Podgorica Turisticki Vodic 2012

Hotels restaurants cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
podgorica
Winter - Spring 2012
Skiing and hiking the highlands

Kolain and abljak
Tourism icon
Ostrog monastery
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Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Arriving in Podgorica
Happy landings 5 6 8 10 11
Basics
Electricity, Driving, Money etc.
History
From Slavic immigration to independence
Culture
Just the ticket
Where to stay
Presidential suites to bunk beds
Dining & Nightlife

Where to eat Traditional food and all the rest Cafs Where to find the best espresso Nightlife The best bars and clubs 15 20 22
A statue outside the Modern Art Gallery Slobodan Dumni
Sightseeing
Essential things to see and do Spend time in the amazing Durmitor region
25 28 32 36 40 41 44
abljak Kolain
Gateway to the Biogradska National Park
Getting around
When legs just arent enough
Mail & Phones

Keeping in touch
Shopping
The best bargains
Directory
All the other things you need to know
Maps & Index

Country map City map City centre map Index Street register
Podgoricas Ribnica Bridge Slobodan Dumni
46 47 48 50 50
www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
Foreword
With a handful of quirky sights, thousands of students, a lively nightlife scene, decent hotels and transport connections, Podgorica is not that bad a place to spend a day or two in winter. As the pretty coastal cities across the Balkans sink into deep winter slumber, Podgorica lives up to its reputation of party city, and its no problem for visitors to make friends in one of the citys many cafs, bars and clubs. This edition of Podgorica In Your Pocket has many new reviews, reflecting the pace of change in the restaurant and nightlife scene. Were also proud to present two new sections in the guide, in collaboration with USAID, featuring the northern mountain towns of abljak, gateway to the Tara gorge and numerous adventure sport activities, and Kolain, the base for trips to the stunning Biogradska National Park. Both towns have good quality and affordable skiing nearby, and have accommodation for all budgets. Finally, closer to Podgorica we highlight the magnificent Ostrog monastery, one of the main spiritual and tourist attractions in the country. Whatever you do in Montenegro this winter and spring, let us know about your experiences. Were happy to get feedback at podgorica@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Podgorica.
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Cover story
The brand new National Library, on the western side of the Trg Republike main square, is a nice bit of modern architecture in Podgorica. See page 10 for the contact details.
FYR Macedonia
USAID
Publication of the abljak and Kolain sections of this publication and website is made possible by the suppor t of the American People through the United States Agency for International Development (USAID). The contents of this section are the sole responsibility of the Adria Management Group and do not necessarily reflect the views of USAID or the United States Government.
It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and Sittard-Geelen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (ibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises to deliver many more new Pockets. The number of cities we cover has now climbed past 70, and the number of In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching an amazing five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Podgorica In Your Pocket 2012. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiei 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S Podgorica In Your Pocket Adria Management Group Moskovska 16, Podgorica Montenegro Tel. +382 69 52 99 83 podgorica@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com www.adriamanagementgroup.com
ISSN 1800-7929 Printing Golbi, Podgorica Published 10,000 copies, twice per year
Editorial Editorial management Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco Contributor Tiana Carriedo, Sanja Golubovi Research Dragan Lakoevi Layout & Design Vaida Gudynait Photos Rentapocket.com, Kolain & abljak Tourist Boards, Miroslav Jovovi, Slobodan Dumni, Michel Guilly, Richard Hill, Dmitri Kruglikov Maps Intersistem, Belgrade Cover photo Miroslav Jovovi The Podgorica In Your Pocket team would like to thank USAID and the tourism offices of Podgorica, abljak and Kolain for their kind help. Sales & Circulation Manager Marko Mirovi marko.mirovi@inyourpocket.com
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
Podgorica In Your Pocket
arriving in podgoriCa
Podgorica and Montenegro in general remain ludicrously expensive destinations to fly to. If youre counting the pennies, do what the smart people do and fly into Dubrovnik just over the Croatian border. Buses filter in from everywhere, and the train journey from Belgrade through the mountains is a delightful introduction to the country.
Street smarts
Below is a list of Montenegrin street and place names. In this guide weve left the word ulica (street) out of addresses, as is common practice locally. Youll often see bb written in addresses, this means bez broja, no number, and its probably an obvious building along the street. Autoput Bulevar Most Put Trg Ulica Highway Boulevard Bridge Road Square Street
By plane
Podgoricas small but modern airport (aerodrom) is 8km southwest of the city along the road to Bar. There is no public transport to town, but Montenegro Airlines runs a bus service to Trg Republike, the main square, departing a short while after each of their flight arrivals. Tickets cost 3 and can be bought on the bus. Taking a taxi from outside the terminal to the city centre will cost around 20, but just 5-10 if you call one of the local companies. If youre arriving at Tivat airport, a taxi to Podgorica will take about 80 minutes and costs 40-50, depending on your bargaining skills. You can also wait along the road for buses going south (to your right) to Budva and on to Podgorica, though you may need to wait a while.
By train
Train travellers from Belgrade or Bar disembark at Podgoricas train station, on the eastern edge of the city. The station building only holds ticket offices and a restaurant, so for ATMs, kiosks and other services walk across the street to the bus station. To get to the city centre, hail a taxi for about 2 or hop on bus N6 which trundles to the Crna Gora hotel. Alternatively, its a 15-minute walk along Oktobarske Revolucije, then right down Bratstva-Jedinstva. Buses N7 and 4 run to the Novi Grad district.
By bus
Located right in front of the train station, Podgoricas bus station is a marvellous arrival point. Equipped with ATMs, a minimarket, a superb little buffet restaurant, a post office and a garderoba for leaving luggage (open 05:00-22:00, 2 per item), it has all you need to get ready for your assault on the city. See Arriving by train for directions to the city centre. Podgoricas train station JvM
Districts
Although small, Podgorica has several distinct districts. Nova Varo (New Town) is the modern city centre, a regular grid of streets set between the Moraa and Ribnica rivers. This area has the densest concentration of shops, restaurants and nightlife options, and various streets and squares have been pedestrianised or otherwise upgraded in recent years. Stara Varo (Old Town), south of the two rivers confluence, is the citys original old town area although little remains of the bustle of yesteryear. Ottoman-era landmarks here include the Clock Tower surrounded by a small bazaar, the fortress and two small mosques. A kilometre west of the city centre, the Novi Grad (New City) district, informally and better known as Preko Morae (Across the Moraa), is Podgoricas brand new business district. Originally a residential suburb with uniform highrise apartment buildings, in the last decade its seen massive investment and now has various new developments including offices, hotels, upmarket restaurants and shops. Finally, the leafy Pod Goricom (Below the hill) district, curled around Gorica hill east of the city centre, is home to many embassies.
Tourist information
The national tourism information number, tel. 1300, is a handy one to save on your mobile. They can answer questions on all aspects of travel and tourism for all of Montenegro, 24 hours per day. Normal telephone costs apply. 47, tel. +382 20 66 75 35, fax +382 20 66 75 36, pgto@t-com.me, www.podgorica.travel. Right next to the Carine restaurant, the citys friendly tourist information office does its best to inform you about all three sights in town and the plethora of interesting trips in the surroundings. They have informative brochures and a good city map and can help book you a city tour or daytrip. Q June-Oct: open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, closed Sun. Nov-May: open 08:00 - 16:00, closed Sat, Sun.
Tourism Board of Podgorica (TOP) E-2, Slobode
BasiCs
is handy if youre headed to remote destinations. The maximum speed in Montenegro is 50km/hr in towns and villages, 80km/hr on other roads unless indicated oth er wise. Th ere are no hi ghways in M ontenegro. Headlights must be switched on at all times. Unleaded petrol and diesel cost about 1,40 and 1,35 per litre respectively. Parking your car in Podgorica is perfectly safe (if you can find a spot). There are several guarded car parks, the best ones are close to the city centre along Stanka Dragojevica (0.20-0.50 per hour).
Electricity
Montenegrin domestic electricity is 220V AC, 50 Hertz, supplied through standard European two-pin sockets.
Gay & Lesbian

