Vilnius 2

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VILNIUS
December 2010 - March 2011
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks. The New York Times
Inside
A fully updated, impartial scrutiny of the best things Vilnius has to offer visitors for the next four months
Events
N102 - 6Lt www.inyourpocket.com
A comprehensive compendium of the capitals cultural calendar from Casimir to Kylie
Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Basics
Alcohol, electricity, visas and more 5 8 10 16
Contrary to popular opinion, Christmas (Kaldos, meaning Solstice) isnt just about getting strangers pregnant in the stationery cupboard at the office Christmas party. Believe it or not, the festival that is Christmas comes with many deeper, more meaningful emotions, and so before you rush out and buy something ghastly and expensive for somebody you dont even like, spare a thought for other people less fortunate than yourself. One such group of people traditionally associated with Christmas are children, and the main organisation in Lithuania responsible for addressing the issues of the rights of the child and actively doing something about their welfare are Gelbkit Vaikus (Save The Children Lithuania). Forever in need of assistance, find out how you can help them online at www.gelbvaik.lt. And rather than relieving yourself against the Presidential Palace on the way home from the pub this Christmas, turn your attention to one of its former residents, namely Alma Adamkien, the sprightly octogenarian wife of Lithuanias former president who runs an educational fund for underprivileged children living in rural areas. Read more about the funds activities and find out how you can help at www.adamkiene-fondas. lt. Finally, try living life in the spirit of Charles Dickens A Christmas Carol and spare a thought for those who wont have enough to eat this Christmas. Maisto Bankas (Food Bank) is a worthy charity providing food to people throughout the country year round. Their website at www. maistobankas.lt is in Lithuanian only, but thats no excuse for not donating. Look out for their collection points at larger supermarkets around the city.
History
A mind-boggling millennium
Culture & Events

Just the ticket for winter
Where to stay
Five-star luxury, hostels, the lot
Dining & Nightlife

Where to eat Global nosh for all Cafs Where to find the best espresso Nightlife Beer, clubs and a little bit of nakedness 22 35 36 46 57 59 63
Sightseeing
The citys sights, large and small
Jewish Vilnius
The essential guide to the citys lost culture
Getting around
When legs simply arent enough
Mail & Phones
Late-opening post offices and internet cafs
Directory
Shopping Lifestyle Health Business 64 70 73 76 77 78 79 80 82
Maps & Index

Country map Street register City centre map City map Index
Ugavns (see p.11)
vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Foreword
Two decades after independence and Lithuanias endearing albeit bizarre little capital continues to amuse and bemuse in equal measure. After an uncharacteristically hot summer, at press time at the end of November the snow is falling and the fur-lined boots are firmly on for the foreseeable future. Indeed, it sometimes feels theres nowhere quite like Vilnius when it comes to contrasts, whether its restaurants (do you honestly know anywhere in the world that can offer such brilliant and appalling places to dine in the same street?) or the world of political intrigue. Shortly before going to press, an employee of Lithuanias Interior Ministry by the name of Petras Stankeras resigned after writing in a national magazine that the Holocaust is effectively a myth, a frightening opinion from a public servant working in a democratic member state of the European Union at the start of the 21st century. Equally disturbing is the lack of local opposition to such opinions, with only a handful of brave souls fighting to maintain a modicum of tolerance in a country thats starting to look not unlike Germany in the 1930s. Meanwhile, daily life continues in Vilnius, with the opening of new bars, the reconditioning of museums and much much more besides, all of it contained within the pages of your favourite apolitical city guide. Comments, suggestions, high praise and death threats as usual to vilnius@inyourpocket.com.
Europe In Your Pocket
Cover story
As the snow starts to fall, visitors to Vilnius increasingly find themselves staring at the pavement in an attempt to stay standing rather than look at the sights they paid good money to come and see. Vilnius In Your Pocket accepts no responsibility for the weather but does warn readers to be on the lookout for lumps of ice falling from the rooftops as the spring thaw approaches. Have a good winter.
In Your Pocket broke much new ground in 2010, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Den Bosch), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brac and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Nis) and in Switzerland (Zurich). We also took the wraps off Prizren In Your Pocket, a guide to the second largest city in Kosovo, produced in cooperation with Cultural Heritage Without Borders. We also began rolling out iPhone apps to all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket guides in 2011: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright UAB VIYP 1992-2011; some photos, LATGA-A; maps, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiei 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Vilnius In Your Pocket Vokiei 10-15 Vilnius, Lithuania, LT-01130 mob. (+370) 610 468 64 tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76 fax (+370) 5 212 29 82 vilnius@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1392-0057 UAB VIYP Printed by UAB Lietuvos ryto spaustuv Published three times per year Print run 22,000
Editorial Editor Sco Contributor Alex Webber Research Saulina Kochanskait Layout & Design Vaida Gudynait Cover Sco Sales & Circulation Publisher Vilnius In Your Pocket General Manager Rta Klimaviit Accounting CO Finansai Sales Manager Rta Klimaviit
This guidebook and all of our other Lithuanian guides are available for sale from kiosks, tourist information centres, the Vilnius In Your Pocket office and other outlets throughout Vilnius and Lithuania as well as online at www.inyourpocket.com. Complimentary copies of Vilnius In Your Pocket are also available in many hotels.
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
Vilnius In Your Pocket
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Arriving in Vilnius
The three main points of arrival in Vilnius offer very different experiences indeed, making your first few minutes in the city anything from a pleasure to a pain. Improvements are taking place all the time. Print copies of Vilnius In Your Pocket can be bought from kiosks inside the airport, bus and train stations for just 6Lt.
Alcohol
Almost without exception Lithuanian beer (alus) is light, crisp, cold, cheap and delicious. Many varieties exist and youre recommended to test a few before settling on a regular brand. Among the more common varieties are the magnificent vyturys from Klaipda, Utenos from Utena and Kalnapilis from Panevys. Perhaps surprisingly, Vilnius cant claim its own brewery. If you want to drink beer made in the capital youll have to drink it in a microbrewery (see Nightlife). Be warned, Lithuanian beers tend to be stronger than their Western counterparts, making the forming of the simplest words (such as alus) a challenge after just a couple of the most lethal. In Old Town expect to pay somewhere in the region of 6-12Lt for half a litre. Lithuanian vodka (degtin) is cheap, generally of good quality and is drunk with gusto at the mere rumour of the dropping of a hat. Among the more interesting spirits are starka, a 15th-century PolishLithuanian concoction of dark, syrupy rye vodka fortified with apple leaves and lime blossom, and the local illicit firewater, samagonas, available through the right connections. Take note that imported alcohol isnt cheap. Dont go falling into the trap of thinking that because the local stuff is giveaway everything else is too. Check prices before a session to avoid an embarrassingly large bill at the end of the evening. At the time of writing it was illegal to buy alcohol in shops between 22:00 and 08:00 anywhere in Lithuania, one of the countrys more cynical pieces of legislation that does nothing except penalise the countrys poor.
By bus Vilnius rather depressing bus station (Autobus Stotis) is located less that 1km south of Old Town in a less than salubrious, albeit perfectly safe area. Not geared up for foreign arrivals in the slightest, facilities are located inside one large grey building and include kiosks and shops for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, downstairs toilets (1Lt) and ATMs. For 24hour currency exchange, use the Parex bank across the street and just to the right of the train station. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by turning left on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sod). Countless buses, minibuses and trolleybuses can be found in the immediate area, all going off in different directions around the city and none of them offering a lot of help for people who dont speak Lithuanian. Among the useful trolleybuses going through the city centre are N1, 2, 5 and 7. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.50Lt. Taxis are parked up in a number of places. Expect to pay 20Lt or even more for a short trip to Old Town. Calling a taxi in advance is the best option.
Vilniaus Oro Uostas) is just 5km south of the city centre. Even if youre landing from a non-Schengen country, arrival formalities are quick and relatively pain free. After collecting your luggage find a compact arrivals hall complete with a kiosk for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards, ATMs and currency exchange offices. Toilets are to the right, and car rental companies to the left. Getting to town A taxi to Old Town using one of the vehicles parked outside the arrivals terminal will cost about 50Lt. Calling one in advance will cost considerably less. If youre travelling to the centre and dont mind a bit of walking, save a fortune and take public transport. The bus stop is to the left of the taxi stand. Bus N1 goes to the train station and bus N2 to Lukiki Aikt and north over the river past the Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva. A timetable is posted at the stop. Buy a ticket from the driver for 2.50Lt. Alternatively, hop on a train and in under 10 minutes be at the train station in the centre of the city. Buy a ticket on board for just 2.50Lt. The aiport train station can be found along the road outside the main exit and on the left. Trains leave every hour or so from around 07:00 until 20:00.
By plane Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis
Borders
Lithuania is bordered by the Baltic Sea, Belarus, Latvia, Poland and the peculiar Russian exclave born out of the ashes of WWII and the disintegration of the Soviet Union that is Kaliningrad. EU membership and Schengen agreements have as good as removed all border formalities with Latvia and Poland whilst getting in an out of Belarus and Kaliningrad remains wrapped up in red tape for holders of most passports. Visas for both can be obtained from the Belarusian and Russian embassies in Vilnius as well as from a few travel agencies. Visas for Kaliningrad are now available if you arrive there by air. For more information about getting in and out of Lithuania, see the website at www.pasienis.lt.
Communism
Ostalgie never really caught on with the Lithuanians, which is a shame because Lithuania boasts some fine examples of Soviet architecture and design to entice potential new visitors in abundance. Those toying with the idea of coming with the intention of Soviet sightseeing should take note however that the situation is changing fairly rapidly. Hammers and sickles have almost entirely vanished in Vilnius with the exception of a tiny one on the northeastern Green Bridge (aliasis Tiltas, see p.53) statue plus a few tell-tale marks where they once graced the sides of State buildings. Structures of note include the imposing rows of socialist-realist monstrosities at the western end of (G-3) Gedimino and the minimalist concrete curves of the (G-4) Wedding Palace (Santuok Rmai) on top of the hill close to the green onion domes of the Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine. Beautiful, Soviet-era designs can also be found inside the capitals Neringa restaurant (see p.30), and, last but not least, you can still enjoy the full unpleasantness of the Soviet service industry courtesy of a frighteningly large percentage of the countrys shop assistants, public transport employees and waiting staff. Soviet-era souvenirs can be found at Kalvarij Market (see p.67).
By train The train station (Geleinkelio Stotis) is fairly large by local standards and unfortunately not very well signposted in English. Find kiosks and shops for snacks, maps, cigarettes and prepaid mobile phone cards scattered in and around the building, free toilets downstairs, ATMs between the local and international ticket offices and a 24-hour Parex bank outside to the left for changing money. The train station also has a small tourist information kiosk, which among other things features friendly staff who speak English. Getting to town Get to Old Town in a few minutes by going straight ahead on exiting the station and walking down the hill (Sod). The train station is just across the street from the bus station. See By bus for more information.
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Climate
The climate information below only gives an average indication of what to expect. Winter temperatures often plummet to below -20C. 30 20 10 0 -10 -20 J F M A M J J A S O N D
Driving
The common or garden Lithuanian driver is notable for possessing certain eccentric habits almost unheard of in the West. A typical, edge-of-the-seat adventure sat beside a local Lewis Hamilton comes with lashings of tailgating, cutting lanes and dangerous overtaking manoeuvres. It comes as no great surprise to non-Italian Westerners whove been in the country for more than a couple of days to learn that Lithuania has the highest rate of road fatalities in the European Union. If youre unfortunate enough to be involved in an accident in which any material or personal damage occurs, you must leave your vehicle exactly where it is, call the police (tel. 112) and wait for them to arrive. Even if your car is obstructing the flow of traffic, dont move it until the police get there and have danced about the wreckage with a tape measure and some lollipops, drawn some little pictures, and given you the all-clear. Not only is leaving the scene of an accident an offence, but the lack of an official police report will give insurance companies the excuse theyre looking for not to pay. Seat belts must be worn and headlights must be on at all times while driving. All vehicles must be fitted with a small fire extinguisher and carry a first-aid kit, a reflective road-side warning triangle and a reflective safety-vest. You must have your vehicle registration papers and licence with you at all times. During the winter, youll also want to make sure you have an ice scraper and maybe a brush for getting all the weather off your car before you set off. Winter tyres are mandatory from November 10. In and around town the speed limit is 50km/h unless indicated otherwise. Elsewhere you can drive at 90km/h on asphalt roads and 70km/h on dirt roads, and on highways you can drive at 130km/h until October 31, when youll have to stick to 110km/h until March 31.
Temperature, C
Rainfall, mm
100 75 50 25 0
Crime & Safety

Crime is rampant in Lithuania, a great deal of it taking place inside the clandestine world of politics and consequently having little if no effect on the average visitor. Crimes closer to home include such petty annoyances as having bits of your car stolen to the inevitable disappearing purses and mobile phones. Dont leave valuables in unattended pockets or lying around on tables. The chances of getting robbed in the street remain tiny. However, caution never did anybody any harm, and youre advised not to flaunt your wallet in stupid places or announce to the entire world your huge wealth by wearing loud jewellery in quiet back streets. Walk tall, look like you know what youre doing, and you wont be troubled. Green-uniformed police (policija) are supposed to be keeping the peace in Old Town, although finding one when you need is like looking for the proverbial needle in the haystack.
Electricity
Lovely Lithuanian domestic electricity flows out the walls at 220V, AC 50Hz, and nearly all sockets are of the round twopin European variety. Some thinner Russian sockets still exist, although if you push hard enough you should get the plug in. Travellers from non-socket-friendly societies should bring an appropriate adaptor, as theyre almost impossible to find in Lithuania. The infamous Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant is now well and truly closed, although plans to replace it are currently being discussed.
Customs
Those arriving from other EU countries have no import restrictions placed upon them, although they will need to make it known if theyre arriving with more than 10,000 worth of cash. When arriving from non-EU countries youre entitled to bring in one litre of spirits or four litres of wine or sixteen litres of beer plus 200 cigarettes, 100 cigarillos, 50 cigars or 250g of tobacco. You cant bring meat, milk or dairy products from outside the EU except under certain circumstances. You cant arrive with live birds other than pets for non-commercial purposes. Dogs require vaccinations and passports (or other proof of vaccination). You can take home as much art as you wish tax free unless its over 50 years old, in which case expect to pay 10-20 per cent duty. Take two photographs of the art piece and your passport to the Committee of Cultural Heritage, nipiki 3, tel. +370 527 342 56. Many of the better antique shops in Vilnius can take care of all the paperwork for you. For more detailed information check www.cust.lt, and for information on animal related arrivals, check www.vet.lt.
Basic data
Population Lithuania 3,354,000 Vilnius 544,206 Ethnic composition (Lithuania) Lithuanians 84.3% Poles 6.2% Russians 5% Belarusians 1.1% Ukrainians 0.6% Others 2.8% Territory 65,303km2 Roughly twice the size of Belgium, and the largest of the three Baltic nations. Fertile lowland, peppered with many lakes. North to south, the greatest distance is 276km, east to west is 373km Borders Baltic Sea 99km Belarus 502km Latvia
453km Poland 91km Russia (Kaliningrad) 227km
Disabled travellers
While things have greatly improved for the disabled over the past few years, Lithuania is still a tough place to get around on anything other than two well functioning legs. Even places that claim to be wheelchair friendly are often flanked by deep kerbs or stairs, or are located on cobbled streets. Outside the capital, youll be lucky to find any thought given to wheelchair accessibility at all. The newer trolleybuses in Vilnius have low entries, spaces for wheelchairs, and hearing loops.
Longest river Nemunas 937km (475km in Lithuania) Largest lake Drkiai 4,479ha Highest point Auktasis 293.8m vilnius.inyourpocket.com
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Exchange rates
1=3.45Lt 1=4.09Lt US$1=2.63Lt (November 30, 2010)
National holidays
Lithuanians would celebrate the opening of an envelope. The following are the official public holidays. January 1 New Years Day & National Flag Day February 16 Independence Day March 11 Restoration of Independence April 24 (2011) Easter Sunday (Catholic) April 25 (2011) Easter Monday (Catholic) May 1 A day off for the workers! May 1 (2011) Mothers Day June 24 Jonins, or Midsummer July 6 Crowning of King Mindaugas August 15 olin (Assumption) November 1 All Saints Day December 25, 26 Christmas (Catholic)
Floors
The Lithuanians consider the floor at street level to be the first floor, and so on.
Language
Lithuanian is a very odd language indeed. One of the oldest still spoken today, the tongue that time forgot is supposedly similar in grammatical form as well as sharing many of the same words with, of all things, Sanskrit. With seven noun cases, four declension patterns, absolutely no similarity to anything youve ever heard before and an obligation to pronounce the stress on every word in the right place to stand any chance whatsoever of being understood, getting to grips with the local lingo is at best tough. Thankfully, most places where tourists congregate in the country are now fairly English-friendly, plus Lithuanias rich cultural past has left an accumulation of polyglots nationwide, with Russian spoken almost everywhere, Polish in and around the capital and German the closer you get to the coast.
Service
Anyone who spends more than a couple of days immersed in Lithuanian life cant fail to notice just how extraordinarily indifferent if not just plain rude some public servants can be. From the middle-aged lady in the post office to the waitress in the expensive restaurant youre dining in, dont be surprised to get no eye contact, and if you do get eye contact, dont be too surprised either to watch those eyes roll with utter contempt. Even the ever-increasing examples of friendly service here often come with an ineptitude of mammoth proportions, so, if youre sensitive to these things be prepared to bite your lip and suffer. If theres a culprit at work then its surely management, from the mandarins who oversee the large state organisations to the bar owners who cant be bothered to train their staff.
Money & Costs

The unit of currency in Lithuanian is the litas (Lt), which comes in denominations of 10Lt, 20Lt, 50Lt, 100Lt, 200Lt and 500Lt notes, 1Lt, 2Lt and 5Lt coins and a number of weightless, worthless and perfectly useless centai/cent coins. The litas is pegged to the euro at the rate of 3.45Lt to 1. Most places of any note in Vilnius happily accept major credit cards, and ATMs joyfully spew out money to any foreigner with money in their account. If youre planning a trip to the countryside however, make sure you take plenty of cash along as it can still be rather old fashioned to say the least. Vilnius is no longer the cheap city for foreigners it used to be, although it still offers value to most visitors from the West. A good night out for two in Vilnius Old Town including a meal in a posh restaurant followed by drinks in a bar and a club to finish off wont leave you with much change, if any change at all, from 100. Most prices have rocketed of late, although short-term accommodation is still extremely good value. A handy tip for visitors to Lithuania from the UK is that 1 is currently worth more or less exactly 4lt.
Smoking
If its Lithuanian and its got a lung that works then it probably smokes. Many popular international cigarette brands are readily available, and cigars, pipes, rolling tobacco and cigarette papers are also reasonably well represented. Compared to somewhere like the UK, cigarettes in Lithuania are ridiculously cheap. Lithuanias pipe-smoking former Prime Minister Gediminas Kirkilas not so long ago forgot to remember that smoking is banned in all cafs, bars, restaurants, and clubs. He should have checked our listings for venues with special smoking rooms and avoided a 1,000Lt fine.
Toilets
Just utter the two magic words kur tualetas? (wheres the toilet?) and away you go. Bars and hotels happily let you use their facilities, although some have started to enforce a small charge for non-patrons. With the exception of a few non-tourist bars, all toilets are clean and are stocked with plenty of paper and soap. A ghastly relic from days gone by that refuses to go away even in many of the swankiest establishments is the provision of a filthy bucket, kept next to the toilet, and used for the collection of spent paper.
Religion
Contemporary Lithuania is a predominantly Catholic country with almost 80 per cent of the population pledging allegiance to the Pope. Pagan Lithuanians avoided Christianity until relatively late in European history, finally converting for political reasons in 1387 in the eastern half of the country and in 1413 in the west. The countrys pagan heritage can still be seen in many aspects of life including the days of the week (literally First Day, Second Day etc.), the continued naming of its female population after flowers and plants and the countless festivals throughout the year that remain very much as they were before the coming of Christianity. The area that makes up contemporary Lithuania has historically been the proud home of countless religions over the centuries, among them Russian Orthodox, Protestant, Muslim and of course Judaism, of which the former makes up the second largest population at just under five per cent. Its considered polite for men to remove their hats and women to cover their shoulders when visiting a Catholic church.
Visas
Lithuania is a member of the European Union and the Schengen area. Visitors from the EU as well as from 30 or so other countries including Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, Singapore, South Korea and the United States dont require a visa to stay for up to 90 days within a six month period. A visa issued for any Schengen country is also valid in Lithuania. For more information, take a look at www.urm.lt.
history
The Lithuanian state arose and strengthened to counter the religious fervour of crusading German knights. Lithuania was the last European country to convert to Christianity. Its history is both bloody and exceedingly complicated 7th-2nd centuries BC The first Baltic tribes establish themselves on whats now known as Lithuanian territory. 11th century The word Lithuania is first used in written texts in AD1009. At the same time, a wooden castle is built on Vilnius Gediminas Hill (Gedimino Kalnas), leading to the construction of a diminutive settlement beneath it. 13th century emaitians defeat the Livonian Knights at the Battle of Saul in 1236, establishing the settlement of iauliai. After uniting local chieftains, on July 6, 1253 Mindaugas (circa 12031263) is crowned Lithuanias one and only king. During his reign as the first Christian sovereign of the state, Vilnius Cathedral is built. However, the majority of the population remains pagan. 14th century In 1323 Grand Duke Gediminas (circa 12751341) sends letters to various Germanic-speaking towns, inviting their craftsmen and merchants to settle in Vilnius with the promise of religious freedom. Trying to ensure peace, in 1325 he forms a union with Poland by marrying his daughter Aldona to the Polish kings son. The Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth comes into being with the 1387 Krva Union, whereby Gediminas grandson Jogaila (circa 13481434) becomes a Polish king by marrying the Polish Princess Jadwiga (circa 1373-1399). Even with the increased security, the Teutonic Knights still manage to invade, resulting in the 1390 burning of the wood-constructed Vilnius. 15th century The Teutonic Knights are eventually defeated on July 15, 1410 by joint Polish-Lithuanian armies led by Jogaila and Grand Duke Vytautas (1350-1430) at the Battle of Grunwald (Lithuanian, algiris. German, Tannenberg), one of the greatest battles in medieval Europe. The country flourishes and by 1430 the borders extend from the Baltic to the Black Sea. 16th century The Renaissance sees marked cultural advances, notably the printing of the first Lithuanian book in 1547, and the founding of Vilnius University in 1579. The end of the Jogaila dynasty in 1572 results in the political and cultural marginalisation of Lithuania. Polish becomes the state language. The Livonian Wars (1558-1582) with Russia and Sweden drain the Commonwealths resources. 18th century At the start of the 18th century both Swedish and Russian forces try to seize control of Vilnius. In 1795 Lithuania is incorporated into tsarist Russia. The 120-year Russian occupation is only interrupted by a short liberation by Napoleons army in 1812 on his failed campaign to Moscow. During the Napoleonic armys return through Vilnius nearly 40,000 of his soldiers die due to starvation and extreme cold. 19th century Vilnius University acts as a hotbed of dissent against the tsarist government, culminating in the 1831 November Uprising, which leads to the closing of the institution. Russification ensues with non-Orthodox churches forcibly closed, the Lithuanian language banned in 1864 and the country named the Northwest Region. The ban on the Latin script forces the smuggling in of books from neighbouring East Prussia. Another uprising takes place in 1863 and General Muravyov (The Hangman) is sent from Moscow to restore order, resulting in deaths by hanging for most of the leading activists. The repression is countered and defied by a revival of Lithuanian culture and tradition. In 1883 Jonas Basanaviius (1851-1927) publishes the first Lithuanian-language newspaper, Auszra (Aura, or Dawn).
1988 June 3 The Lithuanian reform movement Sjdis is founded by some 500 representatives of the intelligentsia, advocating openness, democracy and sovereignty. August 23 Some 250,000 people gather in Vilnius to mark the 49th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. October 7 The Lithuanian flag is raised on Gediminas Castle. 1989 February 16 Lithuanian Independence Day is officially commemorated. August 23 An estimated 2,000,000 Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians join hands in a human chain stretching the 650km between Vilnius and Tallinn to protest the 50th anniversary of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. 1990 January 11-13 Mikhail Gorbachevs visit to Vilnius is far from pleasant as 300,000 pro-independence demonstrators turn out to welcome him. March 4 Proindependence Sjdis candidates receive an overall majority in the first free elections in Lithuania since 1940. March 11 The Supreme Council (later to become Parliament, or Seimas) declares the restoration of Lithuanian independence and demands the withdrawal of Soviet forces. Dr. Vytautas Landsbergis is elected parliamentary chairman. April 17 Moscow imposes an economic blockade.
Independence & Beyond
20th century
During the W\WI German occupation of 1 91 5 - 1 91 8 th e Li thuanian Council proclaims independence on February 16, 1918. As the Germans retreat, the Lithuanian state comes under attack by the Polish General Jzef Pisudski (1867-1935) who seizes control of Vilnius and areas south of it from 1920-1939. Poland maintains control of these areas by claiming they were a portion of the prewar Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. Kaunas becomes the interim capital of Lithuania until 1940. During the inter-war period independent Lithuania prospers under the 14-year dictatorship (1926-1940) of the nationalist president Antanas Smetona (1874-1944). Lithuanian independence ends with the clandestine signing on August 23, 1939 of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact between Hitler and Stalin, who carve up Europe into portions to be controlled by Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. Lithuania is subject to both Soviet and Nazi occupation. Between 1941-1944 the Nazis and their Lithuanian henchmen organise the mass murder of over 200,000 Jews, 94% of the entire Litvak population. The return of the Red Army and the re-incorporation of Lithuania into the USSR on July 7, 1944 results in the deportation of some 250,000 Lithuanians to Siberia, a task theyd already begun in 1941 before the Nazis arrived. Lithuanian partisans, dubbed the Forest Brothers (Miko Broliai), wage guerrilla warfare until 1953. In an act of protest against the Soviet occupation, on May 14, 1972 19-year-old student Romas Kalanta sets fire to himself in public in Kaunas, dying from his wounds.
history
1991 January 13 Soviet forces try unsuccessfully to storm the parliamentary building in Vilnius. A large crowd ensures the delegates are safe inside. However, during the Soviet bid to reclaim the media by storming the Television Tower, 14 people are killed. February 12 Iceland becomes the first country to recognise an independent Lithuania. July 31 Seven border guards and policemen are killed at the Medininkai border checkpoint by Soviet Special Forces. August 21 The Moscow putsch collapses. Soviet troops leave the buildings theyve occupied since January. Lenins statue is removed from Vilnius Lukiki Aikt (Lukiks Square). A photograph of the event appears on the cover of Issue N1 of Vilnius In Your Pocket, published on May 1, 1992. August 29 Sweden becomes the first Western country to open an embassy in Vilnius. September 2 The USA recognises Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. September 17 All th ree Bal tic countries are re -admi t ted into the UN. 1992 February 8 Lithuanians participate under their own flag at the Winter Olympics for the first time since 1928. 1993 June 25 Lithuanias pre-war currency, the litas, is re-introduced. August 31 The last Russian soldier leaves Lithuania. September 4-8 Pope John Paul II visits. 1994 December Vilnius Old Town joins the list of Unesco World Heritage sites. 1997 July 1 The Lithuanian Parliament (Seimas) passes a property restitution law, allowing pre-war property owners and their descendants to reclaim property nationalised under the Soviet regime. 1998 January 4 Valdas Adamkus is elected president. Adamkus, who fled Lithuania in 1944, was a senior official at the Environmental Protection Agency in Chicago before returning to Lithuania to run for president. December 21 Seimas abolishes the death penalty in response to international pressure from the EU. 1999 December 13 Accession talks begin between Lithuania and the EU with a projected date of 2004. A major stumbling block is the decommissioning of the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant. 2003 In the January 5 run-off election, president Valdas Adamkus is voted out of office by the 46-year-old right wing underdog Rolandas Paksas. May 10-11 A staggering 91% of the 64% of the population who turned out to vote give a resounding Yes to EU membership. 2004 Jan-April Impeachment hearings take place as president Rolandas Paksas is found guilty of violating the Lithuanian constitution and his oath as president in his dealings with unsavoury Russian business partners. April 2 Lithuania becomes a fully-fledged member of Nato and the EU on May 1. June 27 A 77-year-old Valdas Adamkus is re-elected president. July Virgilijus Alekna, whose day job is protecting the president, wins a gold medal at the Athens Olympics in the discus. December 31 The Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant says farewell to the first of its two RBMK reactors. 2005 September 15 A Russian SU-27 fighter veers off course and crashes 55km north of Kaunas. December 13 The Lithuanian Supreme Court acquits former president Rolandas Paksas, but leaves his impeachment in place. 2006 May 16 Lithuania becomes the first EU member state to have its application to adopt the euro rejected due to an unsatisfactory inflation rate. May 13 Prime Minister Algirdas Brazauskas and his coalition government resign as two ministers face allegations of corruption. October 17-18 Queen Elizabeth II and her husband, the Duke of Edinburgh, visit Vilnius. 2007 November 28 President Valdas Adamkus is awarded the title of European of the Year by the European Voice newspaper. December 21 Lithuania joins the Schengen zone, allowing borderless travel to and from other Schengen countries. December 22 The Lithuanian Television and Radio Commission bans broadcasting of the Voice of Russia radio station. 2008 June Lithuania outlaws the public display of Nazi and Soviet symbols. August While most public attention is on basketball, Edvinas Krungolcas and Andrejus Zadneprovskis win silver and bronze respectively in the modern pentathlon at the Beijing Olympics. The Lithuanian basketball team reach the semi-finals but eventually come home empty handed. 2009 Lithuania celebrates 1,000 years since its name was first mentioned in written texts. January 17 With 90Lt million of mounting debts, the national airline, flyLAL, suspends all services. Dalia Grybauskait, the so-called Iron Lady, is inaugurated as Lithuanias first female president on July 12. December 31 Vilnius bows out of a disastrous year as European Capital of Culture on the same day as the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant closes for good. 2010 Lithuania celebrates 20 years of independence from the Soviet Union on March 11. In a sinister U-turn, on May 19 a court in Klaipda approves the public display of swastikas arguing that they represent Lithuanias historical heritage, not Nazi Germany. On June 26, at the age of 77, Lithuanias final First Secretary under the Communists and its first post-independence president dies after a short battle with cancer. Lithuania take bronze medal in the World Basketball Championship in Turkey after defeating Serbia 99-88 on September 12. 2011 Lithuania commemorates the centenary of the death of the painter and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis.
21st century
2000 At the Sydney Olympics Lithuania wins two gold and three bronze medals. The basketball team wins its third Olympic bronze coming within a few points of beating the American dream team for gold. 2001 June 23-27 The Dalai Lama visits Lithuania, visiting various sites in Vilnius and Kaunas. 2002 February 2 The litas switches pegging from the US dollar to the euro in readiness for EU accession, into which the country is invited to join on October 9. November 22 Lithuania is invited to become a member of Nato. George Bush visits Vilnius the following day, becoming the first US president to visit the city.
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Culture & events

Major events
Until January 9 The Orphans Representing the work of the Lithuanian architects Gediminas Baravykas, Algimantas Alekna, vaigdras Drma, Gintautas Lika, Gytis Ramunis, Saulius arkinas, Henrikas ilgalis and Gintautas Telksnys, The Orphans presents through a series of original sketches, drawings and models the unfulfilled dreams of these Soviet-era artists who were forced to work on buildings according to Soviet doctrine. The title derives from Baravykas, who according to legend used to answer the telephone as Nalaitis (Orphan) Guga, reflecting his own feelings as an outsider in the world of international architecture. The exhibition is on at the citys National Art Gallery (see p.48). Until January 30 Grunwald Expos Timed to coincide with the 600th anniversary of one of the most important battles in Medieval Europe, this intriguiging exhibition at the citys Radvila Palace (see p.54) subtitled How this Happened in the Great Battle has been assembled by historians from several countries and aims to explore the common heritage shared between several nations affected by the battle through a series of paintings, documents and other Battle of Grunwaldrelated artifacts.
Fashion of the Victorian Era

Until December 31 A fascinating look into the world of European womens fashion between 1837 and 1901 is currently on show at the citys Applied Art Museum (see p.46). Part of the Russian fashion expert and historian Alexandre Vassilievs private collection, the exhibition features 50 examples of authentic clothing plus accessories including fans, parasols, purses, strangulating corsets and other items including paintings and photographs that together chart the changing face of fashion throughout the continent at the time. Although scheduled to run until the end of the year, there are plans to extend the exhibition further into 2011. December 7 W.A.S.P. US heavy metal heroes W.A.S.P. grace the stage of Vilnius Forum Palace on December 17, bringing their own unique brand of music to the good people of the Lithuanian capital. Earplugs not provided. December 10 Ran Blake Born on April 20, 1935 the American pianist and composer Ran Blake fuses jazz, gospel, blues and other styles into a unique sound thats seen him record over 30 albums during his long career. The concert is made up of two halves, the first seeing Blake perform solo. During the second half of the show at St. Catherines Church (see p.12) the pianist will be joined on stage by the sinister-sounding guitarist David Knife Fabris. December 10 Nino Katamadze & Insight The 38-year-old Georian jazz singer Nino Katamadze, whose work has been described as music to be inhaled rather than understood, whatever that means, brings a set of original pieces to the stage of Vilnius Forum Palace on December 10 along with backing band Insight. December 11 Fischer/Pederson Duo Legendary Danish double bass player Jimmi Roger Pedersen and guitarist Jacob Fischer bring their own brand of music to Vilnius St. Catherines Church (see p.12) for one night only in a concert that fuses their own particular style with a mixture of festive-inspired compositions. December 26 30 Christmas at the Chodkeviiai Palace A series of five concerts held in the former Chodkeviiai Palace, now home to the Vilnius Picture Gallery (see p.49), starting on December 26 with A Cappella Christmas featuring songs from the male choir Quorum. Other events in chronological order include Silver Christmas Carols on December 27, Romantics in the Flames of the Frost on December 28, Snowy Miniatures on December 29 and Tango for the Snowflakes on December 30. December 28 Goran Bregovi Bosnian legend Goran Bregovi (b. March 22, 1950), whos worked with everyone from Iggy Pop to Cesria vora during his long career blends Balkan, Gypsy and classical sounds together with the help of his astonishing Wedding & Funeral Orchestra. The composer of countless film scores, Goran Bregovi appears at the citys Pramog Arena (see p.12) on December 28.
Festive events
Its become something of a tradition in the Vilnius In Your Pocket office to become excited by the numerous events taking place in the city over Christmas and New Year only to be frustrated by an inability by the Municipality to know whats going on. Whats known for certain is that the lights on the Christmas tree in Cathedral Square will be switched on this year on December 11 at 19:00, although no corresponding concerts are planned. The infamous lighting up of the Television Tower (see p.55), allegedly the worlds largest Christmas tree, is due on December 18, presumably after dark, although no more information is available at the time of going to press. Ditto, we havent got a clue what the capitals taxpayers are getting by way of outdoor concerts at the New Year. The good news is that theres now a website that aims to keep people informed. See www.kaledossostineje.lt for more information.
Culture & events

December 18 Vanessa-Mae Born in Singapore to Thai and Chinese parents and a British citizen, violinist Vanessa-Mae needs no introduction. If youre in the Lithuanian capital on Decemeber 18 and youd like to see her on her Violin Magic Period Tour, get thee to the Siemens Arena (see p.12). December 29 Smokie in Symphony Spend more than two days skulking in the bars of Lithuania and youll start to recognise a certain love affair between the country and Bradfords answer to Spinal Tap, Smokie. Playing in cahoots with the Kaunas Symphony Orchestra as part of a larger world tour, the band appear at the Siemens Arena (see p.12) on December 29. December 30 The Queen Symphony The work of British composer Tolga Kashif, The Queen Symphony gets its inspiration from songs by the band of the same name. Now a popular part of several orchestras around the world, this particular performance comes courtesy of none other than the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra conducted by Gintaras Rinkeviius. The fun takes place inside the city-centre Vilnius Congress Hall (see p.12). December 31 New Years Eve Concert An evening of Michael Jackson songs rendered into Gospel style and performed by the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra marks a fitting end to an equally bizzare year in Lithuania. For those interested, the fun takes place inside the Vilnius Congress Hall (see p.12). December 31 Swan Lake Part of a six-city tour of the country, the legendary, Glasnostera Moscow City Ballet perform Tchaikovskys infamous ballet at Vilnius Pramog Arena (see p.12) on New Years Eve. March 8 Laima Vaikule International Womens Day is celebrated with a performance by the 46-year-old Latvian singer, actress and choreographer Laima Vaikule. A former darling of the USSR, Vaikule has carved herself a nice career in post-Soviet Europe thanks to her aforementioned multi-talented capabilities. See her at the citys Pramog Arena (see p.12)
11
Independence Days
On March 11, 2011 Lithuania remembers the members of the general public and the Lithuanian politicians who fought against the Soviet ad ministrati on to gain independence in 1990. Lithuania was the first Soviet republic to break away from the claws of Moscow, a fact it remains proud of. Expect several events on the day, including the now infamous marches along Gedimino from the Cathedral end, often populated by some of the countrys more fanatical patriots. Most attention this winter though will as usual be focused on the anniversary of Lithuanian nationhood on February 16, 2011. This marks the signing in 1918 of the Declaration of Independence in Vilnius Signatories House (see p.48). An interesting and often overlooked historical aside dating from the time relates to the strange tale of William Charles Florestan Gero Crescentius, who was elected King of Lithuania on July 18, 1918. Although he was neither crowned nor set foot on Lithuanian soil, Mindaugas II as he was known ruled the nation until November 2 when the Lithuanian Council declared the Crown null and void. February 26 Kylie Promoting her 10th album on her Aphrodite Les Folies Tour 2011, former Neighbours star and recipient of an OBE no less, Kyile Minogue perfoms in the citys Siemens Arena in February. March 14 Roxette According to the Swedish pop duos website It all started in Liverpool, right after the Second World War, or, if you prefer, I think it was the trousers. With a combined age of over 100, its not surprsing that theyve lost the plot. Love them or loathe them, theyre going to play at the Siemens Arena (see p.12) whether you like it or not. March 4 6 Kaziukas Fair Vilnius annual folk-art knees-up takes to the capitals streets once again in March, offering the usual blend of wicker baskets, beer and moustaches. Held in honour of the countrys Patron Saint, Casimir, this annual festival of Polish origin gravitates around the Town Hall (see p.55) but is known to seep into other parts of the city. March 17 St. Patricks day Were pretty certain every capital city in the EU has an Irish pub, with the exception of Vilnius. For more infomation see Warsaw In Your Pocket, Riga In Your Pocket etc. March 18 - 31 Kino Pavasaris Now in its 16th year, the annual Kino Pavasaris (Cinema Spring) festival is one of the highlights of the capitals cultural events. Featuring films of all genres from all parts of the world, the 2011 festival is yet to publish a schedule. Keep an eye on www.kinopavasaris.lt for more information.
Ugavns
Known around the world as Mardi Gras, Shrove Tuesday and in the vernacular as Pancake Day, the Lithuanian version of the festivities held on the day before Ash Wednesday at the start of Lent is called Ugavns (literally, before lent), a distinctly pagan celebration marking a slightly pre-emptive return of the sun. In Vilnius on the day expect much frolicking and prancing about in costumes designed to belittle the countrys minorities, a traditional tradesmens fair outside the Town Hall (see p.55) complete with food, beer, hot wine and pancakes and the burning of Mor, the pagan Goddess of Death wholl be dragged through the streets before being set on fire whilst two people dressed as Kanapinis and Laininis have a fight. The irresistible if somewhat incomprehensible and controversial fun continues into the night with much dancing, playing, pancake-eating and of course drinking. Ask a local for more information.
12
Culture & events

