FAQ

What type of models of starlets are there?

KP61, EP71, EP82, EP91

What is my compression ratio of my motor?

GT/Glanza 8.2:1
EP82/91 NA 9.6:1

What power does my Starlet put out?

GT 100KW motor (Turbo)
EP91 55KW motor (NA)

What boost settings does my GT run?

Low setting: 6psi ( .4 Bar)
High setting: 9psi ( .6 Bar)

What motor does my starlet run?

1990-1995 GT EP82 4EFTE 1331cc
ADM EP91 4EFE 1332cc

What will my starlet run down the 1/4 mile?

GT: High 14's-Low/Mid 15's
NA: High 16's-17's

What does my starlet weigh?

EP82 830-860KG's
EP91 830KG's

What PCD/Offset is applicable to my Starlet?

Starlets run 4x100PCD
Offset +38mm to +40mm

How can I make my EP91 look like a Glanza?

You will either have to source the parts through a supplier, or buy a fully dressed
front cut transfer the panels to your car and either sell the turbo motor or use it to
convert your car to turbo also.
How can I best improve my starlets handling?
Getting your starlet to handle exceptionally well is not hard, some aftermarket rims
in 15" or 16" will improve handling, also good quality lowered springs and shocks
are the easiest ways to improve the handling. After this consider rear swaybar,
adjustable coilovers, adjustable panhard bar, rear strut brace, aftermarket front
strut brace, camber bolts

How can I best improving my starlets braking?

For most starlets some upgraded disc pads would be enough, If your not happy
with your stopping power then consider acquiring some slotted rotors for the front
with upgraded brake pads, Or custom calipers from another car.

What parts can I get for my import starlet? Can I use parts from the
Australian delivered Starlet? Part Numbers?
Please check this thread below, It is a parts number database compiled by the
users of the forum and it will assist in acquiring parts for imported starlets and
locally delivered ones. Thread can be found at
http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15

Im thinking about Turbo charging my N/A starlet or swapping a Turbo engine

into my car
This has been discussed many times and there is a thread on this topic, Viewable
here: http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=496

What is Fuel/Boost cut and when does it activate?

Fuel/Boost cut is a safety device implemented into your ecu. It is monitored
through your map sensor so that if yout boost levels get too high the ecu will cut
fuel and stop a situation where you might possibly ruin your engine. Fuel cut
activates at 14psi (1 Bar). If you want to run higher then this with the standard ecu
then you need a device called a Fuel cut defender ( FCD ), or to remove the fuel
cut altogether upgrade to an aftermarket ecu.

When im driving my GT in higher gears the car is going then I feel a sudden
los of power for a moment, what causes this?
You are hitting fuel/boost cut, it will be easy to tell, you will be hard accelerating
then it will feel like the brakes and been applied hard while your still trying to
accelerate. You will find it will be easier to hit fuel cut if you: run a pod filter, have a
dump pipe and large exhaust, have a bleed valve installed and set for a higher
then standard boost setting or a combination or all of the mentioned modifications,
also prone to happen more often on a cold night.
What can I do to stop hitting fuel cut but I want to run boost levels close to
the cut point?
If you are running a manual boost controller (bleed valve) you have no control on
how the boost will build as you accelerate and your rpm increases, If you install an
electronic boost controller, you can achieve much stabler boost levels, bring boost
on harder and faster, run multiple boost level settings, and eliminate boost spikes.

What is a FCD? (Fuel Cut Defender)

A fuel cut defender is a device that will bend the signal the ecu receives. Fuel cut is
set at 14psi, But a FCD can bend the signal so the ecu will think your running say
13psi, when you really might be running 16 or 17psi...... This can be bad if you
have not upgraded your fuel system to inject larger amounts of fuel while your
running more boost. This is because the ecu is receiving the bent signal form the
FCD and it thinks the car is runnning 13psi, so it will only inject enough fuel for 13
psi when you may be really running 16-17 which can cause a bad situation if the
engine leans out as you may destroy the engine.

Bodykits:

Some bodykits for the EP91 and EP82:

EP91 kits - avail from Jetspeed and DMD

EP82 front bar like one on Mr GT's car - XRacing Sydney

Curvey skirts & TOM'S replica front bar - DMD
Also EP82 shit from Bodykits.co.nz

Turbo Starlet Performance:

What are some good easy mods that can be done to achieve good
performance/power?????

Air Filter: A good panel filter or a pod filter will give slightly increased performance,
in some states a Pod must be enclosed but this also makes sense to protect it from
hot engine bay air and have a cold air feed to it.

Exhaust: Get rid of the standard cat and replace it with a Hiflow cat further down
the system, Custom dump pipe of 3" dia, and either a full 3" System will suit larger
turbos, or if you plan to run the CT9 for now and upgrade later, It would be more
cost effective to purchase a large exhaust now rather then buying one then having
to upgrade it again later.

