Documente Academic
Documente Profesional
Documente Cultură
Brief Content:
1. Preparation of material for knitting 2. Bases of knitting technology 3. Knitted structures 4. Working and controlling systems of knitting machines 5. Yarn supply 6. Fabric take-off 7. Checking equipment 8. Machine drives 9. Knitted technical textiles
1/2
0. Introduction
Advantages of knitting:
High productivity Great variability (wide usage) Possibilities of shaping (ready-made clothes) Wasteless production
History:
Archaeology rests of knitted fabrics from 6-th century Mechanical knitting reverend William Lee 1589 invention of the first knitting machine No revolutionary inventions such as shuttleless weaving and open end spinning in knitting. Why? 1/3
1/6
Speed vy corespons with speeds of l1, l2, l3 change, is variable. Tensile force F is increased by friction.
1/7
Economical impact of preparation: the costs, caused by problems at knitting, are higher.
1/9
1/10
Multifilament without twist problems when some filament is broken (creates bunches or neps, could be kept by neighboring yarns ): Impact of twist: migration of fibres occurs each filament is alternatively on the surface and inside the yarn.
1/11
1/13
Winding machines:
Drive can be realized:
From axis (tube) enables precise winding. Peripheral (bobbin rolls on driving drum) chaotic winding.
1/14
1/15
1/16
1/17
1/18
1/19
1/20
1/21
1/22
1/23
1/24
1/25
D. Preparation of warps
Warp many yarns. Knitting from giant creel is not suitable, usual is to wind many yarns on one beam. Necessary condition similar length of all yarns in the fabric. If the yarn consumption is individual (patterned fabric) it is necessary to use creel.
1/26
1. Section warping
Narrow warp beams are used, several of them form final warp. Advantage only one yarn rewinding.
1/27
1/28
1. Section warping
Warping machine:
1 beam; 2 pressure drum; 3 reeds; 4 electrostatic charge eliminators; 5 working table; 6 warp magazine; 7 photoelectrical sensor; 8 creel
1/29
1/30
2. Beam warping
For lower yarns number are used so called pattern beams a set of X-wound bobbins on 1 tube:
1/31
1/32
Is it at all possible?
May fabric be formed from one system of yarns with fixed all ends?
1/33
1/34
Advantage: easy fabric creation (short movements). Disadvantage: easy destruction (symmetrical 1/35 structure).
Basic elements:
Kink (loop) of yarn (open, closed). Knitted stitch or loop (F - face, R reverse side).
1/36
Groups of elements:
Course Wales. a Weft, b warp knitted fabric.
1/37
1/38
1/39
Knitted products:
Continuous fabric Yardage (metrage) flat a, tubular b.
1/40
Pieces or panels:
Not shaped c In-plane shaped d, e, Spatial-shaped f (or 3D shaped). 1 welt (fast starting c.) 2 separating course
1/41
1/42
43
44
1/45
English system:
Not providing an easy survey of structures with many courses i repetition.
1/48
1/49
1/50
WaS - Warp single faced (1 type of stitches) WaD - Warp double faced (F. and R. wales)
1/51
1/53
Examples of needles:
1/55
1/56
Introduction
Seamless knitting technology creates one entire complete garment with minimal or no cutting and sewing process. This innovative technology eliminates post labor work, which saves production and time cost. In addition, the technology offers knitwear consumers more comfort and better fit by eliminating seams. Thus, seamless technology provides benefits to manufacturers as well as end users. Seamless knitting technology ha entered the mainstream in the knitwear market.
There are no. of different methods that can be used to produce seamless products.
The seamless knits are in tubular shape, which is produced by high elongation yarns, Circular knitting machines were mostly used to make seamless clothes.
This leads to saving of production costs up to 35% compared to the cut and sew methods.
Year
1589 1863 1864 1800s
1940
1955 1960s
The manufacture of shaped knitted skirts using a flechage technique was patented in the USA.
The Hosiery Trade Journal reported on the automatic knitting of traditional berets through the shaped sections. Shima Seiki company further explored the tubular-type knitting principle to produce gloves commercially.
1960's
1995
Courtaulds established British patents on the idea of producing garments by joining tube knitting.
Shima Seiki introduced seamless entire garment knitting at ITMA.
Methods Of Production
Seamless clothing can be produce by following methods: Partially machine process (Pasting method) Fully machine process
Pasting Method
This method and system makes possible a seamless garment finish that is more comfortable than a finish having seams and other imperfections due to the need to tuck/sew edges and joints. The disclosed seamless technology employs a thin film of adhesive that is preferably ether-based polyurethane although other adhesives are acceptable. This adhesive is pre-laminated on at least one surface prior to lamination to another surface under conditions to control adhesion, stretch, breathability, and longevity of the garment.
Joining Options
Welding, bonding, and heat sealing are other options then customary sewing method.
Seamless Machines
Shima Seiki Stoll
Shima Seiki WholeGarment Stoll Knit-and-Wear Machines Machines 50 80 (126 203 cm ) 72 84 (183 213 cm) 5 - 18 gauge 5 -18 gauge
Knitting Speed
Racking Knitting System Transfer Sinker System Yarn Carriers Take-down Device Needle Selection Needle
Max 1.3m/sec
Max 3 total 3 4 systems Simultaneous transfer
Max 1.2m/sec
Max 4 total 3 4 systems Simultaneous transfer
Spring-type movable full sinker Spring-type moveable holdingsystem down sinker system Up to 16 Up to 16 Main/sub take down rollers Electric selection system Latch needles, Compound needles, Slide needles Integrated knit production system allowing planning, design, evaluation and production Main/upper take down rollers Electric selection system Latch needles
CAD system
Applications
Sleeveless Shirt Socks
Hats
Bandages
Advantages
Freedom of body movement:
Generally the seam portion of any garment is not having the same elasticity as compared to the body fabric, so the difference in elasticity will affect the free body movement. Since the seamless garment doesnt have any seam in it structure this problem has been eliminated.
There are no bulky and annoying stitches at the underarm points, shoulders and neck lines, which may cause irritation to the wearer, since the garment having seam free structure it provides the soft feel only.
comfort, fit, and ventilation we can obtain from this technology. Most of the fabric wastages occur at cutting stage, since this seamless garment excludes this process fabric consumption per garment is less, so
Involvement of sewing operation is less except few cases in the garment production system, which leads less space requirement. Reduce yarn and fabric inventory: Cutting and sewing process require more fabric as
Quick samples:
Sampling is a costly as well as time consuming process, because small portion of fabric as well
Design possibilities:
Seamless garment Technology not only to create several types of tubular formed knitting but also to build diverse design structures on the tubular knitted garments simultaneously.
Just in time production:
Technical Issues
Although
seamless garment knitting technology provides a variety of advantages for the knitting industry, it still has several technical issues. The main problem in complete garment knitting is fabric take up5. Maintaining the tension of each loop (i.e., stitch) is difficult.
Fabric
design as well as garment design on jacquard is highly difficult task. Problem to make the welt and cuff portions. Frequent changes in the knitting machine setting