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mouth. Even though Sketch B shows this with the eyes & ears, nose and mouth only very simply defined, you can see how everything 'looks right' already.
n fact many portrait artists start with this triangle to position the eyes and nose on the canvas or paper before even constructing the head shape. Now look closely at the dotted lines that drop down from the centre of the eyes. Notice that they meet the outer edges of the mouth.
Although all the shadows are important, I want you to note three areas in particular that do more than anything to suggest to the viewer that features are protruding from or set into the face. Firstly, the shadows immediately above both eyes - even the right eye which is getting some direct light - tells us that the eyes are recessed into the eye sockets. Second, look how the shape of the nose and the impression that it comes forward from the face, is defined by no more than the shadow on the left hand side and the flattened 'V' representing the nostrils, with a little more shadow underneath. Thirdly, Note that the bottom lip is not always drawn in full. It often looks better if its presence is suggested by a little shadow underneath. This shadow then immediately fades away and the highlight below it tells us that this is the front of the chin protruding slightly.
Let's start with the two photos of the faces we'll be using. The view of the woman is from below and to the left whilst that of the man is above from the left.
You can see from the photos how the guidelines I've super-imposed confirm what I've said about things like the eyes being half-way down the head and the tip of the nose being halfway between the eyes and the chin, etc. From there, I've used the principles outlined earlier to create these two sketches. Although I think they're a reasonable likeness, they're only really a couple of practice sketches, designed to prove the theories I've mentioned actually work. Notice also how I've added shading to bring out the shapes of different parts of the face. The shadows under the nose, chin, around the eyes and the bottom lip are particularly important in creating the bone structure of the subject.
At the early stages of learning how to draw faces, don't beat yourself over the head if the exact likeness doesn't happen the first few times. It does take practice until bringing all these ideas together starts to become automatic. A bit like learning to drive a car or a honing a golf swing. Remember, a few quick sketches, each produced in a few minutes, will bring on your skills very quickly. You don't need to set a whole evening to one side. In fact, sketching faces like this is not much more than creative doodling. However, it's an excellent means of developing your style and drawing confidence in small, bite-sized chunks of time. If you've ever been stuck in a boring meeting (in my case, hundreds of them in my previous life) then the agenda papers and minutes are ideal to practice on! With a bit of effort, you can easily produce these faces (hopefully even better!) in not much more time than it takes you to read this article. So go on - have a go and surprise yourself!
It's merely the imprint of a child's hands which have been covered in paint then pressed down on paper. But see how it shows where the joints of the fingers are. And notice that there's some gaps in the images. This gives a clue to where the joints are and that some parts of the finger are fatter or thinner than others. Now let's move on to the first stage of drawing.
When learning how to draw hands, you'll soon realise there is as much variety of shape as there is in the size and shape of the human body .
The thing to remember when learning how to draw hands is that there are a thousand and one poses and gestures that they can take. Clenched fist, shaking hands with someone else, holding a pencil, pointing, front, back or side view and so on. With practice you can learn to draw hands that impart a great deal of character, not only of themselves, but more importantly about their owner... The beauty of this how to draw hands tutorial is that whenever you pick up a pencil, you automatically have the subject matter, right there in front of you. You can use your non-drawing hand to adopt a variety of poses, which you can copy for as long as you want. All of these can easily be copied from your own or a friend's hand. Incidentally, if you find it awkward to draw like this because you normally use your free hand to hold you paper, get into the habit of taping the edge down with masking tape or similar, to your work surface. I promise you, you'll get so much satisfaction from accurately drawing your hand in different gestures. All it takes is a little perseverance and practice. Go on! Try it. You'll be amazed at what you can achieve!
See how we have the oval shape of the tulip (bottom right), the round shape of the daisy (top right) and the triangular shape to represent the 'trumpet ' outline of the foxglove (bottom left). Now let's look at the petals. Again the shape of the daisy is no more than a series of fairly regular, oval 'spokes'. On the other hand, the rose (bottom centre) has its petals wrapped around and around like a spiral. The tiger lily on the other hand has a combination of a triangle shape and ovals. Once we understand this, it's much easier to 'read' the shape of the flower and petals and you're well on the way to learning how to draw flowers quickly and effectively.