The Balkan paternalistic macho culture is strong in Montenegro, with men expected to be chunky and manly, and women to be elegant and dependent. Public displays of homosexuality are not tolerated and gay visitors should be careful to avoid hostile reactions. Even in big-city Podgorica theres little tolerance, and there are as yet no gay bars or clubs.
The zelena pijaca market
JvM
Communism
The communist era was a dark age for many countries in Europe, but many older people in Montenegro fondly tell stories of how good it was when called each other comrade (drue) and lived in the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, a country with something to say on the world stage. But apart from some statues and buildings, the visible communist legacy is disappearing fast. Even Tito had his boulevard renamed after a saint.
Basic data
Population Montenegro 620,029 Podgorica 156,169 (2011) Ethnic composition Montenegrins 45% Serbs 29% Bosniaks 9% Albanians 5% other 12% Territory 13,812 square kilometres Borders Adriatic 293km Albania 172km Bosnia 255km Croatia 14km Kosovo 60km Serbia 143km Longest river Tara (Drina) 144km (110km in Montenegro) Largest lake Skadar 370-530 square kilometres (shared with Albania. Size depends on water level) Highest point Bobotov Kuk (Durmitor) 2,523m Longest beach: Velika Plaa, Ulcinj 13km UNESCO World Heritage sites Durmitor National Park, Kotor old town, Kotor Bay, Tara Canyon Local time GMT+1 Daylight saving time between the last Sundays of March and October.
Disabled travellers
Public transport is not equipped for disabled travellers yet, but most pedestrian crossings in town now have sloped kerbs, and the main crossings in the centre have sound signalling systems for the blind. Many restaurants and cafs are unfortunately still inaccessible for wheelchair users. Hotels with facilities for the disabled are marked with the wheelchair symbol in this guide.
Driving
Getting around the country by car is fast and efficient, though driving can be manic; beware for dare-devils overtaking in bends. Montenegros roads are generally well-kept and easy to navigate, though a good map
Climate
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BasiCs
Purchasing power
How far does your euro, pound or dollar go? Taxi from airport to city centre 10 Cinema ticket 3.50 Espresso 0.70-1.10 Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) 1.5-2.5 Mineral water (1.5 litre) 0.50 Mars bar 0.45 Public transport ticket 0.80
Exchange rates
1 = 1.20, US$1 = 0.76 (Dec 2011)
Money
Montenegros official currency is the euro (), which is divided into 100 cents. Euro bills come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. Coins come in denominations of 2, 1, 0.50, 0.20, 0.10, 0.05 and 0.01. Montenegro unilaterally decided to switch from the Yugoslav dinar to the German mark in 1999 for fear of economic destabilisation by Serbia. It adopted the euro when the currency was introduced in 2002. Although Montenegro doesnt have a monetary agreement with the European Central Bank and does not have issuing rights, the EU recognises the stabilising influence of the currency, and does not object to Montenegro using it. Euros are best obtained from ATMs where EU account holders should be charged the same transaction fees as in their home country. Alternatively, change at a bank (ID required).
Registration
Foreigners spending the night in Montenegro officially need to be registered. Most hotels take care of this for you, but people staying at hostels, guesthouses and with locals may need to register themselves to avoid trouble when leaving the country. You can buy a registration card (Prijava boravita stranaca) at the Tourist Information Office or at any office supply shop for 0.50. Your host needs to fill this in.
Smoking
Visitors to restaurants and bars will see plenty of no-smoking signs and a number of non-smoking areas, but unfortunately the locals rebellious spirit and tobacco addictions mean that these are widely ignored. Weve indicated which places have (nominal) no-smoking areas in this guide.
Religion
The major religion in Montenegro is Orthodox Christianity. Other important religious communities are Islam, especially in the Albanian-inhabited area around Ulcinj, and Catholicism.
Toilets
There are few public toilets in Podgorica. One can be found in the park by the Crna Gora hotel. In case of emergency, most bars and restaurants will let you use theirs if you ask nicely.
Safety
Podgorica is a peaceful place and visitors should take no more precautions than for other European cities. With a prevalent and youthful caf culture, coffee poisoning and falling in love with a local are currently the biggest threats to foreigners.
Visas
For stays of up to 90 days, visas are not required for citizens of the EU, Western and many other countries. All others need a visa, although those with valid Schengen (EU) visas or US visas may stay visa-free for up to seven days.
National holidays
January 1 January 7 April 13 (2012) April 15-17 (2012) May 1 May 21 July 13 New Years Day Orthodox Christmas Good Friday Easter Labour Day Independence Day Statehood Day
Water
Tap water can safely be consumed in Podgorica. Bottled water is widely available, and you can support the local economy by buying good Montenegrin brands like include Aqua Bianca, Aqua Monta and Suza.
Vice
Prostitution and drug use are illegal in Montenegro. Plainclothes police will have no second thoughts about arresting and charging foreigners.
History
The Ottoman-era clock tower Ancient history The oldest known inhabitants of what is now Montenegro were the Illyrian tribes who were subdued by the Romans in 9AD and then marginalised by the mass immigration of Slavs in the fifth and sixth centuries. The principality of Duklja that the Slavic newcomers founded became independent from the Byzantine Empire in 1042 and soon became a kingdom, expanding to incorporate surrounding areas. In the early medieval era the region was ruled alternatively by local families and the medieval Serbian state until the Ottomans occupied the region in 1499. The Ottoman era Montenegro remained relatively autonomous within the Ottoman empire, with local noble families allowed to rule the area with little interference. Despite this, the occupation was never accepted and several uprisings occurred until the Ottomans were finally defeated in the late 17th century. Under Prince-Bishops Petar I and II Petrovi-Njego, Montenegro unified and became a theocracy. 20th century Nicholas I greatly expanded and modernised the principality in the 20th century, winning recognition of independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1878. The constitution is signed in 1905, the country becomes a kingdom in 1910, and Cetinje quickly became more important as Montenegros capital, with a succession of embassies established there. Montenegro started the Balkan Wars of 1912 and 1913 to definitely expel the Ottomans from the region, and joined Serbia in the First World War. In 1918, the country was added to Serbia and remained so until the country was invaded and declared independent by the Nazis in 1941. After liberation by Yugoslav partizans in 1944, during which Podgorica was heavily damaged, Montenegro became a republic within the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.
Michel Guilly Podgorica became Titograd in honour of President Josip Tito and the city was rebuilt. The end of Yugoslavia Yugoslavias collapse in 1992 meant that Montenegro was left alone with Serbia in the new Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. An unmonitored referendum at the time showed great support among Montenegrins for this, though turnout was low due to boycotts. During the Bosnian and Croatian wars of 19911995, the Yugoslav army was involved in various campaigns from Montenegrin territory against Croatia, including the bombing of Dubrovnik. Prime Minister Milo ukanovi started to cut ties with Serbia in 1996, replacing the dinar with the German Mark (and later the euro) to loosen economic ties with Belgrade and becoming much more independent. During NATOs 1999 Kosovo campaign, Montenegro was also targeted though damage was limited. To independence While tensions with Serbia remained, Montenegro continued on the path towards separation. The Federal Republic of Yugoslavia was replaced by the union of Serbia and Montenegro in 2003, but soon enough the peaceful and fair EU-monitored referendum in 2006 showed a 55% majority in favour of complete independence from Serbia. Montenegro subsequently became independent on June 3, 2006. Tensions remain as Montenegrin and Serbian identity are closely interwoven. Since independence Montenegro has seen great economic growth, particularly in the tourism and construction sectors as a liberal land ownership policy allowed foreigners to buy land with few restrictions. Especially Russian investors took advantage of the opportunity, and Budva and other coastal resorts see many Russian tourists in summer. The economy took a hit during the world financial crisis and tourism numbers dropped, though long-term prospects are still good.
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Culture
Podgorica has a modest but good set of venues for cultural events, and a handful of annual festivals, the main ones in July and in December. Like many countries in this part of Europe, events are planned and announced haphazardly keep an eye on posters and local papers and ask around to find out whats on during your visit.
British Council K-1, Ulcinjska 8, tel. +382 20 61 84 10, fax +382 20 61 84 11, pginfo@britishcouncil.me, www. britishcouncil.me. Promoting English language, arts and the UK. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
D-2, Njegoeva 26, tel. +382 69 27 61 81/+382 69 34 53 05, contact@ccf.co.me, www.ambafrance-me.org. Organises French language courses and many cultural events such as French film nights, literary workshops and concerts. QOpen 09:15 - 18:15, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
French Cultural Centre (Centre Culturel Franais)
Cinemas
Cineplexx G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel.
+382 20 41 44 24, www.cineplexx.me. Montenegros only modern cinema, has six screens showing local films and subtitled Hollywood hits in 3D. You can also watch New York and Moscow Operas and Ballets live. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. Tickets for regular projections 3.40-3.80, for 3D projections 4.80-5.00, for Opera 9.00, for Ballet 7.00. Students have discounts on Monday - Thursday, and people with disabilities have special prices every night. PAU
E-1, Vaka urovia 12, tel. +382 20 66 42 35/+382 20 22 55 87, info@kicpodgorica.com, www.kicpodgorica. com. Podgoricas main youth culture centre, with a neat rooftop terrace for films and concerts. Q Open 08:00 21:00.
KIC Budo Tomovi (Dom Omladine Budo Tomovi)
Libraries
Concert halls
Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382
National Library (Narodna Biblioteka Radosav Ljumovi) D-2, Trg Republike bb, tel. +382 20 66 47
15, info@nbp.me, www.nbp.me. A small collection of English-language books. A 5 annual membership allows you to browse and lend. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
20 60 26 25, fax +382 20 60 26 26, karver@t-com.me, www.karver.org. A small concert hall and performance space above the Karver bookshop. Entrance is to the left of the main building. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Cultural centres
Theatres
Tomovi), tel. +382 20 66 70 65, amcorner@t-com. me, www.kicpodgorica.com. The US information centre, where you can browse magazines and newspapers. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Banja Cultural Centre E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, karver@t-com.me. The former Turkish bath, wedged under a bridge, now houses a bookshop, caf, and internet caf. QOpen 18:00 - 20:00.
American Corner E-1, Vaka urovia 12 (KIC Budo
City Theatre (Gradsko Pozorite) D-2, Bokeka
D-2, Stanka Dragojevia 18, tel./fax +382 20 66 40 82, tel. +382 20 66 40 75, cnp@t-com.me, www.cnp.me. A very active theatre with local and regional plays performed on most nights. Q Box office open Mon-Sat 09:00-13:00, also daily from 17:00 to the start of the performance.
National Theatre (Crnogorsko Narodno Pozorite)
2, tel. +382 20 66 50 85/+382 20 66 50 87, info@ pgpozoriste.me, www.pgpozoriste.me. Regular plays as well as performances aimed at children.
Language
The locals have recently decided to officially name the language they speak Montenegrin. This is a dialect of Serbian that has been promoted as the national language since independence in 2006, though many locals still declare they simply speak Serbian. Whatever you want to call it, its a south Slavic language closely linked to others in the region, but with small variations and an alphabet that has two extra letters. Good morning Good evening Cheers! Excuse me How are you? Dobro jutro Dobar vee ivjeli! Oprostite Kako si? Good day Good night All the best! Sorry Dobar dan Laku no Sve najbolje! Izvinite
Practicalities My name is... Moje ime je As in Serbia, both the Latin and Cyrillic can be used to write Im from... Ja sam iz Montenegrin, though nearly all texts, street names and ...UK/...USA ...Velika Britanija/...Amerika newspapers are in Latin script. I dont understand Ne razumijem Whats your name? Kako se ti zove?/Kako ti je ime? Pronunciation A ticket, please Kartu, molim like ch in church I have... Ja sam iz... similar to , but softer I am... Ja sam D d like g in George /DJ /dj like j in jaw Signs Jj like y in yes Open Otvoreno Closed Zatvoreno like sh in show Entrance Ulaz Exit Izlaz Uu like oo in roof Push Guraj Pull Vuci like x in luxurious No smoking Zabranjeno puenje Niceties & Necessities Yes Da Hello Zdravo Good Dobro Thank you Hvala No Goodbye Please Here you are Ne Do vienja Molim Izvolite Numbers 0 - nula 1 - jedan 4 - etiri 5 - pet 8 - osam 9 - devet 50 - pedeset 2 - dva 6 - est 10 - deset 100 - sto 3 - tri 7 - sedam 20 - dvadeset 1000 - hiljadu
wHere to stay
Despite rapid developments along the Montenegrin coast, Podgoricas accommodation scene is still lacking truly cheap and truly charming places to stay, though several new hotels have recently raised the bar. The limited range of accommodation ranges from merely adequate to luxurious. Our hotel reviews are categorised by the number of stars awarded by the ministry responsible for tourism - though this may not always correspond with the international star rating systems, or your own sense of whats good or not.
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Symbol key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly F Fitness centre R Internet K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms W Wi-Fi C Swimming pool
Ambasador D-1, Vaka urovia 5, tel. +382 20 27 22 33, fax +382 20 27 22 44, vbambasador@t-com. me. A great location by the river, the fully renovated rooms all come with lovely wooden floors, stainless steel ceilings in the bathrooms, cable television and a three-piece suite in the apartments. Knowing full well that the attraction lies with the location, the owners havent exactly splashed out on facilities, making it a little expensive considering what you get, but the in-house riverside restaurant makes up for its deficiencies. Charming. Q 9 rooms (3 doubles 95, 6 apartments 150). PHAULKW hhhh Apart Hotel Premier A-1/2, Bul. Mihaila Lalia 1, tel. +382 20 40 99 00, fax +382 20 40 99 99, office@aparthotelpremier.com. For those who want more privacy and space than a regular hotel can offer, yet including breakfast and room service, the three types of luxury apartments at the Apart Hotel in the Novi Grad district are a solution. Spread over six floors, each is fitted out with a sitting area, closeted kitchenette, hydromassage shower and cable internet. Q 48 apartments (18 studio 180, 12 junior 210, 18 executive 250). PHALW hhhh
Upmarket
Bambis Franca Rozmana 10a, tel./fax +382 20 61 10 06, tel. +382 67 61 10 06, hotel-bambis@hotmail. com, www.bambis-hotel.com. A good choice for business visitors or those en route to or from Belgrade, the spotless rooms at Bambis were decorated using eco-friendly paint and have extra wide and long beds and triple glazing to ensure a good nights sleep. The large conference room downstairs seats 300 people. Complimentary laptops are available for workaholics and addicted surfers. Along the road to Belgrade, near the Eko petrol station. Q 13 rooms (singles 60-70, doubles 70-80, 10 apartments 65-110). PHALKW hhhh Best Western Premier A-2, Bul. Svetog Petra Cetinjskog 145, tel. +382 20 40 65 00/+382 20 40 65 10, fax +382 20 40 65 99, montenegro@bestwestern.at, www.bestwestern-ce.com/montenegro. Just in case you needed more proof that Podgorica is now a city of some importance, here it is in the shape of Best Western. Their hotel in the heart of the capitals Novi Grad business district offers, as youd expect, top class facilities including immaculate rooms with all the trimmings, an intimate bar with large terrace, top notch business and conference facilities and highly polished staff. Q 48 rooms (singles 135-175, doubles 195-205, apartments 250-280). PHALGKW hhhh Bojatours D-3, Kralja Nikole 10, tel. +382 20 62
12 23/+382 20 62 12 40, fax +382 20 62 11 53, autoboja@t-com.me. A friendly hotel-cum-travel-agent between the train station and the city centre, with classic-style interiors with the obligatory clashing colours. The smallish rooms all have PCs for internet browsing, but lack central heating in winter. Choose a room facing the back to avoid traffic noise. Q 18 rooms (13 singles 60, 4 doubles 86, 1 apartment 180). PAFDW hhhh
Apartments
Alexandar Lux D -2, Hercegovaka 12, tel. +382 20 66 45 10, fax +382 20 66 43 70, hotelalexandarlux@t-com.me, www.alexandarlux.com. C entrall y l ocate d on pe d estrianise d Hercegovaka street, Alexandar Lux offers guests m o d e r n s tu d i os wi t h fu l l y e q u i pp e d k i tc h e n s. An excellent choice for travelers looking for immaculate furnishings and proximity to Podgoricas bustling nightlife and shopping. Breakfast included. Q 8 suites (4 singles 65-85, 4 doubles 75-95). ALW www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
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wHere to stay
City D-4, Crnogorskih Serdara 5, tel. +382 20 44 15 00, fax +382 20 44 15 01, recepcija@cityhotelmn.com, www.cityhotelmn.com. South of the centre, at the foot of a dainty hill, the City is a large renovated Yugo-era hotel that now offers competent staff and decent-sized cream-coloured rooms. Theres a business centre, caf and a large sheltered terrace at the back of the building. Q 79 rooms (singles 88-108, doubles 113-133, 9 apartments 138-170). PHAUFLGKW hhhh Crna Gora D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2, tel. +382 20 44 34 43, fax +382 20 63 42 94, recepcija@hotelcg. com, www.hotelcg.com. Set to be renovated by the Hilton group, the Crna Gora was built the year Stalin breathed his last and was last renovated just after Gorbachev began steering Socialism into a brick wall. It still represents the pinnacle of communist luxury. For now expect a choice of unrenovated amusements and one or two rooms that appear to have been decorated by a committee of low-budget television makeover gurus, all of them with balconies. Avoid using the overpriced wifi. Q 135 rooms (singles 60-96, doubles 92-117, apartment 143-291). POHAFLKW hhhh
+382 20 66 42 70, eminent@t-com.me, www.eminent. co.me. The best little city centre hotel can be found right beside the cafs on Njegoeva, and for that reason its best to avoid the two front rooms on summer evenings. The business apartments have funky Art Deco style wooden furniture. Nice touches include fresh fruit in the rooms. Q 13 rooms (singles 85, doubles 130, triples 175, apartments 95-135). PHAKW hhhh 02/+382 20 61 00 00, hotelkostasprodaja@hotmail. com, www.hotelkostas.com. Located in the dreary eastern suburbs, or as the brochure puts it between a sea and snowing mountian half and hour from, the glam Kostas is a self-declared VIP apartment hotel. Beyond the reception area that looks like an antique shop, the apartments on offer are decent and spacious and come in a gay variety of colours, and with in-room kitchens and PCs for browsing. Q 14 apartment rooms (singles 69-89, doubles 99-129). PHALKDW hhhh
Kostas K-2, Bul. Pete Proleterske, tel. +382 20 65 67
Eminent D-2, Njegoeva 25, tel. +382 20 66 46 46, fax
Philia G-2, Cetinjski put bb, tel. +382 20 24 29 12/+382 20 60 19 70, info@philiahotel.com, www. philiahotel.com. Podgoricas best-looking hotel can be found on the western fringes of the city, near the Delta City mall. Its neo-Baroque faade hides a very stylish lounge area and a small selection of modern rooms and suites, the latter with large opening windows offering rural views. The meeting rooms and fast wifi make it well-equipped for business travellers. Q 15 rooms (4 singles 51, 8 doubles 72, 3 apartments 100-130). PHALKW hhhh Plavnica Golubovci bb, tel. +382 20 44 37 01, fax
+382 20 44 37 18, info@plavnica.info, www.plavnica. info. The top floor of this Tuscan-style eco-resort, 20km from town by Lake Skadar, has four deluxe apartments, named Jelena, Ksenija, Vjera and Zorka. Each has a sitting room, kitchenette, Jacuzzi and big screens with satellite TV. Q 4 apar tments 130-180. PHALBKC hhhh
Keto K-1, Skopska 1, tel. +382 20 61 12 21, fax +382 20 61 12 24, hotelketo@t-com.me, www.hotelketo. com. Just east of the centre, Keto is a small and modern business hotel with top-notch services that prides itself on its collection of striking Montenegrin paintings, hung throughout the building. In summer, theres a pleasant terrace to relax on. Q 9 rooms (3 singles 49, 3 doubles 79, 3 apartments 99-139). PHALGKW hhhh
Podgorica C-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 1, tel.
+382 20 40 25 00/+382 20 40 25 01, fax +382 20 40 25 01, recepcija@hotelpodgorica.co.me, www. hotelpodgorica.co.me. Built in 1967 and resembling the lair of a Bond film villain, this is one of the best hotels in town. Perched on the riverbank opposite the centre, using rounded river stones to decorate the concrete structure, the renovated rooms have large balconies with river views and are well-appointed with modern conveniences. The restaurant is known for its fish dishes and has a lovely terrace. Q 44 rooms (3 singles 125-135, 33 doubles 140-180, 8 apar tmen ts 190-200). PHAU FLGKW hhhh
Mid-range
Ambiente G-2, Cetinjski put 34, tel./fax +382 20 23
55 30, ambiente@t-com.me, www.hotelambiente.me. Right next to the Delta shopping mall and a short drive to the Novi Grad district, Ambiente features simple rooms with wooden floorboards and reasonable bathrooms (showers only) in two buildings surrounded by a lush garden. The restaurant serves good local cuisine, and a kiwi plant on the terrace provides fresh fruit in summer. Q 14 rooms (singles 40, doubles 60, triples 75, 2 apartments 50-80). PHARLKW hhh
Aria J-3, Mahala bb, tel. +382 20 87 25 70, fax +382
Founded on art
Richard Hill
20 87 25 73, info@hotelaria.me, w w w.hotelaria. me. Just a hop, skip and jump away from the airport, the traditional-style Aria is an excellent option for late arrivals and early departures. All rooms are modern and spacious and theres a gym, bar, conference room and a fine restaurant. While a good 15 minutes from Podgorica proper, the hotel does provide free transport to town and the airport. Q 13 rooms (singles 54-84, doubles 74-89, suites 130-170). HAUFLKW
14
wHere to stay
77/+382 67 52 97 77, msi.invest@t-com.me, www. hotel-laguna.me. Several well-appointed rooms located beside an interior decoration showroom on the outskirts of town. Laguna also has a smart, rustic restaurant thats popular with locals from the surrounding area. Q 7 rooms (singles 35-45, doubles 50-60, apartments 60-90). PALEKW hhh 20 62 52 19, tel. +382 20 64 21 32, bracasofranac@t-com. me, www.hotellovcen.co.me. Along the main road to Bar past the airport, this travellers hotel has good clean rooms with classic brown furnishings and a guarded car and truck parking area. Q 24 rooms (8 singles 40-60, 13 doubles 60-95, 3 triples 90-130). PHAULKW hhh
Laguna G-3, Vojislavljevia 72, tel. +382 20 64 17
Loven Zetskih vladara bb, Petrovaki put, tel./fax +382
Lively Hercegovacka street
JvM
Piramida Nikole Tesle 126, Zagori, tel. +382 20 61 16 08/+382 69 43 39 33, piramidahotel@gmail.com, www. piramida.me. This wonderful little hotel, located just north of town, was operating as a bed and breakfast at time of research but is set to change when the new restaurant is opened in late 2010. Rooms are lovely, with lively colours and plenty of comfort. Theres a family room, as well as a room with a bathroom across the hall (the cheaper rate in the price list). Both floors have living room style foyers. Q 10 rooms (doubles 20-63, singles 15-42). PHLGKCW hhh Rene Pljevaljska 10, tel. +382 20 66 05 99/+382 67 80 80 10, hotel_rene@t-com.me. Way out along the Belgrade road and suffering from the traffic noise, the decent rooms at Rene are no cheaper nor better than those in the city centre. A taxi here from the centre costs about 2.50. Q 5 rooms (1 single 25, 4 doubles 45-55). PALKW hhh arovi Nikole Tesle 62, tel./fax +382 20 61 22 17,
hotel.sarovic@gmail.com. Far off in a northern residential suburbs (a 2 taxi ride from the centre), youd think youd get some peace and quiet here. Not when we visited. The restaurant and garden terrace are popular for weddings involving music blasted loud enough to dislodge fillings. The large rooms are otherwise fine, and have a kitchen with sink and oven. The cheaper rooms share clean communal bathrooms. Q 7 rooms (singles 21, doubles 31). PHLK hhh
Evropa F-4, Orahovaka 16, tel./fax +382 20 62 34 44, shole@t-com.me, www.hotelevropa.co.me. A hotel next to a bus and train station that prides itself on its budget price simply shouldnt be this good, but once again the good people of Podgorica have torn up the rule book and given us something altogether unexpected. Sure the rooms are small, agreed theyre not exactly bursting with trouser presses, but hey, its clean, quiet, and best of all it stands head and shoulders above many others when it comes to service. Recommended. Q 22 rooms ( 35-55 per person). PHARLKDW hhh Holiday K-1, Prve Proleterske Brigade 11, tel. +382 20
61 14 11, fax +382 20 61 16 99, recepcija@hotelholidaypg.com, www.hotelholidaypg.com. A clean and cheerful out-of-town hotel featuring a range of singles and doubles with basic pine furniture, colourful bedspreads, minibars, the occasional balcony, basic showers, and one rather fancy room with an enormous bed. Its short on bells and whistles, but if you dont need them and arent bothered about the trawl in and out of the city then this place is a rather nice option. PALW hhh
fax +382 20 62 79 99, hotelideal@t-com.me, www. hotelideal.me. Selling itself as a business hotel, Ideal is a functional place with adequate, basic rooms, unideally located out of town. Q 30 rooms (singles 30, doubles 45, triples 60). PHALKW hhh 00, fax +382 20 40 54 06, hotelkerber@t-com.me, www.hotelkerber.co.me. A marvellous location just a few seconds from the central square and hidden away inside a small shopping centre, facilities include plain and simple rooms all coming with crisp white bedding, cable television, DSL cable internet and minibars. Among the other good things in store are a mediocre restaurant, small fitness room and the possibility to hire laptops, DVD players and camcorders. The mind boggles. Q 20 rooms (2 singles 56, 11 doubles 69-110, 7 apartments 89-120). PHAGKDW hhh
Ideal K-2, rtava Faizma bb, tel. +382 20 62 70 67,
Kubura G-2, Rusa Radulovia 79, tel. +382 69 06 65 77/+382 69 06 65 78. Good-value rooms with cable TV and free wifi in a suburb just to the west of the city. Rooms share clean facilities, while the apartments are en suite and also have kitchenettes. Q 10 rooms (singles 15, doubles 20, triples 30, quads 40, apartments 30). PW
Guesthouses
Hostels
Kerber E-2, Novaka Miloeva 6, tel. +382 20 40 54
97 51/+382 69 25 55 01, office@montenegrohostel. com, www.montenegrohostel.com. For the young and budget-minded, Podgoricas very first proper hostel, set in an apartment close to the train and bus stations, is a pretty good option. Situated on the second floor of a quiet residential building, it has a small kitchen, common room and two bathrooms. All rooms are clean and simple, and include lockers. The hostel organises very reasonably priced tours to all the major tourist hotspots in Montenegro and arranges hiking and rafting trips. Guests get discounts for stays in their Budva and Kotor sister hostels. Q 3 rooms (dorm beds 11-15, 1 double 26-34, 1 apartment 30-40). PGW
Montenegro Hostel F-4, eevia 25, tel. +382 69 03
restaurants
While its no gourmet destination, Podgorica has plenty of decent places to eat - and above all its often very affordable. The prices in brackets refer to the average cost of a main course. be appalling and overpriced, the people who run this delightful discovery churn out a wide range of fabulous, ready-to-eat food from huge slabs of meat to goulash to delicious fresh salads. Express Restoran is pure class. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. P
15
Symbol key
P Air conditioning E Live music L Guarded parking W Wi-Fi V Home delivery A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled B Outside seating
Shanghai (Hong Kong) D-2, Stanka Dragojevia 14, tel. +382 69 12 01 20/+382 69 02 24 38, www. kineskirestoran.me. Chinese chef Mr. Li runs the kitchen of Podgoricas first Asian eatery, serving a wide range of popular Kineski dishes, toned down in intensity for Balkan tastes. The narrow, double-level restaurant has lavish Chinese decorations and plinkity-ploink music to synchronise your chopstick skills to. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (6-12). PAVBW
Chinese
Bakeries
Dion G-3, Voislavljevia bb. A small selection of sticky buns
and soft drinks with the opportunity of digesting on the hoof, or at one of the tables outside. Q Open 24hrs. P
Inpek E-2, Trg Republike 29. A small selection of sweet and savoury pastries with outside seating overlooking the main square. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. B Krisma E-2, Balia 5, tel. +382 20 65 87 10. A very
good bakery and caf in the city centre; pop in for a croissant or linger for a light lunch. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Colombia D/E-1, Bul. Ivana Crnojevica 143, tel. +382 67 69 07 28/+382 67 61 14 03. Locals come here to order el sandwich, stuffed pancakes eaten like a wrap, and named after any of a dozen Latin American countries. Also at Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 71. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. P Mimi E-2, Trg Republike 31, tel. +382 20 66 52 88.
A frequently hectic affair involving much dashing about by dark young ladies in aprons, the deal here is a good one. Part patisserie, part burger joint and part shop, drop by for takeaway treats such as sticky buns and savoury Turkish pastries, sit outside with a snack and watch the world drift by, or take advantage of their superb range of ultra-cold soft drinks. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PB
Fast food
Buffet express
Express Restoran F-4, Trg golootokih rtava (bus
station), tel. +382 69 62 07 84. Clearly never having received the information that bus station food should
kolijera (Voda u Kru) D-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevia 151,

tel. +382 69 54 43 75. An immensely popular hole-in-thewall pancake place, dishing out cheap sweet and savoury pancakes. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00.
20 66 42 09. Hamburgers, pljeskavica, kebabs and french fries sold till late. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00. Closed Sun.
Voda u Kru D-1, Bul. Ivana Crnojevia 149, tel. +382
Burek
The international dish of the Balkans, eaten from Montenegro all the way to Turkey and beyond, burek is a delicious pie made with flaky pastry, and stuffed with fillings like cheese, meat, potato, zeljanica (vegetables), spinach or mushrooms.
Sarajka K-2, Bul. Pete Proleterske, Zgrada

