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About Bhutan
he Kingdom of Bhutan, a gem in the eastern Himalayas, areas 38,394 square km. and is populated with just little above 600,000. Looking from a natural side, Bhutan is a gem in the Himalayas. Fauna and flora flourishes in great varieties as the terrain rises from southern foothills (150m above sea level) to unclimbed peaks over 7000m. Delve into the 8th century and follow the trails of Guru Padmasambhavas legendary travel through Bhutan. Legend says that he flew to the cliffs of Taktsang on the back of a tigress. Taktsang temples (Tigers Nest), built on the cliffs above the valley of Paro, is one of the highest holy Buddhist spots in the world. Anybody with a taste of Tantric form of Mahayana Buddhism will find Bhutan spiritually delightful. The Dzong builder, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, unified the country under one rule in the 17th century. He codified a comprehensive system of laws and built dzongs that nowadays serves as religious and administrative centres. Pre-Buddhist faith in Bhutan was animism and nature worship. This animist tradition protected the uniqueness of Bhutans social, cultural and ecological tradition. In the next two centuries, the nation was once again fragmented into regional fiefdoms with intermittent civil wars. At the end of the 19th century, the Trongsa governor, Penlop Ugyen Wangchuck, who then controlled the central and eastern regions, overcame all his rivals and united the nation. In 1907, Ugyen Wangchuck was unanimously enthroned as the 1st King thereby establishing a hereditary monarchy system. The Fifth King, Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuck now holds the rein. One of the most striking physical features of Bhutan is its architecture. The characteristic style and colour of every building and house in the kingdom is a distinct source of aesthetic pleasure. Patterns of rich colours adorn walls, beams, pillars and doors in traditional splendour. Art and paintings are also important aspects of Bhutanese culture and they bear testimony to the spiritual depth of Bhutanese life. The festivals are also great social and spiritual ceremonies that awe both Bhutanese and visitors. Nowhere in the Himalayas is the naturalheritage more rich and varied than in Bhutan. Because of the deep traditional reverence which the Bhutanese have for nature, the kingdom is one of the leading countries in environmental conservation. Over 70% of Bhutans land area is still under forest cover. Many parts of the country have been declared wildlife reserves, and are the natural habitats of rare species of both flora and fauna. Opened for tourism in 1974, after the coronation of the Fourth King, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, Bhutan is perhaps the worlds most exclusive tourist destination. The country still retains all the charm of the old world, and travellers experience the full glory of this ancient land as embodied in the monastic fortresses, ancient temples, monasteries and chortens which dot the countryside, prayer flags fluttering above farmhouses and on the hillsides, lush forests, rushing glacial rivers, and perhaps most important of all the warm smiles and genuine friendliness of the people. Each moment is special as one discovers a country which its people have chosen to preserve in all its magical purity.
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NG DA AM
Thimphu
THE TSH
Wangduephodrang
TANGSIBJI LANGTHEL SHINGKHAR PATALEY NANGKOR TRONG
CHALI
BA
HAA
UESU SOMBAYKHA BARA TENDU SIPSU GAKILING TSEZA METAKHA BIRU BJACHHO GELING TSIRANGTOE DUNGNA KHEBISA K ANA
DR
TSHOLING KIKHOR KHAR THANG
Mongar
LA M
Tsirang Sarpang
TSHANGKHA DOVAN DUNGLEGANG PHUENTENCHU GOSALING SEMJONG JIGMECHHOELING
A YG
RANGTHANGLING MENDEGANG
CHENGMARI DUNGTOE
UJE
DENCHHUKHA
BARDO
GONGDUE
CHAR GHARAY
Chhukha
NG
CHHIMUNG
SAMTSE
