Innovations In Circular Knitting

ABOUT CIRCULAR KNITTING

Circular knitting or knitting in the round is a form of knitting that creates a seamless tube. When knitting circularly, the knitting is cast on and the circle of stitches is joined. Knitting is worked in rounds (the equivalent of rows in flat knitting) in a spiral. Originally, circular knitting was done using a set of four or five double-pointed needles. Later, circular needles were invented, which can also be used to do circular knitting: the circular needle looks like two short knitting needles connected by a cable between them. Machines also do circular knitting; double bed machines can be set up to knit on the front bed in one direction then the back bed on the return, creating a knitted tube. Specialized knitting machines for sock-knitting use individual latch-hook needles to make each stitch in a round frame. Many types of sweaters are traditionally knit in the round. Planned openings (arm holes, necks, cardigan fronts) are temporarily knitted with extra stitches, reinforced if necessary. Then the extra stitches are cut to create the opening, and are stitched with a sewing machine to prevent unraveling. This technique is called steeking. Circular needles arrived on the scene early in the 20th century and eliminated the need to employ multiple sets of long doublepointed needles to knit in the round. But circular needles aren't just for knitting circularly. Anything that can be knitted on two straight needles can be knitted back and forth on circulars just as easily and with less shoulder and wrist strain. When working flat with circulars the weight of the knitting slides around the connecting tube, closer to the knitter's center of gravity, rather than out to the sides in the pendulum fashion of working with straight needles. Most circular needles are constructed to have non-flexible ends that look like any other knitting needle at the pointy end, then taper to a connecting tube of plastic.

CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINES: IMAGES

CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE

KNITTING NEEDLES

FEEDERS

EIGHT LOCK KNITTING MACHINE

RIB KNITTING MACHINE

SEAMLESS KNITTING MACHINE

CREEL

KNITTING CAM

FEEDERS

NEW INNOVATIONS IN CIRCULAR KNITTING TECHNOLOGY IN THE PAST YEARS:

Eschler s e1 Carbon fabric comforts cyclists
25 March 2009, Bhler, Switzerland Functional knits pioneer Eschler has introduced an innovative fabric development for bike wear. The Swiss brand knits a carbon core yarn into its technical stretch material e1 Carbon. This allows the fabric to achieve improved temperature management, prevents formation of odour and features antistatic properties. In summer 2009, Italian bikewear pioneer Santini Maglificio Sportivo will use Eschlers new fabric e1 Carbon in its highperformance bike bib SP1071 Car5. The lightweight stretch material is made of 76 % Polyamide, 21 % Elastane and 3 % Carbon. Eschler says that the combination of high elasticity, perfect comfort and fantastic temperature management makes it the perfect fabric for Santinis Carbon Bike Bib SP1071 Car5, a bib engineered for ambitious riders and pro teams. The key benefits of the integrated carbon fibres are the prevention of odour, its antistatic properties and, according to a study conducted at the independent research institute EMPA in St. Gallen/Switzerland, the improvement of thermal regulation. Family owned brand Eschler has been developing functional fabrics since 1927. It is one of the first knit fabric manufacturers to integrate carbon fibres into technical sportswear fabrics for cyclists, runners, cross country skiers and triathletes.

Eschler collection utilizes innovative technologies

22 June 2009, Buhler - The summer 2011, collection highlights of Swiss knit fabric manufacturer Eschler include three highly functional fabrics integrating innovative technologies. Eschler has introduced a new Layer One quality from 100% recycled polyester incorporating an antimicrobial technology. The Swiss brand also presents two extremely hightech knits utilizing Schoellers revolutionary coldblack technology, which reduces heat absorbency in dark coloured textiles and guarantees a high level of UV-protection. Eschler sportswear fabrics are segmented in the eschler comfort system (ecs), a complementary layering principle with the categories e1, e2 and e3/e3+. For its summer 2011 collection, the company focused on sustainability and state-of-the-art technology.

e1 PCR Bioactive
Eschler was one of the first textile companies that became a bluesign system partner and thus committed itself to an environmentally friendly production cycle and the PCR Bioactive fabric underlines the brands dedication to sustainability. The New Life yarns are made of 100% PCR (PostConsumer Recycled) Polyester and in this case, PET bottles. Eschler says they have a very soft touch, great elasticity and good moisture management. PCR Bioactive also features silver ions incorporated in the polymer of the fibres, which inhibit the growth of odour-causing bacteria. This makes it the perfect fabric for functional underwear, technical shirts, as well as performance garments for high aerobic activities, Eschler says.

e1 SWAN coldblack
e1 SWAN coldblack is a technical knit with a unique dimple structured or golf ball surface creating good aerodynamic properties. This material is already used in competition sports clothing from the suits of pro short track runners to bike and triathlon apparel, the company says. Now, Eschler is offering SWAN with coldblack technology by Schoeller. The bluesign approved finishing allows dark textiles to no longer absorb, but reflect heat and coldblack therefore reduces heat build-up and additionally provides reliable protection from UV-rays.

