9 CULTURE Jerusalem culture like Israels is a unique blend of Western values and Middle Eastern civilization.

n. But it is also unlike much of Israels theres a different feel in the air, a different set of priorities that are unique to this city. The people of Jerusalem hail from all over the world. At the same gathering, you are just as likely to meet a taxi driver whose family settled in Jerusalem 1000 years ago as a French doctor who arrived yesterday. The fact that the local population is such a mix of cultures, traditions, languages, history and religions means that people are much more defined by who they are than what they do for a living. This fusion of worlds of course has an impact on local cuisine Israel cuisine is some of the most varied and interesting you can find. It also leads to such typically Jerusalemite sights as Chassidim in fur hats on a summer day chatting on their cell phones and Muslim women in veils and Nikes. THE SABBATH - SHABBAT The work week, too, is uniquely Jerusalemite in some neighborhoods, shops close Thursday at sundown to mark the Muslim day of rest; in others, church bells peel on Sunday. But Jerusalem is governed mostly by the Sabbath. The Jewish Sabbath starts at sundown on Friday and ends an hour after sundown on Saturday night. Jerusalem,

10 being a holy city, starts the Sabbath earlier than anywhere else, with sirens announcing the start of the holy day 40 minutes before sunset. As the sirens fade away, a peaceful stillness descends upon the city. As a tourist in Jerusalem, you must take the Sabbath into account, not only to plan accordingly, but also for the unique experiences that it offers. During the Shabbat, public businesses, government offices and many attractions are required by municipal law to close. Some attractions that remain open require that you buy your tickets in advance, so no money changes hands on the Sabbath day. Public transportation stops an hour before sunset on Friday and resumes after the Sabbath. So what does a tourist do on Shabbat? Enjoy it! Its a day of physical rest, but of spiritual growth. On Friday night, visit the Wall, where crowds gather to pray. Dont be surprised if strangers invite you to their homes for the Shabbat meal its a tradition.

11 During Shabbat, observant Jews curtail their daily activities to focus on family and the spiritual. They do not conduct business, drive, or handle money among other restrictions. Instead, they pray, enjoy three obligatory family oriented meals, take walks and rest. Candles are lit to mark start of the Sabbath. The traditional Shabbat meals begin with blessings over wine and bread. Depending on the family tradition, this could be braided loaves of sweet egg bread, or large fried Yemenite pitas. The meals usually include fish and chicken, and conclude with singing and a prayer of thanks. (To find out more about Shabbat traditions and what to expect at such a meal, check out www.aish.com or www.chabad.org.) If youd like to make advance arrangements to spend one or more of the Shabbat meals with a local family, HERITAGE HOUSE ( 02-627-2822 between 5-10 pm) will place you for free. The Jerusalem Municipality runs FREE WALKING TOURS on Shabbat. ( 02-531-4600; Check our monthly calendar of events for updated tour destinations.) The tours are in English and last about 3 hours. Meet at Safra Square at 10 am Saturday morning. The itinerary is different each week and the tours are led by licensed tour guides. Among major attractions that are open on Shabbat: Ramparts Walk (advanced ticket purchase required), Israel Museum, Rockefeller Museum and the Jerusalem Zoo. TIPPING CUSTOMS Tipping is not as customary in Israel as in other countries, part of its egalitarian work ethic. In restaurants, however, do leave a 12% tip it isnt included in your bill. Taxis dont expect tips but its good practice to tip bellhops and housekeeping staff at hotels, and hairdressers and barbers will expect about 12% - half for the person who washes your hair, and half for the one who cut it. SAFETY Jerusalem is a low-crime city and it offers women travelers a level of safety and freedom no longer found in many other countries. Security is tight in Israel: Youll go through metal detectors and open your bags for security checks before entering many public places. Eating establishment have security guards. Organized trips are accompanied by armed guards. In short, unless youre a Hollywood celebrity, youll never have been this well-guarded in all your life.

12 Elementary precautions are the same as in most other places: Be careful of pickpockets in the shouk and crowds. Walking after dark is safe in western Jerusalem, but not in eastern Jerusalem. Suspicious objects chofetz chashud in Hebrew are a fact of Israeli life. Never leave your bag unattended anywhere in Israel. It wont be stolen it will be reported as a suspicious object and destroyed by the police bomb squad before you get back to it. Our motto is better safe than sorry. Excerpt from Introduction to Jerusalem: A Guide to the Holy City by M. Miller