OCE421 Marine Structure Designs Lecture #6 (Short-term Wave Statistics)

Reading Material
Coastal Engineering Manual Part II
Chapter 1: pp. 59-76

Nonbreaking Design Wave

If breaking in shallow water does not limit wave height, a non-breaking wave condition exists. For non-breaking waves, the design height is selected from a statistical height distribution.

Wave Statistics
Long-term wave statistics (a few years, 20 years, etc) Fisher-Tippet II distribution, etc. Short-term wave statistics (20 minutes, 3 hours, etc.) Rayleigh (wave height) distribution etc.

Long-term vs. Short-term

a common short-term question: If we have measured the waves for 20 min and found that the significant wave height is 2 m, what is the chance that a wave of 4 m may occur? A 20-min record may have been recorded (and statistics of each record computed) every 3 hr for 10 years (about 29,000 records) and the statistics of the set of 29,000 significant wave height compiled. a common long-term question: If the mean significant wave height may be 2 m with a standard deviation of 0.75 m, what is the chance that once in 10 years the significant wave height will exceed 4 m?

Recording Period and Interval

(t) recorder on recording period 20 minutes 20 minutes recorder on

recording interval

3 hours

Wave Identification: zero-crossing technique

H3 H2 zero-upcrossing technique

H1

individual wave height H1, H2, H3, individual wave period T1 T2 T3 T1, T2, T3,

Zero-crossing Wave Height Identification

2 blue waves, 1 red wave

Matlab Code: zerocrs.m (I)

function [H,T]=zerocrs(t,eta); %----------------------------------------------------------% % function [H,T]=zerocrs(t,eta) % % Perform zerocrossing method to identify individual wave % height and wave period % % H = Wave heights of individual waves % T = Wave periods of individual waves % % H is a 1 by (number of waves) array % T is a 1 by (number of waves) array % %-----------------------------------------------------------

Matlab Code: zerocrs.m (II)

nstep=length(eta); eta1=[eta(2:nstep),0]; tem=eta.*eta1; crs_ind=find(tem<0); num_crs=length(crs_ind); % num_wave=fix(num_crs/2); % H=zeros(1,num_wave-1); % % % % a shift of eta by 1 step negative when a zero-crossing takes place index of wave elevation at zerocrossing number of zerocrossings

% number of waves % initialization, % for simplicity, drop the last wave

T=H; % for n=1:(num_wave-1), start=crs_ind(2*n-1); % starting index for the n-th wave endd=crs_ind(2*n+1); % ending index for the n-th wave peak=max(eta(start:endd)); valley=min(eta(start:endd)); H(n)=peak-valley; T(n)=t(endd)-t(start); end;

Representative Wave Heights

The 1/nth wave height, denoted as H1/n is defined as the average wave height of the highest 1/nth waves. For n=1, it represents the mean wave height, For n=3, H1/3 termed as the significant wave height, Hs. H1/10 , H1/100 and H1/250 are defined accordingly v u N u 1X Hrms is defined as: H rms = t H i2 N
i=1

if N individual wave heights are given.

Fundamental Probability Functions

Cumulative distribution function (cdf):
PH (h) = Prob[H < h] _
H = random variable h = fixed number

Probability of exceedance (poe):

QH (h) = Prob[H > h]

P +Q = 1

Probability density function (pdf):

dPH (h) pH (h) = dh PH (h) = Zh
0

pH (x)dx

Relationships among pdf/cdf/poe

1

pdf

0 .5

area
0 0 1 0 .5 1 1 .5 2 2 .5 3 3 .5 4 4 .5 5

cdf

0 .5

0 0 1 0 .5 1 1 .5 2 2 .5 3 3 .5 4 4 .5 5

poe

0 .5

0 0 0 .5 1 1 .5 2 2 .5 3 3 .5 4 4 .5 5

Theoretical Models
Wave elevation : Gaussian distribution (due to central limit theorem) Wave height : Rayleigh distribution (narrow band assumption)

Gaussian

Normal (Gaussian) Distribution

Probability density function (pdf)

1 1 x f (x) = p e xp 2 2

2) 1 <x<1

Cumulative distribution function (cdf)

2 2 1 1 v F (x) = p e xp dv 2 2 1 Zx

Rayleigh

Rayleigh Distribution
cdf

2# h F (h) = 1 e xp ;

"

h 0

F (0) = 0, F (1 ) = 1
pdf

a monotonically increasing function

2# dF (h) 2h h f (h) = f (h) = 2 e xp ; dh 2# h Q(h) = 1 F (h) = e xp ; "

"

h 0

poe

h 0

Root-Mean-Square Value
pdf

2# 2h h f (h) = 2 e xp ;

"

h 0

second moment (mean-square value)

E [H 2] =

Z1
0

substitute in

h2f (h) dh

= 2
notation for the rms of H

q =

E [H 2] = H rm s

root-mean-square (rms) value

Rayleigh Distribution in RMS Value

2# 2h h f (h) = 2 e xp ; h 0 " 2# " h # 2h 2 h f (h) = 2h e xp ; h 0 2 f (h) =H rm e xp H rm ; h 0 s 2s H rm H rm s s " 2# " h # 2 h F (h) = 1 e xp ; F (h) = 1 e xp H rm ; s H rm s " 2# " h # 2 h Q(h) = e xp ; Q(h) = e xp H rm ; s H rm s "

h 0 h 0

h 0 h 0

hrms=1; h=0:0.01:4; psd = 2*h/hrms^2 .* exp(-(h/hrms).^2); cdf = 1 - exp(-(h/hrms).^2); Matlab Display: Rayleigh subplot(211); plot(h,psd); grid; subplot(212); plot(h,cdf,'r-'); grid

pdf

cdf

Rayleigh Distribution in Mean Value

2h f (h) = 2 e xp H rm s E [H ] = H = H = 2 H rm = p s " 2# h ; H rm s h 0 p

Z1
0

H rm hf (h) dh = s 2

(drop subscript H from H for simplicity) (change of parameter)

pdf in terms of mean value

2# h h f (h) = 2 e xp ; 4 2

"

h 0

Histogram to pdf

average probability density for H