MORGUE FILE

Brittany Klug

What a strange power there is in clothing. -Isaac Bashevis Singer

VICTORIAN ERA
1837-1901

INTRODUCTION

As its name would suggest, this era begins and ends with the reign of Queen Victoria. She embodied the ideal wife and mother of the time, and inspired women to uphold high morals; an attitude that was well-reflected in their sartorial taste. It was not proper for women to work or be otherwise diverted from their matronly duties; women spent most of their days sewing or changing from dress to dress with the help of a ladys maid. This was necessary, as Victorian ensembles included numerous layers and undergarments that made it impossible to dress ones self. Lasting 63 years, this era saw numerous changes in fashion and lifestyles. Current events would prove to influence these changes; as the Victorian Era saw many firsts. Among these, was the first modern sewing machine, largely attributed to Isaac Singer. His design would prove to be much more practical than the machines already on the market and made it easy for women to sew in their homes. Also during this period, the Civil War was raging in the United States, severely impacting the American cotton industry. Towards the end of Queen Victorias reign, Haute Couture was created by Charles Frederick Worth. He revolutionized the way fashion was consumed and set standards for high fashion; some of which are still in place today. On the opposite end of the fashion spectrum, Levi Strauss introduced the world to blue jeans, inspired by gold rushers need for durable clothing. The conventions he and Worth established here would prove to influence fashion into the modern era.

VICTORIAN ERA womens day wear

Victorian women had different ensembles for every activity they did throughout the day. In a single day this could include a morning dress, afternoon dress, tea dress, riding costume, dinner dress, opera dress, ball gown, and a night gown.

The Victorian silhouette is characterized by a two-piece dress, including a bodice and skirt that usually hooked together. A plaid ensemble represented wealth, due to the high labor costs associated with this complicated pattern.

Victorian fashions emphasized a womans small waist. This look was achieved with a corset, multiple petticoats and crinoline hoops underneath a floor-length skirt. Skirts became so wide that it was impossible for women to enter establishments with small door frames.

VICTORIAN ERA womens evening wear

Before Queen Victoria popularized the white wedding dress, unmarried women wore white ball gowns to show virginal qualities. The gown below is attributed to Charles Frederick Worth, the father of Haute Couture. The leg of mutton sleeve was a prominent trend of the Victorian Era. This style, popular in the late 19th century, is tight-fitting from wrist to elbow and then balloons out from elbow to shoulder, meant to further highlight a small waist.

While most Victorian ensembles featured a high neckline, there were some women who dared to show slightly more skin with a neckline like that pictured above, called the dcollett. This look was popular in France, where it was more acceptable to bare skin.

VICTORIAN ERA mens wear

An overcoat was necessary for men in the cooler months, and a popular version was the Chesterfield. This style is doublebreasted with a contrasting collar.

The tuxedo was introduced during the Victorian era. It differed from the morning suit in that all three pieces were matching in black. The jacket was usually made of wool and featured a silk lapel. A pin-tucked bib and white bowtie completed this formal look.

A typical Victorian morning suit consisted of three pieces; jacket, pants, and waistcoat. Unlike the suits we see today, the jacket and pants did not usually match. Instead, the man might wear a black jacket with plaid or pinstriped gray pants.

VICTORIAN ERA accessories

Gloves were essential to any ensemble and were often made by the women themselves. A bonnet and parasol would be worn to protect from the sun, as it was not acceptable to have tanned skin.

The mens nightshirt was also popularized during the Victorian Era. It is typical sleepwear for the time period, but would eventually be replaced by two-piece pajamas.

These hoops, called crinoline, were worn underneath a skirt to create fullness and emphasize a small waist. Crinoline was usually made of steel hoops with wide muslin tape.

EDWARDIAN ERA
1901-1919

INTRODUCTION

After the death of Queen Victoria in 1901, her son ,Prince Edward, and his wife, Alexandra of Denmark, took over the British throne. As a couple, they set many of the trends of the time with a style that was heavily influenced by art, specifically the Art Nouveau movement. Alexandra represented a much different woman from her mother-in-law, and promoted a softer, sexier silhouette. This era was also marked by significant changes in technology, philosophy, and politics by the likes of Henry Ford, Charles Darwin, and Oscar Wilde. The invention of the horseless carriage by Henry Ford influenced fashion in more ways than one. First, it brought about styles like the duster and beekeepers hood to be worn while driving. More importantly, it advanced the clothing manufacturing process with the creation of the assembly line. This lead to the installation of readyto-wear, and for the first time, designer fashions were available to more than just the social elite. Before the Edwardian era, fashion in the United States was directly translated from European styles. With the creation of the Gibson Girl, women were inspired by the first distinctly American style icon. Not only did this represent a sartorial change, but also an entirely new lifestyle. The Gibson Girl was youthful, independent, athletic, and modern; her face could be found on items ranging from posters to ashtrays. While she embodied the look of an American woman, the suffragette movement represented a change in attitude. Women of this era fought hard to increase their rights and eventually earned the right to vote in 1919.