Arts & Crafts
05 20, www.amatugildija.puslapiai.lt. The ceramic artist Mindaugas Rutkauskas is almost completely blind yet manages to produce some great ceramics from classic earthenware crockery to complete ceramic stoves. He shares this workshop with several other artists. Feel free to have a look around. Most of the work on display is for sale. Also at S. Skapo 3 - 34. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Delmonas H-4, J. Basanaviiaus 16/5 (entrance on Mindaugo), tel. (+370) 653 826 47. Traditional fabrics including painting on silk and things made from flax. Regular workshops are available for those whod like to get involved rather than just buy. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Jonas Bugailikis Art Studio C-5, Auros Vart 1710, tel. (+370) 652 366 13. A local mini-celebrity knocking out all manner of fabulous wooden eccentricities based on a combination of traditional Lithuanian folk art and the contents of a very unique mind. Q By appointment only. J www.ceramics.w3.lt. The ancient art of black ceramics brought to life inside this intriguing little hands-on gallery. Buy examples of the craft or attend one of their regular workshops. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 13:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J Tautodailininko Dirbtuv G-4, J. Basanaviiaus 29, tel. (+370) 686 108 04, www.klaidaspapercuts.lt. Folk artist Klaidas Navickas works as a lawyer during the day and creates some exquisite works of art using just a scalpel and piece of paper in his spare time. Known in Lithuanian as karpiniai, this old craft, which has been used to decorate homes during special celebrations for centuries, is available for sale, or with patience and a steady hand you can learn how to do it yourself. Q Open 17:00 - 20:00, Wed, Thu 15:00 - 19:00, Fri 16:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun call in advance. Uupio Galerija D-3, Uupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 231 23 18, www.uzupiogalerija.lt. A tiny gallery dealing in exclusive metal and enamel works from a range of Lithuanian artists. A combined workshop and gallery, youll usually find somebody working there, wholl be only too pleased to explain what theyre up to. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA Uupio Kalvysts Galerija - Muziejus I-4, Uupio 26, tel. (+370) 687 512 55, www.vilniauskalviai.lt. A small working gallery dedicated to the art of the blacksmith. Watch people at work, buy something as a unique gift or souvenir or ask about their regular workshops. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Amat Gildija B-4, Prancikon 6, tel. (+370) 5 212
Pasaka B-3, v. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 261 15
during the winter is worth a mention for being one of the few places in town to catch arthouse films.
16, www.kinopasaka.lt. A compact Old Town cinema specialising in predominantly independent and/or arthouse films from a wide range of directors including Woody Allen and the interesting Lithuanian film maker Janina Lapinskait. J Skalvija H-3, A. Gotauto 2/15, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 05, www.skalvija.lt. The best place in the city for arthouse and underground cinema and meeting people who like it in the attached caf-bar.
Jazz Kablys A-6, Kauno 3a, tel. (+370) 617 082 26, www.jazzkablys.lt. Inside the large building with the equally big hook sticking out the front, Jazz Kablys aims to provide punters with a good range of predominantly mainstream live jazz from home and abroad. Theres also a bar and small kitchen. See the website for concerts. J
(+370) 5 261 26 91, www.lmta.lt. The place to come and see performances by the cream of the countrys next generation of professional musicians. Concerts including established performers and conductors from Lithuania and abroad also take place here from time to time. J
Concert halls
Molio Laum (Black Ceramics Workshop Gallery) A-4/5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 699 424 56,
Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy (Lietuvos Muzikos ir Teatro Akademija) G-3, Gedimino 42, tel.
(+370) 5 266 52 33, www.nationalphilharmonic.eu. Featuring a concert hall and a smaller chamber hall, the Lithuanian National Symphony Orchestra was established in 1940. Concerts are performed by a range of ensembles including the aforementioned orchestra as well as the iurlionis String Quartet and the chamber ensemble Musica Humana to name but a few. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon. JA Piano.lt B-4, Trak 9/1 (entrance on Kdaini), tel. (+370) 5 203 28 91, www.piano.lt. Hidden away down an Old Town backstreet, this small concert hall arranges concerts of many types including classical and jazz. These are the people you should visit if youre thinking of buying a new piano. J Pramog Arena E-2, uolyno 9, tel. (+370) 5 242 44 44, www.pramoguarena.lt. A large ice-skating rink on the outskirts of the city that also hosts the occasional concert, the Pramog Arena is one of the venues for the annual Vilnius Jazz Festival. Siemens Arena H-1, Ozo 14, tel. (+370) 5 247 75 76, www.siemens-arena.com. The quintessential all-purpose arena staging everything from international basketball matches to big name rock concerts. A B-3, Vilniaus 30, tel. (+370) 5 262 04 21, www.kultura. lt. A city-owned concert space inside a magnificent, converted 18th-century Baroque church. Concerts are varied and often very good indeed. J kio Banko Teatro Arena I-3, Olimpiei 3, tel. (+370) 683 773 57, www.teatroarena.lt. The main venue for the OKT theatre company (see Theatres), this large place on the edge of town is also a concert venue among other things. B-1, Vilniaus 6/14, tel. (+370) 5 261 88 28, www.lvso. lt. Home to the Lithuanian State Symphony Orchestra, this city-centre venue features some fine acoustics and organises everything from serious classical concerts to shows for children. Q Box office open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Lithuanian National Philharmonic (Lietuvos Nacionalin Filharmonija) C-5, Auros Vart 5, tel.
Cinema
Films are usually shown in their original language with Lithuanian subtitles.
St. Catherines Church (v. Kotrynos Banyia)
Forum Cinemas Vingis G-4, Savanori 7, tel. 1567, www.forumcinemas.lt. Mostly popular Hollywood films inside a dedicated multiplex close to the city centre. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis).
Vasario 16-osios 13, www.lfc.lt. Promoting Lithuanian film and film-related issues, the Lithuanian Film Centre also screens a few films and hosts the occasional film festival. Multikino H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 219 53 78, www.multikino.lt. Ozo Kino Sal H-1, Ozo 4, tel. (+370) 646 861 71. North of the city, this basic cinema that cant guarantee heating
Lithuanian Film Centre (Lietuvi Film Centras)
Vilnius Congress Hall (Vilniaus Kongres Rmai)
Culture & events
13
14
Culture & events

Vartai B-3, Vilniaus 39 (Vilniaus Mokytoj Namai), tel. (+370) 5 212 29 49, www.galerijavartai.lt. Arguably the best and most influential contemporary gallery in the country. Find works in all media by the top Lithuanian artists working in their fields. Vartai also organises exhibitions by artists from abroad. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Znad Wilii C-3, Iganytojo 2/4, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 20, http://znadwiliiwilno.lt. A Polish art gallery displaying and selling paintings, books and the Polish-language newspaper of the same name. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. JA
Opera & Ballet
Vienuolio 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 27, www.opera.lt. A stunning construction opened in 1974 and offering the whole range of works. Worth a look inside even if you dont plan on attending anything. Q Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:30, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JA
Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Operos ir Baleto Teatras) H-3, A.
Uupio Meno Inkubatorius (see below)
Galleries
Actus Magnus C-3, Pilies 36-44, tel. (+370) 659
www.cac.lt. Vilnius very own monstrous carbuncle on the face of an old friend, this 1968 concrete masterpiece conceals the countrys leading temporary gallery for both Lithuanian and international contemporary art. Surplus to the 2,400 square metres of exhibition space, the Contemporary Arts Centre also organises conferences and lectures, features a superb reading room and hosts a rather good caf. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. JU TaDas F-3, Kstuio 51, tel. (+370) 685 555 25, www. gutauskas.lt. The weird and occasionally wonderful world of the Lithuanian artist Tadas Gutauskas, this gallery is given over entirely to his painting, sculpture and other media. Bordering on the nave and childlike, Gutauskas work is colourful to say the least and all of it is for sale. Q By appointment only. Uupio Meno Inkubatorius D-3, Uupio 2, tel. (+370) 611 226 75, www.umi.lt. A tumbledown house on the riverbank, brightly painted and with a few works in the garden, this is Uupis unofficial Ministry of Culture as well as a lively gallery space, workshop and the home of Uupio Koliaai, the only place in the city to buy official Uupis Republic memorabilia, souvenirs, local artwork, a copy of the Constitution and much more. Exhibitions include works from a wide range of contributors including established local artists, school children and the occasional American professor of mathematics. Follow the riverbank north from Uupio Kavin. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J
Contemporary Arts Centre (iuolaikinio Meno Centras) C-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45,
457 22, www.actusmagnus.com. The brainchild of two local women, this compact little gallery features two small spaces showcasing a range of contemporary work. Find it hidden away down a narrow alley. The entrance is on the right. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
Prospekto Galerija G-3, Gedimino 43, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 38, www.photography.lt. Owned and run by the Lithuanian Photographers Union, Prospekto Galerija is a hit and miss affair but really worth the effort just in case. Exhibitions range from the sublime to the awful, often let down partially by the artists themselves who submit badly presented work thats often lit with no thought to the work. Theres also a small shop where you can buy books and postcards featuring the work of many famous and obscure Lithuanian art, news and documentary photographers past and present. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija C-4, Didioji 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 17 02. Situated above a picture-framing shop that you need to enter in order to get to the gallery, this small and rather basic affair, also the property of the Lithuanian Photographers Union, puts on a number of shows throughout the year, some of which are well worth attending. Find it tucked away in a courtyard. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Photography
Arts Printing House (Men Spaustuv) D-2, iltadario 6, tel. (+370) 5 204 08 32, www.menuspaustuve.lt. Housed inside a former tsarist printing house this intriguing centre features two theatre halls, a place to collect and spread ideas and rehearsal rooms for various performers. J Domino Theatre (Domino Teatras) G-4, Savanori 7 (Forum Cinemas Vingis), tel. (+370) 5 263 95 70, www.dominoteatras.lt. The brainchild of a small collective of like-minded local thespians, this very Lithuanian affair puts on shows inside a cinema. Ll Puppet Theatre (Vilniaus Teatras Ll) C-4, Arkli 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 86 78, www.teatraslele. lt. This inspired puppet theatre for children of all ages has been charming audiences in Vilnius since the company was founded way back in 1958. Q Box office open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. J
(+370) 5 262 97 71, www.teatras.lt. Pretty much what it says it is, the Lithuanian National Drama Theatre promotes theatre from home and abroad and stages it in two venues inside the same building. Look for the three muses guarding the main entrance. Q Box office open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. J
Theatres
Lithuanian National Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Dramos Teatras) B-2, Gedimino 4, tel.
Culture & events

Ballet & Opera
December 1 18:30 Opera Gala 7 19:00 Christmas Gala Concert 31 19:00 Gala Concert December 3 18:30 9 18:30 17 18:30 28 18:30 30 18:30 January 14 18:30 16 18:00 18 18:30 21 18:30 27 18:30 28 18:30 30 12:00 February 1 12:00 3 18:30 11 18:30 17 18:30 24 18:30 26 18:30 March 2 18:30 3 18:30 18 18:30 19 18:30 20 18:30 25 18:30 26 18:30 27 18:00
15
Concert
Opera
LElisir dAmore G. Donizetti Rigoletto G. Verdi La Juive J. F. Halevy La Forza Del Destino G. Verdi La Traviata G. Verdi Madam Butterfly G. Puccini Madam Butterfly G. Puccini Madam Butterfly G. Puccini La Juive J. F. Halevy Carmen G. Bizet Carmen G. Bizet The Tiny Lingonberry J. Tamulionis The Tiny Lingonberry J. Tamulionis Rigoletto G. Verdi La Juive J. F. Halevy La Traviata G. Verdi LElisir dAmore G. Donizetti Rigoletto G. Verdi Carmen G. Bizet Carmen G. Bizet Otello G. Verdi Otello G. Verdi Otello G. Verdi Le Nozze di Figaro W. A. Mozart Le Nozze di Figaro W. A. Mozart Le Nozze di Figaro W. A. Mozart
Dramos Teatras) H-4, J. Basanaviiaus 13, tel. (+370) 5 262 05 52, www.rusudrama.lt. The only professional theatre in the country staging works exclusively in the Russian language, this fine old building also boasts a half-decent caf and also hosts other events including part of the annual Vilnius Jazz Festival. QOpen 10:45 - 18:30, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Meno Fortas D-2, Bernardin 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 268 58 16, www.menofortas.lt. An Old Town theatre given over entirely to the visionary antics of the infamous Lithuanian theatrical director Eimuntas Nekroius. Works include everything from Shakespeare to original works. J
Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Rus
jaunimoteatras.lt. Founded in 1966 the National Youth Theatre stages work of all kinds from the classics to experimental to innovative reworkings of original stories. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. J www.okt.lt. Dedicated to modern theatre and modern interpretations of the classics. J
National Youth Theatre (Valstybinis Jaunimo Teatras) C-4, Arkli 5, tel. (+370) 5 261 61 26, www.
OKT/Vilnius City Theatre (OKT/Vilniaus Miesto Teatras) B-4, Amenos 8, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 99, Vilnius Old Town Theatre (Vilniaus Senamiesio
Teatras) A-5, Naugarduko 20, tel. (+370) 5 213 40 64, www.senamiescioteatras.lt. Founded during the final days of the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1989 the theatre specialises in recreating the public-spirited theatre of the 16th and 17th centuries.
69, www.vmt.lt. Only finding a permanent home in 2005, this interesting theatre company who stage a wide range of predominantly contemporary works are based inside a glorious building in the city centre. Q Open 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. J
Vilnius Small State Theatre (Valstybinis Vilniaus Maasis Teatras) A-1, Gedimino 22, tel. (+370) 5 249 98
Ballet & Opera continued

February 2 18:30 4 18:30 6 12:00 9 18:30 10 18:30 La Sylphide H. Lvenskjold Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky Cipollino K. Khachaturian La Bayadre L. A. Minkus Red Giselle P. Tchaikovsky, G. Bizet, A. Adam and A. Schnitke Coppelia L. Delibes Romeo and Juliet S. Prokofiev Anna Karenina R. Shchedrin Don Quixote L. A. Minkus Zorba the Greek M. Theodorakis Coppelia L. Delibes Doctor Ouchaches I. Morozov
Ballet
2 4 5 8 10 12 14 15 16
December 18:30 18:30 12:00 18:30 18:30 12:00 12:00 18:30 18:30 Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky Coppelia L. Delibes The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky Zorba the Greek M. Theodorakis Russian Hamlet L. van Beethoven and G. Mahler The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky The Sleeping Beauty P. Tchaikovsky Red Giselle P. Tchaikovsky, G. Bizet, A. Adam and A. Schnitke The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky
18 18:30 19 12:00 21 18:30 January 2 18:00 4 18:30 6 18:30 7 18:30 9 12:00 15 18:30 20 18:30 22 23 29
12 18:30 13 18:00 18 18:30 20 18:00 23 18:30 25 18:30 27 12:00 March 4 18:30 Zorba the Greek M. Theodorakis 5 18:30 Don Quixote L. A. Minkus 6 12:00 Cinderella S. Prokofiev
The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky Zorba the Greek M. Theodorakis Romeo and Juliet S. Prokofiev The Nutkracker P. Tchaikovsky Swan Lake P. Tchaikovsky The Sleeping Beauty P. Tchaikovsky Red Giselle P. Tchaikovsky, G. Bizet, 18:30 A. Adam and A. Schnitke Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs 12:00 B. Pawlowski 18:30 Giselle A. Adam
Operetta
December 11 18:30 22 18:30 January 5 18:30 8 18:30 February 5 18:30 19 18:30
Die Lustige Witwe F. Lehar Wiener Blut J. Strauss Die Lustige Witwe F. Lehar Wiener Blut J. Strauss Die Lustige Witwe F. Lehar Wiener Blut J. Strauss
Performances take place at the Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre (see p.14). More info at www.opera.lt
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where to stay
Vilnius provides a wide selection of accommodation options in all parts of the city. Prices remain lower than in Western Europe, sometimes considerably lower, meaning staying right in the centre is always an option. Booking a room in advance is recommended, especially so during the summer.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child-friendly F Fitness centre R LAN connection K Restaurant D Sauna I Fireplace A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking 6 Pet-friendly J Old town location C Swimming pool W Wifi
Relais & Chateaux Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, sales@stikliaihotel. lt, www.stikliaihotel.lt. Occupying a sumptuous building with Gothic and Baroque elements, the Stikliai is where millionaires have been taking themselves for more than two decades. Old fashioned in every sense of the term, the fully air-conditioned rooms come with such treats as satellite and cable television, internet, mini bars and Turkish baths in the best suites. Sauna, pool, conference facilities and an equally ostentatious restaurant can also be found here. It doesnt come much better than this. Q43 rooms (12 singles 148 - 200, 16 doubles 184 - 200, 8 suites 304, 7 apartments 440 - 1100). PTJHAR6UIFLKDXC hhhhh
Cream of the crop
Narutis C-3, Pilies 24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax

(+370) 5 262 28 82, info@narutis.com, www.narutis. com. Totally gorgeous in every conceivable way, room interiors include everything from original 16th-century frescoes and wooden beams to Jacuzzis in the suites. Decorated with the ultimate in style and panache, theres no need to roll off a list of everything in the rooms because theyve really got it all. Add to that a location to die for, impeccable service, a fine restaurant and a magical spa and, if you can afford it, youd be a nutter to stay anywhere else. Q50 rooms (9 singles 170, 23 doubles 210, 14 suites 260, 7 apartments 310 - 900). PTJHAR6UILKXCW hhhhh
Guceviiaus 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 74 61, fax (+370) 5 210 74 60, vilnius@klaipedahotel.lt, www.klaipedahotel.lt. It could be made of damp straw and the restaurant could serve nothing but cabbage and youd still probably book a room once you saw the view. Not that it is made of damp straw of course, and of course restaurants pretty good too. Expect free internet in the rooms, minibars and all mode cons, good mannered staff and two of the best restaurants in the city next door in fact. An absolute winner for both facilities and location. Q 81 rooms (19 singles 70 - 105, 57 doubles 70 - 115, 4 suites 90 - 135). PJHARULKW hhhh
Amb er ton Hotel (Klaipda) B-2, L. Stuokos-
Upmarket
Artis Centrum Hotels B-2, Liejyklos 11/23, tel.
Radisson Blu Astorija C-4, Didioji 35/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 10, fax (+370) 5 212 17 62, sales.vilnius@ radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. The name, building and location say it all, as indeed does the list of the great and the good who choose to stay here when in town. A beautiful collection of rooms and suites are on offer, some with spectacular views of Old Town. Top notch accommodation with all the trimmings, plus business facilities, swimming pool, express laundry, a French restaurant and a bar selling some of the freshest local beer in the city. Q 119 rooms (75 singles/doubles 116 - 173, 24 suites 154 - 213, 4 apartments 400 - 750). PTJHARUFK DXCW hhhhh
(+370) 5 255 33 55, fax (+370) 5 255 33 11, hotel@ramadavilnius.lt, www.ramadavilnius.lt. Delicious opulence meets high standards of modernity. As youd expect from a five-star hotel, the rooms are nothing short of spectacular, featuring classic antique designs mixed together with the latest technology such as flat screen televisions, DVD players and voicemail. Theres also a wellness centre, conference facilities and even an umbrella in every room. Q55 rooms (9 singles 110, 39 doubles 125, 5 suites 190, 2 apartments 210 - 290). PTJHAR6UIFLKDXW hhhhh
(+370) 5 266 03 66, fax (+370) 5 266 03 77, artis@ centrumhotels.com, www.centrumhotels.com. Perfectly located between Old Town and Gedimino, this large white birthday cake-looking hotel has been looking after a better class of guest for years. Surplus to the marvellous views from the upper front rooms are air-conditioning throughout, Pay TV, internet access and for the nervous, peepholes in all the doors. Good for healthy-minded visitors, the hotel also manages to pack in a gym and swimming pool. Q108 rooms (12 singles 342Lt, 77 doubles 376Lt, 4 suites 622Lt, 5 junior suites 552Lt). PTJHARUFLKDXCW hhhh
Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel.
Atrium C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 77, fax (+370) 5 210 77 70, hotel@atrium.lt, www.atrium.lt. One of the favourite choices of visiting big-wigs and other VIPs, Atrium blends together the antiquities of Old Town with the very best of hotel accommodation to a great effect. Complete with minibars, heated bathroom floors and everything else youd expect when handing over this much money in return for a bed for the night, extras include conference facilities, sauna, a cracking little Argentinean restaurant and arguably the best location in Vilnius. Q29 rooms (3 singles 207Lt, 16 doubles 242Lt, 4 suites 276Lt, 4 apartments 328Lt, 1 royal apartment 397Lt). PJHAULKDW hhhh Best Western Vilnius H-2, Konstitucijos 14, tel. (+370) 5 273 95 95, fax (+370) 5 273 95 00, office@ vilniushotel.eu, www.vilniushotel.eu. Located in the heart of the citys main business district just north of the river, the four-star Best Western Vilnius is accordingly geared towards business travellers although theres no reason why anybody else cant stay there either. A wealth of tastefully decorated rooms plus a gorgeous apartment with its own sauna are available, all coming with wireless internet, satellite television, minibars and other treats. A taxi to Old Town costs less than 10Lt. Q 114 rooms (97 singles/doubles from 52, 4 suites from 100, 1 apartment from 200). PHA6UFK DXCW hhhh vilnius.inyourpocket.com
More hotels online vilnius.inyourpocket.com

where to stay
Star spangled banter
This guide uses the star system as defined by the Lithuanian Department of Tourism, in which stars are awarded for amenities offered, and dont necessarily reflect the quality of those amenities or the standard of service provided.
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Conti B-5, Raugyklos 7/2, tel. (+370) 5 251 41 11, fax (+370) 5 251 41 00, info@contihotel.lt, www.contihotel. lt. A good choice of singles, doubles, business class rooms, suites and apartments inside a well located hotel boasting a splendid jumble of old and new. Rooms come with the absolute minimum of internet connections, satellite television and minibars with add-ons including such opulence as a Jacuzzi in the luxury room and apartments. The lobby cafs a nice place for quiet drink, plus the upper floors provide some fabulous views of the city. Q88 rooms (17 singles 160 - 220Lt, 68 doubles 180 - 300Lt, 1 suite 695Lt, 2 apartments 950Lt). PJHARUFLKDXW hhhh Dvaras B-1, Tilto 3-1, tel. (+370) 5 210 73 70, fax
(+370) 5 261 87 83, hotel@dvaras.lt, www.dvaras.lt. Celebrating the former manor house status of the building its located in, Dvaras is a small hotel with grand ideas, noticeable in everything from the dcor to the price. Just eight rooms, from singles to luxury suites, are on offer, all given an old world treatment and all coming with lifes little luxuries. Theres a couple of fancy restaurants as well, all of it packaged together a two-minute walk from the Cathedral. Q8 rooms (3 singles 242Lt, 3 doubles 291Lt, 2 suites 417 - 452Lt). PJHARLKW hhhh
Grotthuss B-4, Ligonins 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22, fax (+370) 5 266 03 23, info@grotthusshotel.com, www.grotthusshotel.com. This self-proclaimed aristocratic boutique hotel in a quiet Old Town street contains 20 rooms and suites complete with Italian furniture, original art on the walls, wireless internet, minibars and satellite television. Favoured by well-heeled visitors who like the personal touch, the hotel also features an in-house gourmet restaurant and state of the art business facilities. Q20 rooms (5 singles 440Lt, 3 suites 790 - 860Lt, 12 superior doubles 550 - 620Lt). JHARLKXW hhhh Holiday Inn H-3, eimyniki 1, tel. (+370) 5 210 30
00, fax (+370) 5 210 30 01, holiday-inn@ibc.lt, www. holidayinnvilnius.lt. Hugely popular with visiting Americans who like assurance of something theyve slept in before, this world classics Vilnius incarnation is located just north of the river close to the business district. Swish and decidedly modern, the rooms all have that typical Holiday Inn feel, plus theres an excellent little bar at street level complete with complimentary press where its possible to spend an entire evening watching the world go by and drinking the night away on your companys expense account. A taxi ride to Old Town is about 15Lt during the day. Q134 rooms (119 doubles 140 - 170, 1 apartment 280, 14 executive suites 190 - 220). PHARUFLKDXW hhhh
Mabre Residence D-3, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212
Europa Royale Vilnius C-5, Auros Vart 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 07 70, fax (+370) 5 261 20 00, vilnius@ europaroyale.com, www.groupeuropa.com. The evergrowing Europa chains flagship Vilnius hotel continues to offer high standards of service in an admirable Old Town location thats hard to beat. The choice of individual rooms and suites is impressive, with even the most basic featuring mini bars, free wireless internet, air-conditioning and satellite television. Also find meeting rooms, international press and the fabulous Medininkai restaurant. One of the better places to stay in town if you can afford it. Q 39 rooms (2 singles 70 - 80, 24 doubles 80 - 90, 9 suites 95 - 105, 4 apartments 149 229). PTJHAR6ULKW hhhh
20 87/(+370) 5 212 21 95, fax (+370) 5 212 22 40, mabre@mabre.lt, www.mabre.lt. Found inside a fabulous former monastery, some of it dating back as far as the 17th century, this swanky hotel can be found on the border of Old Town and Uupis inside a lovely quiet courtyard. Geared towards all types of traveller with a healthy bank account, rooms veer from more than adequate singles to the wonderful (and surprisingly affordable) presidential suite. Surplus to the rooms are all manner of treats, from the recommended sauna and small pool to the in-house steak restaurant. Q40 rooms (3 singles 408Lt, 27 doubles 516 - 576Lt, 8 suites 696Lt, 2 apartments 936 - 992Lt). PJHAR6ULK DXCW hhhh
Neringa A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 88, fax (+370) 5 212 22 99, book@neringahotel.com, www. neringahotel.com. No longer trading under the Scandic banner, the superb Neringa hotel has lost none of its business acumen, continuing its role as one of the city centres major business-class hotels. The Scandinavian-styled rooms come in both standard and superior classes, offering good value whilst still managing to provide everything the modern business traveller requires. Extras include a selection of international newspapers and magazines, a small pool and the fabulous Neringa restaurant complete with original Soviet frescoes dating from 1959. Q60 rooms (22 singles 58 - 83, 34 doubles 64 - 90, 4 apartments 87 - 115). PJHAR6ULKDXW hhhh Novotel Vilnius B-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 5 266
62 00, fax (+370) 5 266 62 01, h5209@accor.com, www.novotel.com. The pointlessly controversial Novotel building (have you seen the revolting monuments in the square opposite?) resides in a space once inhabited by an ugly patch of grass. We rest our case. A fine hotel indeed, and, if you get the right room, it also happens to be a fine hotel with a rather spectacular view. Find everything youd expect from the French hotel chain at hand, plus a pleasant bar with outdoor seating on one of the citys busiest streets during the summer. Q 159 rooms (143 singles/doubles 81 - 156, 13 suites 101 - 176, 3 apartments 126 - 254). PTJHA6UFKDXW hhhh
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where to stay
Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva H-3, Konstitucijos 20, tel. (+370) 5 272 62 72, fax (+370) 5 272 62 70, info. lietuva.vilnius@radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu. com/lietuvahotel-vilnius. Now trading under the Radisson banner, the citys flagship 80s Soviet hotel received an enormous renovation several years ago and now boasts the best of two worlds. Located on the north bank of the Neris in the heart of the main business district, this 22-floor beauty is quality business class accommodation indeed. The rooms are bright and fresh, theres a vast conference capacity space, the in-house restaurant is very good indeed and the bar on the top should be on everybodys list of places to visit regardless of whether theyre staying in the building or not. Brilliant. Q 291 rooms (79 - 150). POTHARU FLKDXW hhhh
fax (+370) 5 272 43 55, info@hotelsarunas.lt, www. hotelsarunas.lt. A good value business class hotel close to the centre of things and just north of the citys emerging business district, complete with all of the necessary add-ons for todays demanding traveller such as satellite television, minibar and air conditioning. Everything is spotlessly clean, and the numerous perks include good conference facilities, sauna, fitness centre and a super restaurant-bar good for personal dining or group hire. For the price, this is by far one of the best hotels in its category. WiFi is free. Q 53 rooms (43 - 90). PHAR6UFLKDW hhhh
arnas I-3, Raitinink 4, tel. (+370) 5 272 38 88,
Algirdas City Hotels G-5, Algirdo 24, tel. (+370) 5 232 66 50, fax (+370) 5 232 66 54, info@algirdashotel.lt, www.algirdashotel.lt. Located inside a grand-looking building close to the action and tantalisingly near to a clutch of superb Chinese restaurants and a 24-hour supermarket, the Algirdas boasts everything necessary for a comfortable stay. The well appointed rooms all come with en suite facilities, wireless internet and a choice of extras according to price including refrigerators and kettles in the deluxe rooms. The in-house restaurant also churns out a menu of better than average food. Q 42 rooms (7 singles from 37, 33 doubles from 43, 2 suites from 81). PJHAULKXW hhh Apia B-3, v. Ignoto 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 34 26, fax (+370) 5 212 36 18, apia@apia.lt, www.apia.lt. A small, family-run hotel in a wonderful location in the heart of Old Town close to several good bars and restaurants, all rooms include free internet access and satellite television plus theres guarded parking and a friendly staff to help with whatever you need. Located inside a collection of fabulously restored 17th century buildings, news filtering back from previous guests suggests this one is definitely worth further investigation. Q12 rooms (7 doubles 169 - 217Lt, 2 triples 189 - 285Lt, 3 suites 237 - 333Lt). JAR6LKXW hhh Centro Kubas - Angel C-3, Stikli 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 60, fax (+370) 5 266 08 63, hotel@centrokubas. lt, www.hotel.centrokubas.lt. Angels, windmills, farming implements and an altogether rustic feel inside another favourite Vilnius hotel. Small enough for the personal touch to still shine through yet not too small to cram plenty of useful gadgets in the rooms. Hidden away down a wiggly Old Town street a few metres from the historic centres main thoroughfare, it may not be the cheapest option around but if youre planning on visiting regularly they do offer a good discount scheme. Q 14 rooms (singles from 52, doubles from 57, triples from 79, suites 59 - 69, apartments from 79). PJHAR6UILXW hhh
Shakespeare Boutique Hotel D-2, Bernardin 8/8, tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85, fax (+370) 5 266 58 86, info@ shakespeare.lt, www.shakespeare.lt. To book a room, or not to book a room, that is the question. Dickens, Joyce, Shakespeare of course and Tolstoy all have rooms named after them in this literary-themed hotel in one of the quietest and nicest streets in Old Town. Surplus to the excellent facilities in the rooms, guests all get a free present on arrival, plus theres a rather good restaurant and a refreshingly peaceful and recommended bar to boot. Q31 rooms (8 singles 360Lt, 13 doubles 560 - 600Lt, 8 suites 640 - 680Lt, 2 apartments 720 - 760Lt). PJHAR6LKXW hhhh
AAA Mano Liza B-4, Ligonins 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 22 25, fax (+370) 5 212 25 08, hotel@aaa.lt, www. hotelinvilnius.lt. A small, family-run hotel in a quiet Old Town backstreet, this place has been garnering constantly good opinions seemingly forever. And for good reason. With a boutique hotel feel, local art on the walls and the now almost standard inclusion thats free wireless internet are a personal touch lacking in many similar places and, for those who stumbled in at dawn, a much talked about all-day breakfast. Q8 rooms (1 single 47, 2 doubles 64, 4 suites 81, 1 apartment 93). JA6KW hhh Alexa B/C-5, Pylimo 53/2, tel. (+370) 5 219 17 80,
fax (+370) 5 278 40 95, reservations@hotelalexa.eu, www.hotelalexa.eu. The quintessential Lithuanian mixed bag accommodation option, by all accounts the people who work here are a charming bunch and the rooms are all perfectly fine for the price, even if one of two of them are a very strange shape. Close to the bus and train stations in a slightly lugubrious part of town, pitfalls include wireless internet you have to pay for and a lack of places to eat in the immediate area. Q 33 rooms (22 singles/doubles 100 - 130Lt, 4 triples 170Lt, 3 suites 250Lt, 2 quads 220Lt). JA6ULKW hhh
Mid-range
Sleep smarts
Most hotels now thankfully come with Englishspeaking staff. If in doubt, be sure to check before you book. I have a reservation A esu usisaks kambar More toilet paper please Noriau dar tualetinio popieriaus vilnius.inyourpocket.com
where to stay
Centrum Uniquestay Hotel G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 5 268 33 00, fax (+370) 5 213 27 60, hotel@ centrum.lt, www.uniquestay.com. Its a bit of a safari to reach reception but once you do finally manage to find it youll be glad you did. Refreshingly welcoming, the hotel, perched on top of the hill not too far from Old Town, is geared towards the business traveller but that doesnt mean you have to wear a suit and tie to stay here. The rooms, which famously boast a PC in every one, feature classic business hotel blue carpets, en suite bathrooms, satellite television and minibars. A swimming pool is also available, plus there are further business facilities and the added bonus of a bowling alley across the street. Q100 rooms (38 singles 49 - 63, 57 doubles 69, 5 suites 87). HAR6ULKDXCW hhh
06, fax (+370) 5 210 73 07, hotel@citygate.lt, www. citygate.lt. Close to the Dawn Gate, just outside Old Town and looking not unlike part of the set from Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, this lovely little hotel affords a healthy space between itself and the chaos of Friday night whilst still being just across the road from the sights. The rooms are decent, all coming with free wireless, plus theres three conference halls to contemplate for prospective visiting business travellers. Q 29 rooms (2 singles 195 - 250Lt, 17 doubles 240 - 330Lt, 4 triples 300 - 450Lt, 6 suites 250 - 380Lt). PJHAUILKXW hhh
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Martialis K-1, Bistryios 13, tel. (+370) 5 210 48
00, fax (+370) 5 234 02 93, info@martialis.lt, www. martialis.lt. Although not right in the centre of town, this simple yet modern hotel provides clean, comfortable rooms with satellite television, telephones and, in case you need a little help relaxing, a qualified masseur on call. Q114 rooms (12 singles 29, 96 doubles 34, 6 suites 51). PTHA6ULKXW hhh
City Gate C-5, Bazilijon 3, tel. (+370) 5 210 73
Rinno A-4, Vingri 25, tel. (+370) 5 262 28 28, fax (+370) 5 262 59 29, info@rinno.lt, www.rinno.lt. Just west of Old Town in a small, quiet street, Rinno is a goodlooking three-star hotel in an admirable location for an affordable price. The rooms come in several categories from the good value standards through to luxury rooms complete with a large bath and minibar. All rooms feature free wireless internet, although you should check first to make sure you get a room close to the wireless box to make sure the signal is strong enough. All in all a decent place to stay in an admirable location that wont break the bank. Q17 rooms (14 singles 35 - 49, 14 doubles 41 - 59, 3 suites 55 - 75). JHAR6LW hhh
Domus Maria C-5, Auros Vart 12, tel. (+370) 5 264 48 80, fax (+370) 5 264 48 78, domusmaria@ vilnensis.lt, www.domusmaria.lt. Excellent value Old Town accommodation inside a 17th century former Carmelite monastery, find 39 well appointed rooms including singles, doubles, triples, quads and luxury, some with splendid views and all with televisions, internet connections and en suite bathroom facilities. Theres conference facilities available for those who need them plus an in-house caf where meals can be ordered throughout the day. Q 39 rooms (8 singles 179Lt, 21 doubles 249Lt, 5 triples 279Lt, 2 quads 299Lt, 3 suites 250 - 300Lt). JHARUK hhh Europa City Vilnius G-3, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5 251 44 77, fax (+370) 5 251 44 76, vilnius@europacity. lt, www.europacity.lt. The perfect business class hotel, featuring comfortable rooms with all the conveniences from satellite television and minibar to top security card keys and internet connections. Add-ons include a fitness centre to keep in trim whilst youre working abroad, conference facilities and a white tablecloth restaurant. Q 128 rooms (90 singles/ doubles 42 - 59, 20 business class rooms 59 - 69, 10 de luxe rooms 74 - 84, 4 suites 99). PHAR6U FLKDXW hhh Hotel Tilto B-1/C-2, Tilto 8/3, tel. (+370) 5 210 00 21, fax (+370) 5 210 00 20, info@hoteltilto. com, www.hoteltilto.com. If it were any more fresh and homely it would be steaming like your mums buns. If it were any more tidy it would be an OCD ward. If it was any cheaper wed move in and live there and if the staff were any more friendly wed invite them to move in and live with us. This is a superbly refreshing hotel that is centrally located both in the town and in the price spectrum. Rooms range from dinky singles to mini apartments with kitchenettes. All have flat screen televisions with satellite, air conditioning and free WiFi. Q 34 rooms (6 singles 65 - 89, 15 doubles 75 - 105, 6 triples 90 - 144, 7 suites 85 - 150). PJA6UKDW hhh vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2010 - March 2011
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where to stay
Budget
50, fax (+370) 5 212 17 16, info@ambassador.lt, www. ambassador.lt. A magnificent throwback to an earlier age with a few 21st-century concessions, the Ambassador provides adequate lodging for a fine price with the added advantage of one of the best locations in town. The rooms are a little old-fashioned, but if youre in the mood for a bargain complete with pleasant staff, surprisingly good breakfast and a cavalcade of top sights on your doorstep, look no further. Q18 rooms (3 singles 100 - 240Lt, 11 doubles 115 - 280Lt, 2 triples 175 - 340Lt, 1 quad 235 - 400Lt, 1 suite 360Lt). JA6LX hh fax (+370) 5 210 27 07, hotel@ecotel.lt, www.ecotel. lt. Tucked away in a pleasant, quiet part of town just east of the citys emerging business district, Ecotel offers a choice of sleek and comfortable rooms, all coming with telephone and television, and including a range for non-smokers and those with allergy problems. With conference facilities and a whole host of other services (including rooms for tall guests) this might be the lofty option you were looking for. Q166 rooms (20 singles 199Lt, 140 doubles 229Lt, 6 triples 279Lt). HAR6ULXW hh
Ambassador B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 54
Guesthouses
Ameda F-3, Latvi 27, tel. (+370) 601 704 40, hotela-
meda@gmail.com, www.hotelameda.lt. Splendid value rooms and apartments in the lovely vrynas district with excellent public transport connections to the city centre or a 10-minute walk for the more energetic, all options come with at least satellite television and internet connections, with the recommended apartments also featuring such homely inclusions as fireplaces and fully equipped kitchens. Q 6 rooms (singles 25, doubles 25-30, apartments 4560). 6IW 5 212 38 50/(+370) 689 98 517, fax (+370) 5 212 35 59, vilnius@litinterp.lt, www.litinterp.lt. Close to the Cathedral and many of the major sights, this seasoned favourite has been providing quality, low cost accommodation to visitors for some two decades. Located inside a glorious historic building on one of Old Towns prettiest streets, facilities are basic but more than ample, with options for everybody from single guests to families. All rooms come with their own small kitchens plus theres a choice of en suite and shared bathroom facilities. Airport pick-up and help with car rental is also available. Q16 rooms (4 singles 70 - 90Lt, 9 doubles 120 - 140Lt, 2 triples 160 - 180Lt, 1 suite 160 220Lt). JA hh
Litinterp Guest House D-2, Bernardin 7-2, tel. (+370)
Ecotel Vilnius H-2, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 27 00,
Rdnink Vartai B-5, Rdnink 15/46, tel. (+370) 5 261 39 16, fax (+370) 5 212 05 07, rudninkai@cityhotels.lt, wwww.rudninkuvartai.lt. Situated at one of the citys former gates and just across the road from one of the few remaining sections of the old city wall, this reasonable budget option with plenty of exposed brickwork for that old world feeling offers both standard rooms and something a little bit more special. All rooms are en suite, plus theres free wireless internet throughout and at the time of writing an in-house Belgian restaurant. A splendid location right on the edge of Old Town and within easy walking distance of the bus and train stations. Q 17 rooms (5 singles from 33, 11 doubles from 33, 1 suite from 74). JHAR 6ILKXW hh
Paupio Namai I-4, Paupio 31a, tel. (+370) 5 264 31 13, fax (+370) 5 264 31 12, hotel@paupio.lt, www.hotel. paupio.lt. A big friendly manor house full of big friendly staff tucked away just off the street. Here you can get just about any combination you require, from a shared dormitory with external bathroom to self-contained apartments with en-suite facilities. The rooms are basic, clean, and fairly good value, and if you want you can take advantage of the fully equipped downstairs kitchen to keep costs down even further. Prices include a large breakfast. Q29 rooms (3 singles 60 - 80Lt, 14 doubles 70 - 120Lt, 9 triples 80 - 120Lt, 3 mix dorms 30 - 40Lt). AR6ILW
Bed & Breakfast

