Surfer

I was talking to my dad, a longtime shaper of surfcraft, last night about a board that I really want to make—a 5'5" performance twin with an E-wing and a slightly concaved deck. It’s a board that’s been floating around the back of my mind since I hop

The act of surfing is about as musical as physical expression can be in sports. It’s rhythmic, and if you don’t have rhythm with the ocean, you won’t be able to surf—you have to have metronome in some way. I grew up playing music and when I first mov

It was a stunning day for a paddle: 75 degrees, water as green as the purest emerald, a light easterly breeze carrying the scent of pine, the ocean tossed with a gentle windswell sending ankle-high waves smacking noisily into rock stacks crowded with

For the past half century, surf entertainment has mostly consisted of magazines, films and, more recently, webcasts. But lately, a handful of surf junkies have ventured into the realm of Joe Rogan and Terry Gross, getting in front of a microphone and

The Shortboard Revolution began in 1967 when longboards reigned supreme and over the next 2 years, board lengths dropped from 10-foot tankers to 7-foot “mind machines”. Such was the era of hippies, psychedelics and anything goes. The designs that def

I can’t remember the first time I heard the word “content” used as a catchall to describe writing, photography and film, but I do remember hating it. The word feels vaguely taunting as it tries to diminish the artform it describes, as if to say, “som

It was mid-morning in the sleepy Mexican village of Barra de la Cruz and the streets were empty, save for the occasional stray dog and surfboard-toting gringo, the latter surely on their way to the same nearby pointbreak that we were heading to. Jon

Almost 30 years ago, a young Josh Mulcoy embarked on his very first surf trip to Alaska. Back then, before Instagram feeds became clogged with photos of surfers standing on snow-laden beaches, hunting waves in Alaska was practically the surfy version

It’s Friday evening and an impromptu party is in the works in the typically quiet beachside village of Playa La Saladita. Though it’s after 10 p.m., the sun only just sank below the horizon, the lack of light pushing a portion of the small-but-growin

In winter, when long-period northwest swells batter Northern California and stir Mavericks from its slumber, odds are you’ll find Bianca Valenti sitting deep in the lineup on a bright-pink 9'2", waiting for an opportunity to chase down a horrifying w