EDWARDIAN ERA womens day wear

Members of the upper class began to adopt leisure sports into their every day lives. This included activities like golf, cycling, and swimming. Clothing needed to be more mobile and so the Edwardian Era marks the beginning of sportswear.

Afternoon tea was a popular daytime activity for any Edwardian woman. These dresses, called tea gowns, were typically made of chiffon or silk and sometimes actually dyed with tea. This was a softer and sexier silhouette made popular by Alexandra of Denmark.

Also at this time, separates became popular with the development of the shirtwaist, a shirt-style blouse. The pouter pigeon silhouette emphasized a small waist and rounded hips as seen on the Gibson girl above.

EDWARDIAN ERA womens evening wear

In the spirit of Orientalism, Paul Poiret promoted his clothing with extravagant costume parties. For these events, guests wore elaborate ensembles, such as this fancy dress, complete with harem pants and a turban.

Inspired by kimonos, the cocoon coat was worn in the evening and often made of velvet, silk, or wool with one closure at the front. Sometimes trimmed with fur or embroidery, this style would remain popular well into the 1920s.

The influence of Art Nouveau on fashion is undeniable. Characterized by graceful exaggerated lines and natureinspired motifs, this movement fit perfectly with a generation that was known for living in grand style.

EDWARDIAN ERA mens wear

In the Edwardian Era, the drape suit became popular as the first suit with three matching pieces. It was also known as the sack suit, and featured a loose, comfortable jacket with no waistline and straight-legged pants. This style was most often worn by the middle class. Comparable to the womens dressing gowns of the period, men often wore smoking jackets in their homes. These were typically silk, velvet, or brocade long-sleeved short jackets decorated with buttons.

A few styles of mens outerwear became popular during this period, including the Mackintosh as rainwear and the Norfolk jacket pictured above. This style was noted for its attached fabric belt in the same material as the coat itself.

EDWARDIAN ERA accessories

Both men and women embraced the boater as a popular summer accessory in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This circular straw hat would remain popular until the 1940s.

Accessories too were influenced by the art movement of the period. The lace design on the fan below expresses the sweep and naturalism of Art Nouveau style.

An Edwardian ensemble was not complete without extravagant accessories, as evidenced by the monarch of the time, Alexandra of Denmark. Alexandra curls became popular; this hairstyle featured tight pin curls at the forehead. Women also adopted her pearl and diamond chokers, known as the Alexandra collar.

JAZZ AGE
1920-1929

INTRODUCTION

The Roaring Twenties represent a departure from the traditions of the previous decades. New technologies, including modern automobiles, moving pictures, and radio made anything seem possible. Jazz and dancing rose to popularity at the same time and represented a young attitude not seen in previous decades. Flapper style became the biggest trend of the decade; these women were modern and young and enjoyed new freedoms granted to them by the 19th amendment. They did all the same things as men; including smoke, drink, and swear. Some went as far as to look like men; these women, known as garonnes, donned boyish silhouettes and wore little makeup and short hairstyles. By the 1920s, Victorian ideals were completely gone and women saw fashion as both trendy and as a social statement. Flappers did away with the corset and for the first time wore knee-length dresses, exposing their legs and arms. Celebrities such as Irene Castle popularized the bob hairstyle, of which there were several variations. Cosmetics were not socially accepted in American society until the 1920s because of their association with prostitution. Clothing became simpler and innovative fashions were therefore more accessible to those outside of the upper class. New retail formats also contributed to the idea of mass fashion; by this era consumers could acquire clothing from department stores, specialty shops, mass merchants, mail-order catalogs, and door-to-door salespeople. Other events impacting fashion and society included the discovery of King Tuts tomb, sparking an interest in Egyptian beading and makeup, the invention of new fibers including Rayon and Acetate, prohibition, and the stock market crash of 1929.

JAZZ AGE womens day wear

Jeanne Lanvin, a French designer, was inspired by childrens wear. Her designs featured youthful details, such as bows.
Jean Patou, known as the Father of Sportswear, designed clothing that women could wear to sporting events. He was also the first designer to put his name on his garments.

The flapper represented a look completely different from that of the Gibson Girl of the Edwardian Era. She wore short dropped-waist dresses, heavy kohl eyeliner, and oxblood lipstick.

JAZZ AGE womens evening wear

Coco Chanel was known for her use of unpretentious fabrics, clean lines, and a practicality found in her garments. These contributed to the creation of the little black dress, now considered a staple in any womans closet.

Silk pajamas were adapted from mens smoking jackets. Women wore them as party hostesses to show they were comfortable in their own home.

Jeanne Lanvins Robe de Style represented a different silhouette than that of the typical flapper. It featured a close-fitting bodice, natural waistline, and a full bouffant skirt reaching the calf or ankle.

JAZZ AGE mens wear

Below is an example of a tuxedo from the 1920s. It should be noted that this style is not much different than the original tuxedo, introduced in the Victorian Era.

Plus fours were worn by men of all ages during the 1920s. This look was adapted from the classic knickerbocker with a fuller leg.

