ECO-PROCESSING OF TEXTILE

Name of Author:

Ms. Lopamudra Nayak

Eco processing of textiles and testing of harmful substances, Published in Nature enviroment & Pollution Technology, Dec. 2004.

ABSTRACT Textile processing namely bleaching, dyeing and printing etc. involves use of dyes, chemicals and water and it is the largest contributor to environment pollution in textile sector. This paper deals with the nonecofriendly dyes, chemicals and their harmful effect on consumers, testing of textiles to eco-standard specification, equipment and product specific requirement along with the potential substitutes for some of the harmful dyes and chemicals. Introduction: The large parts of textile products being used by consumers are subjected to various mechanical and chemical processing. This is done to improve the exterior appearance and the quality of the fabrics. Textile processing involves use of dyes, chemicals and water and it is the largest contributor to environment pollution in textile sector. It has been discovered that a number of synthetic dyestuff and chemicals being used contain certain hazardous substances which cause irreparable damage not only to the environment but also to the person of the consumer using these products. Thus, environmental protection has become a universal concern. Germany, for example, allocates the highest proportion of its income to environmental protection. Eco-standards relating to production and processing are an issue gaining momentum as an instrument of environmental policy. A textile product is eco-friendly, if it does not cause damage to health and environment and is made by following good manufacturing practices. Blue angel environmental label, introduced by Germany in 1977, provides environmental awareness guidance. More than 4000 products bear this environmental label in Germany. A market survey has revealed that 80% of households in Germany recognize these labels. Further, products bearing these labels have registered an increase of 40% in sales. This proves that these labels are important marketing instruments, which encourage the manufactures to develop environmental-friendly products. The German Ban: In Germany, it was found that symptoms of cancer occurred among workers who handled benzidine in the production of azo based dye. Due to this, several European dye manufacturing companies stopped producing and marketing azo-based dyes based on benzidine in the 1970s. Later on several tests were conducted on azo dyes and it was found that azo dyes could be spilt under certain physiological condition to form carcinogenic amine. In 15th July 1994, Germany amended two laws that were significant for textile processing industries. These were The Fourth Federal Emission Protection Ordinance, its aim being to protect the environment from effluent of Textile industry and The Ordinance of Material and Articles, its aim being to prohibits the use of azo based dyes that yield, on reduction, any of the twenty aryl amines, including benzidine and its disubstituted congeners proven or suspected to be carcinogenic. According to German Legislation Consumer Goods Ordinance, No articles of Dress (textiles, shoes, leather) and bed linen can be put in trade, if these have been colored with azo dyes that can release one of he 20 named amines. At present the list has been extended to24 amines. The ban covers various other commodity goods like leather components for furniture, seat covers, belts, costume jewellery, watch straps, frame for 2

glasses, head phones, bandages, belly belts, hygiene articles, etc. The German ban, which had been a matter of continued debate for over three years become effective on April, 1996, was on the entry of textiles and items using chemicals and dyes not found to beecofriendly. The banned amines have been classified as amines of MAK GroupIII A1 and III A2. MAK groupIII A1 (work place exposure): Carcinogenic amines: Benzidine, 4-chloro-otoluidine, 2-napthylamine and 4-aminodiphenyl. MAK groupIII A2: These materials are tested only on animals and they have proved to be carcinogenic. Various amines in this category are o-toluidine, o-dianisidine o-tolidine, 0aminoazotolune, p-chloroaniline,3,3dichlrobenzidine,2-amino-4-nitroluene,2,4-toluylene diamine. This group also includes materials that might cause health risks. Conditions that can cause reductive splitting of azo dyestuffs: i. A reductive chemical medium like reduction stripping of dyestuff. ii. The human organism as a result of the action of intestinal bacteria or azo reductase in the liver on any azo dyestuffs in the body. iii. These amines (after reduction), if chemical carcinogens, exert their effect by causing DNA damage, which leads to tumor formation. The reduction products are electrophile and are covalently bonded to the nucleic acid of DNA resulting in DNA damage and hence inducing cancer. TABLE:1 MAK Listed Amines.
SL. NO. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 List of the specified amines 4-Aminodiphenyl Benzidine 4-Chloro-o-toluidine 2-Naphthylamine o-Aminoazotoluene 5-Nitro-o-toluidine p-Chloroaniline 2,4-diaminoanisole 4,4-Methylenedianiline 3,3-Dichlorobenzidine 3,3-Dimethoxybenzidine 3,3-Dimethylbenzidine 4,4-Methylenedi-otoluidine p-cresidine 4,4-Methylenebis(2chloroaniline 4,4-Oxydianiline 4,4-Thiodianiline o-Toluidine 2,4-toluylendiamine 2,4,5-Trimethylaniline MAK MAKIII A1 MAKIII A1 MAKIII A1 MAKIII A1 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 MAKIII A2 CAS-No 92-67-1 92-87-5 95-69-2 91-59-8 97-56-3 99-55-8 106-47-8 615-05-4 101-77-9 91-94-1 119-90-4 119-93-7 838-88-0 120-71-8 101-14-4 101-80-4 139-65-1 95-53-4 95-80-7 137-17-7

