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October 2018 - Issue 60
The Rake
The modern voice of classic elegance.
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The Rake
Rally Together
The Rake
11 min citite
Letter From The Founder
The magazine you hold in your hands is 10 years old today. And the fact it exists at all is something of a minor miracle. The Rake is, on the surface, a magazine about clothes. But actually it is about far more. If you’ll bear with me and join me on
The Rake
6 min citite
Letter From The Editor
The 10-year anniversary of The Rake is a good time to reflect. This may come as a bit of a shock to anyone who has had the misfortune of spending a few minutes in my company, but, unlike my learned friend and boss, Wei Koh — who grew up with the most
The Rake
2 min citite
Contributors
Carter Berg was born and raised in New York City. The impulse to become a photographer struck during spring holiday of his final year in college, when he was working as a production assistant on a fashion shoot. He says: “I watched the photographer a
The Rake
3 min citite
Hamptons Courtship
by nick scott Becoming a creative force’s muse is no faint endorsement; it is an apportioning of huge responsibility. Being the muse to Ralph Lauren, the most successful and influential clothing designer of his era — a man who has redefined not just
The Rake
7 min citite
Design
Ralph Lauren 50th Anniversary Limited And Numbered Edition Heritage Tie Set For The Rake
by wei koh photography jake walters fashion stylist jo grzeszczuk We all fantasise about inventing a time machine that would allow us to reach through the miasma of decades past, march into a Ferrari dealership in 1963 and lay down a deposit on one o
The Rake
12 min citite
Invest
by nick scott “I have always been inspired by the rugged beauty and romance of the American west,” Ralph Lauren once remarked, and the designer’s emotional affiliation to that part of the world has more than influenced his work over the decades. Now,
The Rake
6 min citite
For One Brief Shining Moment
by stuart husband Not long ago, I was in Dallas on business. I made the requisite pilgrimage to Dealey Plaza and viewed the world’s most infamous grassy knoll, but I also discovered one of the more striking monuments among the thousands to John F. Ke
The Rake
8 min citite
Happy Birthday, Mr. President
by wei koh Sitting imperiously at 12 o’clock, burning as brightly as Prometheus’s torch, cleverer than a Border Collie with spectacles, casting aside all martini-induced temporal miasma and capable of speaking 26 different languages, is the day of th
The Rake
4 min citite
Design
Mr Porter Style Council Rake Commends: New York
by johannes huebl I love New York for many reasons. Of course, for her endless activity in every cultural form, and for her around-the-clock accessibility and unmatched diversity. But mostly it is the people’s energy that makes the city unique. There
The Rake
15 min citite
Design
Ralph Lauren: Why The World Needs Him Now More Than Ever
When it came time to celebrate the 10th anniversary of this magazine, I knew there was only one man who could be on our cover. And it didn’t bother me that he had graced the front of The Rake twice before, because each of those covers created some of
The Rake
7 min citite
GAME CHANGER: CHOPARD L.U.C 1860 X REVOLUTION & THE RAKE LIMITED EDITION 1860 FEATURING THE CALIBRE 1.96
by wei koh photography sidney teo Do you remember the scene in Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey when the monolith appears before the apes accompanied by the stirring refrains of Richard Strauss’s musical interpretation of Friedrich Nietzsche’s
The Rake
6 min citite
Hymns Of The Republic
by james medd We get him now, of course, but in September 1984, Bruce Springsteen must have felt like the most misunderstood man in America. Every musician wants a hit, but the success of his album Born in the U.S.A., then on its way to selling 15 mi
The Rake
2 min citite
The L.u.c Milestones
Let’s take a moment to look back at the staggering 22 years of Chopard L.U.C’s groundbreaking innovation: The calibre 1.96 is unveiled. The 1860 watch, a sublime 36.5mm timepiece with a massive gold dial produced by Metalem, wins Timezone and Montres
The Rake
24 min citite
Giving From The Heart