elebic, tel. +382 69 83 08 31. Just what you need after an evening in the pub - fabulous cheap and greasy burek. Down it all with yoghurt like the locals do, and have a fresh cherry strudel pie for dessert. The friendly girls working here dont speak a word of foreign but are all smiles. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. P
Zabjelo E-1, 19 Decembra (City Stadium). The Bob Marley Burek Shop is a shrine to Saint Bob, Bhudda and all things rasta. The burek is excellent and a good deal for 2 with a drink. Zabjelo is the last shop on the west side of the stadium. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. B
Old-style shops in central Pogorica JvM
16
restaurants
Fish
Dali A-2, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona 87, tel. +382 69 23
999. Run by a real fisherman, Podgoricas newest seafood restaurant has a bright two-floor interior with a seafaring theme, and is named after Jack Londons shipwreck story Sea-Wolf. All fish and seafood is caught fresh and although theres a menu, its probably best to point out your preferred fish from the display, or let the cook do what he does best with the catch of the day - excellent results guaranteed. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGB
Lupo di Mare D-2, Trg Republike 22, tel. +382 67 90 92
45 67/+382 69 01 90 20, rezervacije@dali.co.me, www.dali.co.me. Ask a local for a good restaurant and its likely theyll send you here, in the Novi Grad area. Dalis menu features very well-made local and international fish, pizza and pasta dishes served by friendly staff. The interior could have been a tad much more Salvadoresque, but thankfully the mad Montenegrin drivers tackling the roundabout outside provide enough surrealism. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PALGW
Maa B-2, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 31, tel. +382 20 22
44 60, radenko-masa@t-com.me. Featuring both a great outdoor terrace and a classy upstairs restaurant, Maas reputation for fresh seafood is a worthy one indeed. The vast English menu also includes truffles, veal and lobster, all served in majestic surroundings by friendly and attentive gentlemen. Highly recommended for the full blow out or as a decent venue for informal business meetings over a good cup of coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAEGBW
Duet E-1, Vaka urovia bb, tel. +382 20 66 58 65/+382 20 66 58 66. A decent place to eat below the stadium, Duet has walls hung with modern art including a picture of Commander Che, and serves the full range of local and Italian food, with some quirky choices such as gruzijska hacapuri (Georgian cheese pie). QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (3-7). PABW Gossip A-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 153, tel. +382 63
23 45 67, rezervacije@gossip.co.me, www.gossip.co.me. Half restaurant, half lounge bar, this sleek undertaking is Podgoricas prime jetset destination for now. Guests can enjoy imaginative Mediterranean food, with several turkey dishes, and things like pork chops with honey. Move to the other side of the space and youre lounging. Here, the classy dcor is enhanced with subtle chandelier lighting and less subtle thumping music, and theres a cigar corner for smokers. Next to the Best Western hotel. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAB
Plavnica Golubovci bb, tel. +382 20 44 37 00/+382 20 44 37 01, info@plavnica.info, www.plavnica.info. This fabulous eco-resort is at the edge of Lake Skadar, a short drive south of the airport. In summer, the lakeside pool is great for spending a day (10 gets you a sun bed and towel) or for partying by night, but most visitors will be interested in its upmarket restaurant, serving a variety of lake and sea fish. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. (10-26). PAULEB
Maral B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 56, tel. +382 20
International
Crna Gora Restaurant D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog
2 (Crna Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 44 34 66, www. hotelcg.com. In keeping with the hotels ostentatious leanings, Crna Goras in-house restaurant is both vast and posh. True it isnt as grand as it once was, but the National Tourism Association of Montenegro deem it good enough to slap a recommendation sticker on the door for its authentic national cuisine. Among the dishes on offer find wild boar, hare and roe deer. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PAEB
24 61 94/+382 69 38 58 90, restoranmarsal@t-com.me. A modestly-sized restaurant along the main boulevard in Novi Grad, with plenty of teak wood, a semi-circle of floral stained glass on the ceiling, small lamps on the tables and a backlit bookcase for browsing. You can try cooking your own food on a hot rock here, washing down the results with some excellent wines. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PABW tel. +382 20 20 51 10/+382 68 40 78 44, info@ restoranopera.com, www.restoranopera.com. Dimmed lighting and padded seating along the walls below city photos determine the atmosphere of this classy restaurant and club. Lunch or dine on Italian/French cuisine and try the cakes - or for a proper night at Opera, come on Friday and Saturday nights when it becomes a lively cocktail bar. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00:02:00. PAB
Opera A-2, Rimski trg 59 (Poslovni Centar Kruevac),
22 44 33. Virtu distinguishes itself with its gallery-like interior and its wildly extensive menu, which includes everything from hotdogs to omelets and pastas. Situated on the wide boulevard that crisscrosses town, diners and coffee drinkers can either sit in the glass-walled terrace pod outside and people watch, or inside and admire some of the artwork. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PABW
Virtu B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 131, tel. +382 20
Italian
St Petar Cetinjskis monument
Sco
carine@t-com.me, www.carine.co.me. A huge and massively popular conglomeration of restaurant, caf, bar, bakery and more. The modern restaurant section, inside at the back, looks great with its wooden floors and white tables but does suffer a lot from the noise from the other sections and from the waiters scurrying everywhere. Still, the fresh fish dishes, the local meats and the Italian food on offer is very decent and reasonably priced. Also in the Novi Grad area. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (7-15). PABKW
Carine Centar E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 40 24 00,
restaurants
17
24 15 33, www.carine.co.me. The second edition of the citys largest and most popular dining spot has a similar menu and the same kind of crowd, and can be found in a long space in the Novi Grad part of town. The venue is so long, in fact, that they need signposting to avoid customers getting lost between the pizzeria, caf, national restaurant and the 30-metre long terrace. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PABW
Carine Restoran B-2, Moskovska 2-9, tel. +382 20
mushroom and courgette, or a fresh fish dish. Walk towards Moskovska to find it in the middle of the block. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (5-15). PABW
Mona Lisa E-2, Balia 4, tel. +382 20 23 05 48. La Gi-
ocondas faint smile overlooks this intimate caf and restaurant, with comfy seats and a stained glass window featuring leaves and eyes. Its a good place for a glass of wine or other drinks, and theres Italian fare available too at decent prices. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Forma E-4, Mitra Bakia bb, tel. +382 20 62 36 91. The best place to wait for a bus or train is just across the square inside this modern caf and pizzeria, or on its great terrace. Apart from these pies, Forma also serves good sandwiches and pancakes. Also in the city centre at Njegoeva 14 (tel. +382 69 10 02 00). QOpen 08:00 24:00. PAB
tratoria.giardino@hotmail.com. Arguably the best restaurant in the citys rapidly expanding new business district, Il Giardino offers everything from minestrone soup to pasta and risotto, all cooked by a local chef who earned his wings in Italy. It has a lovely setting overlooking a pedestrianised square and is rustically themed with lots of coloured plates. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (7-20). PAGBW 24 29 02/+382 69 30 33 03, www.leonardo-restoran. com. Hidden in a humdrum residential area on the west bank, this delightful two-storey caf and restaurant is well worth looking up for its excellent Italian food and its relaxed terrace. The mercifully limited menu lists various specialities. Try the parmesan cheese starter followed by the gnocchi with
Il Giardino A-2, Rimski trg 28, tel. +382 69 31 33 13,
Sempre D-2, Stanka Dragojevia 14, tel. +382 69 55 16 61. Small and unassuming, the owner of the Ristorante Italiano Sempre has gone to great efforts to concentrate on the food rather than the dcor. This is allegedly the only restaurant in Podgorica that makes its own pasta, including some fine ravioli and gnocchi. It also serves plenty of meat and has a few decent wines to compliment the food. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PAG Venom C-1, Svetozara Markovia 52a, tel. +382 67 80 87 08. Naming your restaurant after something that will kill you may not seem smart, but the locals munching away at the pizzas and pasta dishes here certainly dont seem to mind. The large and light two-level space attracts plenty of students from the nearby campus. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB
Leonardo B-1, Svetozara Markovia bb, tel. +382 20
Mexican
Blues Bar E-2, Novaka Miloeva 44, tel. +382 67 20 24
44. The Blues Bar offers a touch of Mexico in Montenegro; the rear dining room is used for serving local versions of faita, kvasadilja, burito, encilada and gvakamolja sos. Tex-Mex lovers better stick to drinking in the section at the front, with events posters and local paintings on the walls. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PBW
18
restaurants
Montenegrin
The local food is widely known as National cuisine even though its rather similar to that of surrounding countries. Montenegrins love grilled fish and meat, vegetables and simple, fresh salads. 11 10 00. A delightfully designed restaurant in the park at the southern end of Moskovska street. It has an upmarket rustic interior with two large rooms, intimate corners and private function rooms. Expect perfectly grilled fish dishes, Montenegrin favourites and great desserts. Reservations recommended on weekend nights. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. ALW
La Buena Vida B-4, 8 marta 13, epurci, tel. +382 69 55
01 70. Traditional food, with daily performances of sevdalinkas, romantic songs from the times that Podgorica was ruled by the Ottomans. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. PAULEG
Anovi A-2, Spomen park Kruevac, blok 9, tel. +382 69
Laterna E-2, Marka Miljanova 41, tel. +382 20 23 23 31/+382 69 40 26 55. A delightful barn-interior restaurant lavishly decorated with wooden beams, lamps and other such rusticalities. The pizzas are good, but have a look at the rest of the menu too. Meat loaf, plum-stuffed kebab, steaks, seafood, home made pasta and sandwiches are all possible and delicious. Our only gripe is the location of the terrace next to a busy road. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PAEGB
Bakina Kua A-2, Trg Vektre 12, tel. +382 20 23 43
Plantae Winery
Montenegros largest exporter is the Plantae wine company, spread out on the plain immediately east of Podgoricas airport. Producing wine, brandy, table grapes, peaches and even Californian trout; the Vranac wine is its most famous product. Founded in 1963, Plantae grows two local varieties of grapes, red Vranac and white Krsta, as well as Chardonnay, Cabernet, Merlot, and Sauvignon. The main emovsko Polje vineyard field is huge, the largest in Europe at 2310 hectares, planted with 11 million grapevines that are watered via drip irrigation, and harvested by hand. After harvesting, grapes are processed in two wine factories nearby, though the new ipanik wine is most interesting. Part of the large emovsko Polje vineyard, this is a huge 7,000 square metre and 365-metre long tunnel dug 30 metres below a hill, where wine is kept at an ideal and constant temperature of 17-19C and 70+80% humidity. Around 2 million liters of wine, among them top local wines like Chardonnay Barique, Vranac Barique, Crnogorska Oka and Premijer, is matured and aged in wooden barrels and bottles here; some 28,000 bottles of wine are up to 10 years old. Visiting the vineyards and cellar is possible in the Vinski put or Wine route arrangements for groups of over 10 persons, though from May to October its possible to join the five-hour English-language couples tour for 200, which includes a tour of the vineyards in a horse-drawn coach, wine tasting at the ipanik wine cellar, taking in the great views of Skadar lake and Podgorica, a traditional dinner at the Jezero restaurant with a bottle of Vranac wine, and a photo CD. Plantae, Put Radomira Ivanovia 2, Podgorica, tel. +382 20 65 80 28, info@plantaze.com, www. plantaze.com.
38. Conveniently located off Rimski Trg in the Novi Grad business district, Grandmas Cooking offers diners wellprepared traditional dishes, including tasty pork medallions and Montenegrin polenta, at very reasonable prices. The rustically styled indoor dining area is invitingly pleasant, with brick archways and warm lighting and theres friendly staff. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AB
Dvor D-3, Kralja Nikole 36, tel. +382 20 62 22 65,
restoran.dvor@gmail.com. The only real traditional-style restaurant in Podgorica is located in the 18th century Cubranovici house in the old town. Theres lots of grilled meat and fish, excellent local salads, and live music to listen to. Find it set back from the street, behind the Bojatours hotel building. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PAEB
Imanje Knjaz G-1, Mareza bb, tel. +382 69 02 30 34, rezervacije@imanje-knjaz.me, www.imanje-knjaz.me. The Dukes Estate serves traditional Montenegrin dishes and a few surprises including Wellington beefsteak, gourmet burgers and a decent vegetarian menu. The exceedingly scenic outdoor garden along a leafy turn of the Mareza River also has a small playground. Q Open 24hrs. TALEB Kuina () D/E-3, Trg Boane Vuini 2, tel.
+382 67 45 00 00/+382 69 11 22 33, restorankuzina@ gmail.com, www.restorankuzina.com. Set on a modern square, the rustic interior of Kuina is something of a surprise, albeit a pleasant one. Characterised by stone walls, heavy wooden furniture, photos of old soldiers and books, the traditional restaurant excels in local meals such as Durmitor-style lamb and polenta. In winter the cosy basement room is the place to be. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAVEB
Jezero J-3, Petrovaki put, Vranjina, tel. +382 20
87 91 06, www.plantaze.com. Along the main road to the coast, 25km from Podgorica, Jezero overlooks its namesake, Lake Skadar. Fish such as carp and eel are naturally the main item on the menu, though theres also grilled meat and interesting dishes like podgoriki popeci - rolled meat with prosciutto and cheese. Besides being served, Plantaes wines are sold in a shop here too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. ALB
The new Cathedral of the Resurrection
Richard Hill
Mareza G-1, Mareki put bb, tel. +382 20 28 10 09, www.plantaze.com. A large restaurant beside Plantaes ponds stocked with Californian trout, six kilometres west of the city, is the perfect place to let fish swim in wine. Try the chowders or soups, grilled meat, traditional roast meat under a metal bell, or the sea and river fish. Reservation required. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. AB www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
restaurants
19
Mareza G-1, Mareki put bb, tel. +382 20 28 10 09, www.plantaze.com. A large restaurant beside Plantaes ponds stocked with Californian trout, six kilometres west of the city, is the perfect place to let fish swim in wine. Try the chowders or soups, grilled meat, traditional roast meat under a metal bell, or the sea and river fish. Reservation required. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. AB Nijagara Cijevna bb, Kue Rakia, tel. +382 20 87 01 06/+382 69 02 23 99. Beside a cascading weir in the Cijevna river and quirkily named after another waterfall, it may not live up to the name, but the restaurant with its breezy terrace and shaded tables on the lawn is lovely for a relaxed lunch of national food and drinks. Find it 5km southeast of Podgorica. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. PALBW Pod Volat D-4, Trg Vojvode Beir Bega Osmanagia
1, tel. +382 69 61 86 33. Goulash and grilled meat are served beneath photos of old Podgorica at the busy Pod Volat, the only eatery on the citys old town square, by the clocktower. Popular with older locals as well as with students for cheap boozing before a night out, its certainly authentic. In summer theres a large terrace behind the building. Q Open 06:00 - 24:00. PAB
Stara Kua Iva Andria 5, Zagori, tel. +382 69 03 02 04, www.starakuca.me. The location of the Old House, in a quiet residential neighbourhood, makes for a soothing evening of dining, and provides visitors wi th an oppor tuni ty to see how the locals li ve. This exclusive restaurant serves only national Montenegrin dishes, so fresh that the fish on your plate was happil y swimming laps in one of the pools just minu tes earlier. Guests are welcomed by live local music daily except Sundays. Stara Kua can be found just nor th of Gorica hill. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. PALEB
Pizza
20 23 45 15. Sixteen reasonably priced pizzas and a number of other dishes including mediocre hamburgers, omelettes and hot sandwiches inside a pretty gingerbread house complete with gingham curtains and a small cast of exotic waitresses. If you cant stand the dcor, find four small tables parked on the pavement outside. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PB
Sidro A-1, Bul. Dorda Vaing tona 27, tel. +382
75 55. A lovely traditional restaurant that looks very nice inside despite the dodgy setting in the stadium. Skadarlija has pleasantly pompous waitstaff, and the full set of grilled meat, fish and beef steak meals. For a local speciality, order the Podgoriki popeci, meat with cheese and ham. Q Open 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 20:00. (5-8). PAB
Skadarlija E-1, Vaka urovia bb, tel. +382 68 88
Nostalgija G-2, Cetinjski put bb, tel. +382 69 09 09 99, info@nostalgija.me, www.nostaligija.me. A delightful Yugoslav kitsch heaven, Nostalgija capitalises on the socialist days of yore, with a variety of dishes, wines and assorted curio like faded postcards, paper notes and film footage from the good old times. The restaurant is just south of the Delta City Mall in the Mili building. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. A Winter - Spring 2012
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CaFs
Coffee is the most popular daytime drink and every single deal in the city is made over an espresso or cappuccino at a caf. Do try the Turkish coffee, though indicate how sweet you want it beforehand and wait with sipping till the gunk has sunk. Expect drinks and second-hand smoke, but no food or snacks. 67 51 52 53. Chain-smoking waiters, modern art and a terrace full of thugs seem to be what this place is all about. Handy for people watching, munching pizza and a quick injection of espresso but little else. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PAGBW 29 03 01, www.astoriamontenegro.com. Bright, modern and overlooking the shops inside the mall, the Astoria is a good place to interrupt your shopping spree for some coffee or a meal; breakfast, salads, soup and hot food and even cocktails are all available. Try one of the freshly made risottos. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. AW select your coffee and point out the delicious mafin, brownie or pannini sandwich of your desire. Also at the airport. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PALXW
Crna Gora Caf D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2 (Crna
Alpe Bar B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 88, tel. +382
Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 44 34 66, www.hotelcg.com. Overpriced drinks and cakes in Communist opulence inside a massive banquet-style hall, Crna Goras monster indoor caf is best left alone. Its fabulous terrace on the other hand, complete with lots of wicker chairs and a prime view of one of Podgoricas more sparklingly amusing crossroads, is really rather good indeed. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PJAEB
Astoria G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 20
Benz E-2, Miljana Vukova 31, tel. +382 67 52 24 44, caffebenz@t-com.me. Run by a former Partizan Belgrade footballer, Benz isnt quite sure what it is. What it isnt, however, is bad. Whether you want to tip back a quick espresso on a chrome barstool, drink a beer in front of the television or demolish an ice cream among the palm trees in the back garden, pop along to rudimentary Benz and your dreams will all come true. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGW
35 51. Clearly owned by an artist, this caf is different from the catalogue designer places elsewhere in town. Comfy chairs and sofas are strewn around, theres a sunken area beside some Fawlty Towers steps, and the walls are hung with mirrors, paintings and assorted artworks. Drinks include coffee specialities and 100% natural fruit cocktails, and snacks and light meals are available from the kitchen. Visit on Wednesdays for live local sevdalinka music. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00. PAE 67 54 25 04. Whats in a name, indeed. One of a handful of large and popular cafs along this stretch of road, this one attracts a slightly older crowd sitting in leather seats on the two floors of the light, glass-walled space. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PAB 11. Illusion is the first of all pleasures, indeed. A decadent caf opposite the law school, LAngolo has candelabras, walls splattered with Wildes words of wisdom, rich tapestries, one really tall couch and a decent menu of drinks, salads, sandwiches and pizzas. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. AW
Duhovni Centar (Spiritual Centre) D-2, Njegoeva 27, tel. +382 20 66 55 19. Food for the soul is served at this delightful church-run caf, an island of peace amidst the hedonistic bars along Njegoeva. The wooden tables and benches in the simple interior are overlooked by beautiful photos of Orthodox monasteries. Set up as a meeting place as well as a caf where Orthodox believers can eat food adhering to the prescribed diet (no meat, eggs or dairy products on Wednesday, Friday and certain other days), the friendly staff is just as pleased to serve cheese pies, sausages, hamburgers, cakes and pancakes to foreign travellers. Specialities of the house are the wholesome wheat-withcream dessert, and the freshly made fruit juice. Best of all, its very cheap. Recommended. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. PG Fab Live Cijevna bb, tel. +382 69 37 41 11, info@fablive. com, www.fablive.me. This caf has a petrol station attached to it, rather than the other way round. Along the road to the coast, Fab Live has deep leather seats, a bar with huge whiskey bottles, a semi-enclosed terrace with garden views, screens for sports and a menu with decent sandwiches, toast, pizza and pancakes. If youre into aviation, this is where you can hook up with Montenegro Airlines staff having a coffee away from work. At the UPM petrol station, 100 metres past the airport road. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PA Forum E-2, Miljana Vukova 1/3, tel. +382 67 81 07 77,
forum@forumcg.com, www.forumcg.com. A caf with dazzlingly lit modern interiors, composed of everything between red bamboo and gleaming stainless steel. Head here for a drink, light snacks or to watch everyone else being watched. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PABW
Bummba E-2, Novaka Miloeva 46, tel. +382 67 56
Caffe Caffe B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 19, tel. +382
Caffe LAngolo B-1, 13 Jula 13, tel. +382 67 41 65
Grand B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 23, tel. +382 69 33 32 21/+382 20 24 23 21. A small but refined caf along Podgoricas coffee boulevard, busy with animated discussions all day long. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PABW Hahaha D-2, Njegoeva 18, tel. +382 67 52 27 37. One of
the few places in Montenegro with decent banana splits on the menu, Hahaha sets itself apart from the rest in at least one respect. The outdoor seating area on the newly renovated section of Njegoeva is nice draw too. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. B
Corto Maltese D-2, Njegoeva 21, tel. +382 68 74 07 30. Another venue named after and illustrated with blow-ups from an Italian 1970s comic series, in this case one about a valiant captain defending the weak. This caf is more mainstream and family-orientated than the Alan Ford, serving snacks like pancakes, omelettes and salads. During the summer, theres a pleasantly shaded terrace. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PAB Costa Coffee G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall),
tel. +382 68 84 01 01, podgoricadt@deltacoffee.rs. Confusing the locals, this is the first self-service caf in Montenegro where you need to queue up at the counter to
second edition of Haos has a lively atmosphere, matched in degree by its eclectic music and dcor. During the summer months, the caf opens up onto the pedestrian street, allowing the breeze to waft in. The cakes here (with eat-in, madeto-order and home delivery options) are tasty too. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. AVB
Haos E-2, Hercegovaka 29, tel. +382 20 66 52 24. This
Kaktus D/E-2, Njegoeva 47, tel. +382 67 53 29 07. Drinks only are served at this small caf/bar along the main nightlife strip, where live Rock n Roll is played on Thursdays and DJs fill the floor on weekend nights. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.PEB www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
CaFs
Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25, www.karver.org. Taking up three renovated floors of Podgoricas former Turkish bathhouse, this distinctly different caf by the river under the bridge sells a range of soft drinks, beer and coffee and is most remarkable for stocking a large range of (albeit rather out of date) English language newspapers and magazines. Buying a book in the bookshop next door entitles you to a free cup of coffee. Q Open 08:30 - 23:30. Closed Sun. PEGW Maxim B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 98, tel. +382 20 22 83 34/+382 67 84 84 89. A pleasant caf on the ground floor of a modern building along the Novi Grads main drag. A sunny terrace allows you to warm your bones on sunny autumn days. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PAB Nero E-3, Vuka Karadica bb, tel. +382 68 60 08 02.
The link between the Roman emperor and the large photos of Pragues main square in the hallway leading up to Nero is vague, but the bar is well worth a visit for the jazz concerts that take place every Friday and Saturday from 21:00. At other times, its a decent place for a quiet drink amidst a classic wooden interior with bookshelves and photos. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PBW
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gro), tel. +382 20 62 18 50, www.padcafe.me. In a brilliant move, this caf on the first floor of the mall has iPad devices (firmly attached to each table) that guests can use for free game playing and internet browsing. If that isnt enough to keep you seated, theres a range of coffees, liquors and soft drinks, and a delicious menu of homemade cakes, muffins and cookies. Q Open 09:00 23:00. 20 66 47 17/+382 67 24 07 77, prague@t-com.me. Another bar that has the Golden City as its theme - do we sense some jealousy for its good looks here? You can wash away all thoughts of intercity animosity with the snacks, pancakes and pizza served at this spacious L-shaped caf on the sunny side of the stadium. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PABW
Pad Caf Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 (Mall of Montene-
Prague E-1, 19 Decembra 1 (City Stadium), tel. +382
tel. +382 20 66 40 86. Operating a thoroughly agreeable outdoor caf in summer, in winter Taleia retreats into the theatre. Head through the door and up the stairs on your right to be greeted by a rather vulgar bar complete with Hollywood legends on the walls and a mirror ball. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAGW
Taleia D-2, Bokeka bb (Montenegrin National Theatre),
97 69/+382 68 60 46 16. Brimming with pastel shades, lots of fancy trimmings and what appears to be a small collection of unemployed young professionals, there are basically two options here. First you could go to the back and sit and watch the television. Second (at least if the weather is good) you could opt for a seat at the front of the caf, which rather charmingly turns into a terrace with the help of a lot of clever hinges. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 01:00. PEGW
Rakija Bar E-2, Novaka Miloeva 46, tel. +382 69 89
67 30 00 50. Tien is a pleasant low-key hangout where you can sip coffee and soft drinks, and have a light snack or two. The caf is a quaint two stories, refreshingly devoid of the usual Podgorica bling, and with outdoor seating overlooking the square. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. ABW
Tien Caffe A-2, Trg Sv. Petra Cetinjskog, tel. +382
Rembrandt D-2, Njegoeva 9, tel. +382 69 67 82 22, rembrandt@t-com.me. Reproductions of works by the Dutch master grace the walls of this modern/classic restaurant and caf, with a small basement room. The menu lists a variety of snacks and meals, including cake, salads, pasta and fish. On warm days, join the locals on the terrace along the newly pedestrianised street for a coffee. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAB Stari Sat C-1, 13 Jula bb, tel. +382 20 23 71 33. A modest caf on the ground floor of a residential block, serving coffee and other drinks to students from the nearby faculties. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PB www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
Titograd D-2, Njegoeva 41. A Commie-retro bar that pokes subtle fun at the time when Podgorica was called Tito City. The bars logo is adorned with Zastava cars and bulldozers, while old TG car license plates with red stars decorate the walls. Interestingly, the bar is the only place in town with a good selection of 1950s city photos on display. And on top of all that they serve drinks too, comrade. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PAEBW Trendy E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 40 24 00, carine@t-com.me, www.carine.co.me. Part of the Carine complex, the caf section facing Trg Republike square has decorations looking like ribbons of pasta and the exact same food and drinks menu as on the mothership. Due to the busy corridor linking to Carine it lacks the intimacy and calm of the other cafs along the square. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PABW Winter - Spring 2012
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Sod school and work, most Podgoricans spend all their lives sitting in one of the many cafs and bars. Open for first coffee early in the morning until the last beer or cocktail late at night, these places are where life happens. In Montenegro, they can make alcohol out of any fruit and recommended local drinks include lozova rakija and ljivovica. Youngsters may need to prove they are over 18 before being served alcohol.
Bars
89 87/+382 20 66 47 77. A modest bar along Podgoricas main nightlife strip is dedicated to a 1970s Italian cartoon about a set of blundering secret agents that became immensely popular in Yugoslavia. A shelf of comics is available for browsing, theres Guinness, Kilkenny and Pilsner to drink and a good variety of people to chat to. QOpen 08:00 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. PEBW
Alan Ford D-2, Stanka Dragojevia 10, tel. +382 69 38
Boara E-1, 19 Decembra 21, tel. +382 67 56 02 70. A fabulous little place at the entrance to the Gorica uma Park. The small space is hung with old photos of completely unknown local tennis players and some rock stars. The place livens up in summer with a pleasant terrace under the pine trees, live soul and blues music on Tuesdays and DJs playing on Fridays and Saturdays. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PEB
49 44. A very popular and friendly choice facing the park, the Buda Bar has an oversized statue of the deity, Indian decorations, a covered terrace and sandwiches for nourishment. It gets hard to find a spot to sit at lunchtime and especially after dark, when DJs liven up the place. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PAEB
Bridge over the Moraca river
Slobodan Dumni
Buda Bar D-2, Stanka Dragojevia 26, tel. +382 67 34
69 12 34 56. Lounge goers seeking glitter and glam should head to Priv, on the corner with Bul. Dorda Vaingtona. The interior is amusingly glitzy, with gold chains dripping from the ceiling. In addition to alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, the bar also serves breakfast from 09:30 to 11:30. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. ABW
Priv A-1/2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 130, tel. +382
Pub 111 E-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevia 99, tel. +382 68 30
Crna Gora Bar E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2 (Crna
Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 44 34 46. As with several other bars and cafs in Podgorica, there are separate summer and winter venues here. During the warmer months the bar moves into the restaurant with its large terrace, in the colder months a small bar opens next to the reception, which is hardly worth commenting on unless you appreciate 1980s communist design or are interested in what Podgorica looked like before it was flattened by the Alllies and the Nazis during WWII. The photographs of the pre-war city on the walls speak volumes. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. PAB
08 88. One of the funkiest interiors in town, a high two-storey white-stone saloon lined with booths, is host to a crowd of young revellers on weekend nights. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PABW
Soul II Soul D-2, Njegoeva 34, tel. +382 67 33 00 01. A landlocked beach bar with a terrace at the front and a picture of golden sands inside. Twirling fans overhead keep the punters cool in summer, while in winter DJs drop by to heat things up with disco and house music. QOpen 08:00 02:00. PABW The Nags Head D-2, Bokeka 12, tel. +382 69 67 16
68/+382 68 23 38 13. The UK television series Only Fools and Horses was immensely popular in Yugoslavia. This bar was named in honour of Del and Rodneys local pub, and the informal dark wooden interior is filled with pictures of the two anti-heroes. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PAEB
Greenwich D-2, Njegoeva 27, tel. +382 67 34 49 45.
One of the more sophisticated bars along the street, Greenwich has a long bar, photos and mirrors on the ceilings and a variety of mismatched furniture. The place positively rocks during the regular live acts, which range from Jazz and Blues to Latino. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PAB
cool designer bar attracts students and other loafers with its central terrace, soft seats and high stools at the bar. Amidst all the sharp Scandinavian lines, just to remind you where you are again, a portrait of an Orthodox saint hangs on the wall. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PB
Inter City D-2, Njegoeva 27, tel. +382 67 66 56 69. A
Tropicana D-2, Bokeka 16, tel. +382 69 50 46 38.
Nice Vice E-2, Slobode 82, tel. +382 20 23 03 94/+382 67 20 32 22. The vice here is certainly nice enough to make the venue one of the best bars in Podgorica. The L-shaped pubs interior has leather seats, books and bottles, and although the daytime atmosphere is calm enough for a quiet coffee, on weekend nights the live music from 23:30 turns it into a great dance venue. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. PAEB Podgorica In Your Pocket
Simply furnished and with some fine modern art on the walls, Tropicana pulls a decent crowd of arty types and business professionals before and after performances at the Montenegrin National Theatre across the street. Extras include a music policy that refuses to play anything other than 1970s soft rock and a small screen for showing big sporting events. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PBW
Underhill E-2, Slobode bb, tel. +382 68 41 31 21.
Quirkily playing with the literal translation of the citys name, Underhill is a spacious double-level bar decorated with large black and white posters, and with a balcony for comfortable peoplewatching. The atmosphere is relaxed - until one of the regular live music acts starts up. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. PAEB
nigHtliFe
Pubs
Four Leprechauns E-2, Hercegovaka 71, tel. +382 67
54 52 95/+382 69 49 82 97. The only pub in the city and perhaps the whole country to proudly serve Guinness on tap (at Western prices), this Irish Pub also has plenty of whiskeys available in bottles as well as all the prerequisite scruffy Irish paraphernalia clinging to the walls. Expats can also often be found clinging to the bar, and its a good place to hear foreign accents. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PAE
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Od svitanja do sumraka E-2, Njegoeva 58, tel. +382 68 80 28 88. An unassuming bar moonlighting as a raucous nightclub on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, the From dusk till dawn is packed with locals and foreigners alike from morning till a little past midnight. If your ears need a break from the turbo folk music so ubiquitous at Podgoricas other clubs, stake out a spot here and enjoy the (somewhat) more subdued tunes on offer. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. Porto D-1, Stanka Dragojevia 34, tel. +382 67 33 08 88. The classic Podgorica club featuring cramped and sweaty conditions for vertical drinking amidst rampant, ear-bursting local DJs. If this isnt torture enough, squeeze your way up the rickety stairs and see if you can find any air to breathe in the small attic space over the bar. Often devastatingly hot and loud. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. PE Riter E-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevia 23, tel. +382 67 88 67
88, riterclub@yahoo.com. Down an alley and down some stairs, this small, medieval-themed knight club has booth seating with upholstered green seats and shields on the wall. If the crowd wont make your day, the cheerful bar staff certainly will. Q Open Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00-03:00. PE 68 80 70 40. A bar and club set on the quiet back streets of the Nova Varo neighbourhood, Stara Podgorica provides young patrons rowdy entertainment until the wee hours of the morning. The club also serves as a music venue, featuring live Balkan pop stars about twice a month. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. E
53. Podgoricas Scottish pub is set at the end of the main pedestrian street, just at the point where the pretty boys and girls turn around for another run. Inside, the tartan-clad interior has a Latin slogan saying In vain does a man possess property if he makes no use of it. The bar has impressive collection of 60 whiskeys (10-40 years old), some 20 varieties of cognac as well as 15 beers, several on tap. For something special, ask the bartender for a whiskey cocktail. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PAEB
Highland D-2, Hercegovaka 3, tel. +382 67 38 30
Irish Pub Saint Patrick E-2, Slobode 73, tel. +382 69 78 08 88/+382 67 40 32 63, lumaka@t-com.me, www.prviirskipab.me. Proudly established in 1997, the countrys first Irish Pub is Irish in name only when they run out of Guinness and Kilkenny. The locals dont really care, and are happy to drink Danish lager instead, filling the small place up on rowdy weekend nights regardless. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PAEBW
Stara Podgorica E-3, Omladinskih brigada 3, tel. +382
Clubs
Admission to Podgoricas modest clubs is usually free. A charge of 5-10 may apply on nights when bands or bigname DJs play.
The Market E-2, Trg Republike bb, tel. +382 69 59 77 72,
Cruiser E-4, Bratstva i jedinstva 85 (Mall of Montenegro), tel. +382 69 02 50 28. Podgoricas newest club simply consists of a large blue space with padded creme-coloured seating along the walls, fleur-de-lis logos, and tables to stand at. The partygoers cram in three nights a week to hear foreign hits played until midnight, followed by raucous Balkan style partying. There are regular performances by local artists too. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. AE Green Garden D-2, Stanka Dragojevia 26a, tel. +382 68 55 50 20, green.garden.pg@gmail.com. We play whatever people want us to play, says the owner of Green Garden, and that means they mainly play loud, fast turbo folk, all night long. The energy in the club gets really infectious, especially on a Saturday night, when the place is packed - and you can party till you drop. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. PE Insomnia D-2, Stanka Dragojevia 26, tel. +382 69 63 21 00. Another typical Podgorica night club - small and often packed to its 150-person capacity. Techno music runs until 23:00, after that the tune changes to home-made pop, folk and whatever else the crowd wants to hear. DJs from the area are regular guests, welcomed by ecstatic hand waving. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. PE Mint Club 19 Decembra 5 (City Stadium), tel. +382 68 65 65 65/+382 20 66 48 48, sonic@t-com.me. By day a nice restaurant, by night a wild party place with a lot of room to dance and have fun. This club can comfortably fit 600 people, which makes it one of the largest night clubs in Podgorica. Mint plays mostly top hits, though they regularly have live shows with Balkan stars and DJs that really get the locals in a frenzy. Q Open Thu-Sat 22:00-03:00. PE www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
www.the-market.me. Mainstream and techno music lovers are catered to until midnight, after which the place goes mental with famous Montenegrin and Serbian tunes blasting from the speakers. Make sure to book by Wednesday if you want to sit on Friday. QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. PAE
Wonderful modern residential architecture
Richard Hill
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Velvet D-2, Bokeka 24, tel. +382 69 88 48 84. When
it comes to quality clubs in Podgorica, size clearly does not matter. This most sleek of local clubs is a real looker, with a gleaming white interior and a central bar island. But its the guests that are the real lookers - dress to impress here. Q Open Thu-Sat 19:00-03:00. P
Cetinje & Mount Loven
And1 A-2, Moskovska bb, tel. +382 20 23 44 22/+382 69 88 45 55, vujacompany@t-com.me. Podgoricas best sports caf, owned by a pro basketball player, is a pavilion set at the edge of the new part of town, in a sliver of park shaded by fragrant pines. The large and bright interior has plenty of screens for watching a wide variety of sports, while eating an even wider variety of snacks, sandwiches, salads and main courses. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (8-15). PABW Bilijar Club E-1, Vaka urovia bb, tel. + 382 20 66
55 80. Set in the outer wall of the football stadium, this bar has five pool tables where you can knock balls away at 4.80 an hour, as well as plenty of screens to watch sports matches around the world. Its set amidst a clutch of sports bars populated 24/7 by muscled, dodgy-looking characters. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PAB
Sports bars
The view from Mount Loven
Sco
Hidromoland E-1, Vaka urovia bb, tel. +382 20 66 44 10/+382 67 25 07 36, bowling@hidromoland.me, www. hidromoland.me. Hands-down the most convenient locale for beer, bowling, billiards plus spa treatment. At the northern end of the stadium, Hidromoland has a full service restaurant, spa and fitness center, four bowling lanes, and some pool tables and darts. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. A
Crna Gora Casino E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2 (Crna Gora hotel), tel. +382 20 63 48 23. Make your way up the carpeted staircase past the No guns sign and find a small, classy room with astonishing chandeliers, small bar, and ample opportunities to lose your shirt over a few games of black jack, roulette and poker. Free entrance for hotel guests. Q Open 24hrs.
Casinos
Wine bars
88. The decanter is a popular wine bar on the main square with about 80 wines in stock from across the Balkan region and the world. Good for a quick sip in between shopping or business, many of the wines are available by the glass, accompanied by snacks. We were served a delicious red 2007 Zenta, from near Podgorica. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PAB
Bocun D/E-2, Trg Republike 27, tel. +382 67 918 81
Vinoteka B-1, Vasa Raikovia bb, tel. +382 68 00 07 77, restoranvinoteka@hotmail.com. More than 200 wines are available from the cellar of this pleasant traditional restaurant, served with snacks such as prosciutto, cheese and figs, or with one of the many grilled meat, fish or vegetarian dishes. Outside theres a shaded terrace beneath the pine trees, indoors high tables and chairs are good for informal wine-tasting sessions. Next door to Leonardo. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00. PAB
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High up in the mountains, 30 kilometres west of Podgorica, Cetinje (www.cetinje.me) was Montenegros capital city from the 15th century until 1946. Its an important cultural, religious and historical centre for Montenegrins and even though it never had more than a few thousand inhabitants throughout its chequered past, Cetinje is still regarded as the countrys true capital by many. In the 19th century the town boomed and many impressive embassy buildings were erected along with palaces. Some national institutes such as the presidents palace and the national library are still located here, its very much a backwater, with the real decisions being made downhill in Podgorica. Nowadays, Cetinje has a calm spa resort feeling to it, with fresh mountain air and people strolling aimlessly all over the place, eating pizza and ice cream or buying tourist tat from the stands on the main square. Cetinje lives in the past, and theres a multitude of museums to visit grouped around the main square. All are open 09:00-17:00 except on Mondays and admission costs 3-5. The National museum (Dravni Muzej) inside King Nicholas palace can only be visited on guided tours, but its worth the effort as it has beautiful period rooms from 1867, filled with paintings and ferocious-looking swords. The Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej), set in the former Serbian embassy, is a good place to learn about Montenegros colourful traditional clothing and the development of national art. The large History Museum (Istorijski Muzej) is a rambling complex of rooms with exhibits including Turkish flags and old weapons, while the Art Museum (Umjetniki Muzej) has a good collection of icons and modern art. Finally, the Cetinje Monastery Museum (Manastirska Riznica) has valuable items from the treasury on show. Cetinje is the gateway to the Loven National Park (Nacionalni Park Loven, admission 1 in summer, mausoleum 2), the 62 square kilometres of stunning mountain scenery area that forms the backdrop of the Bay of Kotor. Its a short drive from town to the park entrance, and as you wind your way uphill you pass weird rock formations, forests and meadows. Theres good hiking here, though most visitors continue to make the steep ascent to the mountains Jezerskom Vrhu (Lake Peak, 1,660m), 21km from Cetinje. This barren mountaintop not only offers fantastic views of much of Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor, it also is where Petar II Petrovi Njego Mausoleum (Njegoev Mauzolej) stands and where Montenegrins come to pay respect to the great statesman and poet. The 1974 building and the viewpoint are reached up a long flight of stairs tunnelled into the mountainside.
wHat to see
People will tell you that Podgorica is Europes most boring capital. That it has no museums, churches or sights of note. They are all wrong. The wonderfully situated Banja bathhouse and the wacky concrete Catholic church are worth the trip alone.
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Antiquities
Doclea (Duklja) Rogami bb, 4km north of Podgorica,
tel. +382 20 24 26 05. The city of Doclea, also know as Duklja or Diokletija, is Montenegros foremost ancient site. Founded in the 1st century AD, the city was built on a plateau near the confluence of the Zeta and Moraca rivers and had a forum, temples, basilica, thermal pools and a necropolis. Becoming the provincial capital around 300AD and housing some 40,000 people, it lost power after the 4th century invasions and was eventually ravaged by a lethal combination of Goths, Slavs and earthquakes. A low wall, medieval defence towers, a partially uncovered road and some other scattered remnants are visible today. Its possible to walk to Doclea by following the east bank of the river north from the City Stadium and crossing the railway bridge.
Podgoricas most elegant building, the pretty white Petrovi Palace that formerly belonged to King Nikola, is home to the modern art collection of the city museum. The museum features a lot of African and Asian paintings and sculptures, but also has rooms with Montenegrin 20th century art with works by Risto Stijovi, Milo Milunovi, Filo Filipovi and others. If theyre not on display, ask to be shown the collection of gifts made to Tito by presidents and dictators including Gaddafi and Sadam Hussein. Find the palace up the stairs in the lush park behind the US embassy. QOpen 07:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. D-3, Trg Vojvode Beir Bega Osmanagia 16, tel. +382 20 63 31 84/+382 20 62 35 44, prmuzej@t-com.me, www.pmcg.co.me. A biologers dream, this museum houses all knowledge there is about algae, plants and animals in Montenegro. The small exhibition room often hosts temporary shows on things like pelicans. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. E-3, Marka Miljanova 4, tel. +382 20 24 25 43. The citys main museum has a good collection of archaeological, religious icons, books and other historical objects. Especially the elegant Copper age, Illirian and Roman items from nearby ancient Doclea are worth looking up. A special section is dedicated to Boidar Vukovi, a very productive 16th century printer. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Modern Art Gallery (Centar Savremene Umjetnosti) B-3, Ljubljanska, tel. +382 20 24 35 13.
Museums & Galleries
Natural History Museum (Prirodnjaki Muzej)
Bridges
Millennium Bridge (Most Milenijum) C/D-1, Bul.
Ivana Crnojevia. Ironically finished five years after the new millennium, this 140 metre-long cable-stayed bridge has become Podgoricas landmark structure (for lack of better). The eye-catching bridge has a 57-metre high pylon which holds 36 elegantly splayed cables. The landscaped area has benches and is lit up very nicely at night.
Podgorica Museum (Muzeji i Galerije Podgorice)
Churches
Cathedral of the Resurrection (Saborni Hram Hristovog Vaskr senja) A/B-1, Bul. Dor da
Vaing tona bb, tel. +382 20 22 50 30, info@sabornihram.org, w w w.sabornihram.org. The massive new Orthodox cathedral, under construction in the Novi Grad area for several years now, is almost finished. The exterior is an intriguing mix of rough stone at bottom of the building and polished stone with elaborate carvings further up. Inside, the crypt and dome paintings are quite stunning, and can be viewed.
Ottoman Podgorica
Wars and time have left little to remind you of the Ottomans five-century domination of Podgorica and the surrounding region. The beautiful arched Vezirov Most bridge spanning the Moraa was blown up by the retreating Germans in 1944.
Clock Tower (Sahat Kula) D-3, Trg Vojvode Beira
Church of the Holy Heart of Jesus (Crkva Presvetog Srca Isusovog) K-2, Zagrebaka 3, tel. +382
20 60 72 30/+382 20 62 82 10, www.donbosko.si/ podgorica. In a suburb east of the centre, Podgoricas Catholic church is an amazing work of modern architecture. Replacing the city centre church that was destroyed in the war, the bold and brutal concrete building was built in 1969 to look like a ship. The facade was never finished, so it looks a bit like a disused factory. From the dark interior, an ingenious 25-metre high tower sticks up, filtering light to illuminate the main altar. Theres a 40-metre high freestanding bell tower too, as well as smashing concrete spiral staircases.
Osmanagia. Every Ottoman-ruled town had a clock tower to indicate the Muslim prayer times, and Podgoricas 18th century tower is one of the few remaining structures from the time. The tall stone tower hasnt actually got a clock, but that doesnt seem to bother anyone. The tower isnt open for visitors.
Old town (Stara varo) D-3, . A warren of quiet residential streets between the Moraa river and Kralja Nikole is all that remains of Podgoricas old town. Wandering around here, youll come across the small Osmanagii and Glavatovii mosques, some old residential houses and the Clock Tower. Ribnica Bridge (Most na Ribnici) D-2, Stara
Varo. A cute 15th century Ottoman arched bridge spans the Ribnica river near the confluence with the Moraa. Best reached via the steps going down near the Blaa Jovanovia bridge.
19 Decembra. Podgoricas oldest and prettiest church is placed between fragrant trees at the foot of Gorica hill. Inside the simple structure, the dark 16th century nave is adorned with 19th century icons and frescoes. The front room has a small shop where religious trinkets, magnetic icons and candles are sold. For some spookytime, walk into the overgrown derelict cemetery directly behind the church - the sadly vandalised crypts allow you to peek inside graves.
St. Georges Church (Crkva Svetog ora) E-1,
Ribnica Fortress (Tvrava na Ribnici) D-3, Stara varo. Erected at the confluence of the Ribnica and Moraa rivers by the Turks when they invaded in 1474, Ribnica Fortress was once a massive castle. Nowadays, all that remains are some rubbish-strewn fields and the crumbling tower walls on the cliff overlooking the two rivers. Winter - Spring 2012
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wHat to see
Turkish Bathhouse (Tursko Kupatilo) E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25. The old Turkish bath complex, Podgoricas largest remaining historical building, can be found hidden in the Ribnica river gorge east of the centre. It was unfortunately decapitated by city planners who apparently insisted on building a bridge following the grid structure of the city, even if it meant ruining this building. Roofless, it is now stuck underneath the Novi Most bridge, and has been transformed into a rather wonderful cultural centre. Nothing remains of the original interior.
air nevertheless, this forested hill overlooks the city centre and can be reached by the road leading past the City Stadium. The Partizan monument is reached after a few minutes, and from there various paths loop up the hillside, offering views over town between the trees.
Ivana Milutinovia Park D-3, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog.
Parks
Walk or drive through Podgorica and you cant help but notice how green the city is. There are small parks and flower beds between suburban buildings, a tradition started during the post-war rebuilding of the city. From 1951 to 1954 a large-scale campaign to plant trees in the suburbs was carried out, with mainly cypress and Aleppo pines planted which could thrive in Podgoricas poor, stony soil and long dry summers.
Split in two parts south of the city centre along Bulevar Svetog Petra Cetinjskog, the small 1.26ha Milutinovia park was designed in 1953. Its always busy with pedestrians and traffic flowing between the centre and the Stara Varo and station districts, and is home to the statue of King Nikola. centre grid, beside the Crna Gora hotel, was laid out in 1927 and reconstructed after wartime damage in 1954. The most varied of the citys parks, it has a wide variety of flowering plants, pine trees and conifers.
Karaorev Park E-3. The greenest corner of the city
Gorica Forest Park (Park uma Gorica) E/F-1. Not a park but a good place to stroll and sniff up the pine-scented
Njegoev Park D-2. One of the first landscaped green areas in Podgorica, this park between the city centre and the river was opened in 1925. The Second World War thoroughly ploughed it up, but it was reinstated in original form in 1951.
Monuments & Memorials

