Testing procedures for fabrics and trims

ASTM D 1356 on Performance Standards for Testing Fabrics

Atmospheric conditions for Testing

Relative Humidity 65% +/- 2% Temperature 21degree Centigrade +/- 1%

This is all because of Hygroscopic nature of fabric

Fabric Strength

Resistance to tensile force ( Breaking Strength) Resistance to tearing and sheering force ( tear strength) Resistance to bursting force (bursting strength)

Tensile strength strength of a material under tension and is expressed in term of force

Three major types of Tensile testing machine CRE, CRT, CRL CRE CONSTANT RATE OF EXTENSION CRT CONSTANT RATE OF TRAVERSE CRD CONSTANT RATE OF LOADING
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Seam Strength

Seam strength is the maximum resistance to rupture at the juncture formed by stitching together two or more planner material. The greater the force required to rupture a seam stronger is the seam

Seam Strength
The elements affecting seam strength are Stitch type Thread strength Stitches per inch Thread tension Seam type Seam efficiency- seam strength expressed as % of fabric breaking strength.
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Seam Slippage

Seam slippage is the partial or complete loss of the seam integrity manifested by yarn slippage parallel or adjacent to the stitch line. Seam Cracking SPI, Seam strength is of greater importance parameter for resistance to Seam cracking than thread extensibility.
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Seam strength in Woven garments

SPI The weave structure of the fabric The width of the seam allowance

Seam strength in knitted fabric

Under traverse stress seam of knitted fabric shows two types of failure. 20 SPI 80% extension Polyester thread gives 100% extension with SPI 20

Resistance to Yarn slippage

The force at which load elongation curve of a fabric with the seam is greater than load elongation curve of the fabric without a seam reported as Kg per cm is resistance to Yarn slippage.

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Reason for seam slippage

Low number of filling yarn Too shallow seam allowances Too tight fit Improper seam construction Not Enough seam construction

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Fabric stretch property

Two category of stretch based on degree of stretch

Power or action stretch 30 -50% (5 to 6% loss in recovery) Comfort stretch less than 30% stretch ( 2 to 5% loss)

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Fabric Stretch

Fabric growth Fabric Stretch Exhibited in Knitted fabric and fabric with stretch property

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Garment Shrinkage
due to laundering, dry cleaning, steaming and pressing

Garment shrinkage occurs at three stages

Fabric, yarn and fiber.

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Causes of Shrinkage

Relaxation Shrinkage Swelling Felting- Frictional Property Contraction Durable Press ( 5 -1) Wash and wear

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Needle Cutting / Yarn Severance

Needle Cutting Index % =

No: of yarn cuts /cm No: of yarns in fabric /cm *100 Factors Stiffness of yarn Wrong needle size Excessive heat generation
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Sewability of Fabric

Sewability is that characteristics of fabric that allows it to be seamed at the full limit of high speed sewing machinery without the fabric suffering mechanical degradation Can be evaluated by Needle cut / Yarn severan test Seam Efficiency %

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Bow and Skewness in woven and knitted fabric

Bow is a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted course are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvedge and form one or more arcs across the width of the fabric. Bow % = D/W *100 ( D= maximum depth of the arc and w = width of the fabric) Skewness is a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are angularly displaced from a line perpendicular to the edge or side of the fabric. Skewness% = ab or bd/bc *100 (bc is the width of the fabric)

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Soil/ Stain Release Testing

SR Finishes Eg: Zepel (Dupont), Scotchguard ( Minnesta Minninbg and Manufacturing AATCC Test Method 130 -2000 Rating 5 -1

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Fabric Thickness

Measured by Thickness Gauge

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Pilling Little Fiber balls clinging to the fabric face ( 5 -1) Martindale Tester

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Snagging Defects caused by Pulling or plucking of yarns from the fabric surface

Bean Bag Snag Tester comprises of sample fabric being constructed into a bean bag and placed in a rotating chamber with inward pointng needles that catches the tumbling fabric bag.

Mace Tester a tube of sample fabric is constructed and placed over a cylinder on the mace tester. A mace ball bounces randomly against the fabric as the tube rotates.