e3 Flash coldblack
Eschler says that e3 Flash does not only dry in a flash, it is a double layer knit with polyester on the inside and polyamide on the outside, which delivers outstanding moisture management and excellent cooling properties. The polyamide outer material further guarantees high abrasion resistance. Eschler has also added Lycra Power for elasticity and compression and integrates carbon fibres, which, according to the independent Swiss institute EMPA, improves the garments thermal regulation. For even more high tech, the fabrics now also utilize coldblack technology for UV protection and effective heat reduction

Biophyl fine knits for Wundervoll

3 September 2009, Hamm - Berlin based exclusive lingerie-label Wundervoll has used Biophyl, Advansas sustainable eco textile product, in fine gauge circular knits for its new spring/summer 2010 collection. Wundervoll, which combines high quality lingerie and Berlin fashion, makes underwear for the fashion conscious woman, who sets a high value on quality, design and classy materials. Biophyl fabrics are made of eco polyester yarns that are based

on an innovative polyester-polymer called PTT (Polytrimethyleneterephtalate). According to Advansa, these yarns not only guarantee high colour brilliance and softness in touch but also provide the fabrics with excellent stretch and recovery, ensuring pleasant wearer comfort. The fabrics used are made at the Hndel & Diller circular knitting factory in Balingen. Hndel & Diller is known as an innovative circular knitter and specialist in fine knit fabrics for underwear and has already developed other extremely successful quality fabrics. Matthias Jaschke, founder of Wundervoll comments: Our new spring/summer 2010 collection highlights the innovative fabric characteristics in a unique way. The slightly transparent mesh articles are pleasingly soft next to skin, supremely resilient and exceptional easy to care." In Biophyl, the glycol used in standard polyester, which is generally petrol-based, is replaced with Bio-PDO that is obtained from corn sucrose. 37% of the polymer used in Biophyl consists of renewable raw material. This decreases dependence on oil and reduces environmental pollution, Advansa says. Advansas Marketing Manager Luciano Colasanto says: In comparison to standard polyester and nylon, commonly used in lingerie and to which Biophyl is an alternative, CO2 output associated with production of the polymer is up to 63% lower. This contributes to reduction of the greenhouse effect. A simultaneous energy saving of up to 30% conserves additional resources. Yet the consumer does not have to settle for compromises in comfort or performance. An increasing number of lingerie producers have discovered the combination of benefits that Biophyl offers to their products and their customers, and decide in favour of Biophyl. Advansa also says that Biophyl combines the advantages of sustainability with the performance of polyester products and in addition, it has the positive quality of absorbing less moisture than polyamide does; it dries very quickly, repels

dirt and is extremely durable. Other pluses of Biophyl are thermo set ability, UV/chlorine resistance, iron ability and certification according to the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 with the highest possible Class 1, which also includes the category for baby articles.

Terrot shows latest striper technology in Bangladesh

12 January 2010, Chemnitz - German circular knitting machine builder Terrot will show its latest technology for knitting striped fabrics at the forthcoming 7th Dhaka International Textile and Garment Machinery Exhibition 2010 (DTG 2010), which is being held from 2-5 February 2010 in Dhaka. Clothing is Bangladeshs number one export with the fast growing readymade garment (RMG)sector accounting for more than 76% of total export earnings. The country is one of the top five RMG exporters in the world with annual exports of over US$ 7.50 billion and in 2010 this figure is expected to grow to US$ 10.00 billion. DTG 2010, which is the dedicated textile machinery exhibition for the region will host a wide range of textile machinery technologies and more than 600 local and international exhibitors from 30 countries will participate. Terrot, which is jointly exhibiting with its partner Terrot Bangladesh will exhibit its S4F348 single striper machine. The company says that its single striper machines with 4 or 6 colour stripers and even with 4 needle tracks, provides decisive advantages in production and huge application variety. The model on show in Dhaka will be a two track, 48 feed, 30 inch diameter machine in gauge E24 with a speed of 28 rpm or 32 rpm with Terrots speed up function.

Machine features
Terrot says that the S4F348 combines the traditional attributes of functional safety and outstanding reliability with further improved Terrot striper technology. The benefit, it says, is maximum processing variety with nearly unlimited pattern and colour possibilities, especially for sensitive yarns, due to the combination of the Terrot Striper

System with different kinds of structure techniques. By using its multi-colour technology, Terrot says it is possible to process up to 8 colours in a single length of fabric. The company says that unsurpassed versatility includes the processing of even the most sensitive yarns. Besides the standard yarns such as cotton, the S4F348 can reliably process acetate, core spun yarns, Modal, polyester filament, polyamide and viscose. Yarn change is effected with one lay-in finger for every colour yarn. Each yarn lay-in finger is equipped with a combined clamping device as well as a cutting device which Terrot says guarantees very precise clamping and cutting of the yarns. The company adds that, unlike its competitors, with this striper technology its machines are able to process all yarn qualities, particularly for striped fabric in line with the current trends.