The European Union Ban: Following the introduction in 1994 of the German Consumer Goods Ordinance that restricted the use of certain azo dyes in consumer goods, several other European union(EU) member states introduced similar but different regulations. In the interest of 3

transparency and maintenance of the single market, the European Parliament accepted the 19th Amendment of the Council Directive 76/769/EEC relating to restriction on the marketing and use of azo colorants. The EU directive was published in September 2002 and all EU member states have until 11th sept. 20003 to enact appropriate legal restriction in their countries. In keeping with the green wave an environment conscious EEC issued a red list for various products that should not be used in the processing of textiles. These red list items are either been banned or being phased out. This ban may also cover various textile items including garments and carpets, if processed with such chemicals and dyestuff, which are carcinogenic and harmful. The Indian Ban: The German ban, along with the purported EU ban has initiated a number of activities in India by various organizations. It has forced the Indian Textile Industry to avoid using harmful chemicals and dyes for the processing of various textile products, not only because it may affect our exports and hence our economy, but also due to the fact that our own consumers may be affected adversely by the use of such materials. In order to protect the domestic consumers from the harmful effects of carcinogenic, allergic causing azo dyes, the central and state government has also banned the handling of azodyes with specified in the schedule to the notification [S.O292 (F), dated 20th march 1996] (prohibition of handling of azo-based dyes in the Gazette of India-extraordinary part-II section 3-subsection (ii) dated 8th April 1996. The Indian Government has already prohibited the handling of 70(azodyes), in response to new regulation by Germany and the EU . Dyestuff and chemicals banned: The following different classes of chemicals and dyestuff are under consideration for banning. i. Use of azo dyes releasing carcinogenic amines. ii. Use of dyes containing traces of heavy metals. Metals like Arsenic (As), Cadmium (Cd), Chromium (Cr), Cobalt (Co), Copper (Cu), Lead (Pb), Mercury (Hg), and Zinc (Zn) etc. are present in various amounts to different classes of dyes viz., acid, basic, direct, disperse, fibre reactive and vat dyes. iii. Formaldehyde: The contamination of free formaldehyde on the fabric is likely to be occurred due to different types of auxiliaries viz. urea formaldehyde type of resin for finishing, formaldehyde based cationic dye-fixing agents, reactive softeners, fixers/ binder in pigment printed fabric. Formaldehyde is also used as preservatives in some textile auxiliary formulations. iv. Toxic pesticides like lindane, hexachlorocyclohexane , dieldrin, aldrin, DDT, toxaphene, etc. v. Pentachlorophenol(PCP). vi. Halogen carriers. vii. Chlorine bleaching.

TABLE-2:Some of Non Eco-friendly Chemicals & Potential Substitute.

Sl . No. 1. Non Eco-friendly Chemicals Pentachlorophenol Formaldehyde Nonyl phenyl ethylene oxide adducts(APEO) Silicones & Amino-silicones and APEO Emulsifier Use Size Preservatives Alternatives Chemicals Sodium Silicofluride

2.

Detergent, Emulsifier

Fatty alcohol ethylene oxide adduct Anionic/ Cationic/ Nonionic Softeners Wax emulsion Hydrogen Peroxide

3.

Softening, Water repelling

4.

Bleaching Powder Sodium Hypo chlorite Sodium Silicate Phosphorous based Compound Dichlorobenzene Trichlorobenzene Kerosene( as emulsion thickener) Formaldehyde

Cotton Bleaching

5.

Hydrogen Peroxide Stabilisers

Nitrogen Stabiliser

Carriers in Polyester Dying Pigment Printing

Butyl benzoate Benzoic Acid Water-based thickener

7.

8.