Cake Eaters were the male version of the flapper. They wore slicked back hair, widelegged oxford bag trousers and sometimes a raccoon fur coat. This look is typically associated with college students.

JAZZ AGE accessories

Cloche hats were popular with flappers. It was a tight-fitting style that covered the head down to the back of the neck. Flappers wore it pulled down over their forehead to show off their short hair styles.

Dancing was a popular evening activity in the 1920s. The T-Bar shoe was designed just for this purpose as the straps would keep it in place during the Charleston.

The corselet was an adaptation of the corsets worn in previous decades. It combined a bra top and corset to maintain a sleek look under clothing.

ERA OF ESCAPISM
1930-1939

INTRODUCTION

In an era marked by the Great Depression, the biggest influence on fashion was found in Hollywood. Men and women flocked to the theaters in an effort to escape the reality of everyday life. Style icons of the day included Marlene Dietrich, Jean Harlow, Joan Crawford, and Fred Astaire. Daywear was fairly conservative as women returned to a more feminine silhouette than that of the 1920s. Evening wear was evidence of the impact of Hollywood glamour. Women wore form-fitting gowns and fur coats for nights out around town. Madeleine Vionnet is the designer most associated with this look as she invented the cowl neck and used shiny fabrics and a bias cut to emphasize light and shadow, especially on screen. This period also saw the the first widespread use of synthetic fabrics, as nylon began being massproduced in 1938. It was used most often in lingerie and sleepwear. More casual fabrics like cotton jersey were being used by prominent designers including Coco Chanel, thus becoming more widely used in various types of garments. Suntans and resort wear saw a rise in popularity as well as people began to travel to exotic locations. Other Important designers of the time included two Italians; shoemaker Salvatore Ferragamo and designer Elsa Schiaparelli. Ferragamo was influenced by the Art Deco movement, characterized by abstraction, geometric shapes, intense colors, and distortion. Schiaparelli was more influenced by Surrealism, and even collaborated with artist Salvador Dali on her Circus Collection. She brought a whimsical attitude to the fashion world with her shocking trompe loeil designs and is seen as the first real competitor to Chanel.

ERA OF ESCAPISM womens day wear

Katharine Hepburn was a Hollywood starlet of the era, and a symbol for the Womens Free Spirited Liberation. She wore pants before it was socially acceptable for women to do so.

Most day dresses featured small prints to create visual appeal. This was necessary in a time where beading and embellishments were scarce.

English tailors that initially only made mens suits began creating suits for women as well. Called streamliners, these suits featured a very slim, tailored silhouette.

ERA OF ESCAPISM womens evening wear

Designed by Gilbert Adrian for Joan Crawfords role in Letty Lynton, this dress was recreated by Macys and sold over 500,000 replicas. The film took place in the Victorian Era but the dress took on an entirely 1930s silhouette.

While art decos influence is most evident in jewelry designs, the geometric print on this evening gown characterizes this style.

Elsa Schiaperelli wanted to make designs that were fun, as evidenced in this dress decorated with musical notes. She focused primarily on evening wear and womens suits.

ERA OF ESCAPISM mens wear

The drape suit remains popular throughout the 1930s, as the silhouette of mens clothing is aligned with that of womens. It became narrower at the beginning of the decade and then became broad shouldered toward the end.

Cary Grant was seen as the epitome of sophistication in the 1930s. He popularized vests and the double-breasted suit as seen below.

The zoot suit was typically worn by Hispanic and African American men as an antiwar statement. It was characterized by a long jacket with broad shoulders, wide lapels, and a narrow waist.

ERA OF ESCAPISM accessories

Salvatore Ferragamo is most known for the creation of platform shoes. He became the go-to shoe designer in Hollywood in the 1930s, outfitting stars from Marilyn Monroe to Greta Garbo.

Bed jackets became popular over nightgowns and were a great way to show off new synthetic fibers.

Oxfords were another fashionable shoe of the decade. They were low cut, laced over the instep, and perfect for walking. This was crucial as many people made an effort to save money on gasoline and public transportation.

WAR YEARS
1940-1949

INTRODUCTION

From 1939-1945 the United States was involved in World War II, which dominated all aspects of life, including fashion. Governments imposed strict restrictions on clothing production throughout the world. In the United Kingdom it was called the Utility Scheme. A team of seven designers cooperated with the Board of Trade to prescribe yardage of material and trimmings to be rationed. The responsibility lay with the designers to alter their designs to stay in line with these prescriptions. The system in the United States was slightly less strict. There, a coupon system was in place limiting the amount of goods any consumer could purchase, ensuring that everyone received their fair share of items ranging from groceries to apparel. Clothing designs became much more creative in the ways that fabric was used. Dresses were made to look like suits and other such trompe loeil effects made garments look more expensive than they actually were. The silhouette included a full skirt, hemlines at or above the knee, and typically a puffy sleeve. When Christian Dior introduced the bar suit in 1947, we also saw a return to emphasizing the waistline with restricting undergarments. During the war the United States was cut off from Europe, giving American designers the opportunity to show off their talents without the competition of French couturiers. Claire McCardell was the most original American designer of the time, known for creating simple and easy-to-wear dresses in informal fabrics. McCardell, along with other designers, introduced the world to American sportswear, a category in which the country is now internationally recognized for its prowess. These casual clothes were important as many women were forced to go to work in factories where fussy ensembles would not be practical.