Economic production
The S4F348 has a redesigned cylinder and sinker cam curves which permit safer production at an increased speed factor of 840 (S4F348/6F348). The machine also encompasses an economic production feature in its computer controlled Terrotspeed-up-function, whereby the machine speed increases by 20% while knitting large sequences in a single, thereby increasing productivity flexibility and versatility. In addition, Terrot says the machines 2-slot yarn carrier is perfectly guided and guarantees excellent Spandex and Mesh plating. It also says that the S4F348 is easy to handle and new pattern information can be created by transmitting the colour sequence by USB memory stick. Simple and quick adjustment of colour sequences can be carried out by inputting the data via the terminal keypad. Application areas for the S4F348 are outerwear and sports and leisure wear and the following fabric structure and knitting techniques are possible: Striper pattern/ colour change striper, plain single jersey, elastane plaiting single structures, 2-thread fleece, piqu and tuck structures. Perfect circular knitting technology combined with the finest Terrot knitted fabrics is the culmination of well developed machine engineering designed to sharpen the competitive edge of our international customer base, says Uta Barthel, Terrots Marketing & Communication Manager. The Terrot brand stands for quality and top performance in the construction of electronically and mechanically controlled circular knitting machines around the world. Maximum efficiency and an outstanding cost-top performance ratio, combined with truly

universal application and operating convenience: These are the objectives at the forefront of our machine design and development work, adds Ms. Barthel.

Mayer introduces 3-colour striping on 108 feeds

6 April 2010, Albstadt - Mayer & Cie. is to demonstrate maximum striping performance with its S4-3.2 R single jersey striping machine at ITMA Asia + CITME 2010, which takes place in Shanghai from 22-26 June. The German companys latest circular knitting machine has 108 feeders with a cylinder diameter of 34 inches and Mayer says that the machine is innovative in that up to 3 colours can be knit per feeder over all 108 feeders or alternatively, up to 6 colours over 54 feeders. The company expects this to open up a whole range of completely new options for achieving maximum productivity when manufacturing superior-quality fashionable striped fabric. Mayer says the new S4-3.2 R is extremely flexible in this respect and with 3.2 feeders per inch, single jersey fabrics can be manufactured with or without 3-coloured striping, or with 6-coloured striping using 1.6 feeders per inch. Simply replacing the striping nonknit feeders with knitting feeders makes 3.2 feeders per inch available for structures with up to 4 needle tracks, with or without elastomer plating. The rapid Quick-Change gauge conversion is also said to offer greater flexibility as the new system dispenses with the need to remove the stripers, facilitating gauge conversion and reducing conversion times. At a diameter of 34 inches, the S4-3.2 R reaches a rotational speed of up to 20rpm in striping mode and thanks to Mayers Speed up function this allows the speed to be increased up to 31rpm in the sections without striping via patterning control.

S4 single jersey in E44

Another new Mayer innovation is the introduction of a fine gauge S4 single jersey machine in gauge E44. With 3.2 feeders per inch, Mayer says the S4-3.2 II is capable of manufacturing knitted silk effects at high production rates with this gauge and special unfolding frames prevent marks caused by squeezed edges.

The S4-3.2 II embodies everything necessary for superior knitting quality in single jersey in 2 and 4 needle structures and single jersey plating. Up to 4 needle types for each of 3 needle positions expand the structure range. It covers all common weights in the clothing sector. Versatility is complemented by a high output assured by 3.2 feeders per inch and a high rotational speed, a Mayer & Cie. spokesperson said. The new S4-3.2 II is also equipped with Mayers Quick-Change for rapid gauge conversion and a mounting frame is no longer required for gauge conversion, as is the case with all S4 machines. Both machines will be presented at ITMA Asia + CITM in cylinder diameter of 34 inches and will be fitted with 108 feeders.

Terrot exhibits upgraded single jersey machine in Shanghai

20 April 2010, Chemnitz - German circular knitting machine builder Terrot will be targeting Asian markets when it exhibits at the forthcoming ITMA ASIA + CITME 2010, which is being jointly organised in Shanghai by Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd and MP International Pte Ltd. The event will take place from 22 to 26 June 2010 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre in Shanghai, China and will highlight the strength of the ITMA brand, featuring an A to Z of textile machinery. The milestone event features the unique strengths of the ITMA brand and China's most important textile event CITME. The move to combine the two shows into one mega high-quality event is strongly supported by all nine CEMATEX European textile machinery

associations, CTMA (China Textile Machinery Association) and JTMA (Japan Textile Machinery Association). Terrot which has a strong market presence in the region will be exhibiting with its partner Terrot Hong Kong Ltd and will be showing the latest version of its upgraded S296-2 single jersey machine.

S296-2 features
Diameter: 34 inch Gauge: E 28 Number of feeders: 109 Number of needle tracks: 2 (up to 4 available) Knitting structure: single plain Single structures

Fabric application
Sports & Leisure Wear. Fashion Outerwear. Kids Wear.

Upgrade benefits
Benefits of the S296-2 upgrade include advanced central and individual stitch adjustment with greater precision, which enhances accurate stitch adjustment, a completely re-engineered knitting head with convertible low cost new cylinder needle. The redesigned knitting head also includes positive needle guidance in cam profiles where needles are guided smoothly for less wear and tear and for higher machine speeds. The S296-2 also incorporates new wear resistant zirconium yarn carriers with Spandex rollers for improved plating and for preventing fluff accumulation. Terrot says the S296-2 offers outstanding flexibility and efficiency in production whilst processing a wide range of yarns, different fabric weights and structures including Spandex plating. The machine is also customer proven for processing both cotton and synthetic yarns at the highest performance levels, the company adds.

