ECO-FRIENDLY DYEING

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

EFD SFW07

OUTLINE
Background Textile Wet Processing
Desizing Scouring Bleach Clean Up

Cold Pad Batch Dyeing

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

EFD SFW07

BACKGROUND
Increasing awareness for a cleaner and greener living standards Enforcement of stricter guidelines and rulings from various associations and Government bodies Challenges faced by Textile companies around the world alike Dyeing

Matexs belief in being ecologically efficient

EFD SFW07

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

DYEING PROCESS
Desizing
Mebyo NHT

Garment

Scouring
Mebyo PT

Finishing

Bleach Clean Up
Mebyo HON

Dyeing
Megafix B-CPB

Soaping

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

EFD SFW07

DESIZING

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

EFD SFW07

DESIZING
Removal of starch used as size during weaving to prevent unleveled dyeing and poor batch-to-batch reproducibility Traditional Desizing Methods
Acidic: Sulphuric or hydrochloric acid Oxidative: Persulphate plus alkali bromite and alkali or

These treatments reduce the tensile strength of the fabric.

EFD SFW07

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

DESIZING
Desizing with biocatalyst Advantages:
LESS chemicals involved ECO-FRIENDLY EFFICIENT in wide range temperature Specific, NO damage to cellulose fibres BETTER strength retention SOFTER fabric feel SHORTER process time EFD SFW07 7

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

DESIZING
Mechanism:
Biocatalyst hydrolyzes -1,4-linkages in starch

HYDROLYSIS

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

EFD SFW07

DESIZING
Test for degree of desizing
Tegewa Scale

Tegewa Rating: 1

Tegewa Rating: 7

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

EFD SFW07

SCOURING

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

10

EFD SFW07

SCOURING
Removal of impurities such as
Waxes Pectins Hemicelluloses Mineral salts

from raw cotton during the early stages of textile wet processing Prepares fabric treatments
Mercerizing Bleaching Dyeing
Copyright

for

subsequent

Printing Finishing

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

11

EFD SFW07

SCOURING

In highly alkaline condition

Conventional Alkaline

Fabric Input

Scouring

Neutralization Washing Dyeing

No Neutralization

Bioscourin Alternative g At low alkalinity (pH 8.5)

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

12

EFD SFW07

SCOURING
Advantages of bioscouring:
ECO-FRIENDLY (less harsh chemical caustic soda) LESS rinse water needed REDUCE effluent load REDUCE water consumption SAVE energy SAVE cost Fully RETAIN cellulose structure
13

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

EFD SFW07

SCOURING
Wetting Test

Grey Fabric

Treated Fabric

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

14

EFD SFW07

SCOURING
Measurement pH Temperature Residual pectin Weight loss Wettablility, drop test Brightness increase Bleach ability Dye ability Rinse water consumption Total diss solids (TDS) BOD COD Bioscouring 8 9.5 50 60oC (extract at 75 95oC) 22-30% <1.5% < 1 second + 1-5% points Same Same 35-50% 20-50% 20-45% 20-45% Alkaline scouring 13-14 95 100oC 10-15% 4-10% < 1 second + 5 -10% points Same Same 100% 100% 100% 100%
Source: Novozymes, 4 December 2006
Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

15

EFD SFW07

Basic Assumption fabric processed / day (tonne) Fabric cost per kg (USD) Liquor ratio Total water required (tonne) Total 20

Energy Saving Energy cost $1.00 1:7 140 Base temperature (oC) Scouring Temperature (oC) Temperature differential (oC) Steam required / 1 tonne water (kg) Total steam required (tonne) Total steam cost / day (USD) Steam cost saving / year2 (USD)

Alkaline Scouring

Bioscourin g

30 95 65 185.71 26 $410.801 -

30 60 30 85.71 12 $189.601 $66,360

Fabric Saving Weight loss cost Based on steam cost USD$15.80/tonne of steam 2 Based on 300 working days per year 3 Based on 4% fabric weight lost
4 1

Alkaline Scouring

Bioscourin g

Total fabric weight lost (%) Total fabric weight lost / day (kg) Total weight lost cost / day (USD) Weight lost cost saving / year2 (USD)

4 -10 8003 $800 0

<1.5 3004 $300 $150,000

Based on 1.5% fabric weight lost

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

16

EFD SFW07

BLEACH CLEAN UP

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

17

EFD SFW07

BLEACH CLEAN UP
Removal of H2O2 residual ensure leveled dyeing Bleach Clean Up Alternatives
By rinsing only
Bleaching Rinsing Rinsing Rinsing Rinsing Dyeing

to

By reducing agent
Bleaching Rinsing
Reducing
Agent

Rinsing

Dyeing

With biocatalyst
Bleaching Rinsing
Biocatalys t

Dyeing

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

18

EFD SFW07

BLEACH CLEAN UP
Advantages of using biocatalyst:
SAVE water
No rinsing required. Can proceed in the same bath with dyeing process

SAVE energy
No more hot rinse, cold rinse, hot rinse

SAVE time
As short as 10 min to complete the job!

