Fall 2012

Sewing Solutions
%,/* !$*%-1!/"+.0$!225!3%/0
BY NICOLE VASBINDER

Even the best sewists will encounter problems, snags, and little
glitches in their work. Expert sewist Nicole Vasbinders Sewing
Solutions is an indispensable reference filled with invaluable
advice.
Organized by stages, youll find:
!0%(!  2%!"+.0$!/!3%*#,.+!//%*(1 %*#,.+/*
cons, and basic considerations of working in each step.

*!/50+"+((+3(5+10,.+2% %*#/%%*"+.)0%+*/3!((
as step-by-step techniques for making bias tape, sewing
trims, buttonholes, zippers, hems, and more.
/50+*2%#0!+(+.+ ! .+//.!"!.!*!/2%((!"+.
quick referencing.
.+1(!/$++0%*#0%,/0$0 2%/!$+30+ !(3%0$!2!.5
sewing situation.
Whether choosing the right tools, reading patterns correctly,
or everything in between, Sewing Solutions will prove to be an
essential sewing companion.

Nicole Vasbinder owns and operates StitchCraft and an independent accessory line Queen Puff Puff. A founding teacher of Stitch
Lounge in San Francisco, she currently teaches at Stonemountain
and Daughter Fabrics in Berkeley. Her designs have been featured
in the Wall Street Journal, Adorn Magazine, JoAnn Magazine, Venus
Zine and Craft. She lives in Petaluma, California.

ISBN: 978-1-59668-598-7

Page Count: 192

Format: Flexibound

Trim Size: 5 8

US Price: $19.95

Release Date: December

Canada: $19.95

Season: Fall 2012

Sewing Solutions

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TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT: NOTIONS AND

TRIMS

Bias Tape

Rickrack

FACTS

FACTS

SECTION TWO

Solutions
& Tricks

What it is
What it is

Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, cut on

the bias or cross-grain to make it more stretchable than
fabric that is cut on the grain. It is used to make piping,
binding seams, and to finish raw edges. Many strips can be
pieced together to form a long tape. Bias tape widths can
vary from about to about 3 depending on what it is
being used for.
see p.143: What is cross grain?

Also called ric rac or rick-rack, rickrack is made by braiding

thread into a flat zigzag shaped tape, it is used as trim on
clothes and curtains. Typically, rickrack is made from
polyester and from a single color, and it has a dull or
matte finish. Rickrack can also be metallic, glossy, or
variegated with strips or gradations of color. Some
manufacturers add decorative details with embroidery or
paint to make rickrack more colorful.

CHAPTER 5
FABRIC SOLUTIONS

Most commonly seen on

80

Most commonly seen on

Aside from piping, binding, and finishing raw edges, bias tape is
most commonly seen on edges of quilts, placemats, bibs, as
dress or bag straps, and around armholes and necklines.

Q.
A.

Types of bias tape

Commercially available bias tape is usually of three types:
simple, single-fold, and double-fold bias tape.

Can you make bias tape?

Yes, its possible to make these at
home using bias tape makers,

Rickrack is often used on quilts and curtains, but its

flexible enough to be used for almost any project your
imagination suggests. You can attach it along the hem of an
item, apply it as a top trim or insert half way into a seam to
create a scalloped edge.

Q. Can you make rickrack?

A. Yes, the simplest options are
to knit or crochet with fine

which come in a range of sizes.

see p.73: Bias tape makers

Where to get it
Most fabric stores stock bias tape. Store bought bias tape
comes in a variety of widths and a huge range of colors, but
the majority of these are solid rather than patterned.every
crafter should knowHomemade bias tape is great if you
want a patterned bias to match the fabric used in your
project. Its also so simple to make that most crafters prefer
to use their own rather than store bought!
see p.142: Making bias tape

Q. Why use bias strips?

A. Most woven fabrics (unless they
have a bit of spandex blended
in) have no stretch. But if you tug

94

CHAPTER 7
SEWING SOLUTIONS

120

needles using thread that can hold

Where to get it

its shape.

Most craft and fabric stores sell rickrack, usually in an

assortment of colors and patterns to meet crafting
needs. In some cases, the material is available by the yard,
allowing crafters to select as much as they need. Other
stores sell rickrack in prepackaged lengths, which can result
in an excess of unused rickrack.

Q. How to apply rickrack?

A. Rickrack is usally applied by hand
using thread that matches the item
being decorated. If youre not

CHAPTER 8
EMBELLISHMENT AND
TRIMMING SOLUTIONS

138

CHAPTER 9
FITTING SOLUTIONS

162

CHAPTER 10
FINISHING SOLUTIONS

174

much for hand sewing, it can also

be straight stitched through the

a piece of woven fabric along the

bias, the fabric will give a little bit.

Every crafter should know

middle by machine, or if the item

Its not that it stretches but it has

Other thread, such as silk or cotton, may be used, but the

resulting rickrack may be more expensive.

youre making wont be washed,

some ease to it. Tape made from

CHAPTER 6
PATTERN SOLUTIONS

simply glue on the rickrack.

see p.150: Sewing on

trims

bias-cut fabric forms around

curves much more easily, without
causing fabric to pucker.

