

We'll cut circles that measure 8-1/2" in diameter. You should be able to cut five circles from fabrics that measure 44" from selvage-to-selvage. Other diameters work just as well. Try 10" circles (you can cut four across if your fabric measures at least 42" wide) or choose a different size. For a miniature quilt, go with 3-1/2" or 4" diameter circles, and try a 1/4" or 3/8" seam allowance rather than the 1/2" seams we'll use for this larger quilt. If you don't want to bother with making a template, find a sturdy circular object to use instead, like a dinner plate, the lid to a large shortening or coffee can, or something similar. Finished sizes will differ, and so will yardage, but it's easy to add or subtract circles from rows to adjust the dimensions of the quilt. Sew into sandwiches with a 1/2" seam allowance, using your machine to gauge the distance. Mark center squares (later instructions) after sandwiches are sewn. If you do use a template, construct a window version, which makes it easy to mark both the cutting line and seam line without moving the template. Finished quilt size: About 30" x 30" Yardage: minimum 43" wide not including selvages 1-1/3 yards of three fabrics: a dark, a light and a flannel Determine yardage for another circle size, larger quilt or narrower fabric by using the method below: 1. Measure the width of your fabrics (not counting selvages). 2. Divide the width by the size of the circle (for instance, 43 wide / 8.5 circle = 5.05, or 5 cuts across width). 3. How many circles do you need, and how much yardage will they require? Example: for 50 (required) by the 5 (circles possible across fabric width), which equals 10 (10 circles along the fabric length and 5 across = 50). Be sure to plug in your own numbers.

4. Multiply the number of cuts required along fabric length, (10) times 8.5" per cut = 85". 5. Divide the result for your circle size by 36" (the length of a yard). For the circles in the example, that equals 2.36. Round up to compensate for errors and/or shrinkage -- 2.625, or 2-5/8 yards of each fabric. A Decimal to Fraction Conversion Chart might be of help during yardage calculations.

The graphic shows the progression of marking a single circle, but your circles will actually be marked side by side along the width of fabric. Circles can be marked along pre-cut 8-1/2" wide strips of fabric, or side by side on the entire yardage. 1. Make a window template using my 8-1/2" circle pattern. Print the pattern at 100% -- do not allow your printer to scale the file. 2. Find the fabric that will be on the front, raggy side of the quilt. Place pressed yardage (or fabric strip) right side up on a hard surface. Position your template near the top edge of fabric, avoiding the tightly bound selvage. Use a fabric marking pencil to draw around the inner and outer edges of the circle template (use a pencil with a line that will stay intact during handling; loose chalk will rub off). 3. Draw another circle next to the first, letting outer lines touch to conserve fabric. Continue drawing circles across the fabric. Repeat until you have 25 circles. 4. Make a 5-1/4" x 5-1/4" square template (not a window template). True size is actually a tiny bit larger than that, but the difference is taken up by the seam line). 5. Center the square template inside a circle, adjusting it until its four corners all touch the inner line as illustrated (align all in the same manner for directional fabrics). Trace around the square. 6. Repeat for all circles. 7. Stack fabrics, placing your marked fabric right side up on top, the flannel layer under it, and the backing fabric right side down behind the flannel. Press to help fabrics adhere to each other (or place a pin at the center of each circle to keep fabrics from shifting). 8. Cut out circles on the outermost line, making your cuts through all three layers. 9. Sew each circle sandwich together on the inner, circular line. Seams may be slightly visible when the quilt is finished (depending on the amount of fray) so use a neutral thread color or one that works with your fabrics. 10. Clip into each seam allowance, making cuts about 1/4" apart and perpendicular to the seam line, but ending just before it. (Illustration) I have read instructions that direct you to clip seam allowances after the circles are sewn together. I prefer to do it beforehand, for a couple of reasons: If you cut too far inward and clip a seam (which is easy to do) later sewing steps will correct the problem. Clipping seams now eliminates the possibility of accidentally clipping into the assembled layers.

y y

Cons of Pre-Clipping:

The clipped edges can get in the way a bit when you are sewing circles together (pressing helps eliminate the problem).

