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Costume Designers Guild

Local 892I.A.T.S.E.
11969 Ventura Blvd., First Floor
Studio City, CA 91604
costumedesignersguild.com
The Official Magazine of the Costume Designers Guild
Non-Profit Org.
U.S. Postage
Paid
Santa Ana, CA
Permit No. 450
Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 3
COSTUME DESIGNERS GUILD
11969 Ventura Blvd., First Floor
Studio City, CA 91604
phone: 818.752.2400 fax: 818.752.2402
costumedesignersguild.com
GENERAL CDG CORRESPONDENCE
cdgia@costumedesignersguild.com
COVER
CD Ann Roth
re-defines Mildred and Veda
for the HBO miniseries
Mildred Pierce
Editors Note . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Union Label . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Presidents Letter
Executive Director
Labor Report
The Costume Department . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Meet the Assistants
History of Dress
In Focus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Location: Wilmington
Boldface Names
Whats On/Whats In . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Scrapbook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
DEPARTMENTS
FEATURES
Clothes on Film . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Chris Laverty: Blogger and Cheerleader
24 16 10
vol. 7, issue 2
2011 CALENDAR
May
24 Mixer with Local 705 at Vitellos
June
1 Interview Skills at Local 80
2 Design Showcase UCLA
6 Eboard Meeting
20 General Membership Meeting,
CDG Studio 800
July
4 Office closed
2123 Comic-Con
August
1 Eboard Meeting
4 The Costume Designer Spring 2011
veryone has something different on their minds this spring,
as you will see by the wide variety of topics covered in the
Union Label letters. My thoughts run the gambit as well. I
too am recovering from the emersion of the fourth quarter
aka Awards Season. The winter magazine, overlapping with the
CDG Awards, leave me needing to thank some people myself.
Firstly, the never mentionedhard-working team at IngleDodd.
Our fabulous publishers who make our magazine, newsletter,
directory AND tribute book happencost-FREE to the Guild. Jeff
and Jody Ingle who lead the ship with kind hearts and a dry sense
of humor, Dan Dodd and his team, including Timothy Fitzpatrick
& Jennifer Dodd who book the voyage with a smile, Gilda Garcia, Erica Ruter-Christensen,
and Ruth Kaplan who have helped me lay out every magazine, and Mike Chapman who
scours every word. Thank you all for never saying no, never saying its too late, and
for always understanding that the details really do matter. I would also be remiss in not
thanking F Ron Miller, the very talented graphic designer who has helped me make the
past three awards books so much more stunning than I could have imagined on my own
(and in full disclosure is my boyfriendthanks to JL Pomeroy inadvertently introducing
us to collaborate via cyberspace).
On the topic of cyberspace, Ive found that more and more of my work as a Costume
Designer relies on my computer. With projects moving at the speed of light, and scripts
changing even faster, I find myself in need of research at a moments notice. Research for
that first meeting, research for the studio presentation, research for the costumers and so
on. Most recently for me its been the mixed bag of dance, military, detectives, waitresses,
extreme sports and a little Kim Kardashian. Period research is considerably more avail-
able, but how do you research real people, or reference for a 50-something woman for
example? Try Match.com and J Date! Seriously. You have to be very resourceful but its all
out there. Facebookalso a great way to uncover regular people and their family photos.
Once youve done the research, what about your website? The days of approving your
costumes with only the director and producer are basically over. In the current climate of
studio and network approval, are you making your life easier with a website for your fitting
photos? Its also the perfect venue to share
the research youve compiled with Hair &
Make-Up. You might consider giving in to
the more efficient way of getting everyone
on the same page in a timely fashion. Its
much easier than you think.
What does all this have to do with
the magazine? With all the time Ive spent,
chained to my desk, multitasking, Ive
uncovered the other secret source for
research. The blog. When its simply not
out there, and Google Images and the like
are coming up empty, its the bloggers
who will come through. The blogger is
someone who has made it their mission to
focus on a time or a place or a topic that
might be exactly what youre looking for.
Somewhere in my surfing, I tripped onto
Clothes on Film, a delightful blogsite that
is featured on page 10.
Embrace the Web and enjoy the
ride. Theres so much out there for the
learning.
Until next time,
Deena Appel
dappel@costumedesignersguild.com
EDITORS NOTE
E
EDITOR/PHOTO EDITOR
Deena Appel
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Bonnie Nipar
PRESIDENT
Mary Rose
mrose@costumedesignersguild.com
VICE PRESIDENT
Van Broughton Ramsey
vramsey@costumedesignersguild.com
SECRETARY
Beth Pasternak
bpasternak@costumedesignersguild.com
TREASURER
Marilyn Matthews
mmatthews@costumedesignersguild.com
EXECUTIVE BOARD
Deena Appel
dappel@costumedesignersguild.com
April Ferry
aferry@costumedesignersguild.com
Salvador Perez
sperez@costumedesignersguild.com
Cliff Chally
cchally@costumedesignersguild.com
Felipe Sanchez (Illustrators)
fsanchez@costumedesignersguild.com
BOARD ALTERNATES
Robert Blackman
rblackman@costumedesignersguild.com
Julie Weiss
jweiss@costumedesignersguild.com
Mark Bridges
mbridges@costumedesignersguild.com
Sharon Day
sday@costumedesignersguild.com
BOARD OF TRUSTEES
Peter Flaherty
pflaherty@costumedesignersguild.com
Jacqueline Saint Anne
jsaintanne@costumedesignersguild.com
Karyn Wagner
kwagner@costumedesignersguild.com
Wendy Chuck (alternate)
wchuck@costumedesignersguild.com
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
Rachael M. Stanley
rstanley@costumedesignersguild.com
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT
Suzanne Huntington
shuntington@costumedesignersguild.com
RECEPTIONIST/SECRETARY
Cheryl Marshall
cmarshall@costumedesignersguild.com
PUBLISHER
IngleDodd Publishing
ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Dan Dodd 310.207.4410 x236
Advertising@IngleDodd.com
costumedesignersguild.com
WE APPRECIATE THE ONGOING
SUPPORT OF OUR
CORPORATE SPONSORS

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RUBY LEVEL
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6 The Costume Designer Spring 2011
Springtime Thank Yous to Everyone
Dear Members,
The great feeling from our very successful 2011 CDG Awards still resonates as everyone continues to talk about
what a special night it was. With each new accolade, I say to myself, How are we going to top it next year?
Well, I suppose we need to find another Julie Weiss! Unfortunately, there is no double for Ms. Weiss. Julies tal-
ent combined with her personality and magic touch make her one of a kind. The actors who have collaborated
with Julie clearly respect her commitment and love her spirit. And they sure showed up in full force to honor
her. Never before have six mega-stars fought to present to one designerall happily sharing their stories on stage
before handing Julie the first of its kind, the Disaronno Career Achievement in Film and Television Award. Julies
acceptance speech was equally as memorable. We all laughed until we cried. It was a wonderful night that we
will never forget.
There wasnt enough time allocated for my speech to pay tribute to those who worked so very hard behind
the scenes to make our 2011 awards such a hit. I would like to take the time and space here to thank the following
people who made things happen behind the scenes. Firstly, the team from jLINE Group: Sarah Cowperthwaite
(CDG Awards Event Producer and Talent Booker), who brought in the most incredible group of celebrities
this year and Deme Stavrakas (Assistant to JL Pomeroy), for producing the 2011 montages with Q&A Video
Productions Quinn Monahan and Gregory Gast as Editors. Great work! Thank you. CD Bonnie Nipar who fit our mistress of ceremo-
nies (this year in Oscar de la Renta) and dressed our on stage DJ Eve Salvail. Robin Richesson, one of our gifted CDG Illustrators, who
rendered the beautiful period & contemporary tennis players on the invite and tribute book covers. Needless to say, our fabulous
presenting sponsor, Lacoste, was very pleased with the artwork. And I cannot forget my Co-chair Deena Appel, who worked end-
lessly with JL Pomeroy to secure our honorees for the night as well as being totally responsible for the invitation, tribute book and
nominee projections seen throughout the night. Thank you. Last but not least, my thanks to JL Pomeroy, who is our most devoted
partner and who should be an honorary member at this point. Without her, there would be no CDG Awards!