SEE ALSO

SEE ALSO

p.73: Section One: Chapter 4: Bias tape makers

p.142: Section Two: Chapter 8: Making bias tape
p.143: Section Two: Chapter 8: What is cross grain?

p.150: Section Two: Chapter 8: Sewing on trims

44

45

78

SOLUTIONS AND TRICKS: EMBELLISHMENT AND TRIMMING SOLUTIONS

FIBER CONTENT OF FABRICS

SOLUTIONS AND TRICKS: FABRIC SOLUTIONS

Use the burn test to identify the fiber content of a mystery fabric.
This will help to sew, press, and care better for your project. Clip off
a 3 length of yarn or fabric, hold one end with sturdy metal tongs
and light one end of the sample. Observe the sample for the results
listed here to determine the fiber content.

Determining the
fiber content

79

Making bias tape: Method 1

YOU WILL NEED

Does not burn

First decide how wide your strips should be. If you are
making single fold bias tape, you want your strips to be twice
the width of your final tape minus 1/8 (so for 1/2 single fold
bias tape, you need 7/8 wide strips). For double fold bias tape
you want your strips four times the width of your final tape
minus 1/8.

selvage

Not self
extinguishing

Self extinguishing

The bias
(diagonall to the
(diagona
selvedge of the fabric)

Burns and chars

Smells of
burning grass

Burns briefly
and chars

Burns and melts

Smells of
burning paper

Soft, gray ash

LINEN,
JUTE, HEMP

Smells of
vinegar

Smells of
burning meat

Burns briefly
and melts

Smells of
burning hair

Smells of
turmeric

Hard, black,
irregular ash

Hard, black,
irregular bead

Soft, black,
irregular ash

Soft,
black beads

ACETATE OR
TRIACETATE

ACRYLIC (ORLON,
ACRILAN)

ACRYLIC (ZEFRAN,
ZEFKROME)

SILK

Irregular,
dark ash

Smells
of celery

Smells of
burning
asphalt

BURNS

GLASS,
ASBESTOS,
METAL

bias fold

cut edge

Sharp,
chemical
odor

Open, lacelike ash

Hard,
gray beads

Hard,
tan beads

Hard, black,
irregular
beads

WEIGHTED
SILK

NYLON

OLEFIN

MODACRYLIC

1 yard of fabric
Bias tape maker
see p.73 Bias tape
makers
Quilting ruler
Iron
Tailors chalk or pencil
Rotary cutter
Cutting mat

Sweet,
chemical
odor

COTTON,
RAMIE, RAYON

Soft, black ash

MERCERIZED
COTTON OR
MERCERIZED

WOOL,
CASHMERE,
MOHAIR, ALPACA

Hard, black,
irregular
beads

Hard, black,
round beads

VINYON

POLYESTER

102

Linen

Acetate

Acrylic

Silk

Wool

Nylon

Rayon

bias
cut edge

If you need to make your

triangle even smaller still, cut
along the bias fold you have
created.

Polyester

103

142

Q. What is a cross grain?

A. Looking at the fabric diagram

the cut edge (where it was

Fold the selvage over to form a

triangle, creating a 45 degree
fold along the bias.

Then fold the triangle in half

again.

cut from the big bolt at the

fabric shop) and the other
edges create fabric grain
lines. The selvage is

cut edge

3
bias
fold

the lengthwise grain, while

Im making wide doublefold bias tape, so I need to cut

2 wide strips. Remember that
youre cutting from the BIAS
CUT EDGE. Use your chalk to
mark which edge is which, if
you need to. Using a rotary
cutter, quilting ruler, and
cutting mat, continue cutting
your strips till you get to the
end of your fabric.

bias
cut edge

Cut along that fold and voila,

you have a bias cut edge!

If you have a super long

cutting mat, you can start
cutting bias strips now along
the bias cut edge. Go straight
to Step 6.

4
bias
cut edge

But since most of us have a

small cutting surface, fold the
triangle in half along again,
creating another 45 degree
fold along the bias. This will
allow you to cut more of the
fabric at once on a smaller
cutting mat.

the cut edge is the crosswise

grain. The bias is a diagonal
line in the middle of that,
creating a bias grain. It makes
two 45 degree angles with
the cut edge and the selvage.

FABRIC FOR
BIAS TAPE
Fabrics with small prints work
best, as large prints might not be

Now sew all the strips together. This can be tedious but this
method is fairly quickly and seems easiest to me.

obvious on a thin bias tape. Here

are some types of fabric you can
make bias tape from:

Overhang

p.73: Section One: Chapter 4:

Bias tape makers
p 146: Section Two: Chapter 8:
Making a Bias tape: Method 2

FABRIC TIPS

on the far left, one edge is

bias
cut edge

Take two strips of fabric that

have edges angled in the same
direction.

SEE ALSO

Cotton

bias
cut edge

edge is the Selvage. Both

bias
cut edge

Soft, gray ash

MAKING BIAS TAPE

right
angle
90

Put the right sides of the fabric

together. You need the tip of
each strip to overhang a bit,
(youll see why in the next
step). The strips end up
overhanging about ) and
make a 90 degree angle with
each other. Try to be as exact

100% cotton
Cotton/poly blend
(I find this easiest to use)

Satin (or Polyester Satin)

Knits
Flannel, corduroy, and
cotton variations

143