WAR YEARS womens day wear

Christian Diors New Look is best portrayed with his bar suit. This style features a full pleated skirt, silk shantung jacket with peplum skirt, and emphasizes the wearers small waist.

American designer Claire McCardell recognized that women needed more casual clothing for everyday life. She used fabrics for their washability and durability. She is also responsible for popularizing patch pockets as seen on the model above.

Over 15 million women worked in factories during the war years. Women wore coveralls or borrowed clothes from their husbands closets to be worn on the job.

WAR YEARS womens evening wear

Weddings during this era were typically rushed and rather small affairs. Brides wore something similar to a regular day dress so that they could continue to wear it after the wedding.

Even though Edward Molyneux was part of the Utility Scheme during the war, he also created beautiful evening gowns such as the one pictured above.

Evening gowns were often complicated and elaborately constructed. They were frequently boned and strapless, such as this Dior example.

WAR YEARS mens wear

Hawaiian or Aloha shirts were popularized by President Harry Truman and became a casual fad at the outset of the war.

With most men serving in the war, mens suit styles stayed relatively static in the 1940s. Boxy short coats, called British Warms, are an example of a new style influenced by clothing rationing.

Brown leather, fleecelined jackets worn by bomber pilots during the war became popular with civilians and continued to be worn in peacetime.

WAR YEARS accessories

Lilly Dach was a French milliner, famous for her Avant garde designs. Here she is pictured modeling one of her own creations.
As women were encouraged to make do with what they had, and nylon became scarce, pantyhose were not as readily available. Women began painting their legs and drawing seams with eyebrow pencils to give their legs a more polished look.

Victory hairstyles were promoted for women in the factories. Long wavy styles like that of Veronica Lake could get caught in machines while at work.

AGE OF CONSUMERISM
1950-1959

INTRODUCTION

Much like the 1930s, trends in the 1950s were heavily influenced by the Hollywood starlets of the time. These included the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Doris Day, and Grace Kelly; each with her own distinct style. This was no different for men, as this was the era of the Rat Pack; composed of Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy Davis Jr., amongst others. War veterans that had been wearing military uniforms in the previous decade, looked to these men for style inspiration. By 1950, five million American families had television sets in their homes, making fashion trends more accessible than ever. The Ed Sullivan Show was particularly popular and showcased musicians and the trends they represented as well. As men returned home from the war, many went to work in the advertising industry. For the first time, clothes were being marketed to women for completely fabricated reasons. The cocktail dress is an example of this phenomenon. Advertisers created a need for a dress that women could wear while entertaining with their husbands that was not as formal as a traditional evening gown. Expectations for female beauty were high and women went to extreme lengths to look as ladylike as possible. The two silhouettes of the period emphasize a womans figure in different ways. The full silhouette placed great emphasis on the waist, a tradition that was brought back to the forefront by Christian Diors New Look. The slender silhouette was a very slim-fitting look that showed off every curve.

AGE OF CONSUMERISM womens day wear

A group of young people, called the Beatniks, had a look that was distinctly different from the mainstream silhouettes. They listened to jazz and read poetry while wearing dark clothing. Audrey Hepburns character in Funny Face best displays this style and attitude.

The cotton shirtwaist dress became popular with 1950s housewives. It typically buttoned up the front, cinched at the waist, and came in a variety of collar styles.

The sack dress, created by Spanish designer Cristobal Balenciaga, was a waist-less chemise style. This was first seen as very shocking and set the stage for a more relaxed 1960s silhouette.

AGE OF CONSUMERISM womens evening wear

The two main silhouettes of the decade were the slender silhouette and the full silhouette. The slender version was more popular with single, working women, and the full silhouette was based on Diors New Look and held on to the Victorian ideal of a small waist. Hubert de Givenchy opened his fashion house in France in 1952. His designs were very feminine and emphasized the purity of line. He famously dressed Audrey Hepburn in evening gowns for Sabrina (pictured below) and Breakfast at Tiffanys.

British designer Charles James was known for his very feminine designs. This evening gown, the Four Leaf Clover dress, is one of the most studied garments in fashion history due to its complex structure.

AGE OF CONSUMERISM mens wear

Popularized by James Bond, this era saw the first mens evening wear alternative to the tuxedo. This look featured a white sport coat, black or white cummerbund and bowtie, and black tuxedo pants with a satin side stripe.

James Dean characterized the bad boy look of the decade. Here he is seen wearing jeans, a white tshirt, and a windbreaker jacket on the set of Rebel Without a Cause.

Working class British teens, known as Teddy Boys, were the foundation for the punk movement. They were inspired by Edwardian fashions and wore long jackets, cuffed sleeves, waistcoats, and narrow trousers.