Less than a month after the awards, the sobering news of a magnitude 9.0 earthquake hit Northman Japan; as unbelievable tsunami
photos were seen over and over again on television. I wrote about it in the CDG Newsletter and encouraged donations to the Japanese
Red Cross via the Consulate of Japan. Not
more than a week or so later, I had to have
spinal surgery. Word was out and I received
so many good wishes and kind notes from
colleagues and members for a fast recov-
ery. My deepest thanks go to all of you for
your thoughtful caring and kindness on
both accounts. I sincerely appreciate your
thinking about not only me, but also the
Japanese victims at this very difficult time.
I am doing very well, and I am so grateful
for having such decent caring people as my
friends.
With love and respect,
Mary Rose
mrose@costumedesignersguild.com
PRESIDENTS LETTER
UNION LABEL
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M
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L.A.s Only One Stop Costume Shop
WESTERN COSTUME CO.
MADE TO ORDER
LADIES COUTURE
She was Tzetzi Ganevs right hand for over 20 years and for those of you who
dont know her, let us introduce Nancy Arroyo. For the last three years she
has been Western Costumes Head Cutter/Fitter and has successfully tack-
led challenging projects including making custom clothing for musicians and
lm actresses. We are proud to add that her garments have been seen on
the runway during New York Fashion Week for several seasons.
MILLINERY
From crowns to caps to cloches, veteran milliner Harry Rotz draws on more than
30 years of experience to create the perfect look to t any designers needs. His
unique expertise ranges from perfectly copying period hat pieces to creating the
most imaginative headwear for fantasy movies.
TAILORING
While many call themselves custom tailors, few truly live up to the name. Nestor Alban
and Jack Kasbarian have been Western Costumes head tailors for the past 12 years.
From ne mens custom suits to spacesuits and everything in between, Nestor and
Jack are perfectionists in every detail of their work.
SHOE SHOP
Mauricio Osorio has been creating custom footwear for over 25 years at Western
Costume. Among the items on his resume are shoes and boots for Russell Crowe
in 3:10 to Yuma, Kate Winslet in Titanic as well as replica Ruby Slippers and sev-
eral pairs of shoes for Shaquille ONeal. In addition to his skills with custom shoes,
Mauricio manufactures a wide variety of leather goods. Mauricios leather garments
have been seen on the runway during New York Fashion Week.
CORRECTIONS
BOLDFACE NAMES:
CD Ileane Meltzer is currently
designing the USA series In Plain
Sight. CD Maria Schickers film
still from Dunkel (shot in Germany)
was incorrectly identified.
Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 9
In a technical world where the latest thing is only the latest thing for a matter of months, we have become a society
that too quickly, tosses many of our valuable assets to the side. We are working to change that.
The Costume Designers Guild was formed in 1953 and many of our earliest members are still working in the
industry or are recently retired. We at the Guild realize the significant value of the members who have come before
us and set many of the precedents that we enjoy today. We have been exploring new ways to keep our heritage and
history alive and felt that our retirees have long been an ignored resource. Our newly formed Retirees Committee,
headed by Sharon Day, will begin to develop ways to honor our past members and keep them a vital part of our
growing legacy. This May, we will hold the First Annual Retirees Luncheon. This will allow many of our past mem-
bers to rekindle relationships and share their rich history with each other as well as with our current members. The
interest in this event has been overwhelmingly positive, showing us how important this new program will be. We
are now developing Master Classes to be taught by our retired members as well as our current members. Many of the
techniques of days gone by are still just as valid today, and there are no better teachers than the original generation
of Designers who implemented their ideas into a fledgling new industry.
We have also found our retirees to be of great service as we begin to partner with universities and colleges on
how to better prepare students to meet the demands of this ever-changing industry. While all things change many
things remain the same.
We are expanding our website to include an area just for retirees and those about to retire. As our members
approach the final years of their careers, they are faced with many daunting decisions. The new website area will
provide information on Medicare, pension issues, how to prepare financially for retirement and how to mentally prepare oneself for a
life without the daily grind of work. Many of our recent retirees have expressed the feeling that after years of working 12 to 14-hour
days, they are suddenly at a loss for how to fill the day in a productive manner. They also miss the daily contact with other members
and coworkers in the industry. The new website area will open doors to opportunities for volunteer work in the community and the
industry, secondary job possibilities, and social events to help keep our retirees connected to us, their sisters and brothers.
We are very excited about this new program and look forward to the many new ideas our active retirees will bring to
the table.
In Solidarity,
Rachael Stanley
rstanley@costumedesignersguild.com
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
UNION LABEL
GONE BUT NEVER FORGOTTEN
LABOR REPORT
There is so much
to report, as col-
lective bargain-
ing rights are
under attack
from the newly
elected gover-
nors in several
states trying
to link budget
deficits with
the workers
rights to bargain collectively. We demand
these governors be called to account and
admit that the budget deficits are not caused
by workers right to collective bargaining.
On March 26 in downtown Los Angeles,
20,000 people rallied in support of the work-
ers in Wisconsin in their effort to recall Gov.
Scott Walker and to kill the bill taking away
workers bargaining rights. Other elected
representatives in Wisconsin who were in
support of Walkers attack on workers rights
are being recalled.
On April 4 at the AME Church of Los Angeles,
2,500 people gathered to honor the memory
of Dr. Martin Luther King, who was murdered
April 4, 1968, in Memphis, Tenn. Wisconsin
bratwurst provided by IBEW was served to
all and Rev. James Lawson and William Lucy,
who were with King the day of his assassina-
tion, were the key speakers. They reminded
us that workers in Wisconsin are fighting the
same fight in 2011 that King and sanitation
workers fought in Memphis in 1968. Rev.
Lawson stressed the point that only the people
speaking out in unity can preserve workers
rights, and that we need to be committed to
protecting workers rights across the United
States and around the world.
The May Day Rally for Immigration Reform
numbered around 25,000 supporters, who
gathered at Broadway and Olympic down-
town (pictured below). Speakers addressed
federal immigration reform while immigrant
students supporting the Dream Act chanted
Stop Deporting Dreams.
In Solidarity,
Betty Madden
bmadden@costumedesignersguild.com
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10 The Costume Designer Fall 2010
hris Laverty is a professional Costume
Design Cheerleader. And Clothes on
Film is the evangelical pulpit from which
he preaches all things Costume Design.
Via blog, he can profile the subtlety of
costume choices made in contemporary
films as well as the P.D.Period Dramas
(aka Press Darlings). Current releases or
a loving look back, the site may elaborate in great detail on
every costume worn by the lead character or choose to dissect
a singular costume for the importance it brings to the plot.
Rich with frame grabs to illustrate each and every nuance of
design. Clothes on Film will freely let you know if they smell
a costume misstep but it seems to come from a more sympa-
thetic than critical place.
Launched in mid-2009, Clothes on Film has already been
noticed by film buffs, costume enthusiasts and fellow bloggers
alike. In its first year, Clothes on Film was named Internet
Pick of the Week by The Guardian and recently nominated
by Total Film as Blog of the Year. Currently attracting
100,000 hits a month, Chris has interviewed the likes of CD
Jenny Beavan who believes Chris passion for film clothes and
provocative questions must help the general understanding
of what we do. He even has an idea for a pair of trousers for
Sherlock if we ever do another! Judianna Makovsky has said
that her cyber dealings with Chris have been delightful. His
pleasure in finding out the little details that most people dont
notice makes his a challenging but rewarding interview. I
stumbled on the site last year when Black Swan was receiv-
ing a slew of press surrounded by a swirl of controversy. Chris
was one of the few who covered the film from the perspective
of the films Costume Designer, Amy Westcott. His unusual
understanding of the difference between costume and fashion
stayed with me. I couldnt help but check back week to week
to see what he would cover next.