LOGCHINA GE TANA GOZHI
ING
BARSHONG
GOMDAR
Samdrup Jongkhar
MARTSALA SERTHI
SHOMPANGKHA
Pemagatshel
SHERSHONG PANGKHAR NGANGLHA UMLING N O R B U G A N G KHAR DECHENLING O R O N G
THR
Dagana
LAJAB
Zhemgang
JURMEY
WANGPHU SAMRANG
PH UE NT SH OL ING
G IN RL SA GE
TSENDAGANG
LHA MO Y Z IN GK HA
PEM ATH A
BONGO DORONA
BETENI
TRA
NG
SAMTSE
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ING
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Centre circuit
L A Y A
GASA
L U N N A N A
LINGZHI G O E N K H AT O E CHHOEKHOR S E P H U SOE GOENKHAMEY KHOMA NARO CHHUBU DANGCHU NUBI MENBI MINJAY METSHO YANGTSE
LINGMUKHA
K U R T O E
TOEWANG
K A Z H I
Lhuentse
GANGZUR TANG
BUMDELING
GOENSHARI
Trashiyangtse
KH
Dzongkhag Boundary
Punakha
TOEBISA BARP BJENA CHUMEY GANGTEY URA JAREY TSAMANG TSAKALING PHOBJIKHA DRAKTENG NAHI GASETSHOGOM RUBESA GASETSHOYOM
ang Bumth
TSENKHAR
Constituency Boundary
Gewog Boundary
Paro
KAWANG DOTENG B J I TSENTO
PH
AN
U GY
NYISHO
DOPSHARI LAMGONG HUNGREL WANGCHANG CHANG SOUTH THIMPHU THROM LUNGNYI SHABA MEWANG
KATSHO
Trongsa
MJA RA
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BIDUNG AM SH RT
PHONGME
BA
NAR ANG
KANGLUNG
Trashigang
M E R A K
LAHIRENI
LANGCHHENPHU
Centre circuit
Pelila pass (3300m) separates west and centre Bhutan. Enjoy the deep pastoral feeling as you drive into the valley of meadows where sheep and yaks graze. Bamboos that grow plenty on the hillsides are trimmed by yaks. Yaks love the tender leaves and thus dwarfed the bamboos. Bird watcher; look out for a specialty called the Wren Babbler that refuges amongst the dwarfed bamboos. In the months of AprilJune, the hillsides will greet you with multiples of rhododendrons in bloom.
The districts of Trongsa and Bumthang have been selected as Centre Circuit. Apart from the richness of culture in these two regions TCB seeks to promote Alpine Flower tours, Nomad festivals and Matsutaki festivals. You can ask for Nomad and Matsutaki festivals hand outs from TCB.
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En route to Trongsa is Chendebji Chorten, patterned on Kathmandus Swayambhunath Stupa, with eyes painted at the four cardinal points. It was built in the 18th century by Lama Shida, to cover the remains of a demon subdued at this spot.
Chendebji Chorten:
Trongsa Dzong:
Built in 1648, this dzong holds a great historical importance. It is customary for all the kings of Bhutan to be invested as Trongsa Penlop (governor) prior to ascending the throne. You will be thrilled by the massiveness of this dzong that literally covers a hill top. Another exciting thing you can do here is enjoy the two hours hike following the old Royal Route that passes through the dzong. Enjoy the legends of Trongsa as you tour the fortress or while you take this walk.
Jakar Dzong: Constructed in 1549 by the great grandfather of the first Shabdrung, the dzong was initially built as a monastery. It was upgraded in 1646, after the Shabdrung had firmly established his power. Jakar Dzong is now used as the administrative center for Bumthang valley, and also houses the regional monk body. Thangbi Gompa: If you are fond
of walking take an opportunity to Thangbi Gompa. A walk of about 30 minutes north of Kurje Lhakhang. It was founded in 1470 by H.H Shamar Rinpoche of a Buddhist lineage called Karma Kagyu. If you happen to be around here, in autumn, look out for the dates of Thangbi festival.
Jambey Lhakhang:
Ta Dzong: This
watchtower, which once guarded Trongsa Dzong from civil wars, stands on a steep slope above the town. Climb up the cobbled stairs to visit Ta Dzong which now houses a shrine dedicated to the epic hero, King Gesar of Ling. A visit to this former watchtower provides visitors with an insight of Trongsas significance in Bhutans history. Enjoy this fascinating museum that includes several personal items of the kings. A great documentary show and then spiral up to the top with a view point enclosure.