Squares for Different Size Circles To calculate the square size for any circle, divide the circle's finished size (1" less than its cut size) by 1.42. Round to the closest dimension that you can easily cut. Or, align a square ruler on the seam until three of its sides rest on the same number. Use that dimension for your template.

The squares drawn within each circle are the lines you'll use to sew the circles together. The photograph shows two circles already sewn together (left) with two more ready to be sewn (right). Lines may not be fully visible in this reduced shot. Before you begin, arrange your circle sandwiches into five rows of five circles each. Do you want the same fabric to be visible on the front of the quilt, or would you prefer a different layout? Play with the possibilities before you begin to sew. If you flip-flop fabrics from front to back in some areas, you will most likely need to draw a square within the circle of the unmarked fabric, but that can be done during assembly. To preview the layout, use pins to attach circular sandwiches along marked lines. flipping the circular sections into place just as they'd be after seams are sewn. Two things to remember during assembly: Sandwiches are positioned backing-sides-together for sewing. If you reverse some pieces, the fabric used for each will not be consistent. Always ask yourself "which sides am I using for a backing" before you sew. Do not sew across circular seam lines. It's important to sew right up to the line, and you can go a stitch beyond, but no further.

Let's Sew the Cathedral Windows Rag Quillt 1. Grab two of your circle sandwiches. Align the sandwiches, backing sides together. Make sure the drawn squares of each sandwich are matched by stabbing a pin through the top right corner of one circle's square and following through to pass it through the corner of the circle below.

2. 3. 4.

5.

Repeat to match corners at the bottom right of the circles. (Move the pins to keep them away from the seam, taking care to hold the fabrics together while you make the move.) Sew a seam along the line between the pins, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam. Do not sew more than a stitch past either circular seam line. Add another circle to the right side of the unit. Continue adding circles until the row is complete. Press the row gently. Hold down ragged areas between circles with pins if you like. Sew around each of the ovals created where circles are joined, placing your seams on top of or slightly to one side of the existing seam (existing seams are the seams you sewed to connect all parts of the sandwich). Construct the remaining rows of the quilt.

Rows are sewn together much like you attached the circles to each other, sewing individual sandwiches together along the lines created by drawn squares, and not sewing past existing seam lines. 1. Align two rows backing sides together. 2. Starting at the left edge, pin and align the first circle in each row. Sew a seam on the line, backstitching at its beginning and end. Do not sew across the seam line used to sew each sandwich together, and be sure to push the contents of that allowance aside as you sew the straight seam. 3. Sew the remaining circles together in the same way, one by one, until the two rows are completely attached. 4. Attach remaining rows. 5. Open the curved areas, pressing them down and pinning if necessary to keep them flat. 6. Sew the horizontal curves to the quilt as you did the curves between units in rows -- with one difference. Sew a continuous line along the curves, snaking in a flattened S-pattern as you reach the intersection of two arches. Turn around and sew in the opposite direction. 7. Sew a reinforcing seam around the outer edges of the quilt, right next to the original curved seam lines. 8. Wash the quilt as directed in Rag Quilt General Instructions. Clip loose threads and wash again for fluffier rag seams. Inspect the back of the quilt and hand sew any areas with gaps.

Easy Mock Basket Weave Quilt Block Pattern

You can make this block any size you wish. As long as all the squares are the same size, you'll be set. Just decide what size block you want and add 1/2" to allow for a seam allowance around each side. Finished Block Size: 12-inches square or 6-inches square Cutting Chart for Twelve 12-inch Quilt Blocks If you are strip piecing the blocks, the strips should be cut so that one stripe runs along the length of the strip and the other stripe runs across the length of the strip. If you plan to sew patchwork piece by piece, you don't need to worry about that. 7/8 yards each of Stripe 1 and Stripe 2 Strip Piecing: from each stripe cut y six 6-1/2" x 40" strips (or selvage to selvage) - one stripe moving lengthwise along the strip and the other moving crosswise across the strip; cut on the lengthwise grain if necessary

