A JOURNEY ALBANIA, OTHER PROVINCES TURKEY IN EUROPE AND ASIA CONSTANTINOPLE, -DURING TBE YEARS 1809 anp 4810. BY J. C. HOBHOUSE. | — . 1x TWO VOLUMES. i VOL. H. —_— * : PHILADELPHIA: 7 PUBLISHED BY M. CAREY AND G0N. © March 8, 1817.: G4 7 ma PN ST AO TO TOCSY TAIN LULL N eT CAT 4 ah | GoogleCONTENTS OF VOLUME SECOND. : 7 s § i LETTER XXXHH. ‘The Literature of the Modera Greeks —Their Share in the Revival of Literature in the West.—The Romaic Pronunciation.— The Ro- maic, or Modern Greck—its Date and Origin inquired into. —Latter Greek Writers.—Present state of Learning in Greece, &c. racx 9 LETTER XXXIV. Patriotism of the Greeks.—Their ardent De: of Emancipation — ‘War Song.—The Object of their Wishes.—Atiachment to B —Views directed towards @rance.—Their Notiggs of England. Chance of Emancipation.—Importance of their Siine.—Short Re- marks on the Political Conduct of the Eaglish Levant, 45 LETTER XXXV. Departure from Athens.—Passage to Smyrna.—Entrance into the Gulf of Smyrna.—The Promontory Melzna.—The Saath Side of the Gulf—Clazomene.—Sangiak-Bornou.—The Shoals ifthe Gulf cax ed by the Hermus.—Arrivsl at Smyrna. —Description of ‘hp City. ‘The Frank Quarter.—The Frank Society —The Consuls M the Le. vant.—The Greeks of Smyrna—The Armenians and Jews.—The Buildings.—The Burying-Grounds.—The Castle—The Shut-Port. —The Hospital —Description ofan Idiot.—The Eaglish Hospital, 64 ‘ LeT@aR XXXVI . The Mussclim’s Summer Rgsidence—Fruits.—Sherbets—Fich— ‘Meate.—The Inner Bay—The Flat near Smyrna.—Game of the Djerid—Horses of the Turks.—The Meles.—Cansvan Bridge.— Homer’s Cave—The Site of the Eolian Smyrna—The Road to Bournabat—that Village described—The Storks.—The Village of Boudjah.—The Plague—The Climate —Cranes —Qgameleons. —Liz: . - . LETTER X¥%XVII. e A Journey to BpHesus—ThaBoute—The Han at Tourbali—A Der- vish.—Metropolis.—The fee Shed near Osebanér.—Turcomans’iv : ‘Tents.—The Plain of the Cayster—The Ferry Arrival at Ajasaluk. ‘—The Han—The Ruins.—Desolation of this Spot—The st and Bemains of Ephesus—The Temple of Diana—Return to -Smyma, acc eee . 7 4 LETTER XXXVIU. . Departure ftom Sm: —The Coast of Asia—Cape Baba—Yughlan Bornou.—The Vale of Nesrah-Keui—Liman-Tepe —Cape of Troas.— VM of Ghicle—Stambgu Douk —Koum Bornou.—Land in Tene- dos.—The Port—The Town.—The Castle.—The Wine.—Import- ance of the Island.—Visitto the Ruins of Alexandria —Gra- nite CannogBalls.—Dilapidation of Troas.—The Sepulchre called Sarcophagas.—The Baths.—Effects of the late’ Earthquake—Site of the town.—Hot Baths of Lidgah Hammam.—Port of Troas.— Gountry near Troas.—Coajectures of Travellers, 12 LETTER XXXIx. Frigate anchors off Sigéum.—The Troad of Strabo.—Ilium.—Its His- tory.—Not Troy—nor on the Site of z.—No Vestiges of Troy ever seen.—Modern Travellers—No pretended Discovery of the Site until the time of Le Chevalier.—Dtscription of the Coast from Stamboul Douk ‘to Cape Janissary.—Yeni-Keui—Beshik-Tepe— Elles-Bournou-—Mouth of the Dardanelles.—Ancient Geography of the Coast—Amnis Navigabilis of Pliny—Sigean Promontory. — Giaur-Keui.—Sigean Marbles —Sigéum.—Eléus—Elles Baba-Tepe. The Protesiléom.—Koum-Kale.—Mouth of the Mendgre’ River. — The Thymbrek River —In Tepe Gheulu.—Valley of Thymbrek-Dere. —Marshes of the Plain—Rivulet of Botrnabashi—Udjek-Tepe— Bournabashi,—Course of the Mendere.—Callifatli Village and Brook. —Banks of the Mendere, - 198 LETTER XL. Barrows.—Short Accaunt of those ancient Mounts.—Probably not all of them actual Sepulchres.—Barrows of Celtic or Scythian Ori- gin—as well in Phrygia Britain.—The Phgygian Barrows ap- riated by the Greeks—Barrow-Burial adopted by the Greeks, Bit noe prevalent in the later periods of their History.—The pre. sent Barrows of the Troad.—Liman#epe, Stamboul-Douk, Bes! Tepe, Udjek-Tepe, &c, not mentioned :n Strabo.—Supposed Tomb of Achilles. —account of its Excavation by De Choiseul Gouffier — Absolute uncertainty respecting the real Monument.—Arbitrary adoption of Names for the other Barrows.—In-Tepe possibly the 14 ROW hate Promontory, . : LETTER XLI. ° . ‘The supposed Port of Agamemnon’s Fleet—The Navel Station of the Greeks.—The Mouth of the ScarggAder,—The Site of lium.—-. = 4 ve The Craflggnce of the Simois and Scamander not precisely known. —Strei jing into the Mendere —The Thymbrek.—The Water of Callifatli and Atche-Keni, and the Bournabashi Rivulet.—Mr. Be Chevalier’s Pseudo Xanthus.—The Identity of the Mendere sad the Scamander of Strabo—The ancient Confluence of the Thym- brius and Scamander—The Thymbrek not corresponding with the former, but sngpsring better to the Simois.