Born in the UK, Chris worked at Pinewood Studios as a
teen before graduating in York, with an honors degree in the-
C
Clothes
on
Film
CHRIS LAVERTY
Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 11
Belle de Jour
April 12, 2011
Public Enemies:
Costume as Plot
Public Enemies is chock-full of accurately re-
created and as such eminently covetable, early
1930s era garments, as designed by multi-
Oscar winner Colleen Atwood. Perhaps most
enticing of all, however, is how one particular
garment, a plain wool overcoat, actually pow-
ers the narrative of the lm. It is the coat that
killed John Dillinger.
February 11, 2011
Basic Instinct:
Sharon Stone,
Devil in a White Dress
There is far more going on here than an ab-
sence of underwear. It is the white dress that
exposes her true character. Catherine [played
by Sharon Stone] is so intelligent she can hide
in plain sight. The twist in this tale is only
really apparent because we underestimate her
deviance. Beautiful and smart? There must
be a catch. We spend the rest of the movie
searching for it. Quoting CD Ellen Mirojnick
in an inclusive interview, I like the choice of
white, Mirojnic states. It is in opposition to
black. There is always tension in opposition. I
like to use white in unexpected ways.

January 28, 2011
Black Swan:
Amy Westcott Interview
Amy Westcott: As a Costume Designer,
you oversee every stitch that goes before
the camera. You are responsible for every-
thing, whether an item is designed by me,
purchased, farmed out to a specialized item
designer or a combination of all of these. I
think that is greatly misunderstood. The job is
a 24/7, a ve- or six-month commitment.
November 9, 2010
TRON: Legacy
Light Suit Costume
In TRON: Legacy, the light suit exemplies two
key facets of the mythology: light, as in energy,
and disclifeblood of the wearer. This suit
is a meticulously designed second skin that
integrates seamlessly into director Joseph
Kosinskis vision of the TRON story universe.
ater and film. He wrote a few short films, worked on shorts and
documentaries, interned at a production company but always
looked at Costume Design as he puts it, like a kid staring
through a sweetie shop window. Now, he finds himself caught
in a whirlwind of interest in Costume Design. He actually cant
write quickly enough for his readers. Not a day goes by without
a series of emails asking for coverage on a particular film or
show, and often the queries about whos wearing what. A ques-
tion Chris is not particularly interested in.
Chris curiosity about costume was initially peeked by what
he perceived as the fashion perspective. He says, I remem-
ber watching Casino in 1995 [CD Rita Ryack] at the cinema
and being blown away by the sheer color and variety of the
clothing. It got me thinking of the craft and how it had affected
my emotions throughout. Sometimes awe, sometimes funny,
sometimes shockingI was intrigued by the journey. His love
of the fashions of the 1970s led him to a desire to know how he
could replicate those looks. From there Chris explains, I delved
deeper, out of an obsessive need to understand it, and became
more fascinated by the what than the why.
A critical goal of this magazine is to educate the public
about what we do. How can you convincingly express the
difference between costume and fashion when the line is
so hazy? In following Chris blog, I realize how much we
can underestimate our audience. In his words, I perceive
costume as having so many functions: it can consciously or
subconsciously inform narrative, tell a story, reinforce a story,
misdirect a story, define character, drive plot, interpret mean-
ing or establish settingor all of the above. There is so much
going on with costume if you take the time to look. One of
my favorite movies for costume is Belle de Jour 1967 [Hlne
Nourry], because you can choose to interpret the clothes or
just ignore them entirelyan immersive experience, either
way. The meaning is there, if you choose to infer it.
April 11: How to Read Costume on Film
Costume Design remains one of the most misunderstood
and underappreciated filmmaking arts. Far in excess of merely
dressing an actor for their role, Costume Design is discourse.
A film can be read via costume; sometimes overtly, sometimes
subtextually. Not just the conspicuous sci-fi or period drama,
but contemporary stories set within a familiar world in familiar
attire. On screen even the most rudimentary item of clothing
can take on meaning. Chris goes on to say, The costume
film is saddled with the responsibility of satisfying an audi-
ence based purely on the protagonists appearing historically
accurate and/or alluring. Yet the costume film does not exist.
There are period dramas, comedies and love stories, but the
costumes enhance the narrative, they do not define it. For
more blog excerpts, check out the sidebar.
Clothes on Films readers (and its blogger) are equally
enamored with television Costume Design. We often ponder
the question, Is there a difference between film and television
12 Apr '11 11 Feb '11
28 Jan '11 9 Nov '10
Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 13 12 The Costume Designer Spring 2011
14 The Costume Designer Spring 2010
Costume Design? Not surprisingly, Chris has an instinctively
wise take on that debate. I see TV as having far longer to estab-
lish character. A movie might have minutes, even seconds to
introduce a character, particularly a minor one. Costume Design
in film does not have the luxury of time or growth; conversely,
TV more often than not does have time to build a character,
season after season. I so want to write an article about The Wire
[CD Alonzo Wilson]; the sheer scope was immense. From the
dealers street wear, to the detectives cheap suits, to the steve-
dores virtual uniform of plaid shirt and slackseverything was
immensely well researched. Take Wendell Pierce as Det. William
Bunk Moreland, for example. He was the smartest dressed
detective right from the pilot episode, but it took until season
three for his clothes to become noticeably luxurious and flashy.
Known for his style, Bunks costumes are even referenced in
dialogue, and it became one of the traits that defined him. Chris
is also keenly aware that Budget is also more of a factor in TV.
If a show is successful, it will likely have more money to play
with in proceeding seasons. He also appreciates that unless the
show in question is period, the cash rarely makes its way to the
Costume Department.
Clothes on Film regularly goes to the source for exclusive
interviews with Costume Designers such as The Tudors Joan
Bergin. Joan explains that she creates for characters, not cat-
walk. Chris points out, This is a common misconception of the
Costume Designers role. Sometimes there is overlap, intentional
or not, but costumes are intended to serve the narrative; any
allusion to contemporary fashion is either intentional if it is part
of the plot, such as in The Devil Wears Prada or inferred by the
audience. Chris has also been known to link to outside stories
that share his enlightened perspective. Harpers Bazaar recently
did a feature story titled Costume Designer Ann Roth: I Dont
Dress Movie Stars by Veronique Hyland. Chris included some
of the highlights on the site I dont dress movie stars; I dress
actors who are playing characters I think about how much
money they spent, where they go, does she have a drawer for
silk slips? said the legendary Roth while reconceiving Mildred
Pierce for HBO. Such understanding of not just period but
status of the characters living within it cements Roth as one of
the best in the business. Even if she continues to inspire fashion
trends with her costumes for Jane Fonda as Bree Daniels in Klute
(1971), for her this is a byproduct; it was never the goal. Ms.
Hyland reported for Bazaar in March.
Though based in the UK, more than half of Clothes on Films
devoted readership is from the United States. In the end, Chris
is broke but happy sharing his passion with his readers and fans.
My absolute dream is to get some cash behind the site so I can
concentrate on content rather than technical problems (I do it
all myselfself-taught and way out of my depth!). His other
dream would be to interview Costume Designer-turned-Producer
Anthea Sylbert (Rosemarys Baby, Chinatown, Shampoo). I for
one, am looking forward to that posting!
Deena Appel
dappel@costumedesignersguild.com
August 31, 2010
The Big Lebowski:
Jeff Bridges in a
Pendleton Cardigan
Of all the mismatched, gaudily patterned and
colored attire Jeff Bridges as The Dude wears
in The Big Lebowski (1998, directed by the
Coen Brothers), the ubiquitous Cowichan-type
Pendleton cardigan sums up his character
best of all. Threadbare, scruffy and in need of a
good wash, the pair sure do go well together.
Designer: Mary Zophres.
August 3, 2010
The Bourne Ultimatum:
Paddy Considine Wears
a Man Bag
Paddy Considine plays The Guardian journalist
Simon Ross in The Bourne Ultimatum (2007).
And thanks to Costume Designer Shay
Cunliffe, he wears a Belstaff man bag.
