INTRODUCTION

A. Required Fiber Characteristics 1. High length to width ratio 2. Adequate strength 3. Flexibility 4. Cohesiveness

B. Yarns are classed based on fiber length and method of processing

C. Fiber Properties that influence yarn processing 1. Fiber length/length distribution 2. Fiber strength 3. Fiber fineness 4. Fiber cleanliness

SHORT STAPLE PROCESSING

A. Carded Yarns 1. Bale lay-down 2. Opening and blending line 3. Carding 4. Drawing (X 2) 5. Roving 6. Spinning 7. Winding and clearing

B. Combed Yarns 1. Bale lay-down 2. Opening and blending line 3. Carding 4. Drawing 5. Lapping 6. Combing 7. Drawing (X 2) 8. Roving 9. Spinning 10. Winding and clearing

11.

Combed fibers make

a. b. c. d. e. Softer yarns Stronger yarns More uniform yarns Finer yarns More lustrous yarns.

C. Spinning Methods 1. Ring Spinning 2. Open-End Spinning 3. Friction Spinning 4. Jet Spinning

YARN PROPERTIES
A. Yarn Size -- Two Systems 1. Direct System - This system describes the mass of a given length of material. a. Linear Density (n) is

Mass n (units) Length

b. Basic Units

tex - grams per 1000 meters denier - grams per 9000 meters dtex grams per 10,000 meters ktex gram per meter

c. A large numerical value for linear density indicates a coarse yarn.

2. Indirect System - This system

describes the length of a given mass of material. a. Yarn count (N)

Length N (units) Mass

b. Basic Units
Cotton

hanks/lb (1 cotton hank = 840 yds) Worsted hanks/lb (1 worsted hank = 560 yds) Woolen Run hanks/lb (1 woolen run hank = 1600 yds) Meters/gram (Metric count)

c. A small numerical value indicates a coarse yarn.

B. Yarn Twist 1. Twist affects a. Hand b. Absorbency c. Luster d. Flexural endurance e. Contraction f. Strength g. Abrasion resistance h. Special effects -- stretch, texture

2. Twist Density ()

a. Direct system

TM n tex
b. Indirect System

(tpm)

TM N

(tpi)

C. Yarn Strength
1.

Staple yarn strength is a function of

a. How well fibers pack together (coherence). b. How ordered or parallel the fibers lay in the yarn (obliquity.

2. Twist versus Strength

coherence curve
True curve
strength (g)

obliquity curve

x
TM

a. The twist level at which the maximum strength occurs is called the optimum twist.

b. Above the optimum twist, if the yarn breaks, failure is due to fiber breakage.
c. Below the optimum twist, yarn breakage is due to fiber slippage.

D. Staple fibers are converted to singles yarns. Singles yarns are twisted together to make plied yarns and then cord or cables.

E. Comparison of Properties Ring Spun vs Open End