Bird of Peace (Ptica Mira) D-1, Serdara Jola Piletia. Petar II Petrovi Njego Monument (Spomenik The extraordinary Bird of Peace statue outside the Palada Petru II Petroviu Njegou) D-2, Stanka Dragojevia.
shopping centre is made from old guns, as are the seats around the statue. Unveiled in 2005, this is the result of the Weapons in Art initiative by the government in collaboration with UNDP . The sculpture is made of 500 weapons that were voluntarily handed in by the local population after the 1990s Balkan wars during the successful Respect life - give back weapons campaign. Artists from Montenegro, Serbia, Macedonia and Bosnia Herzegovina collaborated on the artworks. The grand-looking figure sculpted in a seated position with a pensive look and a book in his hand is Petar II Petrovi Njego, the bishop, ruler, writer and philosopher. Located in the park that bears his name, it was made by Sreten Stojanovi in 1954 and depicts the national hero in traditional Montenegrin ceremonial costume.
Karaore Petrovi Monument E-3, Karaorev Park. The 3.5 metre high bronze monument for Karaore Petrovi (1768-1817), depicts the famed general and politician with a sword. Hes best known as a national leader of the First Serbian uprising against the Ottomans in 1804. The statue was made by sculptor Sreten Stojanovi in the 1960s and stands in the Karaorev Park named after him, beside the Crna Gora hotel.
Cetinjskog. King Nikola (1841-1921) was the last king of Montenegro, a general, politician and poet. His impressive fourmetre high statue, made by Risto Radmilovi and situated in the park opposite Parliament, was unveiled in 2005 and shows Nikola seated on a horse on a red granite pedestal.
1830), later known as Saint Petar Cetinjski was the bishop and founder of modern Montenegrin state. His three tonne, 6.8-metre-high statue in the Novi Grad district was sculpted by Nenad oki and unveiled in 2006, and shows the saint in his modest bishops gown. rial to the Innocent Victims of the Bombing of Podgorica in
St Petar Cetinjski Monument (Spomenik Svetom Petru Cetinjskom) A-2. Petar I Petrovi Njego (1747-
The Bomb (Bomba) E-2, Miljana Vukova. The Memo-
King Nikola Petrovi Monument D-3, Bul. Sv. Petra World War I and II, known locally simply as The Bomb,
was placed in the open courtyard of this building in 1994, and commemorates the 4,100 citizens killed during the 70 Allied bombing raids between 1943 and 1945, as well as the local casualties of the First World War. Architect Basil Kneevi designed the monument, consisting of a triangular steel support holding up a large black bomb, with a bronze Partizan Memorial (Spomenik Partizanu borcu) plaque. E-1, Gorica Hill Park. Podgoricas most impressive memorial is this gleaming white mausoleum flanked by fierce-looking Vladimir Vysotsky Monument (Spomenik Partizan fighters on Gorica Hill. Built by architect Vojislav oki Vladimiru Visockom) C-1, Jovana Tomaevia. A and sculptor Dragan urovic after a suggestion in 1953 by the wacky statue on the western side of the Moskovski pedesRepublican Alliance of Fighters, the grave and monument to trian bridge commemorates this Russian poet, signer and national heroes was finished in 1957, when the mortal remains actor. From the 1960s until his mysterious death in 1980, of the Partizans were laid to rest in the crypt. Above the crypt he wrote over 700 songs, many of which were translated stands a grey marble slab with Partizanu Borcu in golden letters, into the Slavic languages of the other Eastern European with the incription They loved freedom more than life above countries. The hidden political satire in the lyrics made his it. The columns on either side have text reading In the war of songs all the more appealing. He toured through Yugoslavia national liberation from 1941-1945, 6,780 fighters from Mon- and various other countries. His statue in Podgorica shows tenegro fell, and 7,479 sons and daughters of Montenegrin him barefoot and barechested, clutching his guitar, and surpeople were killed by fascist occupiers and domestic traitors, rounded by a mirror frame and a skull, reminding of his last followed by the names of the national heroes. part in Hamlet, a few days before his death.
ostrog Monastery
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cave-chapel, which was constructed in 1774, contains the wrapped bones of St Basil. If you are seeking intercession, this is the place to be. To enter you should be appropriately dressed: covered shoulders and trousers or jeans for men, and covered shoulders and legs for women. To get to Ostrog Monastery, take the Podgorica Niki highway 20km north until you reach the clearly marked turnoff for Ostrog (if taking the Podgorica Niki bus, asked to be dropped off here and then take a readily available taxi to the top). From the highway turnoff you will ascend a part asphalt, part dirt road that winds along the cliff sides for a rather slow-going and treacherous 8km. There are also many tourist buses that organize trips to the monastery from the coast and Podgorica. Eating options are few, but surprisingly good. In the town of Bogetii near the bottom of the mountain, Kolibe (tel. +382 67 88 81 89, www.kolibe.me) serves tasty Montenegrin dishes in a scenic restaurant overlooking the valley; accommodation is available too. In the immediate area of the monastery, hemmed in between shops selling religious nicknacks, Kafe Restoran Sv Petka Ostrog has traditional food, salads, and burgers while Restoran Tvrdo offers diners a pleasant outdoor seating area and grilled dishes. If you fancy staying the night in Ostrog proper, the monastery has clean, singlesex dorm beds (tel. +382 20 81 11 33).
QThe monastery is open daily (May Sep 06:00 - 17:00 and Oct Apr 05:00 16:00) and admission is free. During the winter months, many of the shops and restaurants around the monastery are closed.
The famous Upper Monastery at Ostrog Dmitry Kruglikov Set within sheer vertical rock overlooking the Zeta Valley, Ostrog Monastery offers striking views for visitors and a sacred experience for pilgrims. The monastery, founded by Metropolitan St Basil (Vladika Sv Vasilije) of Hercegovina in the 17th century, is the most visited Orthodox Christian site in Montenegro, and just 45 minutes from Podgorica. The Ostrog Monastery complex consists of the Lower Monastery (Donji manastir) and the Upper Monastery (Gornji manastir). The main draw of the Lower Monastery is the Holy Trinity Church (Crkva Sv Trojice), which dates from 1824. Its delightfully colourful, with vivid wall paintings covering every inch of the interior and a beautiful and equally colourful iconostasis. For the pious (and fit), a very steep 2km footpath up to the main destination, the Upper Monastery, is de rigueur. However, for tourists with wheels theres a nicely paved road that leads to an upper car park. Along the way up you will come to the Church of St Stanko the Martyr (Crkva Sv Muenika Stanka). Built in 2004, this stone church contains both the relics of St Stanko and the remains of 27 WWII Yugoslav soldiers. The pearl of the entire complex is the Upper Monastery. Constructed in two caves, the Upper Monastery is striking from the outside, as this white man-made structure seems to be nestled flawlessly within the vertical rock face. The interior contains a number of aesthetic and religious pleasantries too, including a smattering of colourful tile icons and a cave-chapel (Church of the Holy Cross; 1665) painted with scenes from the New Testament. The other
Ostrogs Lower Monastery
Dmitry Kruglikov
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abljak
abljaks fields in spring Neither a village nor a city, abljak is a charming small town situated beneath mount Durmitor, in the national park of the same name. At an altitude of 1450 meters, its the highest urban centre in Montenegro and the Balkans. The locals are true highlanders, shaped by the rough surroundings and cruel winters, yet proud of their warm hospitality, which visitors encounter in the regions hotels, guesthouses and restaurants. Offering some of Montenegros best skiing in winter, hiking in summer and relaxation at any time, its an excellent year-round destination. abljak is 130km north of Podgorica, and can be reached in under three hours via either Niki or the E80 and Platije gorge. abljak town offers visitors charming narrow streets, atmospheric small bars and both rustic and modern hotels. The town is surrounded amazing natural beauty; mountain peaks of the Durmitor National Park, glacial lakes and the magnificent Tara River canyon, at 1,300 meters the deepest in Europe.
Where to stay
Tourists visit abljak all year round, and theres a good range of accommodation in town and in the immediate surroundings.
Upmarket
Polar Star Apart Hotel Borje bb, tel. +382 67 60 94
44, fax +382 20 22 46 55, begovic.igor@polarstar.me, www.polarstar.me. Surrounded by greenery in a village 4km out of town on the road to Pljevlja, the Polar Star is a large triangular building, and a good base for adventures in the surrounding mountains. The deluxe rooms, suites, and stand-alone villas are modern but constructed with the traditional elements of wood and flagstones; the ground floor features a cosy restaurant. Q 28 rooms (singles 55-95, doubles 30-40, 12 apartments 35-60, 8 villas 110-180). HALKDW
Arriving
abljaks bus station can be found right in the town centre beside the petrol station, where taxis can be found. There are no buses to the ski resorts, but most hotels arrange transport; otherwise, a taxi ride to Savin Kuk costs 4-5.
Tourist information
abljak Tourist Office (Turistika Organizacija abljak) Trg Durmitorskih ratnika bb,
tel. +382 52 36 18 02, durmitor1@t-com.me, www. montenegro-mountains.com. Information, maps and brochures about abljak and its wide surroundings. Q Open 08:00-20:00, Jan-Apr 08:00-21:00, Jun-Sept 07:00-22:00.
Ski Hotel Narodnih heroja bb, tel. +382 52 36 10 28, fax +382 52 36 10 88, skihotel@t-com.me, www. skihotelzabljak.com. Just 500m from central abljak, the Ski is surrounded by hills and pine trees and is dedicated to people who enjoy active holidays. The hotel has luxurious twin rooms and suites, and is the only one with a swimming pool. A sauna, restaurant and ski room round off the offer. Q 17 rooms (7 doubles 70-80, 1 triple 120, 9 apartments 100-200). AFLKDCW
52, fax +382 52 36 01 11, info@hotelsoa.com, www. hotelsoa.com. Near the Crno Jezero lake, the new and luxurious Soa hotel is surrounded by nature. Rooms and furnishings are modern and minimalist, yet cozy. The spectacular lounge bar has a glass wall offering amazing views over to the mountains. One of the best places to stay in the region. Q 18 rooms (singles 55-75, 8 doubles 75-90, 10 suites 90-200). HALGKW
Soa Nacionalni park Durmitor bb, tel. +382 69 15 11
abljak abljak
The Bridge over the Tara
The spectacular urevia bridge spanning a deep section of the Tara river gorge is a popular stop for drivers in this part of Montenegro, and for many visitors its the only place to get a good overview of the gorge without having to raft or hike. Built in 1940 it has five wide arches, the main span 136 metres long and about 140 metres above the river; Europes largest concrete bridge at the time. The main arch was dynamited by partizans in 1942, and rebuilt immediately after the war. 18, fax +382 52 36 11 20, hotelgorskeoci@t-com.me. The Mountain Eyes is a new hotel with good facilities, also for the disabled. Its in a central yet quiet location, and has beautiful mountain views. Guests can make use of the gym, billiards room, bar and order a massage. Q1 single 38, 24 doubles 34, apartments 77. HAFLKW
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Gorske oi Boidara ugia bb, tel. +382 52 36 11
Javor Boidara ugia 8, tel. +382 52 36 13 37,

