May - June 2020

AFAR

AFAR magazine - Where Travel Can Take You

AFAR2 min read
Afar
FOUNDERS GREG SULLIVAN & JOE DIAZ VP, EDITOR IN CHIEF Julia Cosgrove @juliacosgrove EXECUTIVE EDITOR Jeremy Saum @jsaum CREATIVE DIRECTOR Supriya Kalidas @supriyakalidas DIRECTOR OF DIGITAL CONTENT Laura Dannen Redman @laura_redman DIRECTOR OF PHOTOG
AFAR2 min read
Tradition With a Modern Twist
THESE DAYS I SPEND about a third of the year in hotels, traveling extensively for business and pleasure. Aside from my preference for two firm pillows, a real human being at check-in, and a classic negroni on the house cocktail list, I have some thou
AFAR2 min read
Contributors
Colleen Kinder Writer In Search of Kindness p.124 Perfect timing: “I went to Canada during the off season. Everyone kept saying if I’d come two weeks earlier more places would have been open, but I loved being there when I didn’t have to contend with
AFAR1 min read
Let AFAR Be Your Guide
Each year, we turn to you—the world’s best travelers—to tell us about the hotels, cruise lines, airlines, trips, and destinations that inspire your wanderlust. It’s that time again: The AFAR Travelers’ Choice Awards are back! Go to afar.com/travelers
AFAR1 min read
Stay Connected
AS THIS ISSUE WENT TO PRESS, the world was struggling to contain the COVID-19 virus: Air travel between the United States and most of Europe was severely restricted, major events had been canceled, and health officials were asking us to keep our dist
AFAR1 min read
All American
The United States is rich with experiences waiting to be discovered, whether on a visit beyond the landmarks in Washington, D.C. (page 36), at a museum that sheds new light on overlooked history (page 44), or on a road trip in New Mexico (pictured, a
AFAR4 min read
New Mexico Reimagined
DAY 1 Albuquerque, New Mexico’s largest city, has caught the eye of curious travelers. Mayor Tim Keller, known for his love of heavy metal, has helped attract new creative businesses—both Netflix and NBC will open production studios here in 2020—and
AFAR1 min read
Neighborhoods to Explore
The streets in this corner of northern D.C. are lined with trees and vintage row homes. Crispus Attucks Park, one of several pocket parks in the area, used to be an abandoned lot until the community transformed it into a green oasis. Locals gather at
AFAR1 min read
Hear It Live
With a movable stage and room for up to 6,000 concertgoers, the Anthem, a new 57,000-square-foot music venue in D.C.’s Wharf District, is a bigger, badder version of the city’s iconic 9:30 Club, also operated by event producer I.M.P. theanthemdc.com
AFAR1 min readCooking, Food & Wine
Where To Stay
Rooms offer views of the Anacostia River, plus minibars stocked with local snacks. At the restaurant Maialino Mare, Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group serves Roman food, including salt-baked sea bass and roasted suckling pig. From $180. tho
AFAR2 min readRegional & Ethnic
Global Fare
The Caracas native celebrates Latin cuisine at Seven Reasons, with Amazonian ingredients such as katara (a spice made from fermented ants and roots) and plenty of veggies. His fusion bowls are the star at Immigrant Food, which also provides meeting s
AFAR2 min read
Past Imperfect
Stewart Indian School Cultural Center and Museum Carson City, NV One of the uglier chapters in United States history involved the forced assimilation of American Indian children, who were taken from their families and sent to government-run boarding
AFAR10 min read
2020 Best New Hotels
Eden Rock St. Bart’s Aman Kyoto Rosewood Hong Kong Casa Maria Luigia Mt. Mulligan Lodge Labotessa Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia The Chedi Al Bait Equinox Hotel Raffles Singapore Captain Whidbey Inn Lodge at Blue Sky Rio Palena Lodge Kachi Lodge Mai
AFAR3 min readCooking, Food & Wine
This Is Not A Peach
CHIKARA MIZUKAMI WORKS with an easy concentration as he rolls a piece of what looks like white Play-Doh in his palm, gently flattening it into a thick disk. He places a mound of anko—red adzuki-bean paste—in the center of the disk and smooths the dou
AFAR4 min read
Savoring Beirut
I WAS BORN in Houston to a Lebanese father and an American mother from Texas, but we moved to Lebanon when I was a baby. I spent all of my formative years here. To escape the turmoil of the civil war (1975 to 1990), my family and I sought refuge in B
AFAR2 min readRegional & Ethnic
Where To Find Wagashi In Tokyo
Wagashi are still enjoyed at tea ceremonies, but travelers can also find them at local supermarkets, at chain stores such as Toraya, or even in department store basements. (Warning: The quality varies.) But one of the best ways to experience wagashi
AFAR4 min read
Scotland, Distilled
ON A WARM SUMMER MORNING in Speyside, Scotland, I walked along a gravel path at the base of the Conval Hills, listening for the sound of the Robbie Dhu spring. I stopped to ask for directions from a local passing by, who pointed up the nearest hill:
AFAR12 min read
Rewilding australia
After that, it’s hard to make out conversation over the noise of the twin propellers. The copilots exchange an occasional, untranslatable sentence of flight jargon. They’re so close I can’t shake the feeling I’m in an Uber; I have to resist the urge
AFAR2 min read
Essentials
Writer Emma John chose her lodgings based on their outstanding rewilding efforts. Read on to learn more about visiting these conservation-minded retreats. Set in the outback surrounding the Ikara-Flinders Ranges, the 1850s-era Arkaba Conservancy is a
AFAR9 min read
A City On The Verge
BOJAN BOČVAROV had a secret. It was almost too much for the dimpled 39-year-old to bear as he motored up a narrow road on a leafy residential hillside in central Belgrade. He could have taken my wife, Rikki, and me anywhere. Having just landed, we we
AFAR4 min readCooking, Food & Wine
The Afar Guide To Belgrade
Hidden away in a residential neighborhood, Stari Mlin isn’t easy to find. But a meal here is worth the effort. This is where Belgradians come to linger over authentic Serbian dishes—such as ćevapi, a spicy Balkan sausage, and đuveć, a vegetable stew—
AFAR13 min read
In search Of kindness
Raindrops smear down the windows of our sleeping car, pulling with them the glow of Montreal’s streetlights. Inside, we are warm and dry, entranced by the guitar strumming of a folk duo from Vancouver. We are strangers, about to know each other’s nam
AFAR3 min read
How To Do This Trip
The Via Rail Ocean train from Montreal to Halifax (or vice versa) is a 22-hour journey called “The Maritime Way,” though travelers can break up the trip by hopping off midroute. The Ocean departs three times a week (Sunday, Wednesday, Friday), and ti
AFAR1 min readRegional & Ethnic
Recipes for Understanding
I took my restaurant management team to my birth country of Israel so they could have their own stories to tell about the place that inspires our cuisine at Saba in New Orleans and Safta in Denver. Orit Levi, our guide from tour company Via Sabra, le

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