This article was first published in Issue 36, October 2014 The pioneer spirit burns vast and bright in the heart of Ralph Lauren. And because of this, he’s risen from a humble upbringing, transcended geographical boundaries, and shaped the world’s cu
The Rake
6 min citite
‘I Want To Be Seen As Someone Who Makes Good Choices. Not Someone Who Goes For A Safe Bet’
by jessica beresford photography rachell smith fashion direction jo grzeszczuk When she was 19, Hermione Corfield appeared on the cover of Tatler, not necessarily as herself but as the physical manifestation of the ‘New Sloane’, a younger generation
The Rake
11 min citite
BELL & ROSS X THE RAKE AND REVOLUTION BELLYTANKER ‘EL MIRAGE’ AND ‘DUSTY’ CHRONOGRAPHS
by wei koh photography sidney teo I have always cherished masters of self-invention, from David Bowie to Archie Leach. But what do Ziggy Stardust and the irrepressibly suave Cary Grant have in common with the watch brand Bell & Ross? They never let h
The Rake
17 min citite
David Lauren: Gallantly Streaming
by wei koh This article was first published in Issue 19, December 2011 Amusingly, David Lauren, the third and youngest child of Ralph and Ricky Lauren, learned the extent of his father’s influence on American culture only when he went to college. He
The Rake
2 min citite
Design
Bear With Us
by mr. polo bear as told to nick scott As an ursine gatecrasher into a traditionally canine zone, I may have united many readers’ eyebrows with my presence here. I’m confident, though, that my testimony will more than justify my having mounted this f
The Rake
3 min citite
Picasso Frescos For Sale… 18th Century Chateau Included
by alexander kraft In the past two decades, the term ‘luxury real estate’ has been, like almost any phrase with the prefix ‘luxury’, (ab)used beyond the limits of credibility. Just like ‘luxury menswear’ is used to describe not only the timeless clas
The Rake
8 min citite
Luxe, Calme Et Volupté
by wei koh photography jamie ferguson All clothes property of Alexander Kraft It’s always a risk sharing a vintage car with another individual for three days. Choose correctly and the experience is bucolic charm. Choose incorrectly and you are plunge
The Rake
8 min citite
Design
‘I Think What You’ve Grown Up Without Defines You Rather Than What You’ve Grown Up With’
by tom chamberlin It would be unusual for anyone involved in the making of this magazine not to have their interest piqued by the opportunity to interview the first person to make a purchase at the Anderson & Sheppard Haberdashery. That man, John Dem
The Rake
4 min citite
Popular Culture & Media Studies
Larger Than Life
by nick scott photography shu tomioka All clothes property of Mark Large Mark Large’s wardrobe space, it’s fair to say, has adopted an expansionist policy that makes the efforts of Lord Wellesley, the British governor-general of Bengal from the late
The Rake
3 min citite
A Constructive Personality
by nick scott “A camel,” goes a dictum that the corporate world militates against, “is a horse designed by a committee.” Whoever coined this bijou of anti-collectivism would get no quarrel from Howard Roark, the architect protagonist in Russian- Amer
The Rake
8 min citite
‘I’m A Solid Actor. But I Want To Be Bolder In Future, And That Involves Learning More’
by charlie thomas photography by pip fashion direction jo grzeszczuk Joe Dempsie is used to intense fanfare surrounding projects in which he’s appearing. He first encountered it when playing Chris in the acclaimed British teen comedy-drama Skins. The
The Rake
15 min citite
Strange Magic
photography steve schofield styling joe woolfe “I’d seen Benedict on British television before and really sought him out.” This is not an excerpt from a conversation that The Rake’s founder and I had about putting Benedict Cumberbatch on the cover. W
The Rake
2 min citite
Strine Be The Glory
by ralph as told to nick scott Is there any more rugged way of life than mustering and droving? That’s rounding up livestock and moving it long distances, for those Pommy readers (not to mention the sooks in Sydney and Melbourne) who haven’t been int
The Rake
13 min citite
The Art Of Making It
“Christie’s has been selected as the global auction house for the collection of David and Peggy Rockefeller. This vast collection will be offered for sale in May 2018 at our flagship auction rooms in Rockefeller Center in the heart of New York City.