vladoprof@hotmail.com, www.durmitor.in. The maple in central abljak is a villa-syle hotel with simple, modern rooms. Its well-known for its eco restaurant that serves only organic, local food such as gruel, buckwheat pie, goat and cow milk, cheese, ham, trout, and mushrooms. Javor can arrange all possible sport activities in the area as well. Q 9 rooms (30-32 per person). ALKW
Mid-range
Bjelobor Cmajevci bb, tel./fax +382 52 36 16 35,
bjelobor@t-com.me, www.bjelobor.com. At the edge of town, Bjelobor has decent rooms in a great natural setting and a restaurant which prides itself for the local organic cuisine. Sports activities, picnic baskets and ski rental can all be organised. Across the road the hotel has additional accommodation at the Zlatni Bor and the lakeside Zelenbor villa. Q ALK
Wintertime in abljak
Bokovi brvnare Motiki gaj bb, tel. +382 69 54 17 28, info@boskovicabrvnare.com, www.boskovicabrvnare.com. This complex of charming wooden cottages is 2km from central abljak. Each cottage has a terrace and balcony, a ground floor living room with kitchen and dining room, and a bedroom and bathroom upstairs. Modern facilities include hydro massage showers, satellite TV, DVD players and washing machines. Q (Cottages 65-120). Enigma abljak bb, tel./fax +382 52 36 01 30,
hotelenigma@t-com.me, www.hotelenigma.me. The family-owned Enigma has cosy rooms, all with balconies, and a new cottage-style traditional restaurant called edovina, or patrimony, where you can dine by the fireplace. Skiers can count on transport to the slopes in winter, while the young at heart can always have fun in the night club. Q 10 doubles, 5 triples, 3 apartments; 18-23 per person. ALKW
Skiing at Savin Kuk With 120 days with snow on the ground between December and March, abljak is Montenegros top winter resort, offering great skiing and snowboarding. Recently it has also become a centre for kiteboarding; join lessons run by the Slovenian Sport Society Kitesfer. The three main ski slopes are Savin Kuk (3500m long), tuoc (2600m) and Javorovaa (800m). There are also cross country ski tracks of up to 12 kilometres long. Most hotels in abljak can organise transport to and from the resorts. The Savin Kuk Ski Centre (tel. +382 52 36 65 80) has two double seat cable cars, three ski lifts and a baby lift, ski lessons, rental and servicing. In season its open from 10:00-16:00 and ski passes cost 15 per day, 80 per week, with night skiing priced at 7 and ski rental at 10. The resort is 4km south of town, a 4-5 taxi ride. Javorovaa Ski Centre (tel. +382 67 80 09 71, vzsport@tcom.me) has one ski and baby lift, ski lessons, rental and servicing, and a quality restaurant. It opens from 09:0016:00, and ski passes are 8 per day, 5 for children, with ski rental 10 for adults and 7 for children. Sledges are rented out at 5. Its just 600 metres south of town. Vuje Ski Centre (tel. +382 67 31 97 19, www.vucje.me) lies within neighbouring Niki municipality but at just 55 kilometres south of abljak is close enough to make it an easy daytrip. The small ski centre has about 2,000 metres of well-maintained ski slopes, one long ski lift, plenty of space for beginners and a restaurant. Ski passes cost 10/5; ski rent is 15 and theres free parking.
Winter landscape
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abljak
MB Tripka Dakovia bb, tel. +382 52 36 16 01, info@
mbhotel-mn.com, www.mbhotel-mn.com. In the center of abljak, this family-owned hotel is fitted out with 16 comfortable rooms in warm wood colours. The pleasant hotel restaurant has a wide variety of national and international dishes, and even some vegetarian choices. Guests can relax in the entertainment room or in the wine cellar, and can arrange things like ski rental, car rental and daytrips at the reception. Q 16 rooms (28 per person). ALKW fax +382 52 36 13 44, primorjesales@t-com.me, www. primorje.co.me. A golden oldie in central abljak, the lumpylooking Planinka was recently partly renovated and now has good double rooms with plenty of wood and balconies with mountain views. Its well set up for skiers, with beginners slopes adjacent to the hotel, ski rental and transport to the resorts. In summer its convenient for hiking trails, and rents out mountain bikes. Q 143 rooms (singles 30-43, doubles 27-38, triples 22-33). HALKW
Planinka Narodnih heroja bb, tel. +382 52 36 13 04,
Hiking in abljak
In summer theres ample choice of activities in abljak. Crno Jezero lake is the starting point of several marked tracks leading to beautiful natural wonders. Follow the path by the mill stream to reach Zminje Jezero (Serpent Lake) in around 90 minutes; or head along other trails to a series of alpine lakes: Vraje, Riblje, Modro, Veliko i Malo krko Lake, Zminiko, Barno, or Zabojsko. The Durmitor massif between the Tara, Piva and Komarnica canyons and mount Sinjajevina is the highlight of Montenegro. A popular activity is rafting down the Tara river through the massive canyon, others make use of the big difference in height (2,090m) between the canyons carved into the Durmitor plateau and the surrounding mountain peaks to hike and climb. Fit visitors with basic gear can hike up to the top of Montenegros highest peak, Bobotov Kuk at 2,523 metres, in 5-6 hours. This route offers magnificent views over to Suva Lokva and Zeleni Vir lakes. Also worth a visit is the Ice Cave, a wonder of nature with its stalactites and stalagmites, cool air and cold mountain water.
Skiing near abljak
abljak Trg Durmitorskih ratnika 1, tel. +382 52 36 02 44, fax +382 52 36 02 07, hmdurmitor@hotmail.com. The old two-star state hotel offers glimpses of the Jugoslav era with its unmodernised rooms and restaurant. On the plus side, its central and the large terrace is the most beautiful in town, and the restaurant is well worth a visit for its Montenegrin cuisine. Q 22 rooms (singles, doubles, triples, quads 18-34 per person, 1 suite 45-65). A
Family Apartments abljak bb, tel. +382 68 17 17 17/+382 69 01 73 76, cano@t-com.me, www.familyapartmani.me. Modern furnished self-catering apartments with separate living rooms, bedrooms and en suite kitchens, all stylishly done up in the local wood-and-stone combination. Less than a minute from the bus station, its as central as it gets, yet all rooms have lovely views towards the hills. Q 8 rooms (80). L
Apartments
Where to eat
Montenegros mountain cuisine is amazingly delicious. Try local traditional food such as skorup (fresh salted cream), mladi sir (a kind of cottage cheese), lamb or ram under the coals or cooked in milk, prosciutto from the Njegui region, kastradina (smoked sheep meat), priganice (fritters served with honey, cheese or jam), kaamak (buttered potato and corn meal in skorup, served with cold milk, buttermilk or yoghurt), grilled water trout, or abljaks organic milk, carrying the scent of Durmitors 1,500 varieties of plants.
Crno Jezero lake
Durmitor Boidara ugia bb, tel. +382 69 63 73 16. Proudly named after the main mountain, Durmitor serves authentic local cuisine including homemade fruit juice and mountain herb tea. There are traditional dishes, including cicvara, too. QOpen 08:00 - 00:00. AB www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
Montenegrin
abljak
Javorovaa Javorovaa ski resort, tel. +382 67 80 09 71/+382 52 36 11 04, vzsport@t-com.me. A Montenegrin-style ski resort restaurant, with plenty of beams and large flagstones, Javorovaa is often packed out in season. The hungry skiers and hikers are served with good portions of honest Durmitor specialties. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. B Koliba Narodnih heroja 3, tel. +382 52 36 65 99/+382 68 32 39 39, sreckoloncar@gmail.com. A simple restaurant on the southwestern slopes of Durmitor, below Savin Kuk peak. A good place to rest and have a hot tea or brandy after skiing. Koliba also serves a good variety of national dishes. ALB abljak Trg Durmitorskih ratnika 1, tel. +382 52 36 02 44. There are better places to spend the night, but the abljak hotels traditional restaurant is well worth a visit. Theres Durmitor food galore; cicvara pies, cakes, sheep milk, cream, cheese, Durmitor ham, trout and more. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. LB
31
Durmitor National Park

Durmitor National Park (+382 52 36 02 28, npdurmitor@tcom.me, www.nparkovi.me; admission 2) consists of seven protected areas and is listed as UNESCO Cultural and Natural Heritage. A national park since 1952, it covers some 39,000 hectares and has 48 mountain peaks above 2,000 meters, 18 glacial lakes and the magnificent 80-kilometre long Tara River canyon, the deepest in Europe at 1,400 meters. The park can be entered from abljak via the gate at Crno Jezero, just a kilometre from town. The admission fee includes access to a small visitor centre.
udna uma Vuka Karadia 3, tel. +382 69 88 88 28. The strange forest caf reminds visitors of a gnarled old tree, with strange wooden shapes all around. Its been around for a long time yet still attracts a good crowd for the good coffee and the latest news on whats on in town. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. A
Cafs
After the snow melts
Oro Savin kuk bb, tel. +382 69 26 18 61. Wood dominates at this caf/bar in the Savin Kuk ski resort. A fine place for taking a break and a drink between hitting the slopes. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00; 22:00-03:00. A Stara varo Narodnih heroja bb, tel. +382 69 44 30 40. The old town caf has been around for decades, and is great for a morning coffee or a quick stiff drink. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. AB
The mountains in winter
Nevidio Canyon
In the southern reaches of the Durmitor mountains, the Nevidio Canyon is a spectacular narrow gorge carved out by the Komarnica river. It is famous for being very difficult to access; several expeditions in the 1950s and 1960s failed to penetrate the gorge, only in 1965 did a team manage to explore the full length of the canyon. The three-kilometre gorge is just one metre wide at some points, and large parts of it never see sunlight. There are professional guided tours to the end of the canyon and back again in summer when the water levels are low, using wetsuits and helmets; contact tel.+382 69 04 12 13, nevidio@t-com.me, or see www.nevidio-canyoning. com for information.
Zlatni papagaj Vuka Karadia 1, tel. +382 52 26 12 59. The golden parrot is named after a classic local rock song, and lives up to its reputation by serving local beer and playing great rock music every night. QOpen 08:00 02:00. AB
City Javorovaa bb, tel. +382 69 88 88 28. A typical Montenegrin club, crammed with the young, the beautiful and the chainsmoking at weekend nights when DJs show up to whip up a good party. Citys main claim to fame is its shiny disco ball. Royal Klub Njegoeva 2, tel. +382 68 42 49 29. Arrive
early or dress to impress to get into Royal at weekends; its a popular place and fills up fast. Local singers, DJs, karaoke shows, promotions and the occasional go-go dancers all combine to bring the crowd to a state of frenzy. QOpen 21:00 - 02:00. AE
Clubs
32
kolain
Autumn splendour in the Biogradska Gora National Park Weaving in and out of tunnels in the wonderful Platije canyon, the road north from Podgorica delivers you in Kolain after just 70 kilometres. This calm and welcoming little town with good facilities is surrounded by magnificent mountains; theres Sinjajevina (with Jablanov peak, 2203m), Bjelasica (with Troglava at 2075m and Zekova Glava at 2116 m) and Komovi along the Biogradska Gora National Park border. Its a good place to head for activities or relaxation at any time of the year. Trg Boraca, or Soldiers Square, is the focus of town life, with a large war memorial and surrounded by boutiques, grocery shops, cafs and the tourist office.
Arriving
Buses pull in at the bus station just west of the town centre; there are buses to and from Podgorica 1-2 times per hour. The train station is on the hillside about 1km from the town centre; taxis await arrivals. The CKB Bank on Trg Borca square has an ATM.
Where to stay
As a small tourism centre, Kolain has a decent range of accommodation, ranging from the luxurious Bianca to cheap and cheerful homestays.
Tourist information
Regional Tourist Board Bjelasica and Komovi (Regionalna turistika organizacija Bjelasica i Komovi) Trg Borca 2, tel. +382 20 86 51 10, office@rtobik.co.me, www.bjelasica-komovi.co.me. Information, maps and brochures for travel, hiking, biking, and other activities in northern Montenegro. Q Open Dec-Mar & Jun-Aug 08:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-15:00; Apr-May & Sep-Nov 08:00-15:00, Sat, Sun closed.
Bianca Resort & Spa Jagoa Simanovia bb, tel. +382 20 86 30 00/+382 20 86 30 77, fax +382 20 86 31 81, reservations@biancaresort.com, www.biancaresort. com. The best hotel for miles around, the triangual Bianca with its quirky honeycomb-shaped windows dominates the town centre. The rooms look rustic and natural, and all have mountain views. There are two fine restaurants and a great indoor pool and spa centre as well. Q 122 rooms (107 doubles 72, 14 suites 320-420, presidential apartment 1300). HAFLKDCW Lipka Mojkovaka 20, tel. +382 20 86 32 00/+382 20 86 32 84, sales@hotellipka.com, www.hotellipka.com. The striking Lipka hotel in central Kolain is erected with lots of pinewood, stone and glass, and in a modern Montenegrin way this mix of old and new is quite charming. The cottagestyle rooms and suites have two-metre-long beds and classy bathrooms. With a fireplace, mountain views and great food, www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
Upmarket
Tourist Board of Kolain (Turistika organizcaija Kolain) Mirka Veovia bb, tel. +382 20 86
42 54, tokolasin@t-com.me, www.kolain.travel. A friendly office with information about the town, ski resort and national park. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00. Closed Sun.
kolain kolain
the top-floor dining room has everything you need. An excellent spa, fitness room, ski room and free ski shuttle round off the sports offer. Q 87 rooms (3 singles 93-104, 69 doubles 93, 15 suites 244-286). HAFLKDW
33
Biogradska Gora National Park