June 17, 2010
Jennifer Grey in
Dirty Dancing:
Baby Grows Up
In addition to script, acting and direction, the
most iconic moments in some of the best-
loved lms are dened in no small part by the
costumes. This can most certainly be said of
Dirty Dancing (CD Hilary Rosenfeld, 1987) in
that classic scene where Nobody puts Baby
in a corner, Johnny Castles (Patrick Swayze)
half-unbuttoned black shirt and equally rebel-
lious leather jacket with up-turned collar dene
him as the bad boy your Daddy would never
approve of, whilst Baby (Jennifer Grey) wears
a oaty, pale pink dress that gives her the
grace of a ballerina and the elegance of a dove
reecting her much purer nature.
To become a regular of Chris Lavertys blog,
bookmark www.clothesonlm.com
31 Aug '10
17 June '10
Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 15
16 The Costume Designer Spring 2011
THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT
MEET THE ASSISTANTS
Courtney Hoffman
courtneyehoffman@gmail.com
C
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The melodic sound of a Southern drawl that
booms through the workroom, belongs to
the one and only Stacy Caballero-Foushee.
The quaint and eccentric Donaldsonville,
Louisiana, is the eternal home to ACD
Caballero, who can often be found passing
out bags of Cajun-flavored potato chips to
her crew from a recent visit!
Now an ACD on intricately costumed
movies, Water for Elephants being her most
recent, Stacy works with a list of incredible
talent: CDs Kym Barrett, Michael Kaplan,
James Acheson, Michael Wilkinson and
Jacqueline West. The road to becoming
such an all-star ACD took years of dedica-
tion and hard work. Stacys dedication and
patience paved the way through a maze of
experience, from apparel design classes in
Louisiana to theater in Chicago to assisting
on soap operas, and everything in between.
CD Jacqueline West adds, Stacy is the best
Assistant Designer I have ever worked with.
She could easily be designing her own proj-
ects and soon will if I have anything to do
with it.
Kym Barrett describes Stacy as a won-
derful collaborator and tenacious spirit.
Bursting with personality, Stacy charms her
way through the workroom of her extend-
ed family and insists that relationships based
on trust will help you best achieve the cos-
tume designers vision. Michael Wilkinson
expounds, Stacy is the kind of ACD I dream
ofsomeone who cares as much about the
designs as I do. A perfectionist, she will not
rest until the issue is solved. Stacy advises
ACDs to check, check and recheck every-
thing. Its sexy to take responsibility for your
mistakes!
Whenever shes not at work, Stacy is
busy with her 3-year-old daughter Violet and
husband Ben. Balancing such a hectic career
and motherhood isnt always the easiest, but
Stacy makes it look possible with a smile
permanently adorning her face
stacycaballero@gmail.com
Christine Cantella didnt seek a life in cos-
tumes In 1993, this Texas native was
in college studying to direct when she
lobbied for an internship with the ADs
on a feature in San Antonio. Instead, she
landed in the costume department with CD
Deena Appel. Appel and supervisor Tangi
Crawford were so taken with Christines
dedication, incredible resourcefulness, and
riotous sense of humor that they insisted
she reconsider her path. Christine ultimate-
ly ran away with the circus.
Christines first film with Colleen
Atwood was finished before it started. Her
big break was prepping Minority Report
for six monthsuntil it was shut down and
later designed by Deborah Scott. She went
on to work with other designers but seemed
to really connect with Colleen. Mission:
Impossible III was when it all paid offwith
encouragement from ACD Michelle Harper,
Christine was hired as Colleens Assistant
Designer. Since then, her experience has
been more creative and rewarding than most
could hope for. From Planet of the Apes,
Big Fish and Lemony Snicket, to the Oscar-
winning Chicago, Memoirs of a Geisha and
Alice in Wonderland, Christine has been
working on the biggest and the best of proj-
ects. Colleen says, Christine stood out. She
has expanded her skills with each challenge.
I rely on her input and people skills greatly.
Growing up with a mother who taught
her about fabric and construction, Christine
feels honored to learn from the creative
genius of Dale Wibben, Karen Naser and
Deborah Ambrosino. She is forever grate-
ful to Colleen, an amazing decision maker
who has taught me not be too precious with
things you cant control. Christine adds,
Being a good listener is an asset. Be sup-
portive and honest. Offer your opinion to the
designer directly, not in a fitting or with the
director. Offer up the very best of what you
can find and give the designer time to think.
nellspeak@mac.com
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Just like Dorothy in the The Wizard of Oz,
Jessica Peel Scott hails from Kansas. When
her mother gave her a copy of Mary Quants
Quant by Quant, she was hooked. She studied
design at the University of Cincinnati. Craving
a deeper education in Costume Design, she
got her masters degree at Carnegie Mellon.
Always gravitating toward film, Peel left
Pittsburgh to try her luck in the west. Her
grad professor warned, Youll be back on the
East Coast in a year. Fifteen years later, Jessica
is happy to call Los Angeles her home.
Currently working on her 12th film
with Gary Jones, Oz: The Great and
Powerful, Jessicas yellow brick road has
been full of good witches. Upon her arrival
in Los Angeles, Jessica blind-called Carnegie
graduate CD Ann Roth who helped her get
a job at Western Costume. CD Ellen Lutter
gave Peel her first assisting position and
Ann Roth later recommended her to CD
Jones. Peel elaborates, I was so lucky to be
suggested to Gary Jones, hes so kind and
generous. Their affection is mutual. Jones
articulates: Jessica has had a very posi-
tive attitude and sunny disposition, which
she brings to every film, along with her
extensive knowledge, attention to detail,
and wonderful organizational skills. She
conducts herself with great respect for the
work and the people who do it.
Calm and down to earth, Peel recom-
mends to budding ACDs call everyone,
you never know what will pan out. Jessica
loves that every day brings new challenges.
She finds herself relying on her Kansas-bred
diplomacy, making her a reliable center for
any department. Jessica especially enjoys
made to order and putting her experience
as a fabric shopper to good use. I like build-
ing from scratch, the way it makes an actor
really think about the character.
Peel also knows theres no place like
home with her 4-year-old son Thomas and
supportive husband.
jpeelscott@charter.net
cant live without
sunglasses, platforms &
a good attitude
cant live without
her chihuahua Jack,
International Silks & Woolens
cant live without
my family & iced tea
18 The Costume Designer Spring 2011
THE COSTUME DEPARTMENT
BEAU BRUMMELL: An English dandy who
promoted well-tailored, understated clothing
of exquisite taste, worn with a fabulously tied
crisp cravat.
CRAVAT: Square of cloth,
folded diagonally into a band
and wrapped around the neck
to tie in front.
EMPIRE: Napoleons
reign (18041815), a
style of dress inspired
by the Greeks: simple,
slender, high-waisted dress-
es of light fabrics worn with flat
shoes.
HESSIAN BOOTS: At first, military boots
worn by Hessian soldiers (from Hesse in
Germany), knee height, low
heel, slightly pointed toes,
heart-shaped top with trim & tas-
sels.
MANTELETTE: Wide triangular scarf
or short cape worn over the shoulders,
trimmed on the edges with fur, lace
or ruffles. Sometimes the front edges
reached below the knees.
MUSLIN: A sheer,
unbleached cotton fabric,
originally made in Mosul,
Iraq, later Bengal, India.
The desire to reproduce this fabric in Europe was an
impetus for the Industrial Revolution. Eventually, also
became synonymous with trial garments made out of
the cloth.
PANTALOONS: Tight-fitting trousers to the calf (up
to 1817), then to the ankle, first worn by working-class
men during the French Revolution to differentiate them-
selves from the upper class, who wore breeches. From
the Commedia dellArte character Pantalone.
HISTORY OF DRESS 1800 1810
Illustrations by Robin Richesson
rrichesson@costumedesignersguild.com
Text by Marcy Froehlich
mfroehlich@costumedesignersguild.com
PELISSE: Long coat, opening
CF, often with raglan sleeves
& diamond-shaped back,
fur trim, and military braid-
ing. Sometimes the sleeves
were long enough to par-
tially cover the hand.