Perfect circular knitting technology combined with the finest Terrot knitted fabrics is the culmination of well developed machine engineering designed to sharpen the competitive edge of our international customer base, says Uta Barthel, Terrots Marketing & Communication Manager. The Terrot brand stands for quality and top performance in the construction of electronically and mechanically controlled circular knitting machines around the world. Maximum efficiency and an outstanding cost/ performance ratio, combined with truly universal application and operating convenience: These are the objectives at the forefront of our machine design and development work, adds Ms. Barthel.

THE UPGRADED SINGLE JERSEY MACHINE

Double-sided knit in award winning bike wear

25 May 2010. Buhler Swiss manufacturer of warp and weft knit performance fabrics Eschler, has supplied its Flash double sided moisture management fabric to Swedish cycling brand Craft for its award winning bike wear. Crafts Elite Attack Bib received the Eurobike Award 2009. Circular knitted Flash fabric is a double layer knit which has polyester on the inside and polyamide on the outside and is said to provide outstanding moisture management. In addition, Flash also has compression properties and integrates carbon into the fabric for improved thermal regulation. The Elite Attack Bibs lightweight, bi-component fabrics fibres on the inside are said to be soft on the skin and provide excellent cooling properties, whilst the polyamide outer shell delivers high abrasion and pilling resistance. To make sure cyclists get all the support they need, added elastane

provides muscle-supporting compression in key zones. Carbon is also integrated into the fabric which helps to reduce the formation of odour while providing anti-static properties. Eschler says that, according to a study conducted at the independent research institute EMPA in St. Gallen, Switzerland, the carbon further improves the thermal regulation. Eschler specialises in sportswear, work wear, technical textiles and lingerie and is a bluesign system partner (www.bluesign.com). The independent bluesign standard meets strict requirements in sustainability, health and safety as well as in resource efficiency.

Pai Lung showcases innovations in Shanghai

7 June 2010, Taipei - Leading Taiwanese circular knitting machine builder Pai Lung will be introducing its latest innovations in circular knitting at ITMA Asia + CITME later this month as well as showing the latest versions of its recently introduced flat knitting machines for sweater production. The exhibition runs from 22 to 26 June at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre in Shanghai. The companys circular knitting innovations for ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 are:

Striper innovations
Model X72FX4C is a single jersey fine gauge multi-feeder four colour striper machine, and will be exhibited in 30 inch diameter in 36 gauge. Also in the striper area will be the new vertical striper feeder in single jersey six colour striper X54FX6C model which will be shown in 30 inch in 28 gauge. The company describes this development as a breakthrough in 6 colour striper design limit to reach 1.8 feeders/ inch system for an unbelievable high production rate.

Latest value added models

Model X96F, eight lock (2+6 tracks) circular knitting machine, 34 inch in 28 gauge. The aim of this model is to create pattern capability to replace majority of mini-jacquard in terms of fabric versatility, especially in sports and athletic wear. Model 90F, ultra high speed single jersey open width in 30 inch, 28 gauge. The machine speed factor is up to 1050, 35 rpm and has the latest central rolling take up system to be able to offer better fabric tension control and even courses and wales in the whole fabric roll.

New evolutionary E series

Model 90F, 30 inch in 28 gauge . economic and basic fabrics markets. Pioneering home textiles models Model PL-KDDSCJ with individual dial and cylinder jacquard selection system. According to Pai Lung this model is able to offer a variety of high quality patterns on each side of double face fabrics. The beauty of this models product is beyond comparison with the weaving dobby system or single face electronic jacquard machines performance, the company says. A new series for

High speed single jersey by Vanguard Pai Lung

In addition to the above, Pai Lungs new partner, Vanguard Pail Lung is to show its high speed single jersey model in 22 gauge, 24 inch diameter at the Pai Lung booth.

Computerized flat knitting machines

Pai Lung will also be showing the latest versions of its PLF-KS132 flat knitting machine which was first shown as a prototype at ITMA Asia + CITME in 2008. The companys PLF-KS132 machines are now available in single carriage three systems and two carriage double system variants. 2008s prototype was a single carriage double system machine. According to Pai Lung, standard machine features now include set-up comb with gripper and cutter, and sub-roller and sinkers. Pai Lung has also broadened the gauge range for its flat knitting machines from the 7 to 14 gauge to 5 to 16 gauge and says it now offers a multi-gauge

option. Plaiting and intarsia options are also said to be available according to customers requests and the company says this demonstrates its commitment to developing more advanced computerized flat knitting machines.

