PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE SATEEN AND SATIN WEAVES In pure sateen and satin structure The

e surface of the cloth consists almost entirely either of warp or weft float. It is so because in each repeat, each thread of one series (i.e. either warp or weft) passer over all except one thread of the other series. The interlacing points are so arranged as to allow the floating treads to over the binding points of one thread by the float of another. This results in the production of fabrics with a maximum without degree any of smoothness weave and lustre and prominent features. Sateen

indicates a weft faced construction, while satin is used with reference to a warp faced structure. Thus sateens are constructed with a greater number of picks/inch than ends per inch and satins have more ends than picks per inch. REGULAR SATEENS AND SATINS Sateens and satins are made by rearrangement of regular twill. This rearrangement may be made in accordance with an arithmetical formula to obtain the interval of selection. It determines the position of intersections or binding points. This interval of selection is any number (exept the last but one) which has no common factor with the number of threads in the repeat of the weave. Thus on Eight threads only moves of 3 and 5 is used. On 10 threads it is 3, 7 only are the allowed moves or interval of selection. Copyrights Reserved with Priyank Goyal , pg2000in@gmail.com, pg2000in.googlepages.com

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Let us take the 5 end sateen, only possible moves are 2, 3 How to construct- Step by Step Method Step-1: Construct a 5-end regular twill 1 up 4 down

(2)

Now off set the 2 nd mark by 2 (for a move of 2) it will be

(3)

Similarly offset the third by a move of 2 (with respect to) 2 nd as

Now complete the weave obeying the similar steps as given previously:

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

5-end Sateen (on 3 move) Irregular sateens and satins Regular sateens can not be constructed on four and six threads because there is no number which has not a common factor with four and six. However there can be produced irregularly i.e. without any rules. For example for a six-end sateen the steps can be 1. Count 2 to the right for 2 picks

2. Count 3 to the right for one pick

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

3. Count 2 to the left for two picks

Similarly for an Eight end irregular satin the steps will be. Step 1 : Count 3 to the right for four picks. Step 2 : Count 4 for one pick to the right Step 3 : Count 3 to the left for Remaining picks The design is given as:

Thus we can generalise the rule for filling irregular satin and sateen as:

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE 1. First, 50% of the picks are filled with its original counting number. 2. 3. For next pick we take counting number as half the number of repeat size. The remaining picks are filled in according to the original counting number but in the opposite direction. 4-end erregular satin is also called as satinette. Advantage: Irregular satins are free from twill lines a feature that frequently give them an advantage over regular sateens. Some other Satin and Sateen Weaves Venetian Weave This is produced by indicating an additional weft float above each blank of the original 5-thread satin.

Note that here o means weft up. Buckskin Weave This is produced just like the venetian weave, the only difference being that it is done on 8-thread satin.

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE

Swansdown, lambskin or imperial weave This is based on the weft sateens, but in this case, the design is developed by introducing additional warp floats alongside the original interlacing points.

These constructions are used in the production of very heavy weft-faced cotton fabrics that are employed as protective clothing in stituations in which a considerable degreee of wear is expected. Extension of Sateen Weaves Sateen weaves may be extended horizontally, vertically or both horizontally and vertically. The advantage of extension of sateen weaves is that with the same number of healds, longer floats are formed on the surface of the cloth than is the case with ordinary sateens.Also the extended sateens may be readily employed as bases in the constuction of new weaves. The figure below is an example of horizontal extension of

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE sateen weave: Similary sateen can be vertically extended as given in the figure below:

Both horizontal and vertical extension of the sateen weave is shown by the following figure:

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE SUMMARY OF SATEEN/SATIN WEAVES Structuring process Intertacing float over 4 or more yarns before a single interlacing (4/1, 7/1 or 11/1) Float in warp direction (satin), float in filling direction (sateens) Identifying the weave Warp faced fabrics have vertical floats while filling faced fabrics have horizontal floats Shining surface on both sides if structured with smooth, shiny yarns. Performance characteristics Flate lustrous smooth surface Surface slides easily for linings Float results in fewest number of interlacing among plains, rib or twill weaves and therefore yield highest potential yarn count. Long floats
7 1 , 11 1

and filament fabrics subject to

sagging and poor abrasion resistance. Short floats

4 1 , 1 4

and spun fabrics can be tough

compact, durable fabrics with low luster.

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PRIYANK GOYALS LECTURES ON FABRIC STRUCTURE Common fabrics by identifying characteristics Weight Transparency Type yarns Light to Opaque heavy Medium Opaque Medium Opaque Spun Warp fil filling spun Medium Opaque to heavy Spun Light count yarn Chino flannel Sateen Antique satin Filament Satin Others Name

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