Modelling StuG III Ausf G

Modelling Panzertruppen
Stug III Ausf G
www.panzertruppen.org
INDICE INDICE....................................................................................................................................... 2 Stug III Ausf G ........................................................................................................................... 3 Initial construction ................................................................................................................. 4 Superstructure and hull .......................................................................................................... 4 Details .................................................................................................................................... 5 Painting .................................................................................................................................. 6 Tracks and tools ..................................................................................................................... 8 Markings and weathering....................................................................................................... 9
Stug III Ausf G

The StuG III ausf G, the ultimate version of Germany's famous assault gun, underwent many modifications during 2% years of production. I wanted to build a model with features seen on StuGs by May 1944. Key are side-opening loader's hatches, a close-in-defense weapon port, a remote MG34 on the roof, and triangular-style mounts on the schurzen rails. I based my build on Dragon's old Imperial Series kit (No. 9014), which used a topfilende cast mantlet with coaxial machine gun port (a feature not introduced until October 1944). I replaced it with an aluminum barrel and resin The StuG III ausf G, the ultimate version of Germany's famous assault gun, underwent many modifications during 2% years of production. I wanted to build a model with features seen on StuGs by May 1944. Key are side-opening loader's hatches, a close-in-defense weapon port, a remote MG34 on the roof, and triangular-style mounts on the schurzen rails. I based my build on Dragon's old Imperial Series kit (No. 9014), which used a topfilende cast mantlet with coaxial machine gun port (a feature not introduced until October 1944). I replaced it with an aluminum barrel and resin welded-block mantlet from Armorscale. Other add-ons included LionRoar pho-toetched metal, Modelkasten workable tracks, and waffle-patterned Alkett Zimmerit from Atak with applique resin panels as well as several replacement parts.
Initial construction
I skipped around during construction to incoporate all the alterations and additions. Applying the resin Zimmerit panels required the most effort, so construction began with that step. First, I applied Zimmerit to the lower hull and added the suspension, 1, securing each resin panel with Testers Clear Part Cement & Window Maker, a quickdrying white glue. I tacked the edges down with super-glue gel. I attached Zimmerit to the superstructure, trimming as necessary. Where panels met, I secured the join with super-glue gel, then sanded it smooth. Some joins needed further blending with Squadron White putty. Next came the gun: After assembling the kit mount, I removed its tubular end as well as the slot tab on top with a razor saw, 2. I attached the resin mantlet with superglue gel. The kit mount allows the gun to elevate and replicates the weapon's limited traverse, 3.
Superstructure and hull