Piece Individual Squares: cut twenty-four 6-1/2" x 6-1/2" squares from each stripe. Cutting Chart for Twelve 6-inch Quilt Blocks See note above for stripe orientation. 1/3 yards each of Stripe 1 and Stripe 2

Allows extra in case fabric doesn't have a full 42" of usable width. Strip Piecing: from each stripe cut y two 3-1/2" x 43" strips (or selvage to selvage) - one stripe moving lengthwise along the strip and the other moving crosswise across the strip; cut on the lengthwise grain if necessary

Piece Individual Squares: from each stripe cut twenty-four 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" squares

Strip Piecing the Mock Basket Weave Quilt Use a 1/4" seam allowance to make the Mock Basket Weave quilt block, placing units right sides together for sewing and matching edges. Secure fabric with straight pins if necessary. If your components are consistently too small, sew with a scant quarter-inch seam. 1. Sew your long fabric strips lengthwise in pairs. Each pair should have a stripe that runsalong the length of the strip and one that runs across the length of the strip. 2. Press the seam allowance either way, but be consistent from pair to pair. 3. Square up one end of each pair and cut segments from it: six 6-1/2" segments for the larger quilt block; twelve 3-1/2" segments for the smaller quilt block. 4. Gather two segments and flip one around so that unlike stripes are adjacent to each other. Match the center seam and edges carefully, then sew together to complete a quilt block. 5. Repeat to make eleven more Mock Basket Weave quilt blocks. To make a larger quilt, sew additional strips together, trim, cut segments and assemble more blocks to make. You might want to leave some segments as-is, rather than making blocks from them. See the layout examples on page 3 and page 4 for an explanation. Sewing Squares Together Individually 1. Sew unlike stripes together to create a unit as shown in the upper right portion of the illustration. Press seams either direction, but be consistent from unit to unit. Sew units together in pairs to make quilt blocks.[/ol

The larger quilt block should measure 12-1/2" square. The smaller quilt block should measure 6-1/2" square.

Mock Basket Weave Quilt Block Layout If you count the squares across in this quilt layout, you'll find that there are eleven rows of squares, instead of the ten you'd expect for a four-patch quilt block. Take a look at that last row on the right. It's half of a block, and was added for symmetry, to make the first vertical row of squares match the last vertical row. It isn't necessary to arrange your blocks like that -- it's just an option to consider.

Star Quilt Pattern - Stretching to the Stars

Quilt Size: 40-1/2" x 40-1/2" Large Star Blocks: 8" x 8" Small Star Blocks: 4" x 4" Fabrics Large star tips, 9 dark fabrics, at least 3" x 9" each Small star tips, 16 dark fabrics, at least 2" x 6" each Light background, 1-1/8 yard Dark sashing, 3/8 yard Red sashing, 1/2 yard

y y y y y

Other Materials Backing: 2-2/3 yards Batting: 48" x 48" piece Binding: 175" length

y y y

Cutting Chart Nine 8" Stars Star Tips: y Cut twenty-seven 2-7/8" squares, three from each dark star tip fabric

Light Background Fabric:

Cut five 2-1/2" x 44" crosswisse grain strips. From the strips, cut: y y Fifty-four 2-1/2" squares Eighteen 2-1/2" x 4-1/2" rectangles

Cut two 2-7/8" x 44" crosswise grain strips. From the strips, cut: y Twenty-seven 2-7/8" squares

Sixteen 4" Stars Star Tips: y Cut forty-eight 1-7/8" squares, three from each dark star tip fabric

Light Background Fabric: Cut six 1-1/2" x 44" crosswisse grain strips. From the strips, cut: y y Ninety-six 1-1/2" squares Thirty-two 1-1/2" x 2-1/2" rectangles

Cut three 1-7/8" x 44" crosswise grain strips. From the strips, cut: y Forty-eight 2-7/8" squares

Sashing Cut five dark 2-1/2" x 44" crosswise grain strips Cut ten red 1-1/2" x 44" crosswise grain strips

y y

Make the half-square triangle units: 1. Gather your light and dark 2-7/8" squares and your light and dark 1-7/8" squares. 2. Use this quick piecing method to assemble fifty-four 2-1/2" half square triangle units from the 2-7/8" squares. Repeat to assemble ninety-six 1-1/2" units from the 1-7/8" squares.