AGE OF CONSUMERISM accessories

In line with the high expectations for a womans appearance in this decade, women in the 1950s would not be seen outside the home without their hat or gloves.

Makeup was an important part of any womans ensemble in the 1950s. A finished look included red lipstick, liquid eyeliner, false eyelashes and long red fingernails.

Stilettos were created in Italy during the 1950s. This was a high, nail-like heel made of nylon or plastic around a steel core.

SWINGING SIXTIES
1960-1969

INTRODUCTION

The 1960s mark a new era in the fashion world. Now there were distinctly different groups each with their own styles. Older people, middle-aged adults, teens, and young adults dressed in varying ways, most in more casual styles than those seen in previous decades. The biggest emphasis was on the youth generation; it was during this era that baby boomers reached their teen years. This youth focus began in the United Kingdom and came to the United States with the British Invasion as British designers, musicians, and models dominated the fashion scene. The most notable British designer from this period is Mary Quant; famous for popularizing the miniskirt. Her short designs were met with resistance as schools, churches, and workplaces sought to impose hemline restrictions. Young people were also looking for a new way to shop and so the boutique format was born as Mary Quant and other designers opened up small shops on Carnaby Street in London. At the same time, multiple social changes were occurring in the United States. Betty Friedans The Feminine Mystique inspired the feminist movement, fighting for political, economic, and social equality for women. This translated into the fashion industry as it became socially acceptable for women to wear pants in the 1960s. The Civil Rights Movement also carried into this era, as African Americans fought for equal rights and the elimination of segregation. The Black Panther Party was important player in this movement and inspired trends similar to the Beatniks of the 1950s. Other African inspired trends included traditional hairstyles and loose colorful pullovers for men and women, called Dashikis.

SWINGING SIXTIES womens day wear

The Mod look became popular with young men and women during this period. This Italian style was very clean cut and tailored. Mods would often be seen wearing long parkas and riding Vespas.

Twiggy was the style icon of the decade as she modeled for many popular designers, such as Mary Quant. Her waiflike frame was perfect for showing off Mod looks and miniskirts.

More conservative women continued to wear suits, such as this collarless Chanel version. Her suits were popular with the first lady, Jackie Kennedy, as well.

SWINGING SIXTIES womens evening wear

Pierre Cardin led a new wave of Parisian designers inspired by technology and the space age. His garments combined unnatural geometric shapes with the natural contours of the body. While Norman Norell was most prominent in the 1940s and 1950s, he also dressed first lady Jackie Kennedy throughout her time in the White House and created crisply shaped evening gowns like the one pictured below.

Yves St. Laurent started the Left Bank Movement in Paris with designs that were meant to express the very essence of fashion. He blended couture designs with contemporary art movements that appealed to the newly important youth segment.

SWINGING SIXTIES mens wear

Brits were not the only musicians to have an influence on fashion in the 1960s. American rock stars such as Jimi Hendrix broke away from mens wear conventions and wore dramatic styles as part of the Peacock Revolution.

As part of the British Invasion, the Beatles were particularly influential in bringing Italian Mod styles and shaggy haircuts to the United States.

Older men in the 1960s continued to dress like on-screen characters such as James Bond and the Avengers.

SWINGING SIXTIES accessories

As a style icon of the decade, Jackie Kennedy was known for her European style. She popularized street-length dresses, pastels, and the pillbox hat. This hat style was created for her by Halston. It is characterized by its small oval shape, straight sides, and flat top. As hemlines rose, women looked for new ways to cover their legs. Patterned or brightly colored pantyhose complimented shorter dress styles and added depth to otherwise simple outfits. London stylist Vidal Sassoon popularized blunt, asymmetrical cuts with different variations on the bob cut throughout the decade. His most famous style was known as the five point cut as pictured below.

ME DECADE
1970-1979

INTRODUCTION
In the fashion world, the 1970s brought an overall casualization of clothing and many styles that may have been seen as extreme during the 1960s gained wider acceptance with advances in civil rights, environmental activism, and womens equality. Gloria Steinem was a feminist activist who promoted women as part of corporate America and inspired them to dress for the part. Pants become more popular with women and Calvin Klein introduces the first pair of designer jeans in this era. The Vietnam War lasted until 1975, and many young people spoke out against it and specifically opposed the draft system. They were known as hippies and wore their hair long, their feet bare, and mixed traditional ethnic styles with new ones such as bell bottoms. Fashion designers such as Betsey Johnson and Zandra Rhodes were inspired by this movement and created their own hippie designs. Also influencing fashion were movies and leisure activities of the time, including disco and roller derby. Polyester became the miracle fabric and was widely used in apparel for its washability and vivid colors. Today, this material is seen as fairly inexpensive and of poor quality, and so many people associate this decade with bad fashions.

ME DECADE womens day wear

Inspired by sailors trousers, bell bottoms were a daywear staple for men and women in the 1960s. They are similar to the hipster pant but have a wide bell shape from knee to ankle.

Short shorts, also known as hot pants, were brought to the mainstream in the 1960s. Often made in velvet or shiny nylon with a side stripe, this trend coincided with the popularity of roller derby.