Inspired by the jacket
worn slung over the left
shoulder by Hussar cav-
alry officers.
RETICULE: Also called
Ridicule or Indispensible;
handbag for carrying the
fan, handkerchief, etc., as
the dresses had no pockets.
Soft fabric, with drawstring top
most common.
SPENCER: Small
jacket, high waist-
ed, usually darker than
the dress it was worn with.
Named for the Earl of Spencer,
who removed his tails from
a coat in the mid-1790s. (A
Spencer was also worn by
men.)
STOCK: Band of stiff-
ened cloth around the
neck tied or buckled at
the back.
Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 19
MALLS
Cotton Exchange
321 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 343-9896
Eight restored 19th-century buildings house
30 unique specialty shops and restaurants.
The Forum
1125 Military Cutoff Rd.,
Wilmington, NC 28405
www.shoptheforum.com
Shop specialty boutiques in Southern style
and grace.
Hanover Center
3501 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403
Across the street from Independence Mall.
Stores like Pier 1, Stein Mart,
Great Outdoor Provision Co., Talbots,
Shoe Shack, SAS Shoes
Independence Mall
3500 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403
www.shopindependencemall.com
Belk, Dillards, JCPenney, Sears, Forever 21,
The Buckle, Gap, Lane Bryant, Motherhood
Maternity, Abercrombie, Authentiks
Lumina Station
1900 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28403
www.luminastation.com
Independent high-end boutiques. Beach-
theme oriented, with handmade jewelry
and unique one-of-a-kind clothing.
Mayfaire Town Center
Main St. & Military Cutoff Rd.,
Wilmington, NC 28405
www.mayfairetown.com
New outdoor mall, with Belk and an eclec-
tic mix of both chain stores and favorite
local boutiques. Also has the towns only
Barnes & Noble and movie theater.
BOUTIQUES
Beanie + Cecil
Lumina Station
1904 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 509-9197
This store is a MUST! Inspired fashion from
established and emerging designers. Lines
include Phillip Lim, Helmut Lang,
Rag and Bone.
Edge of Urge
18 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 762-1662
Mens and womens young hip clothing for
the very cool DIY set. Lots of great jewelry.
Island Passage
(Downtown + Lumina Station)
4 Market St., Wilmington, NC 98401
(910) 762-0484
More of a bohemian aesthetic,
a Wilmington fixture.
Oliver
1055 Military Cutoff Rd. #103
Wilmington, NC 28405
(910) 256-2233
Ladies and menswear, extensive designer
denims. Lines like Current/Elliott, Geren
Ford, Rebecca Taylor, Joie, Ella Moss.
Will work on memo.
Planet
108 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 341-0036
Some very unique/hip treasures.
Popular with the indie kid crowd.
Redix Store
120 Causeway Dr.
Wrightsville Beach, NC 28480
(910) 256-2201
Local department store with beach clothes,
swimwear, hats, shoes.
Will work on memo.
Ropa, Etc.
120 S. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 815-0344
Specializes in comfortable clothing
in natural fibers.
Torri/Bell
The Forum
1125-J Military Cutoff Rd.
Wilmington, NC 28405
(910) 679-4081
Hip store with an L.A. vibe: Badgley
Mischka, Haute Hippie, Vince, William Rast,
DL 1961, Black Halo. Vintage Chanel
jewelry, trendy shoes.
SHOES
SAS Shoes
Hanover Center
3501 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 772-9994
Comfortable footwear, including
hard-to-find sizes and widths.
Shoe Diva
114 Princess St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 399-1637
Trendy womens shoes.
Shoe Shak
Hanover Center
3501 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 772-9993
Mens & womens fashion and comfort shoes.
MENSWEAR
Bloke Apparel LLC
7304 Cotesworth Dr.
Wilmington, NC 28405
(910) 679-4137
Great young fashionable menswear.
Ask for Michael.
Cape Fear Formal Wear
Independence Mall
3500 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 452-1106
Downtown
218 N. 3rd St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 762-8206
www.capefearformalwear.com
location, location, location:
IN FOCUS
Island d PPassage Hip t ith n L A ib B d l
Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 21 20 The Costume Designer Spring 2011
MENSWEAR
Gentlemens Corner
Lumina Station
1900 Eastwood Rd.
Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 509-3838
Style for the coastal life. Lots of colorful
sportswear, some suiting, shoes and
accessories.
Mens Wearhouse
3920 Oleander Dr.
Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 799-6664
Mayfaire Town Center
859 Inspiration Dr.
Wilmington, NC 28405
(910) 256-3529
SPECIALTY SHOPS
Doublewide Skate & Surf Shop
24 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 763-4807
Mens & womens & kids skater clothing
and accessories.
La Bella Forma
The Forum
1125 Military Cutoff Rd.
Wilmington, NC 28405
(910) 256-1220
Full line of bras: Sizes 32AA46K in stock!
Sweetwater Surf Shop
10 N. Lumina Ave.
Wrightsville Beach, NC 28480
(910) 256-8184
www.sweetwatresurfshop.com
Wetsuits, swimwear, and beachwear.
Will work on memo.
Tara Grinna
The Forum
1125 Military Cutoff Rd.
Wilmington, NC 28405
(910) 509-9999
Semi-custom swimwear, sewn locally.
Available in large cup sizes.
Tina Winesette Jewelry Design
1420 Quadrant Cir., Wilmington, NC 28405
(910) 228-4889
Local jewelry artist can make jewelry from
sketch.
VINTAGE & RESALE
aMuse Artisanal Finery
19 South 2nd St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 397-9099
www.hatshatshats.com
Milliner, vintage costume jewelry and
accessories. Wonderful MTO millinery.
A Second Time Around
143 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 343-1043
Premier consignment boutique.
Will work on memo.
Cape Fear Jewelry
3911 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 762-1310
Amazing estate jewelry.
Flashbax
30 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 762-9828
Awesome vintage store!
Past Elegance
103 S. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 251-9001
Mint condition vintage clothing, hats,
accessories; vintage lingerie and linens.
Contact owner: Pauline Hopkinson
Return Passage
302 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 92401
(910) 343-1627
Consignment resale store: clothing, shoes,
and accessories.
Jess James Style Girl Vintage
(910) 538-5657
jessjames7@gmail.com
Vintage collector and local resource.
Kerr Ave. Thrift Store Area
Between Randall and Wrightsville Ave.
Goodwill here is very popular.
Castle Street Antiques District
Castle Street has an array of antique and
vintage shops (pop in at Jesters Cafe for
lunch).
FABRIC STORES

Discount Fabrics
68 S. Kerr Ave., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 254-1287
JoAnns Fabrics and Crafts
352 S. College Rd.
Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 799-9377
Mary Jos Cloth Store
401 Cox Rd., Gastonia, NC 28054
(704) 861-9100
Quite a drive but worth it!

Mill Outlet Village
2515 S. College Rd.
Wilmington, NC 28412
(910) 392-0287
Dress, drapery, upholstery fabrics, and a
huge selection of trims.

EAT & DRINK
Bluepost Billiards
15 S. Water St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 343-1141
Very cool dive bar. Locals favorite.

Brasserie du Soleil
Lumina Station
1908 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 256-2226
Caprice Bistro Restaurant and Sofa Bar
10 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 815-0810
Quieter, dark, martini bar.
Copper Penny Pub and Restaurant
109 Chestnut St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 762-1373
Really good pub food with an extensive selection of beers
and microbrews.
Elizabeths
4304
1
/2 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 251-1005
Good authentic N.Y. Italian food and really great pizza.
Serves until midnight.
Hells Kitchen
118 Princess St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 763-4133
Built originally as a set for Dawsons Creek. Its a lively local bar.
Le Catalan French Caf and Wine Bar
224 S. Water St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 815-0200
A favorite French bistro on the Riverwalk. Great place
to watch the sunset.
Manna
123 Princess St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 763-5252
European/Southern American fusion using local seasonal produce.