Pilotelli shows sinker less fine gauge single jersey machine

5 July 2010, Shanghai Italian circular knitting machine builder Pilotelli has exhibited a new sinkerless single jersey machine which is available in gauges as fine as 60 and as coarse as 18. The SL, which Pilotelli says is true sinkerless with no added elements, was shown in 54 gauge at last months ITMA Asia + CITME in Shanghai. Previously the machine has only been exhibited at the recent Tuyap show in Turkey. In Shanghai, Pilotelli showed 30 inch version of the 54 gauge SL which has a top running speed of 20 rpm and a 30 inch, 28 gauge SL. According to Pilotellis General Manager, Fabrizio Merz the SL has numerous advantages over the competition and has some unique features. The patented sinkerless technology is believed to incorporate a ring which holds down stitches, replacing sinkers. The SL consumes 50% less oil and uses much less energy due to the fact that it has fewer moving parts. Our competitors use sinkers or some other kind of holding down elements which involves moving parts, Merz told Knitting Industry. With the sinkerless SL we also eliminate vertical lines in the fabric giving beautiful high quality fabrics in fine gauges, Merz said. Pilotelli says it will build around 1000 machines in 2010 and claims to be number one in Turkey and strong in Brazil. Until recently annual production was around 500 machines per year. The company includes amongst its customers, Miroglio in Italy, Lacoste in France, Schiesser in Germany, Nan Yang in Thailand and Pettenati and Menegotti in Brazil. Pilotelli manufactures both in Italy and at its subsidiary

Pilotelli (Xiamen) Textile Machinery Co. Ltd. In China. The new SL is manufactured in Italy. Pilotelli Macchine Tessili, which is based in Cazzago San Martino near Brescia in Italy, is best known for its JVCE-3 open width take-down single jersey machine which the company introduced in 2000. The JVCE-3 has been very successful and the company has shipped more than 1000 machines to Turkey alone. The company says that its customers particularly appreciate the JVCE-3 for its advanced technology and ease of use for the operator. According to Pilotelli, other advantages of the new sinkerless SL model include, excellent visibility and access to the knitting elements, easy adjustment with elastane, patented fabric take-up system, reduced maintenance time and costs and reduced consumption of electricity, air, oil and longer needle life.

Vanguard Pai Lung s high speed Jumbo is runaway success

7 July 2010, Shanghai US based high speed circular knitting machine builder Vanguard Pai Lung has reported the recent ITMA Asia + CITME in Shanghai to be a huge success, with Asian fabric manufacturers really taking to its SJ4A/D12 Jumbo high speed single jersey machine. The recently formed company formed from a partnership between Pai Lung and Vanguard Supreme personnel showed a 24 inch diameter, 22 gauge machine with 96 feeds which is capable of running at an astonishing 73 rpm or at a speed factor of 1750 on single jersey fabric. Big American machine When Knitting Industry visited the companys stand at ITMA Asia + CITME just a few weeks ago, Chinese knitting machine operators were climbing all over the huge SJ4A/D12, which they referred to as the big American machine. The SJ4A/D12, with its jumbo frame, towered above the diminutive Chinese knitters who

seemed almost bemused by the concept of climbing up steps in order to view the knitting head. Skys the limit The show was a huge success. Vanguard Pai Lung could not have hoped for a better reception of the High Speed Jumbo Machine. Based on the show and Vanguard's new partnership with Pai Lung we truly feel the sky's the limit, said Vanguard Pai Lungs Director of International Sales, Matthew Yates. Vanguard Supremes high speed, high production jersey and fleece machines are said to be ideal for producing high quality single jersey fabrics. The companys says its computer designed closed cam track system ensures positive needle control and provides excellent stitch definition. The machines are also equipped with angular sinker technology to improve fabric quality and minimise defect rates, while yielding a 30% increase in production over previous models. The fleece machine is equipped with a 3 level sinker (U.S. Patent 5,477,707 S Foreign Patents Pending) for improved knitting. Jersey Fabric Scope Plain single jersey fabrics ideal for sportswear, leisure wear, underwear, and T shirts Feeder stripes, plaited fabrics, 2-yarn fleece, satin stitch, lacoste, crepe, and twills Fleece Fabric Scope 3-yarn tie in fleece ideal for sportswear and leisure wear 1 x 1, 2 x 1, and 3 x 1 needle selection Diagonal, crossover, random patterns or French terry Machine Specifications The Jumbo high speed single jersey machine is available in diameters from 11 to 32 inches. For jersey and two thread fleece, gauges are 16 to 28 and for three thread fleece, 12 to 22. For jersey and two thread fleece the machines have 4 feeders per inch and 3.5 per inch for three thread fleece. Speed factors are: jersey - up to 1750 depending on yarn quality and fabric type (single track only); two thread fleece - up to 1500 depending on yarn quality and fabric type and three thread fleece - up to 1000 depending on yarn quality and fabric type. Up to four cam tracks are

available. Long heritage The company started out in 1918 as the Supreme Knitting Machine Company, was acquired by the Singer Company in 1961, returned to private ownership as Vanguard Supreme in 1978, was purchased by Monarch Knitting Machinery Corporation in 1986 and finally bought by Bill Moody, Leo Yates and Pai Lungs James Wang to form Vanguard Pai Lung in 2009. Vanguard Pai Lund also manufactures the 2SR2/H12 high speed double knit series as well as a range of small diameter high speed machines

