Surfer

By ZANDER MORTON This is how lugging boards abroad has played out since the beginning of surf travel: Figure out what kind of quiver to bring on your trip, stuff it into an oversized bag, haul it to the airport … and have a panic attack. “How much wi

As told to ASHTYN DOUGLAS “You have no idea what you are capable of until you challenge yourself. You are so much stronger than you think.” Sometimes girls feel like they have to prove themselves. Growing up on Kauai, I felt like the guys were especi

By ASHTYN DOUGLAS IT was just past 11 a.m. a few weeks before the start of the Hurley Pro, and a solid south swell was producing overhead sets at Lower Trestles. The air was hot and sticky and the lineup was crowded, looking like a tepid pool dotted

By JUSTIN HOUSMAN Do you have other interests besides surfing? Other life-consuming hobbies or sports, complete with their own unique cultures, charmingly peculiar vocabularies, verbal signifiers of who’s part of the in crowd and who’s not? Can you m

By MATTHEW SHAW Under the gaze of a colossal beachfront statue depicting the Hindu goddess Gajah Mina, a hulking right-hander is detonating into the Pererenan river mouth in southwest Bali. According to Hindu mythology, while the sky and the mountain

By JUSTIN HOUSMAN Look at the two fresh-faced Aussie pros in the above profile from May 1999. Danny Wills and Mick Campbell had just wrapped an astonishing year on the World Tour, streaked into the pro surf scene like meteors in 1998, shone as bright

I felt like the odd man out sitting on the boil at Rockpile, flanked on either side by a half dozen pros known for rushing the heaviest Hawaiian surf. Seeing as how I’m known for writing things like this magazine intro from the safety of my San Diego

By SEAN DOHERTY It was a week before famed Australian slab surfer Mark Mathews’ Cape Fear contest was set to run, featuring an international field of big-wave legends including Shane Dorian, Bruce Irons, Ian Walsh, Albee Layer, Jamie O’Brien and Maku