In the next stage, you're going to start filling in - in pencil -the more realistic shapes of petals. Don't draw your lines too hard at this point. Concentrate on getting the shapes right first. I've actually done my lines in ink at this point because it makes it easier for you to see what I'm on about. But for now stick to pencil. You'll find that if you use light lines, you'll get much more of a feel of delicate petals, which is the effect you're trying to achieve.
However, don't, at this stage, worry about putting in details such as shadows and veins. That comes next. How To Draw Flowers - Stage 4 In this final stage, we can now come to the part which brings everything to life - the shadows, the lights and darks and the delicate folds and curves of each petal. Take your time over this but don't overdo it. Think all the time about the delicacy and lightness of a flower and try to replicate this in your work.
Of course you might say 'what about those flowers that have very narrow, spiky petals or the many varieties of Dahlia, with their round, ball-like profile? Well if you look at any flower, you'll see that each of the shapes we've drawn here can be adapted slightly to cover pretty well any variety you can think of! With a little practice, you should be able to create an authentic image of any type of flower you want - whether it be a single stem or an entire bouquet! Leves also conform to the same general patterns - broad and oval, long and slim or quite rounded, like a Geranium for example. However, if you look at any leaf, you'll soon learn to associate a shape with it that will enable you to draw it without any problem.
Before roses actually open out, each petal is wrapped around the one below like a spiral. A really good way to understand and see this is to peel a tomato as you would peel an apple. If you can keep the peel in one long piece, then roll it up, you'll find it makes a perfect impression of a rose that hasn't yet fully bloomed! Keep this spiral effect in mind when you're drawing and it may help. Anyone in the catering trade will know this trick. As an aside from drawing, it's a really neat way to embellish a salad... However, enough of the food. We're here to draw. Let's move on to Stage 1 of this how to draw roses tutorial.
In my usual style, I've superimposed guide lines over the pictures to show that despite the intricacy of the petals, they're really only basic shapes to point you in the right direction. These should also make sure the sizes are in proportion as well.
Sketch these shapes lightly in pencil until you're happy with the overall proportions.
Note how they've been drawn on the larger rose in the direction that the petals actually grow to suggest the veins and undulations. Have a close look at a petal on a real rose and you'll see what I mean.
Notice first that the top (black) pencil has a long point on it. I've achieved this with a craft knife. Pencil sharpeners are OK but you can't get the tip of the pencil like this with them. The tip of the yellow pencil has been done with a pencil sharpener. This will soon wear down as you sketch and you'll be constantly stopping to re-sharpen it. The long point on the black pencil means that I can make a broader, more confident line, achieving the full thickness of many of the lower branches, in one go. Also, when I come to shade in larger areas, I can do this much more quickly and effectively holding the pencil this way. Look at the three marks I've made - all with this same point. The widest one is achieved just by holding the pencil with the point flat to the paper, like a pastel stick. This is perfect for sweeping in the thicker, lower branches in one go. As I reach the uppermost twigs, I can start to use more of the point to get the finer lines needed here. Incidentally, the photo also shows a putty eraser. These can be pulled and stretched to a fine point or edge to take out just a small area of pencil if you want - ideal for lifting out highlights! They're also less likely to damage the surface of your paper than a cheaper general purpose eraser.
develops. Don't worry if your guidelines aren't perfect - remember, they are just that - a guide - and some of them will be rubbed out shortly anyway. Also, don't concern yourself about producing specific species of tree just yet - we can look at that when you've built up your confidence with this
However, a summer tree covered in leaves needs a little more work. As in Sketch 4, I've lightly scribbled an outline round the edge of the tree. I've also rubbed out some, but not all, of the branches. The ones left are those you can see through the leaves. When I teach students how to draw trees I always emphasise how important it is to create a threedimensional effect and also show the 'openness' of the tree. Putting in some branches here and there gives the impression of them twisting in and out of view as they spread to the outer edges of the tree. Remember, a tree is not a flat object... It has branches coming towards and going away from you as well as the ones you see either side and in the centre as well. I've drawn some light outlines around these remaining branches just to remind you that these are your 'sky holes'. Once you've a little more experience you won't need to bother with this.