Malcolm McLaren and British designer Vivienne Westwood created the punk fashion style for the band the Sex Pistols. This look was characterized by torn shirts and jackets decorated with heavy chains, oversized crosses, safety pins, and plaid.

ME DECADE womens evening wear

Originally an Olympic skier in Italy, Emilio Pucci became famous in the 1970s for his bright psychedelic prints in silk jersey fabrics that were perfect for travel.

American designer Halston focused on creating garments from luxurious fabrics cut into simple shapes. His halter styles were often seen at the popular Studio 54 disco in New York City.

The hippie movement inspired all aspects of fashion, including evening wear. This dress is a mix of traditional and ethnic prints in earth tone colors, typical of the hippie style.

ME DECADE mens wear

Piggybacking onto the Peacock Revolution of the 1960s, men felt more comfortable experimenting with fashion in the 1970s. Younger men opted for elaborate colors, patterns, and styling.

The safari suit was a variation on the mens leisure suit, popular in the early 1970s. The patch pockets and long jacket are typical of this look.

Saturday Night Fever was an influential movie in the 1970s; men readily copied John Travoltas disco look. This included a white polyester leisure suit with wide lapels, bell bottoms, and patent leather loafers.

ME DECADE accessories
The most popular hairstyle of the decade was popularized by Charlies Angels star, Farrah Fawcett.

Faux fur became fashionable in 1973 when laws were put in place against big cat hunting.

Platform shoes were worn by both genders in the first half of the 1970s. These styles were inspired by the 1930s and ranged from half inch heels to more extreme heights as the pair pictured above.

VICTORIAN ERA bibliography

Day gloves (ca. 1895). Retrieved October 6, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHstfFs%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Dinner dress (ca. 1895). Retrieved October 5, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHopeFo%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Dress, Afternoon (ca. 1855). Retrieved October 4, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHQke1s%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Green evening gown (1887). Retrieved October 5, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHQidFU%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Men in checkered trousers (1853), Men in Overcoats (1872). Retrieved October 6, 2011 from http:// www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=35 Nightshirt (ca. 1900). Retrieved October 6, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHslcV4%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Parasol (ca. 1880). Retrieved October 6, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHUrdF0%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Riding costumes (ca. 1890). Retrieved October 4, 2011 from http://www.bicycleapparel.com/womens.html Scarlet drill corset & cage crinoline (1866). Retrieved October 9, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ ViewImages?id=8CJGczI9NzldLS1WEDhzTnkrX3gpdlN%2BeSo%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Victorian silhouettes (2008). Retrieved November 25, 2011 from http://lady-of-crow.deviantart.com/art/VictorianSilhouettes-83666275 Victorian tuxedo (ca. 1870). Retrieved October 6, 2011 from http://www.victoriana.com/victorianmen/victorianmen.html Wedding bonnet (1837). Retrieved October 9, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHsoeF4%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams=

VICTORIAN ERA bibliography

White ball gown (ca. 1872). Retrieved October 5, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHUlfV8%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Womans afternoon dress (ca. 1860). Retrieved October 4, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8jNTaD4kJDgpQSg6fz16Rw%3D%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams=

EDWARDIAN ERA bibliography

Alexandra of Denmark (ca. 1900). Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://royaleurope.blogspot.com/ 2010_10_01_archive.html Art Nouveau dress (1910) Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWXwreVs%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Boater hat (ca. 1910). Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHgmdFg%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Cocoon coat (ca. 1910) Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWXwrelM%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Day suit (ca. 1900). Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHQgeV0%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Edwardian Silhouette (2008). Retrieved November 9, 2011 from http://www.fashion-era.com/images/Silhouettes/ 1910blksilshoulders.jpg Fancy dress (1917) Retrieved November 15, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/images/Corbis-BE034495.jpg? size=67&uid=63ab9565-ac27-4186-bb95-911c395eeb09 Folding fan (ca. 1900). Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHUhd1w%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Gibson Girl (ca. 1905). Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://jan-raindropsroses.blogspot.com/2011/04/gibson-girl.html

EDWARDIAN ERA bibliography

Golf (ca. 1908). Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8CJGczI9NzldLS1WEDhzTnkrX3gicVl8eSA%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Norfolk jacket (1906). Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://www.middlegames.info/norfolk-jacket-fashion-plates-mennew.html Smoking jacket (ca. 1910). Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHorfFI%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Teagown (ca. 1900). Retrieved October 15, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHsseF0%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams=

JAZZ AGE bibliography

Cloche hat (ca. 1925). Retrieved November 1, 2011 from http://favim.com/image/17312/ Corselet (ca. 1925). Retrieved November 1, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHgof1o%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Flapper (1927). Retrieved November 9, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/images/Corbis-42-20041458.jpg? size=67&uid=78faf05d-af32-4cf0-8bc3-a29555b78746 Flapper silhouette (2008). Retrieved November, 20, 2011 from http://www.fashion-era.com/images/silhouettes_black/ 1925blksil.jpg Lanvin day ensemble (ca. 1926). Retrieved October 16, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWX0qdVU%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Little black dress (1926). Retrieved October 20, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-19191216/model-wearing-chanel-dress?popup=1 Patou day dress (ca. 1927). Retrieved October 16, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHUjf1w%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams=