Pai Lung aims for multi-colour mattress tickings market

13 August 2010, Taipei Taiwanese circular knitting machine builder Pail Lung has introduced a new double jersey double selection electronic jacquard machine aimed at the high quality multi-colour mattress tickings (coverings) market. Launched at the recent ITMA Asia + CITME 2010 in Shanghai, the PL-KDDSCJ is aimed at introducing multi-colour jacquard fabrics via cylinder and dial electronic selection to the very high end of the tickings market. The PL-KDDSCJ on show in Shanghai, which the company describes as belonging to itspioneering home textiles models, was a 38 model in 20 gauge with 60 feeds. Pai Lungs double knit full jacquard offer now consists of the new PL-KDDSCJ double knit double selection and the PL-KD1.5CJ, PL-KD2.5CJ and PL-KD1.5J/SR (sinker ring) models, all three of which have cylinder selection only. Available machine configurations are as follows: PL-KDDSCJ - 30-42, 12G-28G, 42F-64F PL-KD1.5CJ - 16-40, 14G-28G, 24F-64F PL-KD2.5CJ 16-40, 14G-28G, 32F-84F PL-KD1.5CJ/SR 16-40, 14G-28G, 24F-64F Mattress tickings were traditionally woven but in recent years there has been a boom in the production of tickings on double jersey circular knitting machines with cylinder

selection. The introduction of double selection or cylinder and dial selection offers even greater patterning potential. PL-KDDSCJ, with the individual dial and cylinder jacquard selecting system, is able to offer a variety of high quality patterns on each side of double face fabric. The beauty of this models product is beyond comparison with the weaving dobby system or single face electronic jacquard machines performance, Pai Lungs Steven Chen said at the show.

Icebreaker introduces Realfleece

22 September 2010, Wellington - In a market dominated by petroleum-based clothing, pioneering New Zealand merino company Icebreaker, says it is offering a natural alternative to the synthetic knitted fleece. Icebreaker, which has pioneered merino outdoor clothing since 1994, is introducing Realfleece in its Fall/Winter 2010 collection. According to Icebreaker, Realfleece is a premium natural alternative to a synthetic fleece, but unlike synthetics, looks good enough to wear out socially. Made from the worlds best merino, grown by merino sheep in New Zealands Southern Alps, its exceptionally warm, soft and cosy, says Icebreaker. The interior of each Realfleece garment is said to have a terry knit construction with loft that has been brushed to create pockets that trap air and lock in body heat. The outside is said to have a smooth, stylish, air-permeable jersey finish. Icebreaker says Realfleece garments are ideal to wear during low aerobic sports, such as hiking, and to warm up or warm down from high aerobic sports, such as running. They come in two styles for men and women, with or without hoods, and can be worn over a base layer or underneath a waterproof, breathable shell. Realfleece is about instant warmth and instant luxury, says Jeremy Moon, founder and CEO of Icebreaker. These new garments are amazingly soft and warm, yet they look so good they can be

worn out to a restaurant. Once youve tried one on, you wont want to take it off. The mens Aspiring Zip (in black and stealth/black) features a full zip centre front, set-in sleeves, zippered front hand pockets and chest pocket and a centre front interior chin guard. For women, the Igloo Zip and Igloo Hood (in black and divine/merlot) features full zip centre front, set-in sleeves, and zippered front hand pockets. The Aspiring Hood offers the same features and a shaped hood. Realfleece represents the ethos of our brand. Sustainability is at the core of our business, and we want to make beautiful products that last a long time, says Jason Phillips, Icebreakers Design Director of Apparel. We think Realfleece will be an instant classic. Launched in 1994, Icebreaker claims it was the first company in the world to develop a merino fibre layering system for the outdoors. It also claims to be the first outdoor apparel company in the world to source merino directly from growers, a system it began in 1997. There are now 20-25 distinct pure merino fabrics in the Icebreaker system, covering underwear, mid layer, and outerwear.

Diamond-hard coating for alpine pursuits fabrics

11 November 2010, Fonzaso Bologna, Italy based high-tech sportswear label Sportful, has launched a new collection of mountaineering and ski outfits which incorporate a knitted fabric finished with a unique abrasion resistant coating embedded with diamond hard ceramic particles. The weft knitted fabric in Sportful's Dolomiti Windstopper garments was developed and produced by Swiss warp and weft knitted fabrics manufacturer Eschler, and is used for the exposed outer areas of both jackets and pants that are subject to heavy wear. The rib fabric is used in the shoulder, elbow and hip areas of the garments. The innovative

ceramic coated fabric is used alongside a tightly woven Gore Windstopper fabric to combine maximum breathability with wind protection. The polyurethane-based fabric coating is embedded with diamond-hard ceramic particles and is said to be particularly environmentally friendly since it is completely free of solvents. Eschler claims that the coating can withstand extreme friction from backpacks or hip belts, providing the combined benefits of high wearer comfort with fantastic abrasion resistance. Sportful is known for producing uncompromising high-tech sportswear for ambitious athletes and says that with its Dolomiti Windstopper jacket and pants, it is introducing the perfect outfit for backcountry lovers. Specifically adapted to the needs of randonne skiers, mountaineers and outdoor athletes, the collection pieces are said to come with exceptional, pre-shaped fit that provides maximum freedom of movement despite the athletic, fairly tight fit that avoids bulkiness. Ironically Sportful itself started off as a knitwear factory in 1946, evolved into a high quality underwear producer and finally into a ski apparel brand in the 1970s. The story goes that the real turning point came in 1972, when Dr. Giordano Cremonese, who had taken over the management of the business from his parents, wanted to participate in the newly established Marcialonga cross-country ski race but did not have appropriate clothing. He decided to use the family business to produce the necessary apparel and what had begun as a personal need grew into an unprecedented success. This was the beginning of the Sportful brand. In 1985, seeing the great demand for technical cycling apparel and encouraged by the company's remarkable success in cross-country skiing, Sportful embarked on a new adventure. This move into cycling would further strengthen the company's reputation in the athletic apparel industry. In 1998, after having achieved a dominant position in the Italian cross-country ski market, the company decided to expand its presence in foreign markets. Sportful is currently the official apparel supplier for the prestigious Finnish national team. With regard to cycling apparel, the company says its greatest achievement came in 2002, when the Italian national team began to wear Sportful apparel and Mario Cipollini won the World Championships in Zolder shortly thereafter. Other successes followed this victory, including Paolo Bettini's Olympic gold at Athens, and 2006 at Salzburg saw the Sportful jersey once again on the podium.