Try letting your pencil dance over the tree in a demented scribble. This, with a little practice, can create an excellent representation of leaves. Dark areas can be filled in to create lights and darks next to each other. Or you could shade in most areas as with the Ace of Clubs in sketch 1, then lift out highlights with an eraser. The sketches below show these ideas in more detail.
When you add your shadow on the ground on the opposite side from the sunlight, put a smaller area of shadow on the ground on the sunlit side as these branches would still cast some shadows. Notice that I've also taken out the bottom line where the trunk meets the ground... Look at the examples in the sketch of the trunks (above) for comparison and see how the right hand drawing makes the trunk 'grow' right out of the ground and not sit on top of it. Remember also when you learn how to draw trees, to draw your boughs and branches from the base upwards i.e. as the tree would 'grow'. Make sure each branch in your sky holes appears to come from a logical point on the trunk below. The eye will then happily 'fill in' the branch's position behind the leaf clusters even though you haven't actually drawn it. Now have a look out of your window or find a photo of a real tree and try copying it. Simplification is the key! You're looking for a basic outline to begin with and you don't want to copy every leaf - just the main leaf clusters. These tend to be either rounded balls or flat, as in the case of evergreens. The bottom half of the visible part of the trunk should be lit up with sunlight on one side, with the other side in increasing shadow. Look at Sketch 5. The trunk area immediately below the bottom leaf clusters will usually all be in shadow as very little light will be able to reach, whatever the position of the sun.To Sum Up... Finally, as with many art techniques, learning how to draw trees is often easier to do than to describe... Hopefully, this tutorial has given you a few pointers to give you the confidence to get going.
I suggest you use an HB pencil which is dark enough to see but will erase easily.
Use this and other blocks as 'scaffolding' to develop your drawing. Get this box shape in roughly the correct proportions and you can be confident your finished version is going to be pretty well spot on. If you want to print this image to use it to trace the outline, feel free. I suggest you enlarge it slightly on your printer if possible, then scribble pencil on the reverse (a bit like carbon paper) and lightly trace it onto your drawing paper. Remember, your going to erase many of these construction lines as you progress. By the way, if you're a beginner, tracing an image isn't 'cheating' as some might say. If it helps you at first to understand that much quicker and more thoroughly how to draw a car - or anything else for that matter - then go for it!
This will make this three-quarter view 'look right' when we come to add all the details.
Notice how the hatching (shading) on the bonnet, seats and roof help to illustrate the shape and angle of the panels. Decide which side your sunlight is coming from and maintain that consistency when you emphasise the highlights. Now add your darkest darks in the wheel arches, under the car and the interior, etc. Add some shadow where the wheels touch the ground as well. This always helps and object to 'sit down' on the ground. And with a bit of luck, a little practice and perseverance, there you have it! A 1926 Ford Model T, straight out of Detroit!
I've done these in black pen so you can see the lines easier. I suggest you use an HB pencil which is dark enough to see but will erase easily. If you want to print this image to use it to trace the outline, feel free. I suggest you enlarge it slightly on your printer if possible, then scribble pencil on the reverse (a bit like carbon paper) and lightly trace it onto your drawing paper. Remember, you're going to erase many of these construction lines as you progress. By the way, if you're a beginner, tracing an image isn't 'cheating' as some might say. If it helps you at first to understand that much quicker and more thoroughly how to draw cars - or anything else for that matter - then go for it!