Assemble the large star blocks: 1. Arrange a large background rectangle, three large background squares and three large, matching half-square triangle units into four rows. 2. Sew the components of each row together. Press seam allowances towards the background pieces. 3. Sew the rows together, carefully matching seam allowances and patch edges. 4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to make an identical four-row unit. 5. Flip the second unit around and join it to the first, matching edges and seam allowances. Press the center seam allowance to one side. 6. Repeat all steps to make a total of nine large star blocks. Assemble the small star blocks: 1. Repeat all steps to make sixteen small star blocks from the smaller components.

1. Sew a red, outer sashing strip lengthwise to one side of a dark sashing strip. Sew a second outer strip to the opposite side of the dark strip. 2. Press seam allowances towards the dark strip. 3. Square up one end of the strip set. Cut as many 8-1/2" long segments from it as possible. 4. Sew remaining sashing strips together in the same way to make a total of 10 long strip sets. 5. Cut a total of twenty-four segments from the strip sets.

1. Use a design wall or other flat surface to arrange your quilt blocks and sashing segments in seven rows. Move the star blocks around until you are pleased with the arrangement. 2. Sew the components of each row together, matching seams carefully. 3. Press seam allowances towards the sashing. 4. Sew the rows together, matching seams carefully. Press seam allowances towards the rows with large star blocks.

Friendship Star Quilt Block Pattern

I've included cutting instructions for a 12-inch finished quilt block and a 6-inch finished block. On Page 3 you'll find yardage and cutting instructions to help you make multiple blocks. Friendship Star - 12-inch Block y y Black: cut four 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" squares; cut two 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" squares Bright solid or tone on tone: Cut one 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" square; cut two 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" squares

Friendship Star - 6-inch Block y y Black: cut four 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" squares; cut two 2-7/8" x 2-7/8" squares Bright solid or tone on tone: Cut one 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" square; cut two 2-7/8" x 2-7/8" squares

Friendship Star Quilt Block Assembly Refer to the illustration above as you make the Friendship Star quilt block. Sew with a 1/4inch seam allowance. Make Half Square Triangle Units 1. Pair a 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" black square with a bright square of the same size (2-7/8" squares for the 6-inch block). Use my easy sandwich method to sew the pairs together, creating two black/bright half-square triangle units. 2. Repeat with the remaining pair of the same size to make a total of four identical triangle square units. Completed triangle square units for the 12-inch block should measure 4-1/2" x 4-1/2". Competed triangle square units for the 6-inch block should measure 2-1/2" x 2-1/2". Assemble Three Rows 1. Arrange your triangle square units, bright square and plain black squares into three rows as shown above. Sew the components of each row together and press the seam allowances towards the plain squares. 2. Sew the rows together, using the loft created by pressed seams to butt seam intersections into each other for a snug fit. 3. The larger block should measure 12-1/2" x 12-1/2". The smaller block should measure 6-1/2" x 6-1/2". If your block is smaller than it should be, or skewed along one side, press and recheck. If it still isn't quite right, use my easy squaring-up method before sewing it to other blocks.

Friendship Star Yardages Allow extra fabric as needed for borders, backing and binding. If you want to go scrappy, use an assortment of bright fabrics instead of one color. 30 Friendship Star Blocks - 12-inch Finished Black: 3 yards Bright solids or tone on tone: 1-3/4 yards y y Black: cut one-hundred-twenty 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" squares; cut sixty 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" squares*** Bright solid or tone on tone: Cut thirty 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" squares; cut sixty 4-7/8" x 47/8" squares***