JAZZ AGE bibliography

Plus fours (ca. 1925). Retrieved October 20, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHQhflU%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Robe de Style (1926). Retrieved October 16, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHouflQ%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Silk pajamas (1920). Retrieved October 20, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8CJGczI9NzldLS1WEDhzTnkrX3gpd1FwdyY%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= T-Bar shoes (ca. 1929). Retrieved November 1, 2011 from http://billyjane.tumblr.com/post/226839149/mudwerks-the-flappergirl-metal-garters-1930s Tuxedo (1927). Retrieved October 20, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWXwuels%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Women admiring fashionable man (1925). Retrieved November 1, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/ rights-managed/U299984INP/women-admiring-fashionable-man?popup=1

ERA OF ESCAPISM bibliography

1930s man (1933). Retrieved November 10, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-20041535/1930s-man-in-suit-and-hat-holding?popup=1 1930s silhouette (2008). Retrieved November 20, 2011 from http://fashion-era.com/images/silhouettes_black/ 1935blkharlow.jpg Art Deco evening dress (1933). Retrieved November 10, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHspfls%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Cary Grant (ca. 1935). Retrieved November 10, 2011 from http://thegentlemanblog.wordpress.com/2010/ Katharine Hepburn (ca. 1935). Retrieved November 1, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/BE046717/katharine-hepburn-in-the-philadelphia-story?popup=1 Letty Lynton (1932). Retrieved November 10, 2011 from http://goldenhollywoodera.com/_files/Image/ JC_Letty_Lynton.jpg

ERA OF ESCAPISM bibliography

Nightgown (ca. 1935). Retrieved November 9, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHoqfVM%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Platform sandals (!938). Retrieved November 9, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHUnfVk%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Schiaparelli evening dress (1939). Retrieved November 10, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHQje1g%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Spectator oxfords (ca. 1940). Retrieved November 9, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHUkfVI%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Two smiling women (1938). Retrieved November 1, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-26195374/two-smiling-women-walking-out-doorway-of?popup=1 Womens suit (1936). Retrieved November 5, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ BE027508/woman-modeling-new-fall-suit?popup=1 Zoot suits (c. 1940). Retrieved November 10, 2011 from http://atfashionsourcebook.blogspot.com/

WAR YEARS bibliography

1940s silhouette (2008). Retrieved from http://www.fashion-era.com/C20th_costume_history/blacksilhouettes-1940-1950.htm American airmen (1942). Retrieved Novemer 12, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ HU043915/american-airmen-boarding-b17-flying-fortress?popup=1 Bar suit (1947). Retrieved November 9, 2011 from http://cdn1.bergfashionlibrary.com.proxy.library.vcu.edu/doc/v-a/ images/full-2006BG1266.jpg;jsessionid=662EFDDABD9B921673357907EEC4CE62 British warm (1951). Retrieved November 12, 2011 from http://cdn4.bergfashionlibrary.com.proxy.library.vcu.edu/doc/v-a/ images/full-2006AV6273.jpg;jsessionid=662EFDDABD9B921673357907EEC4CE62 Coveralls (1945). Retrieved November 9, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHQjfFU%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams=

WAR YEARS bibliography

Dior evening dress (1949). Retrieved November 10, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-24375527/woman-in-christian-dior-holding-fan?popup=1 Hawaiian shirt (ca. 1949). Retrieved November 9, 2011 from http://library.artstor.org/library/secure/ViewImages? id=8DJQaTUiLSEkKyAiFTx5RnooWHsoeV4%3D&userId=gjFBdzYs&zoomparams= Lilly Dach (ca. 1950). Retrieved November 12, 2011 from http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/0/0e/ Lily_Dache_checking_out_her_hat_design.jpg McCardell summer outfit (1949). Retrieved November 10, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/RZ002787/mrs-r-fulton-cutting-modeling-summer-outfit?popup=1 Molyneux evening dress (1946). Retrieved November 10, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/RZ001756/woman-modeling-sheer-white-dress?popup=1 Painted-on nylons (ca. 1942). Retrieved November 14, 2011 from http://1940s.org/fashion/the-great-nylon-depression-ofthe-1940s/ Rita Hayworth (ca. 1942) Retrieved November 12, 2011 from http://heres-looking-like-you-kid.com/category/rita-hayworth/ War bride (1942). Retrieved November 9, 2011 from http://www.fashion-era.com/wedding_pics_1940s.htm

AGE OF CONSUMERISM bibliography

Balenciaga sack dress (1957). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://smallnottall.blogspot.com/2010/04/history-offashion-excerpts.html Butterick 9265 dress (1960). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://mollyandmango.blogspot.com/p/projectbutterick-9265-1960-dress.html Four leaf clover ball gown (1953). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http:// www.bergfashionlibrary.com.proxy.library.vcu.edu/view/cis/14265.xml?isfuzzy=no&q=charles +james&result=9&rskey=wlFsT2