Incredible food and a great mixologist!
Nikkis Fresh Gourmet
16 S. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 772-9151
Voted no. 1 by locals for sushi. Also serves vegetarian food and
sandwiches.
Port Land Grille
Lumina Station
1908 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 256-6056
Finest quality meats and fresh seafood prepared on a wood-fired
grill. Uses local seasonal produce.
Rafaella
6722 Wrightsville Ave., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 256-0702
Family-owned N.Y. Italian restaurant.
Satellite Bar and Lounge
120 Greenfield St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 399-2796
Local bar with a great vibe and amazing decor made from salvaged
materials. Live bluegrass jam every Sunday and the best bloody mary
in town! Co-owned by our own CDG member, Carol Cutshall.
IN FOCUS
Custom Manufacturing
Costume Rentals Prep Spaces
and 2011 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. All rights reserved
Always a perfect t! Always a perfect t!
818.954.1297
www.wbcostumedept.com
COSTUME
D E S I G N C E N T E R
70
22 The Costume Designer Spring 2011 Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 23
IN FOCUS
EAT & DRINK
The Basics
Cotton Exchange
319 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 343-1050
Elegant twist on soul food favorites like house-smoked BBQ,
meatloaf, mac n cheese. Yummm!
MISC.
Natures Way Drycleaning
4409 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 791-8844
1705 Eastwood Rd., Wilmington, NC 28405
(910) 256-9042
Green dry cleaners, industry-friendly.
Thread FX
20184 U.S. Hwy. 17 N., Hampstead, NC 28443
(910) 270-5031
Embroiderers. Very industry-friendly with a fast turnaround.
L&B Monograms Plus
Carolina Beach, NC 28428
(910) 458-6912
Embroiderers. Can do lots of specialty work very quickly.
Contact: Linda Dameron
Port City Java
21 N. Front St., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 762-7339
2099 Market St., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 763-3724
Best coffee in town!
Loveys Natural Foods and Caf
1319 Military Cutoff Rd., Wilmington, NC 28405
(910) 509-0331
Like a Whole Foods.
Tidal Creek Coop
5329 Oleander Dr., Wilmington, NC 28403
(910) 799-2667
Best place for grocery shopping. Produce from local organic farms.
Riverfront Farmers Market
00-100 N. Water St., Wilmington, NC 28401
Every Sat. 8 amnoon, Apr.Dec. featuring local farmers, bakeries,
butchers, artists and crafters.
Atlantic Dental Group
Sarah Pless, DDS, Denise Pinson, hygienist
1301 Physicians Dr., Wilmington, NC 28401
(910) 762-0958
COMPILED BY
Bonnie Nipar bnipar@costumedesignersguild.com
SPECIAL THANKS TO OUR CONTRIBUTORS
Carol Cutshall, Dan Moore, Pam Miller, Jess James
Costume Rentals
Manufacturing
Alterations
Fitting Rooms
& Offices
FI LMMAKERSDESTI NATI ON. COM
818.777.2722 800.892.1979
NBC Universal
Hats for lease or purchase: 1950s to 1700s
Theatrical Millinery
www.theatricalhatstorent.com
IN FOCUS
24 The Costume Designer Spring 2011 Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 25
Pilot season has been golden in and out of town for the last few
months as networks rush to meet their May deadlines and push
their big prospects for the fall season. CD Marissa Borsetto
hit a trifecta of ABC pilots recently, rst with Man Up, a comedy
starring Teri Polo, then with another sitcom, Smothered, star-
ring Marcia Gay Harden and Adam Arkin and ending with yet
a third comedy, Work It. Borsetto doesnt want to slow down
anytime soon and keeps her ngers crossed that Criminal Minds
and Suspect Behavior will get picked up to start in June. The hu-
morous-themed pilots continued here in town, with CD Wendy
Benbrook wrapping Hypothetical World, a Comedy Central
sketch comedy, starring Keegan Michael Keyes and Jordan Peele
(both of Mad TV). CD Robin Kennedy had a great time in April
designing the pilot Other Peoples Kids for ABC, starring Judith
Light, and described the cast and project to be an all-around de-
light, with the fun continuing for Kennedy into her series Rais-
ing Hope, featuring the always-lively, Cloris Leachman. CD Julia
Schklair and her crew were busy at work with a more som-
ber subject matter for a CBS pilot, The Doctor, starring Christine
Lahti, Eva Amurri, Scott Foley and Kyle MacLachlan. The medical
drama shot here in Los Angeles was created by Rina Mimoun and
directed by David Nutter. While the work is pouring in, Schklair
is happy to pull out her umbrella and keep up as designers juggle
pilots in between their series. CD Lisa Eisler-Coburn wrapped
Big Mike, an A&E pilot starring Anthony Ruivivar (The Whole
Truth) and Nicole Ari Parker (Soul Food), and Greg Grunberg as
a plus-size detective with the San Diego Police Department. CD
Cate Adair recently nished designing the Marc Cherry pilot
for ABC, Hallelujah, about a Tennessee small town battling the
forces of good and evil, and the entrance of a mysterious stranger
to their community. The drama starring Terry OQuinn (Lost) and
Donal Logue (Terriers) was shot in Los Angeles and directed by
Michael Apted. CD Deena Appel is continuing her run on pi-
lots in Los Angeles with Grace for ABC. The drama surrounds a
dysfunctional family set in the world of contemporary dance and
stars Eric Roberts as a former-dance-god-turned-choreographer
struggling to keep his company alive while his three daughters
from three different women are coming to terms with each other.
Illustrator Robin Richesson shared her extraordinary talent
with Appel for a series of Graces performance pieces represent-
ing re, wind, rain and earth. Appel then switched gears for Tim
Allens return to the multi-camera with Last Man Standing, also
for ABC. The situation comedy pairs Allen with Nancy Travis and
Hector Elizondo.
CD Nicole Gorsuch designed a few back-to-back pilots in town,
Pack of Wolves for Disney X, about a secret agent forced into hid-
ing, disrupting the peaceful suburban lives of his three younger
cousins, and in April, Gorsuch wrapped the second pilot Home
Game, a CBS comedy about a retired athlete with little to no
knowledge of raising three daughters. CD Bonnie Nipar had
some fun here in town with a live audience recently, designing
Are You There, Vodka? Its Me, Chelsea. The pilot is based on the
best-selling autobiography of the same name, spotlighting Execu-
tive Producer Chelsea Handlers humorous accounts of her antics
as a girl in her 20s. CD Kimberly Adams is currently over at
Paramount working her magic turning high school kids by day
into crime-ghting ninjas by night for the new series Supah Nin-
jas. New CDGer Erin Hirsh is home here in Los Angeles design-
ing The Voice, a new NBC reality show, with voice coaches Adam
Levine, Christina Aguilera, Cee-Lo and Blake Shelton looking for
the best vocals out there and schooling the talent to a grand prize.
ACD Monique Long has had a busy season in the world of
country music, costume supervising and designing the Billboard
Music Awards airing May 22, supervising Country Musics Girls
Night Out, and also this last April, marking Longs celebratory
10th year supervising the Academy of Country Music Awards.
In between the live country shows, Long designed a Spike Lee
documentary series for MSNBC shot in Los Angeles and Las Vegas,
featuring Rachel Maddow. CD Bonnie Stauch recently wrapped
in April, the still untitled Rob Schneider comedy project about a
solitary guy who marries into a large Mexican-American family.
CD Jennifer Bryan has stepped in as designer for the third
season of HawthoRNe, with CD Barbara Inglehart as her su-
pervisor. The medical drama starring Jada Pinkett Smith, Michael
Vartan and Marc Anthony, lms in Los Angeles.