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Abrasion Resistance Wearing away any part of the

material by rubbing against another surface

Inflated Diaphragm Method light to medium weight fabric Sample is abraded by rubbing it multidirectionally against a abradant of specified charecterics supported by inflated rubber diaphragm
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Abrasion Resistance Wearing away any part of the

material by rubbing against another surface

Flexing and Abrasion Method- Corduroy, Velour and Pile fabric Unidirection rubbing over a metal bar specified charecterics, pressure and tension. Oscillatory Cylinder Method any Fabric Sample subjected to unidirectional rubbing Rotary Paltform Method- heavy fabrics Test specimen mounted on a platform rotating on a vertical axis. Two wheels opposite direction Edge and Fold Abrasion method tiny glass rod

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Abrasion Resistance Wearing away any part of the

material by rubbing against another surface

Evaluation of Resistance may be based on Number of Rubs or revolution required to wear a hole The specimen evaluated on

Overall appearance, Loss in color, signs of damage Loss in Breaking Strength Loss in Weight Decrease in Thickness Change in the air permeability

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Colorfastness

It is the property of dye or print that enables it to retain its depth and shade throughout the wear life of a product. Gray scale for color change Gray Scale for staining Chromatic Transference scale

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Gray Scale indicates the amount of fading or color

alteration with environmental exposure or washing

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Color Matching Cabinet

Light sources: D65, TL84, CWF, F, UV, U30

Artificial Daylight [D-65] Cool White Light [CWF] Tungsten Filament Light [Domestic Light Matching] Ultra Violet Black Light [Whites & Fluorescent Dyes] TL-84 Light -Triphosphor fluorescent Light [Point of Sale

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Color Fastness Test

Color Fastness to Washing(Launderometer) Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning (Launderometer, perchloroetylene) Color Fastness to Light (Fadometer) Color Fastness to crocking (Crockmeter) Color Fastness to Perspiration (acid based sol) Color Fastness abrasion (Frosting) Emery Method, Screen wire method Color Fastness to Heat (*dry, damp, wet) disperse dyes Color Fastness to Burnt Gas Fumes Color Fastness to Ozone

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1-Enclosed Carbon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light 2-Enclosed Carbon-Arc Lamp, Alternate Light and Dark 3-Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light, Black Panel Option 4-Xenon-Arc Lamp, Alternate Light and Dark 5-Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light, Black Standard Option

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Testing for Fusible Interlining

Measure the Shrinkage in both unfused and fused fabrics Measure the bond strength between fabric and the interlining Evaluate the handle of the fabric and the interlining Evaluate the surface of the fabric and interlining after fusing Evaluate the performance of the fabric after steaming
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Bond Strength
Take a sample of 2inch by 8 inch, fuse. Leave one end unfused to pull apart Normal one and one and half pound Tested after fusing, washing and dry cleaning Hand test Adhesive on the fabric, tearing of base ob base fabric
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Shrinkage

Cut two squares of fabric and one fusible interlining Three sets of marks- lengthwise and width wise in one fabric and fusing Send the marked fabric and the fabric with fusing Then see the shrinkage percentage

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Steam Surface and strikeback evaluation

Fabric fused and allowed to cool ( 24 hours) Press for 15 seconds Strike back same fused sample folded at half, and pressed for 15 secs and vacuumed fro 10 sec. the layer should not stick together

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Puller Attachment test

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Bottom Stop holding test

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Top Stop holding Test

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Other Test

Durability of Finish of Zippers to Laundering Colorfastness of Zippers to Dry cleaning Color Fastness to light Color Fastness to Crocking

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Elastic Waistband Testing

Two properties to Test

Fit for the labeled size Resistance to degradation due to Luandering

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Fit for the Labeled size

Stretch the waistband about 5cms more than the actual waist mmts. Than bring it back to the waistband mmt and hold it for sometime and than measure the force. Repeat the same with the after the garments are subjected to wear testing
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Resistance degradation

Three specimens mark them at 25 cms interval Expose the sample to air oven at 145 degree centigrade for 24 hours Stretch the specimen 50% for 24 hours. Allow them to relax and then measure for shrinkage or growth %
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Resistance degradation

Three specimen stretch them 50% - measure the force. Launder the specimen as per the wash care instruction. Then stretch 50% - measure force acceptable if loss of force is 10% of the original force.
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Yarn Strength and Yarn number

Yarn Number

Denier weight of 9000mtrs of yarn in grams Tex weight of 1000m of yarn in grams. Cotton count no: of 840 yds length of yarn in 1 lb Worsted count no: of 560 yds length in 1 lbs Run no: of 1600 yd length of yarn in 1 lb ( spun yarn) Uster Tester II and Denier monitor
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Buttons

A , b1 -b3 Snap Fasteners Tensile machine

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