The Rake
1 min citite
Design
Pocket The Difference
by charlie thomas photography kim lang Nick Ashley isn’t your average fashion designer — though to label him as such is perhaps inaccurate to begin with. Nick doesn’t do fashion. Rather, he’s spent the past 40-odd years applying his expert eye to fun
The Rake
8 min citite
Profits Of Doom
Since the financial crash of 2008, our fascination with the super-richest of the banking class — and their perceived crimes — has expanded like a trader’s algorithm. Fortunately, like the mobsters of The Sopranos or the advertising pioneers of Mad Me
The Rake
5 min citite
Letter From The Founder
By the time you’re reading this, The Rake will have embarked on the next chapter of its e-commerce evolution: watches. Why watches? Well, to begin with, everyone at The Rake, yours truly in particular, adores them. Amusingly, I was speaking to my fri
The Rake
1 min citite
Technology & Engineering
Personal Statement
by nick scott photography stéphane butticé Few people, on meeting Max Poux, would believe themselves to be in the presence of a ‘typical banker’. Eclectic in taste and impervious to the rigid conventions of his professional milieu, a besuited Poux ma
The Rake
2 min citite
Letter From The Editor
While unofficially, and perhaps unintentionally, the subject of legacy has a strong influence in this issue, perhaps part of The Rake’s raison d’être is to emphasise not only the great men and women of history and the impressions they have left on th
The Rake
4 min citite
The Lane Less Travelled
by david smiedt Diane Lane wouldn’t give you the time of day. Although her parents’ families are from Georgia — dad was a drama coach and mom a delightful slashie (centrefold/nightclub singer) — Lane, a New Yorker, has forever radiated a coolly detac
The Rake
3 min citite
Contributors
Steve Schofield is an award-winning English photographer. He has a number of portraits in the National Portrait Gallery London’s permanent collection. He recently returned to the capital after spending the past six years living in Los Angeles, where
The Rake
6 min citite
Design
Going Places
by nick scott photography baard lunde fashion stylist jo grzeszczuk The American essayist’s rather pious aphorism does not, of course, refer to the garments or accoutrements found on and about the person of globe-scouring voyagers of the age: his obs
The Rake
6 min citite
Design
Invest
by nick scott and charlie thomas In construction circles, the family name Bamford is best known for the excavation vehicles bearing the initials JCB. In horological circles, the name belongs to George Bamford, and it conjures images of a hyper-innova
The Rake
7 min citite
When To Provoke Is To Live
by stuart husband In a recent interview, Jane Birkin described her first date with Serge Gainsbourg. They met on the set of the 1969 movie Slogan; he was 40, she was 22. “He barely spoke to me and I thought him terribly arrogant and unkind,” she reca
The Rake
5 min citite
Design
Living In The Material World
by nick scott Around the time that Stephen George Holland and Frederick Sherry opened a fabric merchants at 10 Old Bond Street in 1836, specialising in woollen and silk cloths, men’s coats featured long tails at the back and were cut much higher at t
The Rake
5 min citite
Total Immersion
by nick scott In his twilight years, a second world war hero who once walked nine miles to safety with severe bullet wounds to his intestines and lungs — a man who took part in a string of Reapergoading missions as a weapons trainer and saboteur, par
The Rake
4 min citite
Desert Song: Palm Springs
by matt hranek & benedict browne It has been a while since my last visit to Palm Springs, California. In the late 1990s a group of friends would travel to this idyllic desert community from Los Angeles for the holidays. It is about 110 miles from Hol
The Rake
6 min citite
Tag Heuer X The Rake And Revolution Carrera Chronograph ‘Blue Dreamer’
by wei koh “Ciao, come stai? Tutto bene. Fammi un Martini secco, per favore! Grazie!” If you’re bellowing this through a loudspeaker to the staff at the Capri Palace as they watch in slack-jawed awe as you — still resplendent in your silk shantung di
The Rake
4 min citite
Design
From The Heart
by ben st. george In 600 B.C., when Greek settlers on the south-western coast of what we today call Italy founded a settlement in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, they called it Neapolis — the new city. It was to be new not just in location but in philo
The Rake
6 min citite
‘The Corneliani Man Is Open Minded And Curious… He Absorbs The Energy Of The World’
by benedict browne Since September 2016, Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte has played a crucial role at the helm of Corneliani. That said, he hasn’t had his hands on the tiller in the way one might assume. He’s not the creative director or the art director,
The Rake
6 min citite
Label Of Love
by nick scott In 1932, a nine-year-old boy from a devout Muslim family living in London — his father was a diplomat and legal adviser to Kemal Atatürk, founder of the Turkish republic — was taken by his elder brother, Nesuhi, to see the Duke Ellingto
The Rake
6 min citite
The Man With No Plan B
by christian barker In his late teens, Mike Horn recalls, “I was in the South African Special Forces, fighting the war in Angola”. As a soldier during the final years of the two-decades-long South African Border War, “I led a very exciting life. Alth
The Rake
3 min citite
Beauty Comes In All Colours
by jessica beresford The seductive and scantily clad women who have made the Pirelli calendar famous over the past five decades have, in the last three years, been replaced by imagery designed to develop the pin-up beyond the male gaze. The latest ca
The Rake
6 min citite
In From The Cold
by charlie thomas In the universe that occupies the collective mind of The Rake, every waking day presents an opportunity to showcase one’s latest fashions, and to display to the outside world what a cultivated individual one is — it’s one of many re
The Rake
5 min citite
Horological Crescendo
by tom chamberlin photography kim lang The more I get to know William & Son, the more profound my understanding is of their existence in luxury retail. While it is to be expected that the people behind a brand of such vibrancy and sophistication will
The Rake
6 min citite
Art Or Seduction?