30 Friendship Star Blocks - 6-inch Finished Black: 1-1/8 yard Bright solids or tone on tone: 3/4 yards Black: cut one-hundred-twenty 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" squares; cut sixty 2-7/8" x 2-7/8" squares*** y Bright solid or tone on tone: Cut thirty 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" squares; cut sixty 2-7/8" x 27/8" squares*** ***There are other ways to quick-piece triangle square units. If you are sewing lots of identical units, you might want to try assembling them on a long grid instead of cutting individual squares for the sandwich method. y Replace all 4-7/8" squares with long strips of fabric that are 4-7/8" wide y Replace all 2-7/8" squares with long strips of fabric that are 2-7/8" wide. y

Scrappy Framed Stars Quilt Block

The colors in the illustration help me explain which units go where; choose fabrics and colors that work with your quilt's theme. From neutral background fabric, cut: four 3" x 3" squares four 3" x 5-1/2" rectangles two 3-3/8" x 3-3/8" squares*

y y y

*Use squares slightly larger than 3-3/8" x 3-3/8" if you like to make oversize half-square triangle units and trim them back to the exact size after assembly. From medium green fabric, cut: two 3-3/8" x 3-3/8" squares*

*Use squares slightly larger than 3-3/8" x 3-3/8" if you like to make oversize half-square triangle units and trim them back to the exact size after assembly. From dark purple fabric, cut: eight 3" x 3" squares four 1-1/2" x 1-3/4" bars

y y

From assorted light fabrics, cut: forty 1-1/2" x 1-3/4" bars

Make the Half-Square Triangle Units 1. Use my easy sandwich method to make four half-square triangle units from the 3-3/8" green squares and the background squares of the same size. Each completed unit should measure 3" x 3". (If you're used larger squares, trim units back to 3" x 3" after sewing.) Make the "Flying Geese" Star Tips 1. Sew a 3" x 3" dark purple square to each end of a 3" x 5-1/2" rectangle as explained forquick pieced flying geese units. Trim, leaving 1/4" beyond each seam allowance, press. Make four identical units. 2. Sew a 3" x 3" background square to each end of two flying geese units as illustrated for star sides above. Make Patchwork Frames 1. Randomly arrange the forty light 1-1/2" x 1-3/4" bars into four rows, each row containing ten bars (illustration shows fewer, ignore). 2. Sew the bars in each row/frame together along their 1-3/4" edges. Press seams open. Each frame unit should be 10-1/2" long. If lengths differ, press thoroughly and remeasure. 3. Sew a 1-1/2" x 1-3/4" dark purple patch to each end of two of the patchwork frames. Press seams open. 4. Using your rotary equipment, square up the sides the patchwork frame units so that each measures exactly 1-1/2" wide along its entire length. Assemble the Quilt Block 1. Sew two green/background half-square triangle units side-by-side as shown. Press seam allowance towards the darker fabric. Repeat to make another identical unit. 2. Sew the triangle units together as shown to make the center pinwheel. Press. 3. Sew flying geese units to the top and bottom of the pinwheel. Press. 4. Sew star sides to complete the star. Press. 5. Sew shorter frame units to left and right sides of the star. Press. 6. Sew longer frame units, with purple ends, to the top and bottom of the block. Press.

Shoofly Quilt Block Pattern

Cutting Chart for Three Shoo Fly Variation Sizes 12-inch Square Finished Quilt Blocks Block Center (shown as yellow): one 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" square

"Floral" Elements (shown as pink): four 4-1/2" x 4-1/2" squares two 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" squares

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Neutral Background (shown as white): two 4-7/8" x 4-7/8" squares

9-inch Square Finished Quilt Blocks Block Center (shown as yellow): one 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" square

"Floral" Elements (shown as pink): four 3-1/2" x 3-1/2" squares two 3-7/8" x 3-7/8" squares

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Neutral Background (shown as white): two 3-7/8" x 3-7/8" squares

6-inch Square Finished Quilt Blocks Block Center (shown as yellow): one 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" square

"Floral" Elements (shown as pink): four 2-1/2" x 2-1/2" squares two 2-7/8" x 2-7/8" squares

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Neutral Background (shown as white): two 2-7/8" x 2-7/8" squares