This 7th century monastery was one of 108 monasteries built to subdue evil spirits in the Himalayan region. Its present architectural appearance dates from the early 20th century. However the inner shrine with the Future Buddha is believed to be there some 1400 years ago. Jambay festival (in the late autumn) is famous for the Tercham. English speaking Bhutanese refer to this dance as the Naked Dance. Indeed some dancers appear naked!
Kurje Lhakhang: Located further along the valley, Kurje Lhakhang comprises three temples. The exciting thing here is comparing the 17th century structure on right side with the 20th century on the left (the one built by H.M. Ashi Kesang Wangmo Wangchuck, Grand-Queen Mother). These three temples are surrounded by a 108 chorten wall. Kurje is very special as the kings of Bhutan and other Royal Family members are cremated here. Tamshing Lhakhang: Take a walk
from Kurje Lhakhang to Tamshing Lhakhang. This temple was founded in 1501 by Terton Pema Lingpa, a re-incarnation of Guru Padmasambhava. There are very old religious paintings around the inner walls of the temple.
Ngang Lhakhang: Enjoy some 3 hours of valley walk, north of Thangbi, Ngang Yule (Swan Land). The temple here dates from the 15th century founded by Lama Namkha Samdup, a contemporary of Pema Lingpa. Do not miss the three day festival held here each winter, with masked dances in honor of the founder of the temple. Ura valley: Enjoy an excursion to Ura valley which will be around four hours driving back and forth. The drive is exciting as it passes through some sheep rearing farms. Serthang-la pass at 3600m above se level offers a great view of Gangkar Puensum (the highest unclimbed mountain in the Himalayas). Farmers at Ura village are enterprising and they have a community library initiated by Global READ (a NGO from the US). The highlight of Ura village is the festival that takes place in spring.
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FESTIVAL Jakar Tsechu Jambay Drup Prakar Tsechu Ugencholing Kangso Somrang Tsechu Shinkhar Rabney Tamshing Pala Thangbi mani Meto Chetpa Buli mani Nang Lhakar Domkhar Tsechu Ura Yakchoe Nimalung Tsechu Kurjee Tsechu Pedtsaling tsechu
Place Dzong Jambay temple Prakar village Tang Valley Somrang village Shingkhar village Tamshing village Thangbi village Shingkhar village Gyetsa village Nang Lhakhang village Domkhar Dzong Ura village Nimalung village Kurjee temples Pedtsaling temple
Season Autumn Autumn Autumn Autumn Autumn Autumn Autumn Autumn Winter Winter Winter Spring Spring Summer Summer Summer
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Flowers
Centre Circuits prides the rhododendron blooms. Time yourself in late April into early May to experience the best of rhododendron around Thrumshingla Pass. As for other Alpine specialities one may trek around the Pelila pass. A trek to Gangkar Puensum basecamp towards late spring will be mesmerising.
Birds
The rare Black-necked crane (Grus nigricollis) is often spotted in Geytsa valley (Bumthang). Specialities like Wren Babblers are often seen around Trongsas Pelila region. If you are in pursuit of the Himalayan Honey Guide or Beautiful Nuthatch head south of Trongsa. The Yontungla Pass between Trongsa and Bumthang is the paradise of Blood Pheasants and Parrot Bills. Best times for bird watching in the Centre Circuit are November to May. Plan day hikes to temples like Tharpaling, Pedseling or Kunzang Dra if you want to see Tragopans in the month of May.