The Lithuanian definition of Bed & Breakfast conforms to the US model. Visitors from the UK should note that the two are as different as can be. Whereas in the United Kingdom B&B is more or less a small, usually family-run hotel, in Lithuania its more of an apartment kind of thing. Indeed, most Lithuanian B&s are just that. Here it can also mean any kind of hosted accommodation, whether being a room in a family house to something similar in a building run by professional staff. So, not really Bed & Breakfast as is so famous in Blighty. Brits beware! If in doubt, make sure to ask plenty of questions before booking something you never really wanted.
A Hostel B-6, v. Stepono 15, tel. (+370) 5 215 02 70, info@ahostel.lt, www.ahostel.lt. This well located hostel claims to provide accommodation along the lines of the Japanese pod system which on closer inspection appears to be nothing more than standard bunk beds. Extras include 15 minutes of free wireless internet, no curfew and hot showers around the clock. This is by far the best of their three addresses. Also at Sod 8, Sod 17. Q (34 - 140Lt). JALW Filaretai J-4, Filaret 17, tel. (+370) 5 215 46 27, fax (+370) 5 212 01 49, info@filaretaihostel.lt, www. filaretaihostel.lt. A back-to-basics hostel in the quirky Uupis district, accommodation comes in the usual dormitory style or, as is increasingly popular in hostels these days, with twin rooms for more privacy. Bathroom and kitchen facilities are shared, theres also laundry facilities, plus, unlike some, theres no annoying curfew. Q20 rooms (1 single 70Lt, 7 doubles 45 - 50Lt, 2 triples 35 - 40Lt, 10 dormitory rooms 31 - 34Lt). HARW Old Town Hostel C-5, Auros Var t 20-15, tel.
(+370) 5 262 53 57, fax (+370) 5 268 59 67, oldtownhostels@lha.lt, www.oldtownhostel.lt. A classic hostel in the old sense, meaning youre just as likely to find hard up Polish pensioners staying here as you are middle class English university students pretending to be poor.
Hostels
Sauls Namai J-3, Sauls 15/23, tel. (+370) 5 210 61 12/(+370) 656 294 25, hotel@saules-namai.com, www. saules-namai.com. To be found not too far from the centre in Antakalnis, five minutes from the nearest trolleybus stop, this place cant come recommended enough. Run by a nice family whove done the design and building work themselves, there are a number of interesting rooms with lots of stripped pine, exposed brickwork and quirky paintings. Theres a large kitchen where you can prepare your own food or have it made for you, a beautiful living room with a large fireplace and a quiet, leafy garden. Exceptional value and highly recommended. Q 9 rooms (singles 70 - 120Lt, doubles 140 - 200Lt, triples 160 - 220Lt). 6ILXW Vilnius In Your Pocket
where to stay
21
Ignore the fact that its not actually in Old Town and dont expect all-night parties with new-found Australian soul mates and youll be fine. Facilities are thin on the ground as one would expect, but for the price youd be an idiot to complain. Surplus to the army-style barracks are a few smaller rooms with en suite bathrooms and cooking facilities. Q 24 beds (28Lt/person). JRW
Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre (Vilniaus Jaunj Turist Centras) I-4, Polocko 7, tel. (+370) 5 261
35 76, fax (+370) 5 262 77 42, vjtc@delfi.lt, www. vjtc.lt. Set in a pastoral Uupis courtyard, the building is in a state of dilapidated charm characteristic of the area. Accommodation comes in a range of Spartan rooms that can sleep up to five, all with shared bathroom facilities. Other temptations include a communal kitchen and the chance to have breakfast, which is served outside during the summer, and made for you if youre feeling flush. Q 16 rooms (34Lt/night). R
09, nona_mackiene@yahoo.com, www.auksinistrikampis. lt. A large, fully equipped apartment with two bedrooms right in the heart of the Old Town action. Spacious and close to all the major sights, amenities include kitchen, cable television, wireless internet and parking facilities. See the website for more information. For those who like to know these things, Auksinis Trikampis translates as Golden Triangle. Q (90 - 290Lt/night). JW
Auksinis Trikampis C-3, Didioji 8, tel. (+370) 655 043
Short term rental
Eugenijus Apartments H-4, Vilniaus 25-1, tel. (+370)
Long term rental
699 424 56, eugenijp@takas.lt, www.vilniusapartments.lt. A choice of two decent, good value apartments in Old Town, located at street level for easy access and coming with everything required for a self-catering stay. Close to the main sights, the apartments are managed by a local husband and wife who run a small ceramics workshop and gallery in the city. Other services include car and bicycle rental, guided tours and translation services. Q 2 apartments (30 - 40/ night). JL
(+370) 5 266 08 40, fax (+370) 5 266 08 41, info@ barbacan.lt, www.barbacan.lt. A range of extremely high quality two- and three-room apartments in a quiet location and a lovely old building in Old Town. Facilities include underground parking, satellite television, internet, fully equipped kitchens and everything else necessary for a luxurious stay. Apartments are available to rent for both long and short stays. Q 2-room apartments 49 - 59/ night, 3-room apartments 59 - 69/night. Discounts available for longer stays. PTJA6ULXW
Barbacan Apartments D-4, Bokto 19/12, tel.
Rentida B-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 682 281 42, gvidas@rentida.lt, www.rentida.lt. Modern and classy apartments with all the trimmings on a fabulous Old Town street close to the oldest church in the city. Peaceful, and with some great views out of the windows, facilities include wireless internet and cable television. Q (150 - 250Lt/ night). TJW Skapo Apartments C-2, S. Skapo 8-17, tel. (+370) 610 038 54, info@skapoapartments.lt, www.skapoapartments.lt. Fine modern apartments, beautifully restored in a historical building close to Vilnius University, available for stays of any length and complete with all necessary amenities. Check the website for more information. Q (30 - 60/ night). JA6W
apartment-vilnius.com, www.apartment-vilnius.com. A choice of several apartments to suit every taste and budget, centrally located, and featuring everything necessary for a pleasant, self-catering stay. Satellite television in every apartment. See the website for more information. Q 8 apartments (120 - 200Lt/night). RW
Stikli Dvaras (Stikliai Apar tments) C-3, Dominikon 13, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 95, fax (+370) 5 212 38 70, apar tments@stikliaihotel.lt, w w w. stikliaiapartments.lt. Luxuriously furnished apartments inside a 16th- and 17th-century building available for both shor t- and long-term rental. Tastefully decorated and located in the same building as the Relais & Chateaux Stikliai h otel, apar tmen ts come full y equipped wi th lounge, kitchen, bathroom, one or two bedrooms plus satellite television and internet access. Theres underground parking too, plus guests/residents have access to the hotels fitness centre and swimming pool. Q 10 apartments (1,800 - 3,500/month). PTJHAR FLKDXC
Stasys Apartments Tel. (+370) 699 326 72, stasys@
More hotels online vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Vilnius Apartments C-3/4, Stikli 6-1, tel. (+370) 600 128 22, info@euapartments.lt, www.euapartments.lt. A wide range of one- and two-bedroom apartments for rent in Old Town for both short and long stays. Each apartment is very different in style and amenities, the latter including such useful attractions as free internet and washing machines. See the website for more information. Q 7 apartments (160 - 240Lt/night). J December 2010 - March 2011
22
restaurants
With a few amusing disasters and the occasional appalling exception, eating out in Vilnius is both excellent and relatively affordable for all. The citys restaurants and cafs literally cater to taste buds of every persuasion, offering everything from vast plates of potato-based local specialities to a surprisingly wide and generally palatable concoction of dishes from the kitchens of such far away places as India and Brazil. Service continues to be the main stumbling block even in the most aristocratic of eateries, and is easily the subject from which the majority of visitors gain the most displeasure. Although the bulk of restaurants worth visiting can be found within the city centre, the suburbs also offer a few treats, which we list when we feel that the plaudits is deserving. Tipping, if deserved, is up to the diner, with 10 per cent or a rounding up of the bill both being acceptable.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning E Live music T Child friendly G Non-smoking X Smoking place I Fireplace A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled W Wireless Internet access B Outside seating J Old town location
Prices listed in the Restaurants section of this guide refer to the average cost of a main course for one, excluding drinks.
Lithuanian
There are essentially two types of Lithuanian restaurant in Lithuania. The first and most obvious variety features pigtailed waitresses in national dress serving plates of potatoes and beetroot soup in an atmosphere reminiscent of an old barn. The second is less easy to pin down, and is perhaps best described as a restaurant or caf serving predominantly but not exclusively Lithuanian favourites in an atmosphere you wont find anywhere other than in Lithuania. Rather than insult the best intentions of the good restaurant owners of Vilnius and call the former of the two Folk restaurants, we choose to list both types of restaurant together.
Chillout A-3, Pylimo 8/2, tel. (+370) 684 742 99. A friendly, good value and entirely unpretentious establishment, the simple hot food on offer is recommended for those looking to eat well on a budget whilst the slightly late opening hours make it a possible place for a quiet evening drink or two over a glass of dark Raudonj Dobil beer made with red clover unless theyre showing a music concert on DVD. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 9Lt. TJS ili Kaimas B-4, Vokiei 8, tel. (+370) 5 231 25 36, www.cili.lt. Walt Disney meets The Waltons inside the countrys most popular folk restaurant chain. Resplendent accessories include small farmyard animals to keep the children entertained, agricultural implements on the walls and a surprisingly friendly and efficient bunch of waitresses scuttling about in traditional costumes. The menu of artery-clogging indigenous dishes is pretty good considering the rate at which its pumped out of the kitchen. An interesting point worth noting is that the last vegetable soup we had here had bits of chicken in it. Also at Gedimino 14. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. 18Lt. PTJAVSW Forto Dvaras C-2, Pilies 16, tel. (+370) 5 261 10 70,
www.fortas.eu. An increasingly large national franchise of folk restaurants pandering to people in danger of becoming increasingly large themselves, Forto Dvaras offers quality traditional Lithuanian food in a folksy interior without going completely over the top. The food is authentic, immensely filling if you choose the right dish, and for the location exceptionally good value for money, whilst the service is in general reasonably friendly and thoughtful. The summertime outdoor seating provides some of the best people-watching in the capital QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 20Lt. PTJASW www.grafzeppelin.lt. One of the citys more clever anomalies, bask in antiquity and fill yourself up with what they claim to be the largest cepelinai in the capital. The fusion theme also extends to the menu, which is made up classic German dishes of the type the aforementioned Lithuanian national dish is based on. A great place for a full blown, gut-busting meal and an equally enjoyable atmosphere if you catch them when theyre busy. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 17Lt. PJAS
Aula C-2, Pilies 11, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 73, www. aularestoranas.lt. A mixed Lithuanian and international menu of competent cooking brought to your table by staff whose lack of expertise is usually more than made up for by their friendliness. The last serving of potato pancakes eaten here went down a treat, plus theres the added advantage of a downstairs live music club. Summertime brings a small terrace and large courtyard to this classic Old Town favourite. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. 30Lt.PTJAUSW Berneli Ueiga A-1, Gedimino 19/1, tel. (+370) 663
NEW
602 32, www.berneliuuzeiga.lt. Its been a long time coming has this, which leaves us aghast as to how they managed to pull it off so badly. Operating in Kaunas since before anyone can remember, this usually superb small restaurant chain specialises in traditional country cooking in a traditional country setting. Their new Vilnius restaurant however hasnt really tried hard enough to capture the magic and has ended up with a modern-looking restaurant into which theyve thrown a few old bits and pieces. At least the food is good, plus theres the added bonus of an occasional open buffet for those who need their calories in a hurry. Find the entrance on Vienuolio just around the corner. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. PTJAUS
Graf Zeppelin C-4, Saviiaus 9, tel. (+370) 674 629 49,
Centro Baras B-2, Totori 5, tel. (+370) 686 411 24. Completely off the tourist radar, Centro Baras looks at first glance like every other mediocre canteen in the capital complete with ghastly dcor and a sleepy girl behind the bar. Perseverance furthers however, for not only is the sleepy girl amusing but the food, if not exactly gourmet, is cracking good value. Highly recommended are the vast slabs of hot cheese in breadcrumbs served with salad and French fries, whilst the bar stocks a refreshing range of excellent value beers from microbreweries around the country. Quite possibly the best bargain in town this winter. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00, Fri 10:30 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 15Lt. JS Vilnius In Your Pocket
79. Although dining here could never really be classed as memorable, the experience is always worth it. The menu lurches from taste bud to taste bud, offering a mind-boggling choice of food from local specialties to average pizza. You can smirk all you like, but well think youll find its them laughing all the way to the bank, not you. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 12Lt. PJAS
Keisti enklai B-3, Trak 13, tel. (+370) 5 261 07
restaurants
23
24
restaurants
14, www.rojausarka.lt. Situated close to the Dawn Gate, a visit to Rojaus Arka is like walking into somebodys home. The dcor has a nice Art Nouveau feel, boosted with the work of local artists on the walls whilst the menu of local dishes is both admirable and affordable. Suitable for both romantic dining as well as eating together in large groups, this unique restaurant really is quite like no other in the city. Note that they dont take credit cards, so top up your wallet before you visit. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. 25Lt. PJESW
Rojaus Arka D-5, M. Daukos 3, tel. (+370) 689 858
emaiiai B-4, Vokiei 24, tel. (+370) 5 261 65
73, www.zemaiciai.lt. A brilliant collection of medieval cellars designed for a slightly upmarket folk-themed dining experience, ignore the international dishes and plunge into the traditional food. Those eating in groups should consider one of the big mixed platters, which are good value and fun to share. Also worth trying is the fresh in-house beer, made in the old-fashioned unpasteurised fashion and a rare treat indeed. Also check out their fast weekday lunch if youre in a hurry. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. JAS
Argentinean
El Gaucho Sano C-3, Pilies 10, tel. (+370) 5 210 77 73,
the uninitiated, koldnai is the Lithuanian version of ravioli, pelmeni, pierogi etc., small pillows of dough encasing fillings including pork, potato and even fruit from time to time. Considering the nations obsession with its indigenous food its amazing there arent more places like this, but there you go. This relatively new venture is kitted out in a mildly country-cottage style and churns out barrels of the aforementioned nosh alongside a few other local specialities. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 11Lt. PTJSW
Koldnin C-4, Saviiaus 6, tel. (+370) 699 213 27. For
NEW
www.atrium.lt. Despite having something of a reputation as a steak restaurant, El Gaucho Sano is in actual fact far more capable than just churning out juicy slabs of beef. We confess that our last visit here saw us putting away a 300g steak, but thats probably because they cook some of the best steaks in town. The extensive Argentinean menu includes much more, including rare treats like Argentinean chorizo and some interesting desserts not found anywhere else in the country. Expensive? Well, this is a hotel restaurant after all. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 60Lt. PJASW
Asian
Lokys C-4, Stikli 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 90 46, www.lokys.
lt. One of Vilnius best known restaurants, Lokys (The Bear) opened its doors to rouble-paying customers way back in 1972 in the Gothic cellars of an Old Town building dating back to the late 15th century and has been serving so-called traditional hunters dishes amidst a slightly tongue-in-cheek backdrop ever since. The limited menu focuses on unusual dishes including quail, venison and even beaver, with a couple of vegetarian options to keep everybody happy. Live music happens from time to time, plus you can rent the entire place for the full blown medieval experience. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 40Lt. JAS
etuva), tel. (+370) 640 344 43, www.eateast.lt. A small selection of surprisingly good noodle and rice dishes served in a cardboard box plus sushi and a few non-alcoholic drinks. The spicy items are just right, although it looks like they use chilli sauce rather than real chilli as youd almost certainly get in an authentic version of this place. Service can be a bit slow, but if youre after good value, filling food, you could do an awful lot worse. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. 13Lt. AVSW
Eat East H-3, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Li-
Wall Street H-3, Lvovo 25, tel. (+370) 5 219 59 16, www.wallst.lt. Very good Mongolian barbecue in two sizes plus a range of set Asian meals in an industrial-chic ambience. Four televisions play CNN, theres board games to play and the loud music (the televisions are mute) is upbeat. To top it all, the large bar changes colour and they sell that rarity in Lithuania, Pepsi. An excellent choice if youre in the area. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PASW
Marceliuks Kltis I-2, Tuskuln 35, tel. (+370) 5 272 50 87. Fairytale waitresses deliver meals the size of your head from a menu of traditional Lithuanian dishes featuring more calories than there are stars in the universe. Located somewhat strangely in the middle of a large concrete housing estate, this barnlike restaurant is strewn with such archaic eye candy as wooden bicycles hung from the ceiling and a pink and green threshing machine by the front door. Gentlemen confronted with the strange machine in the toilet should know that it really is for weeing in. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. TAIES Vilnius In Your Pocket
Brazilian
Grill Brazil G/F-2, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), tel. (+370)
5 219 59 77, www.grillbrazil.lt. Predominantly but not exclusively a churrasco and espeto corrido restaurant, help yourself to the buffet and take a choice of meat off the skewers carried around by the waiters. You can eat as much as you like here, which is a mixed blessing because theres always something superb coming off a skewer meaning you might just burst. Dont let the location put you off. This is simply one of the best places to eat in town. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. 26Lt. PAW
restaurants
Bakeries
(+370) 686 310 23. Hats off to this gem, the brainchild of a local lady so enamoured by Italian bread and pastries she introduced them here. Whereas the supermarkets get the recipes right but skimp on the basic materials (the wrong flour, cheap fat etc.), Italika Kepykla uses only the best ingredients to make bread to knock your socks off. Most highly recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. JS
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Fast food
Italika Kepykla C -3, Dominikon 16, tel.
with Pizza Hut, which is owned by the same people, a change in management has also meant a change in quality at KFC. Where chicken once tasted of paper it now tastes of chicken. Magic. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas). QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. 12Lt. PTAUSW
KFC G-3/4, J. Jasinskio 14, tel. (+370) 5 203 12 22. As
Fine dining
Buffet express
Pronto H-2, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 5
248 71 00. In complete contrast to its modern surroundings, Pronto is all waterwheels and wooden fittings. Some of the best buffet food in the city can be found here including a limited salad bar plus hot metal trays full of ready-to-gobble food including potato pancakes, chicken, hefty meatballs and a choice of rice, potatoes, vegetables etc. Find it with the rest of Europas main restaurants up on the top floor. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 15Lt. AS
57, www.laprovence.lt. Specialising in Mediterranean cooking at its best, encounter tables full of well-heeled locals and foreigners tucking into a mouth-watering range of dishes including fish, grilled meat and a couple of vegetarian options. Despite its reputation as a rather expensive restaurant, not only is it worth the money here there are also a number of dishes that wont break the bank. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 60Lt. PTJAS
La Provence B-4, Vokiei 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 02
Naruio Restoranas C-2/3, Pilies 24 (Narutis hotel),
Central Asian
ingischanas (Genghis Khan) A-3, J. Basanaviiaus
8/1, tel. (+370) 619 128 16, www.restoranas.net. Chefs from Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan have all contributed their own dishes to Lithuanias only truly authentic Central Asian restaurant. Bursting with aromatic and spicy dishes youve probably never eaten before, the dcor may be a little on the kitsch side but then thats all part of the experience. Recommended for novelty value if not the food itself. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PJUES
tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, www.narutis.com. Lush burgundy and ginger fabrics and glorious 18th-century frescoes, white tablecloths and staff with impeccable style, thats what people have grown to expect in this top notch Old Town hotel restaurant. Theres plenty of imitators hereabouts, but in Naruio Restoranas you get the real thing, meaning great service and great food. The menu features an imaginative concoction of dishes from around the world, including one of the best kybyn (a Lithuanian Karaite speciality) in the country to a mouth-watering Chilean sea bass. Using fresh ingredients to create works of art of every plate, this one really is hard to beat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. 50Lt. PTJALSW
Didioji Kinija H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 5 263 63 63, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. One of a small chain of Chinese restaurants in town, all of them worthy of further culinary investigation, Didioji Kinijas location may not be exactly central but is certainly calling for a visit. As with the vast majority of Chinese food in Vilnius, this is the real thing, not the adulterated rubbish usually served up in places like the UK. The menu itself is massive, not unlike the actual dishes of which theres a good range to suit all, including vegetarians. The current business lunch served here, which can be eaten in-house or taken away, is ridiculously good value indeed. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTAVSW Pekinas H-4, Algirdo 28/15, tel. (+370) 5 215 16 20, www.kinuvirtuve.lt. The closest Chinese restaurant to the Chinese embassy is a small affair with plenty of obligatory lanterns, friendly staff and a television and CD player vying for attention in authentic Chinese fashion. The slightly pricey menu is extensive and generally excellent, with plate warmers on hand to keep the large portions piping hot as theyre slowly devoured. Amidst the more mainstream offerings of beef, pork, chicken and vegetable dishes are a few exotic treats including snails and even ostrich. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. PAUVS vilnius.inyourpocket.com December 2010 - March 2011
Chinese
26
restaurants
95 80, www.stikliaihotel.lt. A small but magnificent menu of wonderful dishes featuring such classic favourites as black truffles and a proper sorbet, all served from soup to nuts by impeccable staff in truly sumptuous surroundings. Whereas most hotel restaurants are best avoided, this one is more than an exception. Backpackers and stag parties might like to find somewhere else to eat. People with style who know a good thing when they see it and who like to impress might like to book a table. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:30. Sat 12:00 - 23:30. Closed Mon, Sun. 90Lt. PTJAUEW
Stikliai C-3, Gaono 7 (Stikliai Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 264
616 177 76, www.marchedeprovence.lt. Not open at the time of going to press, this new offering from the same people who brought several other wonderful restaurants to the city promises a Mediterranean-heavy daily menu of food made from the freshest of ingredients. Theres also going to be a shop where many of the ingredients can be bought, a culinary library and a cellar stacked full of decent wine. Watch this space for a full review next time.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PJAW
Marche de La Provence C-3, Pilies 27, tel. (+370)
NEW
French
balzac.lt. From the fun tables in the little back room to the slightly punky waitress to the fact that the place was heaving on a Monday night to the amusing music policy, everything during our last outing here was just right. The small menu also scored very well, with the red pepper soup and the steak being particularly exceptional. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Fri 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. 25Lt. PTJAS
Balzac C-4, Saviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 614 892 23, www.
Fun
Brasserie de Verres en Vers C-4, Didioji 35/2 (Radis-
son Blu Astorija Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 236 08 40, www. radissonblu.com/hotel-vilnius. As one would expect from the Radisson brand, their in-house Vilnius restaurant is pure top class. Tastefully decorated in cool browns, eat in a choice of two halls, one with a little privacy and the other with large windows looking out onto the street outside. The small but well-chosen menu features a cavalcade of classics with a predominantly French flavour. Recommended is the slow roasted rabbit with saut potatoes. The service is friendly and attentive, and the drinks menu, including a couple of good champagnes, is equally impressive. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. 50Lt. PJAUW
www.blusyne.lt. A long, thin affair thats both a restaurant and bar, the Flea Pit is just itching to be investigated. The food covers a wealth of tastes from Thai to Italian, the beer and wine menu puts most Old Town places to shame and the dcor is refreshingly different. The last outing here saw the demolition of a plate of Thai food that cant come recommended highly enough. Quirky without being over the top, theres also a splendid little garden out the back thats a delight in the summer and fun to huddle in and smoke oneself to death when its freezing outside. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 25Lt. PJASW
Blusyn C-4, Saviiaus 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 12,
Pauki Takas (Milky Way) Sausio 13-osios 10
(Television Tower), tel. (+370) 5 252 53 33. Revolving 160m above the ground, the Milk y Ways chef is unlikely to be headhunted soon, although coming here to eat is hardly the main reason to visit. If lifts and Soviet architects dont scare you youll simply love it up here. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Box office open 10:00 - 21:00. 28Lt. ASW
restaurants
Uupio Kavin D-3, Uupio 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 21 38, www.uzupiokavine.lt. A Vilnius institution often full of people who probably should be in institutions themselves, the breakaway Republic of Uupis daft political headquarters also doubles as one of Vilnius must-see places to stop and have something to eat and drink. The interior has a mild Republic of Uupis theme, helped along by a clientele of colourful locals, whilst if youre lucky enough to visit on a mild or even a sunny day, the riverside wooden terrace remains one of the top places to sit in the capital. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. 18Lt. JAISW
261 06 55. Life-size dummies in fluffy hats, friendly service, earthenware crockery and a menu including garlic-laden karcho/charo and knockout mutton sausages with sweet pickled tomatoes among a range of other classic Georgian dishes. Trivia buffs will be delighted to learn the restaurant is named after the classic 60s Soviet film Kidnapping, Caucasian Style, staring Aleksandr Demyanenko (1937-1999), whose likeness can be found in a mural painted on one of its walls. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 20Lt. PAUS
27
Kaukazo Belaisv A-2, Pamnkalnio 24, tel. (+370) 5
Fusion
528 03. What were they thinking? Not only does this rather naff restaurant not specialise in fusion food as they claim, but the sushi etc. that they do serve is far from worth the effort of pootling all the way down to this end of town to eat it. Sexy orange furniture and large-screen televisions showing mountain climbers isnt the way to win hearts in the restaurant war, as the owners will no doubt discover when they go out of business before long. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. 14Lt. PTAESW
Orgazmus Lounge G-3, Gedimino 39, tel. (+370) 657
Adria A-2, Islandijos 4, tel. (+370) 640 777 60. Although they offer a full international menu, our advice is head straight for the Georgian food in this upmarket Georgian sensation. Recommended are the karcho, khachapuri (find it on the appetisers menu but be warned even Mr. Creosote would find it hard to finish the final fourth slice) and an exceptional lump of hot, sweet baclava. The menu also includes a handful of Georgian red and white wines. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. 25Lt. TJAESW
Georgian
Bunte Gans C-5/6, Auros Vart 11, tel. (+370) 5 212 83 12, www.buntegans.lt. Now with a new local chef running the kitchen, Bunte Gans continues to churn out excellent German cuisine and other dishes in this Old Town favourite. The imaginative, good value food on offer includes schnitzels, curry wurst, bangers and mash, fresh fish and bread and the house special dish of goose with fried potatoes and a host of other vegetables. Theres live music during the weekends and an extensive range of drinks including the recommended German beers Warsteiner and Erdinger. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 20:00. 30Lt. TJAESW
German
Ice-cream
Soprano C-2, Pilies 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 60 42, www.
soprano.lt. Our last outing here involved entertaining a couple of under-sevens who demolished so much cake and ice cream they had to be hosed down before leaving. The treats on offer really are exceptionally good at any time of year. The ice-cream incidentally is made locally to a traditional Italian recipe. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PJASW
28
restaurants
Indian
Indian Bites H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 240 49
NEW
International
Bistro 18 C-3, Stikli 18, tel. (+370) 677 720 91,
27. This bizarre shopping centre affair offers tandoori, biryani, chicken tikka, lassi and even ginger beer from a counter complete with padadums and a passable naan bread. Not entirely authentic, the food is still exceptionally good, especially when considering you can eat a tray full of food that will leave you bulging at the sides for a mere 12Lt. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 12Lt. PASW
NEW
www.bistro18.lt. With three minimalist dining areas and a separate wine shop in the heart of Old Town, this Irish-tinted spectacle features friendly staff on hand to serve dishes from a mixed menu of international favourites with the occasional twist. Recommended are the mixed green salad and their homemade meatballs. The wine list comes with its own little range of edible extras. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat 17:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 22:30. 30Lt. PTJAUS
www.indianmaharaja.lt. Chander Shakhar once cooked at Sues (below), and is now risking life and limb with his own restaurant, recently opened in a good Old Town location. Still finding its feet and expanding its menu on an almost daily basis, some healthy competition in the Indian food department is exactly what Vilnius needs. The food itself is extremely good and the prices are among the best in the region. A very welcome addition indeed.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. 15Lt. PJAVSW
Indian Maharaja B-3, Trak 4, tel. (+370) 662 204 40,
Cozy C-3, Dominikon 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 37, www.cozy.lt. The sort of place where the staff turn up on bicycles and smother each other with kisses, Cozys been packing in the cream of the citys B-list celebs since 2004. Featuring arty black and white photography on the walls, the menu generally impresses with an affordable list of mildly pretentious delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. 25Lt. PJASW Dominikon Karema B-3, Dominikon 6, tel. (+370)
NEW
Sues Indian Raja B-2, Odmini 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 18 88, www.sues-lt.com. The best restaurant in Vilnius? Its Sues. Wing Commander Rajinder Chaudhary knows how to put on a good show and realises that the only way to make exemplary Indian food is to hand-pick your spices and your chefs in India. Many of the authentic dishes here are named after the diners who eat them, adding another nice to touch to, did we say it already..? The best restaurant in Vilnius. In the words of one satisfied diner, The results are outstanding, with the butter chicken worthy of a fan club of its own. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PJAVSW Vilnius In Your Pocket
600 019 77, www.priekatedros.lt. This new restaurant and beer hall has been tastefully decorated in a classic historic style and offers several different rooms for the ultimate in dining experiences. Surplus to the more familiar, meat-heavy dishes including a classic pork knuckle is a range of classic peasant foods including the must-try boiled pigs ears. Friendly and well turned-out staff are also on hand to serve a good choice of beers including the three magnificent brews made in the nearby Prie Katedros restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 22Lt. TJAUESW
restaurants
29
Esse G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 210 25 11, www. esse.lt. A bustling restaurant in the city centre with an emphasis on Italian and Lithuanian cuisine, well-trained staff ferry a cavalcade of good-looking dishes to a predominantly business clientle. Among the favourite fare on offer are the mussels in a wine and cream sauce plus a highly recommended changing business lunch menu served during the working week between 11:00 and 16:00. Theres also over 100 wines to choose from plus, for those who cant stand to be away from the office, that Vilnius rarity, free wireless internet. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 25Lt. PJAESW Ida Basar C-5, Subaiaus 3, tel. (+370) 5 262 84 84,
www.idabasar.lt. Located inside a lovely 16th-century building behind the hotel of the same name, Ida Basars reputation for high class food in glorious surroundings is well founded. Now combining a small cuisine-related museum with
the actual dining spaces, the kitchen continues to pump out some of the best nosh in the capital. A good option if trying to impress. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 30Lt. TJAUES
Jalta F-3, Vykinto 17a, tel. (+370) 699 779 25. More than worth popping over the river for, Jaltas status as one of Vilnius most original restaurants is now firmly in the bag. A beguiling mess of junk shop kitsch and designer sophistication, the menu of wholefood recipes is worthy if not exactly mouth-watering whilst during the summer the secluded leafy garden is a real winner. Socially aware, the restaurant supports the efforts of local, small-scale farmers and is a popular meeting place for the citys creative, minor league politicos. DJs also do their bit for the community here from time to time. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Tue 11:00 - 15:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. 12Lt. TAIEW
30
restaurants
76. Located inside a bizarre-looking, late-19th-century neo-Gothic ersatz castle just over the river, this peculiar little treat serves a wide range of international dishes including lots of salads, plenty of meat and fish dishes and a few vegetarian choices thrown in for good measure. Best of all, summertime hails the opening of their lovely little courtyard, the scene of the occasional burst of live music from time to time. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 21Lt. ASW
Kalvarij 1 H-3, Kalvarij 1, tel. (+370) 671 786
and helpful. Right next to the parks funfair and the places to rent bicycles and peddle cars, its especially recommended for adults with children. Theres even a small hotel upstairs for those who cant bear to leave the place. QOpen 11:00 22:00. Closed Tue, Wed. 12Lt. S
Laktingala E-4, M. K. iurlionio 102 (Vingio Parkas), tel. (+370) 687 742 37, www.lakstingala.lt. Found in the middle of Vingio Parkas, catch it before it gets too cold to sit outside on the large and often lively terrace. The food may not be heading for an award ceremony but is better than edible, and the staff genuinely make an effort to be friendly
La Pergola B-4, Ligonins 7, tel. (+370) 5 266 03 22. White tablecloth gourmet dining in sumptuous surroundings inside the Grotthuss hotel, or, during the warmer months, on their lovely terrace just off a quiet street in the heart of Old Town. The menu of international dishes includes plenty of options to keep everybody happy, and is accompanied by an equally admirable wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 60Lt. PTJAULW Livin Perknkiemio 5, tel. (+370) 685 513 00. Literally
NEW
Pizza
ili Pica A-1, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 90
71, www.cili.lt. The bible-proportioned menu includes a frightening array of decent pizzas as well as a small yet well-chosen collection of pasta and meat dishes to boot. Those who are generally offended by the possibility of smothering ones meal in tomato ketchup really should try it. To top it all (so to speak), the service is usually very good indeed. Also at Didioji 5. QOpen 07:30 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 06:00. 15Lt. PTJAVSW
the last building on the left as you drive towards Ukmerg, this lacklustre attempt at a sophisticated restaurant was empty during research with the exception of what appeared to be a schoolboy who we found simultaneously running the bar and trying to grow a moustache. Its existence is clearly down to the number of offices in the area, although we doubt this alone is going to keep them in business. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 22:00. 18Lt. PAUS
Medininkai C-5, Auros Vart 8, tel. (+370) 600 864
Pomodoro A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 22, www.pomodoro.lt. After numerous visits to several Pomodoro restaurants its still almost impossible to fault them. For the price, the pizza and pasta are up there with the best, whilst the steak continues to amaze and impress. Service is attentive, salads lower their standard during the winter like they do anywhere in the north, and the early morning pancakes continue to be a fine way to start the day. Also at P. Lukio 32, Gotauto 40c, Ozo 14. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 15Lt. PTJAUSW Uupio Picerija D-3, Paupio 3, tel. (+370) 5 215 36
66. Parked in a street just around the corner from the Uupis Angel, this tip-top pizza joint is either bustling and busy or dead as a door nail. Whatever state its found in, the pizza they serve is decent enough if not exactly gourmet. Eschew the other meals and stick to the house food and youll be just fine. Service is of course amusing. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 15Lt.JAUSW
91, www.medininkai.lt. One of Vilnius oldest and most well respected restaurants serves up sumptuous international food in a white tablecloth atmosphere in a choice of several halls as well as outside in a lovely 16th-century courtyard during the summer. The menu features all manner of good things, from fresh seafood to pasta to some fine grilled meat, all overseen by an award-winning chef who maintains high standards throughout. Part of the classy Europa Royale hotel, diners can also take advantage of the adjoining hotel bar before or after their meal. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. JASW
www.restoranasneringa.lt. A former nomenklatura favourite and still pulling in the cream of the citys slightly older sophisticates, this positively mammoth restaurant features two dining halls separated by a bar with a fountain in it. Of particular interest are the original 1959 murals, protected by the State along with much of the rest of the interior. The international food on offer is good, honest fare, although not likely to win any awards. The desserts are particularly fine, making this marvellous institution a good place to visit regardless of whether youre after a full meal or not. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. 25Lt. PTJAUESW
Neringa H-4, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 261 40 58,
restaurants
55, www.priekatedros.lt. One of the most popular places on Gedimino for both food and drink, Prie Katedros is located in an atmospheric cellar close to the Cathedral and other sights. The menu features a wealth of local and international dishes plus theres the added bonus of an in-house brewery knocking out the now famed three beers, a light, dark and a honey-flavoured semi-dark that stands out as one of the best beers in the capital. For those who dont know which to choose, a special selection of all three beers in small portions can be sampled to find out which one suits you best. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 22Lt. PJAESW
31
Prie Katedros B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 605 775
Riverside H-3, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 21, www.riverside.lt. Consistently great food and service courtesy of this exemplary in-house hotel restaurant, the well-chosen international menu may not be the cheapest in the city but is worth the trip over the river to sample from it. As well as serving one of the best buffet breakfasts in town, theres also an excellent buffet lunch and plenty of dishes from the menu until late. The outdoor summer terrace, opposite the increasingly popular area by the river, is a fine place to visit, even if only for a drink. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. 40Lt. PTAULS Sonnets D-2, Bernardin 8/8 (Shakespeare hotel), tel.
(+370) 5 266 58 85, www.shakespeare.lt. That rare treat a hotel restaurant worth eating in, the Shakespeares in-house nosh-pot excels where others barely get off the ground. Sumptuous and elegant, everything here is polished to near perfection. A diverse menu tempts diners with all manner of delicacies from classic Lithuanian dishes to ostrich with chestnuts. All overseen by friendly and efficient staff, the price tag may be a little heavy but is worth every penny. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. 30Lt. PTJALSW
Tores I-4, Uupio 40, tel. (+370) 655 326 26, www. tores.lt. Theyve got lovely distressed furniture inside, with a jumble of chairs and tables ready for the demolishing of a small choice of Lithuanian and international dishes including that rarity cauliflower cheese, all washed down with a range of beers and wines from around the world. What really sets this place apart though is the terrace, one of, if not the best in the city with a delightful view of the city spread out below. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 22Lt. TA6ES
Two rosy-cheeked waitresses literally sprint up and down the superb beer garden, taking orders and delivering plates of food from a limited menu of mostly meat-based dishes and a slightly overpriced vegetable bake (that needs something like rice to go with it if youre not looking for a snack). The altibariai was a bit warm, although it did come with a small portion of crispy roasted potatoes. If youve got the time and you dont mind the fact that they might be understaffed when you visit, go ahead and eat. Alternatively, theres draught Guinness, a refrigerator full of posh beer and shelves full of wine to choose from. Car and bicycle parking is around the back. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 01:00. 15Lt. AESW www.zoesbargrill.com. Although by no means extravagant, you get what you pay for, which here is quality food prepared in an open kitchen and served by waiting staff genuinely happy to see you. The dcor has an upmarket-diner feel to it, plus there are a couple of excellent beers to compliment the food. Consistently great, which is a very rare thing indeed in this city. Recommended. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 11:30 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. 25Lt. PTJAUS
Veranda F-2, Kstuio 39, tel. (+370) 5 273 01 07.
Zoes Bar & Grill B-2, Odmini 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 33 31,
32
restaurants
Japanese
Labuki C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 88.
With suave surroundings and a choice of rooms including a main area with large windows overlooking the Town Hall, Labuki offers a wealth of dishes to please all tastes and budgets. The good-looking sushi sets are well priced and flavoured, the tempura is terrific and the solitary noodle dish with beef is absolutely out of this world. The Korean chef also makes a mean soup and the classic Oriental desserts are very good indeed. There are fresh flowers on the tables, the service is friendly and theres also a good value business lunch menu. People who prefer to eat with a knife and fork are strongly advised to ask for them when ordering their food. Also at Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 240 55 55. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 30Lt. PJASW
618 521 12, www.miyako.lt. Not unlike the kind of restaurant youd find on any street corner in any Japanese city, Miyako (it means capital city incidentally) provides the full Japanese experience without shoving it down your throat. What you should shove down your throat are selections from the sushi and sashimi menus, all prepared in the front bar area and eaten either at the bar or in one of the two adjoining dining rooms. Look for the little wooden boats in the window on the top floor. QOpen 11:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. 23Lt. PTASW 76, www.osaka.lt. Recommended quality Japanese classics including nigiri sushi, hoso maki, sashimi, pungent spicy soups, noodles and more inside a wee little restaurant between Old Town and Gedimino. Ideal for meals out, Osaka also deliver and provide good value takeaway lunch sets. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. PJAVS
Miyako H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370)
Osaka A-2, Vilniaus 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 71
Italian
Da Antonio I B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370) 5 262 01 09,
www.antonio.lt. An old favourite with several embassies in town, Da Antonio is everything an Italian restaurant should be. Classy without any unnecessary frills and with superb people-watching windows, Italian chef Manfredo Molteni oversees a menu including fresh fish soup, grilled beef fillet and a wealth of great pasta dishes. Theres a good choice of Italian wines to compliment plus some truly gut-busting desserts for those who can cram a little more in. Their Amberton Hotel address (see below) also offers the classic Sunday brunch experience. Also at L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus 1 (Amberton Hotel). QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 55Lt. PTJAS
Sushi Express G-3, J. Jasinskio 16a, tel. (+370)
Fiorentino C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 09
25, www.fiorentino.lt. A good choice of Tuscan dishes with accompanying wine, all overseen by an Italian from the region with the kind of passion sadly almost never seen in the city. Inside its all plain white interiors and specials chalked on the blackboard. Tuscany is of course considered the birthplace of the Renaissance, so its rather fitting that the restaurant should be here. Splendid work. Brilliant stuff. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00, Fri 11:30 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 30Lt. JAW
699 693 43, www.sushiexpress.lt. Not exactly central and catering predominantly to the suits who earn their crusts in this small business district, Sushi Express can be found tacked on the corner of a modern building and churning out the same good food as their original and highly recommended outlet in Kaunas. One of the better sushi joints in the city, summertime also sees a limited selection of outdoor seating for those who prefer to eat to a cacophony of passing vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 16Lt. SW
Sushi House B-3, Vilniaus 45, tel. (+370) 682 282
22, www.sushihouse.lt. Average sushi best eaten elsewhere such as in the park nearby. Be warned, the wasabi and ginger portions are tiny. Ask for double to avoid disappointment. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. 12.50Lt. JAVSW
NEW
Fireplaces
Few and far between, during the winter theyre well worth sniffing out. Find them inside Marceliuks Kltis (p.24), Uupio Kavin (p.30), Jalta (p.29), Vapiano (p.33) and Plieno Pauktis (p.37).
(+370) 670 870 87, www.sushiinn.lt. The avocado and the tuna maki are both very good indeed, whist their self-styled Japoniki koldnai, a deep-fried version of ravioli with a vegetable filling, would be perfect if it came with a more interesting sauce than mayonnaise. One of the better sushi options in town and worth checking out if youre in the area. 12Lt. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. VS
Sushi Inn H-3, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), tel.
restaurants
International fast-casual restaurant concept now in Vilnius! Best venue in town!
33
PIZZAS, PASTAS
starting from
SALADS
starting from
NEW
12.90 LTL 7.90 LTL
WWW.VAPIANO.LT
VILNIUS TALLINN STOCKHOLM LONDON VIENNA AMSTERDAM BERLIN HAMBURG COLOGNE BUDAPEST
212 38 94. When we eventually found this place (its hidden away inside a beauty salon) there was little to write home about beyond a small triangle of floor space sporting several empty tables and a large screen showing annoyingly loud MTV. Most bizarre indeed. Q Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. 20Lt. PTJASW
Piaz zetta Italia C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 5
Kibin Inn A-2, Vilniaus 21, tel. (+370) 676 444 22,
www.kibininn.lt. Kibin, kybyn, kibinai, however you choose to spell it, one of the most popular dishes in the eastern half of the country comes from the Lithuanian Karaite (or Karaim), a mysterious Turkish sect embracing elements of Judaism and Islam whove been resident in the area for 600 years and whos national dish is a Cornish pasty-type affair usually filled with mutton or pork and dripping with fat. Delicious indeed. This strangely decorated Lithuanian celebration of the food is currently the best place in town to try them. QOpen 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. 5Lt. PTJAUVS
Lithuanian Karaite
St. Valentino B-3, Vilniaus 47/18, tel. (+370) 5 231 41 98. An unbeatable location and years of good service mark St. Valentino out as one of Vilnius most beloved and respected restaurants by the citys business community and wealthy citizens who continue to favour the place over any other. Whilst wolfing down a plate of their excellent Italian food, expect to rub shoulders with anyone from foreign millionaires to MPs to trophy wives. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. 35Lt. PTJAUSW Vapiano H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 5
NEW
238 34 89, www.vapiano.lt. Redolent of a millionaires greenhouse, its all stone, marble and oak with a particular emphasis on flora and natural light in here, the perfect environment in fact for a welcome addition to quality Italian food in the city. Featuring open kitchens making fresh pasta, salads and pizza, the food comes in ample portions and is a cut above the rest. A super new place to eat in an area crying out for this kind of quality. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 18Lt. PTAUISW
Tres Mexicanos C-2, Tilto 2, tel. (+370) 674 186 00, www.tresmexicanos.lt. Unlike its predecessor, the capitals second venture into the world of Mexican cuisine scores magnificently. The food is cheap like Mexican food should be, authentic, filling and recommended, whilst the service is brisk and friendly. A small bright yellow interior adds to the charm, and overall its a winner. Run by three Mexicans who give the place its name, excellent reports about the place keep coming in. Those used to a lack of spice in Eastern European versions of spicy food should be warned that theyre not afraid of sending your mouth into raptures of glorious pain here. If it says its hot, its hot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon, Sun 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. 19Lt. JAS
Mexican
Juice bars
Boost Juice G/F-2, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama). That
NEW
Haso A-4, Trak 5. The best kebabs in Vilnius, choose from a picture menu of several different ones carved from a skewer with a choice of sauces. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 06:00. 10Lt. PJA
Kebabs
Sura H-1, Ozo 18 (Ozas), tel. (+370) 5 277 70 00, www. sura.lt. A brilliantly thrown-together design of bare concrete, flashing lights and a few more conservative elements surround diners whilst they feast on a menu made up of mostly decent sushi plus a few classic Korean dishes. The pulkogi was a bit lacking in vegetables but the beef was good and the sauce was exceptional. They even serve it with short grain rice for that final authentic touch. The giggling (home-grown) waitresses are fun too, although why they chose to put it in a shopping centre in the middle of nowhere with a rather depressing view is hard to fathom. Definitely worth the bother anyway. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. 22Lt. PAS vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Korean
very rare Lithuanian dual experience of quality and friendliness is what awaits thirsty, vitamin-deficient visitors to the Panorama shopping centre. Boost Juice knocks out exotic mixes of fruit juices blended on the spot at bargain prices. Better still, get a complimentary, round Boost Juice card and get every eleventh drink for free. Magic for hangovers and other self-inflicted diseases of the mind and body. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. SW
Sulius B-2, Totori 15, tel. (+370) 603 531 02. Instantly recognisable if youve ever been to Brighton or Berlin, this handsome-looking little juice bar that bears more than a passing resemblance to a 1970s hippys kitchen also sells a wealth of other things from biodegradable washing powder to samosas. The juice in question, which could do with being a little colder, is concocted by flustered girls with nose rings to a soundtrack courtesy of Bob Marley. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 16:00. PJSW December 2010 - March 2011
34
restaurants
Salad
Opened in August 2004 and still going strong, the recommended Mano Guru offers a mind-boggling array of substantial salads plus desserts and soft drinks in something of a boutique setting. Popular particularly with women watching their weight, other people are encouraged to visit not least because of the idea behind the place. Begun on the initiative of former mayor Artras Zuokas, over half of the staff working here are recovering drug addicts involved in whats probably the most enlightened project in the city, and one thats well worth supporting. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. 15Lt. TJASW
Mano Guru B-2, Vilniaus 22/1, tel. (+370) 5 212 01 26.
rather than the usual opposite. Aiming to introduce tapas to the local population among other things, this Spanish-themed restaurant-bar on two floors provides a bit of everything, from a first-floor caf complete with open kitchen serving dishes including Basque fish soup to grilled meat to a labyrinth of rooms downstairs for long evenings of eating and drinking. Service is friendly, the dcor has some extraordinary touches downstairs and the wine list is impressive. QOpen 11:00 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. 16Lt. JAU
Steak
Markus ir Ko C-3, M. Antokolskio 11, tel. (+370) 5 262
In Day G-4, Gotauto 40a, tel. (+370) 5 249 66 94. Good value submarines, coffee, wine and a few other bits and pieces plus a bookshelf, wallpaper and stripy cushions. A so-so place for a snack and a chat when its not too busy. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 15Lt. ASW Lunch Lab B-3, Trak 16, tel. (+370) 5 240 44 27, www. lunchlab.lt. Far from being a bustling realm of experimentation, this tiny place is little more than a sandwich shop. Worse still, the alternative image it attempts to portray is let down by a number of factors, not least by the serious lack of vegetarian options on the menu. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 10 - 21. Closed Sun. 7Lt. JSW
Sandwiches
31 85. Serving various bits of cow to those who can afford it for as long as many care to remember, Markus ir Ko is an institution that fails to go away. Once famed for cooking the best steak in the capital, this slightly casual yet definitely upscale restaurant has long since been eclipsed by others but still knocks out by almost everybodys account a damn fine steak. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 45Lt. TJAVESW Hotel), tel. (+370) 5 212 13 89, www.mabre.lt. The last time we ate here we were very disappointed, a situation unchanged by the latest steak eaten on the premises. Parting with 90Lt for a T-bone and small bottle of mineral water should guarantee quality, but in the case of Hazienda this was far from the case. The medium steak was positively raw inside, the accompanying potatoes were garnished with what we assume came from a supermarket packet and the sauce tasted like gravy with a bit of chilli sauce thrown in. Shame, because theyre nice people here. They just need to find a chef who can cook. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. 60Lt. PTJAEW
Steak House Hazienda D-3, Maironio 13 (Mabre
California Tapas & Wine C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel. (+370) 652 655 51. Growing from strength to strength, its a breath of fresh air to see a restaurant in Lithuania improve over time Vilnius In Your Pocket
Spanish
restaurants
Cafs
www.cafedeparis.lt. Part of the French Cultural Centre, Caf de Paris functions as one of Vilnius main hubs of artistic life, a little like what used to happen in the French capital at the beginning of the 20th century only more often than not without the accompanying talent. Long and thin, with a small section to sit outside when the weathers good, the celebrated crpes help relieve the possibility of a trip to an expensive local restaurant whilst the limited range of beer, wine and spirits is now boosted with the inevitable cocktail menu. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. JAESW
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Caf de Paris C-3, Didioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 261 10 21,
! G-4, Algirdo 5 - 2, tel. (+370) 5 260 33 44, www. borsch.lt. Specialising in classic Ukrainian food and drink, this slightly folksy-styled eatery offers a pleasantly upmarket experience with the added bonus of friendly staff and a bill at the end of the meal that wont leave you on bread and water for the rest of the month. For the uninitiated, Algirdo boasts a clutch of highly commendable places to eat and drink, and should be explored at the next possible opportunity. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. 16Lt. ASW
Ukrainian
Coffee Inn A-2, Vilniaus 17, tel. (+370) 655 777 63. One of the hippest addresses in town, find two floors of tables occupied by brightly coloured students taking advantage of the free wireless internet and updating their Facebook pages on their iPhones. The coffee, served Starbucks style, is excellent, as are the accompanying cakes, sandwiches, wraps, muffins, juices etc. Also at Trak 7, Pilies 3, Gedimino 9. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PJSW Cozy Europa H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa),
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75. A magnificent time warp, Balti Drambliai (White Elephants) confirms every vegetarian stereotype known to humankind. Frequented primarily by Vilnius dreadlocked community and awash with the sounds of the Orient, find a labyrinth of vaulted enclaves and, if youre lucky, a waitress. Whatever ones opinion of the substances people choose to put in their cigarettes, for hardcore vegetarians this is arguably the safest bet in the metropolis. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 15Lt. PJAEW
Balti Drambliai B-3, Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 08
Vegetarian
tel. (+370) 5 203 42 55. In the words of Brian Eno, Go forwards sideways, good advice it seems for the management at Cozy whove taken over one of the cafs inside the Europa shopping centre. In an effort to encourage the local business community to gather here for after-work food and drink, Cozy Europa tempt their new clients with a small menu of international food plus a bar heaving with booze. A possible new networking opportunity if youre in the area during the week at around 18:00. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PTASW 90. This recommended little spot offers the full Uupis caf experience from the experimental decoration to a passing trade of local characters. Worthwhile for express liquid refreshment or something not too fancy from the menu, as the name suggests the location is next to the marvellous and quirky angel statue. Other sights of note are the collection of translated versions of the Uupis Constitution on the wall on the other side of Paupio just to the left. QOpen 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. PJAUSW
Raw Raw - alio Maisto Restoranas C-2, S. Skapo
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10, tel. (+370) 699 520 22, www.rawraw.lt. This place specialises in raw food, meaning its a salad bar, doesnt it? Minimalist and quirky, we stumbled on it the other evening thinking wed walked onto the set of a sci-fi film, complete with a serious-looking gentleman fiddling with an iPad. Top marks for trying something new. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. 15Lt. TJASW
Prie Angelo D-3, Uupio 9/2, tel. (+370) 5 215 37
combined bakery, fast food outlet and caf, the bakery is average and the other two rooms are nothing special either. A good place to head when its freezing outside and the bus stop across the road fails to send you what you want. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. PTJSW 96 53, www.svieziakava.lt. One of the countrys top coffee house chains, vieia Kavas Gedimino 9 outlet is housed inside a bookshop no less, making for the perfect environment to drink quality espresso and the like amidst a wealth of literature. Keep an eye out for their other branches around the city centre. Also at Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), Ozo 18 (Ozas), Savanori 22, J. Balikonio 3. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJAUSW
Sotas B-1, Vilniaus 9/2, tel. (+370) 608 072 74. A
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vieia Kava B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 260
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The Lithuanian capitals disparate nightlife options run the breadth of all things imaginable for any taste and budget, from quiet cafs full of serious-looking men huddled over a game of chess to steamy underground caverns dedicated to the time-honoured pursuit of getting ordinarily level-headed businessmen so horribly drunk that they willingly empty the contents of their bank account inside a strippers knickers. Now that the citys cocktail-drinking crowd have been given their own places to imbibe and to be seen imbibing it in, Vilnius nightlife entrepreneurs are turning their attention to the subject of wine, namely with the opening of a trendy wine bar on what feels like every street corner. The best are of course listed here. Clubs remain almost exclusively mainstream, whilst the citys gay and lesbian scene is almost as far underground as a Soviet nuclear test site. With the exception of perhaps Pyongyang, no capital city in the world is without its more sinister side, and that includes Vilnius. Violence and alcohol occasionally combust into fisticuffs, and with wages to make a sweatshop worker stay in bed its no surprise to learn that wallets, mobile phones and even the occasional camera disappear from ineptly attended tables, pockets and bags. Finally, face control is ever on the rise. If yours doesnt fit, forget it. Have fun!
Bix C-4, Etmon 6, tel. (+370) 5 262 77 91, www.bix. lt. Started by the once legendary rock band from iauliai of the same name, the scruffy bar on two floors that is Bix is fairly tame during the week but can get busy and full of testosterone-filled men in leather jackets during the weekend. The two pool tables upstairs are a disaster, but quite good fun after a few beers. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. JAEW Brandy Lounge A-4, Trak 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 32 51. Without wishing to come across as too pedantic it would be reasonable to expect when entering a brandy lounge to be greeted by two things, namely a lounge and some brandy. Ok, they sell brandy, but then so do most places and the choice to date here is hardly what youd call extensive. And the lounge? Well, theyve got things to sit on, which at a stretch could be described as lounge-like. But lets not get pernickety. Its actually quite a nice little place in a super location, which when we dropped by for a drink late on a Monday evening was fairly busy and rather good fun. Brandy is much aplomb during the winter, and its the winter that these people are aiming for. QOpen 08:30 - 02:00, Thu 08:30 - 04:00, Fri 08:30 - 05:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JAW Fortas H-4, Algirdo 17, tel. (+370) 652 011 38, www. fortas.eu. Despite a slightly crappy beer collection, Fortas can do no wrong. Perched up on top of the hill above Old Town, this always busy spot plays host to everyone from shadylooking Russian-speakers without any hair to immaculately turned out Japanese tourists. Perfect for an outdoor summertime drink despite the appalling view and equally rewarding indoors, it would be unfair to not mention the food, which is consistently marvellous. Top banana. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAW Globe D-2, Bernardin 8/8 (Shakespeare Boutique Hotel),
tel. (+370) 5 266 58 85. An unexpected gem hidden away upstairs in the Shakespeare hotel, Globe has been providing good alcohol and the chance of something decent to eat courtesy of friendly staff for years. Somewhat resembling a slightly stuffy gentlemens club, the complete absence of excitement here makes it the ideal spot for a relaxed business drink or any other kind of discreet encounter for that matter. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 24:00.PTJAESW
Bars
Amatinink Ueiga C-4, Didioji 19/2, tel. (+370)