*Crease resisting of Cotton & its blends

Polycarboxylic Acid Non- Formaldehyde Cross-linking agent Non- Formaldehyde Based products -

*Dye fixing for Direct & Reactive Dying *Dispersing Agent for Disperse dying & Vat dyeing *Reactive softener (Methylol Stearamide type) 9. Sodium Dichromate Vat dyeing

Hydrogen Peroxide

TABLE-3:Prohibited Azo Dyes/Pigments & Safer Alternatives.

Prohibited dyes/pigment Acid Orange 45 Acid Red 4 Acid Red 5 Acid Red 24 Acid Red 26 Acid Red 115 Acid Violet 49 Acid Violet 12 Acid Black 94 Direct Yellow 48 Direct Orange 8 Direct Red 2 Direct Red 10 Direct Red 24 Direct Red 46 Direct Red 62 Direct Violet 1 Direct Brown 2 Direct Black 29 Disperse Yellow7 Disperse Blue1 Disperse Red151 Pigment Orange50 Pigment Yellow12 Pigment Yellow 63 Pigment Yellow126 Pigment Yellow176 Pigment Yellow114 Pigment Red39 C I Number 22195 14710 14905 16140 16150 27200 42640 18075 30336 23660 22130 23900 22145 29185 23050 29175 22570 22311 22580 26090 64500 26130 20170 21090 21091 21101 21103 21092 21080 Safer alternatives Acid Orange 19 Acid Red 157 Acid Red 102 Acid Red 191 Acid Red Acid Red 37 Acid Violet 72 Acid Violet 13 Acid Black 24 Direct Yellow 15 Direct Orange 102 Direct Red 81 Direct Red 120 Direct Red 23 Direct Red 31 Direct Red 4 Direct Violet 66 Direct Brown 112 Direct Black 51 Disperse Yellow26 Disperse blue34 Disperse Red334 Pigment Orange 38 Pigment Yellow 147 Pigment Yellow 148 Pigment Yellow5 Pigment Yellow101 Pigment Yellow10 Pigment Red87 29156 28160 25275 29160 29100 29165 29120 29166 27720 10348 61510 12225 12367 60645 50600 11660 48052 12710 73310 C I Number 14690 17990 14730 17900 24785 17045 42665 16640 26370

Testing of textile to Eco-standard specification: Eco-Standards are now gaining ground as an instrument of environment policy in most of the industrialised countries of the developed and developing world. Responding to this new challenge Indian Textile industry should set up full fledged Eco-testing Laboratories. The equipments and the test methods employed for evaluating the banned and red-listed chemicals in textiles should conform to the established international standards and requirements. MAJOR ANALYTICAL INSTRUMENTS: Gas Chromatograph with ECD,FID and NPD detector systems. High Performance Liquid Chromatograph (HPLC) Gas Chromatograph with Mass Spectrometer(GC-MS) Total Organic Carbon Analyser(TOC) UV-VIS Recording Spectrometer Atomic Absorption Spectrometer(AAS) High Performance Thin Layer Chromatograph(HPTLC) TABLE-4:
Banned Amines

ECO-PARAMETERS TESTING:
Qualitative and quantitative analysis of the extract through HPTLC, GCMS and HPLC Analysis of the extract through Atomic Absorption Spectrometer using Flame and Hydride generator systems as per German DIN Standard Spectroscopic Method according to Japanese Law 112/1973,BS 6806, AATCC112 Detection and quantification of PCP in the solvent extract after suitable cleanup through Gas Chromatograph with ECD or MSD Analysis of the extract using Gas Chromatograph confirmation may be done by GC/MS analysis. with ECD. Further

Toxic Heavy Metals

Formaldehyde

PCP

Pesticide

Halogen Carrier Effluent Analysis

Analysis of the extract using Gas Chromatograph with FID Estimation of total organic carbon content using TOC

Testing of banned amines: The trace level of these chemicals prescribed in the eco-standards, present in textiles may be as low as 0.1mg/Kg i.e. 100ppb or more. Consequently, the protocols used for the preparation prior to testing by sophisticated instruments are crucial in maintaining the sensitivity. Unless extreme care is taken, the concentration of impurities will be amplified at each concentration step as the solvent is evaporated. Testing Procedure: The prohibited dyes are identified indirectly by reductively splitting any azo groups present and identifying the amines formed. Identification of one of the listed amines suggests the presence of prohibited azo dyes. There is distinction between qualitative analysis (for which thin layer chromatography(TLC),gas capillary chromatography, high 7

