S6

Santa Fe/North Friday, August 29, 2008

Mateo’s Meditalian Bistro Has Right Touch

Good food, good presentation and good service make dining at new Canyon Road addition a lovely experience
By Anne Hillerman
For the Journal
Mateo’s

T Meditalian
here’s a handsome
new face on Canyon
Road, a little place
that offers great food
at moderate prices.
Mateo’s Meditalian Bistro
is the newest reinvention of
a restaurant space that in
recent memory has housed
a German bistro, an upscale
sandwich shop and an over-
priced Mexican restaurant.
Mateo’s seems to have the
right mix of cuisine, service
and pricing. A friend and I
had a lovely dinner here —
and got a discount for being
locals!
As the name implies, the
menu focuses on contem-
porary Italian — I didn’t
see Mediterranean dishes
— without a hint of green
chile or corn tortillas. Din-
ner offerings feature plenty
of pasta, as well as salads
and a few select entrees with
chicken, fish or veal as the
star. After our waiter, Jorge,
told us the Tumbleweed Sal-
ad was Mateo’s most popular
dish, we tried it ($12.95). It
arrived looking like a minia-
ture vegetable birthday cake
wearing an unexpected curly
toupee of crisp fried onions,
like the kind grandma put
on her green-bean casserole.
When was the last time just
the sight of a salad made you
smile? It didn’t disappoint
tastewise, either. An excel-
lent mix of chopped lettuce,
mild blue cheese, bacon,
boiled egg, tiny red bits of
tomato and soft, ripe avoca-
do, it was a meal in itself.
We sampled the calamari
($9.95), which stands out
from the crowd because of a
great marinara sauce spicy
enough for Santa Fe pal-
Bistro
WHERE: 802 Canyon
Road
FOOD: Italian, beer and
wine
SERVICE: Very good
PRICES: Most dinner
entrees $13.95 to
$20.95
AMBIANCE: Pleasant
outdoor deck and inside
seating
pasta, but heavy.
The pasta carbonara ($7.47
for a half order) could be con-
sidered adult comfort food.
The piping hot spaghetti was
tossed with fresh peas and
prosciutto in a sinfully rich
cream sauce. My half order,
an option also available for
most of the other pasta choic-
es including the lobster ravi-
oli and fettuccine Alfredo,
was plenty.
Jorge tried to tempt us with
katharine kimball/journal dessert, which Mateo’s offers
Contemporary Italian cuisine is featured at Mateo’s Meditalian Bistro on Canyon Road, where a worker passes through the din- free to locals to encourage
us to come back and bring
ing room with dishes in hand.
friends. When we declined,
he gave us a 10 percent dis-
ates, and an ample fresh side stream into El Farol next estate. The tables, topped tried the veal scaloppine count. What good marketing!
salad. I passed on the melon door for tapas and music, with Italian-style cloths that ($18.95), an artfully pre- Before the discount, our
soup, the soup of the day, but or stroll past on their way explain various types of noo- sented meal of tender veal dinner for two without
enjoyed the Tuscan onion to Geronimo just across the dles, have umbrellas for day- with a lemony caper sauce drinks, tax or tip was $57.22.
with its rich beefy broth street. If you have lunch time dining. As we enjoyed and a colorful assortment of Parking is available in the
and abundance of soft sweet here, in addition to the food, our dinner and conversa- fresh sautéed zucchini, yel- city lot right across the street
sliced onions, and the fresh you’ll be treated to a parade tion with humanity passing low squash, julienne carrots or, if you’re lucky, for free
minestrone. Full of vegeta- of shoppers, dog-walkers by, Jorge smoothly cleared and slender green beans. along Canyon Road.
bles in a tasty tomato base, and curious tourists explor- plates, refilled water glasses, The veal was almost fork With first-rate food, good
this soup was almost a stew ing the mysteries of Canyon brought the next course and tender and the wonderfully service and its million-dollar
(each $3.95). Road. Mateo’s location, at the new silverware and kept a tart sauce complemented location, I hope Mateo’s
My friend and I ate on the corner of Camino del Monte solicitous eye on us. it nicely. The polenta was a becomes another Canyon
patio, watching the crowds Sol, is prime Santa Fe real At Jorge’s suggestion, we nice change from potatoes or Road dining institution.

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