687 223 66. An Old Town institution popular with locals and tourists alike, the service here has always been pretty bad even at the best of times although thats never stopped the punters from coming. The nondescript interior fills during the colder part of the year with a motley collection of inebriated locals whilst the outdoor terrace continues to be one of the most popular drinking spots in the city. If you can handle the wait, the food is edible and, best of all, famously keeps arriving on your table until sunrise. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00, Fri 10:00 - 07:00, Sat 11:00 - 07:00, Sun 11:00 - 05:00. PJAW
Yet another bar reaping the benefits of EU investment in Lithuanian microbreweries, Vilnius now claims bars for drinking traditional ale in for students, poets, misfits and, now, the new rich. As well as being a bar, this smallish Old Town cellar also doubles as a shop. When we dropped by to check its pulse it was in dire need of defibrillation. Why certain people are taking their underwear off and waving it over their heads about this average derivative watering hole is anyones guess. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. JAW
Bambalyn C-3, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 5 240 56 70.
Banzai B-3, v. Ignoto 14, tel. (+370) 652 321 11. Featuring Oriental dcor with a faded, almost colonial feel to it, Banzai functions as a popular venue for working weekday lunch as well as a bar worth investigating during the evenings. Service can be friendly, and on a good night the slightly edgy atmosphere has been known to outshine much of the local competition. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. JASW Bermudai H-3, Ups 6 (Baltasis Tiltas), tel. (+370)
655 702 62, www.bermudaiclub.lt. Bermudai specialises in beer from a range of small breweries across the country which they sell for peanuts. They also serve a handful of other beers including the magnificent Duvel. Theres live music on Fridays and Saturdays and a young, studenty crowd. Find it through a small door and down a flight of stairs in the bowels of the bridge. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 15:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. ESW
Gorky C-3, Pilies 34, tel. (+370) 652 180 35. From the same management stable as the nearby Caf de Paris and Jalta in vrynas, Gorky is housed inside a building that once held the legendary albeit rather naff Gero Viskio Baras. Slowly working out what its for, as expected the place has become a magnet for well-educated revolutionaries on large disposable incomes. At ground floor level is an average caf-bar also serving a few international dishes whilst the spiral staircase leads to a basement good for sitting out nuclear wars in as well as its intended purpose to listen to jazz, reggae and soul music as well as the occasional live band, events that are getting more and more popular as the weeks pass by. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJAESW Gringo A-3, Klaipdos 3, tel. (+370) 650 969 25. A former internet caf and failed sandwich shop, the summer of 2010 saw the opening of this brave venture designed along the lines of an East Berlin bar complete with wacky pictures on the walls and free reading material on every table. Aimed squarely at Vilnius gregarious drinkers, the barmaids levity is lost on most clients and to date the bar remains neither particularly good fun or busy. The Leffe Blonde is a nice touch and the Guinness on tap is better than many around town. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. JAW vilnius.inyourpocket.com
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Klinika A-1, Gedimino 27 (Fluxus Ministerija), tel. (+370) 640 445 54. A jumble-sale bar in an alternative ar ts centre complete with plastic glasses of bargain-pri ce b e er, dogs, bi cycl es an d th e possibility of a better tomorrow. Q Open 16:00 - 24:00. JEW
51, www.misterija.lt. Featuring a choice of rooms on two floors decorated to tempt a wide range of drinkers, the good people at (M)isterija have put some thought into their concept, and the dividends have been good. Popular with a regular crowd of friendly hedonists, the drinks menu is fairly impressive and the food is more than edible. Extras at press time include board games, a regular pub quiz which can be translated into English for non-native-speakers whod like to get involved, themed weekend parties and a policy that encourages people to dance on the bar if they feel so inclined. Q Open 11:00 04:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 18:00 - 06:00, Sun 18:00 - 04:00. PJASW
(M)isterija B-2/3, Totori 18, tel. (+370) 5 212 50
Plieno Pauktis H-4, K. Kalinausko 11b, tel. (+370) 5 231 21 81. Discreet during the winter, this is the perfect place for a fireside tryst. Full of staff from the American embassy during the week, the place is given back to the locals at the weekend and is well worth the treck up the hill. Recommended is their cheese-covered kepta duona, a real treat with a couple of ice-cold beers. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. AI
pogobaras.lt. You can say what you like about rock fans but you cant deny the fact that the ones who opened Pogo should be hugged and generally smothered in affection. Risking their necks transforming an empty Chinese restaurant into a bar with a live music venue at a time when the economy was falling to pieces, our heroes have been rewarded with a loyal clientele of lads in leather and a damn fine place to drink if this is your sort of thing. The beer is stupidly cheap and the food is surprisingly good. Recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri 18:00 - 06:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. PJAEW
Pogo A-2, Vilniaus 12, tel. (+370) 604 195 67, www.
969 25. When asked to explain themselves, the barman of this brand new bar told us everything we needed to know was contained in the Billy Joel song after which the place is named. If taken literally, expect an old man sitting next to you making love to his tonic and gin. If taken with a pinch of salt, the idea is a friendly place where everyone gathers for a good time. Further to the obvious aspirations are an upright piano and the prospect of live music, snacks and draught Guinness and Hoegaarden. Q Open 16:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. PJAW
Piano Man A-2, Islandijos 1/31, tel. (+370) 650
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46. Constantly reinventing itself as a bar of some kind and even occasionally as a Chinese restaurant, the latest incarnation to set up shop at this address is a dark and moody beer hall of small proportion complete with Union Jack hanging above the bar and a motley collection of locals huddled in front of the beer pumps. The kind of place Lithuania is famous for, this is where to come for bizarre evenings of far too much cheap alcohol and extraordinary conversations of the instantly forgettable variety. A good bar crawl option for early in the evening. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 04:00. JAW
Portobello C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 16
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has done nothing to dent SkyBars armour. Still churning out scores of excellent cocktails and still providing not one but two extraordinary views, a trip to Vilnius without a trip to SkyBar isnt really a trip at all. Rewarding at any time of the evening, the best times to drop by are as the sun is setting or late at the weekend when the place takes on a distinctively clubby feel. The aforementioned views, which get snapped up quickly by visitors who head to the tables by the windows immediately on entering, include not only the best panorama of Old Town there is but, less popular but an extraordinary contrast all the same, a view to the vast concrete sleeping districts that house the majority of the citys residents. Highly recommended. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:30. PAULXW
MC C-4, Vokiei 2, tel. (+370) 5 261 70 97. Round the back of the Contemporary Arts Centre and equipped with staff and clientele to suit, although its a bit cramped and frequently morose indoors during the colder part of the year the arrival of the citys clement weather brings with it a concrete terrace that can get extremely lively during the evenings. An interesting option for a drink, the possibility of meeting some of the citys more imaginative inhabitants and the chance to play chess if you so desire. Theres food too, which some people cant get enough of. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. PJASW
66 68, www.prieparlamento.lt. Vilnius veterans will no doubt remember the name Prie Parlamento, known during the glory days when the city still had an expat community simply as PP After several unimpressive years as some kind of Czech . restaurant, Prie Parlamento is back, this time in the guise of a combined wine and beer bar. Pretty much unchanged, the two-floor bar (beer at ground level, wine upstairs) was never much to talk about but it did at least have the added bonus of possessing a buzz. The new PP appears to be just another local establishment, featuring a limited menu of beer and wine plus a few dishes almost certainly best left in the saucepans if the complimentary beer snacks are anything to go by. The Thursday night pub quiz is good fun if you speak Lithuanian. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PJASW
Prie Parlamento G-3, Gedimino 46, tel. (+370) 5 249
tel. (+370) 614 000 99, www.hotelsarunas.lt. Inside the arnas hotel, this highly recommended sports bar for sports nuts comes with one HD screen for every five punters and is arguably the best place in town at the moment for major sporting events, which in Lithuania generally means basketball although they do show other stuff as well. Give them a call for information on upcoming events. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat 14:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00. AUW
Stars & Legends I-3, Raitinink 4 (arnas Hotel),
Sports bars
Clubs
Due to the universal law stating that its impossible to be in all places at all times, the club reviews in this guide are written to provide a general overview of whats to be expected if you visit them. As any serious clubber already knows, nights change with alarming regularity, good promoters come and go and expected crowds fail to turn up. The pitifully few brave clubs in Vilnius who dare to break away from the mainstream all have at least a well-maintained website if not a Facebook page or two to compliment, of which Vilnius In Your Pocket at least always provides the former to help give readers even more information. Finally, the good news about clubbing in Vilnius is that entrance prices are relatively low and the city is remarkably small. If you do happen to stumble on a non-event, relocating to another club is both quick and affordable.
Savas Kampas C-4, Vokiei 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 32 03, www.savaskampas.lt. Hahahahahahaha. Ha. Despite the years of pleasure Savas Kampas has brought the world, it seems only fitting to snigger at a rebranding policy that believes the best way to get a dwindling number of bums back on its seats requires the current jiggery pokery fad of calling yourself a wine bar. Maybe a spot of redecorating would help. Better still, why not attempt training your waitresses? No. The summer will no doubt keep the place alive thanks to the marvellous outdoor seating, but who knows what the cold claws of winter will do to this place. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. JAW SkyBar H-3, Konstitucijos 20 (Radisson Blu Hotel
Lietuva, 22nd floor), tel. (+370) 5 231 48 23, www. sky-bar.lt. The recent re-branding of the hotel on whose 22nd floor this highly recommended place to get tipsy in is
Brodvjus B-4, Msini 4, tel. (+370) 652 577 90, www.brodvejus.lt. Celebrated for the slightly creepy fact that this is arguably the top spot in town for visiting foreigners of a questionable age to leer at teenage girls, downstairs is primarily for dancing, spilling drinks and getting stuck in conversations with local bores, the quieter upstairs bar is always worth a go, especially if you want to sit down. Still hugely popular, live acts include everything from DJs whod find it hard to get a gig at a wedding to the occasional decent band. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Wed 20:00 - 04:00, Thu 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 06:00. Entrance 5-30Lt. PJAE vilnius.inyourpocket.com
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Gravity G-3, J. Jasinskio 16, tel. (+370) 685 703 50, www.gravity.lt. As any self-respecting club promoter in these parts will tell you, Gravity is run by Muppets. In the capable hands of former foreign managers, this minimally decorated bomb shelter earned a reputation abroad as a cut above the rest. Nowadays it lacks direction and generally puts on safe acts who thrive on imitation rather than providing what real clubbers want these days.QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance 10-20Lt. A Ministerija G-3, Gedimino 46, tel. (+370) 5 249 66 68,
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Olialia G-3, Gynj 14, tel. (+370) 650 836 67, www.
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olialiaclub.com. The quintessentially Eastern European Olialia group are dedicated to the worship of dolly birds and consider Pamela Anderson a sort of goddess. With all sorts of business ventures under their belts, Olialia have ventured into the world of clubbing with the recent take-over of the former Pacha club. If you struggle to count higher than your IQ and have trouble tying your shoelaces, Olialia might be just what youre looking for. QOpen 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance 10-40Lt. PAEX
www.prieparlamento.lt. Not content with stoking the fires of the distant past and breathing new life in an old bar alone, the entire building of this once infamous establishment is now back in business as it was at the height of its success before EU accession. Ministerija was at the time the place for the citys once large male expat community to come and find themselves a squealing teenage bride, although its anyones guess as to whats going to happen there now. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Entrance free. PJAE
Neringa Caf-Bar H-4, Gedimino 23, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 79, www.cafe-bar.lt. A retro-style cellar club functioning as a nice place for food during the day and something different during the weekend. Thursday nights are currently celebrated with live jazz, whilst Friday and Saturday evenings attract a crowd of mostly middle-aged, manbag-wielding gentlemen and their peroxide-bleached wives splashing out on pickled herring and cheap champagne and reliving their youth on the little dance floor. Priceless. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 21:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. Entrance (Fri, Sat from 22:00) 10Lt. JAUW
Pabo Latino A-4, Trak 3/2, tel. (+370) 5 262 10 45, www.pabolatino.lt. Featuring three halls and two bars of sheer class, Pabo Latino is an oasis of Latin culture in a country where human warmth is far from overwhelming. A tough but fair door policy keeps the low life out, meaning what you get inside is a well behaved bunch of good-looking people out for a fun evening in pleasant albeit sometimes frenetic surroundings. The music is both live and courtesy of DJs, the cocktail menu is massive and if you dont know how to dance Latin style, they even put on lessons for anyone willing to give it a go. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance 15-30Lt. PJAEB Salento DiscoPub C-4, Didioji 28, tel. (+370) 676 820
15, www.salentodiscopub.com. Nights of foam in which the ladies get all wet and lathery, cheap offers on cocktails, deckchairs, large television screens and a predominantly young crowd are the things to expect inside the citys most recent club offering at the time of going to press. The brainchild of Italian Piero, the idea is to bring an Italian and Spanish pub-disco feel to the Lithuanian capital. Each night promises a different theme, with music focusing on pop and old favourites. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Entrance free - 20Lt. PJAE
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Satta B-2, Vilniaus, www.satta.lt. Whereas even the most obscure Eastern European backwaters such as Ljubljana or Skopje can claim scores of places for dope-smoking ragamuffins to dream their little dreams, Vilnius can come up with just the one regular place. Opened by a Portuguese expat and the survivors of Lithuanias original warehouse party scene, Satta features an in-your-face extravaganza of pseudo-revolutionary adventures including dubious graffiti, sleepwalking bar staff and a smoking room that would promote any half-thinking police constable in the blink of an eye. The fact that its still here after so long confirms all previous suspicions that far from being the hotbed of insurgency it likes to think it is, Satta is little more than a diversionary playground for the next generation of well-educated lawyers and housewives. Q Opening hours erratic. JE
gallery by day, live music club by night, this quintessential, tumbledown Uupis space provides access and atmosphere to anyone with a slightly alternative take on life. Friendly and accommodating, Stopks embraced the very best of DiY culture and literally turned it into an art form. Facebook followers are encouraged to find them online to see what all the fuss is about. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:30. Closed Mon, Sun. Open from Dec 17. JE lt. An industrial style basement club aimed at a primarily young, student crowd who consider themselves alternative to varying degrees of success. The evenings here are manifold, and include everything from live jazz to DJs pumping out a plethora of noise from techno to funk. The recommended kitchen churns out a fine range of sandwiches, burgers and Asian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 - 04:00, Fri 11:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Entrance 10-30Lt. PJKW complete refit which has seen the bar turn 90 degrees and some new pictures go up on the walls, Franki may just have lost the respect it slowly gained from us over the last year and a bit. The last thing you want on a cold autumn night is to be standing at the bar waiting for service as the barman and some of his friends bugger about with the remote control for the television entirely oblivious of your existence whilst two waitresses whisper about the foreigners at the table by the door. This sort of thing shouldnt happen in a modern country, and when it does people should be told. Youve just been told. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 11:00 - 03:00. PJSW
Franki B-3, Vilniaus 37, tel. (+370) 5 265 99 99. In a
Stopk D-3, Uupio 2a, tel. (+370) 677 876 33. Art
In Vino C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 10,
www.invino.lt. In Vino is worth investigating. Catching on to the current craze for wine bars in the city early on, theyve obviously got a real appreciation for wine of which they stock a fair amount. Perhaps best enjoyed on a Friday or Saturday night, this is one of the best places in town to mingle with the cream of the citys C-list celebrities. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. PJAUSW
La Bohme B-3, v. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 212 10