Make the Half Square Triangle Units 1. Use my easy sandwich method to create four triangle square units by pairing the two neutral background squares and the "floral" squares of the same size. Assemble the Shoo Fly Variation Quilt Block 1. Sew a triangle square unit to each side of a "floral" square as shown in the top left row of the illustration. Press seam allowances towards the center square. 2. Repeat to make a second identical unit. 3. Sew a "floral" square to each side of the block center as shown above in the second illustration from the top. Press seam allowances towards the outer squares. 4. Arrange the rows as shown lower left in the illustration. Sew rows together, butting lofts where patches meet to form a perfect match at seam intersections. 5. Press the quilt block and check its measurements: y 12-inch finished block should measure 12-1/2" x 12-1/2" y 9-inch finished block should measure 9-1/2" x 9-1/2" y 6-inch finished block should measure 6-1/2" x 6-1/2"

Denim Quilt - Blue Jeans Quilts Tips and Techniques

Making a Denim Quilt You don't need a special quilt pattern to sew a denim quilt, often called a blue jeans quilt, but denim's heavy weight means that some quilting patterns are easier to assemble than others. Blue jeans are usually made from heavier denim, while shirts and other garments are cut and stitched from lighter weight fabrics. The lighter weight your denim, the easier it will be to work with small quilt patches. When you're working with heavy denim, stick to simple shapes like squares or bricks, but don't worry, because plain bricks and squares don't have to be boring: Use different colors of denim in the quilt to achieve a dramatic difference from patch to patch. Use plain denim for some patches and alternate them with a denim print. Sew with blue denim patches of different shades or patches that are faded to different levels to get a subtle variation between quilt blocks. Think about the different ways that ceramic tile is applied to floors and choose a similar arrangement for your denim quilt blocks. Make a denim rag quilt, with seam allowances that are exposed and allowed to fray--like this easy rag quilt--it would be perfect sewn in denim.

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Wash new denim fabric at least twice--more for a softer look and feel, and be sure to press denim before using it in a quilt.

Most recycled denims tend to fray, so it's not a bad idea to sew large, plain blocks together with 1/2" seams. New, lightweight denims aren't as prone to fraying, so go ahead and use 1/4" seams if you're making blocks with smaller pieces. Sew with cotton thread or purchase jeans thread--it's available in lots of colors. Use a special denim needle--refer to your sewing machine manual for suggestions. Some people like to set their machines to sew about 10-12 stitches per inch when working with denim--or 15 per inch or so if you're making a frayed edge quilt. You'll find that a walking foot helps keep the edges of your denim fabric from shifting around as you sew.

Finishing a Denim Quilt

Denim is already heavy, even the lighter weight versions, so you might not need to add traditional batting to the quilt. Try flannel instead, or forget the batting and just add a backing. Flannel makes a good backing, too. I doubt you'll want to hand quilt your denim quilts--it would take forever to get the needle in and out of the heavy layers. And casual denim looks great with simple machine quilting. Machine quilt your project using a walking foot and straight stitching. Consider adding largemeander stitching to large areas to dress them up a bit. You might also choose to tie the quilt with plain or decorative cotton yarns. Binding a Blue Jeans Quilt You usually can't get enough long pieces from recycled denim to make binding strips, and assembling short strips produces binding with lots of heavy seam allowances to mar your edges. New denim and heavy cotton twill are both good binding options. The two layers of adoublefold binding will help keep the edge intact. Denim is a wonderful, casual fabric that looks great no matter whether it's sewn together in structured blocks or random pieces. Experiment with denims to see what works best for you and remember, there are no "rules."