Several recent pilots have shed all things modern-day to travel
back in time. CD Julie Weiss with her ACD Ken van Duyne,
revived the postCivil War for the NBC pilot Reconstruction, di-
BOLDFACE AT WORK
BOLDFACE NAMES
rected by Peter Horton. The 1866 period piece set in Missouri and
lmed in Santa Fe, stars Rachelle Lefevre and Martin Henderson
(both from Off the Map). Good Christian Bitches sounds surpris-
ing for an ABC title, but not for Sex and the City creator Darren
Star, who produces the drama based on Kim Gatlins novel. CD
Ellen Mirojnick designed the sassy-titled pilot, which lmed in
Dallas, starring Kristin Chenoweth, Leslie Bibb, Annie Potts, and
David James Elliott. Moving over to Atlanta, CD Ruth Carter re-
cently tied a bow on a Joel Silver pilot for CBS, Hail Mary, starring
Minnie Driver as a crime-ghting suburban mom teamed up with
a street-wise young hustler. CD Isis Mussenden just nished
shooting The Playboy Club pilot for NBC/Imagine TV in Chicago,
about the beginning of the Playboy phenomenon and the bunnies
who worked the original club in the early 60s.
CD Mary Vogts talents were outsourced for the Indian lm En-
thiran aka The Robot. She was hired to design a portion of the
Tamil language lm. The Indian star and humanitarian Rajnikanth
was brought to the United States to be scanned for prototypes based
on Vogts designs. She also designed the robot dancers which were
built in India. The lms American producer, Jack Rajsekar as well
as Mary and other key departments were given an award by William
and Mary College in Virginia for International Cooperation in World
Filmmaking.. In New York news, CD Chrisi Karvonides-Dush-
enko designed the ABC pilot Pan Am, a 1960s-set drama circling
the pilots and ight attendants of the once glamorous airline, starring
Christina Ricci. CD Juliet Polcsa designed Person of Interest, a
pilot for CBS shot in New York, starring Jim Caviezel, Michael Em-
erson and Taraji Henson, and immediately followed up the drama
with a ight to Chicago to start designing a Gus Van Zandt produced
and directed series for Starz titled Boss, featuring Kelsey Grammer.
In Wilmington, N.C., CD Kathleen Felix-Hager has just put the
nal touches on the ABC Family movie Teen Spirit, a drama directed
by Gil Junger about the mean popular girl who gets electrocuted
and dies, but cant enter the pearly gates until she makes amends
by turning the least popular girl into the prom queen. After prep-
ping the now defunct Life of Buddah in India for four months, CD
April Ferry hit the road, taking CD Bob Fletcher cross coun-
try to Kansas City where the 87-year-old Fletcher put the nishing
touches on this summers St Louis Muni Opera. According to Ferry,
Fletchers eye and hand still ow beautifully, in this, his twentieth
year at the opera. Next, Ferry is headed to Vancover to do battle
with aliens landing on Earth in the sci- drama Elysium, starring
Jody Foster and Matt Damon.
CD Allison Leach, with ACD Tiffany White, took a recent
trip down to South America to design H+, an epic international
science-ction Web & miniseries for Warner Premiere, shot on
location in Santiago, Chile. One of our newest members, CD
Karen Young, just nished a promo for the new VH1 series
Single Ladies in Atlanta, before hopping a plane to set up resi-
dence and start designing in New York, a big change from liv-
ing in Ohio! CD Shawna Trpcic is revamping the newest BBC
Torchwood seriesthe Dr. Who spin-off, now with a more mod-
ern, edgy feel, and has the sci- community tuning in to Trp-
cics tweets about the costumes after recently wrapping in Los
11149 VANOWEN STREET
NORTH HOLLYWOOD, CA91605
TEL: (818)753-3700
FAX:(818)753-3737
COSTUME RENTALS CORPORATION
CONTACT: MEL SABINO
CD Vogt is outsourced for Enthiran
IN FOCUS
26 The Costume Designer Spring 2011 Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 27
BOLDFACE NAMES
Angeles and Wales. CD Gersha Phillips took on the creative
challenge designing her recent project with a more contempo-
rary look on the ABC pilot Poe, shot in Toronto. Poe, as in Edgar
Allan is presented not as a writer, but an unconventional detec-
tive investigating the darker mysteries of 19th-century Boston. CD
Eduardo Castro had little time to bask in the afterglow from his
ultra-creative, ABC fairy tale pilot Once Upon a Time, also shot
in Canada, before catching a quick ight for New Orleans to take
over designing Memphis Beat for CD Kelli Jones, who had to
head back to Los Angeles for Sons of Anarchy, Season 4.
CD Cynthia Obsenares did
double duty in LA this March de-
signing commercials for Dunkin
Donuts and Mikes Hard Lemon-
ade, while Francine Lecoultre
traveled to Cape Town, South
Africa, to design Carl Jr.s Miss
Turkey commercial for HIS.
Lecoultre created the kitschy
burger bikini and also contracted
CDGer Shelly Komarov to
manufacture dresses through her
Komarov Enterprises.
In local lm news, CD Danny
Glicker is home for the sum-
mer designing with ACD Mi-
chele Short assisting on the
comedy My Mothers Curse for
Paramount, starring an interesting
combo of Seth Rogan and Barbra
Streisand as an inventor who heads out on the open road with his
mother to market his latest invention. Illustrator Lois DeArmond
lent her illustrative air to CD Carol Ramsey on the Starz network
period show, Magic City, shot in Florida, set in 1959 Miami Beach,
with CD Ellen Falguiere assisting.
Features are more than likely bumping elbows with each other in
New OrleansCD Leah Katznelson is at the helm designing
the lm version of 21 Jump Street for Sony Pictures, starring Chan-
ning Tatum, Jonah Hill and Ice Cube, through mid-summer, and CD
Christopher Lawrence went to New Orleans in March to design
the Nicolas Cage action lm Medallion, shooting through June, and
Lawrence is happy to be working again with longtime collaborator,
director Simon West. CD Judianna Makovsky has set up shop
in North Carolina designing The Hunger Games (Artemis), the fea-
ture based on the best-selling novel by Suzanne Collins, directed by
Gary Ross and starring Jennifer Lawrence and Elizabeth Banks with
CD Lisa Tomczeszyn assisting and CD Dan Moore supervising.
BOLDFACE AT WORK
CD Rita Ryack is also way down south with ACD Paula Elins
assisting, in the revival of the 1980s glam rock scene for the Warner
Bros. screen adaption of Broadway hit, Rock of Ages. The stage and
feature version are directed by Adam Shankman, and the lm version
stars Tom Cruise, Paul Giamatti, Alec Baldwin, Russell Brand, Juli-
anne Hough, and Mary J. Blige. ACD Stacy Caballero-Foushee
has just returned from her home in Louisiana where she assisted
CD Michael Wilkinson on the Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn,
Part 1 and 2, shot in Vancouver. Caballero has just started assisting
CD James Acheson on the Warner Bros. feature Man of Steel,
the next comic bookbased lm on Superman, lming in Illinois,
starring Henry Cavill, Amy Adams, Diane Lane, and Kevin Costner.
CD Lois DeArmonds portfolio grows even larger working on
the Clint Eastwood feature J. Edgar for CD Deborah Hopper,
starring Leonardo DeCaprio as Hoover, shot both in Los Angeles and
Vancouver. CD Debra McGuire designed and recently wrapped
the comedy Ted, starring Mark Wahlberg, Mila Kunis, Giovanni Ri-
bisi, with Seth MacFarlane acting and directing the feature, shot in
Boston. CD Gary Jones has the creative reins designing the fairy
tale feature, Oz: The Great and Powerful, lming in Detroit, starring
James Franco, Mila Kunis and Blake Lively, with Sam Raimi directing.
Jones and his crew, CD Jessica Peel Scott and CD Gali Noy,
both assisting, and Alan Villanueva illustrating, have started prep
at Western Costume and will shoot in Detroit through December.