pressure liquid chromatography(HPLC), or capillary electrophoresis can be used and quantitative analysis(which must be carried out by the most precise method HPLC and a diode array detector). Main steps of the testing method: Take1g of dyed textile specimen and treat the fabric with boiling water for 5-10 minutes and the dye will strip out of fabric. If the dyes does not strip out of the fabric, treat the fabric with 50/50 DMF/water mixture at 80-900c For 10-15 minutes. Most of the dye get stripped from the fabric. Reduction step: Treat the sample with 3ml of aq. Sodium dithionite in 17ml of 0.06 molar citrate-buffered solution. The sample is stored for 30 minutes at 700c for complete reduction of dye from the sample. On completion of reduction, extract(solid phase) with tert-butylmethy-lether(80ml). Gently concentrate in a rotary evaporator. Dissolve the solvent free residue with 2ml of methanol. The extract is analysed for banned amines using one of the following methods. Qualitative analysis by TLC, HPLC, Gas Chromatogrphy(GC) and quantitative analysis by HPCL with diode array detector(DAD). Prepare qualitative results by at least two independent chromatography separation techniques. There are many methods available for testing arly amines. They are as follows: Gas Chromatography: This method has two techniques as follows. (a) Internal standard: In this method , it is important that all the samples and standards be spiked with the fixed amount of a substance called internal standard. Then, chromatograms for each concentration level of the known standards are run with the peak areas for both the standards and internal standard. Then the ratio of peak area of each compound divided by the peak area for the internal standard is calculated . The ratio is plotted against the known concentrations of each compound. (b) External Standards: The method involves the use of area under different standards. 1. Gas Chromatography coupled with mass spectra (GC-MS) : In this method, most of the aryl amines are determined quantitatively by employing GC Coupled with mass spectra. The principle involves the reaction of amines with acids or anhydrides so as to convert them into amides, which are further, analysed first with GC, with an Electron Capture detector(ECD) and then followed by their molecular weight determination by mass spectra. 2. Chromatography: This method can be carried in two ways, as follows: i. TLC Method: The method is very rapid, simple and inexpensive. It is used for the identification of dyes and assessment of their purity. Separation is usually carried out by silica gel which acts as an adsorbent. It can also be achieved by stationary phase like cellulose powder and alumina. When water is absent the separation is considered to be one of selective absorption of the components in the mixture like solid-liquid chromatography. The mechanism is seen as a partition between the effluent and adsorbed water when water is present. It represents liquid-liquid chromatography. The results obtained by this technique are not so accurate when the amine concentration is in ppm or ppb levels. 8

ii. HPLC : In this method , the retention time of a component in a chromatogram is compared to that of a standard substance under same experimental conditions. If the results are identified, then the two substances are identical. The principle involves the procurement of an amine and then it is dissolved in a suitable solvent. It is then analysed and its Rf values are calculated. This Rf values are kept as reference and using this information, the unknown amines are identified. The chromatogram is quantified by measuring its peak height or peak area. Hence, proportionality is established between height or area in the chromatogram and concentration of the respective amine. The proportionality is further determined by injecting known concentration of sample and measuring the peak of area. Further, a calibration curve is obtained by plotting peak area or height versus concentration and from the curve the concentration of amines is found out. iii. UV-VIS SPECTROPHOTOMETER: In this method the amines are detected quantitatively by reacting them with certain colour forming reagents. Wave length, maxima and molar absorbance valves are taken into account. The method is rapid and less time consuming. Further, it is also observed under German ban that the carcinogenic amines must be estimated by means of at least two different methods in order to avoid any possible misinterpretation caused by interfering substances. If any of the banned amine is present, its qualification may be done using HPLC with DAD. iv. Fourier Transform-Infrared Spectrophotometer: In this method, spectral analysis of various dyestuffs and dye intermediates are used by instrument both qualitative and quantitative. Carcinogenic substances like aryl amines can be estimated on their extraction from dyed substrate or waste water using the instrument. The best example of this method is the estimation of 2-napthylamine benzidine. v. Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Spectrophotometer: In this method spectral diagnosis of various chemical and dyes are made. Complete spectrum analysis is only possible when Fourier Transform-Infrared data is related to the NMR spectral data. Testing of harmful and heavy metals: The concentration of extractable harmful metals on the textile is limited, which does not mean the total amounts of metals on the fibers when dyed with metal complex dyes, but rather the amount of metals, which can be extracted with artificial saliva or perspiration solutions. The extract is then analysed by using either Atomic Absorption Spectrometer with a flame or graphite furnace or inductively coupled Plasma Emission Spectrometer. In Atomic Absorption Spectrometer, the extract is introduced into the flame or graphite furnace. Due to very high temperature in the flame or the furnace chemical bonds of the sample introduced are broken and it is completely atomized. Radiations, which are emitted by a hollow cathode lamp, are made to pass through the vapour layers of atoms. The cathode is coated with the metal, which is to be analysed. The detector further measures the decrease in the light intensity of radiations, which is emitted by the lamp, which is a measure of the quantity of the tested metal. Testing of Formaldehyde: 9