Floral Snowball Quilt Pattern

Snowball quilt blocks are a breeze to make, especially when you use quick piecing methods to assemble them. That's how we'll put together these pretty floral Snowballs. A floral fabric is used in the center, open area of each Snowball block. Triangles in block corners are black to contrast with the florals. The instructions assume you will make a scrappy floral Snowball quilt from a variety of fabrics, but on page 3 you'll find yardages for a baby quilt that uses a single floral. The small scale of the block is suitable for any quilt you want to make, from a wallhanging to a baby quilt to a bed cover. The quilt is illustrated without sashing, but narrow strips would enhance the contrast between the assortment of floral fabrics. Finished Block Size 6" x 6" Remember that finished dimensions refer to the size a block will be after it is sewn into a quilt. The unfinished size (the size your block should be immediately after its assembly) is 6-1/2" x 6-1/2". For Each Block

One 6-1/2" x 6-1/2" square of a floral fabric. Fabric scale should be consistent with the size of the square -- not a small-scale floral that gets lost in the shuffle, but not a huge floral that would appear chopped-up in the finished block. Four 2-1/4" x 2-1/4" black squares.

Snowball Quilt Block Assembly 1. Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner on the reverse side of each of your 2-1/4" x 2-1/4" squares. A white or yellow (or other light) pencil will come in handy. You can also create a temporary lines using a tool that creases fabric, such as a hera marker, which slides easily down the edge of a ruler. 2. Align a small square in each corner of the floral square as shown, right sides together and edges matched. Sew a seam on each diagonal line. Try sewing a scant seam by placing your seam along the side of the line that's closest to the corner. 3. Cut through both layers 1/4" past each seam line to create the seam allowance. Place a warmed iron straight down on top of the unpressed block to set the seams. Do not move the iron back and forth. 4. Carefully press the Snowball corners right side up, seam allowances towards the black corners (the direction isn't critical, but the dark allowances could be visible if pressed towards the floral). The Snowball quilt block should measure 6-1/2" x 6-1/2"

Puff Quilt Pattern

Fabric & Supplies for a Puff Quilt that Finishes at About 32" x 38" 3 yards of fabric for top squares (can be orderly or scrappy) 2 yards of muslin or another fabric for back squares (will not be visible in the finished quilt) 1 yard of fabric for (final) backing 1-1/2 packages double fold bias tape (or make your own binding) Thread Embroidery floss & needlepoint needle Polyester fiberfill (1 bag or a little more)

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Puff Quilt Cutting Instructions Cut (99) 6" x 6" top squares Cut (99) 5" x 5" squares of muslin (or other fabric used for back squares)

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Yardage helper: Assuming the fabric has a usable width of at least 40":

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You can cut (6) 6" squares from a 6" wide strip of fabric cut from selvage to selvage (possibly 7 if usable width is 42"). You can cut (8) 5" squares from a 5" wide strip of fabric cut from selvage to selvage.

1. Pin a top fabric square to a smaller muslin square (wrong side of the top square should be against the muslin). Match all corners and center the top square's resulting pleats as shown. Leave one side of each pocket unpinned for stuffing later. 2. Repeat, pinning all top squares to a muslin square. 3. Arrange pinned squares into rows, orienting all pleats in the same direction. 4. Use a 1/2" seam allowance to sew square pockets in each row together. Do not remove pins from unsewn edges. (Photo) 5. Sew a 1/2" seam along the sides of outermost pockets. 6. Place each row back into its place within the layout. 7. Sew a 1/2" seam along the bottom edge of each row (Photo), orienting short seam allowances to flow in opposite directions from row to row so that they will nest together nicely when rows are joined. Remove pins from row bottoms after sewing. 8. Use the openings along the tops of rows to stuff each square with fiberfill. Fill squares nicely, but avoid over-packing -- too much stuffing will make it difficult to pin and sew rows together. 9. Sew a 1/2" seam allowance along the open edge of the top row. 10. Pin and sew rows together, nesting seam allowances.

Add the Backing Fabric to the Puff Quilt

1. Place the backing fabric right side down on a table. Place the quilt on top of it, right side up (the longest edge of the quilt will usually fit across the width of the fabric). 2. Use safety pins or tacks to hold the layers together. 3. Thread embroidery floss through a needlepoint needle and tie each corner of a pocket with a square knot. Move from the upper right to the lower left. (Photo) Knot Illustration, scroll down the page to see a series of photos. 4. Remove tacks or pins and trim backing even with sides of the puff quilt. Baste or zigzag stitch around the edges of the quilt.