If you plan to keep the CT9 and never bother to upgrade it: 3" dump pipe down to 2
1/2" system (hiflow cat also). Be aware that if you remove the standard cat off the
car you will need to have another installed as it is ILLEGAL to run a car without a
cat convertor and if your are caught you will get a BIG fine......

Intercoolers: The starlet runs a standard Air to Air top mounted intercooler this is
ok for fairly standard cars but they do suffer a lot of heat soak, So there are a few
good upgrades that can be done:

Upgrading the TMIC to a larger TMIC: This can be done through the use of a S4/5
Rx7 IC there is a large write up in the DIY section for this and how to do it and what
is required.

Front mounted Intercooler: This is most popular intercooler upgrade that is chosen
when upgrading: A large intercooler mounted behind the front bar that is a lot less
prone to heat and receives a great deal more air and cooling efficiency is greatly
increased. Lag will be more noticeable with standard/upgraded turbos compared to
the standard TMIC. Expect to pay around $600-$1000 for installation of the cooler
itself, custom piping made, also depends on what type of steel used: mild steel will
be cheaper then stainless.

Water to air intercooler: This intercooler has great cooling efficiency coupled with
very short piping, This equals to very little lag. The most costly to have installed in
your car. Also need other components such as a radiator to cool the coolant, good
water pump, good brand core etc. Traders on the forum can supply these so be
sure to check out the trader section!!!!!

Turbo: Standard turbo CT9, can push 12-14psi after that its out of its efficiency
range. Options: Highflow CT9 (Basically rebuild the turbo and install larger wheels)
Can run the standard manifold and will be bolt on.

Aftermarket turbos: Good popular turbos for the 1.3L are: Nissan T25/T28,
TD04L off a WRX, also Garret GT25 turbo. Obviously running any of these turbos
will need a new manifold, exhaust changes, Also engine modifications to be able to
support this turbo: Injectors, Fuel pump, ECU, also a radiator thats a little bit
narrower to allow the easier fitment of the turbo suzuki swift radiators are wel
suited for this application there is a DIY thread on this.

ECU: This is a commonly asked and deated question on what is the best ECU to
have in your starlet? The answer is easy: You will need to source an ecu that will
be well suited to the application, pick an ECU that is well supported in your local
area, There is no point in buying a flash top of the line ECU if there is no one within
200km's to tune it for you. There are now becoming ECUs that are plug and play
easy installation and you can have a preloaded base map so the car will be
driveable. Two of the more preferred ECUs are made by Microtech and Autronic,
check the traders section for more details on them, also Wolf is releasing ecus for
the starlet as well now. This doesnt mean that you cant get anything else, other
ecus can be wired into the loom to run the car.

Engine componentry: Now things are starting to cost big $$$$ If your are
chasing big power then it will come at a cost, Starlet engines seem to be able to
withstand up to around 200 FWHP before problems occur, The most common
problem is that the ringlands in the pistons crack then giving you poor compression
and big headaches..... It all depends on the motor condition and how well its been
looked after, There have been a few starlets with over 200FWHP running without
problems and some with under or close to 200 breaking ringlands... If your
chasing big HP numbers then its probably safe to say that you have a large budget
to help you achieve this, Custom pistons and rods would be the first things on the
shopping list, but also headwork, upgraded valve springs, new or aftermarket oil
pump, seal kit,

Dec 1989 - Jan 1992 Mk1

040 - Super White 2

185 - Bluish Gray Metallic

3H4 - Red Mica Metallic

6L2 - Blackish Green Metallic

8H1 - Grayish Blue Metallic

(Example Required)

040/4L5 - Super White 2 over Beige Metallic

3H4/4L5 - Red Mica Metallic over Beige Metallic

6L2/4L5 - Blackish Green over Beige Metallic

Jan 1992 - May 1994 Mk2

040 - Super White 2

182 - Bluish Gray Metallic

205 - Black Metallic

6M6 - Green Metallic

205/182 - Black metallic over Bluish Gray Metallic (GT Limited)

May 1994 - Jan 1996 Mk3

040 - Super White 2

199 - Silver Metallic

205 - Black Metallic

746 - Turquoise Metallic

205/182 - Black metallic over Bluish Gray Metallic (Advance Model)

Glanza V 97-98 (Mk1)

040 - Superwhite II

205 - Black Metallic

3E5 - Super Red II

1A0 - Bluish Silver

8K9 - Purplish Blue

Glanza V 98-99 (Mk2)

040 - Super White II

205 - Black Metallic

3E5 - Super Red II

1AO - Bluish Silver