There are three different methods for testing formaldehyde content: 1. Japanese Test Method as per Law112: This method involves extraction of free formaldehyde under standard conditions followed by calorimetric estimation of extracted formaldehyde on a UV-Visual Spectrometer. First formaldehyde is extracted from the fabric at 400c and then it is made to react with acetyl acetone. The extract is cooled and its extinction is measured at 412nm using UV-Visual spectrometer. The quantity of formaldehyde present is determined. 2. BS6806 : this method involves the use of chromotropic acid, which is used for colour development, and absorption is measured at 585nm using UV-visual spectrometer. 3. AATCC METHOD 112-1993 : The formaldehyde evolved from textiles under the accelerated conditions is determined by this method. The method is suitable for textile samples, which when extracted as per Japanese law 112, give a coloured solution. In this method also, the absorbency of the extract is measured at 412nm. In Japanese test method, the lowest value is 20ppm, which is considered to be the detection limit for this test method and required for baby wear. The medium value is 75ppm and is generally required for clothing that is worn on the skin like underwear, shirts, blouses and stockings. The limit for outerwear apparel is 300ppm. TESTING OF PENTRACHLOROPHENOL: The test sample is extracted with methanol in a soxhlet extraction unit. The extract is then subjected to series of clean-up procedure so as to eliminate the contaminants, which are further co-extracted from the sample. It is then acetylated with acetic acid anhydride. The acetylated phenols in the extract are then separated by the capillary column in the gas chromatography. They are detected and quantified by electron capture detector (ECD). The detection level achieved by HPLC and GC/ECD for PCP is ng and pg level. TESTING OF PESTICIDES: The sample is first extracted with a mixture of solvent. The residue is cleaned up over gel permeation chromatography (GPC) in order to eliminate interfering matrix compounds of higher molecular weight. It is then analysed by means of GC using ECD. Further conformation may be obtained by GC/MS analysis.

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TABLE-5: Textile Testing Services Provided by Textile Committee.

ECOPARAMETERS Sl. No. 1. Test Parameters Banned amines(Azo free) Instrument GC-MS HPTCL HPCL HPLC GC-ECD HPLC GC-ECD UV-VIS Test Method As per German Regulations

2. 3. 4.

Pesticides PentaChloro Phenol Formaldehyde

Textile Committee Method Textile Committee Method BS 6806(part-1)for total formaldehyde Japanese law 112-1973(260) for free formaldehyde BS6806(part-2)for Released formaldehyde BS6806(part-3)for Released formaldehyde AATCC112 for Released formaldehyde

5.

Traces of heavy metals

6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

BOD COD TOC Separation& identification of chemicals Detection & estimation of effluent parameters like phenol, nitrite, sulphides, sulphite etc.

AAS Spectroquant Photometer BOD Monitor COD Monitor TOC Analyser HPTLC GC-FID UV-VIS Spectroquant Photometer

AAS Method Spectroquant Method IS 2488 & 3025/ Textile Committee Method IS 2488 & 3025/ Textile Committee Method TOC Method Textile Committee Method IS 3025/ APHA/ Textile Committee Method/Spectroquant Method

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ECOMARK CRITERIA FOR TEXTILES (The Gazette of India, Extraordinary, Part II-Section 3(i), No. 322, Oct. 8, 1996) TABLE-6: GENERAL REQUIREMENTS :
1.1 1.2 All the textile products manufactured shall meet relevant standards of Bureau of Indian Standards. The product manufacturer must produce the consent clearance as per the provisions of Water (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Act 1974 and Air (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Act 1981, Water (Prevention and Control of Pollution) Cess Act, 1977 respectively, along with the authorisation, if required under Environment (Protection) Act, 1986 and the rules made there under to BIS while applying for Ecomark. Additionally, the manufacturer shall produce documentary evidence on compliance of the provisions related to noise level and occupational health under the provisions of Factories Act, 1948 and Rules made there under. The product packaging may display in brief the criteria based on which the product has been labeled environment friendly. The material used for product packaging shall be reusable or made from recyclable or biodegradable materials. Fatty alcohol based non-ionic as emulsifier should be sued wherever required. Polyhalogenated based phenolic fire retardants shall not be used.