Wildlife
Southern Trongsa is a great sanctuary for the endemic Golden Langur. Tigers have been photographed in the Trumshingla pass. There are records of Red Panda sights on the Trongsa highway. Himalayan Serow is often sighted in the lower Trongsa region. Himalayan Black Bear sights are guaranteed in the summer and autumn months. 8
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Special Festivals
Matsutake festival in Ura
What awaits you in Ura, are the wild mushrooms and the Matsutake festival. Locally known as Sangay Shamu, Matsutake mushrooms are found in abundance here. Few decades ago Japanese discovered this special mushroom in Bhutan. Hence this mushroom has become a helping hand to most farmers. Join the locals for Matsutake and other mushroom picking. The festival extends other attractions such as arts and crafts display by the villagers. Witness for yourself the local delicacies weaving around folk songs and dances. It is definitely a great opportunity to catch with some local brew such as Red Panda beer. It is an occasion to walk round the cobbled steps, peep into a traditional village home or spend a warm night by the Bhutanese hearth listening tales of old. The farmers
display freshly collected edible mushrooms along with medicinal herbs, textiles and other bamboo products. Here is a chance for you to experience hot steamy stone bath in a traditional Bhutanese style. A night in camp or a farmhouse is yet another exciting line to add in your journal. This gives you a chance to forget your ipods as the bucolic music sweep you off your feet. Be an early riser, take your binoculars and play hide and seek with the birds. For those who love nature, be the adventure yourself and go for a day hike around the Thrumshingla National Park. This adds to sighting of some endangered species. Should lady luck be on your side, you may also bump into a Bengal Tiger. Matsutake Festival of Ura valley beckons, hurry up everyone. You will have the real experience of harvesting this rare mushroom. Your personal enjoyment will trickle some income to the upland farmers of Ura. What a great contribution to Social Responsibility Philosophy.
come all to this convention of urban nomads with the real nomads.
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the tents that generates heat. Sitting around the hearth and cooking your own meal will be quite an experience. Traditional arts and crafts: Arts and crafts have played a pivotal role in the lives of the Bhutanese. At the festival witness the artisans breathing life into statues beautifully crafted onto a slate or blacksmiths forging swords out of locally produced iron. There are extensions such as a potter displaying skill of pottery, layap women weaving conical hats out of bamboos, Brokpa spindling yak hairs or artisans carving wooden bowls. Traditional games: Bhutanese still continue playing traditional games such as archery, dego, khuru, soksum and wrestling. Here at this festival we offer you an opportunity to enjoy archery played out with bamboo bows and arrows. You may even try the Bhutanese dart game called khuru, a stone-disc hurling (dego) or the Bhutanese javelin called soksum.
Nomadic cuisines: Bhutanese people love cuisines such as ones displayed at the Nomad Festival. Bumthangs noodles (Puta), the flour and the maize cuisines of Brokpas known as Bokpi and Kharang, the red rice cuisine from western Bhutan together with ema datshi -a dish prepared with chilli and cheese are some popular cuisines. Some peculiar Bhutanese cuisine such as fried liver, heart and intestines might enthral you. Display of a village folk life: Village life in rural Bhutan is still unchanged and unaffected by modernity to a large extent. People still make use of the olden ways of living. The rounded stones are still used for grinding maize, and paddy is pounded traditionally to separate the grain form the husk. Oxen still plough the fields and drinking water is carried from the water source using traditional containers of wood and bamboo. In this festival one can have a glimpse of the traditional Bhutanese folk life and get a sense of rural Bhutan.
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Treks
Explore Nabji Trail, the highlight of Centre Circuit. Located between the districts of Zhemgang and Trongsa, this trail is ideal for culture as well nature enthusiasts. This region falls in the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park- the ecological hub of the Centre Circuit. Chances of seeing the endemic Golden Langur (Trachypithecus geei) is guaranteed. Of birds you can watch the rare Rufous-necked Hornbill (Aceros nepalenis). Of culture, enjoy a visit through the villages of Monpas. Monpas are an ethnic group
considered to be one of the earlier settlers in Bhutan. This trek also introduces you to one of the very first community tourism projects in the country. You can also use parts of the old Royal Trails going through Trongsa region. Enjoy the Longtay to Trongsa Dzong trek and complete it through Kuenga Rabten palace till Wangdicholing palace in Bumthang. Most treks in Bumthang district are culturally oriented with shorter night halts but you can be adventurous by trying the northern terrain. Explore the hidden valleys around Gangkar Puensum Peak. This peak is the highest unclimbed mountains in the world.
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