Just north of Kolain, this beautifully forested national park has benefited from protection since 1878, when as the Kings Reserve it was given to King Nikola as a present; in 1952 it was declared a national park. The valleys are dotted with glacial lakes such as Biogradsko (the largest), Ursulovako, Peia, iko and evarine, and covered in one of Europes last three surviving virgin forests, while the Crna Glava (2139m) and Zekova Glava (2117m) peaks of the Bjelasica mountain range provide a suitable stunning backdrop. The park is simply magical to walk through. Theres lush vegetation all around, sky-high trees with daylight seeping through the tree crowns,old leaves rustling underfoot. Stop at the Biogradska river spring for a healthy drink, spy for eagles and hawks, dears and wild goats, or bears and wolves. In summer 80 species of butterfly flit about. At 1094 m above sea level, in the centre of the park, beautiful Biogradsko lake offers sedate paddling in wooden rowing boats (8/hr).
Brile Buda Tomovia 2, tel./fax +382 20 86 50 21, tel. +382 69 01 52 49, hotelbrile@t-com.me, www.brile.me. This small, French-looking family hotel has been welcoming mountain and nature lovers for over two decades, comparing a visit to coming to your mountain home, only with staff. Most of the rooms have great views to the mountains, and the restaurant has good local specialties. Q 9 rooms (1 single 40, 8 doubles & suites 32). ALKDW
86 50 39, fax +382 20 86 01 01, info@hotelcile.me, www.hotelcile.me. A typical small hotel near Kolains main square, with an intimate atmosphere and affordable rates. The hotel restaurant serves traditional dishes such as the house specialty, trout stuffed with cheese and local kajmak cream. Theres free transportation to and from the bus and train stations. Q 14 rooms (11 doubles 25, 3 suites 70100). ALKW 00, tel. +382 67 42 26 95, djevojackimost@t-com.me. Rooms at the charmingly named girls bridge hotel, two kilometres north of Kolain, have views of the small Planica river. Like elsewhere, the restaurant serves traditional regional dishes. Q 11 rooms (singles 22, doubles 38), 3 suites 48. LBK
Mid-range
ile Dunje oki bb, tel. +382 69 59 69 69/+382 20
Djevojaki most Kolain bb, tel./fax +382 20 86 71
Garni Proleterske bb, tel. +382 20 86 54 84, fax +382
20 86 50 21. A small hotel in the town center with simple, decent rooms and a pleasant caf on the ground floor. Q 7 rooms (singles 15, doubles 20, triples 20).
Lake views in the national park In summer its possible to get a taste of highland life by visiting the summer pastures and cottage settlements along the forest edge, where shepherds and farmers still corral their sheep and cows, make Kolain cheese puff and cream. Biogradska is easy to reach from Kolain; the main entrance is 22km north of town, where youll find an information centre and souvenir shop. You can also spend the night at the campsite (3-5 per tent) or in a decent bungalow (with wifi, 20 per bed).
Biogradska Gora National Park Tel. +382 20

Central Kolain
86 56 25, np.biogradskagora@t-com.me, www. nparkovi.me. Admission 2.
34
kolain
Private accommodation
Private accommodation ranges from simple rooms or apartments in a locals house to complete homes. Most are self-catering, and you can expect to pay 10-40 per bed, even less in low season. 69 26 31 63. L
Dragica etkovi Milivoja Bulatovia bb, tel. +382 Lidija Rakoevi Milivoja Bulatovia 4, tel. +382 20 86
07 60/+382 67 40 14 16, ljubisa.r@t-com.me. LW
Nikola Bulatovi Junaka Breze 5a, tel. +382 20 86 03 60/+382 67 41 51 68, vila-kraljica@co.me. L Redo Tokovi Mojkovaka 8, tel. +382 20 86 02 60/+382 69 02 49 86. LW Vila Jelka Ranka i Strahinje Miloevia bb, tel. +382
20 86 01 50/+382 20 86 01 51, vilajelka@t-com.me, www.vilajelka.co.me. LKW
Skiing in Kolain
The Kolain 1450 ski resort (tel. +382 20 71 78 48, www. kolasin1450.com), just a few kilometres east of town, is great for skiers and snowboarders of all levels. It has 30 kilometres of tracks serviced by six ski lifts, among which the fast 6-seater Vilina Voda lift that whisks you to 2000 metres above sea level in under 5 minutes. Nature lovers can use the 5km of cross-country ski tracks, and snowmobile tours are also possible. Operating hours are from 09:30 to 17:00, with night skiing on some nights, and ski passes are 12/20 for a half/full day (9/13 for children) and 104 for a week. Ski kit rental is 13-19 per day. The resort has two restaurants.
The Bianca hotel
Where to eat
Local specialties to try out are the popara gruel, the sour milk and lamb.
centres restaurant, at the foot of the Bjelasica mountain, is a great place to rest after skiing or snowboarding. The usual local dishes are available here, washed down with healthy mountain herb tea, or healthy amounts of mulled red wine. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. A
Jezerine Ski centre, tel. +382 69 65 05 45. The ski
Montenegin
Konoba Trg Veljka Vlahovia bb, tel. +382 69 24 15 07. A rustic restaurant located at the end of Kolains main street, with a wooden exterior and decorated inside with antique objects once used in local households. Try the full range of local and national dishes here, including homemade wine. QOpen 08:00 - 00:00. AB Planinar Trg Boraca 3, tel. +382 20 86 44 54. A simple restaurant with welcoming staff, a varied menu of international and local specialities, and affordable prices. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. A Savardak Bioinovii bb, tel. +382 20 05 12 64, savardak@t-com.me. One of the most popular restaurants in northern Montenegro, Savardak is set in a large coneshaped building with a thatched roof and is located just east of town along the road to the ski centre. The owners, Mr and Mrs epanovi, personally welcome and serve all guests. On the menu youll find all possible traditional Montenegrin national specialties, and rumors have it that this is the place for the best kaamak and cicvara in the country. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. AUL Vodenica Junaka Breze bb, tel. +382 20 86 53 38/+382 69 52 94 37. Vodenica (the watermill) is one of Kolains must-visit places. A wooden shed of a restaurant, it is well known for well-made traditional food and reasonable prices. If the weathers good you can sit on the terrace overlooking the Svinjaa river. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AB www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
Ski lifts at Kolain 1450
kolain
Balkan Generala Anelia, tel. +382 69 28 69 09. A classic caf thats usually full of younger Montenegrins. The Balkan is fine for coffee during the day, and sometimes plays live music in the evenings. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. A LAngolo IV Proleterske bb, tel. +382 67 82 69 22. LAngolos pretty exterior facade leads to a pleasant interior where you can sit and drink coffee by day, or party at night when it turns into a club. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AB Mondrian IV Proleterske, tel. +382 68 21 87 85. One of the most popular cafs among the young locals and visitors of Kolain. Drop by during the day for a pizza or a sandwich, or visit after dark for when the place turns into a lively club with theme parties, brand promotions, local singers and DJs. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. A Mystic IV Proleterske 5, tel. +382 67 57 75 73. A small caf along the main street, amidst several other cafs. The interior is shiny and modern, with high chairs and tables. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. A SFRJ IV Proleterske 3, tel. +382 68 80 90 01. For a bit of Yugo-nostalgia, visit the caf named after the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, with its wooden interior and decorations reminding of good old motherland, including a huge flag with a red star. The SFRJ has a very friendly and relaxed atmosphere, and its easy to meet the locals over over a beer. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. AB
35
Cafs
Nightlife
Clubs
sveto@yahoo.com. The Diskoteka Sport Klub Select has been around since 1998, making it the oldest club in Kolain. Its a classic Montenegrin night club, crowded and smoky on weekend nights with a party-minded crowd, so just squeeze in and be prepared to fall in love with a stranger. QOpen 24:00 - 05:00. AE
Kolain by night
Select Trg Boraca bb, tel. +382 67 57 86 78, pekovic-
Pubs
John Mulliran Irish Pub 13 Jula bb, tel. +382 67 57

75 78. Perhaps the highest Irish pub in the Balkans, the John Mulliran is absurdly popular in Kolain. With a cosy wooden interior, a relaxed atmosphere and a good choice of international beers and whiskys makes it well worth a visit. Theres regular live music as well. QOpen 09:00 24:00. AE
Sightseeing in Kolain
Botanika bata (Botanical garden) Naselje Dulo-
vine bb, tel. +382 20 86 54 77, botanybasta@t-com.me. Local biologists Vera and Daniel Vinek run this wonderful botanical garden, which presents the varied and fragile flora from the surrounding mountain region, including medicinal plants and rare endemic species. Q Open May-Sept. stopover for travellers from Podgorica, the Moraa monastery lies 30 kilometres south of Kolain along the main road. It was built in a picturesque spot in the Moraa gorge near the pretty Svetigora waterfalls in 1252 by Stefan Nemanji, the son of king Vukan. The functioning monastery consists of the Cathedral Church Uspenje Bogorodice (Our Lady) and the smaller Church of Sveti Nikola, which is the oldest building in the complex. Damaged and even abandoned during the Ottoman occupation, the two churches were restored in the late 16th century. Relatively plain on the outside, the frescoes and icons inside are the true masterpieces of medieval painting, though only few 13th and 14th century works survived the many wars, fires and thefts. The best original fresco depicts 11 scenes from the life of the prophet Elijah.
Moraa manastir (Moraa monastery) A great
Fountains and ice
36
getting around
Public transport
The centre of Podgorica is relatively small, making walking a good option for most journeys with the occasional affordable taxi ride for longer trips. Brave visitors could also try running the gauntlet of the citys public transport system, a fleet of dilapidated albeit good value buses. Bus N6 runs from the bus and train stations to Hotel Crna Gora, the main bus hub in the city centre. Buses N4, 5, 8 and 9 run from there to the city hospital, while buses N7 and 4 run west to the Novi Grad business area. Buses N1, 7, 8 and 9 run to the market. Buses depart from their terminus every 30 minutes or so, starting at the top and bottom of the hour. Buy a ticket on board for 0.80.
Buses to Albania & Croatia

Taking a bus to Serbia or Bosnia is easy, but travelling to Croatia or Albania is slightly more complicated. To get from Podgorica to Dubrovnik at the southernmost tip of Croatia theres a direct bus departing at 06:00 three times per week, arriving at 10:45. The return service leaves Dubrovnik at 15:00. Alternatively, take any bus to Kotor or Herceg Novi and change for the Ulcinj-Budva-Dubrovnik bus, which departs from Budva at 13:30 daily, and additionally around 07:15 on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. Buses can drop you off at Dubrovnik airport along the way. Buses from Dubrovnik to Montenegro depart at 10:30, 15:00, 15:30 daily plus 20:30 on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday, passing Dubrovnik airport 20-30 minutes later. The Dubrovnik timetable can be found at www. libertasdubrovnik.com/voznired.pdf. A ticket costs 10 plus 1 for bags. Before heading north, be sure to read and download the free Dubrovnik In Your Pocket city guide and our other Croatian guides, at www.croatia. inyourpocket.com. Travellers to Albania have it less easy. There are no direct buses or trains between Podgorica and the Albanian city of Shkodra, 60 potholed kilometres to the south. A taxi can drop you off at the border for 15-20, and taxis waiting on the other side may be able to drive you to Shkodra where there are ample onward connections. Taxi companies like Red Line can drop you off in Shkodra for 35. Alternatively and cheaper, take a bus to Ulcinj and hop on the bus to Shkodra from there, departing from the messy main market square at 06:30 and 13:00 and taking three hours (bookings tel. +382 69 330482, +382 30 41 11 05). Youll find travel information about Shkodra and Tirana at www.albania.inyourpocket.com.
Long-distance buses
Bus station F-4, Trg Golootokih rtava, tel. +382

20 62 04 30/+382 20 62 12 87, intoursad@t-com. me, www.intours.me. Q Open 24hrs. Ticket office open 05:00-24:00.
Trains
20 44 12 11/+382 20 44 12 10, putnicki@zcg-prevoz. me, www.zcg-prevoz.me. Q Open 24hrs. Ticket office open from 06:00-22:00.
Train station F-4, Trg Golootokih rtava 7, tel. +382
Car rental
Car rental is affordable in Montenegro. Count on paying from 40-45 per day for a small car.
Contact A-2, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona bb, tel. +382 20 23 51 41/+382 67 45 04 50, contact.rentacar@t-com. me, www.contact-rentacar.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Ideal Bulevar Ivana Crnojevia 49, tel. +382 68 00 10 01, idealcar@t-com.me, www.idealcar.me. Meridian A-2, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona 85, tel. +382 20 23 49 44/+382 69 31 66 66, www.meridian-rentacar. com. Also has an office at Dubrovnik airport in Croatia, for easy transfers into Montenegro. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Razvrje J-3, Bracana Bracanovia 40c, tel. +382 20 64 72 22/+382 69 26 82 68, razvrsjerentacar@t-com. me, www.razvrsjerentacar.me. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Renault Podgorica airport, tel. +382 69 01 23 25/+382 20 65 30 67, www.renaultrentmne.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Rokped K-3, Josipa Broza Tita 30, tel. +382 20 44 55 55/+382 69 32 72 71, fax +382 20 44 55 32, www. roksped.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Taxis
Podgoricas taxi companies are in general refreshingly reliable at switching on their meters. Theres no flagfall charge, and all companies charge about 0.40-0.50/ km with a waiting rate of 0.10/minute. Ordering a taxi by telephone or SMS costs nothing extra, and all companies should have someone available who can speak English. A taxi to the airport should cost 5. Ordered in advance, a ride to Cetinje is 13, Budva 25, Kotor 35, Dubrovnik (HR) 90, Shkodra (AL) 35, Belgrade (RS) 200.
Train schedule
From Podgorica Dep. Arr. 05:50 07:00 07:11 08:10 09:30 10:40 13:00 14:10 15:20 16:30 17:00 18:10 19:06 20:16 21:00 10:00 22:20 22:10 18:50 06:36 City BAR BAR BAR BAR BAR BAR BAR BAR BAR BELGRADE BELGRADE To Podgorica Dep. Arr. 06:05 07:10 07:10 08:20 09:00 10:10 11:30 12:40 14:50 16:00 16:55 17:05 18:30 19:40 19:10 20:20 21:10 22:10 10:10 18:54 22:10 07:03
City Tel. +382 197 11, www.citytaxi.com. De Lux Tel. +382 197 06/+382 69 01 97 06 (sms), Elite Tel. +382 197 08. President Tel. +382 197 22. Red Line Tel. +382 197 14/+382 68 01 97 14 Royal Tel. +382 197 02.
(sms), info@redtaxi.me, www.redtaxi.me. www.deluxtaxi.com.
Schedule correct at time of publishing. Check all details before departure as times may change.
Balkans in Your pocket
getting around
37
Covering 70 cities and towns in nine Balkan countries, In Your Pocket offers unparalleled access to travel information and foreign travellers. Whether youre planning a business/leisure trip, or if youre looking to advertise to travellers with money to spend, In Your Pocket is the city guide series for you. www.inyourpocket.com
Albania Tirana, Shkodra, Kora Bosnia & Herzegovina Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Biha Croatia Zagreb, Bra, Dubrovnik, Karlovac, Krapina, Opatija, Osijek, Rijeka, Samobor, Senj, ibenik, Split, Varadin, Velika Gorica, Zadar Greece Athens, Thessaloniki Kosovo Pristina, Peja, Prizren Montenegro Podgorica, Budva, Cetinje, Kolain, Kotor, abljak Romania Bucharest, Braov, Poiana Braov, Sibiu Serbia Belgrade, Ni, Novi Sad Slovenia Ljubljana, Ankaran, Bistrica ob Sotli, Bled, Bohinj, Bovec, Brda, Breice, Celje, Dobrna, Izola, Koper, Kostanjevica, Kranjska Gora, Krko, Lako, Lipica, Maribor, Piran, Planica, Portoro, Posavje, Postojna, Radee, Radovljica, Sevnica, Tolmin, Vipava, Vojnik, tore.
www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com Winter - Spring 2012
38
getting around
Bus schedule
Days: 1234567 1___567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 2 4 6 _ 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 City: ARANELOVAC BANJA LUKA BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BELGRADE BIJELJINA BUDVA DOBOJ DUBROVNIK KOTOR KRAGUJEVAC KRAGUJEVAC KRAGUJEVAC KRAGUJEVAC KRAGUJEVAC KRAGUJEVAC KRALJEVO KRALJEVO KRALJEVO KRALJEVO KRALJEVO KRALJEVO KRALJEVO KRALJEVO KRUEVAC KRUEVAC LESKOVAC MOSTAR NEVESINJE NEVESINJE NEVESINJE NIKI NI NI NI NOVI PAZAR NOVI PAZAR NOVI PAZAR NOVI PAZAR NOVI PAZAR NOVI PAZAR NOVI PAZAR NOVI PAZAR NOVI SAD NOVI SAD NOVI SAD PE PE PE PE PRIJEDOR PRITINA PRIZREN PRIZREN SARAJEVO SARAJEVO Dep.: Arr: 21:35 07:30 20:30 04:00 07:30 17:30 08:30 18:30 09:45 19:45 11:00 21:00 19:00 05:00 20:00 06:00 20:45 06:45 22:30 08:30 23:00 09:00 20:25 05:55 Every 15-20 min from 05:55 to 22:25 21:20 04:30 06:00 10:30 Every 15-20 min from 05:55 to 22:25 08:30 17:50 09:45 19:05 11:00 20:20 21:35 06:55 22:27 07:45 23:00 08:20 08:30 16:00 09:45 17:15 10:00 17:30 11:00 18:30 16:30 00:00 20:15 03:45 22:27 06:00 23:00 06:30 10:00 19:00 16:30 01:30 16:30 05:30 20:30 24:00 08:30 12:30 10:50 14:50 16:45 20:45 Every 20-40min. (from 05:45 to 23:40) 10:00 19:30 16:30 02:00 20:15 05:45 08:30 15:30 09:45 16:45 10:00 17:00 11:00 18:00 16:30 23:30 20:15 03:15 22:27 05:30 23:00 06:00 20:45 08:45 22:30 09:30 23:00 10:00 07:45 13:30 21:00 02:45 21:30 03:15 22:00 03:45 21:20 08:15 21:00 05:00 07:45 15:45 21:30 05:30 07:40 13:40 09:30 15:30
Bus schedule continued