A series of quick light lines will look better and actually give some 'movement' to the picture. If you do get it wrong, rub out and go over that section again. As you become more confident you'll notice that your drawing speeds up and the lines you produce will look more professional.
A good way to bring out highlights in this drawing is to lightly shade all the bodywork with your pencil. Now take your rubber - a putty rubber which you can mould to a point is ideal - and lift out highlights from the grey bodywork. You can use this technique to give the car its subtle curves. Decide which side your sunlight is coming from and maintain that consistency when you emphasise the highlights. Now add your darkest darks in the wheel arches, under the car and the interior, etc. And there you have it. The original 'Bond' car developed quite quickly and easily from a few square blocks. 'Hope you enjoyed it!
Now read on to see how easy it is to learn to draw using these shapes to start you off ...
Then you can think about producing a tidier, more refined image. As it should be. However, by doing these rough practice sketches without constraints, you'll learn to draw the finished piece so much better. That's how you learn! What using these basic shapes does is show you at once if you've got the overall proportions correct. If you're not happy, it's a simple process to adjust the size and outline of one or more of the shapes until it looks right. What often happens is that people who are trying to learn how to draw spend loads of time laboriously drawing part of the object in minute detail. Then they find that it becomes progressively less like what they intended so frustration and fatigue sets in. A typical problem is that they're going OK then realise that they've not allowed enough room for the completed image to fit on their paper. They don't want to start again, so they try and 'manipulate' the rest of the picture into the remaining space on the paper. It never works ... Been there, done that! Loads! The only way to avoid this is to get your broad shapes down on the paper to start with so you know everything fits! Getting the main shapes down quickly also means you save time and retain your enthusiasm as you see what you're drawing start to look like how you imagine it should do. The whole thing including the more detailed bird sketch below took me about two minutes - but then I've had a bit of practice! You could easily do this in under ten minutes. In fact, set yourself a time limit. You'll be amazed how your drawing improves under pressure! The clock ticking away forces you to avoid fiddling and trying to get things absolutely perfect. (Perfection rarely happens anyway). Instead, the brain instinctively picks out the important lines that give you the broad shape. Try it. It's a great way to learn to draw - and quick too...!
I've partially erased them but left enough to show how easy it is to adjust the image this way 'till you're satisfied with it. Notice that the bottom half of the circle used for the rounded top section of the bottle has been discarded in the developed drawing. Also note that it is quite easy to round off the flat base of the bottle in the final drawing as well as the bottle label helping to promote a rounder, more 3D effect. By the way, don't throw these first efforts away when you've finished them. In the tutorial on how to draw solid, three-dimensional objects, you'll learn to use these examples incorporating light and shade. At this stage, I'm keeping things simple for you, to build your confidence in getting familiar objects looking right. You'll therefore be able to progress very easily from sketching a flat simple, framework and learn to draw great-looking three-dimensional items that really come to life with highlights and shadows! Right! Let's move on to a subject many students avoid at all costs! People doing learn to draw courses invariably panic when first asked to do a sketch of an animal - especially a four-legged one! The head ends up as big as the body - which has been drawn too small anyway and they can never get all four legs the same length or width. Oh yes! And they can't fit them in anyway because they've drawn the body too close to the bottom of the paper ... Or, having drawn in detail one bit of the animal to a standard they're happy with, they then rub out the rest and then try to marry up the new bits up with what's left. Result - disaster, frustration and a lot of wasted time and effort.
It's now not too difficult to round off some of these construction lines to create a more realistic beast as below.
Why does this happen? It's because you learn to draw it armed with the confidence that you've got the basic shape right at the outset. And look how easy it is to draw the head in a different position, just by moving some triangles around!
