Making Printed Circuit Boards.

The drop-in circuit boards are many programs you can use these include Eagle PCB123 or Spice or Express PCB. In our classroom, we use Express PCB. Express PCB is a freeware package created by companies so that when you make circuit boards, you send it to them and they will make them for you. They can make up to eight layer PCBs. The cost of the printed circuit board will vary depending on size and number items on the board. The cheapest board that I have ever purchased is about $24. The first process in designing a printed circuit board is to download the software and install it on your computer. In our classroom PCB Express is already been installed and there are two shortcuts. Use the PCB one to start ExpressPCB. See below.

Select the chip icon for place a component use the drop-down box favorite components and select 18 pin dip chip, and place it 1/3 of the away across the screen from the left Select a trace and set its thickness 0.020 and create a positive bus across the top and down the left-hand side. Save your work.

Select the chip icon for place a component use the drop-down box favorite components and select a 7805 voltage regulator place it on the desktop to the right of the chip, then select the select items arrow. Select voltage regulator by selecting it. Then select component and ungroup PCB components Delete all parts but the three pads. Place the first three pads besides pin 1 and select Ctrl-C Press Crtl V and select the pasted next three pads and place then beside pin 2 Do the same for one more set of pads beside pin 3. These will be the servo controllers.

Next Select the chip icon for place a component

Use the drop-down box favorite components and select a W resistor and place it beside of near pin 4 so that it can connect to the positive bus. Also connect the servos as shown. Use a 0.012 trace. See below for more info. Save your work

Next Select the chip icon for place a component Use the drop-down box favorite components and select Crystal HC-49U and place it on the desktop. Rotate it by 90 degrees and place it beside pin 16. Link pin 15 to the second pin on the crystal. Save your work Next place the 4 remaining capacitors (Cap lead spacing 0.1 (2.5mm) and assorted traces. Ensure that your final diagram is similar to below. The last part in the top right is a 7805 voltage regulator. Add the pads as shown.

Once you have completed your schematics, you need to save your work to your workstation. Once saved, you need to print your work off on the old HP4, and on Staples Photopaper. Your final output should look similar to below.

You now have a working copy of your work. The idea behind this is that the toner that you use to create letters and images on paper is actually quite high in plastic. We can now melt the toner on the paper and transfer it to the copper clad board. Once transferred, the plastic will prevent the ferric chloride from etching away the copper where ever a line, pad or device is located. The copper clad board is show below.

Before the image on the paper can be transferred to the board, the board must be cleaned. We use a cleaner such as Comet. It is an abrasive to remove the protective film on the board and a de-greaser to remove the grease from sitting around as well as finger prints. Once the board has been WELL cleaned, flip the paper over and place it on the copper clad board. Place the board and paper on a small stack of paper and place a hot iron on top and apply a slight pressure. Do not move the iron once you place it on the paper. Leave the iron on the paper until the paper starts to smoke. Remove the iron and watch the paper (does not ignite) and the copper sheet cool down. Once the copper sheet has cooled, peel off the paper. You may have to use a little water to get the paper off. Do NOT scrape at the paper or you may remove a trace or pad on the copper. The copper sheet should look similar to below. Do not throw away the paper that you peeled off just yet.

Now look at the paper and make not where the toner failed to transfer. Use a fine or coarse

Sharpie to go over the lines and create them in the spots where the toner did not transfer. Note how the lines are blackthat is the Sharpie. Next, we are going to get the Ferric Chloride ready and heat it up. The temperature should always be monitored and never allowed to go above 50 degrees C. We use a beaker to contain the Ferric Chloride. Any metal object placed in it will dissolve quite rapidly; this includes brushes. To help etch the copper, you can use a sponge brush. Once you see the copper dissolve from one spot, you are very close to being done. If you leave it too long, it will dissolve the traces and pads too. See an example of a completed board below.

You can now use a Dremel and drill press to drill out all the pads. Ensure that they are all in a straight line for the servo controllers and PIC. These have to be inserted as one piece. Use care when doing this. Failure to do so will mean you have to start all over. The drills are very tiny, go slow or you will break them.