Days: 1234567 1234567 Even days 5 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 5 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 City: SARAJEVO SARAJEVO SKOPJE SPLIT SUBOTICA SUBOTICA TREBINJE TREBINJE TREBINJE ULCINJ ULCINJ ULCINJ ULCINJ ULCINJ ULCINJ ULCINJ ZADAR ZAGREB AAK, UICE, ZLATIBOR AAK, UICE, ZLATIBOR AAK, UICE, ZLATIBOR AAK, UICE, ZLATIBOR AAK, UICE, ZLATIBOR AAK, UICE, ZLATIBOR AAK, UICE, ZLATIBOR Dep.: 13:35 23:40 20:00 15:00 20:45 22:30 10:50 16:45 20:30 07:34 09:50 12:49 15:05 15:15 16:05 19:50 15:00 15:00 07:30 19:00 20:00 20:45 21:35 22:30 24:40 Arr: 19:35 05:40 06:00 01:00 09:45 11:30 13:20 19:15 23:00 09:30 11:50 14:50 17:05 17:15 18:05 21:50 02:30 06:00 14:30 02:00 03:00 03:45 04:35 05:30 07:40
Podgorica Airport (Aerodrom Podgorica) Golubovci, tel. +382 20 44 42 44/+382 20 44 42 33, fax +382 20 44 42 21, info@apm.co.me, www.montenegroairports. com. Podgoricas gleaming modern airport is 8km from the city centre, and still carries the TGD code from its Titograd glory days. To get to the airport, hop on the Montenegro Airlines bus (tickets 3) that departs 90 minutes before each of their flights from in front of the Dialogue Caf on Trg Republike. A taxi will cost about 5-10 if you order it in advance. Tivat Airport (Aerodrom Tivat) Tivat, tel. +382 32 67 09 60, fax +382 32 67 09 50, dispatch@aptivat. com, www.montenegroairports.com. Montenegros other airport, coded TIV, is four kilometres south of Tivat on the Adriatic coast, close to Kotor, and about 90km from Podgorica. It mainly receives Belgrade flights and charter airlines, but is a candidate for budget flights.
Airports
Adria Airways B-2, Ivana Vujoevia 46, tel. +382 20 20 12 01/+382 67 24 11 54, fax +382 20 24 11 54, okiairtgd@t-com.me, www.adria-airways.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Austrian Airlines Golubovci bb (airport), tel. +382 20 65 33 50, office.tgd@austrian.com, www.austrian.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Croatia Airlines B-2, Ivana Vujoevia 46 (Oki Air), tel. +382 20 20 12 01/+382 67 24 11 54, fax +382 20 24 11 54, okiairtgd@t-com.me, www.croatiaairlines.com. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
Airlines
getting around
Flight schedule
From Podgorica Dep. Arr. 06:15 07:15 09:25 10:25 19:15 20:15 07:15 08:00 18:30 19:15 14:50 16:05 11:45 13:55 15:50 16:50 15:15 16:30 15:50 16:50 10:00 15:20 10:20 13:00 10:50 12:00 10:45 11:55 17:30 18:40 17:15 18:00 08:05 09:35 15:00 16:30 08:00 09:30 15:55 17:05 10:30 12:30 12:30 15:15 Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 135 1357 57 134 57 47 26 2 5 7 1234567 1 3 6 1 2 4 5 7 3 6 1 3 5 357 247 City BELGRADE (JU) BELGRADE (JU) BELGRADE (JU) BELGRADE (YM) BELGRADE (YM) BUDAPEST (MA) FRANKFURT (YM) LJUBLJANA (YM) LJUBLJANA (JP) LJUBLJANA (JP) MOSCOW (YM) PARIS (YM) ROME (YM) ROME (YM) ROME (YM) NI (YM) VIENNA (YM) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) ZAGREB (OU) ZURICH (YM) ISTANBUL (TK) To Podgorica Dep. Arr. 07:50 08:50 17:40 18:40 20:45 21:45 08:35 09:20 19:50 20:35 13:00 14:15 14:40 16:30 17:30 18:30 13:30 14:45 17:30 18:30 17:20 18:40 14:00 16:25 14:00 15:10 15:00 16:10 19:40 20:50 08:15 09:00 10:50 12:05 12:50 14:25 10:30 12:00 14:10 15:20 13:30 15:20 11:30 10:45 Days 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 1234567 135 1357 57 134 57 47 2 6 5 2 7 1234567 136 12457 36 135 3 5 7 2 4 7
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Airline codes: Adria Airways JP, Austrian Airlines OS, Croatia Airlines OU, Jat Airways JU, Malev MA, Montenegro Airlines YM, Siberia Airlines S7, Turkish Airlines TK.
Jat Airways E-2, Njegoeva 25 (Hotel Eminent), tel. +382 20 66 47 40/+382 20 66 47 50, fax +382 20 66 53 30, podgoricato@jat.com, www.jat.com. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Malev E-2, Marka Miljanova 32 (Club Travel), tel. +382 20 62 52 42, fax +382 20 60 16 16, clubtravel@t-com. me, www.malev.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Montenegro Airlines E-2, Slobode 23, tel. +382 20 66 44 33/+382 20 44 51 05 (airport), office.podgorica@ mgx.me, www.montenegroairlines.com. Flights to Belgrade, Frankfurt, Ljubljana, Paris, Pristina, Rome, Vienna and Zurich. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Turkish Airlines E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 (Mall of Montenegro), tel. +382 20 63 48 49/+382 20 65 31 08 (Airport), mivanovic@thy.com, www.turkishairlines. com. Flights to Istanbul. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.
Bicycles
Podgorica is small and flat - and two wheels are all you really need to get around. Rent them here.
Tempo Rent-a-Bike E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 57, tel. +382 20 62 36 32, tempobike@t-com.me, www. tempo.co.me. Bicycles for rent for 5-10 per day. Near the Mall of Montenegro. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Travel agencies
The Novi Grad district
Sco
+382 20 20 31 11, fax +382 20 20 31 10, atlastours@tcom.me, www.atlasmne.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16-00. Closed Sun. Gallileo A-1, Dorda Vaingtona bb, tel. +382 20 22 95 90, fax +382 20 22 95 92, gallileo@t-com.me, www. gallileo.travel. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Gorbis A-2, Bul. Revolucije, Poslovni Centar Kruevac, tel. +382 20 20 52 15, fax +382 20 20 52 35, office. pg@gorbis.com, www.gorbis.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Grand E-1, 19. Decembra 5, tel. +382 20 66 76 70/+382 20 66 76 71, fax +382 20 66 46 66, grand@ grand.me, www.grand.me. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Laketours B-2, Ivana Vujoevia 20, tel. +382 20 24 22 42/+382 69 32 04 04, fax +382 20 20 28 00, laketours@kingsmn.me, www.kingsmn.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Montenegro Adventures B-1, Jovana Tomaevia 35, tel. +382 69 31 56 01/+382 20 20 80 00, info@ montenegro-adventures.com, www.montenegro-adventures.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Atlas Tours C-2, Bul. Svetog Petra Cetinjskog 15, tel.
40
Mail & pHones

name, inside the old Turkish bath complex. Theres free wifi too. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. WWW Club D-2, Bokeka 4, tel. +382 69 45 20 69. A lively bar with several PCs for surfing. QOpen 08:00 02:00.
Laptop login
Travellers will find many cafs, restaurants and hotels in Podgorica offering free wireless internet, for which you only need WLAN on your laptop, and possibly an access code from the waiter or reception. 3G (HSDPA) internet is now available in 20% of Montenegro, including all of Podgorica, with the rest of the country adequately covered by UMTS, EDGE and GPRS. Wireless USB modems are sold by all three mobile phone operators. Recharge vouchers cost 20 for 2GB of data. Residents can contact T-Com and M:tel for WIMAX and ADSL home packages. Dial-up services are still offered by T-Com for remote areas.
The Podgorica Museum
JvM
How to get in touch with the loved ones you left behind or came to meet.
Post
Stamps are for sale at post offices and at the kiosks near the main post office. Sending a postcard or a 20g letter from Podgorica costs 0.25 within Montenegro, and 0.50 to any destination abroad.
Mobile phones
Montenegrins are as mobile phone mad as anyone in the Balkans, and the network coverage in cites, main roads and along the coast in Montenegro is good. Anyone can buy a local prepaid SIM card for about 5 to avoid paying high roaming charges when calling or being called, and you can use them abroad too. Theyre for sale at mobile phone shops, post offices and kiosks, and no ID or registration is required.
Main Post Office (Pota Crne Gore) D-3, Slobode 1, tel. +382 20 66 54 34/+382 19 801, info@postacg.me, www.postacg.me. There are secondary post offices with more limited opening hours at ul. Orahovaka bb, Moskovska 32, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 121 and ul. Bratstva i Jedinstva bb. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Express mail
If you want your mail to arrive fast and for sure, use express mail.
City Express Sergeja Jesenjina 7, tel. +382 20 64 11 66, fax +382 20 63 35 19, backoffice@cityexpress.me, www.cityexpress.me. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. DHL E-2, Marka Miljanova 52, tel./fax +382 20 63 39 22, www.dhl.rs. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. FedEx G-3, Vojislavljevia 66, tel. +382 20 64 34 26, fax +382 20 64 34 25, www.fedex.com/me. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Montenomaks G-1, urilac bb, tel. +382 20 60 12 35/+382 69 04 01 97, fax +382 20 62 22 83, podgorica@montenomaks.co.me, www.montenomaks.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TNT Cijevna bb, tel. +382 20 60 64 50, tnt.timkop@tcom.me, www.timkop.me. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. UPS Cijevna bb, tel. +382 20 60 64 30, fax + 382 20 60 64 31, www.ups.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00.
m:tel E-2, Vuka Karadia 8, tel. +382 68 98 68, www. mtel-cg.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Telenor A-1, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona 83, tel. +382 20 23 50 00, info@telenor.me, www.telenor.me. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. T-Mobile E-2, Slobode 80, tel. +382 67 15 00, call. centar@telekom.me, www.t-mobile.me. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Telephones
Payphones Card-operated payphones are scattered throughout town. Cards worth 3 to 5 can be purchased at kiosks and post offices. Making calls To phone abroad from Montenegro, dial the international access number (00), the country code, the area code and the subscribers number. For calls within Montenegro, dial the city code and the subscribers number. Podgorica numbers have six digits. Mobile phone numbers all start with 063, 067, 068 or 069. To call to Montenegro from abroad, dial the international access number (usually 00), the country code (382), the city or mobile phone number (dropping the initial 0; Podgorica is 20) followed by the subscribers number. Montenegro telephone codes Bar 030 Kotor Berane 051 Niki Bijelo Polje 050 Pljevlja Budva 033 Podgorica Cetinje 041 Roaje Herceg Novi 031 Ulcinj Kolain 020 032 040 052 020 051 030
Internet cafs
Internet cafs in Podgorica are not as widespread as in the coastal resorts, but once youve located one youll only pay around 1 per hour. Note that in 2009 Montenegros country domain changed from .cg.yu to .me, offering the global porn industry wonderful new URL opportunities.
Foto Riva D-2, Njegoeva 38, tel. +382 20 66 55 99, fax +382 20 66 46 82, rivapg@t-com.me. QOpen 09:00 Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382
- 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. 20 60 26 25, fax +382 20 60 26 26, karver@t-com.me, www.karver.org. Paid access above the caf of the same
sHopping
Shopping in Podgorica can be a delightfully old-world experience, as it is full of small shops and boutiques that require plenty of strolling around. The arrival of the large Delta City mall on Podgoricas outskirts has certainly effected the city centre shops, but the city centre struck back with newly lit and pedestrianised streets, so its uncertain what its lasting effect will be. Many upmarket fashion boutiques can be found along Bulevard Dorda Vaingtona in the Novi Grad district.
41
Al Gallery D-2, Karaoreva 6, tel. +382 20 66 46 08, algallery@t-com.me. Montenegrin paintings and sculptures from the 20th and 21st centuries. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Miki D-2, Njegoeva 60, tel. +382 20 66 41 07/+382 67 32 11 11. Modern, traditional and magic realism paintings. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Art
Bega Press E-2, Novaka Miloeva 10. Local books and stationery supplies. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. Gradska Knjiara E-2, Trg Republike 40, tel. +382 20 21 03 75, knjizara@t-com.me. The main city centre bookshop only has a small selection of tourism-related books in English. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382 20 60 26 25, karver@t-com.me, www.karver.org. The funkiest bookshop in town, worth a visit for the atmosphere. Located inside Podgoricas old Turkish bath house, find a rather meagre selection of English-language books under the dome in the middle. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Mamut G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 20 29 00 04, www.ips.rs. The only reasonable bookshop in town, with a tiny English section. Ordering foreign books via Belgrade takes up to six weeks, enough time to write a novel yourself. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Sv. Jovan Vladimir D-2, Njegoeva 27, tel. +382 20 66 40 03. In the midst of all the cafs and bars belting out loud music, this small Orthodox Christian shop sells religious books, icons, cards and crosses. Lest you forget where we all end up. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Books & Magazines
Computers
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Tagor C-2, Svetozara Markovia 18, tel. +382 20 23 84 31, www.tagor.co.me. Quite possibly the best place in the city to come and have your laptop fixed, or for any other computer-related issues. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Jabbuka D-2, Njegoeva 9, tel. +382 20 66 56 63, www. jabbuka.com. Sales and repair of all Apple items. QOpen
Technomarket K-3, Josipa Broza Tita 18, tel. +382 78 11 31 14, www.technomarket.me. Toasters to televisions, hi-fi to hairdriers. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Electronics
Bata E-2, Slobode 15, tel. +382 20 66 76 00, batacentar@t-com.me. Affordable shoe fashion. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Benneton E-2, Novaka Miloeva 14, tel. +382 20 23 15 44, beneton@t-com.me. A small shop selling genuine gear. Smashing coloured suitcases too. QOpen 08:30 - 21:30. Closed Sun. www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com Winter - Spring 2012
Fashion & Shoes
42
sHopping
milanjyu@t-com.me. Outdoor gear inside the Ranatovi mall. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Diesel A-2, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona bb, tel. +382 20 23 46 35, www.diesel.com. Diesel denim and other clothing. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A DVD Sport Open Trade E-2, Slobode 72, tel. +382 20 66 42 54, opentrade@t-com.me. Puma sport fashion. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Ermenegildo Zegna A-2, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona bb, tel. +382 20 22 83 36, www.samms.co.me. Stylish Italian mens clothes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Esprit (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 67 26 33 97, esprit.deltacitypg@ sportina.rt, www.sportina.si. Upmarket fashion for young people. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A Haos E-2, elebi A/l4, tel. +382 69 33 19 01. Alternative, trendy fashion. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Iana G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 69 30 09 28. Affordable Italian clothes for kids. QOpen 10:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Beretta E-2, Balia 37, tel. +382 20 21 50 30,
Lacoste A-2, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona bb, tel. +382 20 23 49 03, samms@t-com.me, www.samms.co.me. Selling the stylish French brand with the croc. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Marina Rinaldi A-2, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona bb, tel. +382 69 07 37 59, www.marinarinaldi.com. Upmarket ladies fashion. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Navigare E-2, Hercegovaka 46, tel. +382 20 66 56 40, lombardia@t-com.me. Look like a sailor with bright Italian Yachting brand clothes. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. NikolaS E-2, Marka Miljanova 17, tel. +382 20 23 07 41. Leisure and business clothing. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A Orsay (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 67 26 33 96, www.orsay.de. Affordable ladies fashion. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Oviesse G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 69 30 31 13. Italian fashion for men and women. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Pal Zileri D-2, Njegoeva 16, tel. +382 20 66 45 34. Upmarket clothes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Paul & Shark A-2, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona bb, tel. +382 20 23 49 01, www.samms.co.me. Yachting-themed clothing. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A PS Fashion D-2, Hercegovaka 52, tel. +382 68 11 17 63. The Serbian Mango; trendy young womens clothes. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. Closed Sun. A Replay E-2, Slobode 25, tel. +382 20 66 42 44, replaycg@t-com.me. Jeans and other hip clothes. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Six G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 20 26 33 95, www.sportina.si. Trendy ladies fashion. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A S. Oliver B-2, Moskovska 33, tel. +382 20 22 83 28, soliver@t-com.me, www.soliver-montenegro.me. Stylish womenswear, also at Dorda Vaingtona 77 for men. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Tally Weijl (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 20 26 33 98, www.tally-weijl. com. Interesting ladies fashion. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Terranova E-2, Trg Republike 4. Trendy clothes for young men and women. Inside the Podgorianka building. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. XYZ (Sportina) G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel. +382 67 26 33 94, xyz.deltacity@sportina.me, www.sportina.si. Trendy, multibrand high fashion. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
Food & Drink
Roda Market E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 66 48

10. Perhaps a tad overhyped, Carine has a small but handy supermarket in the basement of its popular food emporium. Also on Skopska. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.
For the home
Habitat A-3, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona 11, tel. +382 20 QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
22 80 09/+382 69 06 63 50, habitatcg@t-com.me.
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Podgorica In Your Pocket www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
sHopping
Gifts & Souvenirs
69 39 90 15. The tobacco and souvenir shop inside the Crna Gora hotel sells Montenegro T-shirts (15), postcards, CDs and photo books. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. A
43
Tabacco Shop E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 2, tel. +382
Monte Jewellery & Watches D-2, Hercegovaka, tel. +382 67 64 39 70, montejw@t-com.me. QOpen 09:00 22:00. Closed Sun. A
Jewellery & Watches
GSM Planet D-2, Vuedolska 9, tel. +382 20 66 52 96/+382 69 88 81 55, batogsm@hotmail.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Mobile phones
Gloria E-1, Vaka urovia bb, tel. +382 20 66 44 14, gloria-music@hotmail.com. Music shop with a wide range of instruments, amps and expert advice. In the stadium. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Musical instruments
Photography
Foto Boni D-3, Slobode 5, tel. +382 20 66 75 05/+382 QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Foto Niki Digital E-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevia 107, tel.
20 66 74 04, office@fotoboni.net, www.fotoboni.net.
+382 20 66 41 04, radnja@fotonikic.com, www.fotonikic.com. Photo and business card printing, DVD burning, films, camera repair. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Shopping centres
tel. +382 68 80 04 10, bcalexandar@t-com.me, www. bc-alexandar.com. Shopping gallery with Cotton mens fashion, Diva womens fashion and Euphoria jewellery shops. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Atlas Centar A-2, Cetinjski put bb, tel. +382 20 40 98 22, office@c21cre.me, www.atlascentar.com. Opening in 2012, this large development with shops, offices, apartments and a hotel is set to become a new focal point in the Novi Grad district. Centar Milenium E-2, Hercegovaka 31, tel. +382 20 66 52 16. A small shopping gallery, home to fashion and shoes shops. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Delta City G-2, Cetinjski put bb, tel. +382 800 200 30 01 00/+382 68 87 86 31, mall@deltacity.me, www. deltacity.me. Montenegros first proper oping-Mol lives up to expectations, with a Super Maxi supermarket (open from 08:00), a good range of shoe and clothing shops (OVS, Mango, Zara, Aldo, Nike, Bershka, Pull and Bear, XYZ), Neptun electronics, Mamut books, the Ster cinema complex, a Costa Coffee outlet and a sports caf. Buses N2 and 5 pass by. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Mall of Montenegro E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85, tel. +382 20 62 53 14, www.mallofmontenegro.com. Opened in early 2010, this is the largest mall in the country, with the large Mercator supermarket and the lively adjoining fresh produce market (zelena pijaca) as anchors, as well as a pharmacy, bank, fashion and sports shops, a bowling alley, fitness centre and virtual shooting range. Near the train and bus stations, and reached on buses N1, 7, 8, 9. Q Open 09:00-22:00, supermarket 07:00-22:00.
Alexandar Business Centar D-2, Hercegovaka 12,
The Mall of Montenegro
JvM
08 64. Furniture in the basement, footwear, perfume, ladies clothes and souvenirs on the ground floor and even more wonderful surprises at the top of the escalator. Itll be interesting to see how long this wonderful communist-era shopping treat can hold out against the creeping claws of international capitalism. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A RM Centar D-2, Hercegovaka 10, tel. +382 69 01 35 18. Shopping gallery with MNT watches and a Stylos stationary and suitcases shop. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A
Podgorianka E-2, Trg Republike 4, tel. +382 20 23
Havana Cigar Shop E-2, Slobode 28. Cuban Cohiba cigars, smoking accessories, rum and other liquor. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Speciality shops
Baby Trend 1 E-2, Trg Republike bb, tel. +382 69 32 69 49. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Enci Menci G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City), tel. +382 69 39 57 14. Toys, clothes, childrens gear. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Kids Land E-2, Hercegovaka 49, tel. +382 69 31 88 51. Everything for children. Q Open 09:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun. Winter - Spring 2012
Toys
44
direCtory
All the addresses you need for business, emergencies, staying pretty and keeping fit.
Foreign representations
Many consulates have been converted into embassies since Montenegros independence, though not all offer consular services, referring to the larger embassies in Serbia. A full list of embassies in Belgrade can be found at www.belgrade.inyourpocket.com. 73 80, fax +382 20 66 73 81, embassy.podgorica@mfa. gov.al. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Austria D-4, Bul Svetog Petra Cetinjskog 1/A VI, tel. +382 20 20 11 35, fax +382 20 24 35 44, podgorica-ob@ bmaa.gv.at. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bosnia & Herzegovina K-1, Atinska 58, tel. +382 20 61 80 15, fax +382 20 61 80 16, amb.podgorica@mvp. gov.ba. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bulgaria K-1, Vukice Mitrovia 10, tel. +382 20 65 50 09, fax +382 20 65 50 08, bg.embassy.me@abv.bg. QOpen 09:00 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. China J-3, Radosava Buria 4a, tel. +382 20 60 92 75, fax +382 20 60 92 96, chinaemb_me@mfa.gov.cn. QOpen 08:30 - 15:00. Croatia G-1, Vladimira etkovia 2, tel. +382 20 26 97 60, fax +382 20 26 98 10, croemb.podgorica@mvpei. hr. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. France K-1, Atinska 35, tel. +382 20 65 53 48, fax +382 20 65 56 43, ambafrance@ambafrance.co.me, www.ambafrance-me.org. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Germany D-2, Hercegovaka 10, tel. +382 20 44 10 00, fax +382 20 66 72 85, deutsche.botschaft@t-com. me, www.podgorica.diplo.de. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Greece K-1, Atinska 4, tel. +382 20 65 55 44, fax +382 20 65 55 43, gremb.pod@mfa.gr. QOpen 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Hungary D-4, Kralja Nikole 104, tel. +382 20 60 29 10, fax +382 20 62 52 43, mission.pdg@kum.hu, www. mfa.gov.hu/emb/podgorica. Q Open 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy A-2, Bul. Dorda Vaingtona 83, tel. +382 20 23 46 61, fax +382 20 23 46 63, segreteria.podgorica@ esteri.it, w w w.conspodgorica.esteri.it/ambasciata_podgorica. QOpen 09.00 - 17.00, Fri 09.00 - 14.00. Closed Sat, Sun. Macedonia E-2, Hercegovaka 49/3, tel. +382 20 66 74 15, fax +382 20 66 72 05, podgorica@mfa.gov.mk. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Poland K-3, Kozaraka 79, tel. +382 20 60 83 20, fax +382 20 65 85 81, podgorica.amb.sekretariat@msz.gov. pl, www.podgorica.polemb.net. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Romania K-1, Vukice Mitrovi 40, tel. +382 20 61 80 40, fax +382 20 65 50 81, ambs.romania.mne@t-com.me. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, Wed 14:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russia Velie Mugoe 1, tel. +382 20 27 24 60, fax +382 20 27 23 17, info@ambarus.me. QOpen 08:00 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun. Serbia D-2, Hercegovaka 18, tel. +382 20 66 73 05, fax +382 20 66 43 01, embassy.podgorica@mfa.rs. QOpen 09:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Slovenia K-1, Atinska 41, tel. +382 20 61 81 50, fax +382 20 65 56 71, kpg@gov.si, www.podgorica.embassy.si. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Turkey J-3, Radosava Buria bb, tel. +382 20 44 57 00, fax +382 20 44 57 77, podgorica.be@mfa.gov.tr. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ukraine C-1, Serdara Jola Piletia 15, tel. +382 20 22 75 21, fax +382 20 22 71 81, emb_me@mfa.gov.ua, www.mfa. gov.ua/montenegro. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Accountants & Auditors