by nick scott He was known as the quintessential Svengali — a word derived from George du Maurier’s 1895 novel, Trilby — in which the title character, a singer, is entranced via hypnosis by the roguish antagonist, making her unable to perform without
The Rake
3 min citite
Honour Among Thieves
by nick scott It is technically a rom-com, but A Little Romance — a 1979 basement-cinema treat, directed by George Roy Hill, of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid fame — couldn’t be more removed from any saccharine, Kleenex-sponsored Anne Hathaway ve
The Rake
5 min citite
‘We Believe That Passion Is Passed Down Through The Dna’
by ben st. george photography kim lang A truly noble fibre is luxury made manifest. There is a richness, a suppleness, an opulence to the handle of pure cashmere or vicuña that has a transportive quality, an ability to reassure and empower. When it c
The Rake
9 min citite
‘It’s A Brutal Game. You Have To Find A Way To Stay In Tune With Reality’
by charlie thomas photography david goldman fashion direction jo grzeszczuk Why settle for one profession when you can excel at three? That’s what Nathaniel Martello-White has done. He began his career as an actor, but has since become a successful p
The Rake
2 min citite
A Gene Genie
by ludoas told to nick scott There are now packs of Goldendoodles, Yorkiepoos, Cockapoos, Schnoodles and Puggles roaming the developed world’s parks and greens. Indeed, my owner spoke the other day of a Bullshihtzer she had met at a Malibu beach part
The Rake
16 min citite
Easy Company
photography kalle gustafsson fashion direction jo grzeszczuk Special thanks to the Corinthia Hotel Among the more ambiguous archetypes of the celluloid age, that of ‘leading man’ is perhaps the least defined. Far from the specific criteria of commedi
The Rake
8 min citite
Design
‘It Was A Huge Risk. It Was The One Project We’d Done That Has Kept Me Awake At Night’
by tom chamberlin As a committed cheerleader of menswear and its prosperity, the popularity of Mr Porter is rather gratifying, largely as it proves one inalienable fact that is often lost in stereotyping, which is that men have an interest in how the
The Rake
3 min citite
Letter From The Founder
“But what about our editorial integrity?” Thus was the chest-rending bleat of protestation from some of the younger journalists when it was announced that, as we move forwards, our website, our social media and, yes, even our magazine would synergist
The Rake
4 min citite
Medical
Home Fires Burning
by sarah ann macklin I grew up in Hampshire, where meal times were always a family matter. I am the youngest of three children. My parents made supper time an essential and social evening routine, when every member of the family would come together t
The Rake
3 min citite
Letter From The Editor
So often letters like this begin with some sort of anecdote — “I was sitting in a bar one day” or “I bumped into a friend of mine recently” — that inspires a fun little analogy. My life is rarely this exciting, so it is hard to do something quite as
The Rake
8 min citite
The King Of Bling
“I suppose that the greatest moment in the life of any revolutionary is when he walks through the royal palaces of the freshly deposed monarch and begins to finger his former master’s possessions,” wrote the freshly deposed King Farouk of Egypt in th
The Rake
1 min citite
One-pot Rosemary Chicken
A lighter replacement for a traditional roast dinner. Sweet potatoes are full of vitamin C, vitamin A and fibre. They also have a low glycemic index especially when boiled, which helps to control spikes in blood sugar. 350g of sweet potato, skin on
The Rake
2 min citite
Contributors
Kalle is a Swedish director and photographer. A master of the atmospheric cinematic moment, he shoots both print and motion for an advertising client list that includes Paul Smith, Gant, Johnnie Walker, Volvo, Hackett, Peroni, Rolex, H&M, Neiman Marc
The Rake
8 min citite
Paradise Found