—Uncertainty renpect~ ing that River.—Palaio-Callifatli, possibly the Position of Tium—, , Site of the liéan Village—Not at Hallil-Elly, but perkips at or near Tchiblak.—Remains on a neighbouring Mount.—The Calli- Colone of Strabo.—The Vale and Brook of Atche-Keui—The ir conjectured to be the River Thymbrius.—The Erineus, the Tomb of Asyetes, Batieia, the Tomb of Ilus, sot now to be discovered. Udjek-Tépe not the Tomb of Asyetes, as described by Strabo.— Note on the Homeric Thrésmos.—Bournabashi.—Tepid Sources of the Boursabashi Rivulet—Errors respecting them.—Balli-Dahi— The of Mr. Le Chevalier.—Unfounded Conjectures re- specting the Temb of Hector, and the Remains on Balli-Dahi, 169 LETTER XLII. ‘The District of the Trosd.—Ene—Eski-Scupthu.—Bairam-itche.— Kas. 1, the Cotylus of Ida.—Argument against the identity of that mit with the Hotfleric Gi inst that of Rhetéaum and Sigéum with the Promonto1 ing the Gre. cian Camp, mentioned in the Hiad.—The Au of Virgil quot- ed.—The Homeric Troy in front of Tenedos.—The Geographical Plain of Troy probably not that of the Iliad.—The Homeric Land- marks invenced by the Greeks after the Age of the Poet—No in- ference to be drawn from Casual Resemblances between the De- scriptions of them and the actual Landscape neat thaganks of the ‘Mendere.—The. endeavours of Writers to adjust th’ Poetical to the present Positions, entirely unsuccessful—Mr. Pepe’s Mup, and. the unaccountable Remarks upon it by Mr. Le Chevalier ~@enclu- sion of Observations on the Troad, with an Enquiry into the Limits of the ancient Hellespont, - 188 LETTER. XLII. The Frigate leaves Cape Jandesary—Sails into the Mouth off the Straits.—The Portof Eleus.—Cape BerbieriggAn English Country- House in the Chersonese.—Attempt to pas#the Durdanelles—An- chor in the Bay below Chanak-Kalessi—The old Castles of Rou- melia and Natolia—The Town of the Dardanelles.—A remarkable Superstition.—Nagara-Bornou.—the Bridge of Xerxes—Abydus and Sestos.—Swimming across the Hellespont —The Curgent —Tite Frigate passes the Dardanelles—The Passage of tHe Engligh. Fleet in 1807—AK-Bashi Liman.—Zemenic.—The Practius and Percotas.—Egos-Potamos.—Note on the Meteoric Stone —Lampsa- cus,—Gallipoli—he Island of Marmora.—Approach to Constan- tinople.—Anchor under the Walls, : - - 212 “ft 4Ld aa LETTER XLIv. Difficulty of obtaining Information concerning the Turks, even in Constentinople.—Separation of the City and the Suburbs—Foreign Missions at Pera—Dvparture from the Frigate—Land at Tophana. —Astent to Pera.—I The Hotel —City Watchmen —Police of Pera—The Custom of parading the Streets imcognito—Palaces of Ambasadors—Inglese Sarai—The Armenian Cemetery —The Amusements there—Customs called Oriental—in great measure those of the Ancient World.—Seclusion and Treatment of Women. ACoincidence of Turkish Manners with those of the Byzantine Greeks.—Principal Difference between Ancient and Modern Man- ners.—State of Turkish Women.—Female Slaves, or Odalisques, of the Impatial Harem, - - ES 230 LETTER XLV. The Valley of Sweet Waters.—The Plain of the Barbysses—The ‘Woods and Village of Belgrade —Road to Buyuk-dere.—The Thra- cian Banks of the Bosphorus.—The Town and Meadow of Buyuk- dere —The European Side of the Canal to Fanaraki—The Cyanean Isles, and Ancient Altar—Phe Asiatic Shores of the Bosphorus.— ‘The New Castles.—The Hieron.—Giant’s Mountain—The Shore to Scutari—Bourgaloue.—Fanar-Baktthessi—Kaddi-Keui on the Site of Chalcedon.—Kis-Kalesi, or Leander’s Tower, : 258 LETTER XLVI. Gualata—Tho Tabagies, or Wine-houses —Yamekis, or Dancing Boys. —The Tower of Anastatius—Conflagrations.—The Size of Conatan- tinople.—PopulationJows.—Armenians, - + TB LETTER XLVII. ‘Térs-Hane—The Harbour and Docks—Visit to the Capudan-Pasha at Divan-Hane.—Executions.—Visit to the Ters-Hane-Emini—The Sultan’s Cypher. —Russian Prisoners.—Visit to the Capudan-Pasha’s Ship, the Sultan Selim —The Turkish Navy.—Martial Music— Gratitude of the Turks—and othér amiable Traits of thelr Charac- ter.—A Notice of some Points rel: to the Mahometan Religion, and to its jterfiThe Mevlevi and Cadri—The Turning and Howling Dervishes, fi Z : 292 LETTER XLVI. Whcursion to Constantinople.—The Wall on the Land Side of the City —The Miracle of Baloucli—The Seven Towers.—The Coffee- Houses near Yeni-Kapo —The Meddahs, of Tale-Tellers— Teriakis, or Opium-Eaters.—-Koum-Kapoussi—Kebab —-Bulik- Hane—Execution of Viziers.—The Kiasks under the Walls—Bat- tery and Boat-Houses of the Seragtio, : - 319