87. They still cant cook pasta but they do at last have a space to drink outside, making Old Towns favourite upscale boozer better than ever. The grandiose medieval interior is perfect for group celebrations (although you should definitely think twice before ordering the pasta), and the wine list is both thoughtful and extensive. All in all a most suitable venue for everyone from passing lads on the pull to a coach-load of grandmothers. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.JAS
Woo B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 5 212 77 40, www.woo.
Light Bar Lounge B-5, Rdnink 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 13 49. One primarily but not exclusively for the boys, Light Bar Lounge not only mix cocktails they also mix semi-naked girls into the equation. Brimming with pretty young things in various states of undress and decorated in an equally eye-popping manner, prepare to empty your wallet in exchange for one of the most thrillingly bizarre evenings available in the city. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. PJA Red Room A3/4, Trak 2. Were really sorry about this,
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Saint Germain D-3, Literat 9/32, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 10, www.vynine.lt. Decorated inside to imitate French shambles chic and further reinforced with plenty of good outdoor seating during the summer, Saint Germain may be a French restaurant in the minds of some, but really its more of a wine bar. Often full of good-looking middle-aged locals and a smattering of tourists, the atmosphere is certainly one of the best in town, and the wine list equally admirable. If you do also choose to eat here, the food, which features not just French dishes, is affordable and generally fairly good. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. JASW Tappo Doro B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 686 168 66, www.tempolibero.lt. Hidden away between the Cathedral and the Presidents Palace, this little gem adds yet another string to the maestros bow also known as contemporary Vilnius. Hitching a ride on the coat tails of the citys current obsession with wine bars and gourmet food, Tappo Doro is part wine bar and part delicatessen. As well as a chilled cabinet full of speciality meats, cheese and olives, find a tastefully decorated drinking area and summer terrace complete with a list of Italian wines longer than the Bible. Fun and very busy at the weekends. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. JAS Zanzibar C-3, Pilies 27, tel. (+370) 616 177 76, www.
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but honestly its not our fault. The recently opened Red Room claims to be a cocktail bar, and with the exception of the exposed part of the citys old defensive walls that make up part of the building you probably dont want to have a look inside. Missing the point completely and pandering to people from the countryside whove recently discovered you can buy clothes in places other than markets, its got absolutely nothing going for it unless youre on the pull. QOpen 22:00 09:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. JA
Wine
only a matter of time before local heavyweights ili moved into the wine bar market, choosing to put their very own version underneath their own restaurant in Old Town. A brooding cellar complete with chirpy staff and miniature waterfall, DiVinCi is actually rather good. The wine list is impressive and, at least when we visited, theres a distinct lack of the kind of people one usually associates with wine bars drinking inside. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. JAW
DiVinCi B-4, Vokiei 8, tel. (+370) 698 167 28. It was
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zanzibaras.com.Its always interesting to see how people interpret Africa, which in the case of the designers behind this super little Old Town bar is zebra stripes, television screens showing photographs of mud huts and, curiously, Hotel California on the hifi. We pulled up on a Tuesday, not the best night of the week for a safari, but were still impressed by the small glasses of dark and fruity Grimbergen served by a coy blonde maiden of equal zestiness. Weekends here promise much fun and frolicking to be sure. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PJAW
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Microbreweries
For the record, our definition of a microbrewery includes bars selling beer from microbreweries. Enjoy.
Vilniaus Alus C-2, Pilies 6, tel. (+370) 600 277 33.
NEW
Bsi Treias B-2, Totori 18, tel. (+370) 5 231 26 98, www.busitrecias.lt. Meaning something along the lines of Youll be the third, Bsi Treias functions as one of the capitals only microbreweries (avoid the cherry- and almond-flavoured brews if you value the taste of beer at all) as well as a better than average place to dine on gut-busting local dishes. Downstairs is a genuinely good bar, whilst the large upper level has the feel of a demented German beer hall complete with sozzled groups of locals singing patriotic songs and falling off the wooden benches. Definitely worth marking down as an inclusion on any raucous pub crawl. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PJAW nekutis B-5, v. Stepono 8, tel. (+370) 650 470 58. Not a microbrewery as such, nekutis sneaks into this section on account of hoarding traditional, microbrewery-brewed beers from all corners of the country. Some of this is live, meaning it only lasts a few days, not unlike the hangover that goes with the superb 12% Staias from Panevys. A couple of large ones of these and you might find yourself rolling down the mysterious staircase by the toilet. Should this happen, dont be surprised to find yourself fished out by the barman, a personable gentleman with a theatrical moustache. Highly recommended, and extremely popular, meaning its not uncommon to find yourself sharing a bench with a strange Lithuanian man eating unidentified animal parts from a bowl. Rare for Lithuania, nekutis doesnt have table service. Order at the bar. Also at Polocko 7a. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJS vilnius.inyourpocket.com
It feels like forever since the legendary Pilies Pasao Kavin closed its doors for the last time, a sad passing that did at least leave room for the opening of this affair. Vilnius Beer is a tiny little place in a small courtyard that specialises in selling good beer at good prices to good people who often turn bad after a few litres. Also arranging beer-tasting sessions, at the time of going to press they were selling the house Vilniaus Alus after which the place is named for a jaw-dropping 3.5Lt a litre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. J
Tamsta D-5, Subaiaus 11a/1, tel. (+370) 5 212 44 98, www.tamstaclub.lt. Music ranges from jazz to artrock to old fashioned rock and roll, theres a long bar to keep everyone fed and watered, plus once a month they organise a so-called Open Mic Day where outsiders can come and improvise along with other like-minded musicians. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00, Wed, Thu 19:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Entrance 10-30Lt. JAE
Live music
New York H-2, Kalvarij 85, tel. (+370) 699 155 87, www.newyorkclub.lt. Opened in 2004 in the style of an old-fashioned musical theatre, New Yorks finally found its feet as more of a live music club than anything else. Set among authentic theatrical dcor, evenings here include everything from the occasional cabaret act to all sorts of music shows to the theatres long-running play, Urvinis mogus (Defending the Caveman). See their website for more information. Q Opening hours depend on repertoire. Entrance 25-60Lt. PE December 2010 - March 2011
Cabaret
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Gay & Lesbian
www.sohoclub.lt. One main space for drinking and chatting and another for dance-orientated activities both sub-divided even further and decorated in the style of a vampires Council house. Punters have the chance to send SMS messages to a large screen for the purposes of making money. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00, Thu 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. Entrance free - 20Lt. A
Soho G-4, vitrigailos 7/16, tel. (+370) 699 395 67,
Dolls H-3, Konstitucijos 18, tel. (+370) 5 272 84 82. Dollicious! This is an absolutely fantastic place to indulge in the truly titillating. Outstanding dancers, some of the best in town, are willing to wiggle and jiggle their scantily clad flesh before you, above you and possibly even beneath you for a price. Catch a free limousine ride to the club from Old Town to visit the Barbie of your dreams. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Entrance 80Lt. PA Escape (Cleopatra) G-3, Gedimino 37, tel. (+370) 670 888 84, www.escapeclub.lt. You know how Egyptians in pictures are always thin and svelte, somehow glistening, bathed in golden light, and wearing little skirts? Well, here they dont bother too much with the skirts. Fortunately the only dogs youll find in here are the little statues on the side of the stage, and theres plenty of Nefertiti on display. So, if youre feeling a bit bored, or Bedouin, Cleopatra could offer the diversion youre looking for. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Entrance 100Lt. PA Escape (Mirage) H-3, Konstitucijos 12, tel. (+370) 608 444 42, www.escapeclub.lt. You have to see it to believe it. A spectacle of flesh beyond compare, and just out of reach, is promised each night the doors open. Expect to witness the most beautiful women in the Baltics leaving you to wonder whether they were real, or just a mirage. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Entrance 100Lt. PA Old Town Strip Club C-4, Rdnink 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 13 49, www.oldtown.lt. Expect a thumping, throbbing, erotically charged escapade. These ladies dont mess around when its show time. Well actually they mess around with a lot of toys. The hardcore Eros on display here is unparalleled in this city, but the very best part might just be the deliciously innocent waitresses who somehow manage to keep all their clothes on. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. Entrance 80Lt. PJA December 2010 - March 2011
Adult entertainment
Vilnius In Your Pocket doesnt mention what ones expected to pay for alcohol and other services in the places listed in the Adult entertainment section of this guide. Although by no means expensive relatively speaking, strip clubs here arent exactly cheap. The memorable story of a visiting businessman from a country that shall remain nameless suffering an attack of serial private dancing and then not being able to pay his bill is one of many similar tales, and is worth remembering, especially if, as in the case of this gentleman, its someone from your embassy that has to get up in the middle of the night and sort it out. So, please, before you indulge too much, make sure you know exactly what youre getting yourselves into.
Aistros Massage B-6, V. openo 1, tel. (+370) 608 444 43/(+370) 5 233 07 32, www.aistrosmasazai.lt. A range of massages aimed at reducing fatigue and stress courtesy of such delightful-sounding therapies as Erotic, With Honey, and Four Hands. Also at S. ukausko 26, tel. (+370) 601 903 31. Konstitucijos 12 (Mirage Club), tel. (+370) 608 444 42. Gedimino 37 (Cleopatra Club), tel. (+370) 670 888 84. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA vilnius.inyourpocket.com
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what to see
The Lithuanian capitals first period of growth took place immediately south of todays Cathedral Square, eventually becoming the toothsome jumble of Baroque, Gothic, Neoclassical and Renaissance architecture now known as Old Town. Although most people flock to the city to visit the former, there are plenty of other things to see when in town, from the very Lithuanian eccentricities encountered over the imaginary border in the self-styled Republic of Uupis to the pitifully few remaining relics of a once thriving Jewish community to the occasional Soviet-era masterpiece. Fill the buildings with a reasonably interesting collection of museums and galleries, put some decent parks in the spaces in-between, and youll find it hard to not find a reason to visit.
Essential Vilnius
If you havent got a lot of time in Vilnius, then the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus (p.48), Dawn Gate (p.53), Gediminas Castle & Museum (below), Genocide Victims Museum (below) and St. Annes Church (p.52) are generally considered to be the major sights. This list is of course highly subjective, and in no way reflects the expectations of every single visitor to the city. Vilnius In Your Pocket strives to bring you the widest range of historical and cultural sights and sensations, and is adding to the list all the time. If you think theres something missing, write to us and let us know.
Museums & Galleries
C-3, v. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. Although not officially a museum this two-storey ode to amber offers explanations in English, German and Lithuanian about the formation, colour, harvesting and processing of Baltic Gold. Follow ambers history through a series of ancient rooms in the cellar. Amber polishing demos available upon request. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free. J D-1, Arsenalo 3a, tel. (+370) 5 262 80 80, www.ldm.lt. Housed inside what was the far northeast corner of the citys original defensive walls, of which some including an original gate can still be seen inside, this worthy inclusion into the citys national treasures is stuffed full of good things to see, among them little models of how the city once looked, furniture, paintings and much more besides. Among the permanent exhibits find three unmissable collections of sacred Lithuanian art including examples from both the Catholic and Orthodox Churches dating back as far as the 15th century. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt. J
Amber Museum-Gallery (Gintaro Muziejus-Galerija)
Church Heritage Museum (Banytinio Paveldo Muziejus) D-3, v. Mykolo 9, tel. (+370) 5 269 78
03, www.bpmuziejus.lt. Founded in October 2005 by the Archbishop of Vilnius, Audrys Juozas Bakis, and moved to the splendour of the former 17th-century St. Michaels Church in 2009, this recommended museum, which in reality celebrates just the Lithuanian Catholic Church, features two floors of paintings, liturgical articles, literature and some fine wooden carvings from the collections of some of the finest churches in the country. In English, and with an optional audio guide, theres no thread to the things on display, although almost with exception each piece is fascinating in its own way. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 9/5Lt. J
Applied Art Museum (Taikomosios Dails Muziejus)
C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 02 73. Rather awkward to find hidden away inside a courtyard opposite the funicular station, this often overlooked collection of clothing, documents and other articles tracing the history and culture of Lithuania from the 13th century to the present is equally interesting for being housed inside a splendid historical building that once made up part of the citys defensive wall. Blind you with its ingenuity it wont, but for a pleasant 30 minutes that takes in one or two especially lovely exhibits, locating the hole in the wall to find the entrance is definitely worth the bother. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5/2Lt. J
Archaeology Museum (Archeologijos Muziejus)
Muziejus) C-1, Castle Hill, tel. (+370) 5 261 74 53. Dating from the 13th century the castle was rebuilt in 1419 by Grand Duke Vytautas following the great fire of Vilnius. In 1610 it was used as a prison for the ruling classes, and during the 1655-1661 Russian occupation the towers and defensive walls were almost completely destroyed, with serious albeit only partial restoration work beginning (presumably by the Poles) as late as 1930. Inside the tower itself find models of the castle as it was in the 14th and 18th centuries plus other miscellaneous bits and pieces concerned with the buildings history and knights in dented armour. The view on a good day is recommended. The walk to the top is currently closed until further notice, meaning the only way to get up is to pay by riding on a funicular-type train (tickets 3/2Lt) which runs up and down the hills northern slope regularly. Find it hidden in a courtyard immediately west of the Applied Art Museum on Arsenalo. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/2Lt. J Genocide Victims Museum (Genocido Auk Muziejus) G-4, Auk 2a, tel. (+370) 5 249 62 64, www.genocid.
Gediminas Castle & Museum (Gedimino Pilis ir
St. Catherines Church
lt/muziejus. The sign outside reads that between 1940 and 1991 this building housed the representative institutions of the NKVD and KGB, and, accordingly, the exhibits inside relate almost exclusively to the period of oppression and the so-called genocide of the Lithuanian people by the Communist regime. Understandably a must-see part of any trip to Vilnius for people wishing to understand this often bleaak and violent period in the countrys history, what the sign fails to point out is that between 1941 and 1944 the building was controlled by the Gestapo, whose role in the systematic murder of the vast majority of the citys Jewish population with the willing participation of many ethnic Lithuanians is, somewhat bizarrely, almost completely overlooked. This worrying oversight should in no way deter readers from visiting whats a predominantly commendable museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt.
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www.muziejai.lt. Housed inside Vilnius first power station, built in 1903, this tremendous museum is packed full of displays including a room full of old cars and motorbikes, a fascinating collection of machines and photographs dedicated to the postwar Soviet industrialisation of the country and the history of Lithuanian manufacturing plus, on the top floor, two rooms for children complete with touch-screen displays and interactive games aimed at explaining the basics of science, which is in English as well as Lithuanian. Everything has been built around the old power plant turbines and steam boilers, giving the place a really special atmosphere. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10/5Lt.
Lithuanian Energy Museum (Lietuvos Energetikos Muziejus) I-3, Rinktins 2, tel. (+370) 5 278 20 85,
Vilniaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 06, www.ltmkm.lt. Originating in 1926 as a theatre museum and slowly collecting departments and exhibits over the decades until it became what it is today, this mildly interesting cultural diversion inside a glorious 18th-century former palace and theatre charts the Lithuanian history of the three arts. Among several badly ventilated rooms full of harmoniums, 19th-century theatre posters and recordings of famous Lithuanian opera singers are one or two gems including several displays given over to the life of the actress Un Babickait (aka. Une Baye or Bye, 1897-1961), who received a modicum of cinematic success in the United States in the 1920s. The museum also features several temporary exhibitions of painting and photography. If you can prevent the old ladies who guard the place from pestering you every couple of minutes you might just find you enjoy this place. Entrance is around the back of the building. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 5/3Lt. J
Lithuanian Theatre, Music & Cinema Museum (Lietuvos Teatro, Muzikos ir Kino Muziejus) B-3,
5 261 07 71. The doctor, linguist, translator and Lithuanian political figure Jurgis lapelis (1876-1941) and his operasinging, bookshop-owning wife Marija (1880-1977) were both prominent figures in the Lithuanian national revival movement during the late-19th and early-20th century who once lived in this very building. Among the many items on display are a few classics for those interested in philology. Of particular interest are the 19th-century books illustrating the development of the Lithuanian alphabet, from the use of Polish letter combinations through some now obsolete diacritics to the letters used today. In Lithuanian only. Bizarre and strangely compelling. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission free. J
Marija and Jurgis lapeliai Museum (Marijos ir Jurgio lapeli Muziejus) C-3, Pilies 40, tel. (+370)
Tourist information
Vilnius Tourist Information B-3, Vilniaus 22, tel. (+370) 5 262 96 60, fax (+370) 5 262 81 69, tic@vilnius. lt, www.vilnius-tourism.lt. Brochures, entertainment schedules, English-, German-, Polish- and Russian-speaking staff. Car rental and accommodation also available. Also several sightseeing tours and excursions arranged plus rental of audio guides. See their website for the latest information as well as their events website at www.vilnius-events.lt. Also at Didioji 31 (Town Hall), tel. (+370) 5 262 64 70. Geleinkelio 16 (Train Station), tel./fax (+370) 5 269 20 91. ventaragio 2 (Cathedral Square). QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. J December 2010 - March 2011
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what to see
H-3, Konstitucijos 22, tel. (+370) 5 219 59 60, www.ndg. lt. Found inside a renovated and enlarged building that once housed the Museum of the Revolution of the Lithuanian Soviet Socialist Republic, this bold endeavour showcases the work of a multitude of artists of Lithuanian origin from the 20th and 21st century. Among the commendable cast of contributors, examples on permanent display include work from a diverse range of artists including the Jewish sculptor Jacques Lipchitz (1891-1973) and the countrys most outstanding documentary photographer Antanas Sutkus (b. 1939). The museum is organised to highlight particular styles, eras and political attitudes to art in Lithuania under the numerous regimes of the past century and also stages temporary exhibitions that are well worth visiting. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt.
National Art Gallery (Nacionalin Dails Galerija)
jus) C-1, Arsenalo 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 26, www.lnm. lt. Lithuanias oldest museum, parts of the collection inside this intriguing history lesson date back to the 13th century. On permanent display are religious and secular items highlighting the cultural and ethnographic life of the nation, including recreations of traditional homesteads, clothing, paintings and much more. Also to be found are some of the things unearthed in the mass grave of Napoleonic soldiers nearby in 2001. The museum also puts on temporary shows, of which some are truly outstanding. A vital key in unlocking the secrets of the Lithuanian people. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5/2Lt. J
mino 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 48 81. No longer the force they were, the reform movement who spearheaded the fight for Lithuanian independence between 1988 and 1990 continue to operate from this building overlooking the Cathedral. Part office and part museum, the latter holds many interesting artefacts including several volumes of Lithuanian press clippings charting the demise and eventual overthrow of the occupying Soviets, two walls lined with some truly remarkable photographs and the desk where Vytautas Landsbergis oversaw the destruction of the dastardly invaders. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. J
National Museum (Lietuvos Nacionalinis Muzie-
Sjdis Museum (Sjdio Muziejus) C-2, Gedi-
Cathedral
Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus (Vilniaus v. Stanislovo ir v. Vladislovo Arkikatedra Bazilika) C-2, Kat-
edros 1, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 27. The most impor tant Catholic building in Lithuania, Vilnius Cathedral as its more usually known was first built in 1251 by a newly converted Grand Duke Mindaugas on the site of a supposed pagan temple. Returned to pagan use after Mindaugas death in 1263, the church was given back to the Catholic Church on the countrys official conversion to Christianity in 1387, although the building that now stands in its place has little to do with the original structure. The current building dates to around 1419, with countless modifications and additions made after that. Its present Neo-Classical form is largely down to the work of the Lithuanias first true architect, Laurynas Stuoka Guceviius (Pol. Wawrzyniec Gucewicz, 1753-1798), who was also responsible for a number of other notable buildings in the city including the Town Hall. The rather plain nave betrays eleven chapels, among them the must-see High Baroque Chapel of St. Casimir (1458-1484), Lithuanias patron saint. Built in 1636 to house his remains, the chapel is one of the countrys national treasures. The three statues of Sts. Stanislaus, Helena and Casimir on the roof, supposedly representing Poland, Russia and Lithuania, are 1997 copies of the 18th-century originals which were taken down and lost by the Soviets in 1950, the year the building was confiscated from the Catholics. Spending several years as an art gallery and even mooted as a car repair workshop at one time, the Cathedral was returned to the Catholic Church on October 22, 1988 during the eventful Sjdis Congress and was re-consecrated on February 5, 1989. The 57-metre free-standing bell tower, a popular contemporary meeting place, was originally part of one of the gates in the citys defensive wall and has been added to several times over the centuries which gives it its peculiar shape. It received six new bells in 2002, baptised by Cardinal Audrys Bakis, the current Archbishop of Vilnius, in a special ceremony. Q Mass 08:00, 17:30, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:15, 12:30, 17:30. 18:30 (Latin). J
Signatories House (Signatar Namai) C-3, Pilies 26, tel. (+370) 5 231 44 42, www.muziejai.lt. According to the tour guide who whisks you around the place on this 30-minute history lesson, during the first German occupation of Lithuania from 1915 until the end of WWI, the only officially sanctioned Lithuanian organisation was a group who looked after war veterans and who were based inside this building. It was due to this function that the small, three-roomed apartment on the third floor of the building became the setting for the signing of Lithuanias declaration of independence on February 16, 1918 by the Lithuanian Council (Lietuvos Taryba). The room in which the document was signed, complete with the table it was signed on, is open to view. Theres not much else to see, plus everything remains labelled in Lithuanian only. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 2 Lt/free. J Tuskulnai Peace Park Memorial Complex (Tuskuln Rimties Parko Memorialinis Kompleksas) irmn 1f, tel. (+370) 5 275 07 04. Between 1944
and 1947 over 700 Lithuanians and Poles were executed by the KGB and buried in what was at the time State-owned property in the grounds of the 19th-century Tuskuln Dvaras manor house. In 1994 the remains of the bodies were discovered and the area has now been turned into a memorial park. The park complex currently comprises the manor, the former stable building next door that now houses an art gallery, a smaller house nearby with attached Catholic shrine and a columbarium (kolumbariumas), an extraordinary underground burial chamber thats really a mausoleum and where the remains are now kept. Financial problems have seen larger plans for the complex shelved until a future unknown date, although tours, which are interesting despite the lack of a proper museum, can be booked in advance. Q Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also by appointment. Admission free.
Vilnius Picture Gallery (Vilniaus Paveiksl Galerija) C-3, Didioji 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 58, www.ldm.
lt. Housed inside the charming 17th-century Chodkeviiai (Chodkiewicz) family palace, this splendid little museum is of the type in which a menagerie of middle-aged ladies shuttle you around from room to room like a pinball. Ignore them if you can, and enjoy a great collection of local painting, drawing and sculpture plus a couple of rooms stuffed full of
what to see
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exemplary furniture, all of it representing the last several hundred years of achievement. They also put on temporary exhibitions here, of which some are well worth checking out. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt. J C-5, Auros Vart 19, tel. (+370) 673 723 11. Over 100 life-size wax figures on two floors including everybody from the late Pope John Paul II to a 3D reproduction of Leonardo da Vincis The Last Supper to Adolph Hitler no less. The historical building in which the museum is located dates from the 17th century. Initially belonging to the Orthodox Church, in the months preceding Lithuanian independence in 1918 it fell into the of hands the Lithuanian Education Association (Lietuvi Mokslo Draugija) and was briefly the home of none other than independence hero Jonas Basanaviius. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 16/6Lt. J
Wax Figures Museum (Vakini Figr Muziejus)
this day. Current highlights include 14 magnificent rococo altars and the oldest known crucifix in the country, dating from the 15th century. The neighbouring monastery is the oldest part of the ensemble. Once famed for its extensive library and independent-minded monks, the monastery was closed soon after the failed Uprising of 1863 and turned into a barracks for tsarist troops before falling into the hands of the citys Art Academy at the end of WWI. The building now houses the Vilnius Art Academy. Q Mass Mon, Tue, Thu 07:30, Wed 07:30, 18:00, Fri 07:30, 18:00, Sat 09:00, 18:00, Sun 09:00 (English), 10:30, 13:00, 17:00. J
Churches
Banyia ir Vienuolynas) D-3, Maironio 8, tel. (+370) 5 260 92 92. Once forming part of the citys original defensive walls and constructed on the site of an earlier wooden church dating from the middle of the 15th century at the behest of an order of Bernadine monks, the current vast Gothic church with Baroque and Renaissance additions dates from the early part of the 16th century onwards. As the old photographs on display show, the church interior was truly breathtaking before the Soviet authorities took control of the building, handing it over to the Vilnius Art Institute who among other things allegedly incorporated parts of the interior into the works of art the academy was producing. Returned to the monks soon after independence, a mammoth restoration project continues to vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Bernardine Church & Monastery (Bernardin
stantino ir Michailo Cerkv) H-4, J. Basanaviiaus 27, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 90. Built in 1913 at the very end of tsarist rule within the city as part of the 300th anniversary celebrations of the Romanov Dynasty, this rather absurdlooking Russian Orthodox church is famed hereabouts for its garish green domes. On closer inspection, the church, which supposedly incorporates elements of both the Rostov and Suzdal styles, is a beautiful design, as early postcards showing the original dome designs attest. The interior is relatively plain, and only really recommended for serious enthusiasts. Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of God (Znamenskaya) G-3, Vytauto 21/1, tel. (+370)
Church of Sts. Michael & Constantine (v. Kon-
5 275 13 75. Built in 1903 and topped with several beautiful Neo-Byzantine cupolas, this is one of the best loved Russian Orthodox churches in Vilnius. Among the numerous icons hanging inside are potted plants that make the place feel really alive. Next to the icons are special prayers for each saint, but as everything in the church is written in Russian youll need a translator to help work them out. The church was fully restored inside and out in 2009 Q Services Sat, Sun 09:00.
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what to see
rooms for anatomy classes inside. In 1842 soldiers moved in as the church acted as a barracks before it took on several other uses before General Muravyov and his brother had it restored to its current Georgian appearance and used as a house of worship towards the end of the 1860s. Q Services Sat 17:00, Sun 09:00. J
Banyia) B-3, Dominikon 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 95 95. Like many of the citys churches, the Dominican Church of the Holy Spirit was built on the site of a former wooden house of worship that met a fiery fate. The current buildings appearance started taking shape towards the end of the 14th century. In 1501 it was given to an order of Dominican monks who built a monastery nearby. Its present Baroque appearance dates to the mid-18th century when the church was rebuilt after serious fire damage. Inside is a wealth of Baroque and rococo splendour, well worth further investigation. Interestingly, the building, which functions as Vilnius Polish Catholic communitys main church, remained opened throughout the entire Soviet occupation. Gaining rare access to the churchs crypts promises a ghoulish adventure amidst some 2,000 corpses in varying states of repair. Dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, the bodies are supposedly victims of the plague. Q Mass only in Polish 15:00, 18:00, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 18:00. J Evangelical Lutheran Church (Evangelik Liuteron Banyia) B-4, Vokiei 20, tel. (+370) 5
Church of the Holy Spirit (ventosios Dvasios
B-2, S. Daukanto 1, tel. (+370) 5 260 93 47. On the other side of the Presidential Palace from the University, this charming little churchs history dates back to 1543 and the building of a chapel on the site to commemorate the martyrdom of a group of 14th-century Franciscan friars. Slowly added to over the centuries, including the attached Bonifratri Monastery, the church is now more or less late Baroque in appearance with a few rococo flourishes, and is notable as being the only church in Vilnius converted from an ordinary house rather than being purpose-built. The small interior is well worth having a peep at if the main doors arent bolted as they usually are, the most outstanding feature being the painting, Holy Virgin Mother of Snow on the high altar, a copy of which can be found on the fresco over the main entrance. The small square in which the church is located also features a stylised, Soviet-era bust of Laurynas Stuoka-Guceviius (1753-1798), Lithuanias first serious architect who was responsible for the contemporary look of the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus among other buildings in the city. Q Mass 17:15, Sun 10:00 (Latin), 12:00.
Church of the Holy Cross (v. Kryiaus Banyia)
212 37 92, www.vilniuschurch.org. Built in 1555, two years after the first German-speaking Lutheran community is said to have arrived in Vilnius, the crowning glory of this small Gothic and Baroque church on the street named after the citys German community is the gorgeous rococo altar, dating from 1741 and the work of Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767), a Lithuanian of German extraction and the citys foremost architect at the time. Serving as a workshop and basketball court under the Communists, the building was returned to its congregation in 1991 and has since become the predominant house of worship for the capitals multi-denomination, Englishspeaking Christians. Q Mass Tue, Thu 08:00, Wed 18:00, Fri, 17:00, Sun 09:45 (English, Ecumenical Protestant), 11:00 (Lithuanian). J
Franciscan Church (Prancikon Banyia) B-4,
5 215 37 47. Originally dating back to the middle of the 14th century, this slightly unusual-looking church which also functions as the citys Russian Orthodox Cathedral and that as such is often referred to as the Cathedral of the Theotokos in Vilnius owes much of its partial Neo-Byzantine design to reconstruction work completed in 1522. In 1808, soon after the start of tsarist rule in Vilnius, the building fell into the hands of Vilnius University who divided it into two floors, constructing a library, classrooms and dissection
Church of the Holy Mother of God (Skaisiausios Dievo Motinos Cerkv) D-3, Maironio 14, tel. (+370)
Trak 9-1, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 42. The Franciscan Church, or the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Franciscan Abbey in Vilnius to give it its full title, dates from the middle of the 14th century. Currently a beguiling building site of crumbling Gothic and Baroque magnificence, work continues both inside and out to restore it to its original beauty. Amidst the hastily assembled wooden seating, pile of bricks on the sanctuary and scaffolding towers, work is slowly moving forwards. At the time of our last visit, the Chapel of the Virgin Mary, complete with a statue of the lady reputed to have miracle-working powers, was nearing completion, giving some indication of how things will eventually look. Q Mass 17:30 (Lithuanian), 19:00 (Polish), Sun 10:00 (Lithuanian), 11:30, 13:00 (Polish). J
Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate (v. Trejybs Cerkv ir Bazilijon Vartai) C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel.
(+370) 5 212 25 78. Consisting of a church, monastery, belfry and beautiful rococo gate, with the exception of the latter much of it in a state of hideous disrepair, the Holy Trinity Church originally dates from 1514 and features elements of Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Byzantine architecture. Built at the behest of the Belarusian national hero Konstantin
what to see
Ivanovich Ostrozhsky (Konstantinas Ostrogikis, ca. 14601530), the church, which was extensively altered after a serious fire in the middle of the 18th century, belongs to the Uniates or Eastern Catholic Church, a peculiar faith which fuses together many Orthodox beliefs whilst recognising the Pope as Gods representative on Earth. The church is a complete mess inside, almost completely empty with the exception of some wonderful, barely visible frescos both inside and out. Theres also a small chapel on the right as you enter. Renovation work is slow. The elaborate, 17.9m gate was built in 1761 to a design by Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767). Q Services only in Ukrainian Mon-Wed 06:30, Thu-Sat 17:30, Sun 10:00, 13:00 . J C-3, Didioji 2. Dating back to the middle of the 14th century and itself built on the site of what many believe to be a former pagan place of worship, the charming albeit somewhat diminutive Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva can not only claim to have been the first church in Vilnius to be made of stone but is also the alleged location of the baptism in 1705 of none other than Hannibal, the African prince and great grandfather of Alexander Pushkin who was brought to Russia by Peter the Great from part of Africa thats now Eritrea. Originally in the hands of the Uniate Church, the building, which had been rebuilt on several occasions due to fire, fell into disrepair around the time of the Third Partition of 1795, laying abandoned for seven decades before being almost completely rebuilt in 1864 only to suffer major fire damage during WWII. Reconstructed in 1949, the building closed in 1961, opening a year later as a museum of painting before being returned to the Orthodox Church on May 31, 1991. Unusually for a Russian Orthodox Church in Lithuania, services are conducted in Lithuanian once a week on a Sunday. J
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Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva (Pyatnickaya)
Sightseeing tours
Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Astrida G-3, J. Tumo Vaiganto 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 27 90, www.astrida.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center
C-4, Subaiaus 2, tel. 1593/(+370) 5 212 02 20, www.bts.lt. Exciting sigthseeing tours in Lithuania with professional guides. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
BTI West Express Lietuva A-1, A. Stulginskio 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 25 00, www.westexpress.lt. Also at Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Ateities 91 (Mandarinas). QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Lithuanian Holidays H-1, eimyniki 1a, tel.
(+370) 5 263 60 64, www.lithuanianholidays.lt. Jewish and other Vilnius tours. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
212 77 65. Dating originally from the mid-16th century but predominantly now the combined work of the citys most renowned and prolific religious architect Johann Christoph Glaubitz (Jonas Kristupas Glaubicas, ca. 1700-1767) who spent four years on the rococo design between 1749 and 1753 and later 19th-century Neo-Byzantine modifications, the entire ensemble is comprised of the church, a freestanding bell tower, monastery and convent although its the church interior thats of most interest, being positively bursting with frescos, icons, a magnificent cupola and rich blue and green colours. A particular quirk of the churchs crypt saw it being chosen in the middle of the 19th century as the final resting place of the supposedly incorruptible Saints Jonas, Eustachius, and Antanas, couriers of Algirdas whose remains are displayed dressed in white at Christmas, in black during Lent, in red on all other occasions with the exception of June 26 when theyre put on display entirely naked. Q Services 08:00, 17:00, Sun 06:45, 10:00, 17:00. J
Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit (Staiatiki v. Dvasios Cerkv) C-5, Auros Vart 10, tel. (+370) 5
Vilnius City Tour C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 55 58, www.vilniuscitytour.com. Englishlanguage guided tours start from Cathedral Square daily at 10:00 and 13:00, 15:00 and cost 75Lt, and from the Town hall at 10:10, 13:10 and 15:10. Also bus tours to Trakai daily at 11:00 (100Lt) and daily audio guides from Cathedral Square at 12:00 and 17:00. QOpen 09:30 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00. JA vilnius.inyourpocket.com
279 10 52. The origin of the Protestant Church in Lithuania, whose three traditional strongholds still exist in Birai, Kdainiai and Vilnius, dates back to John Calvins lifetime in 1557, although this particular church, considered one of the finest examples of Neo-Classical architecture in the country, was built considerably later between 1830 and 1835. The work of one of the best local Neo-Classical architects of his day Karolis Podainskis (Pol. Karol Podczaszyski, 1790-1860), the church was closed by the Soviets in 1953, eventually becoming a cinema, a fact the church now betrays courtesy of the cinema seats still in use. Q Mass in Lithuanian Sun 11:00. J
Ref ormed Evangelical Church (Evangelik Reformat Banyia) A-3, Pylimo 20, tel. (+370) 5
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what to see
St. Annes Church
Maironio 8. Unquestionably one of the citys most famous landmarks and quite rightly so, the history of St. Annes starts with the alleged construction in the 14th century of a wooden house of worship on this spot in honour of Ona, the wife of Vytautas the Great. The first historical records of a church here date from 1394, although the current Gothic masterpiece is believed to have been built between 1495 and 1500 to a design by the Bohemian architect Benedikt Rejt (1453-1534), most famous for designing parts of Prague Castle. Unlike other historical churches in Vilnius, St. Annes has managed to escape the ravages of time almost unscathed and is arguably the least changed of them all. Composed of 33 different styles of brick assembled into a delicate and intricate whole, the effect is simply quite stunning. Its been said the faade incorporates the Pillars of Gediminas, one of the countrys earliest symbols, although this is hardly clear from looking at it. The interior is perhaps surprisingly free of ostentation, although this is hardly needed due to the spectacular design of the structure. The free-standing bell tower has nothing to do with the original structure, being built only in 1873. A visiting Emperor Napoleon in 1812 famously if somewhat apocryphally noted hed like to take the building back to Paris in the palm of his hand. Q Mass 18:00, Sun 09:00, 11:00. J
St. Annes Church (v. Onos Banyia) D-3,
B-4, v. Mikalojaus 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 69. Predating the countrys conversion to Christianity by some 70 years, Vilnius oldest surviving church was built in 1320 by German merchant immigrants. Mentioned for the first time in 1387, the impressive, classic red brick Gothic exterior remains pretty much as it looked the day it was finished with the interior having received numerous changes and additions over the centuries. During the disputed annexation of the Vilnius region during the two World Wars, this was the only church in the city open to the citys small Lithuanianspeaking Catholic community. Q Mass 08:00, 18:00, Sat 09:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 14:00. J
St. Nicholas Church (v. Mikalojaus Banyia)
St. Nicolas Church (v. Mikalojaus Cerkv) C-4,
Didioji 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 85 59. The forerunner to this church dates supposedly to the second decade of the 16th century, belonging from 1609 until 1827 to the Uniate Church. At some time during the 18th century the original church burnt down and was replaced soon after in the Late Baroque style. At the height of the tensions between the Russians and several other ethnic communities in the city, the church was confiscated on the orders of General Muravyov and converted into a Russian Orthodox church with several Neo-Byzantine additions made in 1865. With its predominantly Catholic tower and typically Orthodox dome the church is one of the most peculiar looking houses of worship in the capital. Q Services Sat 09:00, 17:00, Sun 09:00. J
St. Casimirs Church (v. Kazimiero Banyia) C-4,
Didioji 34, tel. (+370) 5 212 17 15. St. Casimirs in many ways represents a microcosm of Lithuania itself. Founded by the Jesuits and dedicated to Lithuanias patron saint Prince Casimir Jagiellon (1458-1484), construction on the mighty building began in 1604 and was completed in 1635. Burnt to the ground just 20 years later when the Russians invaded in 1655, conflagration visited twice again within the next century in 1709 and 1749 before the architect, mathematician and astronomer Tomas ebrauskas (Pol. Thomas Zubrwka, 1714-1758) restored it to more or less the form it is seen in today. Over the centuries the church fell into the hands of the Augustinians, Napoleons Army, the Russian Orthodox Church (who significantly altered its appearance), the Lutherans (who used it as the garrison church for the occupying German Army during WWI) and others, including the Soviets who turned the whole place into a museum of atheism no less. Returned to the Catholic Church in 1988, the building was consecrated in 1991 and has since undergone a massive renovation project, restoring its predominantly Baroque style with Gothic and Renaissance touches. Of particular interest inside are three late Baroque altars and a recently discovered 17th-century crypt containing dark bas-reliefs featuring miscellaneous religious motifs. Q Mass 17:30, Sun 09:00, 10:30, 12:00. J
Sts. Johns Church (v. Jon Banyia) C-3, v. Jono 12, tel. (+370) 5 268 71 55. Built at the same time as Lithuanias conversion to Christianity in 1387, albeit with numerous radical alterations through the centuries, the vast and imposing Sts. Johns Church was given to the Jesuit Church in 1571 by Zygmunt II August (ygimantas Augustas, 1520-1572). On the dissolution of the Jesuit Order in 1773, the church was handed over to the adjoining University. The present building, which contains elements of all of the major architectural styles associated with Old Town boasts an extraordinary and predominantly Gothic interior whose crowning glory is its organ of which parts date back to an organ that came from the Belarusian city of Polotsk in 1831. The organ, the largest in country and that received a complete overhaul in stages between 1974 and 2000, is used extensively in classical concerts the church is now famous for. Q Mass Tue-Thu 18:00, Sun 11:00, 13:00. J Sts. Peter & Pauls Church (v. Apatal Petro ir Povilo Banyia) J-3, Antakalnio 1, tel. (+370) 5
234 02 29. Believed to have been built on the site of a site of worship to Milda, the pagan goddess of love, this breathtaking Late Baroque masterpiece was commissioned to celebrate victory over the Russians in 1668 by Michael Casimir Pac, the Grand Hetman of the Lithuanian armies, who never lived to see its completion. Financed by two of Pacs cousins and completed under several master craftsmen including the Polish Jan Zaor and Italian Gianbattista Frediani, the rather plain faade betrays an interior by Giovanni Pietro Perti and Giovanni Maria Galli thats quite simply out of this world. Containing over 2,000 astonishing stucco mouldings representing miscellaneous religious and mythological scenes, of equal magnificence are the 20th-century altar containing a wooden figure of Christ, Antakalnio Jzus (Jesus of Antakalnis) which features real human hair brought from Rome in 1700 and the Latvian chandelier made of brass and glass beads and dating from 1905. Q Mass 07:00, 07:30, 17:00 (Polish), 18:00, Sun 07:30, 08:30 (Polish), 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 18:00 (Lithuanian).
what to see
about 40 years after that, was housed inside a purpose-built chapel above the gate in 1706 and is believed to have magic healing powers. Interestingly, the Dawn Gate is revered by both the Catholic and Orthodox faiths and is such an important part of the citys cultural heritage that it remained open throughout the Soviet occupation. Watch closely as people walking underneath say a silent prayer. The chapel is open to the public and is accessed via a small door on the left as youre walking up the hill. Q Mass 07:30 (Latin), 09:00, 10:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30, Sun 09:00 (Polish), 09:30, 11:00, 13:00 (Polish), 17:30 (Polish), 18:30. J
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Church of the Holy Mother of God
St. Theresas Church (v. Teress Banyia) C-5, Auros Vart 14, tel. (+370) 5 212 35 13. Probably Vilnius best surviving example of Early Baroque religious architecture, work on the first incarnation of St. Theresas was completed in around 1650. Built at both the behest and expense of the then Deputy Chancellor Steponas Pacas (Pol. Stephan Pac), the straightforward idea behind its construction was to create the most beautiful church in the city, a fact that can clearly be seen by its elaborate faade, predominantly the work of the Swiss-born Constantino Tencalla (1610-1647) who also worked on St. Georges Chapel inside the citys Cathedral. The spectacular and predominantly rococo interior, much of it added in the middle of the 18th century, is a riot of golds and pinks. Q Mass 07:30, 09:00, 18:30, Sun 09:30, 11:00, 18:30. J
Green Bridge (aliasis Tiltas) H-3. A bridge of one description or another has stood on the spot of the Green Bridge since 1536. The current 103-metre metal construction dates from 1952 and was originally named after a Red Army general. The four groups of extraordinary sculptures at each corner represent agriculture (3.2m, sculptors B. Buas and P . Vaivada), industry and construction (3.2m, sculptors N. Petrulis and B. Vyniauskas), peace (4m, sculptor B. Pundzius) and that old Soviet chestnut, youth (3.2m, sculptors J. Miknas and J. Kdainis). One of a few examples of blatantly Soviet art still in a public place, the Socialist Realist masterpieces have evaded removal on the grounds that they represent no real people living or dead. Criminally rusting and falling apart, something needs to be done to ensure that they stay around for many years to come. Meanwhile, underneath the bridge can be found one of four proposed contemporary patriotic works of art currently being placed under different city river crossings. Bland, unimaginative and an unquestionable waste of money, take a peep underneath and be greeted by Grandin (Chain), the work of the local artist Kunotas Vildinas and representing the constraint, occupation and loss of the nation. Hill of Three Crosses (Trij Kryi Kalnas) I-3.
Legend has it that long ago seven Franciscan monks were crucified here. Originally erected in the 17th century, Stalin had the crosses removed and buried, and only in 1989 were they rebuilt according to the original plans. The crosses are a great symbol of both Lithuanian mourning and hope. An excellent view of Old Town is also to be found at this spot.
Centre of Europe (Europos Centras) Lithuania has the proud and noble distinction along with at least six other places of being smack in the middle of Europe. The Lithuanian claim stems from a 1989 ruling by Jean-George Affholder of Frances Institut Gographique National who announced that the site lies at Bernotai, close to the village of Purnuks some 26km north of Vilnius. The exact point, which can be reached by driving out of the city on the A14 in the direction of Moltai and looking for the signs, has been commemorated with the construction of an expensive monument, a fact that may go a long way to explaining why a recent recalculation placing the centre of Europe six kilometres closer to Vilnius is being more or less ignored by the cash-strapped nation. Ultimately one should remember that Europe is a concept and not actually a continent at all, making the whole affair slightly ridiculous in the first place.
(+370) 5 212 35 13. Completed in 1522, the Dawn Gate (or Sharp Gate (Ostra Brama) as its known to the Poles) is the only remaining gate from the citys original defensive walls. As was common at the time, an image of the Virgin Mary was placed above all gates to protect the city, and the story of the Dawn Gate starts from this simple historic fact. The current image, known as The Blessed Virgin Mary Mother of Mercy, was painted on eight pieces of oak in around 1630 by an unknown artist, was embellished with gold and silver
Places of interest
Kenesa F-3, Liubarto 6. The Lithuanian Karaite or Karaim are the smallest ethnic historical community in Vilnius, with just 150 or so remaining members of a people who settled in Lithuania in the 14th century. The Karaite are a Jewish sect who can be traced back to Mesopotamia (modern day Iraq) who adhere to the Old Testament and the Decalogue, but dont accept the Talmud. The Lithuanian Karaite were originally Tatars living on the Black Sea, almost certainly Muslim and who were converted to the Karaite faith in the 13th century. Enigmatic and as yet not properly understood, the Lithuanian Karaite, who number less than 500 nationwide, are on the edge of extinction. During the Soviet occupation, their Moorish-looking kenesa, built in 1922, was closed and made into a warehouse. Like the countrys other remaining kenesa in Trakai, the building is almost always locked. Literat Gatv C-2/3, Literat. Inspired by Aidas
Marnass poem Literat Gatv about a wistful young man drinking and smoking with his friends on the street of the same name, the highly recommended permanent outdoor gallery on Literat is dedicated to writers past and present whove all left their mark on the city. Comprised of small, mixed-media prints, drawings and paintings celebrating everyone from Jonas Mekas to Czesaw Miosz to Romain Gary, the gallery, all the work of local artists, grew from humble beginnings in 2008 and now features just over 100 superb pieces. J
Dawn Gate (Auros Vartai) C-5, Auros Vart 12, tel.
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what to see
Parks & Gardens
Kaln Parkas D-1. Covering some 25 hectares immediately northeast of Old Town at the confluence of the Neris and Vilnia, Kaln Parkas (Hill Park) is a popular retreat for walks and, during the summer, concerts on the parks Soviet-era outdoor stage. Also home to the Hill of Three Crosses (see Places of interest), the area the park now occupies is shrouded in a number of contentious mysteries. The so-called Gedimino Kapo Kalnas (Gediminas Grave Hill) for example, one of the parks four hills and now a spiritual gathering ground for many followers of the countrys pagan Romuva organisation, is supposedly the site where the founder of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Grand Duke Gediminas (ca. 1275-1341) is buried. No such evidence exists to support the claim however.
Planetarium (Planetariumas) H-3, Konstitucijos 12a, tel. (+370) 5 272 41 48, www.planetarium.lt. A classic 60s sci-fi adventure of the old school, Vilnius dilapidated but charming Planetarium is available for pre-arranged tours of 15 people or more (smaller groups can no doubt pay a little bit extra to gain access). Featuring a galaxy of projectors aimed at the inside of the buildings dome, shows include the fabulously named Venture into Space and Stars and Music. Find the entrance on nipiki, immediately south of Konstitucijos. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:30 - 15:30, Sat 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Also by appointment. Admission 10/7Lt.
aikt 3/8. The official residence of the President of Lithuania, the Presidential Palace started out life in the 14th century as a much smaller structure built at the behest of the citys first Bishop, Andrzej Jastrzbiec (?-1398). Gaining its late Classical appearance much later, the building remained the home of the cream of the citys Catholic clergy until the 1795 Partition when it became the residential address of Vilnius tsarist governors. Many illustrious figures have spent a night in the building over the centuries, among them Tsar Alexander I, Napoleon Bonaparte and local boy, the some-time dictator, military giant and Polish national hero Jzef Pisudski (18671935) to name but a few. After independence in 1990 the building served several purposes until assuming its current role in 1997. The presidential flag can be seen flying over the building when the President is in residence or in the city. Changing of the Guard takes place on Sundays at 12:00. Q Free tours of the Presidential Palace take place on Fridays and Saturdays. Tours are limited to 25 people and are currently in Lithuanian only. For more information, see www.president. lt or call tel. (+370) 5 266 40 25. J (+370) 5 262 09 81, www.ldm.lt. Housed in the former palace of the noble Radvila family, whose 165 portraits are on display in one of the halls. Other exhibits include foreign fine art from the 16th century to the present day. QOpen 11:00 - 17:30, Sun 12:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/3Lt. J
Presidential Palace (Prezidentra) C-2, S. Daukanto
Radvila Palace (Radvil Rmai) B-2, Vilniaus 22, tel.
Sereikiki Parkas
Sereikiki Parkas D-2. Nestled inside a loop of the Vilnia river just east of Old Town, this immensely popular place for walks at any time of year was once the site of the citys late 18th-century botanical gardens. Redesigned and renamed the Youth Park after WWII, the park now boasts tennis courts and a funfair and is also the venue for numerous outdoor craft and folk festivals every summer. Vingio Parkas F-4. Situated to the west of the city along the meandering Neris river, this wooded park covering 160 hectares of pine woods was famed as far back as the 16th century. Its believed that Alexander I was at a ball here when he received news of Napoleons invasion in 1812, an event mentioned in Tolstoys War and Peace. The park is more famous these days as the setting for rock concerts, firework displays, jogging and the launching of hot-air balloons during balmy summer days.
C-4, Saviiaus 11, tel. (+370) 5 262 24 51. Although more famous for his painting, Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis (1875-1911) has quite a reputation as a composer. This is the house in which the great man lived for a short time in a small room that can be visited. The rest of the building, which during iurlionis time was both a family house and a shop, features reproductions of his paintings and a small concert space which stages musical productions almost every Wednesday evening. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. J
M. K. iurlionis House (M. K. iurlionio Namai)
Seimas (Parliament) G-3, Gedimino 53, tel. (+370) 5 239 62 02. The word Seimas refers to the Lithuanian parliament and can be traced linguistically to the Polish word sejm, meaning a gathering or assembly. With its origins in the second half of the 15th century, the contemporary Seimas is based on the First Seimas, which convened in Kaunas in 1922-1923. The work of architect brothers Algimantas and Vytautas Nasvytis, todays Seimas building dates from 1982 and is unremarkable on the outside with the exception of the remains of the barricades built to defend the self-proclaimed independent Lithuanian Supreme Council building after Soviet forces tried to reinstate a Moscow-backed government with the storming of the Television Tower and other buildings in the early hours of January 13, 1991. Located on the western side of the building, the barricades are protected by huge sheets of glass but are clearly visible and retain the original political graffiti of the time. A small exhibition space has been added which will eventually hold public exhibitions related to the struggle for independence. Also find a memorial to the people of Chechnya and the diminutive Chapel of the Virgin Mary, dedicated to the people of Lithuania who gave their lives to free the country from the USSR in 1991. Guided tours of the Seimas run daily during the week, and include details of the events of 1991 as well as a look at some of the interiors more interesting features including Kazys Morknas extraordinary stained glass windows. Tours must be booked two weeks in advance, and are in Lithuanian unless otherwise requested. Curiously, the word seimas is also used to describe storks, Lithuanias unofficial national bird, when they gather for winter migration. vilnius.inyourpocket.com
what to see
Stebuklas C-2, Arkikatedros Square. About halfway
between the Cathedral and the bell tower is the stebuklas, or miracle. Essentially a piece of stone believed to perform wonders and with the word stebuklas written on it, the site marks the spot where one end of the human chain of some two million protesting Lithuanians, Latvians and Estonians stretching the 650km or so to Tallinn was formed on August 23, 1989. A symbol of freedom and hope, stand on the miracle, turn a complete clockwise circle and make a wish. J
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Monuments
Frank Zappa A-3, K. Kalinausko 1. Hot Rats! Deceased
Television Tower (Televizijos Boktas) Sausio 13-osios 10, tel. (+370) 5 252 53 33, www.lrtc.net. The tallest building in Lithuania, the 326m Television Tower was built from reinforced concrete and steel between 1974 and 1980 to a design by V. Obydovas and K. Balnas. On January 13, 1991 as the disintegration of the USSR reached a frenzied pace and Moscow attempted to retake control of the Lithuanian media, Soviet tanks surrounded it in an assault that killed 13 unarmed civilians. The tower has since become a potent Lithuanian symbol. Around it are a few monuments and photographs of those who lost their lives and whose names the nearby streets are now called in honour of. Inside at ground level is the small Sausio 13-osios Ekspozicija (January 13th Exhibition) exhibition commemorating the brutal events including a copy of the original Soviet military attack plan, weapons used to beat protesters and some disturbing photographs. The exhibition is free, although the 40-second ride in the lift to visit the combined 270m restaurant and viewing station isnt. The ticket office also sells several Television Tower souvenirs. A taxi from Old Town costs somewhere in the region of 20Lt. Alternatively, take trolleybus N1, 3, 7 or 16 to the Televizijos Boktas stop. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Last entrance 21:00. Admission 21Lt. Town Hall (Rotu) C-4, Didioji 31, tel. (+370) 5 261 80 07, www.vilniausrotuse.lt. First mentioned in 1503, the Town Hall most likely dates from the 15th century, while the present Classical structure was built at the end of the 18th century. In 1810 the governor general ordered that the Town Hall housed a theatre, which gave performances on and off until 1924. Since then its interior has been a museum. Until the reestablishment of independence in 1991, it served as the Lithuanian Art Museum. Today its the Artists Palace where you can see gallery art. J Vilnius University (Vilniaus Universitetas) C-2/3, Universiteto 3, tel. (+370) 5 268 72 98, www.vu.lt. Established in 1579 and one of the oldest universities in Eastern Europe, the splendid ensemble that makes up Vilnius Universitys main campus buildings embraces just about every major architectural style of the last 400 years. Originally belonging to the Church, the University became a secular seat of learning in 1773 and has remained so ever since. Closed for much of the 19th and the first 18 years of the 20th century, famous past students whove studied here include the Polish Romantic poets Adam Mickiewicz and Juliusz Sowacki, the Lithuanian author and historian Simonas Daukantas (see him on any 100Lt note) and the Lithuania-born Polish Nobel Prize-winning author Czesaw Miosz. As well as housing the oldest library in the country, Vilnius University is also famed for its lovely courtyards, of which depending on your definition of what a courtyard is, there are either 12 or 13. The University itself claims 13, although by rights the correct number should be 12 as one of them only has three walls, the fourth having been destroyed during construction work on the neighbouring Presidential Palace. The ensemble was fully restored in 1979 and is well worth investigating. A map can be found at Universiteto 7 explaining where everything is. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. Admission 5/1Lt. J vilnius.inyourpocket.com
rock and roll pervert, part-time classical composer and father of Moon Unit has had his head immortalised in brass and stuck on a stainless steel pole in a lacklustre courtyard just west of Old Town. Commissioned by a student and created by the octogenarian sculptor Konstantinas Bogdanas (b. 1926) who once churned out Lenins and other noteworthy comrades for the bureaucrats in Moscow, the statue is notable as being the first monument of the man to be erected anywhere in the world. If youre now wondering what the connection between Lithuania and Frank Zappa is, dont. There isnt one. J
Trakai
First mentioned in 1337 by the Teutonic Knights, and one of Lithuanias former medieval capitals, despite being home to just 5,400 souls modern-day Trakai provides boundless cultural and pastoral experiences for scores of urbanites of both local and foreign persuasion, year round. Crowned by a magnificent Gothic castle (see below), Trakai (from the Lithuanian word trakas, or glade) is equally well known for its many inhabitants both past and present, among them Lithuanians, Jews, Poles (who still make up a small percentage of the population and who know the town as Troki), Russians, Tatars and the Lithuanian Karaite, an intriguing, Turkic-speaking offshoot of the larger Judaic Karaite movement who arrived in the town from the Crimea at the end of the 14th century and who are currently teetering on the border of extinction. Just 28km west of Vilnius and an hour or so by car from Kaunas, Trakai is both a tempting daytrip as well as a destination worthy of further attention thanks to it being located inside the countrys smallest national park.
Castle & Trakai History Museum (Trak Pilis ir Trak Istorijos Muziejus) Trakai Castle, tel.
(+370) 5 285 39 46, www.trakaimuziejus.lt. More like playing a giant game of snakes and ladders designed by MC Escher than an enriching cultural experience, the Trakai History Museum is spread around the Castle and linked via a baffling array of higgledy-piggledy wooden steps and dark, plunging spiral staircases. The two main collections are to be found inside the western casemates (casements) and the Ducal Palace, the former and least interesting made up of 19th-century European glassware, ivory walking stick handles and the like and the latter a collection of items dug up in the vicinity of the Castle, a huge collection of coins, a small exhibition dedicated to the Karaite and a few life-size models of medieval gentlemen with enormous handlebar moustaches. Some explanations are in English, but much remains in Lithuanian, Russian and German only. More than worth it for a look around the Castle if nothing else. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6Lt.
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what to see
Grand Duke Gediminas C-2, Arkikatedros Square.
Unveiled in September 1996, the monument to Gediminas (1275-1341), who famously founded Vilnius in 1323 and who was also Grand Duke of Lithuania from 1316 until his death, stands more or less on the spot where the howling iron wolf that inspired the moving of the countrys capital from Trakai allegedly appeared in his dream. Strangely, the aforementioned beast is represented in V. Kaubas creation not in metal as one would expect, but in stone. J
Cemeteries
Antakalnis Cemetery (Antakalnio Kapins) J/K-2,
Lazdyn Pelda C-5, Karmelit & Arkli. Lazdyn Pelda (Hazelnut Owl) was the collective pen name of two sisters, Sofija Ivanauskait-Pibiliauskien (1867-1926) and Marija Ivanauskait-Lastauskien (1872-1957). Born into a family of Polish-speaking nobility in the village of Paragiai in northeast Lithuania, their stories, often full of political observation, were written in Polish by Marija and then translated into Lithuanian by her Sofija. The slightly haunting, Egyptian style sculpture made in their likeness and unveiled in 1995 is officially known as Seserys (The Sisters) and is the work of the sculptor Dalia Matulait and architects Rimantas Buivydas and Juras Pankeviius. J Mindaugas C-1, Arsenalo 1. Taking pride of place outside the National Museum since July 6, 2003, the 750th anniversary of the crowning of the countrys one and only king in 1253, Mindaugas (1200-1263), whos generally considered to be the founder of the Lithuanian state, was a bit of a character to say the least. Clumsy in his personal affairs and switching from paganism to Catholicism and back to paganism to suit his needs, Mindaugas was eventually assassinated by his nephew and served as little more than a footnote in Lithuanian history until he was resurrected by the national revival movement of the late 19th century. R. Midvikis granite likeness of the man sees him sitting on his sostas (throne), from which the Lithuanian language gets its word for capital, sostin, literally the place where the throne is. J
Kari Kap 11, tel. (+370) 5 234 05 87. Thought to have begun life as a cemetery way back in 1809, the so-called Soldiers Cemetery (Kari Kapins) can be found in the forested area of Antakalnis a couple of kilometres or so from Old Town. The Polish soldiers graveyard, distinguished by undulating rows of identical headstones, lies to the left of the entrance. Nearby stands a small collection of Tartar graves complete with Islamic symbols. To the left and deeper into the cemetery, large Soviet soldiers guard the (no-longer burning) eternal flame. To the soldiers right is the ghastly Soviet memorial encasing the graves of Soviet Lithuanias dignitaries. Take a hike up the stairs on your left to reach the red star graves of Soviet soldiers who died fighting Lithuanian partisans. Perhaps most poignant are the graves of the border guards murdered by the Soviets at Medininkai on July 31, 1991 and the civilians killed by Soviet paratroopers during the January 1991 demonstrations, all guarded by a stunning Piet.
Bernardine Cemetery (Bernardin Kapins) J-4, virgdyno 3, tel. (+370) 5 216 20 64. Founded in 1810 by Bernardine monks, the cemetery is perhaps the most attractive and romantic cemetery in Vilnius. Located over a little less than four hectares on a rolling hill running down to the Vilnia river, the cemetery fell into disrepair soon after WWII before being finally shut in 1970. Independence has seen it flourish with the assistance of the Lithuanian and Polish governments, although much work remains to be done. Of particular interest are the columbaria, once used for holding urns full of ashes and now slowly crumbling away. Among the eminent university professors, scientists and painters buried here find a few surprises including Geleda Dzerzhinskaja (1849-1896), whose claim to fame was giving birth to the founder of the forerunner of the KGB, Felix Dzerzhinsky (Feliksas Dzerinskis). Karaite & Tatar Cemetery (Karaim ir Totori Kapins) irni. Following the destruction in the mid-1960s
strange career as an oversized egg cup, the tall pillar in the heart of Vilnius breakaway republic Uupis (where every dog has the right to be a dog) finally gave birth to a long awaited angel on April 1, 2002, the official independence day of the wacky district. After a long and sometimes tedious unveiling ceremony, the covers were finally lifted, and in a big burst of billowing balloons the surprisingly beautiful figure of an angel was revealed, playing a trumpet and generally being rather awesome. The work of the Lithuanian sculptor R. Viliauskas, find it at the junction of Uupio and Maln. J
Uupis Angel D-3, Uupio. After a long and singularly
emait A-1, Gedimino 27-29. Born into an impoverished Polish-speaking family with aristocratic roots and affectations, as a child the Lithuanian novelist emait (real name Julija Beniueviit-ymantien, 1845-1921) was forbidden to speak Lithuanian, at the time the language of the common people. Inquisitive and defiant, the young emait made friends with local serfs and was soon fluent in her mother tongue, the language in which she was eventually to write in. Self taught and unusually political for a woman at the time, emaits sombre tales concentrate on issues surrounding the miseries of peasant life and family squabbles, all written in a vernacular style as spoken by rural Lithuanian-speakers of the time. Her statue, the work of the architect brothers Algimantas and Vytautas Nasvytis who are also responsible for the interior of the Neringa restaurant and the Seimas among other things, was unveiled somewhat strangely at the height of the Cold War in 1970. Vilnius In Your Pocket
of the original cemetery in Lukiks, the former traditional home of the citys Karaite and Tatar communities, a new cemetery was opened in a remote area in the southern part of Vilnius close to the airport. Among the graves, which are marked in an extraordinary mixture of Hebrew (Karaite) and Arabic (Tatar), is that of the Karaite scientist, historian and head of the Lithuanian and Polish Karaite communities Chadi Seraja Chan apalas (Pol. Hadi Seraja Chan Szapsza, 18731961). The cemetery is still in use, but is generally closed to visitors. According to tradition, women are forbidden from visiting. Find it on the stretch of irni to the east of the road to the airport, before the ski slopes on the north side.
Rasos Cemetery (Ras Kapins) I/J-5, Ras/ Sukilli, tel. (+370) 5 265 65 63. Founded in 1801 and the final resting place of many of the countrys social elite, this marvellous cemetery stretched over a large area divided by a main road is still in use today, providing an extraordinary snapshot of the cultural history of the city. Hidden away here find the artist and composer Mikalojus Konstantinas iurlionis (1875-1911), the author and publicist Jonas Basanaviius (1851-1927), whose grave is inscribed with a peculiar, 19thcentury version of Lithuanian, and the heart of Marshall Jzef Pisudski (1867-1935), the local-born Polish general who played a key role in re-establishing Polish independence in 1918 as well as the countrys subsequent annexation of Vilnius in 1920. Buried with his mother under a black granite slab and surrounded by the graves of Polish soldiers, the rest of him lies in Polands most sacred burial place under Krakws Wawel Cathedral. vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Jewish vilnius
For a complete guide to Jewish Vilnius see the website at vilnius.inyourpocket.com.
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Jewish tours
Professional guides lead tours in English and Hebrew through the Baltics and Belarus. Yulik Gurvitch Tel. (+370) 699 907 09 Ilya Lempertas Tel. (+370) 687 132 85 Regina Kopilevich Tel. (+370) 699 054 56 Justina Petrauskait Tel. (+370) 699 540 64
Jewish life
(+370) 5 215 03 88. This combined community centre and synagogue is engaged in numerous religious projects aimed at enlightening those who need enlightening and restoring the spirit and sensibilities of religious Jewish life. Led by the Boston-born Rabbi Sholom Ber Krinsky, the only truly resident rabbi in Lithuania over the last decade and a half, Chabad is especially known for its festive Jewish holiday celebrations, at which everybody is welcome. It also supplies visitors with kosher food and needed religious items and services. QOpen 09:30 - 15:30. Closed Fri, Sat, Sun.
Chabad Lubavitch Centre (Chabad Lubavitch yd Religin Bendruomen) H-5, altini 12, tel.
Statues & Memorials
Choral Synagogue (Choralin Sinagoga) H-4,