I replaced the base of the commander's cupola, including the periscopes, with Lion
Roar photoetched metal, 4. I mated the base with kit parts, including the hatch, and installed the commander's "rabbit ears" periscope along with the gunner's scope; I opened up the 'scopes' solid plastic faces with a pinvise, 5. After attaching the rear wall, I added its Zimmerit, enlarging the antenna-mount holes slightly for a better fit, then drilling them out and attaching them. I closed the loader's hatch and mounted a photoetched-metal spare-track rack, 6. I laid Zimmerit panels on the engine deck and used Atak raised resin engine-hatch covers in place of the kit items. Lion-Roar photoetched-metal grilles dressed the Atak air intakes. I replaced the kit-provided gun-cleaning rods with better-detailed parts left from another project, surgically adapting them to the 2x2 stowage configuration commonly found on StuGs. I assembled LionRoar's holders so the rods could be eased out for painting, 7. I glued the superstructure and joined the upper and lower hulls, clamping with rubber bands to ensure a tight fit, 8. The remaining front-hull Zimmerit was installed next, along with resin front-hull plates and an armored visor; a little putty smoothed the base of the loader's plate, 9. Turning to the main gun, I carefully dry-fit the Armorscale aluminum barrel, shaping the resin mantlet with a needle file until the barrel fit snugly without glue. The muzzle brake comprised turned-brass and photoetched-metal parts, 10 I put it together with super-glue gel, then screwed it onto the end of the barrel, 11. The rear hull received Zimmerit panels, kit exhausts, and a photoetched-metal deflector shield, 12. Details I really liked the way LionRoar handled the schurzen rails, using brass and brass rod to re-create mounting bolts. Assembly was slow and complex, with each side taking several hours'work, but the effort paid off in the added detail, 13. I cut and sanded away the molded clasps on the kit pioneer tools and replaced them with photoetched-metal parts. Because of space restrictions, I installed the ax immediately. The other tools were left removable for painting. I detailed the jack and jackblock separately and left them off for painting, too, 14. On the port side, I replaced the shovel's blade with photoetched metal, and I attached a fire extinquisher, wire cutter, and rear Notek light from my spares. I cut the barrel from the kit's rooftop MG34, drilled a 2mm deep hole in the body of the gun, and super glued in a two-part brass barrel from Armorscale. LionRoar supplied photoetched-metal sights and splinter shields, 15.
www.panzertruppen.org 6
Factory-installed engine-deck stowage racks were added on-and-off throughout StuG production. Because the Atak Zimmerit came with cutouts for it, and the kit supplied locator pads, I installed a rack from the LionRoar set. To ensure align- ment, I glued each vertical arm to the hull, then attached the frame, 16. Painting I used Model Master enamels all along, mixing my interpretations of German colors. I masked the sprocket, idler, and return roller mounts with poster putty, 17, then primed with Italian dark brown, 18. I mixed 80 percent dunkelgelb and 20 percent light gray - my personal preference for German camouflage yellow - and sprayed the
model, 19. I applied intertwined lines ofrotbrun (red-brown) (50 percent leather, 50 percent military brown) and olivgrun (olive green) (80 percent Russian armor green, 20 percent Panzer scAwarzgrauJ.To blend the camouflage and soften contrast, I misted the model with my dunkelgelb mix, holding the airbrush about 12" away from the model and making light, quick passes, 20. I painted the road wheels flat black, then airbrushed the hubs with dunkelgelb
sprayed through a circle template. Then I installed all of the running gear except the drive sprockets; I left those off to ease track installation, 21 Tracks and tools I assembled two runs of 93 links each from the Modelkasten set, 22, giving the tracks the sag I wanted. After base-coating the tracks flat black, I sprayed them Testers Metalizer non-buffing gunmetal, then dry-brushed steel, 23. Next, I applied raw umber and rust washes, and finished with dry-brushed burnt umber, 24. I had enough Modelkasten links left to add a few to the front of the superstructure,
replicating crew-added armor. I super glued eight-link runs for the loader's area as well as the driver's plate, adding variety by attaching a couple of open-guide-horn links from another Modelkasten set, 25. A five-link run was added to the spare-track rack on the rear plate. I painted the pioneer tools' metallic surfaces Metalizer gunmetal and then drybrushed steel. After painting the handles . wood brown, I dusted on burnt umber pastels to give them a weathered appearance.
Markings and weathering

I airbrushed the model with Pledge Future floor polish, then applied spare balkenkreuze decals to the rear hull and superstructure sides. Several applications of Solvaset, 30 minutes apart, settled the decals into the Zimmerit. Another coat of Future protected the decals from the forthcoming weathering.
I randomly applied small dots of raw umber artist's oils on sections of the model, blending each section with a brush damp with thinner to create a very light overall wash. Next, using a 10/0 brush and a heavier raw umber mixture, I added a pinwash to the Zimmerit's channels and raised hull details. If the wash was too heavy or "bloomed," I removed or adjusted it with the brush to correct it. I lightly dry-brushed dunkelgelb over the decals to blend the markings into the hull. I also dry-brushed the schiirzen rails' points burnt umber to simulate worn paint. Between coats of spray-can clear flat, I dry-brushed selected areas with lightened dunkelgelb using a 20/0 brush to tone down the wash. I dirtied up the running gear, lower hull, and tracks with a blend of Mig Productions dark mud and European dust weathering powders mixed with tap water. I applied the mud with a brush. After it dried, I removed excess with stiff brushes. Dragon's old StuG kit has been surpassed by more recent models, but after-market parts and a nice finish can still help it keep up.

Modelling StuG III Ausf G

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Modelling StuG III Ausf G

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Modelling Panzertruppen

Stug III Ausf G

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Superstructure and hull

Markings and weathering

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