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Classification of yarns
Yarn is a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments or materials in a form suitable for knitting, weaving or intertwining. Thread is a specific term for yarn used to join fabrics by the process of sewing.
Classification:
Single yarn/ Plyed yarn Spun yarns/ Continuous filament Homogenous spun/ blended yarn Simple/ Fancy yarns
When two or more single strands are combined, the yarns become a ply yarn and each strand is referred as a ply.
International Standard Organization ( ISO) have recommended the tex system as the standard yarn numbering system.
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The weight of 6000 metres of silk yarn is 12 grams. Calculate the yarn fineness in terms of tex, decitex and denier.
Worsted Count= Number of hanks of 560 yards in 1 pound Metric Count = Number of kilometre lengths in 1 kg of yarn
Yarn Twist
The fibres are twisted together by the process of spinning to produce a yarn that will withstand the rigors of weaving or knitting. Yarn twist affects the strength, lustre, abrasion resistance, hand, absorbency and flexibility of the fabric. Direction of Twist ( S or Z Twist) Cotton yarns generally have Z twist Woolen yarns generally have S twist
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TPI
Twist is measured in terms of turns per inch ( tpi) Yarns with low level of twist are softer, have more bulk. Fine yarn usually require a higher tpi than coarse yarns Twist Multiplier ( TM) = tpi/ ( Ne)1/2
Knitting yarns = 2 to 3 TM Weft yarns = 3 to 4 TM Warp yarns = 4 to 5 Tm Crepe yarns= 5 to 7 TM
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Yarn formation
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Comber
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Ring spinning
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Friction spinning: Dref m/c evolved from the work of Dr. Ernst Feher. The sliver is fed to the m/c. The fibres are separated and transported to the friction spinning rollers, where the fibre strand is twisted to form yarn.
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Intermingled yarn
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Fancy yarns
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Fancy yarns
Yarns whose appearances differ significantly from that of a simple yarn due to irregularities deliberately produced during their formation are called as Novelty or Fancy Yarns.
Fancy yarns are used to provide design interest; thus their primary markets are in apparel and decorative fabrics.
Fancy yarns
Boucle: Boucle yarns are characterized by tight loops that project from the body of the yarn at fairly regular intervals. Used in knitted sweaters, woven dresses and upholstery fabrics. Chenille: Derived from a term which means caterpillar. It refers to a special, soft, fuzzy, loft yarn with pile protruding on all sides. It is produced from woven leno fabric structure that is slit into narrow, warp wise strips to serve as yarn. Corkscrew or spiral yarn:
Loose yarn twisted on a tight yarn Two plies of different count ( fine around coarse ply)
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Fancy yarns
Crepe yarn: Are produced with high level of twist to give them liveliness. They may be single or plyed yarns. The twist in this yarn is not balanced, so the yarns have a tendency to kink and snarl. Flock yarns: Are frequently called flake yarns and are usually single yarns to which small tufts of fibre are added at intervals. The tufts are held to the yarn by twist or adhesive. Loop yarns: Loops are more predominant and less evenly spaced. Nub, knot and spot yarns: The effect yarns is wrapped around several times for special effect. Slub yarns: Produced by uneven twisting Thick and thin yarns: This yarns are produced in the form of filament yarns by varying the pressure forcing the polymer solution through the spinnerette.
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Fancy/Novelty yarns
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Bulky yarns
ASTM D-123 defines a bulk yarn as: A yarn that has been prepared in such a way as to have greater covering power or apparent volume, than that of conventional yarn of equal linear density and of the same basic material with normal twist.
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Bulk yarns
Three types of bulk yarns are: Bulky yarns Textured yarns Stretch yarns
Stretch yarns have high degree of elastic stretch and rapid recovery.
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Textured yarn
These yarns have been given greater apparent volume than conventional yarns of similar fibre count and density. The apparent increase in volume is achieved through physical, chemical or heat treatment or a combination of these
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Sewing Threads
May be textured continuous filament, staple fibre or core yarn. Properties of sewing threads:
Knot free Strength Abrasion resistance Smooth Elasticity Heat dissipation Colour fast Shrinkage resistant Must withstand hot pressing & dry cleaning Proper packaging
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Braids
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FABRIC TYPES
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Foam Laminated
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Bonded fabric
A fabric joined by a bonding process in which an outer or face fabric is joined or welded to a backing or lining ply by an adhesive agent.
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Tufted Fabric
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Laces
Lace is a fragile , fine or elaborately designed openwork fabric structure produced by manipulating a network of thread or yarn, or by the use of caustic chemicals on a base fabric.
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