- 21:00. Closed Sun.
@tic+ A-2, Rimski trg (Poslovni centar Kruevac), tel./ fax +382 20 23 40 73, atic+@t-com.me. QOpen 08:00
Albania K-3, Stanka Dragojevia 14, tel. +382 20 66
Incognito E-2, Hercegovaka 31, tel. +382 20 66 77 25, office@incognito.co.me, www.incognito.co.me. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. McCann Erickson B-1, Moskovska bb, tel. +382 77 27 30 00, fax +382 77 27 30 12, office@mccannpr. co.me, www.mccann.co.me. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Montimprex C-4, Crnogorskih serdara bb, tel. +382 20 60 14 20, montimprex@t-com.me, www.montimprex. co.me. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Strawberry Montenegro J-1, Malo brdo N3/4-9, tel. +382 69 31 08 48, office@strawberry-mne.com, www. strawberry-mne.com.
Ad agencies
Banks
117, tel. +382 20 40 79 16, fax +382 20 40 79 76, www.atlasmontbanka.com. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Hipotekarna Banka K-3, Josipa Broza Tita 67, tel. +382 20 44 43 01, hipotekarna@hb.co.me, www.hb.co. me. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. NLB Montenegrobanka D-1, Stanka Dragojevia 46, tel. +382 20 40 20 00, fax 382 20 40 22 12, info@ montenegro-banka.com, www.nlb.me. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Podgorika Banka E-2, Novaka Miloeva 8a, tel. +382 20 40 51 00, fax +382 20 40 51 07, info.pgbanka@ socgen.com, www.pgbanka.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Atlasmont Banka B-2, Bul Svetog Petra Cetinjskog
Beauty & Wellness
Goricom), tel. +382 20 66 58 50, salon_oriente@hotmail. com. Holistic healing therapy with a wide range of massage techniques such as Swedish, Ayurvedic, forearm, elbow, four hand, foot and sports. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Gala Wellness Club B-2, Moskovska 65, tel. +382 20 22 84 13, gala@t-com.me. QOpen 13:00 - 21:00. Salon Orijente E-1, Bul Ivana Crnojevia (stadion pod
Adria Management Group B-2, Moskovska 16, tel. +382 69 52 99 83, marketing@adriamanagementgroup. com, www.adriamanagementgroup.com. Chamber of Economy of Montenegro Novaka Miloeva 29-II, tel. +382 20 23 05 45, fax +382 20 22 04 93, pkcg@pkcg.org, www.pkcg.org.
Business connections
Dentists
Suljevi E-2, Slobode 63/3, tel. +382 69 01 42 58. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
www.inyourpocket.com
direCtory
United Arab Emirates A-2, Bul Svetog Petra Cetinjskog 147, tel. +382 20 41 14 01, fax +382 20 41 14 02. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. United Kingdom K-1, Ulcinjska 8, Gorica C, tel. +382 20 61 80 10, fax +382 20 61 80 20, podgorica@fco.gov. uk, www.ukinmontenegro.fco.gov.uk. QOpen 08:00 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. USA B/C-3, Ljubljanska bb, tel. +382 20 41 05 00, fax +382 20 24 13 58, podgoricaacs@state.gov, http:// podgorica.usembassy.gov. Visits by appointment only.
45
Zoran Hair Academy D-2, Njegoeva 29, tel. +382 20 66 56 46, www.frizerzoran.co.me. Unisex hairdresser. Five other outlets in Podgorica. Q Open 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun.
Hairdressers
Codra Medica J-3, Radosava Buria bb, tel. +382 20 64 83 34/+382 20 64 83 35, fax +382 20 64 89 69, codramed@t-com.me. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Kliniki Centar Crne Gore A-3, Ljubljanska bb, tel. +382 20 41 24 12, fax +382 20 22 52 84.
Hospitals & Clinics
European Union Delegation E-3, Vuka Karadia 12, tel. +382 20 44 46 00, fax +382 20 44 46 66, delegationmontenegro@ec.europa.eu, www.delmne.ec.europa.eu. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. OSCE C-2, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 1a, tel. +382 20 40 64 01, fax +382 20 40 64 31, omim@osce.org, www. osce.org/montenegro. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.
International organisations
- 20:00. Closed Sun.
Pulito Omladinskih brigada 7, tel. +382 20 23 11 01, pulito@t-com.me. Laundry and dry cleaning. QOpen 08:00
Laundry
Vaingtona bb, tel. +382 20 40 98 22, fax +382 20 40 98 08, office@c21cre.me, www.c21cre.me. Responsible for the new Atlas Century development in Novi Grad. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Century 21 Capital Real Estate Bulevar Dorda
Real estate
Closed Sun. Prelevi E-2, Bul Svetog Petra Cetinjskog bb, tel. +382 20 23 23 48, fax +382 20 23 23 58, dp@prelevic. com, www.prelevic.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
upi C-2, Svetozara Markovia 19, tel. +382 20 24 83 77, branocupic@yahoo.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Lawyers
Municipality
Town Hall (Optina) D-2, Njegoeva 13, tel. +382 20
66 50 77, fax +382 20 66 50 42, pgopstina@t-com. me, www.podgorica.me. Podgoricas mayor is Dr. Miomir Mugoa.
Opticians
Monokl E-2, Vijenac Kosovskih Junaka 1, tel. +382 20
21 92 09/+382 20 21 92 10, optika-monokl@t-com.me. Podgorica, Blok V QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Vita E-2, Vuka Karadia 4, tel. +382 20 23 10 07/+382 20 23 09 96. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. www.podgorica.inyourpocket.com
Pharmacies
City Cyber E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 (Mall of Montenegro), tel. +382 69 75 72 42. A virtual shooting range with guns and virtual targets. 10 shots for 1. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. City Stadium (Gradski stadion) E-1, Vaka urovia 2/14b, tel. +382 20 66 42 94. The city-centre football stadium is used by the local Budunost football club and Montenegros national team. Q Tickets up to 8. Montenegro Squash Centar K-3, Put Radomira Ivanovia bb, tel. +382 20 65 83 40, www.montenegrosquash.com. A modern squash centre with 2 courts as well as aerobic, pilates and yoga sessions. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Planet Bowling E-4, Bratstva i Jedinstva 85 (Mall of Montenegro), tel. +382 20 62 47 98. A new bowling centre with 12 bowling lanes, 12 pool tables, a caf/restaurant and video games. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Bowling 3.50-4 per game. Pool tables 7/hr. Sportski Centar Moraa C-3, Ivana Milutinovia bb, tel. +382 20 24 43 26. The pride of the nation. The indoor arena with 4,200 seats is the largest in the country, and theres also two large outdoor swimming pools and a gym. XL Sport Studio F-4, Mitra Bakia bb, tel. +382 20 62 45 60, info@xlsportstudio.me, www.xlsportstudio.me. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Winter - Spring 2012
Sports
Read the In Your Pocket guides to Podgorica, Budva, Cetinje, Kolain, Kotor, Lake Skadar and abljak online free at www.montenegro.inyourpocket.com
50
index
@tic+ 44 Adria Management Group 44 Albania 44 Alexandar Business Centar 43 Alexandar Lux 11 Anovi 18 Apart Hotel Premier 11 Aria 12 Astoria 20 Atlas Centar 43 Atlasmont Banka 44 Austria 44 Austrian Airlines 38 Baby Trend 1 43 Bakina Kua 18 Balkan 35 Bambis 11 Banja Cultural Centre 10 Bata 41 Benneton 41 Benz 20 Beretta 42 Best Western Premier 11 Bianca Resort & Spa 32 Bilijar Club 24 Bjelobor 29 Blues Bar 17 Boara 22 Bojatours 11 Bokovi brvnare 29 Bosnia & Herzegovina 44 Botanika bata 35 Brile 33 British Council 10 Buda Bar 22 Bulgaria 44 Bummba 20 Caffe Caffe 20 Caffe L'Angolo 20 Cathedral of the Resurrection 25 Centar Milenium 43 Century 21 Capital Real Estate 45 Chamber of Economy of Montenegro 44 China 44 Church of the Holy Heart of Jesus 25 ile 33 City 12, 31, 36 City Cyber 45 City Express 40 City Stadium 45 Clock Tower 25 Codra Medica 45 Colombia 15 Contact 36 Corto Maltese 20 Costa Coffee 20 Crna Gora 12 Crna Gora Bar 22 Crna Gora Caf 20 Croatia 44 Croatia Airlines 38 Cruiser 23 udna uma 31 upi 45 Dali 16 Delta City 43 De Lux 36 DHL 40 Diesel 42 Dion 15 Djevojaki most 33 Doclea 25 Dragica etkovi 34 Duet 16 Duhovni Centar 20 Durmitor 30 DVD Sport Open Trade 42 Dvor 18 Elite 36 Eminent 12 Enci Menci 43 Enigma 29 Ermenegildo Zegna 42 Esprit 42 European Union Delegation 45 Fab Live 20 Family Apartments 30 Forma 17 Forum 20 Foto Boni 43 Foto Niki Digital 43 Foto Riva 40 Four Leprechauns 23 France 44 French Cultural Centre 10 Gala Wellness Club 44 Gallileo 39 Garni 33 Germany 44 Gloria 43 Gorbis 39 Gorica Forest Park 26 Gorske oi 29 Gradska Knjiara 41 Grand 20, 39 Greece 44 Green Garden 23 Greenwich 22 Hahaha 20 Haos 20, 42 Hidromoland 24 Highland 23 Hipotekarna Banka 44 Holiday 14 Hungary 44 Iana 42 Ideal 14, 36 Il Giardino 17 Imanje Knjaz 18 Incognito 44 Inpek 15 Insomnia 23 Inter City 22 Irish Pub Saint Patrick 23 Italy 44 Ivana Milutinovia Park 26 Jabbuka 41 Jat Airways 39 Javor 29 Jezerine 34 Jezero 18 Kaktus 20 Karaore Petrovi Monument 26 Karaorev Park 26 Karver 10, 40, 41 Kerber 14 Keto 12 KIC Budo Tomovi 10 Kids' Land 43 King Nikola Petrovi Monument 26 Kliniki Centar Crne Gore 45 Koliba 31 Konoba 34 Kosta's 12 Krisma 15 Kuina 18 Kubura 14 Lacoste 42 Laguna 14 Laketours 39 L'Angolo 35 Laterna 18 Leonardo 17 Lidija Rakoevi 34 Lipka 32 Loven 14 Macedonia 44 Main Post Office 40 Malev 39 Mall of Montenegro 43 Mamut 41 Mareza 18, 19 Marina Rinaldi 42 Maral 16 Maa 16 Maxim 21 MB 30 McCann Erickson 44 Meridian 36 Miki 41 Millennium Bridge 25 Mimi 15 Mint Club 23 Modern Art Gallery 25 Mondrian 35 Monokl 45 Monte Jewellery & Watches 43 Montenegro Adventures 39 Montenegro Airlines 39 Montenegro Squash Centar 45 Montenomaks 40 Montimprex 44 Moraa manastir 35 m:tel 40 Mystic 35 National Library 10 National Theatre 10 Natural History Museum 25 Navigare 42 Nero 21 Nice Vice 22 Nijagara 19 Nikola Bulatovi 34 Nikola'S 42 Njegoev Park 26 NLB Montenegrobanka 44 Nostalgija 19 Od svitanja do sumraka 23 Old town 25 Opera 16 Or'o 31 Orsay 42 OSCE 45 Oviesse 42 Pad Caf 21 Pal Zileri 42 Partizan Memorial 26 Paul & Shark 42 Petar II Petrovi Njego Monument 26 Philia 12 Piramida 14 Planet Bowling 45 Planinar 34 Planinka 30 Plavnica 12, 16 Podgorica 12 Podgorica Airport 38 Podgorica Museum 25 Podgorianka 43 Podgorika Banka 44 Pod Volat 19 Poland 44 Polar Star Apart Hotel 28 Porto 23 Prague 21 Prelevi 45 President 36 Priv 22 PS Fashion 42 Pub 111 22 Pulito 45 Rakija Bar 21 Razvrje 36 Redo Tokovi 34 Red Line 36 Regional Tourist Board Bjelasica and Komovi 32 Rembrandt 21 Renault 36 Rene 14 Replay 42 Ribnica Bridge 25 Ribnica Fortress 25 Riter 23 RM Centar 43 Roda Market 42 Rokped 36 Romania 44 Royal 36 Royal Klub 31 Russia 44 Salon Orijente 44 Sarajka 15 arovi 14 Savardak 34 Select 35 Sempre 17 Serbia 44 SFRJ 35 Shanghai 15 Six 42 Skadarlija 19 Ski Hotel 28 kolijera 15 Slovenia 44 Soa 28 S. Oliver 42 Soul II Soul 22 Sportski Centar Moraa 45 Stara Kua 19 Stara Podgorica 23 Stara varo 31 Stari Sat 21 St. George's Church 25 St Petar Cetinjski Monument 26 Strawberry Montenegro 44 Suljevi 44 Sv. Jovan Vladimir 41 Tagor 41 Taleia 21 Tally Weijl 42 Technomarket 41 Telenor 40 Tempo Rent-a-Bike 39 Terranova 42 The Bomb 26 The Market 23 The Nag's Head 22 T'ien Caffe 21 Titograd 21 Tivat Airport 38 T-Mobile 40 TNT 40 Tourism Board of Podgorica 5 Tourist Board of Kolain 32 Train station 36 Trendy 21 Tropicana 22 Turkey 44 Turkish Airlines 39 Turkish Bathhouse 26 Ukraine 44 Underhill 22 United Arab Emirates 45 United Kingdom 45 USA 45 Velvet 24 Venom 17 Vila Jelka 34 Vinoteka 24 Virtu 16 Vita 45 Vladimir Vysotsky Monument 26 Voda u Kru 15 Vodenica 34 WWW Club 40 XL Sport Studio 45 XYZ 42 Zabjelo 15 abljak 30,31 Zlatni papagaj 31 Zoran Hair Academy 45
Street index for the Podgorica city maps on pp.47-49

13 jula B/D-1 19 decembar E-1 4 jula J-3 8 marta A/C-4 Atinska K-1 Balia E-2/3 Beogradska E/F-1, F-2 Beogradska K-1 Bjelopoljska G-1 Bokeka D/E-2 Boka Buhe G-1 Bracana Bracanovia J-3 Branka Deletia G-2 Bratstva i Jedinstva E-3/4, D-4 Bulevar Dorda Vaingtona A-1/4 Bulevar Ivana Crnojevia D-1, E-1/2, F-2 Bulevar Mihaila Lalia G-1 Bulevar revolucije A-2, B-2/3 Bulevar Save Kovaevia J-3 Bulevar Svetog Petra Cetinjskog A-1, B/C-2, D-2/3, E-3 Buta Lekia E/F-3 Cara Lazara K-3 Cetinjski puta G-2 etvrte Proleterske Crnogorskih serdara Dalmatinska eevia Djeja ulica Dan Goce Deleva Gojka Radonjia Hercegovaka Hotska Ikee urovia Ivana Milutinovia Ivana Vujoevia Josipa Broza-Tita Jovana Tomaevia Karaoreva Kralja Nikole Kraljevaka Kuka Ljubljanska Ljubljanska Ljubovi Luke Boljevia Marka Miljanova F-2 C/D-4 H-1 E/F-3, F-4 B-3 E-4 K-2 D-3 D/E-2 F-3/4 D-3 C-2/3 B-2/3 K-3 C-1/2, D-1 D-2 D-3 K-3 F-3 A-3 B-3 C/D-4 D-4 E-2/3 Mee Selimovia G-1/2 Miljana Vukova E-2 Mirka Banjevia K-3 Mirka Veovia E-3/4 Mitra Bakia E-4 Mojkovaka K-2 Moskovska A-2/3, B-1, B-1 Muikia F-3 Nemanjia D-3 Nikca od Rovina H-1 Njegoeva D-2 Novaka Miloeva E-2 Obala Ribnice E-2/3 Oktobarske revolucije D/E-4 Omera Avdovia F-3/4 Omladinskih brigada F-2/3 Petra Prlje C/D-4 Prolaz Jovana Cvijia A-1 Prve Proleterske K-1 Radoja Jovanovia C-3/4 Radosava Buria J-3 Rista Stijovia F-1/-2 arkia F-3 Sava Lubarde C-4, D-3/4 Serdara Jola Piletia C-1 Serdara Jola Piletia J-1 Skopska K-1 Slobode E-2, D-3 Spasa Nikolia D-3 pira Mugoe C/D-3 Stanka Dragojevia D-1/2 Steva Kraljevia E-4 Studentska G-2 Svetozara Markovia C-1/2, B-2 Trg Boane Vuini D/E-3 Trg Golootokih rtava F-4 Trg Republike E-2 Trg vojvode Beir-bega Osmanagia D-3 Vaka urovia D/E-1 Vasa Raikovia B/C-1 Velimira Terzia A-1 Vlada Martinovia F-3/4 Vojisavljevia G-3 Vojvode Ilije Plamenca H-3 Vuedolska C/D-2 Vuka Karadia E-2/3 Vukosava Grujia K-3 rtava faizma K-2

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Hotels restaurants cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Skiing and hiking the highlands

Dining & Nightlife

Gateway to the Biogradska National Park

Mail & Phones

Maps & Index

Winter - Spring 2012

The World of In Your Pocket

Podgorica In Your Pocket

Tourism Board of Podgorica (TOP) E-2, Slobode

Winter - Spring 2012

Gay & Lesbian

The zelena pijaca market

Join Podgorica In Your Pocket on Facebook for updates

Winter - Spring 2012

Podgorica In Your Pocket

French Cultural Centre (Centre Culturel Franais)

Cineplexx G-2, Cetinjski put bb (Delta City mall), tel.

KIC Budo Tomovi (Dom Omladine Budo Tomovi)

Karver E-3, Obala Ribnice, Cvijetin brijeg bb, tel. +382

American Corner E-1, Vaka urovia 12 (KIC Budo

City Theatre (Gradsko Pozorite) D-2, Bokeka

National Theatre (Crnogorsko Narodno Pozorite)

Podgorica In Your Pocket

Winter - Spring 2012

Kostas K-2, Bul. Pete Proleterske, tel. +382 20 65 67

Eminent D-2, Njegoeva 25, tel. +382 20 66 46 46, fax

Podgorica C-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 1, tel.

Ambiente G-2, Cetinjski put 34, tel./fax +382 20 23

Aria J-3, Mahala bb, tel. +382 20 87 25 70, fax +382

Podgorica In Your Pocket

Laguna G-3, Vojislavljevia 72, tel. +382 20 64 17

Loven Zetskih vladara bb, Petrovaki put, tel./fax +382

Lively Hercegovacka street

Ideal K-2, rtava Faizma bb, tel. +382 20 62 70 67,

Kerber E-2, Novaka Miloeva 6, tel. +382 20 40 54

Montenegro Hostel F-4, eevia 25, tel. +382 69 03

Podgorica In Your Pocket

Dion G-3, Voislavljevia bb. A small selection of sticky buns

Express Restoran F-4, Trg golootokih rtava (bus

kolijera (Voda u Kru) D-2, Bul. Ivana Crnojevia 151,

Voda u Kru D-1, Bul. Ivana Crnojevia 149, tel. +382

Sarajka K-2, Bul. Pete Proleterske, Zgrada

Winter - Spring 2012

Lupo di Mare D-2, Trg Republike 22, tel. +382 67 90 92

Maa B-2, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog 31, tel. +382 20 22

Maral B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 56, tel. +382 20

Crna Gora Restaurant D/E-3, Bul. Sv Petra Cetinjskog

Opera A-2, Rimski trg 59 (Poslovni Centar Kruevac),

Virtu B-2, Bul. Sv. Petra Cetinjskog 131, tel. +382 20

St Petar Cetinjskis monument

Carine Centar E-2, Slobode 43, tel. +382 20 40 24 00,

Podgorica In Your Pocket

Carine Restoran B-2, Moskovska 2-9, tel. +382 20

Mona Lisa E-2, Balia 4, tel. +382 20 23 05 48. La Gi-

Il Giardino A-2, Rimski trg 28, tel. +382 69 31 33 13,

Leonardo B-1, Svetozara Markovia bb, tel. +382 20

Blues Bar E-2, Novaka Miloeva 44, tel. +382 67 20 24

Winter - Spring 2012

La Buena Vida B-4, 8 marta 13, epurci, tel. +382 69 55

Anovi A-2, Spomen park Kruevac, blok 9, tel. +382 69

Bakina Kua A-2, Trg Vektre 12, tel. +382 20 23 43