Pylimo 39, tel. (+370) 5 261 25 23. Built in a Moorish style in 1903, this is the only one out of over 100 prewar Jewish prayer houses that still functions. The term Choral Synagogue relates to the inclusion of a choir section, a feature considered by some a revolutionary form of modernisation and assimilation at the time it was built. Rabbi Chaim Burstein, who is here part of each month, officiates. Service twice daily throughout the year. Q Services 08:30, 19:30. J
Jewish Community of Lithuania (Lietuvos yd Bendruomen) A-2, Pylimo 4, tel. (+370) 5 261 30
03, www.litjews.org. This is the countrys primary address for its living Jewish people, providing a wide range of cultural, communal and social services from kindergarten through to senior level. Led by the redoubtable Dr. Shimon Alperovich (Simonas Alperaviius), legendary for standing up for Jewish rights however and whenever the community comes under challenge. Along with the two functioning houses of worship, this is where you can meet the genuine Jewish locals. Keep up to date by picking up a copy here of the countrys only Jewish newspaper, Jerusalem of Lithuania, available in English, Yiddish, Lithuanian and Russian. The building also houses a youth club, Jewish Student Union, Union of Former Ghetto and Concentration Camp Inmates and the Union of WWII Jewish Veterans. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Jewish Cemetery (yd Kapins) E-1, Sudervs Kelias 28. By Soviet order, both old Jewish cemeteries were destroyed after the war. With the help of foreign diplomacy only a few graves of famous people such as the Gaon of Vilna were moved here in a concession to the community. This new Jewish cemetery was actually opened just before the war and nowadays, especially on Sundays, is a place where Jewish people visit the graves of their beloved and you can meet interesting locals. The Gaons grave attracts pious visitors from many countries who leave notes of supplication by the graveside. To the left of the entrance is a small office where maps of the cemetery can be obtained if its open. Gravestones are covered in the writing of many languages including Yiddish, Lithuanian, Russian, Polish, English. To get there by public transport from the centre, take bus N73 from the Lukiks stop or N43 from the station. Map of the Ghetto (Geto emlapis) B-5, Rdnink
18. On the site of the former gate to the larger of Vilnius two ghettos, find a map showing the size and positioning of the area where the citys Jewish population were kept before liquidation commenced. J
Paneriai
Paneriai Memorial Museum (Paneri Memorialinis Muziejus) Agrast 17, tel. (+370)
680 812 78. Between July 1941, and August 1944, approximately 100,000 people of whom over half were Jewish were murdered at this site by the Nazis and a hotpotch of willing Lithuanians from such sinister organisations as the Ypatingasis Brys (Vilnius Special Squad). A traumatic but necessary part of any Jewish-related visit to Lithuania, find several monuments and the remains of the pits where the victims were burned. The typical Soviet-era museum inside a small building on the murder site features exhibits explained in a baffling and irregular mix of languages including everything from stomach-churning photography to the clothing worn by a man whose job it was to sift the remains of the charred bodies for gold. Not recommended for children. Paneriai (Ponar to the Jews, Ponary to the Poles) is about 8km southwest of Old Town. Catch a Trakai- or Kaunas-bound train, get off at Paneriai and turn right on leaving the station. The site is at the very end of the road. To get there by car, drive out on Savanori in the direction of Kaunas until you reach the E28 highway, peel off here and look for the pitifully few signs put up in order to help you get there. For a chilling, eye-witness account of the events that took place here, read Kazimierz Sakowiczs extraordinary book Ponary Diary, 1941-1943, published by Yale. Q Museum open 09:00 - 17:00. Fri, Sat by appointment. Admission free.
Museums
Pamnkalnio 12, tel. (+370) 5 262 07 30. The smallest but most important and best known component of the three addresses that collectively comprise the citys Vilna Gaon Jewish State Museum, the museum (also known as the Green House) has been led for many years by the indomitable champion of Holocaust truth-telling, Rachel Kostanian. One of its founders, Dr Rachel Margolis, now in her late 80s, has been in the news for several years as one of the Jewish anti-Nazi partisan veterans wanted for questioning by Lithuanian prosecutors. Unable to return to Lithuania from Israel, her cause has been taken up by US congressmen, members of the British House of Lords and others internationally. The museum is famous for its unvarnished, accurate account of the Holocaust in Lithuania and the massive local involvement in the actual killing, although a recent revamp has seen some of the exhibits that can make ethnic Lithuanians a little uncomfortable about their role in the Holocaust removed. Find it at the top of a steep driveway, invisible to anyone walking along on the street below. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat. Open from Sept. Admission 5/2Lt.
Holocaust Museum (Holokausto Muziejus) H-4,
Culture calls
getting around
Public transport
You havent really experienced Vilnius until youve run the gauntlet of its public transport system, made up of city and private buses, minibuses and trolleybuses. Most routes run from 05:00 until around 23:00 or a little later and thanks to the current economic crisis there are no night buses operating in Vilnius (see Taxis). Single tickets for regular city buses and trolleybuses can be purchased from any Lietuvos Spauda kiosk or direct from the driver for a little more. A single ticket is valid for any one journey of any distance over any period of time on any singular vehicle. Almost without exception, no public transport runs in Old Town. Travelling by public transport, especially during rush hour, is not for the faint hearted. Expect to be poked, squeezed and trod on. It goes without saying that pickpockets work several routes around the city. As of July 15, 2010, entrance to all city buses and trolleybuses is only allowed via the front door and vice-versa.
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Public transport tickets

Bus Trolleybus Both Single ticket 2Lt* 2Lt* n/a Mon-Fri 75Lt 75Lt 100Lt Monthly pass Mon-Sun 85Lt 85Lt 110Lt Monthly pass Fine for no ticket 60-100Lt As well as single-journey tickets, tickets valid for 24 hours (13Lt), 72 hours (23Lt) and 240 hours (46Lt), that can be used on all city buses and trolleybuses, can be bought from the small kiosk just to the left of the (B-6) train station close to the trolleybus stop as well as inside the little (B-1) Klient Informacinis Centras opposite the Novotel at Gedimino 9a. A more convenient ticket system for people staying in Vilnius for extended periods is the e-bilietas. Available for a onetime payment of 8Lt, e-bilietas ticket prices are the same as for ordinary tickets. Monthly tickets can be bought in any Lietuvos Spauda kiosk showing the e-bilietas logo. One-day, three-day and 10-day tickets can be bought from the small kiosk (above) or online at www.transportobilietas.lt, which was at the time of going to press sadly in Lithuanian only. * From kiosks. Tickets from the driver cost 2.50Lt.
Buses Most buses in Vilnius are owned and operated by the city, with a few private buses offering a ride for the same price as a city bus if you bought your ticket from a kiosk (2Lt). For the uninitiated, recognising which is a private and which is a city bus isnt easy. As a rule, city buses tend to be blue and yellow, but not always. Private buses are a little faster as they dont have to pull in at every stop along the route. Tickets for private buses are only available on board, and are sold by a conductor who makes a tour of the vehicle every few stops. If riding on a city bus, single tickets need to be validated in the appropriate device. Buy a ticket from the driver if you dont already have one for 2.50Lt. Minibuses The minibus, or marrutiniai taksi to give it its correct name (you may also hear one referred to as a Latvija), is a privately-owned phenomenon as favoured in many former Soviet republics. Often but not always bright yellow, minibuses follow similar routes to buses and trolleybuses, are much faster, and accordingly cost a little more to use (currently 3Lt). They have no official stops, so in order to stop one you need to stand by the side of the road and get its attention by waving your arm. Likewise, you need to tell the driver when you want to get out again. When crowded, hand your payment via other passengers to the driver.
Trolleybuses Many of them done up like a French tarts
boudoir, Vilnius upside-down railway keeps a large part of the citys population on the move. Trolleybuses are often policed by the sort of sweet old ladies usually found staffing counters in English charity shops, although this lot are trained in the martial arts, and can effortlessly remove ticketless little boys from vehicles by their ears. Ticket etiquette, should you prefer to buy one rather than pay a fine or argue with an elderly spinster, is the same as for city buses.
Trains
Train Station (Geleinkelio Stotis) B-6, Geleinkelio

16, tel. (+370) 5 233 00 88, www.litrail.lt. JA
Bus Station (Autobus Stotis) B-6, Sod 22, tel. 1661, www.toks.lt. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00. JA
Long-distance buses Taxis
International bus schedule

From Vilnius Dep. Arr. 14:30 07:00 14:30 18:20 14:30 05:45 09:00 12:30 06:40 10:30 12:30 16:20 14:30 08:45 06:30 10:50 12:30 17:00 14:15 18:15 18:30 22:25 21:00 17:00 14:30 21:00 17:00 22:00 City BERLIN1, 4, 6 COLOGNE1, 4, 6 1, 4, 6 LONDON3,5,7 MINSK MINSK MINSK 4 PRAGUE6 (10:30 Riga Airport) RIGA RIGA RIGA RIGA(17:30 Riga Airport) (00:55 Riga Airport) RIGA(02:25 02:00 01:05 Riga Airport)
1, 4, 6 1, 4, 6
To Vilnius Dep. Arr. 20:30 14:50 09:30 14:50 20:30 14:50 16:00 20:10 14:00 18:00 18:40 22:30 19:00 14:50 07:00 10:55 08:30 12:40 12:30 17:00 18:00 22:15 06:20 09:50 14:50 06:20 09:50 06:20 19:00 08:00 21:00 12:15 19:30
07:20 20:00 06:30 14:05 07:00
ROME1 1, 4, 6 STUTTGART1, 4, 6 TALLINN 6 VIENNA2

6 (06:30 Warsaw Airport) (20:00 Warsaw Airport)
Depending on such variables as time of day, type of car, how you ordered it and your horoscope sign, be prepared to pay anything from 10-25Lt for a ride within Old Town. Taxis are considerably cheaper if called in advance rather than grabbed in the street, although youre essentially at the mercy of the driver once youve shut the door. Drunken foreigners whove argued with disreputable drivers in the past have been on occasion punched in the face and even attacked with a knife, although we should stress that the great majority of Lithuanian taxi drivers are honest, hard working people like everybody else. The least you can do is make sure the meter is running before you set off. Always ensure that your hotel hasnt got a deal with a taxi company, a service that can cost up to three times the going rate. Company Ekipaas Martono Taksi Mersera Tel. (+370) 5 239 55 39 (+370) 5 240 00 04 (+370) 5 278 88 88 Rate/km* 1.25Lt 1.50Lt 1.80Lt/km
WARSAW
More information at www.eurolines.lt. Days of the week (1=Monday). Valid until Apr 1, 2011.
* Prices listed are for standard daytime/evening journeys
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getting around
Eurolines Lux Express B-6, Sod 20b-1, tel. (+370) 5 215 13 77, www.luxexpress.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. J
Car rental
Train schedule
From Vilnius Dep. Arr. 20:00* 05:53 05:20 06:48 08:22 10:08 12:05 13:35 15:06 16:52 17:171 18:47 18:18 19:27 19:30 21:09 01:15* 08:33 04:38 10:31 13:00 01:15* 05:051 05:301 06:20 07:20 08:35 10:20 11:15 12:00 13:50 14:35 16:30 16:35 17:25 17:40 18:30 19:30 20:40 06:45 09:48 17:30 06:40 14:16 17:00 17:47 20:00* 22:38* 17:00 17:47 22:38* 15:48 18:18 06:45 09:48 17:30 04:33 05:241 06:08 07:40 10:25 12:34 13:30 15:35 17:55 20:25 12:00 12:03 18:09 20:27 02:33 06:05 07:09 07:27 08:37 10:15 11:28 12:28 13:15 14:59 16:15 17:30 18:14 18:28 19:03 20:10 20:40 22:075 11:15 14:37 22:05 10:40 18:50 21:40 22:14 00:30 02:58 08:58 09:27 15:21 11:10 09:00 09:16 12:21 20:03 05:08 05:59 06:43 08:15 11:01 13:09 14:06 16:10 18:31 21:00 20:30 City GOMEL IGNALINA IGNALINA IGNALINA IGNALINA IGNALINA IGNALINA IGNALINA KALININGRAD KALININGRAD KALININGRAD KALININGRAD KALININGRAD KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KAUNAS KLAIPDA KLAIPDA KLAIPDA MINSK MINSK MINSK MINSK MINSK MINSK MOSCOW MOSCOW MOSCOW ST. PETERSBURG ST. PETERSBURG IAULIAI IAULIAI IAULIAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI TRAKAI WARSAW To Vilnius Dep. Arr. 14:18* 00:55 04:41 06:22 08:08 09:15 08:50 10:20 11:13 12:51 15:23 17:07 18:50 20:35 19:531 21:16 09:50** 15:31 11:50 17:30 14:01* 19:40 * 22:21 16:39 17:56 23:42 04:531 05:39 06:251 07:30 08:12 09:11 11:00 12:00 13:40 15:30 16:38 17:50 18:16* 18:50 19:40 20:15 21:15 06:25 11:50 17:10 03:33 05:18 06:30 18:14 19:47* 13:54 18:55 19:26 18:15* 20:55 08:34 13:51 19:19 05:30 06:121 07:11 08:30 13:24 14:20 16:38 18:50 21:30 07:25 06:29 07:24 07:37 09:15 09:24 10:40 12:45 13:12 15:14 16:42 17:53 19:02 19:40 20:35 20:52 21:41 22:30 11:10 16:26 21:55 08:00 10:14 11:08 22:05 00:55 04:21 08:00 10:14 12:43 09:15 11:10 16:26 21:55 06:08 06:50 07:49 09:08 14:02 14:58 17:16 19:28 22:08 17:53
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Budget Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 67 08, www.budget.lt. Q Open 24hrs. Rimas Tel. (+370) 698 216 62. Q Open 24hrs. Sixt Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 239 56 36, www.sixt.lt. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Avis Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 93 16, www.avis.lt. Also at Laisvs 3. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Airport
Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis Vilniaus Oro Uostas) Rodnios Kelias 2, tel. (+370) 5 230
66 66, www.vno.lt. Vilnius International Airport, situated approximately 5km south of the city centre, is small and relatively easy to use. A restaurant and bar can be found above the main entrance for fond farewells and devilishly expensive cognac. A limited hotchpotch of Duty Free shops and cafs are located the other side of customs control. Free wireless internet is available throughout the airport. To get there by bus (see Public transport for information on tickets), take N2 from Lukiki Aikt or N1 from the train station, or use the shuttle train service that departs from the train station every hour or so between 07:00 and 20:00. Buy a ticket on board for just 2.50Lt. A taxi from Old Town currently costs around 50Lt using a hotel-booked firm, although you can pay considerably less if you can get a friendly local to order you one from a cheaper company. By calling the right company in advance (try tel. (+370) 5 266 66 66) a recent visitor to the city managed to make the trip for just 18Lt.
Aeroservisas G-3, J. Jasinskio 16g, tel. (+370) 5 252 65 88/(+370) 655 481 21, fax (+370) 5 252 65 89, info@aeroservisas.lt, www.airtaxi.lt. Air taxi, VIP services and sightseeing flights. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Air taxi
Trains to Warsaw
Although there are two daily flights between Vilnius and Warsaw, which if booked in advance offer an affordable and quick way of travelling between one city and the other, there are other transport options available, most notably the train. According to the official timetable, there are two daily trains between the Lithuanian and Polish capitals, but on closer inspection this proves to be somewhat erroneous. The overnight service turns out to be a bus and the daytime train is actually two trains which meet at the Lithuanian border town of etokai (irritatingly written as etokus on the train departure boards at the train station in Vilnius). Neither the Lithuanian nor the Polish trains have on-board catering facilities and the station at etokai is little more than a cattle shed. At a little under 10 hours to make the journey, you might want to consider taking some food and drink with you. Interestingly, the train travels through a large and somewhat dilapidated gateway as it passes from one country to the other. Right up until the two countries joined the Schengen area in 2007, this gateway came complete with a huge door that was opened by a sombre-looking Polish soldier to allow the train to pass. Find it immediately north of the station at Trakizki.
*Even days of the month, ** Odd days of the month. 1 MonFri, 2 Fri, Sun, 3 Wed, Sun, 4Sat, Sun, 5Mon-Fri, Sun, 6Mon-Sat Valid until April 1, 2011.
getting around
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Airlines
com.
Aer Lingus Tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.aerlingus.
Aeroflot A-2, Pylimo 8/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 41 89, www.aeroflot.ru. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat,
com. Air Baltic A-1, A. Vienuolio 12, tel. 1825, www.airbaltic. com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Austrian Airlines Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 210 50 30, www.austrian.com. Brussels Airlines Rodnios kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 92 98, www.brusselsairlines.com. Czech Airlines G-4, M. Valaniaus 4/9, tel. (+370) 5 215 15 03, www.czechairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Estonian Air Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 93 22, www.estonian-air.com. Finnair Tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.finnair.com/lt. LOT Rodnios Kelias 8, tel. (+370) 5 273 90 00, www. lot.com. Lufthansa Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 92 92, www.lufthansa.com. QOpen 04:30 - 19:30, Fri 04:30 - 17:00. Norwegian Air Shuttle Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 232 93 22, www.norwegian.no. SAS Rodnios Kelias 2 (Airport), tel. (+370) 5 230 66 38, www.flysas.com. UTair Rodnios Kelias 8, tel. (+370) 5 232 93 22, www.utair.ru.
Aerosvit Tel. (+370) 5 252 50 10, www.aerosvit.
Sun. J
41 54, www.lithuaniantours.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Senamiesio Gidas C-5, Auros Vart 7, tel. (+370) 5 261 55 58, www.vilniuscitytour.com. QOpen 09:30 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 15:00. JA Sofa Travel B-4, Vokiei 9, tel. (+370) 5 246 16 50, www.sofatravel.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 16:00. Closed Sun. JA The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind D-3, Uupio 23-9, tel. (+370) 616 200 07, www.nevermind.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. JA Visit Lithuania B-2, L. Stuokos Guceviiaus 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 52 41, www.visitlithuania.net. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
Local bus schedule