Orizio extends single jersey machine range

18 January 2011, Gussago, Brescia Italian circular knitting machine builder Orizio has revamped its range of single jersey machines with three new models in response to customer demand and in preparation for this years ITMA exhibition which will be held in Barcelona in September. The technical change and fast production potential of Orizio machines are capturing customers interest worldwide. Todays market demand seems to be more than ever high production and quality level fabric, says owner and Managing Director Mr. Alberto Orizio. This is why we have enlarged our production machine range, Mr Orizio added. New JH/V single jersey models The new Orizio single jersey JH/V model is available as either a single or two cam track machine for the high volume production of plain single jersey and single jersey with Lycra with special sinker and needle cam profiles and special needles. Orizio says that the machine has been designed to minimize the friction of all moving parts in order to reach production speeds of up to 50 rpm on a 30 inch diameter machine. The company says that particular care has been paid to the design of machine parts to achieve this target and machines have already been on test in the market for two years. Speaking about another new Orizio development in striping technology, Alberto Orizio said: A particular attention of our R&D department went into the striping technology with the new born JB41E that with 1.6 feeders per diametrical inches can knit single jersey basic stitch fabrics with 4 colour stripers. At 34 inches the JB41E can run up to 20 rpm with 54 feeders thus producing the best quality striped fabric in commerce. With 2.4 feeds per diametrical inches the new JB3E can manufacture single jersey 3 colour striping fabric. This high speed striper machine can run up to 22

rpm with 72 real operating feeds on 30 inch diameter, thus granting great stitch adjustment range and consequently results in high volume production, Mr Orizio added. Orizio says that its proven quick change cylinder system for rapid gauge conversion and easy to remove and change striper modules gives the new models more versatility and flexibility reducing both production time and workforce. With high quality, our efforts will be essential in securing new prospective and longterm success, Mr Orizio added.

Terrot to showcase striper technology in Dhaka

7 February 2011, Chemnitz - German circular knitting machine builder Terrot will show its latest technology for knitting striped fabrics at the forthcoming 8th Dhaka International Textile and Garment Machinery Exhibition 2011 (DTG 2011), which is being held from 13-16 February 2011 in Dhaka. Terrot, which is jointly exhibiting with its partner Terrot Bangladesh will exhibit its S4F348 single jersey striper machine. The company says that its single striper machines with 4 or 6 colour stripers and even with 4 needle tracks, provide decisive advantages in production and huge application variety. The model on show in Dhaka will be a two track, 48 feed, 30 inch diameter machine in gauge E24 with a speed of 28 rpm or 32 rpm with Terrots speed up function.

Machine features
Terrot says that the S4F348 combines the traditional attributes of functional safety and outstanding reliability with further improved Terrot striper technology. The benefit, it says, is maximum processing variety with nearly unlimited pattern and colour possibilities, especially for sensitive yarns, due to the combination of the Terrot Striper System with different kinds of structure techniques. By using its multi-colour technology, Terrot says it is possible to process up to 8 colours in a single length of fabric. The company says that unsurpassed versatility includes the processing of even the most sensitive yarns. Besides the standard yarns such as cotton, the S4F348 can reliably process acetate, core spun yarns, Modal, polyester filament, polyamide and

viscose. Yarn change is effected with one lay-in finger for every colour yarn. Each yarn lay-in finger is equipped with a combined clamping device as well as a cutting device which Terrot says guarantees very precise clamping and cutting of the yarns. The company adds that, unlike its competitors, with this striper technology its machines are able to process all yarn qualities, particularly for striped fabric in synthetic yarns which are in line with the current trends.