AGE OF CONSUMERISM bibliography

Full and slender silhouette (1957). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http:// www.bergfashionlibrary.com.proxy.library.vcu.edu/view/bewdf/BEWDF-v9/EDch9066/ED_f9660002.xml? isfuzzy=no&page=1&placeAdditionalFacet=1882&result=3&rskey=OpdR4D&t1=1882%7C1900-1999&t2=1888%7C1950-1 959&type=image&zoom=medium Funny Face (1957) Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://www.fashionodor.com/audrey-hepburn-this-month%E2%80%99sstyle-icon/ James Dean (1955). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://www.bergfashionlibrary.com.proxy.library.vcu.edu/view/ bewdf/BEWDF-v10/EDch10312/ED_f103120001.xml? isfuzzy=no&page=5&placeAdditionalFacet=1882&result=93&rskey=w076YY&t1=1882%7C1900-1999&t2=1888%7C19501959&type=image&zoom=medium Sabrina (1954). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/SF33406/ audrey-hepburn-and-william-holden-in-sabrina?popup=1 Stiletto (1956). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/HU001857/ stiletto-shoe?popup=1 Teddy boys (1954). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ U1263899INP/portrait-of-some-londonteddy-boys1954?popup=1 Tuxedo alternative (1953). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ BE030826/boy-helping-prom-date-from-car?popup=1 White gloves and hat (1955). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/42-19930636/1950s-glamourous-woman-long-white-gloves-and?popup=1 White summer dress (1957). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-24912344/actress-millie-perkins-modeling-a-white-summer?popup=1 Woman applying lipstick (1952). Retrieved November 18, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/42-23248725/woman-applying-lipstick?popup=1

SWINGING SIXTIES bibliography

Bob hairstyle by Vidal Sassoon (1965). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/42-25160328/bob-hairstyle-by-vidal-sassoon?popup=1 Chanel suit (1963). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ U1452120A/female-model-posing-in-new-tweed-parisian?popup=1 Colored tights (ca. 1960). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ AABE001317/edie-adams?popup=1 Jacqueline Kennedy (1961). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-29616419/jacqueline-kennedy?popup=1 Jimi Hendrix (1969). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ DZ006612/jimi-hendrix-playing-at-woodstock?popup=1 Mary Quant silhouette (ca. 1962) Retrieved November 20, 2011 from http://celestemkaufman.wordpress.com/ 2011/05/26/100-defining-moments-in-fashion/ Mod couple (1966). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-21585314/mod-couple-outside-of-diner?popup=1 Norell evening gown (1964). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ U1452133/model-wearing-evening-gown-by-norman-norell?popup=1 Pierre Cardin shift (1964). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ U1467517/modeling-a-pierre-cardin-dress?popup=1 Sean Connery as James Bond (1964). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/U1506289A/sean-connery-as-james-bond?popup=1 The Beatles (1964). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-16507208/the-beatles?popup=1 Twiggy (1967). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/42-20375326/ twiggy-in-floral-print-dress?popup=1

SWINGING SIXTIES bibliography

Yves St. Laurent evening gown (1965). Retrieved November 22, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/U1475214/model-wearing-yves-saint-laurent-creation?popup=1

ME DECADE bibliography
1970s silhouette (ca. 2011). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://stockcutouts.com/popup_image.php? pID=1552&image=0 Bell bottoms (1976). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-20040328/1970s-young-woman-with-long-curly-hair?popup=1 Denim safari outfit (1971). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ BE052478/robert-chernin-in-denim-safari-outfit?popup=1 Farrah Fawcett (1977). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ AX022089/farrah-fawcett?popup=1 Fashion model on velvet sofa (1972). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/AAJG001052/fashion-model-on-velvet-sofa?popup=1 Fashionable menswear (1973). Retrieved from November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/HU006051/fashionable-menswear-1973?popup=1 Faux fur (1972). Retrieved November 28, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-16398734/french-singer-michel-polnareff?popup=1 Halston evening dress (1979). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/42-26121079/halston-1980-spring-collection?popup=1 High platform shoes (1972) Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ HU015673/high-platform-shoes?popup=1 Hot pants (1971). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-20040314/1970s-studio-portrait-woman-teenage-girl-in?popup=1

ME DECADE bibliography
John Travolta on the set of Saturday Night Fever (1977). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/ stock-photo/rights-managed/0000302236-080/john-travolta-on-the-set-of-saturday?popup=1 Pucci evening dresses (1976). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rightsmanaged/U1884103/models-wearing-long-dresses-on-the-street?popup=1 Vivienne Westwood in punk attire (1977). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/ rights-managed/42-19732577/vivienne-westwood-in-punk-attire?popup=1 Woman in bodysuit (1972). Retrieved November 26, 2011 from http://www.corbisimages.com/stock-photo/rights-managed/ 42-23247125/woman-in-angora-turtleneck-bodysuit?popup=1