An island named after an insect infestation is surely no one’s first idea of paradise. Yet since the 1960s, Mustique has been just that: a privately owned, reassuringly inaccessible castaway retreat for the jet set. This tiny landmass in the Caribbea
The Rake
4 min citite
The First Wet Hot American Summer
by david smiedt The 1982 film Fast Times at Ridgemont High carried the tagline ‘At Ridgemont High Only the Rules Get Busted!’ That’s pretty much all you need to know to surmise that the plot centred around barely legal Californian sex, dope dabbling,
The Rake
2 min citite
Cookbooks, Food, & Wine
Veggie Chili Con Carne
I’ve chosen to adapt this recipe to a vegetarian chili, to help increase our vegetable intake and reduce the consumption of red meat. An overconsumption of red meat has been proven to increase our risk of bowel cancer. It is also much harder to diges
The Rake
6 min citite
The Defiant One
by ed cripps The most important American film of 2017, and the worthiest successor to Moonlight’s best picture Oscar, was Get Out, a psychological horror-satire about a white woman who brings her black boyfriend home to meet her parents. It is a mast
The Rake
6 min citite
Invest
by nick scott While the hoverboard and the jet-pack have been confined to the more risible realms of sci-fi, one gravity-cheating device has not only stood the test of time but remains a technological marvel in 2018: the tourbillon, for which Abraham
The Rake
5 min citite
Design
Quadrophilia: The Eternal Appeal Of Check Patterns
by nick scott photography baard lunde fashion stylist jo grzeszczuk Among the many unsung heroes of menswear — and their number includes a range of figures, from needle-wielding artisans on Savile Row to the technical wizards who maintain giant decat
The Rake
4 min citite
Miami: The Real-life Movie Set
Asterisked items available at www.TheRake.com by matt hranek Miami Beach has been one of America’s pre-eminent resorts for almost a century. Before that it was a strip of mangroves on a small barrier island that was cleared in the 1800s to make way f
The Rake
3 min citite
Design
Two Souls, One Valstar
by benedict browne The term ‘heritage’ is employed by, and on behalf of, luxury houses fairly liberally these days. It’s understandable. Not only does it encourage trust in a brand, but we all admire objects that have authenticity and have stood the
The Rake
3 min citite
Letter From The Editor
Comfort and joy wouldn’t be the nouns we’d associate with the current tidings. To paraphrase Tiny Tim, “Will we have Christmas after all?” On the whole, by the time I reach Christmas, my mood is lifted by the melodrama of chestnuts on an open fire, S
The Rake
3 min citite
The Good Shepherd?
by anna prendergast True to the slogan printed on his wallet, Pulp Fiction’s hitman Jules Winnfield is the baddest of bad motherfuckers. He’s a foul-mouthed, hell-raising, bullet-spraying motherfucker who can quote the Bible on cue. Or that’s what yo
The Rake
2 min citite
Contributors
A former staffer at both U.K. Esquire and GQ Australia, Nick was Editorin- Chief of The Rake for three years before leaving the role to pursue a number of creative projects in the summer of 2014. His work has appeared in the FT’s How To Spend It, The
The Rake
4 min citite
Field Duty
by nick scott In his 2008 book Outliers, Malcolm Gladwell proposed that 10,000 hours of practice are required to make someone world-class in their field. It seems likely that, when it comes to playing polo, Pablo Mac Donough has clocked up that tally
The Rake
6 min citite
Invest
by nick scott Here’s one for trivia buffs: it’s distinctly possible that the backpack was invented before the wheel. At least, we know for certain that Ötzi the Iceman — whose remains were found by snow hikers in 1991 — set off across the southern Au
The Rake
3 min citite
Letter From The Founder
In October, sitting opposite Ralph Lauren in his extraordinary office, filled with photographs and mementoes of his life and creations, a thought came to my mind. Ralph Lauren is not the president of the United States. But he should be. Because he re
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