Economic production
The S4F348 has a redesigned cylinder and sinker cam curves which permit safer production at an increased speed factor of 840 (S4F348/6F348). The machine also encompasses an economic production feature in its computer controlled Terrot-speed-up-function, whereby the machine speed increases by 20% while knitting large sequences in a single, thereby increasing productivity flexibility and versatility. In addition, Terrot says the machines 2-slot yarn carrier is perfectly guided and guarantees excellent Spandex and Mesh plating. It also says that the S4F348 is easy to handle and new pattern information can be created by transmitting the colour sequence by USB memory stick. Simple and quick adjustment of colour sequences can be carried out by inputting the data via the terminal keypad. Application areas for the S4F348 are outerwear, sportswear, leisure wear and home textiles and the following fabric structure and knitting techniques are possible: Striper pattern/ colour change striper, plain single jersey, elastane plaiting single structures, 2-thread fleece, piqu and tuck structures. Perfect circular knitting technology combined with the finest Terrot knitted fabrics is the culmination of well developed machine engineering designed to sharpen the competitive edge of our international customer base, says Susanne Heft, Terrot Marketing & Communication. The Terrot brand stands for quality and top performance in the construction of electronically and mechanically controlled circular knitting machines around the world. Maximum efficiency and an outstanding cost-top performance ratio, combined with truly universal application and operating convenience: These are the objectives at the forefront of our machine design and development work, adds Ms. Heft. Leading circular knitting machine builder Mayer & Cie.has launched a new double jersey machine for fine rib knit fabrics and 3D spacer fabrics for technical applications.

Mayers new Technit D3 uses technology pioneered on its single jersey MLPX 3-PL which is aimed at high production high quality plush fabrics for car upholstery and furnishing where long fabric life is important. The MLPX 3-PL produces fabrics with a very high cover factor which are ideal for raising and shearing using the novel MCT cam concept where the machine produces a complete plush course per feeder with a ground yarn and up to two colour yarns. The new Technit D3 applies the MLPX 3-PL technology to double jersey knitting and Mayer is confident that the new design of the Technit D3 is an exciting innovation which is set to open up new fields of application for circular knit fabrics. According to Mayer, the Technit D3 yields a more stable fabric than the MLPX 3-PL which is important for applications such as shoe fabrics. Mayer confirmed that it has already delivered a Technit D3 for shoe fabric manufacture to a Taiwanese customer. The Albstadt company is keen to stress the importance of the high stability of its D3 fabrics and claims that the Technit D3 makes the most stable weft knitted fabrics available today. Warp knits can of course be engineered to be more stable but circular knitted fabrics are cheaper to produce and can be produced in smaller lots more economically due to the relatively high cost of yarn preparation and machine set up in warp knitting. These economics lend themselves to shoe manufacturing where relatively small quantities of fabric are used in each shoe. Technit D3 knits 3 yarns per feeder, a ground yarn and two plating yarns. The first plated yarn is fifty percent visible on the fabric face, while the second plated yarn is located inside the fabric, depending on the yarn application and therefore concealed, allowing both yarns to be used as functional yarns which give additional functionality to the fabric. Mayer & Cie. says that the new technology produces fine rib knit goods and 3D spacer fabrics capable of addressing a wide variety of applications, such as fine rib with incorporated functional yarns which can be used for example to provide a shield against electromagnetic waves (EMC) in clothing. Functional yarns can also be used for the electrical transmission of heat in outdoor clothing or seat covers and thermal functions permitting, the selective dissipation of body moisture while offering simultaneous thermal insulation are additional application fields for these newstyle fabrics.

Due to their substantially higher abrasion resistance values (2 yarns per stitch and 3 per feeder), Technit D3 fabrics are particularly suitable where durability is called for. Examples are the home textile sector for seats and upholstered furniture, the automotive sector for linings and seat covers, or for inner linings and inlay soles in shoe production. Mayer says that Technit D3 fabrics can also be used in medical applications where functional yarns can be introduced to impart new fabric properties. An example of this would be the introduction of a silver yarn to give anti-bacterial properties. Mayer says that Technit D3 is undoubtedly set to open up new and exciting scope for replacing conventional methods by lower-cost circular knitting technology with all its benefits such as outstanding elastic stretch and recovery capability. Technit D3 comes with up to 4 needle tracks and is offered as standard with a machine frame for 520mm fabric rolls and Mayers Quick-Change for simple gauge conversion. Technit D3 is optionally available with an industrial frame (920 mm fabric rolls), a giant frame (1250 mm fabric roles), or with an open-width frame. Technit D3 is available in gauges E18, E20 and E22 and in 30 and 34 inch diameters. It has 1.6 feeds per inch (48 feeds on a 30 inch dia.) and can run at speeds of up to 18rpm (30inch). The machine can be supplied in rib or spacer fabric versions and also a conversion kit can be supplied which will allow one machine to be used for producing both rib and spacer fabrics. By exchanging cam parts the production of Interlock-based fabrics is also possible. Mayer has a number of patents pending for the Technit D3 technology and is keen to work with partners to develop new applications for the technology.

INDEX
TOPICS 1. ABOUT CIRCULAR KNITTING 2. CIRCULAR KNITTING IMAGES 3. NEW INNOVATION IN CIRCULAR KNITTING IN THE PAST YEARS 5. BIBLIOGRAPHY 6-29 30 PAGE .NO. 4 5

BIBLIOGRAPHY
WEBSITES:
y y y y www.knittingindustry.com www.google.com www.knitty.com www.vougeknitting.com

MAGAZINES: y VOUGE KNITTING

ACKNOWLEGEMENT
I, would like to thank, Mr. Nishant Sharma and Ms. Tullika ma am for their guidance and support and also for providing me with the opportunity to work on such an interesting document. I, would also like to thank the librarian of my college, for providing me with all the information that I needed. Without his help this document would have been incomplete.