Summary
Now, having practised these simple exercises, don't worry if it takes several attempts before you start to get it right. That's quite normal. However, you'll learn to draw in a different way now. More and more, you'll see subjects as one or more simple shapes instead of a jumble of lines and colors that put you off before you start. Look at the two images below. This is painting I did a while back of a typical English village cricket scene. Now if you're starting to learn to draw, where would you begin on the outlines for this? Never mind having to paint it as well! a
Well, using the system I've just gone through, it's a lot easier than you might think. In the second image I've marked in red some basic shapes that replicate some of the elements in the picture. I haven't marked everything otherwise it would get too confusing. You can see that they're not a perfect match but they don't need to be - they're a guideline, not a straitjacket! Notice how you can have triangular clouds and square trees if you want... and oblong lakes! You choose the shapes...
You can of course copy these pictures I've done or pick up a magazine or have a look at any photo. Better still look at some object around you - anything at all. Decide which of the basic shapes would best fit it. By doing this you're starting a process that will really help you learn to draw - that of observation. The more you practise this the more your brain will store up these images for you to pull out and sketch in the future. So go on. Get your pencil and paper and start right now!
Equally, a house wall viewed from the front is normally the same height at both ends. If it wasn't it would look pretty unusual and the roof would probably slide off one end! Yet when we draw it as a 'perspective drawing', ie in a three-dimensional way, the far end slopes away from us and we accept this as quite normal. Why? Because we're seeing it 'in perspective'. And that's all a perspective drawing is. It's how you see things which will always be a little bit different from me or anyone else.Perspective Drawing - Stage 1 Look at the two sketches of the four different figures below. In the first, imagine they are all looking directly at spot on the brick wall on the left directly in line with the height of their eyes from the ground. Imagine also that they're so focussed on this one brick that they can't see anything else either side or above or below it. I've shaded the 4 bricks in the wall that each one is looking at. They're all different because each figure is at a different height so they're seeing different things. Each sees a different brick.
In the next sketch they are all looking at the same brick. But what has happened?
They all see the same brick from a different angle, so it will appear to each of them to be a slightly different shape. In one case a figure is looking down at the brick, another one is looking straight at it, whilst the other two are looking up at it. If you're not sure about this, think of watching a ball game or a game of soccer from the back of the top tier of the stands. Then watch the same game from pitchside. You get a totally different view - or..... perspective!
In the three sketches, it's as if you're on an extendable ladder as you see the same building from three different points. Yet all we've done is adjusted your EYE LEVEL. So HOW DO we adjust it? Dead easy! The two points on either side of the building where all the construction lines meet are called the Vanishing Points (VP) - a theoretical point where all these lines join up and 'vanish'. Now here's the simple but clever bit... Draw the horizontal lines of your building, ie: the roofline, the top of the door and top and bottom of the windows on these construction lines. Put them in heavier than the construction lines as in the sketches. Then draw the sides of the building, door and windows vertically. You'll find you have the whole house as a perfect perspective drawing! This is one exercise where I'd really encourage you to use a ruler, 'till you get the hang of it. There can be as many of these lines as you need. You decide. The important thing is that all the thick lines should be on the feint construction lines, or the perspective drawing will look wrong. And make sure they all start from the same Vanishing Points, like mine.
The actual space between the foreground and the horizon is in reality much narrower than the first sketch.
See what happens... Your view is automatically lowered and you appear to be standing at ground level. To emphasise the point, have a look at the figure in each sketch. They're both the same size, but in the lower one, he stands way above the horizon line, further reinforcing the lower viewpoint. Try this yourself. All you need to make the road are the two large 'S' shapes, gradually coming together on the horizon. You don't need to bother with the hills. I've put them in to emphasise the distance.Remember, the more you flatten the 'S' shapes, the lower the view of your perspective drawing... Of course this could be a river instead of a road. Or the lines could be straighter and be a pattern on a table cloth. You would draw the tablecloth or a carpet using exactly the same principles of foreshortening and perspective drawing.
I hope this introduction to simple perspective will take some of the fear and mystery out of it. Sure, it takes a little practice and perseverance, but once the penny drops, you're perspective drawing will come on in leaps and bounds. Remember, good observation is the key. Look carefully and draw what you see. Not what you think ought to be there!
Composition roules