1.3

1.4

1.5 1.6

TABLE-7: Product Specific Requirements. A. S. No. COTTON, WOOL, MAN-MADE FIBRE & BLENDS Parameters Max. limit, mg/kg (ppm) Baby Clothing 1. 2. Free & Releasable Formaldehyde Extractable artificial Heavy Metals Mercury Chromium III Chromium VI Sum Parameters (as lead) Pentachlorophenol (PCP) Volatile Hydrocarbons (non-halogens) Volatile Halogenated Organics Pesticides (Sum Parameter) Banned Pesticides pH of aqueous extract Coupled Amines released from Azodyes (Sum parameters) sweat/salvia 20 0.1 Close to Skin Outer Fabrics 300 0.1

75 0.1

3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.

0.1 Nil 10.0 0.5 150 200 1.0 Nil 4.0-7.5 50

0.1 Nil Below detectable limit 10.0 0.5 (Detectable limit using GC.MS) 150 200 1.0
Nil (Below detectable limit)

0.1 Nil 10.0 0.5 150 200 1.0 Nil 4.0-7.5 50

4.0-7.5 50(Detectable limit using GC-MS)

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B.

JUTE AND JUTE PRODUCTS

Sl . No.

Parameters

Max. limit, mg/kg. Home Textiles & Clothing Hessians &Stockings

1.

Free and Releasable Formaldehyde Close to skin Outer Fabrics 75 300 NA NA

2.

Extractable artificial sweat/salvia Heavy Metals Mercury Chromium III Chromium VI 0.1 0.1 Nil(Below detectable limit) 10.0 NA 2% 1.0 Nil(Below detectable limit) 6.0-7.0 50 NA NA NA

Sum parameters(as lead) 3. 4. 5. Non-halogenated Hydrocarbon Fatty esters based oil Pesticides (Sum Parameter) Banned Pesticides

NA 3% NA 1.0 Nil

6. 7.

PH of aqueous extract Coupled amines released from Azo-dyes (Sum parameters)

6.0-7.0 50(Detectable limit using GC-MS)

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C. S. No.

SILK AND SILK PRODUCTS Parameters Max. limit, mg/kg (ppm)

Baby Clothing 1 1. 2. 2 Free & Releasable Formaldehyde Extractable artificial Heavy Metals Mercury Chromium III Chromium VI sweat/salvia 3 20 0.1

Close to Skin

Outer Fabrics

4 75 0.1

5 300 0.1

0.1 Nil

0.1 Nil (Below detectable limit) 10.0 0.5 (Detectable limit using GC.MS) 150 1.0 Nil (Below limit) 4.0-7.5 50 (Detectable limit using GC-MS)

0.1 Nil

Sum Parameters (as lead) 3. Pentachlorophenol (PCP)

10.0 0.5

10.0 0.5

4. 5.

Volatile Hydrocarbons (non-halogens) Pesticides (Sum Parameter) Banned Pesticides

150 1.0 Nil

150 1.0 Nil detectable

6. 7.

pH of aqueous extract Coupled Amines released from Azodyes (Sum parameters)

4.0-7.5 50

4.0-7.5 50

N.B.- The methods of tests for Eco-parameters are being developed by BIS and Textiles Committee.

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Conclusion: The environmental protection measures for the textile sector should follow a systematic approach towards clean production starting from cultivation and harvesting of natural fibers, manufacture of regenerated and synthetic fibres, spinning of yarn, weaving of fabrics, dyeing and finishing of the fabric, manufacture of garments, packaging the products, usage of cloth and its care and recycling or disposal of waste. The principal business groups affected by eco-standards in India includei. Garment manufacturer and exporters. ii. Organized sector comprising spinning and weaving mills. iii. Decentralized sector carrying out wet processing & dyeing. For ensuring the manufacture and export of eco-friendly textiles, the following services should be made available, particularly to the decentralized sector: Information about the eco-standards. Qualified scientific and technical personnel . Established standard methods adopted for testing of eco-parameters . Eco-quality control. References: 1. Chattopadhay,D.P. and Kumar,V.Aug 2001. The Indian Textile Journal, 41-44. 2. Sayed,v., Pratap,M.R. and Rane,Y.N.,Dec 2002. The Indian Textile Journal, 2225. 3. Book by Textile Committee,1993. The Textile Consumers Hand Book, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, 92-99. 4. Booklet Guidance by Textile Committee,2002.Textile Testing Services, Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, 20.

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