Our UK designers are playing a bit of hopscotch across the globe
with their latest projectsCD Alexandra Byrne is hitting the
U.S. production hot spots of Los Angeles, New York, Miami, and
New Mexico on her latest design project for Marvel Studios
comic book feature The Avengers, starring Scarlett Johansson,
Robert Downey Jr., Jeremy Renner, Samuel L. Jackson, and Mark
Ruffalo. CD Janty Yates is currently working on Sir Ridley
Scotts next action epic, Prometheus, a prequel to Ridley Scotts
original Alien, from 1978. The sci- feature prepped and shoots in
3D in and around the UK, Morocco and Scotland, and stars Noomi
Rapace, Charlize Theron, and Michael Fassbender. CD Eiko Ish-
ioka, one of a few designers steeped in the world of childhood
fairy tales, is now in Montreal with ACD Susan Kowarsh Hall,
assisting from Los Angeles on the Relativity Media feature The
Brothers Grimm: Snow White (one of two Snow White features
in production), starring none other than Julia Roberts as the Evil
Queen. CD Colleen Atwood and ACD Christine Cantella are
also visiting the UK for Dark Shadows, based on the popular TV
series. The Tim Burtonhelmed gothic horror tale stars the usual
cast of collaborators, Johnny Depp and Helena Bonham Carter.
BOLDFACE PRESS
Many of CD Joan Bergins re-creations for the Starzs Arthurian
series Camelot, were featured in the April 8 Hollywood Report-
ers Hollywood Style section alongside an interview on Bergins
surprising inspirations for the sixth-century tale, not only drawn
from Celtic mythology, but stained glass, and beautiful fabrics
from Delhi, India, totaling in the end, 150 original costumes.
CD Luke Reichle has been buzzing with recent interviews on
a variety of topics ranging from his fashion design origins, to
clothes, closets, the craziest costumes, and yes, his series, Castle:
http://huff.to/fmcnpY http://bit.ly/hlzS9u http://bit.ly/f8np0H
CD Kathleen Detoro gives an interview and visual tour for the
AMC blog, which highlights the iconic pieces that have contrib-
uted to the success of Breaking Bad. From Walts tightie-whities
to hand-knit pom-pom hats, Detoro thinks there are plenty of
pretty dressed characters, so why not have fun with it? http://
bit.ly/hCuqwV CD Shelly Komarov and her Made in America
Made in Los Angeles couture and ready-to-wear lines were front-
page news for Apparel News. Recently, Komarov showed her line
to 200 women at a Nordstrom fashion show. The audience stood
and applauded her for her contribution to the economy and busi-
ness in the United States. Yea, Shelly!
BOLDFACE ENTRPRENEURS
CD Kristin Burke has published her third book, I Wanna Be
Your Vegan, this time a cookbook,
with 100% of the proceeds going
to John Johnson, a 45-year-old IA
production designer, in an effort to
offset medical costs as he battles pan-
creatic cancer. The book is for sale
exclusively at: http://www.blurb.
com/bookstore/detail/2014905
Entertainment Tonight and The In-
siders CD Anya Sarre is thrilled
over the launch of her own jewelry collection,
Anya Sarre for ShoeDazzle, every must-have
piece is inspired from Anyas own jewelry
box and will allow everyone to have Anyas
signature glam girl meets resort chic style
for only $39.95. Available at ShoeDazzle.com.
CD Shawnelle Cherry has taken a
hands-on approach and created a sew-
ing and fashion design school for kids in
North Carolina, called Future Fashion
Designers. Cherry has a 1,100-square-
foot studio in downtown Mooresville,
N.C., now serving as a fashion design studio for kids 8 and up,
with adults also welcome. Classes range from beginning to ad-
vanced sewing, to fashion design 1 & 2, fashion sketching cos-
tume design, and more. Cherry plans to expand, bringing it to
other cities with the hope of turning it into a nonprot in the
future. More information can be found at Cherrys website at
www.FutureFashionDesigners.com.
Compiled by:
Suzanne Huntington
shuntington@costumedesignersguild.com
Alonzo Wilson
yourowndesigner@aol.com
CD Burke goes vegan
CD Lecoultres Burger Bikini
CD Sarres jewels
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costumeco-op.com
11501 N. Chandler Blvd.,
North Hollywood, CA 91601
Tel: 818 752-7522
Fax: 818 752-7524
mail@costumeco-op.com
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612.375.8722 or e-mail costumes@costumerentals.org
855 EAST HENNEPIN MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55414 COSTUMERENTALS.ORG
CostumeRentals offers year-round access to the
Guthrie and The Childrens Theatre Companys
combined inventory of extraordinary costume pieces.
PHOTO CREDITS (L TO R): JENNIFER BLAGEN (MICHAL DANIEL), ROBERT CUCCIOLI (T CHARLES ERICKSON), CHRISTINA BALDWIN (MICHAL DANIEL)
Over 30,000 costumes
Designs by leading theatrical designers
Storybook and fantasy characters
Shoes, hats, masks and accessories
28 The Costume Designer Spring 2011 Spring 2011 The Costume Designer 29
Better With You
Costume Designer:
LORI ESKOWITZ-
CARTER
Mad Love
Costume Designer:
PAMELA WITHERS-
CHILTON
Body of Proof
Costume Designer:
ROBERTA HAZE
Assistant Designer:
MARCEL CHEVALIER
Cinema Verite
Costume Designer:
SUTTIRAT ANNE
LARLARB
The Borgias
Costume Designer:
GABRIELLA
PESCUCCI
Assistant Designer:
ANINA PINTER
Happy Endings
Costume Designer:
KERI SMITH
Mr. Sunshine
Costume Designer:
GENEVIEVE
TYRRELL
Assistant Designer:
MOLLY GRUNDMAN
Harrys Law
Costume Designer:
LISA EISLER
Illustrator:
BRIAN KOPP
Perfect Couples
Costume Designer:
NANCY GOULD
Raising Hope
Costume Designer:
ROBIN KENNEDY
The Killing
Costume Designer:
KATE HEALEY
Assistant Designer:
HEATHER DOUGLAS
Priest
Costume Designer:
HA NGUYEN
Illustrators:
PHILLIP BOUTTE JR.,
BRIAN VALENZUELA
Thor
Costume Designer:
ALEXANDRA BYRNE
Assistant Designer:
ROBERT WOJEWODSKI
Illustrator:
CHRISTIAN CORDELLA
Monte Carlo
Costume Designer:
SHAY CUNLIFFE
Assistant Designers:
ESZTER ANTAL,
CAMILLE JANBON,
WENDY STEFANELLI
The Conspirator
Costume Designer:
LOUISE FROGLEY
Judy Moody
and the Not
Bummer Summer
Costume Designer:
MARY JANE FORT
Water for Elephants
Costume Designer:
JACQUELINE WEST
Assistant Designer:
STACY CABALLERO-
FOUSHEE
Illustrator:
OKSANA NEDAVNIAYA
Passion Play
Costume Designer:
LISA JENSEN
Beginners
Costume Designer:
JENNIFER JOHNSON
Bridesmaids
Costume Designers:
LEESA EVANS,
CHRISTINE WADA
WHATS ON WHATS IN
Sympathy for
Delicious
Costume Designer:
ERIN BENACH
Assistant Designer:
LINDSEY KEAR
Camelot
Costume Designer:
JOAN BERGIN
Assistant Designer:
SUSAN OCONNOR
CAVE
Illustrator:
SUSAN SCOTT
A Better Life
Costume Designer:
ELAINE MONTALVO
Cowboys & Aliens
Costume Designer:
MARY ZOPHRES
Assistant Designers:
JENNY EAGAN,
MARJORIE MCCOWEN
Illustrator:
CHRISTIAN CORDELLA
30 The Costume Designer Spring 2011
SCRAPBOOK
P
h
o
t
o
f
e
s
t
1986 Goldie Hawn, Director, Michael Ritchie and Costume Designer & Producer Anthea Sylbert
Earn a BFA in Fashion Design Study Costume Design as
a minor Choose millinery, shoe, and handbag design as
electives Research costume history in the 6,000-piece
Fashion Study Collection Cross disciplinary boundaries to
psychology, communication, graphic design, and animation.
Join the fashion revolution: mcd.woodbury.edu/fashiondesign
Alter
fashion
world!
t
h
e
Gown by: Stephen Ferradino, Class of 2010
Photo by: Volker Correll

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