Birtonas 07:10, 09:30, 10:40, 12:35, 13:30, 14:40, 16:10, 18:10. Druskininkai 07:20, 08:40, 10:00, 12:30, 14:20, 15:40, 17:55, 20:30. Kaunas 05:40, 06:20, 06:35, 07:00, 07:15, 07:40, 08:10, 08:20, 09:00, 09:20, 09:30, 09:45, 09:55, 10:45, 11:05, 11:45, 12:45, 13:20, 13:45, 14:00, 15:40, 15:50, 16:15, 16:45, 17:00, 17:15, 19:20, 19:45, 21:10. Klaipda 06:00, 06:35, 07:00, 07:50, 08:50, 11:35, 11:55, 12:40, 14:50, 16:00, 16:45, 17:30, 18:30. Palanga 08:50, 11:00, 11:55, 13:20, 14:50, 16:45, 18:30. Panevys 06:10, 06:30, 07:05, 07:50, 08:25, 09:50, 10:35, 11:10, 11:30, 12:00, 12:50, 13:30, 14:15, 14:50, 15:10, 15:20, 15:50, 16:30, 17:00, 17:20, 17:40, 18:05, 18:355,7, 19:20, 19:307, 20:157. iauliai 06:30, 07:50, 09:50, 11:00, 11:10, 12:00, 13:00, 14:15, 15:20, 16:05, 16:25, 17:40, 18:15, 18:25, 19:20. Trakai 07:10, 08:20, 09:15, 10:55 1-6, 12:10, 13:00, 14:00, 15:20, 17:00, 18:10, 18:45 1,2,3,4,5,7, 20:00. Days of the week (1=Monday). Valid until April 1, 2011. Not all services listed. For a complete schedule see autobusubilietai.lt
Travel agencies
Sat, Sun. A
Amber Tours H-2, Kalvarij 11-9, tel. (+370) 5 275 69 85, www.ambertours.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Baltic Tours Vilnius G-3, J. Tumo-Vaiganto 9/1, tel. (+370) 5 266 16 16, www.baltictours.lt. QOpen 09:00 Kaleva Travel H-3, Konstitucijos 20, tel. (+370) 5 231 49 59, www.kalevatravel.lt. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00.
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Closed Sat, Sun. A Kelvita B-6, Gli 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 77 51, www.kelvita.lt. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Krantas Travel A-1, A. Vienuolio 6, tel. (+370) 5 231 33 14, www.krantas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Lithuanian Holidays H-2, eimyniki 1a, tel. (+370) 5 263 60 64, www.lithuanianholidays.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lithuanian Tours I-2, eimyniki 18, tel. (+370) 5 272
62
getting around
Flight schedule
To Vilnius CITY Days Dep. Arr. AMSTERDAM (OV) 1234567 09:40 13:00 BRUSSELS (BRU) 12345 12:10 15:40 BRUSSELS (BRU) 7 10:25 13:50 COPENHAGEN (BT) 1 3 4 6 07:40 10:25 COPENHAGEN (BT) 27 19:50 22:35 COPENHAGEN (BT) 5 20:00 22:45 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 123457 07:55 10:25 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 1234567 20:55 23:25 till 12 18 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 6 11:10 13:40 COPENHAGEN (SAS) 123457 12:15 14:45 DUBLIN (EI) 2 06:30 11:30 DUBLIN (EI) 4 06:25 11:30 DUBLIN (EI) 12 26 03 26 6 15:15 20:25 DUBLIN (EI) 01 05 03 23 3 15:15 20:25 FRANKFURT/MAIN (LH) 6 10:45 13:45 FRANKFURT/MAIN (LH) 123457 10:50 13:50 FRANKFURT/MAIN (LH) HELSINKI Vantaa (AY) 156 09:35 10:00 HELSINKI Vantaa (AY) 567 16:15 17:30 HELSINKI Vantaa (AY) 234 09:35 10:50 HELSINKI Vantaa (AY) 1234 16:15 17:30 KIEV Borispol (VV) 2 3 6 15:00 16:26 KIEV Borispol (VV) 1457 13:25 14:55 KIEV Borispol (VV) 123456 22:15 23:40 11 04 02 27 KIEV Borispol (VV) KIEV Borispol (VV) 03 03 03 26 MILAN Malpensa (OV) from 12 18 6 10:10 13:40 MOSCOW Vnukovo (UT) 1234567 11:40 12:40 MOSCOW Vnukovo (UT) 1234567 21:05 22:00 MUNICH (BT) from 12 25 6 12:55 16:15 OSLO Gardermoen (DY) 2 10:45 13:35 OSLO Gardermoen (DY) 4 11:00 13:50 OSLO Gardermoen (DY) 6 19:20 22:10 PARIS (BT) 47 14:00 18:05 PARIS (BT) 2 13:45 17:50 1234567 15:05 15:45 PRAGUE (OK) 1234567 11:45 14:20 1234567 09:55 10:50 RIGA (BT) 1234567 06:50 07:45 1234567 16:30 17:25 RIGA (BT) 1 2 3 4 5 67 11:30 12:25 1234567 21:55 22:50 RIGA (BT) 1234567 18:00 18:55 1234567 05:10 06:05 RIGA (BT) 1234567 19:45 20:40 1234567 08:35 09:30 RIGA (BT) 1234567 23:55 00:50 136 10:50 13:10 ROME (BT) 136 14:00 18:25 135 10:50 13:10 ROME (BT) 135 14:00 18:25 123457 18:40 19:05 STOCKHOLM (OV) 123457 19:45 22:05 12345 08:10 09:30 TALLINN (BT) 12345 08:00 09:30 123457 19:30 21:00 TALLINN (BT) from 11 19 123457 19:30 20:50 123457 20:00 21:30 TALLINN (BT) till 11 18 123457 20:00 21:30 1234 08:50 10:20 TALLINN (OV) till 12 16 1234 07:00 08:25 01 10 03 22 1 2 08:50 10:20 TALLINN (OV) 1 2 07:00 08:25 01 12 02 09; 02 23 03 23 3 08:50 10:20 TALLINN (OV) 3 07:00 08:25 01 13 02 17; 03 03 03 24 4 08:50 10:20 TALLINN (OV) 4 07:00 08:25 7 16:10 17:40 TALLINN (OV) 7 14:20 15:45 7 14:15 15:45 TALLINN (OV) till 12 12; 01 16 03 20 7 12:25 13:50 2345 19:20 20:50 TALLINN (OV) till 12 17 2345 17:30 18:55 23 19:20 20:50 TALLINN (OV) 01 11 03 23 23 17:30 18:55 45 19:20 20:50 TALLINN (OV) 01 13 02 18 45 17:30 18:55 03 03 03 24 4 19:20 20:50 TALLINN (OV) 4 17:30 18:55 1234567 13:40 14:35 VIENNA (OS) 1234567 09:55 12:50 1467 06:25 06:30 WARSAW F. Chopin (LO) 1 234567 11:45 14:10 till 12 24 1 234567 14:50 15:15 WARSAW F. Chopin (LO) 3567 22:35 01:00 from 12 27 235 06:25 06:30 WARSAW F.Chopin (LO) 1 2 4 22:35 00:40 Airline codes: AY - Finnair, BT - Air Baltic, BRU - Brussels airlines, DY - Norwegian Air Shuttle, EI - Aer Lingus, LO-LOT - Polish Airlines, LH - Lufthansa, OK - Czech Airlines, OV - Estonian Airlines, OS - Austrian Airlines, SAS - Scandinavian Airlines, UT - UTair Airlines, VV - Aerosvit. Valid until April 1, 2011, unless indicated. Dep. 06:50 16:15 14:25 06:30 18:40 18:50 10:55 06:30 14:15 15:15 12:15 12:15 21:10 21:10 14:40 14:35 14:50 11:30 18:05 11:30 18:05 17:10 15:55 08:35 10:00 08:35 07:50 06:00 14:50 11:00 14:05 14:20 22:40 11:00 Arr. 09:10 17:50 16:00 07:15 19:25 19:35 11:30 07:05 14:45 15:45 13:25 13:25 22:35 22:35 15:45 15:40 15:55 12:45 19:20 12:45 19:20 18:30 17:15 09:55 11:20 09:55 09:20 09:00 17:55 12:25 14:55 15:10 23:30 13:15 From Vilnius Days 1234567 12345 7 1346 27 5 123457 1234567 6 123457 2 4 6 3 3567 1 24 156 567 234 1234 2 3 6 1 4 5 7 23 4567 4567 6 1234567 1234567 6 2 4 6 247
Mail & Phones

Post
dimino 7, tel. (+370) 5 262 54 68, www.post.lt. The glorious 1969 design inside the citys main post office does little to help make life easy for anyone wishing to post a letter who doesnt speak the local lingo. An array of windows provides numerous services, from selling stamps to faxes. Theres also a shop selling a wide range of commemorative stamps for lovers of philately. Note the extraordinary calendar on the wall on the right at the back that needs changing by hand daily. Late night post offices operate in two of the citys large shopping centres at Ozo 25 (Akropolis), open 10:00 22:00, and Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J
63
Central Post Office (Centrinis Patas) B-1, Ge-
Emergency numbers Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112
Postal rates
Lithuania Letter (44g) Postcard (20g) CD (130g) 1.65Lt 1.55Lt 2.50Lt EU 2.95Lt 2.45Lt 5.90Lt Outside EU 3.35Lt 2.90Lt 11.75Lt
Express mail rates

Comparative rates for sending a package weighing a maximum of 500g. London Paris New York DHL EMS TNT UPS 325Lt 215Lt 163Lt 218Lt 325Lt 213Lt 181Lt 218Lt 397Lt 210Lt 265Lt 259Lt
Laptop login
Wireless W If youre wireless enabled, youre ready to go online. There are many cafs, restaurants, hotels and public spaces in Vilnius that are a part of a network of paid wireless internet hotspots. Notable locations include the whole of Pilies and Gedimino, the citys tourist information centres and the airport, of which the latter also has a few areas where you can connect for free. To use these hotspots, turn your wireless on and choose the Zebra network. When you open your web browser youll see a page with instructions and prices. You can pay via SMS if youve got a local SIM card. Be warned, however, that the Zebra network is neither cheap nor particularly reliable. Several cafs and hotel lobbies around town provide free wireless access. 3G Both Bit and Omnitel (see right) provide 3G services for laptop connection to the internet. What you actually get is far from perfect, but if youre prepared for slightly slower speeds than broadband, your connection dropping out a few times a day and incompatible software that could conflict with your operating system it might be just for you. With the added convenience of GPRS backup for obscure locations, both companies offer a range of prepaid and contract options. Dialup Assuming youve got an RJ-11 plug on the end of your cable (visitors from the UK please note that you probably dont), a nifty, hassle-free dialup option is available for those who cant find any other connection. Simply dial tel. 890 15 55 55 from anywhere in the country using your dial-up software of choice leaving the username and password blank and away you go. Calls are charged at a standard 0.12Lt/min at all times from a private line (this figure may well be a lot higher in a hotel), and everything is charged directly to whoevers telephone account youre using.
Bit G-5, emaits 15, tel. (+370) 699 232 30, www.bite.lt. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
A Omnitel G-3, J. Jasinskio 16b, tel. (+370) 698 633 33, www.omnitel.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. TELE2 G-4, Vytenio 9/25, tel. (+370) 5 213 09 10, www.tele2.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Mobile phones
Internet cafs
Collegium C-3, Pilies 22, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 34, doradata@gmail.com. Art meets the internet in this cosy and pleasant internet caf right on the main street of Old Town. Full program package for serious work. A range of useful internet and office services including laptop access, photocopying, printing, binding, laminating, and cheap calls. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Takas G-4, J. Jasinskio 1/8, tel. (+370) 685 240 24. Reasonably central, climb the flight of stairs and fight with the teenagers for a battered albeit perfectly decent PC. Q Open 24hrs.
Prepaid SIM cards

Card Bit (Labas) Omnitel (Eys) TELE2 (Pildyk) Price (Lt) 6 5 4.50 Local (Lt/min) 0.49 0.46 0.48 London (Lt/min) 1.99 2.03 1.85 Top-up (Lt) 5/10/20/40/99 From 5 5/7/10/15/20/35/50 SMS (Lt) 0.11 0.10 0.10 Voicemail (Lt/call) 0.10 Free 0.15 Coverage 99% 99% 96%
Note All prices quoted are for peak-time calls, and are subject to change during the lifespan of this guide.
64
shoPPing
Unless youre Latvian or Polish, you probably didnt come to Vilnius to shop. However, shopping is fun, and, in the case of certain products (notably Lithuanian alcohol, cigarettes and amber) a hell of a lot cheaper than it is in the West. The main shopping areas in Vilnius can be divided neatly into the two areas of Old Town (antiques, amber, books old and new and some nice pieces of art) and parts of the citys classiest street, Gedimino (designer clothes, mobile phones and more books). The citys markets are also well worth a visit for an authentic, blast to the past experience if nothing else, as indeed are the increasing number of large shopping centres around the edge of the city, where among other things youll find all the clothing and footwear shops weve chosen not to list here.
Shop smarts
Open Closed Push Pull Atidaryta Udaryta Stumti Traukti
Shopping centres
A huge place full of shops and the flocks that visit them. In case shopping isnt your thing, you can try ice-skating, bowling, or see a film. Theres also a good range of restaurants and a constant cacophonous argument between the cheap car alarms in the enormous car park. Not very central, find it about 3km north of the action. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAUW Europa H-3, Konstitucijos 7a, tel. (+370) 5 248 70 70, www.europa.lt. In the heart of the business district just north of the river, find three floors of mostly clothes shops plus a couple of restaurants and a handful of little pods for drinking coffee in. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. PALW Flagman A-1, Gedimino 16, tel. (+370) 698 306 62, www.flagman.lt. Almost exclusively clothing, and not that cheap either. A good location if you need something in a hurry. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJA Gedimino 9 B-1, Gedimino 9, tel. (+370) 5 262 98 12, www.gedimino9.lt. Vilnius Municipalitys former HQ has been transformed into a grand shopping centre that never quite reaches its goal. Mildly bleak, there are at least a few good places to shop for the time being, among them the countrys first Body Shop and the Nacionalin Dizaino ir Mados Galerija (National Design and Fashion Gallery), a contemporary retail, events and meeting place that puts on fashion shows and sells top name fashion brands, accessories, perfume etc. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PJAW Hyper Rimi G-4, Savanori 16, tel. (+370) 5 246 12 00, www.rimi.lt. Not quite ever y thing under one roof (they dont sell roofs for example), but not far off i t. A huge heated expanse offering electrical goods, clothes, books, tools, toys and household essentials as well as a fairl y ex tensi ve collection of local and impor ted foodstu ffs. Also a few oth er sh ops inside th e same building. Also at irmn 64, Atei ties 91. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. A IKI Commercial Centre I-2, irmn 2, tel. (+370) 5 272 19 68, www.iki.lt. One of the countrys largest IKI supermarket selling a wide range of food and household supplies as well as a few other shops on three floors and a ili Kaimas restaurant upstairs. Also at J. Jasinkio 16. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A Ozas H-1, Ozo 18, tel. (+370) 5 210 01 50, www. ozas.lt. Opened in August 2009, the large Ozas shopping centre offers more gargantuan shopping and restaurant services to the city. Find inside a veritable cavalcade of shops selling everything from designer clothes to food. The large Prisma supermarket stocks one of the most extensive ranges of alcohol in Vilnius. Q Open 10:00 22:00. PAULW
Akropolis G-1, Ozo 25, tel. 1588, www.akropolis.lt.
58 11, www.panorama.lt. Loads of retail outlets, entertainment centres and restaurants close to the centre in vrynas. Many high street names, a top floor of restaurants, the countrys first electric go-carting centre and smoking rooms next to the public toilets. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAULW VCUP H-3, Konstitucijos 16, tel. (+370) 5 273 04 69, www.vcup.lt. Once colossal, this former flagship Soviet shopping sensation looks more like a corner shop than an experience these days. Limited retail and dining just north of the river. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PA
Panorama G/F-2, Saltoniki 9, tel. (+370) 5 219
Amber
According to local legend, amber (gintaras) originates from the tears of the sea goddess Jrat and the stones from her castle, which was destroyed by Perknas, the pagan god of thunder, when he discovered her passionate love affair with the mortal fisherman Kastytis. Scientists, not generally being of the pagan faith, think different. Some 40 million years ago or thereabouts the earth got warmer, causing an increase in the secretion of resin in the pine forests in the region. The streams of resin swept down rivers and into the Baltic Sea, sometimes sweeping up a stray bug along the way. Its this fossilised resin that now sits in deltaic deposits off the coasts of Kaliningrad, Lithuania, Poland and Sweden. Ask most people and theyll tell you amber is a dark honey colour. However, visit anywhere selling the stuff and youll soon see it comes in such diverse colours as blue, black, white and yellow. White amber is called royal amber and is widely available in Lithuania. Blue and black amber are more rare here. 88, www.ambergift.lt. An astounding Aladdins cave of amber. The walls and ceiling are plastered with glowing chips of amber while display cabinets are full of jewellery, sculptures and more. Worth visiting even if youre not interested in shopping. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Sun. JA Amber Museum-Gallery C-3, v. Mykolo 8, tel. (+370) 5 262 30 92, www.ambergallery.lt. A great little place apt at displaying amber at its best. The knowledgeable and friendly staff speak English, and can waffle on for hours about the stuff if you want to know all about it. Also at v. Mykolo 12. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA Beata Amber C-3/4, Stikli 10, tel. (+370) 5 234 46 85, www.beataamber.com. As much a wholesaler as retailer, you can pick up amber at a variety of stages of production here. There are hunks of raw amber, various polished beads and blobs that you can use to make your own jewellery and fine finished creations. Also at Antakalnio 60. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA Maasis Gintaro Muziejus C-3, Didioji 6, tel. (+370) 5 262 49 86. Arguably one of the best places to bu y amb er. They have a great selection and the girls who work here are really helpful. Also at Didioji 5, Didioji 10, Didioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 8, Pilies 10, Stikli 3. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA
Amber C-5, Auros Vart 9, tel. (+370) 5 212 19
66
shoPPing
Antiques
Unless the item in question is less than 50 years old, some degree of bureaucracy will almost certainly be required to get antiques out of the country. A reputable antiques salesperson will assist you with this. If they cant, you might like to think again about making the purchase.
The Notebook Shop P. Lukio 17, tel. (+370) 5 274
15 28, www.nshop.lt. A fine selection of PC laptops plus spare parts, peripheries, service and software. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Department stores
Dominikon Antiques B-3, Dominikon 3-2, tel. (+370) 5 261 17 38. Old books, furniture, postcards and other items of antiquity. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Fabra Ars F-3, A. Mickeviiaus 26, tel. (+370) 698 088 00, www.fabraars.lt. Classic and original artworks, mostly from the 18th and 19th centuries. Mostly of interest to collectors and dealers. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Also by appointment. Senasis Kuparas B-3, Dominikon 14, tel. (+370) 5 262 10 24, www.kuparas.lt. An excellent shop full of beautiful and highly sought-after pieces adjoining a shop selling some quite exquisite glassware. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Vilnius Antiques Centre C-3, Dominikon 16, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 79, www.antiques.lt. A wide selection of paintings, icons, furniture, silverwear and other curiosities. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
5 266 00 83, www.marks-and-spencer.lt. A sign of maturity in a European city, M&S recently upped sticks and moved across the road to a new, bigger address. Expect the same brands of clothing for all plus the usual highly recommended food outlet. Their peanut butter is particularly good. Open from December 1. Q Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Food department open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JA
Marks & Spencer A-1, Gedimino 20/1, tel. (+370)
Stefanel H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 620 922 29. The world famous Italian-based fashion house brings its unique range of designs to Vilnius. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
Fashion
Flowers & Plants
Books etc.
Bookworms and cheapskates should note that in addition to the following bookshops, reading matter can be found at various libraries listed in our Directory. International press is best found in the citys better hotels, of which some offer a pre-ordering service for newspapers and magazines they dont usually stock. 5 266 16 80, www.humanitas.lt. A wide range of works for lexicographers, plus the usual dictionaries, reference books and paperback novels. One of the better places in town for foreign literature, which youll find in the back room downstairs. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA French Bookshop Pegasas C-3, Didioji 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 05 17, www.pegasas.eu. Adjoining the French Cultural Centre, if they dont stock it they will happily order. You can also subscribe to French-language magazines here. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA Humanitas B-3, Dominikon 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 11 53, www.humanitas.lt. Glossy books about art, architecture, interior design, shoes and Jamie Oliver. Also travel guides and atlases. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Mint Vinetu B-3, v. Ignoto 16/10, tel. (+370) 618 203 47, mintvinetu.com. Hooray for the lovely people who opened this very welcome second-hand bookshop with small attached caf in Old Town. The choice of books, including titles in English, may be small but its the best anybodys managed to do so far. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. JW Vaga G-3, Gedimino 50/2, tel. (+370) 5 249 83 92, www.vaga.lt. An old Vilnius favourite on two floors. Find a few English books upstairs. Also at Konstitucijos 7a. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A
Akademin Knyga C-3, Universiteto 4, tel. (+370)
If youre thinking of giving flowers to somebody in Lithuania, remember that superstition remains rife here and its easy to make a mistake. There are certain rules that should be adhered to if you wish to keep on the right side of your sweetheart and/or future parents-in-law. Firstly, unless somebody just died, make sure you only give an odd number of flowers or stems. One will do, but isnt particularly welcomed unless its a single red rose for the one you love. Lilies and chrysanthemums are potent symbols of death and should be left well alone unless heading to the cemetery. If giving flowers to members of the older generations avoid yellow ones. Yellow is the colour of jealousy, and can be traced back to the Middle Ages when yellow was the traditional colour of the dresses worn by ladies of a questionable profession. Carnations, especially red ones, are symbols of the communists. Again, avoid. And if you just so happen to be in Lithuania on International Womens Day (March 8), its appropriate for men to give red tulips to their female colleagues at work. Basanaviiaus 42. Originally, flowers were sold in a small market at Reformat, which was a firewood market before that and even further back served as a cemetery for the church across the street. After the erection of the 1983 Monument to the Soviet Partisans on the site, the market was moved to its current location. Notable as being the only 24-hour market in the city, this is the place to come for individual flowers, wreaths and bouquets. Q Open 24hrs. Gls ir Manufaktra B-5, Rdnink 11, tel. (+370) 5 261 51 61, www.sododizainas.lt. A good selection of flowers and plants for the home and/or special occasions. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 17:00. Closed Sun. JA
F l owe r M a r ke t (G l i Tu r g u s) G - 4 , J .
iDeal Solution B-4, Vokiei 5, tel. (+370) 5 240 54 26, www.idealsolution.lt. The best place in town for Apple products, from laptops to iPods. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA Vilnius In Your Pocket
Computers
shoPPing
Food & Drink
55, www.ajsokoladas.lt. Delicious chocolates made daily in Trakai and delivered fresh. Sold by the gramme, so you can be as picky as you like. Also at Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), Pilies 8. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. JA Biosala H-3, Konstitucijos 7a (Europa), tel. (+370) 685 858 79. A good selection of mostly organic food in tins and packets plus a few extras such as bio-degradable washing powder etc. Find it right in front of the main door as you enter. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Gourmet Delicafe C-3, Didioji 8, tel. (+370) 606 043 54. Hitching a ride of the coattails of the latest trend, find a small shop selling an admirable choice of food from Italy including pasta, meat, pesto, olive oil, coffee etc. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. JA Gyvo Alaus Krautuvl H-3, Konstiticijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370) 652 164 54, www.gyvasalus.lt. A small but highly recommended selection of traditional Lithuanian live beers for sale, among them the delicious Butaut Dvaro Alus, available in both light (viesus) and dark (tamsus) varieties. Find it on the floor at ground level close to the coffee shop. Also at Mindaugo 11 (Mindaugo Maxima), Pylimo 58/1 (Hals Market). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Ikiukas D-3, Uupio 7/1, tel. (+370) 5 260 84 88, www. iki.lt. Tucked away in handy locations nationwide, with edible treats and a few household goods on offer. Fresh baked goods are a key attraction, as is the decent range of groceries. Also at Pylimo 21, Vokiei 13. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. JA Rta A-1, A. Jakto 5, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 68. Established in iauliai in 1913 and still based in the city, support your local confectioner and buy some of their treats as a gift or for the simple pleasure of stuffing them in your face. Everything from chocolate bars to caramel to truffles. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Rytietikos Maisto Preks ir Grimai H-3, Kalvarij 24a (Ibrahim), tel. (+370) 5 273 17 38, www.ibrahim. lt. This predominantly Turkish food shop is the only thing of its kind as such in the city. Find the shelves bulging with a bizarre collection of things to eat including tins of average hummus, packets of equally average chalva (halva), ajvar that could be a lot better and some very good Turkish delight. Also here and hard to find in other places are tins of chick peas and cumin. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A Senamiesio Krautuv C-3, Literat 5, tel. (+370) 5 231 28 36, www.senamiesciokrautuve.lt. An interesting idea that takes the old-fashioned deli idea of fresh products laid out in baskets sold by friendly, rosy-cheeked people and transforms it into a total Lithuanian experience. All the food for sale is local, including fruit, vegetables, pickles, sausage, bread, cakes and drinks. During the summer months the shop turns into a bit of a caf, with chair and tables in the street. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JA Skonio Studija A-3, J. Basanaviiaus 18, tel. (+370) 5 243 62 26. This glorious shop mostly sells spices including, rather annoyingly, some but not all of the basic spices required to make Indian food. The best thing about it however are the little corners hiding such treats as chilli noodles, Dutch peanut butter and a range of Chinese and Japanese sauces. Also a small range of rice cookers and a few quality kitchen knives. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JA
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AJ okoladas G-3, Gedimino 46, tel. (+370) 655 140
Markets
Shopping in a Lithuanian market (turgus), although perhaps not for the faint hearted, is an experience to be savoured if at all possible when visiting the country. As Vilnius In Your Pocket goes to press yet another market is due to open. Located on the southwest corner of (H-2) Kalvarij and algiris, expect what looks to be a rather lacklustre affair of cheap prefabricated buildings selling everything from Chinese radios to carrots. The market is due to open in December.
www.inyourpocket.com
Hals Market (Hals Turgus) C-5, Pylimo 58/1. The modern, glass-covered affair to the left selling clothing that went out of fashion in Albania in the 1980s and raw meat at the back is perhaps best worth avoiding, whereas the beautifully restored brick building dating from 1900 to the right is more than worth a look inside. A trip through the doors rewards visitors with a nasal blast of several tonnes of smoked meat, which can be bought in here along with a few other specialities including fresh fruit and vegetables plus a nice range of locally-produced honey you can taste before you purchase. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. J Kalvarij Market (Kalvarij Turgus) H-2, Kalvarij 61. Featuring everything from old ladies selling garlic bulbs and carrier bags to the occasional bargain goat (cash only), one of the citys most endangered species is a must-see attraction for anyone who wants a taste of what the rest of the countrys really like. One of the best places in town for meat, locally-produced honey and cameras manufactured in the CCCP, also find tropical fish, manbags, Minsk bicycles and cheap cigarettes from the Roma girls near the main entrance. QOpen 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Souvenir Market (Suvenyr Turgus) C-2/3, Pilies 23. The only market we list aimed exclusively at foreigners wallets is a predominantly lacklustre hotchpotch of stalls selling amber, linen, wood carvings, hand-knitted socks, Soviet-era bits and pieces and a few paintings. Some pieces are really nice, but most of the stuff here is very average. Every tourist destination has one. This is Vilnius. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. J Tymo Turgus D-4, Auktaii/Maironio. Labouring under the unofficial moniker The Little Good Food & Culture Festival, this once-a-week jaunt into the world of possible alternatives churns out all manner of environmentally friendly food from local farmers and well as soaps, cosmetics and the like. Politically edgy in the fluffiest sense, the market also hosts a regular event where people can vent their spleens a la Hyde Park Corner, plus theres a place to go for free second-hand clothing and the occasional musical performance. QOpen 12:00 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. J Verslo Parkas Garinai 4km from Vilnius just off the Kaunas highway, www.gariunai.lt. Despite the rather pompous re-branding exercise, the Garinai Business Park will always be known as Garinai to those who use it. Covering a vast area of 120 hectares (there are some who say its the largest outdoor market in Europe) and attracting an average 50,000 shoppers every day, Garinai sells cars on one side of the road plus all manner of cheap consumer goods of dubious quality on a truly expansive scale on the other. A taxi from a reputable firm costs around 20Lt to get there from the city centre. Alternatively, look for the minibuses around the train and bus stations with Garinai signs on the front. QOpen 06:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 04:00 - 14:00, Sat 05:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. December 2010 - March 2011
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shoPPing
Sveiki Produktai H-3, J. Jakto 9, tel. (+370) 659
441 44, www.sveikiproduktai.lt. A fine selection of mostly food products, including a range of goods from the UK-based Infinity Foods. Among the selection are Fair Trade organic basmati rice, organic peanut butter and large tins of ghee. Also at Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), Uupio 9, Ozo 18 (Ozas). QOpen 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Uupio Krautuv B-3, Dominikon 6, tel. (+370) 686 793 50. An early contender for the prize title in the citys delicatessen sweepstakes, the lovely Uupio Krautuv has taken the plunge and opened a second shop right in the centre of Old Town. Find a fine selection of Mediterranean gourmet food including olive oil, meat, cheese, a small selection of wine, foie gras and other welcome treats. Also at Uupio 23. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. JA
Gifts & Souvenirs
21. Textile works of Lithuanian artists, expressing Lithuanian culture through a modern context. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA Auros Vart Meno Galerija C-5, Auros Vart 12, tel. (+370) 685 559 91. One of the better gift and souvenir shops in an area dripping in mediocre ones, find a small selection of locally-produced folk arts and crafts including some really lovely paper cuttings, intricate lacework, paintings and more besides. As if this wasnt enough, the bright sparks who run the place also offer light refreshments and ice-cream complete with summer outdoor seating. Magic. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 20:00. JASW
Aukso Avis C-4, Saviiaus 10, tel. (+370) 5 261 04
Gintraka C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 687 818 17, www. ambershop.lt. Amber, trinkets, knick-knacks, souvenirs and a delightful array of miscellaneous bits and bobs. Also at Auros Vart 13, Auros Vart 4, Pilies 23, Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. JA Jazzy Gift B-2, Odmini 11, tel. (+370) 677 994 02, www.jazzygift.lt. A small albeit delightfully colourful shop close to the citys sublime Indian restaurant, Jazzy Gift specialises in a wealth of goodies from small souvenirs to expensive business gifts, all designed and crafted by local artists. QOpen 11:30 - 19:00, Sat 11:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Linen & Amber Studio C-4, Stikli 3, tel. (+370) 5 261 02 13, www.lgstudija.lt. One of the best places to buy linen and amber. They have a great selection, and the girls who work here are really helpful. Also at Didioji 5, Didioji 6, Didioji 10, Didioji 11, Pilies 7, Pilies 10. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. JA Lino Namai C-3, Pilies 38, tel. (+370) 5 212 23 22, www. siulas.lt. Linen, the fabric that really breathes, is available for just about any part of the body or home. One of the citys top shops. Also at Universiteto 10, Vilniaus 12. QOpen 10:00 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. JA Mano Lietuviki Namai B-2, Odmini 11 - 2, tel. (+370) 611 166 67. Started by two female interior designers, this interesting shop close to the Cathedral specialises in gathering the most interesting work from local craftspeople working in ceramics, metal, textiles and general interior design. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Sauluva C/D-3, Literat 3, tel. (+370) 5 212 16 96, www.sauluva.lt. A great choice for souvenir and holiday shopping featuring a very respectable collection of amber jewellery plus Lithuanian made handicrafts mostly made of wood and glass. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Speciality shops
05 70, www.bitinelis.lt. A glorious little shop selling a range of locally-produced honey plus everything you ever needed to start producing the stuff yourself. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Daikt Viebutis evenkos 16a, tel. (+370) 686 497 43, www.daiktuviesbutis.lt. Located in an area rapidly making a name for itself as the place to come for expensive designer bits and pieces for the home, Daikt Viebutis (Hotel of Things) is packed with goodies, from clothing to impossible-looking cardboard tables to the latest swanky offerings from the Lomo people. Also at Vokiei 2 (CAC). Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00, Sun by appointment only. A Komisas G-4, V. Kudirkos 1, tel. (+370) 671 253 46. Second-hand clothes, furniture, televisions, hi-fi equipment and more. An excellent little place to rummage around, they also buy stuff as well as sell it. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Ona C-4, v. Kazimiero 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 63, www.ona.lt. A multitude of things for the home, paintings, photographs, jewellery, paper cuts and a host of other similar articles, all made by small-scale artists, designers and producers in Lithuania. Promoting ecologically-friendly products and worthy of much over-needed applause, if that isnt enough you can buy everything online and three per cent of the money you spend goes to a charity of your choice. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J
Health & Beauty
Bitinlis B-6, openo 12/26, tel. (+370) 5 233
Crme de la Crme G/F-2, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama),
tel. (+370) 5 219 59 69, www.cremedelacreme.lt. An impressive selection of perfumes and cosmetics for face and body inside a space-age shop in the Panorama shopping centre. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
House & Garden
senukai.lt. A huge shopping centre with building materials, electrical equipment, miscellaneous household essentials, some basic office furniture, garden centre and outdoor furniture. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A
Senukai Ukmergs 244, tel. (+370) 5 252 52 55, www.
Bareket H-3, Vasario 16-osios 16, tel. (+370) 5 212 30 87, www.bareket.lt. Silver and gold melt together in fantastic medleys. If youre looking to propose, the Bareket people are also deep into the diamond business. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. A Jrats Akmenliai A-3, Pylimo 22d, tel. (+370) 5 262 02 79, www.juratesakmeneliai.lt. Why just buy jewellery when you can make your own? The concept here is all about importing a glittering array of beads and stuff from all over the world and allowing you to string them together to make whatever you please. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA Yurga B-3, Trak 16, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 56, www. yurga.lt. Hand-made jewellery inspired by themes from nature and formed from amber, iron, gold and silver. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Jewellery
shoPPing
Lithuanian designers
09, www.jzileniene.lt. Applying a soft touch with stunning effect, Julija is the sort of designer who would like to get to know you before you get dressed. Not only can she design your personal wardrobe, but your whole house too. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
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Julija ilnien C-3, Stikli 7, tel. (+370) 5 231 06
nas B-2, Odmini 11, tel. (+370) 5 212 20 29, www. josefstatkus.com. Juozas Statkeviius is arguably the most prominent fashion designer of Lithuanian origin. Most of his designs tend to offer elegance and femininity with a bit of a twist, but without nonsense impracticalities. Occasionally, however, he goes completely bonkers and dresses models up in babies bonnets while painting blood dribbling out of their mouths. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J Lino Kopos H-3, Krokuvos 6, tel. (+370) 5 275 12 00, www.linokopos.lt. The name means linen dunes, which sounds like a laundry nightmare, but is actually a fair reflection of the range and beauty of creations made exclusively from this versatile natural fibre. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
tel. (+370) 652 592 99, www.gedimino9.lt. A top spot to flitter through racks of creations from various Lithuanian designers. There are also plenty of accessories and knickknacks. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. JA Ramun Piekautait C-4, Didioji 20, tel. (+370) 5 231 22 70, www.ramunepiekautaite.com. Put elegance and confidence in a blender, add a hint of daring and/or fruity nonsense and press the puree button. Or just pop along here to see the results, courtesy of another internationally successful local designer. QOpen 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. JA Zoraza C-3, Stikli 6, tel. (+370) 5 212 00 84, www. zoraza.com. Bags, boots, shoes, furry things, shiny things, florid frocks, and a glitzy upholstered toilet. The only thing we can find in common among all the creations tucked away in this bristling boutique, other than the fact that they have tumbled from the presumably chaotic cognitions of designer Daiva Urbonaviit, is a certain wacky weirdness. Not for the straight-laced. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Juozo Statkeviiaus Liukso Klass Mad Salo-
National Design & Fashion Gallery (Nacionalin Dizaino ir Mados Galerija) B-1, Gedimino 9 (3rd floor),
Aistra B-6, V. openo 1, tel. (+370) 5 233 07 32/(+370)

608 444 43, www.sexparduotuve.lt. You never know, it might come in handy. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis), tel. (+370) 5 249 28 83, Viruliki 40 (Mada, 2nd floor), tel. (+370) 5 241 01 08. Ukmergs 369 (BIG), tel. (+370) 5 264 33 31. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Sex shops
Photography
Sport & Recreation
Foto Fabrikas G-4, Savanori 16 (Hyper Rimi), tel.
(+370) 5 235 40 55. The only truly pro shop in town can provide contact sheets and rush all manner of film formats through in an hour. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A
Muzikos Bomba H-3, A. Jakto 24/3, tel. (+370) 5 262 45 57. Lithuanias biggest label and one hip shop presenting jazz, classic, folk, indie, and experimental music. Orders accepted. Also at Vilniaus 22, Kostitucijos 7a (Europa), Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. JA Thelonious C-3, Stikli 12, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 76, www.thelonious.lt. A superb choice of second-hand CDs and vinyl, mostly jazz but also a few other gems you wont find in a mainstream music shop. They also sell a range of old-fashioned hi-fi equipment for those who dont know their iPods from their elbows. Devoted to the cause, Thelonious now organise the occasional jazz concert. See the website for more information. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. J vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Recorded music
161 61, www.golfcity.lt. There are two golf clubs in the Vilnius area (see www.capitals.lt and www.golfclub.lt for more) and this is the shop that serves them. Everything from clubs to tees to those ridiculous patterned trousers golfers love to wear. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Laisvs Turas Laisvs 123, tel. (+370) 5 273 67 11, www.laisvesturas.lt. For lovers of the outdoor life, find everything from tents and camping gear in general to sports clothing to canoes and even barbecue equipment. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A Prosport uolyno 7, tel. (+370) 682 437 13, www. prosport.lt. Trainers, footballs, rugby balls, golf clubs, racquets, skis, swimming costumes and much much more. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Sportas ir Mada B-4, Pylimo 36, tel. (+370) 5 262 41 27. A good selection of sports equipment and a limited range of clothing. Excellent location right on the edge of Old Town. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA
Golf City Savanori 1 (Helios City), tel. (+370) 615
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liFestyle direCtory
Barbers & Beauty
Franko C-3, Pilies 23, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 82/(+370) 670 225 54, frankosalonas@gmail.com. Get a sprucing-up in this recommended salon right on Pilies. The bright-eyed, English-speaking staff will make your hair swell with style.QOpen 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Sun. JA Figaro B-4, Vokiei 14, tel. (+370) 5 262 12 12, www.
www.skalbiusau.lt. A good old-fashioned launderette that can also pick up and drop off your laundry if you cant be bothered to do it yourself. Also at ekins 26, Savanori 176. QOpen 10:00 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Skalbiu Sau Saultekio 41, tel. (+370) 5 269 60 98,
Eliksyras D-3, v. Mykolo 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 64 03, www.eliksyras.lt. An extensive collection of DVDs and videos including a small selection of non-Hollywood blockbusters. Also at A. Domaeviiaus 3/6. QOpen 15:00 - 22:00. J
DVD rental
figaro.lt. Chopping locks here there and everywhere. Also at Gedimino 9, Gedimino 54, Konstitucijos 7a. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA Gatineau B-2, Totori 19, tel. (+370) 5 261 83 64, www.groziopaslaugos.lt. A very pleasant hairdressing, manicure, pedicure, make-up, massage, cosmetology salon with early hours and smiling English- and Italian-speaking staff. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J Vis Unita H-3, Konstitucijos 20, tel. (+370) 5 231 49 11, www.visunita.lt. Pampering from top to ... pedicure, including hairdressing, manicure and cosmetology. Also located on the first floor of the Reval Hotel Lietuva where medical, dermatology and massage services are also available. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA
Gay & Lesbian

Legal since just 1993, the age of consent for a homosexual relationship in Lithuania is an astonishing 14. The websites at www.gayline.lt and www.gay.lt have information about gay and lesbian organisations, events and accommodation in Lithuania, plus community news, chat rooms and personal ads. Lithuania remains stuck in the Stone Age concerning its attitude towards gay and lesbians, including in the capital.
International schools
American International School of Vilnius I-5,
C Gates H-3, Gedimino 28/2, tel. (+370) 5 210 75 75, www.cgates.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. J Vdnet F-4, S. Konarskio 49, tel. (+370) 5 215 00 00, www.vdnet.lt. Also at Savanori 16, Viruliki 40. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Vinita S. Staneviiaus 21a, tel. (+370) 5 230 13 01, www.vinita.lt. Also at Ozo 25 (Akropolis). QOpen 08:00 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cable television
QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. French International School ilo 13, tel. (+370) 5 276 91 32, www.efv.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Subaiaus 41, tel. (+370) 5 212 10 31, www.aisv.lt.
18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Vilnius International School C/D-3, Rus 3, tel. (+370) 5 276 15 64, www.vischool.lt. QOpen 08:00 Vilnius Montessori pre-School Naujakuri 29, tel.
(+370) 606 382 69 (Mon - Sun)/(+370) 5 270 08 80, www.vms.lt. The international Montessori English language pre-school has opened in Vilnius. Enrolment is throughout the year. The number of places is limited. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Cleaning services
08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Danclean Paneri 11, tel. (+370) 5 210 43 73, www. danclean.lt. Everything from apartments to offices. QOpen
Key cut
Raktin D-2, B. Radvilaits 7, tel. (+370) 5 212 65 65,