SAFE
H2O2 complete removal dyestuff or textile materials without affecting

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

19

EFD SFW07

BLEACH CLEAN UP
Bleach Clean Up with Biocatalyst
Temperature C - Adjust pH as desired for subsequent dyeing - Add biocatalyst - Check peroxide level

Bleaching
100 80 60 40 20

-Drain -Fill cold

0 5 10 15 20 25

Bleach Clean Up

Dyeing

30

35

40

45

50

55

60

Time (min)

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

20

EFD SFW07

BLEACH CLEAN UP
Water Usage in the Various B leach Clean Up Methods
4.5 4 3.5

No of Rinse B aths

3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 Water R eductive Biocatalyst

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

21

EFD SFW07

Process Time for the Various Bleach Clean Up Methods

140 120 100

Minutes

80 60 40 20 0 Water Bleaching Reductive Rinsing H2O2 Removal Biocatalyst

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

22

EFD SFW07

COLD PAD BATCH

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

23

EFD SFW07

COLD PAD BATCH DYEING

A more environmentally sound and higher quality dyeing method Process steps:
Padding Washing Drying Roll Soaping Batching Washing

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

24

EFD SFW07

COLD PAD BATCH DYEING

Total volume of pad-trough 10 / 15 litres per metre of width of fabric (example 2 metres; volume 20 to 30 litres) Immersion time 1.5sec Bath temperature 30C Pick up 70 80% Fabric speed such as the time to completely renew the trough should not exceed 10 minutes Batching time: 8 16hrs 25
Mixing Vessel 1 volume Alkali Dyes/ Auxiliaries

4 volumes

Batching Vessels

Foulard with an automatic leveladjustment

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

25

EFD SFW07

COLD PAD BATCH DYEING

Advantages of Cold Pad Batch Dyeing:
Simplicity in process of dyestuff application Reduction in water consumption by 50 to 80% Reduction in energy consumption by up to 60% Reduction in chemical costs, other than dyestuff, by up to 50% due to elimination of salt and reduction of alkali requirements Reduction in labor costs by 40 to 60% Minimum fabric abrasion Source: Cotton Inc 2003/TRI Excellent shade reproducibility from lot to 3007 EFD SFW07 Copyright Matex. All Rights Reserved. . 26 lot

COLD PAD BATCH DYEING

Reactive dyestuff
A dye type that connect to the fiber through chemical reactions (covalent bond)
MONO REACTIVE DYE-R HYDROLIZATION 25% DYE-OH FIXATION 75% BIFUNCTIONAL REACTIVE R1-DYE-R2 HYDROLIZATION 25% R2-DYE-OH HYDROLIZATION 6% HO-DYE-OH
TOTAL 25% HYDROLIZATION 75% FIXATION
Copyright

FIXATION 75% R2-DYE-Ocell

DYE-Ocell

FIXATION 19% HO-DYE-Ocell

TOTAL 6% HYDROLIZATION 94% FIXATION

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

27

EFD SFW07

COLD PAD BATCH DYEING

Megafix B-CPB
Belongs to Bifunctional Reactive Dyes Group Low to medium substantivity, medium to high reactivity Excellent build-up, high color yield and fixation Good fastness Good repeatibility Good trichromic compatibility Meet Oeko-Tex 100 requirement
Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

28

EFD SFW07

COLD PAD BATCH DYEING

Trichromatic Compatibility
From the illustration & data values, it shows that the trichromatic colors are compatible & they give the similar shade & tone throughout from the 1st fabric to the 40th fabric.
Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

29

EFD SFW07

COLD PAD BATCH DYEING

Item Batch size Liquor Ratio Water consumption Steam Consumption Electrical Consumption Salt Total (Exclude Dyestuff & Labor) Beck 1000 lbs 15 : 1 18,889 gals 13,430 lbs 60 kWh 1000 lbs Beck Cost $48.731 $58.822 $3.003 $40.004 $150.5 5 PadBatch

Cost Comparison on Reactive Dyeing pre-bleached 100% Cotton ( Greenville, S.C. local currency)
Pad-batch cost $12.851 $19.052 $1.503 0 $33.40 $35.88 $39.77 $1.50 $40.00 $117.15 73.6% 67.6% 50.0% 100% 77.8% Total saving % Saving

1000 lbs 1:1 4,980 gals 4,350 lbs < 30 kWh 0

1. Based on water & sewer cost of $2.58/1000 gals. 2. Based on steam cost $4.38/1000 lbs. of steam. Pad-batch includes extra drying. 3. Based on electric power cost of 5.0/kWh. Source: Cotton Inc 2003/TRI 4. Based on sodium chloride at 4/lb.
Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

30

3007

EFD SFW07

COLD PAD BATCH DYEING

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

31

EFD SFW07

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

32

EFD SFW07

Copyright

Matex. All Rights Reserved. .

33

EFD SFW07