Closed Sun. J
Currency exchange
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
www.raktine.lt. Also at Pylimo 49, tel. (+370) 5 212 72 91.
Parex B-6, Geleinkelio 6, tel. (+370) 5 213 54 54,

www.keitykla.lt. Capable of changing just about any convertible currency as well as all Baltic denominations and Belarusian roubles. Q Open 24hrs.
Kino Studija Kareivi 6, tel. (+370) 684 744 49, www.kinostudija.lt. Vilnius film studios in Antakalnis can rent you anything they have in stock from their wide range of silly costumes. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dress hire
Jaunimo Perspektyva A-2, Vilniaus 39, tel. (+370) 5 234 09 53, www.ltmrs.lt/jp. Various levels of Lithuanian language instruction on an individual or group basis. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
dimino 26, tel. (+370) 5 231 32 39, www.lingualit.lt. Learn Lithuanian with courses of varying length suitable for everyone from short-term visitors to those who wish to make a life here. Two-week summer and winter courses are also available and include plenty of sightseeing and cultural immersion. Prices are competitive compared to courses offered by the universities. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Language courses
Lingua Lituanica A-1, Ge-
Dry cleaners & Launderettes
Jogl G-3, J. Jasinskio 16 (entrance from A. Gotauto),

tel. (+370) 5 264 91 64, www.jogle.lt. The full range of dry cleaning and laundry services. Also at Mindaugo 11 (Maxima), Ozo 25 (Akropolis), Konstitucijos 7a (Europa). QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
liFestyle direCtory
Libraries
CAC Reading Room (MC Skaitykla) C-4, Vokiei
2 (Contemporary Art Centre), tel. (+370) 5 212 19 45, www.cac.lt. Archives of information on contemporary art. Dynamic library with an extensive collection of exhibitions catalogues, theoretical books, periodicals, videotapes and CDs. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J
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Gedimino 51 (Entrance from A. Tumno), tel. (+370) 5 249 70 23, www.lnb.lt. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Martynas Mavydas Lithuanian National Library (Nacionalin Martyno Mavydo biblioteka) G-3,
Avalyns Taisykla B-4, Labdari 1/22, tel. (+370) 5 262 88 63. Heels stuck back on in 15 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Shoe repair
Genealogy
Information Bureau Tel. (+370) 699 599 88,
www.lithuaniavisits.com. Former journalist and six times European Ham Radio Operator champion, Vilius Vaseikis provides a unique and fascinating service arranging tours of Lithuania for people of Lithuanian descent. Doing everything from helping to locate lost relatives to providing a translator, Vilius is also the man to speak to if youre thinking of relocating to Lithuania or are simply looking to rent an apartment.
tel. (+370) 5 233 78 46. The entire Lithuanian civil registry archives from 1940 to the present day, including records of all births, deaths and marriages. In order to use this service, location and approximate date are essential. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (Istorijos Archyvo Skyrius) G-3, K. Kalinausko 21,
Centrinis Valstybs Archyvas) O. Milaiaus 21, tel. (+370) 5 247 78 11. When the Nazis invaded Lithuania, one of their first tasks was to prepare an extensive set of records of everyone living in the country, proving that every cloud, no matter how dark and evil it is, does indeed have a silver lining. Those looking to trace people living in Lithuania during the period of 1941-1942 should consult this archive. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
ties 10, tel. (+370) 5 213 74 82, www.archyvai.lt. The same as the Lithuanian Central Registry Archive (see above), only these archives are from the church registry up until 1940. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Registry (Gyventoj Registro Tarnyba) H-3, Lvovo 7/6, tel. (+370) 5 271 77 88, www.gyvreg.lt. If you have a name and need an address these people will help you locate the person in question (the addition of a town helps speed things up no end), although nonLithuanians be warned that if the person in question is located they are first asked if they actually want to be found before the address is given. The sensible thing for non-nationals to do is to use this service with a Lithuanian intermediary. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:45. Closed Sat, Sun.
Lithuanian Central State Archive (Lietuvos
45, tel. (+370) 5 261 40 64, www.tattoo.lt. Prices start from around 50Lt, but changing the name of a former lover into an anchor and chain usually involves a bit of work and costs more. Especially if youre trying to remove a Lithuanian surname. Piercing is offered, but they wont touch your naughty bits. Unless youre very sexy. They have previously refused to tattoo tongues, but did once tattoo someones foot. They limped home. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. J
Drakono enklas (Sign of the Dragon) B-3, Vilniaus
Tattoos & Piercing
Lithuanian State Historical Archives (Lietuvos Valstybs Istorijos Archyvas) F-6, Gerosios Vil-
Senamiesio Veterinarijos klinika B-2/3, Liejyklos 6/21, tel. (+370) 5 261 07 60, www.veterinaras.lt. House calls can be arranged. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JA
Vets & Pets
Wellness
tel. (+370) 606 755 57, www.ajurveda.lt. Enjoy a steam sauna, a copper rose bath, massage for two, tea ceremony or ayurvedic relaxing massage and peeling. They speak English and also offer gift certificates. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. JA Azia Spa C-4, v. Mikalojaus 5, tel. (+370) 644 030 00, info@aziaspa.lt, www.aziaspa.lt. A range of Eastern-style massages with a Buddhist philosophy, plus spa treatments, body scrubs, aromatherapy and more. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. JA
Ayurvedic SPA Centre Shanti J-4, Subaiaus 17,
72
liFestyle direCtory
East Island Exotic C-4, Didioji 40/2, tel. (+370) 5 212 55 99, www.east-island.lt. Spice up your life with a range of massages including several delivered with the aid of stones, honey and even chocolate. They also offer their so-called exciting erotic all body massage alongside a less risqu range of facials, body masks and scrubs. Also at Ozo 14c, tel. (+370) 5 239 48 83. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. J East Island SPA Centre G-2, Konstitucijos 26 (Forum Palace 1st floor), tel. (+370) 5 272 22 27, www.eastisland.lt. One of the citys largest spas, services here include aromatic bathtubs, a wide range of Thai massages, facials etc. and a wealth of cosmetic procedures to make you feel reborn. The centre comes complete with an Oriental ambience including representations of Buddha on the wall and a tranquil Eastern soundtrack. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. A Joga Visiems G-3, Lukiki 3, tel. (+370) 689 098 16, www.asana.lt. Weekly 90-minute Iyengar Yoga classes in English by local man Antanas who trained in Amsterdam. Classes start 17:50 every Friday. Idzumi Spa I -2, Sporto 12, tel. (+370) 5 247 24 70, w w w.idzumi. lt. An Asian atmosphere permeates and soothes, as do all the treatments and services including spa, sauna, massage, cosmetics, solarium and more. Its a fresh approach which will leave you feeling very alive and refreshed. Q Open 09:00- 21:00, Sun 11:00 -20:00. A
BNS A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370) 5 205 85 01, www. bns.lt. Q J
News agencies Print media
Emergency numbers Police Fire Ambulance Tel. 112
44 90. A weekly newspaper in English with news about all three Baltic states. Published every Friday and available for sale in some bookshops as well as for free in a number of hotels. J Impress-Teva (Subscription agency) M. Sleeviiaus 7, tel. (+370) 5 230 44 02, www.impressteva.lt. Order foreign magazines and newspapers. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. In Your Pocket C-4, Vokiei 10-15, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76, www.inyourpocket.com. Europes leading provider of locally produced urban information in print, online, video, PDF and now on the iPhone. Practical information from Dublin to Moscow, Tallinn to Athens. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Baltic Times B-5, Raugyklos 15-305, tel. (+370) 5 212
Radio
worldservice.
BBC World Ser vice 95.5FM, w w w.bbc.co.uk/
Special interest groups

International Womens Association B - 4,
tel. (+370) 685 212 43, iwavilnius@gmail.com, iwavilnius.com. Vilnius long established International Womens Association welcomes women from all cultural backgrounds living in the Lithuanian capital. As well as organising such traditional social events as coffee mornings, the IWA runs a playgroup and is involved in a number of charitable activities. J
health
Dentists
Dentists in Vilnius are of a high quality and relatively inexpensive by Western standards. The following dentists all have English-speaking staff. traction 100 - 500Lt, implant 2,000 - 3,500Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA V. Pro Odontologijos Klinika C-3, Universiteto 2/18, tel. (+370) 5 231 29 52, www.odontologijosklinika.lt. Check-up 40Lt, cleaning 6Lt/tooth, laser - whitening 1,000Lt, filling 150 - 300Lt, implant 4,000 - 5,000Lt/tooth. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA
73
9-9, tel. (+370) 686 305 26, mackeviciai@mail.lt, www.dentaltravel. lt. Laser whitening 1,000Lt, prosthetic-CAM-DAM CEREC 3 system 8001,500Lt, implant 2,000-3,000Lt/tooth, treatment with magnification (microscope and lens). Also at: Nemenins rd.54a (Baltijos Amerikos Klinika)Q Open Mon - Fri 08:00 20:00. Sat, Sun by appointment only. J
A ir B Mackevii Odontologijos Klinika B-2, L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus
Hospitals
iltnami 29, tel. (+370) 5 216 92 12, www.vgpul.lt.
Vilnius University Emergency Hospital (Vilniaus Greitosios Pagalbos Universitetin Ligonin)
5 262 97 60. Check-up 30-120Lt, cleaning 250Lt, whitening 117Lt/tooth, filling 160-600Lt, implant from 5,500Lt/tooth. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J Gidenta H-3, A. Vienuolio 14-3, tel. (+370) 5 261 71 43, www.gidenta.lt. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 4 - 6Lt / tooth, laser - whitening 690Lt, filling 60 - 200Lt, extraction 40 - 400Lt, implant 1,800 - 2,200Lt/tooth. QOpen 09:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Odontika Krivi 5, tel. (+370) 5 215 31 35, www.odontika. com. Check-up 20Lt, cleaning 150Lt, laser-whitening 450Lt, filling 80 - 120Lt, extraction from 80Lt, implant 1,700Lt/tooth. Q Open Mon - Fri 09:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun by appointment only. A Stomatologijos Gydykla C-3, Dominikon 3-45, tel. (+370) 5 262 84 82. Check-up 80Lt, cleaning 5-7Lt/ tooth, laser - whitening 100 - 1,000Lt/tooth, filling 100 - 200Lt, ex-
Dr. Br. Sidaraviius A-3, Klaipdos 2/14-3, tel. (+370)
Baltic-American Clinic Nemenins 54a, tel. (+370) 5 234 20 20, www.bak.lt. Highly recommended modern professional health care and diagnostics, now bigger and better than ever.Q Open 24hrs. A Beauty Therapy and Surgery Clinic E-1, . Sugiharos 3, tel. (+370) 5 270 57 10, www.sugihara.lt. A highly trained team of consulting doctors will come to the rescue if your beauty is, erm... slipping away. You can also indulge yourself with a massage or various other forms of pampering. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Fertility Centre C-2, Maironio 25, tel. (+370) 5 261 42 26, www.vaisingumocentras.lt. Highly recommended modern fertility treatments. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. JA Fertility Clinic Laisvs 64a, tel. (+370) 5 239 05 95, www.vaisingumas.lt. Full-service gynaecologist. Fertility treatments, obstetrics and modern therapies for menopause. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Medical services
74
health
HIV & AIDS
Lithuanian AIDS Centre (Lietuvos AIDS Centras) G-5, Kauno 37/59, tel./fax (+370) 5 233 01 11, www.aids.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Opticians
612 530 90, www.optometrija.lt. Also at Vokiei 26, Gedimino 9, Vilniaus 31/1. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Rega C-3, Pilies 32, tel. (+370) 5 262 00 73, www. rega.lt. Also at Gedimino 49a/2. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. JA Vision Express B-4, Saltoniki 9 (Panorama), tel. (+370) 616 363 41, www.visionexpress.lt. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. JA
Optometrijos Centras B-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370)
Pharmacies
JA
Aulavis C-2, Tilto 6, tel. (+370) 5 262 85 88. Homeopathic. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Eurovaistin Ukmergs 282 (Maxima), tel. (+370) 5 230 37 59. Q Open 24hrs. A Gedimino Vaistin H-3, Gedimino 27, tel. (+370) 5 261 01 35. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun Operos Vaistin A-1, A. Vienuolio 6-21, tel. (+370) 5 212 61 16. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Medical Diagnostic Centre (Medicinos diagnostikos centras) J-1, V. Grybo 32, tel. (+370) 5 270 Universiteto Vaistin C-3, Universiteto 2, tel. (+370) 5 212 12 19. QOpen 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Vokiei Vaistin C-4, Didioji 13, tel. (+370) 5 212 42 32. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JA
Closed Sun. JA JA 10:00 - 17:00. JA
91 20, www.medcentras.lt. Excellent staff and facilities for everything from regular check-ups to major surgery, with all the lab tests, scans and caring guidance along the way. English speaking doctors. 24-hour urgent surgery services. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Medicine General Private Clinics B-2, tel. (+370) 684 331 00 (appointments). City centre-based Australian doctor, UN and embassy affiliated. High standard of family and personal care. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JA Northway Medical Center I-2, S. ukausko 19, tel. (+370) 5 264 44 66, www.nmc.lt. General practitioners and specialists in cardiology, gynaecology, otorhinolaryngology (ear, nose and throat, in case youre wondering) and more. There are also rehabilitation, health and beauty centre services. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A
Winter sports
Akropolis Ice (Akropolio Ledas) G-1, Ozo 25, QOpen 08:30 - 23:30. iemos Trasa Minsko 2, tel. (+370) 5 210 62 42,
tel. (+370) 659 919 74, www.akropolis.lt. Its skating in a shopping centre, and its cooler than it sounds.
Skin and Laser Surgery Center G-4, M. K. iurlionio 19/36-30, tel. (+370) 5 264 73 04, www.lazerinechirurgija.lt. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
239 05 00, www.kardiolita.lt. High-tech heart surgery centre. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
14:00. Closed Sun. JA
eimos Medicinos Centras (Family Medical Centre) A-3, Pylimo 9, tel. (+370) 5 260 86 84, www. seimosgydytojas.lt. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
www.ziemostrasa.com. A 280m outdoor artificial ski slope just south of the city close to the airport, facilities include two ski lifts (one for adults and a shorter one for the kids) and a decent caf-bar. Equipment rental is possible, plus snowboarding lessons are available in English. The entire place can also be rented out for private parties. QOpen 16:00 - 20:00, Fri 15:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
Vilnius Heart Surgery Centre (Vilniaus irdies Chirurgijos Centras) Laisvs 64a, tel. (+370) 5
www.inyourpocket.com
Vilnius In Your Pocket vilnius.inyourpocket.com
health
75
MEDICAL DIAGNOSTIC AND TREATMENT CENTRE

HEALTH CHECK-UP. Special health check-up programmes, prepared according to age group, for men and women. DIAGNOSTICS. Investigations: MRI, 128-slice CT, X-ray, mammography, sonoscopy, endoscopy, etc. Laboratory services: more than 400 lab tests. Same day results. TREATMENT. Consultations of 160 doctors, specialists in 53 fields of medical practice. SURGERY. Over 100 types of conventional and minimally invasive laparoscopic surgery. Plastic and reconstructive surgery. Laser eye treatment. Laser treatment of blood-vessel and various skin derivatives. Laser treatment of leg veins. Lithotripsy (non-invasive treatment of kidney and urinary stones). NEW. Natural knee cartilage regeneration.
Highly professional, attentive English-speaking staff State-of-the-art medical equipment Quality healthcare certificates: ISO 9001:2008; ISO 14001:2005
V. Grybo str. 32, LT-10318 Vilnius, Lithuania Registration and information: tel. +370 5 270 9120, mob. +370 698 00 000 E-mail: info@medcentras.lt www.medcentras.lt
Clinic and Hospital
Attentiveness Heals
Sports
As tempting as it may be to just sit around in cafs and bars enjoying the city, there might be occasions wheN you might want to actually do something. Whether its relaxation or action, weve hand-picked a bunch of options and stuffed our pages with stuff to do.
Impuls Plus Kareivi 14, tel. 1588, www.impuls. lt. Also at L. Asanaviits 15, Ozo 41, Savanori 28, Fabijoniki 97a. QOpen 06:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 21:00. ADC
Bowling & Billiards
Racquet sports
99 09, www.bowling.lt. Wonky lanes and pins on strings. Better lanes and equipment upstairs, where prices are also higher. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. PA Free Ball H-2, Konstitucijos 16 (VCUP), tel. (+370) 5 273 05 91. A pleasant enough space featuring a bar and several pool tables in excellent condition. QOpen 11:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PA
Cosmic Bowling G-4, Vytenio 6/23, tel. (+370) 5 233
tel. (+370) 655 040 50. 20 - 95Lt/hour depending on when you want to play. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. A
Teniso Pasaulis (Tennis World) E-1, uolyno 7,
Cricket
Sostins Stalo Teniso Sporto Klubas J-3, Oland 6/1, tel. (+370) 654 020 59, www.vilniaus-stalotenisas.lt. Lots of tables, good shower facilities and the option of coaching or just playing for pleasure.
Table tennis
Vilnius Cricket Club C-2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370)

614 809 91, www.cricketlithuania.com. A group of likeminded foreigners and locals who get together for regular games. J
Water sports
Forum Sports Club G-2, Konstitucijos 26, tel. (+370) 5 210 31 49, www.forumfitness.lt. Gym, aerobics, 25m pool, saunas, modern equipment and the option of a personal trainer to shout at you while you use it. QOpen 06:30 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. AFDC vilnius.inyourpocket.com
Fitness & Gyms
25, tel. (+370) 5 273 33 33, www.lvjc.lt. The pool is only 25m long but its clean as a whistle and, despite being in a childrens and youth centre, its not just for kiddies. C Vichy Aquapark Ozo 14c, tel. 1653, www.vandensparkas.lt. A big explosion of aquatic fun with a pleasantly up-lifting Polynesian theme throughout. Out in the northern suburbs, the taxi fares still worth it, or take bus N53 if youre feeling cheap. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. TAEKDC
Lietuvos Vaik ir Jaunimo Centras G-2, Konstitucijos
76
Business direCtory
Banks
Iceland (Consulate) F-5, K. Konarskio 28a, tel. Ireland C -2, Gedimino 1, tel. (+370) 5 262 94 Italy F/G-4, Vytauto 1, tel. (+370) 5 212 06 20. Japan F-4, M. K. iurlionio 82b, tel. (+370) 5 231 Kazakhstan F-3, Biruts 20a/35, tel. (+370) 5 212
60. (+370) 5 215 05 75.
DnB Nord A-2, Vilniaus 18, tel. 1608. SEB Bankas C-4, Vokiei 9, tel. 1528.
Accountants
29 16. 5 274 22 00.
CO Finansai C-1, Olimpiei 1-45, tel. (+370) 5 205 Ernst & Young Baltic C-5, Subaiaus 7, tel. (+370)
04 62.
tel. (+370) 5 262 05 34/ (+370) 616 550 51, info@ fscenter.lt, www.fscenter.lt. Accounting services. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J
Financial Ser vices Center B-1, Tilto 8/3,
Business connections
5-204, tel. (+370) 5 261 11 81. 9/1-63a, tel. (+370) 5 261 21 02. tel. (+370) 5 269 00 62.
American Chamber of Commerce G-3, Lukiki Association of Lithuanian Chambers of Commerce, Industry & Crafts G-3, A. Tumo-Vaiganto British Chamber of Commerce C-3/4, Didioji 5, Chamber of Commerce & Industry G/H-5, Algirdo European Business Network (EBN) B-2, Gedimino
31, tel. (+370) 5 213 55 50. 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 05 09.
los 4, tel. (+370) 5 262 74 38.
Invest Lithuania (Investuok Lietuvoje) C-3, Jogai-
21 23. Kyrgyzstan (Consulate) P. Lukio 16-247, tel. (+370) 5 216 28 98. Latvia F-4, M. K. iurlionio 76, tel. (+370) 5 213 12 60. Malta (Consulate) C-4/5, Subaiaus 2, tel. (+370) 5 251 44 91. Netherlands A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 72. Norway A-3, K. Kalinausko 24 (3rd floor), tel. (+370) 5 261 00 00. Philippines (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 4 (B corps), tel. (+370) 5 212 00 33. Poland J-2, Smlio 22a, tel. (+370) 5 270 90 01. Portugal B-2, Gedimino 5, tel. (+370) 5 262 05 11. Romania G-4, A. Vivulskio 19, tel. (+370) 5 231 05 57. Russia F-3, Latvi 53/54, tel. (+370) 5 272 17 63. Spain G-4, Algirdo 4, tel. (+370) 5 231 39 61. Sweden C- 4, Didioji 16, tel. (+370) 5 268 50 10. Thailand (Consulate) A-2, Jogailos 9/1, tel. (+370) 5 268 18 92. Turkey C-4, Didioji 37, tel. (+370) 5 264 95 70. UK J-3, Antakalnio 2, tel. (+370) 5 246 29 00. Ukraine A-3, Teatro 4, tel. (+370) 5 212 15 36. USA G-4, Akmen 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 55 00. Vatican H-4, T. Kosciukos 28, tel. (+370) 5 212 36 96.
European Commission
(+370) 5 231 31 91.
Interpreters
5 212 29 24.
European Commission A-4, Naugarduko 10, tel. European Commission Information Centre A-4,
Naugarduko 10, tel. (+370) 5 231 31 83.
Baltijos Vertimai D-2, Bernardin 9-4, tel. (+370)
Lawyers
Australia (Consulate) B-2, Vilniaus 23, tel. (+370) 5 212 33 69. Austria C-3, Gaono 6, tel. (+370) 5 266 05 80. Belarus Muitins 41, tel. (+370) 5 213 22 55. Belgium A-3, K. Kalinausko 2b, tel. (+370) 5 266 08 20. Bulgaria A-3, Pylimo 8/2, tel. (+370) 5 249 92 74. Canada A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 249 09 50. China H-5, Algirdo 36, tel. (+370) 5 216 28 61. Czech Republic F-3, Biruts 16, tel. (+370) 5 266 10 54. Denmark J-3, T. Kosciukos 36, tel. (+370) 5 264 87 60. Estonia F-3, A. Mickeviiaus 4a, tel. (+370) 5 278 02 00. Finland G-4, K. Kalinausko 24 (2nd floor), tel. (+370) 5 266 80 10. France C-3, varco 1, tel. (+370) 5 219 96 00. Georgia F-3, D. Pokos 13, tel. (+370) 5 273 69 59. Germany G-4, Z. Sierakausko 24/8, tel. (+370) 5 210 64 00. Greece C-4, Didioji 33/2, tel. (+370) 5 261 05 26. Hungary A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 38. Vilnius In Your Pocket
Foreign representations
5 212 42 44.
Sabaliauskas ir Partneriai B-1, Tilto 8/3, tel. (+370)
Lithuanian officials
(+370) 5 266 37 11.
Department of Customs (Muitins departamentas) H-3, A. Jakto 1/25, tel. (+370) 5 261 30 27. Government (LR Vyriausyb) B-1, Gedimino 11, tel. Ministry of Foreign Affairs (LR Usienio Reikal Ministerija) G-3, A. Tumo-Vaiganto 2, tel. (+370) 5 Municipality (Savivaldyb) B-1, Konstitucijos 3, tel. Parliament (LR Seimas) G-3, Gedimino 53, tel. Presidents Office (LR Prezidento Rmai) C-2, S.
Daukanto 3, tel. (+370) 5 266 41 54. (+370) 5 211 20 00.
236 24 44.
(+370) 5 239 60 60.
Notaries
Notary Bureau 2 (2-asis notar biuras) C-2, Tilto

15/7, tel. (+370) 5 231 46 83.
Office rental
Start Office A-2, Jogailos 4, tel. (+370) 5 269 00 69. vilnius.inyourpocket.com
78
street register
All of the venues in this guidebook marked with an Old Town symbol (J) are featured as such because even if theyre not in Old Town per se, they are at least on the map opposite which we call Old Town. Confused? Dont be. Aguon A. Jakto Alkns Arkli Arsenalo A. Smetonos A. Strazdelio A. Stulginskio Amenos Augustijon Auktaii Auros Vart A. Volano Bazilijon Beatris Benediktini Bernardin Bokto B. Radvilaits Didioji A-4/6 A-1 D-6 C-4/5 C/D-1 A-1/2 D-5 A-2/1 B-4 C-4 D-4 C-5/6 D-3 C/D-5 A1 B-3 C-2/D-3 C-3/D-5 C/D-2 C-3/4 Dominikon B/C-3 Dysnos B-4 Etmon C-4 Gaono C-3 Gedimino A-1/D-2 Geleinkelio C-6 Gli B-5 Islandijos A-2 Iganytojo C/D-3 J. Basanaviiaus A-3/4 J. Jablonskio A-5/6 J. Lelevelio A/B-1 Jogailos A-1/2 Karmelit C-4/5 Katon A1 Kauno A/B-6 Kdaini A/B-4 K. Griniaus A-2 K. Kalinausko A-3 Klaipdos A/B-3 Kruop B-5 K. Sirvydo B-1 K. kirpos D-1/2 Kdr D-4 K. Vanaglio D-5 Labdari B-2 Lap C-5/6 Latako C/D-3 Liejyklos B-2/3 Liepkalnio D-6 Ligonins B-4/5 Literat C/D-3 Lydos B-4 L. Stuokos-Guceviiaus B/C-2 M. Antokolskio C-3/4 Maironio D-2/4 Maln D-3 M. Daukos D-5 Msini B-5/C-4 Mindaugo A-4/6 Naruio D-6 Naugarduko A-4/5 Odmini B-2 Palangos A-3 Pamnkalnio A-2 Pasao C-5 Paupio D-3 Pelesos C/D-6 Pilies C-2/3 Plaioji B-5 Prancikon B-3/4 Punsko A-6 Pylimo A-2/C-6 Radvil B-1 Raugyklos A-6/B-5 Roi A-3/2 Rus C/D-3 Rdnink B-5/C-4 Saviiaus C-4 Sein B/C-6 Sod B-5/6 S. Skapo C-2 Stikli C-3/4 Stoties B-6 Subaiaus C/D-5 altini ermukni iauli iltadario varco ventaragio v. Dvasios v. Ignoto v. Jono v. Kazimiero v. Mikalojaus v. Mykolo v. Stepono Teatro Tilto Totori Trak Turgeli T. Vrublevskio Universiteto Uupio Vienuolio Vilniaus A/B-5 A1 B-4 D-2 C-3 C-2 D-5 B-3 C-3 C/D-4 B-4 C/D-3 A-6/B-5 A-3 B-1/C-2 B-2/3 A-4/B-3 D-6 C-1 C-2/3 D-3 A1 B-1/3
Vingri A/B-4 Vis ventj B/C-5 Vokiei B-3/C-4 V. openo B-6 emaitijos B-4 iuproni D-5 . Liauksmino B-1/C-2 yd B-4/C-3 ygimant B/C-1
82
index
AAA Mano Liza 18 Adria 27 Aer Lingus 61 Aeroflot 61 Aeroservisas 60 Aerosvit 61 A Hostel 20 Air Baltic 61 Aistra 69 Aistros Massage 45 AJ okoladas 67 Akademin Knyga 66 Akropolis 64 Alexa 18 Algirdas City Hotels 18 Amatinink Ueiga 36 Amat Gildija 12 Ambassador 20 Amber 64 Amber Museum-Gallery46, 64 Amberton Hotel (Klaipda) 16 Amber Tours 61 Ameda 20 Apia 18 Applied Art Museum 46 Archaeology Museum 46 Artis Centrum Hotels 16 Arts Printing House 14 Astrida 51 Atrium 16 Auksinis Trikampis 21 Aukso Avis 68 Aula 22 Aulavis 74 Ausros Vart Meno Galerija68 Austrian Airlines 61 Avis 60 Baltic Tours Vilnius 61 Baltic Travel Service Lufthansa City Center 51 Balti Drambliai 35 Baltijos Vertimai 76 Balzac 26 Bambalyn 36 Banzai 36 Barbacan Apartments 21 Bareket 68 Beata Amber 64 Bermudai 36 Bernardine Cemetery 56 Bernardine Church & Monastery 49 Berneli Ueiga 22 Best Western Vilnius 16 Biosala 67 Bistro 18 28 Bit 63 Bitinlis 68 Bix 36 Blusyn 26 Brandy Lounge 36 Brasserie de Verres en Vers26 Brodvjus 38 Brussels Airlines 61 BTI West Express Lietuva 51 Budget 60 Bunte Gans 27 Buses 59 Bsi Treias 41 Bus Station 59 By train 5 Caf de Paris 35 California Tapas & Wine 34 Canada 76 Castle & Trakai History Museum 55 Cathedral-Basilica of St. Stanislaus & St. Ladislaus 48 Central Post Office 63 Centre of Europe 53 Centro Baras 22 Centro Kubas - Angel 18 Centrum Uniquestay Hotel 19 Chabad Lubavitch Centre 57 Chillout 22 Choral Synagogue 57 Church Heritage Museum 46 Church of the Apparition of the Holy Mother of God 49 Church of the Holy Mother of God 50 Church of the Holy Spirit 50 ili Kaimas 22 ili Pica 30 ingischanas 25 City Gate 19 Coffee Inn 35 Collegium 63 Contemporary Arts Centre 14 Conti 17 Cozy 28 Cozy Europa 35 Crme de la Crme 68 Czech Airlines 61 Da Antonio I 32 Daikt Viebutis 68 Dawn Gate 53 Delmonas 12 Denmark 76 Department of Customs 76 Didioji Kinija 25 DiVinCi 40 DnB Nord 76 Dominikon Antiques 66 Domino Theatre 14 Domus Maria 19 Dvaras 17 Eat East 24 Ecotel Vilnius 20 El Gaucho Sano 24 Eliksyras 70 Escape (Cleopatra) 45 Escape (Mirage) 45 Esse 29 Estonian Air 61 Eurolines Lux Express 60 Europa 64 Europa City Vilnius 19 Europa Royale Vilnius 17 Evangelical Lutheran Church 50 Fabra Ars 66 Filaretai 20 Finnair 61 Fiorentino 32 Flagman 64 Flower Market 66 Fortas 36 Forto Dvaras 22 Forum Cinemas Vingis 12 Forum Sports Club 75 Foto Fabrikas 69 Franciscan Church 50 Franki 40 Frank Zappa 55 Free Ball 75 French Bookshop Pegasas 66 Gediminas Castle & Museum 46 Gedimino 9 64 Gls ir Manufaktra 66 Genocide Victim's Museum 46 Gintraka 68 Globe 36 Golf City 69 Gorky 36 Gourmet Delicafe 67 Graf Zeppelin 22 Grand Duke Gediminas 56 Gravity 39 Green Bridge 53 Grill Brazil 24 Gringo 36 Grotthuss 17 Gyvo Alaus Krautuvl 67 Haso 33 Hill of Three Crosses 53 Holiday Inn 17 Holy Trinity Church & Basilian Gate 50 Hotel Tilto 19 Humanitas 66 Hyper Rimi 64 iDeal Solution 66 Idzumi Spa 72 IKI Commercial Centre 64 Ikiukas 67 Impress-Teva 72 Impuls Plus 75 In Day 34 Indian Bites 28 Indian Maharaja 28 In Vino 40 Italika Kepykla 25 Jalta 29 Jazz Kablys 12 Jazzy Gift 68 Jewish Community of Lithuania 57 Jogl 70 Jonas Bugailikis Art Studio 12 Julija ilnien 69 Juozo Statkeviiaus Liukso Klass Mad Salonas 69 Jrats Akmenliai 68 Kaleva Travel 61 Kalvarij 1 30 Kalvarij Market 67 Karema 28 Kaukazo Belaisv 27 Kazakhstan 76 Keisti enklai 22 Kelvita 61 Kenesa 53 Kibin Inn 33 Kino Studija 70 Karaite & Tatar Cemetery 56 Koldnin 24 Komisas 68 Krantas Travel 61 La Bohme 40 Labuki 32 Laisvs Turas 69 Laktingala 30 La Pergola 30 La Provence 25 Lazdyn Pelda 56 Ll Puppet Theatre 14 Light Bar Lounge 40 Linen & Amber Studio 68 Lino Kopos 69 Lino Namai 68 Literat Gatv 53 Lithuanian Energy Museum 47 Lithuanian Film Centre 12 Lithuanian Holidays 51, 61 Lithuanian Music & Theatre Academy 12 Lithuanian National Drama Theatre 14 Lithuanian National Opera & Ballet Theatre 14 Lithuanian National Philharmonic 12 Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre 15 Lithuanian Tours 61 Litinterp Guest House 20 Livin 30 Lokys 24 LOT 61 Lufthansa 61 Lunch Lab 34 Mabre Residence 17 Mano Guru 34 Mano Lietuviki Namai 68 Map of the Ghetto 57 Marceliuks Kltis 24 Marija and Jurgis lapeliai Museum 47 Marks & Spencer 66 Markus ir Ko 34 Martialis 19 Maasis Gintaro Muziejus 64 Medininkai 30 Meno Fortas 15 Mersera 59 Mindaugas 56 Ministerija 39 Ministry of Foreign Affairs 76 Mint Vinetu 66 Miyako 32 M. K. iurlionis' House 54 Minibuses 59 Molio Laum 12 Multikino 12 Muzikos Bomba 69 Naruio Restoranas 25 Narutis 16 National Design & Fashion Gallery 69 National Museum 48 National Youth Theatre 15 Neringa 17, 30 Neringa Caf-Bar 39 Netherlands 76 New York 41 Norwegian Air Shuttle 61 Novotel Vilnius 17 Odontika 73 OKT/Vilnius City Theatre 15 Old Town Hostel 20 Old Town Strip Club 45 Olialia 39 Omnitel 63 Ona 68 Orgazmus Lounge 27 Orthodox Church of St. Paraskeva 51 Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit 51 Osaka 32 Ozas 64 Ozo Kino Sal 12 Pabo Latino 39 Panorama 64 Parex 70 Pasaka 12 Pauki Takas 26 Pekinas 25 Piano.lt 12 Piano Man 37 Piazzetta Italia 33 Planetarium 54 Plieno Pauktis 37 Pogo 37 Pomodoro 30 Portobello 37 Pramog Arena 12 Presidential Palace 54 President's Office 76 Prie Angelo 35 Prie Katedros 31 Prie Parlamento 38 Pronto 25 Prospekto Galerija 14 Prosport 69 Radisson Blu Astorija 16 Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva18 Radvila Palace 54 Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius 16 Ramun Piekautait 69 Rasos Cemetery 56 Raw Raw - alio Maisto Restoranas 35 Red Room 40 Reformed Evangelical Church 51 Relais & Chateaux Stikliai 16 Rentida 21 Rimas 60 Rinno 19 Riverside 31 Rdnink Vartai 20 Rta 67 Rytietikos Maisto Preks ir Grimai 67 Sabaliauskas ir Partneriai 76 Saint Germain 40 Sjdis Museum 48 Salento DiscoPub 39 arnas 18 SAS 61 Satta 40 Sauls Namai 20 Sauluva 68 Savas Kampas 38 Seimas 54 eimos Medicinos Centras74 Senamiesio Gidas 61 Senamiesio Krautuv 67 Senasis Kuparas 66 Senukai 68 Sereikiki Parkas 54 Shakespeare Boutique Hotel 18 Siemens Arena 12 Signatories' House 48 Skalbiu Sau 70 Skalvija 12 Skapo Apartments 21 Skin and Laser Surgery Center 74 Skonio Studija 67 SkyBar 38 Sixt 60 nekutis 41 Sofa Travel 61 Soho 45 Sonnets 31 Soprano 27 Sostins Stalo Teniso Sporto Klubas 75 Sotas 35 Souvenir Market 67 Sportas ir Mada 69 St. Anne's Church 52 Start Office 76 Stasys Apartments 21 St. Casimir's Church 52 St. Catherine's Church 12, 46 Steak House Hazienda 34 Stefanel 66 Stikli Dvaras 21 St. Nicholas' Church 52 St. Nicolas' Church 52 Stopk 40 Sts. Johns' Church 52 Sts. Peter & Paul's Church 52 St. Theresa's Church 53 St. Valentino 33 Sue's Indian Raja 28 Sura 33 Sushi Express 32 Sushi House 32 Sveiki Produktai 68 vieia Kava 35 TaDas 14 Tamsta 41 Tappo D'oro 40 Takas 63 Tautodailininko Dirbtuv 12 TELE2 63 Television Tower 55 The Beautiful Land Of Nevermind 61 Thelonious 69 The Notebook Shop 66 Tores 31 Town Hall 55 Train Station 59 Tres Mexicanos 33 Trolleybuses 59 Turkey 76 Tuskulnai Peace Park Memorial Complex 48 Tymo Turgus 67 kio Banko Teatro Arena 12 UTair 61 Uupio Galerija 12 Uupio Kalvysts Galerija Muziejus 12 Uupio Krautuv 68 Uupio Meno Inkubatorius 14 Uupio Picerija 30 Uupis Angel 56 Vaga 66 Vapiano 33 Vartai 14 Vatican 76 VCUP 64 Veranda 31 Verslo Parkas Garinai 67 Vilniaus Alus 41 Vilniaus Fotografijos Galerija 14 Vilnius Antiques Centre 66 Vilnius Apartments 21 Vilnius City Tour 51 Vilnius Congress Hall 12 Vilnius International Airport 60 Vilnius Old Town Theatre 15 Vilnius Picture Gallery 48 Vilnius Small State Theatre 15 Vilnius University 55 Vilnius Youth Tourist Centre 21 Vingio Parkas 54 Vision Express 74 Visit Lithuania 61 Vilnius Tourist Information 47 Wall Street 24 Wax Figures Museum 49 Woo 40 Yurga 68 Zanzibar 40 emaiiai 24 emait 56 Znad Wilii 14 Zoe's Bar & Grill 31 Zoraza 69 ! 35

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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

A comprehensive compendium of the capitals cultural calendar from Casimir to Kylie

Culture & Events

Dining & Nightlife

Mail & Phones

Late-opening post offices and internet cafs

Maps & Index

Ugavns (see p.11)

December 2010 - March 2011

Europe In Your Pocket

Vilnius In Your Pocket

By plane Vilnius International Airport (Tarptautinis

December 2010 - March 2011

Crime & Safety

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Money & Costs

December 2010 - March 2011

Independence & Beyond

Vilnius In Your Pocket

December 2010 - March 2011

Culture & events

Fashion of the Victorian Era

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Culture & events

December 2010 - March 2011

Culture & events

Amat Gildija B-4, Prancikon 6, tel. (+370) 5 212

Pasaka B-3, v. Ignoto 4/3, tel. (+370) 5 261 15

St. Catherines Church (v. Kotrynos Banyia)

Lithuanian Film Centre (Lietuvi Film Centras)

Vilnius Congress Hall (Vilniaus Kongres Rmai)

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Culture & events

December 2010 - March 2011

Culture & events

Opera & Ballet

Uupio Meno Inkubatorius (see below)

Actus Magnus C-3, Pilies 36-44, tel. (+370) 659

Vilnius In Your Pocket

Culture & events

Lithuanian Russian Drama Theatre (Lietuvos Rus

Ballet & Opera continued

December 11 18:30 22 18:30 January 5 18:30 8 18:30 February 5 18:30 19 18:30

December 2010 - March 2011

Cream of the crop

Narutis C-3, Pilies 24, tel. (+370) 5 212 28 94, fax

Amb er ton Hotel (Klaipda) B-2, L. Stuokos-

Artis Centrum Hotels B-2, Liejyklos 11/23, tel.

Ramada Hotel & Suites Vilnius C-5, Subaiaus 2, tel.

More hotels online vilnius.inyourpocket.com

Mabre Residence D-3, Maironio 13, tel. (+370) 5 212

December 2010 - March 2011

arnas I-3, Raitinink 4, tel. (+370) 5 272 38 88,

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Martialis K-1, Bistryios 13, tel. (+370) 5 210 48

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Ambassador B-1, Gedimino 12, tel. (+370) 5 261 54

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Ecotel Vilnius H-2, Slucko 8, tel. (+370) 5 210 27 00,

Bed & Breakfast

Auksinis Trikampis C-3, Didioji 8, tel. (+370) 655 043

Short term rental